DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF LEMON GRASS (CYMBOPOGON CITRATUS)

AS NATURAL DYESTUFF APPLIED TO TEXTILE MATERIAL

NACHOR, DONNA A.
AGOOT, MARIELLE
CASILANG, JOANNA
DEFUNTUROM, APRILLE JAINE
MACATO, MARY JOY
SALTIVAN, KATHRINE

DON MARIANO MARCOS MEMORIAL STATE UNIVERSITY

MID LA UNION CAMPOS
COLLEGE OF TECHNOLOGY
CITY OF SAN FERNANDO
SAN FERNANDO CITY LA UNION

BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN TEXTILE AND FASHION TECHNOLOGY

DATE
APPROVAL SHEET

This thesis, “DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF LEMON GRASS

(Cymbopogon Citratus) AS NATURAL DYESTUFF APPLIED TO TEXTILE MATERIAL”

prepared and submitted by Donna A. Nachor, Marielle Agoot, Mary Joy Dacumus,

Aprille Jaine Difunturom, in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree

Bachelor of Science in textile and Fashion Technology was examined and passed on

may 2022 by the thesis committee (OREC) composed of:

FLORENTINA A. CORPUZ, Ph.d. ELIZABETH B. TUMBAGA, Ph.D.

Adviser Member

JOYCE N. NILLOSGUIN, BSTFT VICTORIO PALABAY, Ph.D.

Member Member

GLENDA JOY B. NAYAL, BSTFT KRISTINE MAE DUMO, BSTFT

Member Member

FELY CAMARAO, BSTFT ROSSELLA

Member Member

Accepted and approved as partial fulfilment of the requirements for the

degree, Bachelor of Science in Textile and Fashion Technology.

FLORENTINA A. CORPUZ, Ph.D. VICTORIO PALABAY, Ph.D.

Chairperson, Textile and Fashion technology Dean, College of Technology
Date Signed:_______________ Date Signed:_______________
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This study becomes a reality with the support, the inspiration, and assistance

of several people to whom the researchers hereby affirm with variable joy and

profound sense of gratitude.

First and foremost, praises and thanks to our almighty God, for the wisdom He

bestowed upon us, and also the strength, peace of mind, good health and blessing

throughout our research work to successfully complete it.

We are highly indebted to our chancellor of the Mid La Union Campus, Dr.

Eduardo C. Corpuz, for his permission to the researchers to conduct testing of their

study;

Much appreciation is given also to our College Dean, Dr. Victorio C. Palabay, for

his scholarly inputs and assistance towards the improvement of the manuscript.

Also we would like to express our special gratitude and thanks to the

chairperson of BSTFT and also the adviser of this study, Dr. Florentina A. Corpuz, for

her high intellectual assistance, valuable comments, suggestions, and

recommendations that benefited in the completion and success of this study;

Dr. Elizabeth B. Tumbaga, expert evaluator, for her brilliant ideas and

constructive critism to correct and improve the research;

Prof. Glenda Joy Nayal, Prof. Joyce Nillosguin, Prof. Fely Camarao, Prof. Kristine mae

Dumo and Prof. Rosella, for their assistance in providing, ideas, suggestions, and

recommendations;
 To our statistician, Prof. Blendie V. Quiban, Jr. for helping us in the statistical

treatment of this study;

And to our dear respondents for allowing us to float our survey questionnaires

for the bounless patience for helping us to finish our study

And to our parents, friends, classamates, and relatives, for their immeasurable

moral, intellectual, financial support, and understanding that serve as inspiration to

complete this research. We could not have done this successfully without your

guidance and support;

For those not mentioned here, who directly have lent their hand in this

venture, thank you for your support and help.

 DEDICATION

We dedicate this study to our ever dearest Alma Matter, Don Mariano Marcos

Memorial State University Mid La union Campus, for the opportunities and challenges

opened to all of us. Truly, you have molded us into more confident and objective

individuals.

DAN
MA
MD
AJD
KS
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE

TITLE………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

APPROVAL SHEET……………………………………………………………………………………………………

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS……………………………………………………………………………………………..

DEDICATION……………………………………………………………………………………………………………

TABLE OF CONTENT……………………………………………………………………………………………………

LIST OF TABLES…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LIST OF FIGURE………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

LIST OF PLATES………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

ABSTRUCT…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

CHAPTER

1. INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………………………………………….
SITUATION ANALYSIS………………………………………………………………………….
STATEMENTS OF OBJECTIVES………………………………………………………………….
TIME AND PLACE OF THE STUDY………………………………………………………..
DEFINATION OF TERMS…………………………………………………………………………..
2. METHODOLOGY…………………………………………………………………………………………………
RESEARCH DESIGN………………………………………………………………………………………
MATERIALS AND PROCEDURES…………………………………………………………………….
DATA GATHERED………………………………………………………………………………………
DATA ANALYIS…………………………………………………………………………………………….
3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION………………………………………………………………………………
COLOR VALUE…………………………………………………………………………………………..
EVALUATION DYESTUFF…………………………………………………………………………..
4. SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATION……………………………………...
FINDINGS…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
CONCLUSIONS………………………………………………………………………………………..
RECOMMENDATIONS……………………………………………………………………………

LITERATURE CITED…………………………………………………………………………………………………
APPENDICES…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

A. PLATES…………………………………………………………………………………………………
B. EVALUATION FORMS………………………………………………………………………………
C. COMMUNICATION LETTER…………………………………………………………………

CURRICULUM VITAE………………………………………………………………………………………………
 LIST OF TABLES

TABLE NO. PAGE

1. COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING…………………………………………………………………………..

2. COLOR FASTNESS TO SUNLIGHT…………………………………………………………………………….

3. SIGNIFICANT DIRFFERENCE OF THE BOILING

POINT IN THE COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING……………………………………………

4. SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE OF BOILING POINT

IN THE COLORFASTNESS TO SUNLIGHT…………………………………………………….

 LIST OF PLATES

Plates Page
 LIST OF FIGURE

FIGURE PAGE

1. FLOR PROCESS IN THE DEVELOPMENT

OF LEMON GRASS AS A DYESTUFF……………………………………………………….

 ABSTRACT

The researchers will used the developmental-descriptive-evaluative research design in

this study. The statistical tool used was the weighted mean. For the colorfastness

properties, a questionnaire was used. Also, mobile application (color picker) was used

to determine the color value. Color value of dyed poplin and silk fabric yielded dark

to light in a group of brass to old gold color. The colorfastness to washing and sunlight

resulted no change in color or very good performance on the different levels of time

and mordant used.

Lemon grass had a great performance for dyeing. There is a significant

difference between the 30 mins/60 mins and 60 mins /30 mins colorfastness to

sunlight using copper sulphate as mordant to poplin fabric. There is no significant

difference between 30/ 60 minutes and 60/ 30 minutes with alum and copper

sulphate mordant.
 Chapter 1

INTRODUCTION

Situation Analysis

One crucial element of dye is color. Intensity and concentration of color yields

high importance in crafting dyestuff. Color is one of the elements of nature that made

the human living move aesthetic and lively. Humans are visual beings and their eyes

always seek all the possible visual stimuli from our surrounding. In the study of

Salonki, Kagathara & Dalal (2020), a variety of materials such as textiles, leather, and

papers that remains unaffected by heat, light, washing, or any other exposure. The

concept of dyes, on the other hand, is vastly different from that of pigments. In the

word, pigments are materials that are diffused in a liquid to make a paint or ink.

Organic compounds are pound in dyes, while in organic compounds are found in

pigments. Natural dyes offer advantage of having a low environmental impact, as well

as being renewable, sustainable and safe.

According to the study of Becerir (2017) in color concept in textile,

Color is extremely significant in human life since everyone has their own personal colo

r preferences in every aspect of daily life. 

Uniform color is significant in textiles, especially in plain clothing, because these gar

ments are made up of many separate sections that were cut in preparation and then s

ewn together.
 Color is an important aspect of human world .people like to wear cloths of all

kinds of color and hues, eat food decorated with colors and even our medicines are

colorful. No wander then, that a lot of researchers have gone into production

( Collins,2018)

According to Delong (Brannon, 2021). Color is

frequently a primary reason why a person is drawn to and purchases a particular item 

of clothing. Color is used in the industry to differentiate and sell materials, goods,

and product lines, as well as to increase.

A vast array of colorants obtained from natural sources such as plants,

insects/animals and microbes have been scrutinized in recent past for their use in

different kinds of applications. Research into new natural dyes sources along with

eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and

application have greatly aided in widening the scope of natural dyes in various

traditional and advanced application disciplines. This review encompasses a

summary of research performed in last 15 years (1998–2013) in different arenas of

applications of natural dyes, with specific reference to technological development

in natural textile dyeing and use of natural dyes in functional finishing of textiles,

food coloration and dye-sensitized solar cells. In addition, some newly discovered

applications of natural dyes have also been discussed. (Mohammad Shahid, Faqeer

Mohammad, 2017).

Dyers were mostly reliant on natural dyes before the fifteenth century.

Dyestuffs that could be grown in Europe or were native to the continent, and
related dyestuffs temperate climate zones only so-called natural dyestuffs were

available between 1550 and 1850. (Jill Goodwin 2020).

Dyestuff for fabric produces attraction and desirability. Dyestuffs are organic

and inorganic substances which consist of chromophore groups, can change the

physical and chemical properties of any substance, can absorb light and reflect lights

to show color. They are unsaturated complex compound. For most of history,

dyestuffs were derived only from natural materials like plants, minerals and

invertebrates, offering people a narrow range of colors from which to choose

(Falconer, 2018). Hence, developing a formula of natural dyestuff for cotton and silk

fabric is highly beneficial not only for the environment but to the fabric to be treaded

and to the usage of human.

Dye plays an important role in furnishing high quality outputs of textiles. It

gives a flavourful enhancement in making desirable and marketable textile products.

Dyes, particularly natural dyes, have held untold importance in our lives for thousands

of years, providing not only aesthetic satisfaction but utilitarian uses as well. The

oldest and most widely used dye is indigo, which has been used in India for the last

four thousand years. Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, animals,

or minerals. Furthermore, biological sources such as vegetables and fungi provide the

majority of natural dye production. Although natural dyes were popular for humans, it

quickly fell out of favor due to the ease of use and variability of synthetic dyes.

However, in this article, we will be discussing the importance of natural dyes and why

they are making a comeback in today’s society (Campbell, 2019).

 Dyes are one of the most important uses of the plants. Recently, interest in the

use of natural dyes has been growing rapidly due to the result of stringent

environmental standards imposed by many countries in response to toxic and allergic

reactions associated with synthetic dyes. As a result with a distinct lowering in

synthetic dyestuff costs, the natural dyes were virtually unused at the beginning of

twentieth century (Kumaresan et. al., 2017). Nowadays in most of the countries,

natural dyeing is practiced only as a handcraft and synthetic dyes are being used

in all commercial dyeing processes. However with the worldwide concern over the use

of eco-friendly and biodegradable materials, the use of natural dyes has once again

gained interest (Agarwal A, Goel A & Gupta K C, 2019).

Dyeing can be carried out in an alkaline bath, acidic bath or in a neutral bath.

There are various reports available on different methods of mordanting on

different fibers such as cellulosic, protenic and synthetic for dyeing with

different natural dyes. Various kinds of shades like black to brown, green to yellow to

orange, etc can be obtained by application of different mordants. Dyeing of cotton

and silk with henna, indigo, marigold etc. is reported. (Gulrajani et al, 2018).

There is a growing interest in the revival of natural dyes in textile colouration

(Mehanta z. & Osman et al, 2016 & 2017. In contrast, natural dyes are environmental

friendly, exhibit better biodegradability and generally have a higher compatibility

with the environment than synthetic dyes. (Ahlstrom et al, 2019). The process is

economically viable as the raw materials are available at low cost and so cost of

production is also very low. Similar findings were reported in Marigold, China rose and

Bixa flower (Ibrahim et al, 2017).

 Application of natural dyes in today’s scenario makes use of modern science

and technology not only to revive the traditional technique but also to improve its

rate of production, cost effectively and consistency in shades. It therefore, requires

some special measures to ensure even‐ness in dyeing. Many factors have to be

accounted for when one works with natural dyes (Campbell, 2019).

Natural dyes have been used to color fabrics for hundreds of years. Until the

latter half of the nineteenth century, all colors were manufactured from various parts

of plants and animals. Roots, stems, barks, leaves, hard wood, berries, fruits, flowers

of numerous dye plants and trees, as well as from some insects and shellfish, have

been used by people all over the world for thousands of years. Most natural dyes are

non-substantial, which means they don't have much color strength on their own and

need the help of a mordant to permeate the yarn/fibre. Natural dyes' bio-

degradability and eco-compatibility have piqued the interest of both consumers and

producers in recent years. Other benefits include the expected non-toxicity/lower

toxicity, anti-allergen. And medicinal value, as well as the antimicrobial and UV

protective properties of some natural dyes (Samanta et al., 2018).

Natural dyes/colorants derived from flora and fauna are believed to be

safe because of its nontoxic, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable in nature

(Cristea & Vilarem, 2016). Many tribes of Arunachal Pradesh have been using this

plant species traditionally in combination with other plants for extraction and

preparation of dyes utilizing indigenous processes (Mahanta & Tiwari, 2015). Natural

dyes are now a days in demand not only in textile industry but in cosmetics, leather,

food and pharmaceuticals. The rich biodiversity of our country has provided us plenty
of raw materials, yet sustainable linkage must be developed between cultivation,

collection and their use (Gokhale et al, 2017).

The majority of natural dyes are less substantial, which means they don't

have as much color intensity as synthetic dyes. They have a limited coloring

potential on their own and need the help of mordant to achieve their desired color.

(Lokhande et al 2018).

Environmental aspects are becoming important in the choosing of consumer

goods, particularly textiles, all over the world. The entire world In terms of growth

and export performance of natural dyes, India's textile industries have demonstrated

extraordinary dynamism (2017, Cautisicos)

Natural Dyes Have a Lot of Benefits While typical textile dyeing procedures are

to blame for a large portion of the problem, Due to the high number of leftovers in

textile finishing firms' wastewater, natural dyeing has become more popular in recent

years. Not only may water be conserved and pollution avoided in this method, but a

wider range of colors can be achieved, giving textile designers new options. Natural

dyes, on the other hand, are typically less intense and more susceptible to bleaching

as a result of mechanical impact, washing, or UV irradiation. We present an overview

of various natural dye combinations used for dyeing various textile materials, both

with and without preparation of the textile fabric. The resulting fabrics come in a

wide spectrum of colors, which are largely determined by the textile material and, in

certain cases, by the design. In some circumstances, there is also a pre-treatment.

While washing and UV treatment show a relatively small influence, Martindale

abrasion tests changed some of the colors significantly. (Anastasia Fröse. et. al,

2019).

Experimental evidence for allergic and toxic effects of some synthetic dyes is

available. Natural dyes are mostly non-toxic, non-allergic. Some of the natural colours

have added value for its medicinal effects on skin and are more than skin friendly.

Natural dyestuff can produce a wide range of colours by mix and match system. A

small variation in the dyeing technique or the use of different mordants with the

same dye (polygenetic type natural dye) can shift colours to a wide range or create

totally new colours, which are not easily obtainable with synthetic dyestuffs. Unlike

non-renewable basic raw materials for synthetic dyes, the natural dyes are usually

renewable, being agro-renewable/vegetable based and at the same time

biodegradable. Many plants thrive on wastelands. Thus, wasteland utilization is an

added merit of the natural dyes. In some cases the waste in the process becomes an

ideal fertilizer for use in agricultural fields. This is a labour intensive industry,

thereby providing job opportunities for all those engaged in cultivation, extraction

and application of these dyes on textile. Natural dyes generate sustainable

employment and income for the weaker section of population in rural and sub-urban

areas both for dyeing as well as for non-food crop farming to produce plants for the

natural dyes. Application of natural dyes has potential to earn carbon credit by

reducing consumption of fossil fuel (petroleum) based synthetic dyes. The shades

produced by natural dyes are usually soft, lustrous and soothing to the human eye.

Natural dyes are suitable for protecting and preserving the ancient and traditional

dyeing technology and for studying the ancient dyeing methods, colored museum
textiles and other textiles recovered by archaeology for conservation and restoration

of heritage of old textiles.

Natural and synthetic dyes are the two primary types of dyes used in texile

dyeing. Animals, plant roots, stems, flowers, leaves, fruits and natural-colored ores

are the most common sources of natural dyes, also known as natural pigments.

Despite the fact that dyes and pigments have distinct properties, dyes are substantive

to the textile substrate, but pigments are not. In contrast to pigments, which are

inorganic, dyes are predominantly organic in addition. Furthermore, pigments require

the use of a binder for application, but dyes do not (Shenai, 2020).

Natural dyes are most often processed in this way. The dyestuff is harvested or

collected, soaked in water for several hours, and heated to a low simmer for

approximately an hour or more to extract the dye. The extract is poured into another

pot and water is added to achieve the desired dye bath volume. Wet, pre-mordant

textile is added to the dye bath, which is heated to a low simmer for approximately

an hour. After the dye bath is cool, the textile is removed. Some dyers rinse before

letting the textile dry. Other dyers prefer to dry the textile for several days before

rinsing.

Natural dyes are obtained from natural sources. Most are of plant origin and

extracted from roots, wood, bark, berries, lichens, leaves, flowers, nuts, and seeds.

Others come from insects, shellfish, and mineral compounds. Natural dyes were the

only source of color for textiles, leather, basketry, and other materials until synthetic

dyes were developed in the latter half of the nineteenth century. Of the thousands of

natural color substances, very few became significant commercially. Dyestuff refers
to the plant or other material from which the dye is extracted. Complete palettes are

achieved by dyeing in one bath and sequential dyeing in two or more baths.

Natural dyes are most often processed in this way. The dyestuff is harvested or

collected, soaked in water for several hours, and heated to a low simmer for

approximately an hour or more to extract the dye. The extract is poured into another

pot and water is added to achieve the desired dye bath volume. Wet, pre-mordant

textile is added to the dye bath, which is heated to a low simmer for approximately

an hour. After the dye bath is cool, the textile is removed. Some dyers rinse before

letting the textile dry. Other dyers prefer to dry the textile for several days before

rinsing. Contact dyeing is an alternate method in which the dyestuff, a tiny volume of

water or other liquid, sodium chloride or mordant, and found materials like rusty nails

or copper wire are placed in and around the textile that is sealed in a plastic bag or

glass jar for several days, weeks, or months. Contact dyed textiles have unusual, one-

ofa-kind patterns. (Sara J. Kadolph,2021)

Natural dyes are having wide application in the colouration of most of the

natural fibres, e.g. cotton, linen, wool and silk fibre, and to some extant for nylon

and polyester synthetic fibre. However, the major issues for natural dyed textiles are

reproducibility of shade, non-availability of well-defined standard procedure for

application and poor lasting performance of shade under water and light exposure. To

achieve good colour fastness to washing and light are also a challenge to the dyer.

Several researchers had proposed different dyeing methods and process parameters,

but still this information are inadequate, so this calls for the need of research to
develop some standard dye extraction technique and standardisation of whole process

of natural dyeing on textiles. (Virenda, Kumar, Gupta, 2021) According to Buchanan

Plant-based dyes are a fantastic opportunity to learn about the biology and chemistry

at work in the plants around us.

Artisans and crafters now employ natural colours. Natural dyes are prized for

the high quality of color they may produce. Plant-based dyes contain a variety of

pigments and are thus not as "pure" as chemical dyes. These impurities produce a

unique and vibrant hue that can never be reproduced. For many people, the process

of extracting colors from natural sources brings them closer to their work and offers

them influence over each step of the creation. (Buchanan & Rita 2021).

Synthetic dyes' traditional applications have created a severe hazard to the

worldwide ecosystem. Their presence in textile effluents has significantly damaged

the environment in recent decades. Because of their toxicity and non-

biodegradability, they presented a major threat to soil fertility, crop production, and

human health. The focus has now shifted to bio-dyes or natural dyes. Plants, animals,

and bacteria do create dyes that are cost-effective, nontoxic, and environmentally

benign (Gulzar, Farooq, and Hameed, 2019).

According to katutubong kulay 2007, colorfastness pertains sought after dyes.

Colorfastness pertains to the degree of permanence by which dyes attach fibers.

Substantive dyes possess a remarkable adherence that neither fades nor wash out.

Other dyes however, require a mordant a metallic agent that creates a chemical

affinity permanently fixes color onto the material. The most common mordant are

alum, iron and copper sulfhate.

 Colorfastness is a piece of dyed clothing's fade-resistance. Pieces that have a

strong binding force between dye and the fibers of the clothing have a high

colorfastness and will take a long time (or a lot of washed) before they begin to fade.

(Aguirre S 2020)

Light fastness, or color fastness to light, is the resistance of printed or

pigmented materials to fading or color change due to exposure to sunlight or an

artificial light source.

The light fastness of print is predominantly governed by the pigment type used.

Print exposed to high levels of sunlight such as on posters and compost sacks require a

high degree of lightfastness. Stone D. 2020

Color fastness to wash is the resistance of a material to change in any of its

color characteristics as result of washing with household detergent. Colorfastness to

washing is very important for Lab-dip in dyeing factory. It is one of the most

important and mostly used colorfastness test. Mazharul Islam Kiron 2020 

Mordant dye, colorant that can be bound to a material for which it otherwise

has little or no affinity by the addition of a mordant, a chemical that combines with

the dye and the fibre. As the principal modern mordants are dichromates

and chromium complexes, mordant dye usually means chrome dye (Khin S 2020)

The term "mordant" is derived from the French word "mord," and mordants are 

metallic salts with affinity for both fiber and dyestuffs, which improves color fastness. 

Even some fugitive dyes have been successfully used with the aid of mordants. Dyes ar

e classified as "mordant" or "adjective" dyes or "indirect" dyes.

Except for a few rare exceptions, most natural dyes are mordant dyes.
Indigo is one of the few direct dyes and vat dyes available. No mordants are required 

for the latter dye.

Dyeing of cotton requires a lot of mordanting and it

is more complicated than silk and wool dyeing. 

Cotton is not porous and will not keep the dye without a more involved mordanting pr

ocedure; the fiber must cleaned first.

Preparation of alum mordant – to make alum mordant, first mix alum powder and

cream of tartar with a small amount of boiling water, then add the rest of the water.

Tin mordant - cream of tartar or oxalic acid dissolved in a little amount of boiling wat

er. More hot water is added once it is completely dissolved. The stannous chloride is g

radually added and thoroughly mixed until it dissolves.

• Copper mordant - is made by dissolving copper sulphate in lukewarm water and then

adding the remaining amount of water.

• Chrome mordant - It is best to mordant with potassium dichromate right before

dying. Making up the solution with the remaining water after dissolving the potassium

dichromate in a small amount of warm water.

Iron mordant - is made by dissolving ferrous sulphate in a little warm water and then

adding cream of tartar to it, which should be thoroughly mixed.

Cymbopogon citratus or simply known as lemon grass is an abundant and

common herbal plant in Filipino backyards and garden. Lemongrass belongs to the

Poaceae family which is well known as a source of cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin

(Kamaruddin, Jumaidin, Selamat & Ilyas, 2021).

 In Filipino language, lemon grass is popularly known as “tanglad.” It grows

abundantly in the Philippines and commercially cultivated. It has distinct features

with long, slender blade like- leaves (Ki,2020). There are many varieties of lemon

grass although the most common one found in the Philippines is one of the

cymbopogon family. As of its abundance, lemon grass is widely used in an array of

culinary, medicinal and dye uses. It also packed with vitamins, minerals and nutrients

that could benefit our bodies healthy (Ki, 2020).

In the Philippines, this plant is primarily used in cooking and medicinal

purposes. Without realizing the potential of Cymbopogon citratus as dyestuff in the

fashion industry, it is presumed that lemon grass extracts can be utilized as a source

of superior, safe and natural dye for cotton and silk types of fabric. In the study of

Suksawat (2021), natural dye made from lemongrass leaves was considered safe,

resistant to repeated washing, resistant to sunlight and iron, as well as

environmentally friendly the cotton threads had been dyed to weave and develop into

fabric pattern, namely prachinburi pattern.

Developing a natural dyestuff from lemon grass leads into another level of

aesthetic and safety in the fashion industry thus, applying naturally crafted dye from

plants contribute to a safer and more sustainable fashion and textile production. It is

a promising method to produce innocuous and nontoxic dye from lemon grass extracts

in dyeing fabrics. According to Suksawat (2021), it could be said that either food dye

and clothing dye were synthesized chemically, many of which were unsafe to the

human health. The naturally made dye was considered to be safe to human and

environment and yet beautiful for dyeing clothes. This naturally made material could
commonly be found in community without the need of importing the dye from abroad.

Moreover, the natural dyeing process could be learned by oneself thus showing the

local wisdom of the group.

Cultivation and production of lemon grass in the locality is appropriate and

suitable. Considering the terrain and humidity, lemon grass can grow and prosper.

Lemon grass is a tall, perennial and aromatic grass. The leaves of lemon grass are

prolific, soft, long chocolate and violet color. The average economic life of lemon

grass is five years. Lemon grass is found across the globe (Sourabh & Ayurveda, 2017).

Hence, reproduction and quantity of supply is not a limiting factor with respect to its

economic life and productivity.

The Cymbopogon citratus grows well in sunny warm, moist tropical

conditions. Like in Kerala, the general effects on plants are small over 30 °C, but

the oil content is reduced seriously. Lemon grass is grown in a variety of soils.

Lemongrass blooms in a broad range of Sanskrit, from wealthy loam to bad lateritis.

Calcareous and water logged ranges between 300-350 t/annum. Citratus is a

tropical perennial plant which yields the Cochin oil of commerce. Lemon grasses

which grow in sandy soils have greater leaf oil yield and also citral content. When

lemongrass grows in highly saline soils it gives greater oil yield (Wifek, Saeed,

Rehman & Nisar, 2017).

Discovering a positive use of Lemongrass as a natural dyestuff may lead to the

following results:

Increased public understanding of the Lemongrass as natural dyestuff;

Higher appreciation to the importance of lemongrass  by the community;

Adoption of lemongrass as a safe, readily available, and natural way as dyestuff to

textile industry.

In this research, the result of the study will benefit the lemon grass farmers,

the natural dye industry of which eventually can build spirit of cooperation with

farmers in developing and increasing land and land-produced productivity. The result

of this study will help encourage farmers to continue cultivating lemon grass.

Moreover, farmers can acquire scientific knowledge on how they can efficiently and

productively utilize farm-produced. This will also benefit the society to motivate

them in preserving and achieving a sustainable environment, and a greener textile

industry. Moreover, for future researchers, this will be a big help for it serve as their

guide for their future research subject in field of developing natural dye stuff.

Specifically, the researchers focused their study on the lemon grass as dyes stuff for

dying textile material.

The Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI) would be benefited by the

result of this study on looking and establish a new potential natural dyes with good

colorfastness.

For College of Technology especially the future researchers of Department of

Textile and Fashion Technology of Don Mariano Memorial State University, is a big

help as will serve as their guide for their research in the field of developing a natural

dyestuff.

Specifically, this study focused on the Development and Evaluation of

Lemongrass as natural dyestuff for textile dyeing materials.

Statement of Objectives

This study aimed to develop and evaluate the dyestuff from lemon grass

(Cymbopogon citratus) applied to silk and cotton fabric.

Specifically, the study sought to achieve the following:

1. To determine the color value of the dyestuff from the lemon grass

(Cymbopogon citratus) dyestuff;

2. To evaluate the colorfastness properties of the dyed to silk and cotton fabric

in terms of:

2.1 Colorfastness to washing; and

2.2 Colorfastness to sunlight.

3. To determine the significant difference in colorfastness to washing and

colorfastness to sunlight in terms of:

3.1 Dyeing time (30 minutes 60 minutes application and 60 minutes and 30

minutes dye application); and

3.2 mordant to use (alum and copper sulfate).

Time and place of the study

This study will focus on the development and evaluation of lemon grass

(Cymbopogon citratus) as dyestuff on silk and cotton fabric. The lemon grass will be

gathered at Bilagan, Santol, La Union. The extraction, processing and application of

lemon grass dyestuff will be conducted at the textile and fashion technology

laboratory room, while the color fastness to sunlight will be conducted to Bilagan,

Puguil, Santol, La Union. Meanwhile, the colorfastness to washing will be conducted

at the room Textile and Fashion Technology, College Of Technology, Don Mariano

Marcos Memorial State University Mid La Union Campos, City of San Fernando, La

Union. And the evaluation of color fastness to sunlight is conducted at Bilagan, Puguil,

Santol La Union during the school year 2021- 2022 at first semester.

Definition of Terms

For clearer understanding and interpretation of variables and concept to be

used in the study, the terms used in this study are operationally defined as follows:

Alum refers to the chemical used to enhance color intensity in dyeing

cotton and silk fabric using lemon grass extract.

Copper refers to the chemical used to enhance color intensity in dyeing

cotton and silk fabric using lemon grass extract.

Cotton is the type of fabric to be used as sample fabric in developing

lemon grass as dyestuff.

Colorfastness to the permanence of color in fabrics. This will be tested

to determine the level of acceptability of lemon grass leaves dyestuff in the

silk and cotton fabric.

Color fastness to sunlight is the resistance of the dyed silk and cotton

fabric to change in color characteristic after exposure to sunlight.

 Color fastness to washing is the resistance of the dyed silk and cotton

fabric to change in color after washing.

Degumming refers to the process of removing impurities on fabric before

proceeding to dyeing process.

Development refers to the process of developing dyestuff extracted

from lemon grass to be used in dyeing cotton and silk fabrics.

Dye refers to the natural color extracted from lemon grass after the

process of boiling.

Dyeing is the actual application of lemon grass extract as dyestuff of

cotton or silk fabric.

Dyestuff refers to the lemon grass extract concentrated with alum and

copper.

Evaluation is the process of visual testing of color intensity on dyed

cotton and silk fabric after color fastness to sunlight and washing.

Extraction is the process of having scheduled time duration of boiling in

extracting dye from the lemon grass.

Lemon grass (Sn) refers to the plant that serves as primary source of dye

in this study.

Lesson grass extract refers to the boiled lemon grass that will serve as

dyeing material in this study.

 Silk is the type of fabric to be used as sample fabric in lemon grass

dyestuff.
 Chapter 2

Research Design

The researchers will use the developmental-descriptive-evaluative research

design in this study. Developmental research is defined as the systematic study of

creating, developing, and evaluating, processes, and products that must meet the

criteria of internal consistency and effectiveness. Developmental research designs are

techniques used particularly in lifespan development research. When we are trying to

describe development and change, the research designs become especially important

because we are interested in what changes and what stays the same with age. It is

also the strategy or blueprint for deciding how to collect and analyze information,

and its purpose is to assess changes over an extended period of time (Lumen, n.d.).

This design was used since the researchers developed a dyestuff from lemon grass.

On the other hand, descriptive research design aims to accurately and

systematically describe a population, situation or phenomenon. The researcher does

not control or manipulate any of the variables, but only observes and measures those

(McCombes, 2019). It is appropriate in observing the color value of the lemon grass

dyestuff applied in the textile material, the difference of the dye fabric in terms of

boiling time and mordant used specified as 30 and 60 minutes boiling time, and alum

and copper sulphate used. This study involves the extraction of the lemon grass

dyestuff, describing the color value and evaluation of the level of acceptability of

dyed textile material in terms of color fastness to sunlight and washing. The

researchers will used evaluative research design, in which the goal is to determine
whether a process has yielded the desired result. One of the objectives needs to

evaluate is the colorfastness of the dye textile material in terms of colorfastness to

washing and colorfastness to sunlight. In this way, the researcher will prove the

performance of the lemon grass dye stuff.

In addition, the color value of the dyed poplin and silk fabric with lemon grass

dye stuff and alum and copper sulfate as mordant and it will be used to determine

Mobile application (Color Analysis Pro)

Materials and Procedures

Table 1. Supplies and Materials

Quantit Unit Description Unit Cost Total Cost

y

1 roll Aluminum foil 35 35

4 grams Copper Sulfate 3 12

1 yard Silk cloth 1,250 139

1 Bar Perla Soap 17 2

7 liter Distilled Water 15 15

Textile material (Royal

1 Yards Poplin) 40 4.4

10 gram (Alum) 3 30

Total Php.
 Table 1 represents the supplies and materials that will be utilized in the study.

The supplies and materials in this study are the following: Two (4) grams copper

sulfate worth twelve pesos (P12.00) and one (10) alum worth thirty pesos (P30.00)

which were used as mordant. Nine (9) kilogram lemon grass as the main source of

dyes. One (1) yards of royal poplin worth forty pesos (P40.00). Poplin fabric will be

used as sample to be dyed with the extracted dye from lemon grass. One yard silk

fabric worth one hundred thirty nine pesos (P139 .00) will be used as sample to be

dyed with the extracted dye from lemon grass. Seven (7) liter of distilled Water will

be used for extracting lemon grass dye amounting to fifteen pesos (15) Perla soap will

also be used for washing to determine the dye affinity of color amounting to two

pesos (P2.00). Lastly, aluminium foil and long folder will be used in testing the

colourfastness to sunlight of the dyed poplin fabric and silk fabric which cost seventy

pesos (P35.00). The Other supplies and materials will be purchased from the local

market.

Tools and Equipment

The tools and equipment to be used in the study are shown in Table 2. Tools are

devices, especially held in the hand, used to carry out the activities in the conduct of

the study. The researchers believed that proper usage of tools and equipment is an

integral part of a good performance of work. The functions and uses of the different

tools and equipment needed in conducting this study were described in the table.
 Table 2. Tools and Equipment

A. TOOLS FUNCTIONS USES

Aluminium Bucket A container for solid and It is use as a container

liquid. of dyestuff.

It is use for the

It is ideally used for extraction of dye.
Aluminium Pot cooking.

It is use for soaking dyed

It is commonly used for textile material.
Basin washing.

It is use for measuring

Used for holding liquids. liquids.
Beaker

It is use for holding the

A fastener used to hang dyed fabrics.
Laundry clips fabric for drying.

It is use for hanging dyed

It is used to hang fabric. fabric.
Hanger

It is use for cutting the

It is a tool used for cutting fabric.
Pair of scissor the fabric.

It is use for stirring and

It is used to stir solutions. mixing liquids.
Stirring rod

Thermometer It is an instrument that It is use for measuring

 temperature.
measures temperature.

B. EQUIPMENT

Electric stove It is commonly used for It is use for heating and

cooking and heating. boiling mordants and
dyestuff.

Electronic Balance It is used to measure the It is use for measuring

mass of smaller solids. small quantities such as
mordants

Weighing Scale It is used to determine the It is use for measuring

weight. weight of the source

Pre-mordanting
 Scouring Degumming

Extraction of Dye

Application of Dyestuff

Testing and Evaluation

Dyed Cotton and Silk

Fabric

Fig. 1. Flowchart showing the development of dyestuff.

Procedures

In this study, four (4) processes will be followed: 1.Pre- Mordanting; 2.

Extraction of dye; 3. Application of Dyestuff; and 4. Testing and Evaluation. In this

study the following will be thoroughly followed:

Pre- Mordanting.

MORDANTING

This process will be done to the cotton and silk fabric using 4 grams copper

sulphate and 10 grams alum. The use of mordant improves the bond between the dyes

and dyed poplin and silk fabric, as well as extending the range of hues that can be

obtained from the dyestuff. The volume of water will be based on the standard liquor

ratio = 1:20. For the mordant, it will be based on the weight of the fabric to be dyed,

on the weight of the materials, mordant, and the tap water using liquor ratio of 1:20,

then boiled for 30 minutes and 60 minutes respectively. While boiling, continuous

stirring will be done so that there is an even distribution of the colouring substance.

The poplin and silk fabric will be taken out from the solution. The mordanted fabrics

are set aside ready for dye application.

Scouring. The tern scouring applies to the removal of impurities such as oil,

wax gum, soluble impurities and solid dirt commonly found in textile material. The

process consists essentially of treatment with alkali, a good supply of water is

essential. Natural fibers contain oils, fats, waxes, minerals, leafy matter and motes as

impurities that interfere with dyeing and finishing. Synthetic fibers contain producer
spin finishes, coning oils and/or knitting oils. Mill grease used lubricate processing

equipment mill dirt, temporary fabric markings and the like may contaminate fabrics

as they are being produced.

Degumming. Degumming is the process of removing the sericin, or silk gum,

from silk. Removing the gum improves the sheen, color, hand, and texture of the silk.

Because the gum can serve as a protective layer, it is typically left on the silk until it

is ready to dye. In some cases, the fabric is woven to completion, and then

degummed, to protect the yarn from abrasion on the loom. Degumming process are

performed at DMMMSU NLUC PRTI

Extraction of Dye. Aqueous extraction using distilled Water will be used in extracting

the lemon grass. Three hundred (300%) concentration will be used to determine the

amount of the dye source and the volume of water, multiply the weight of lemon

grass leaves with the liquor ratio of 1:20. Sixty (60) minutes extraction and thirty (30)

minutes dye application and sixty (60) minutes extraction and sixty (60) minutes dye

application are the time limits for lemon grass dyestuff and alum and copper sulfate

as mordant. Furthermore, the lemon grass will be boiled using 6020 ml of water

measured by using a beaker and the temperature will be observed up to 65ºC before

setting the timer for 60 minutes extraction. When 60 minutes of extraction is done,

the dyestuff will be filtered using a filter cloth to remove source residues and improve

the dye distribution.

 Application of Dyestuff. The established dyeing condition for the lemon grass

dyestuff is 30 minutes and 60 minutes boiling time. Afterwards, the dyed cotton and

silk fabric.

Testing and Evaluation. The dyed cotton and silk fabric will be tested at

school for color fastness to washing and colorfastness to sunlight domestically treated

at home. The sample cotton and silk fabric will be exposed to sunlight for 24 hour,

while the other samples will also be subjected to washing using perla soap through

stirring and soak method. The change of color of the tested cotton fabric will be

compared to an unexposed sample to determine the colorfastness to washing and

colorfastness to sunlight rating. The evaluation forms will be filled-out by the

evaluators. Color value will be determined using android application Color Analysis

Pro.

Data to be gathered

The evaluator of the study will be ( 23) respondents: six (6) faculty from the

textile and fashion technology department from the college of technology, twelve

(12) housewives, and five (5) student from textile and fashion technology department,

college of technology. Random sampling will be used in housing the housewife

The main data gathering tool for the evaluation of the dyed fabric from lemon

grass dyestuff will be an evaluation from confirming to likert scale. The researchers

will adopt a questionnaire of viller et al. from the study development and evaluation

of onion skin as dyestuff and tamarind seed coat as mordant for the colorfastness to

washing and sunlight.

Data Analysis

Responses to questionnaire will be categorized, tabulated, and analysed in

accordance with the objectives of the study. In the comparative analysis on the

significant difference on the mordant and boiling time, t- test will be used. On the

colorfastness to washing and colorfastness to sunlight of the dyed poplin fabric, mean

will be used.

The categorization of data are as follows:

Point Value Mean Descriptive Rating

5 4.20 – 5.00 No Change in Color/ Very Good Performance

4 3.40 – 4.19 Slight Change in Color/ Good Performance

3 2.60 – 3.39 Noticeable Change in Color/ Fair

Performance

2 1.80 – 2.59 Considerable Change in Color/ Poor

Performance

1 1.00 – 1.79
Much Change in Color/ Very Poor
Performance
 Chapter 3

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Color value

Color is one of the most powerful elements. It has tremendous expressive

qualities. Understanding the uses of the color is crucial to effective composition.

Color is the visual byproduct of the spectrum of light as it is either transmitted

through a transparent medium, or as it is absorbed and reflected off a surface. Color

is the light wavelengths that the human eye receives and processes from a reflected

source.

Value refers to the lightness or darkness of a color. It indicates the quantity of

light reflected. When referring to pigments, dark values with black added are called

“shades” of the given hue name. Light values with white pigment added are called

“tints” of the hue name.

A lemon grass leaf, which was extracted by aqueous extraction, was the main

source of dye color for the study. When poplin and silk are mordanted, the colors

range depending on the mordant used and boiling time; for poplin it ranges from Old

gold to Brass and to Dark Khaki, and for silk it ranges from Brass to Old Gold and to

Olive.

Using lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus) leaves as dyestuff; the researchers,

utilizing 30 minutes and 60 minutes boiling time, were able to determine the color

value of the dyestuff. Hence, the color value of dyed poplin revealed Dark Khaki color
after 30 minutes boiling with alum as mordant. Furthermore, the finest color value of

dyed poplin which is Old gold was achieved using 60 minutes boiling time with alum as

mordant.

On the other hand, the color value of dyed silk revealed consistent Brass color value

after 30 minutes and 60 minutes boiling time using alum as mordant. Additionally, the

color value of dyed silk using 30 minutes boiling time revealed Olive color using

copper sulfate as mordant. Also, after 60 minutes boiling time, the dyed silk achieved

the same range which is Olive color, yet the percentage is lower than the 30 minutes

boiling time using copper sulfate.

Moreover, the color value of the dyed fabrics such as poplin and silk fabric

samples were determined using the Color Picker Mobile App, an application which can

identify and analyze the color value of dyed materials.

Hence, with the same natural dye from lemon grass and different mordant

used; mainly copper sulfate and alum, the dyed fabrics created color value of Old

gold to Brass, and Dark Khaki to Olive, respectively. In terms of attaining the optimal

color value, different types of mordant are required for the same amount of dye to

achieve a premium result, thus each mordant-dye combination gained different

result. As a result, using alum and copper sulfate as mordant, the researchers

determined that poplin cloth is more successful at absorbing dye from lemon grass

leaves compared to that of silk fabric.

Evaluation of Colorfastness to Washing

Table 3. Colorfastness to Washing with Alum to Silk and Poplin Fabric

Mordant / Extraction Mean Mean Mean Grand Descriptive

Time / Fabric Used (Faculty) (Students) (Housewives) Mean Rating
No Change in
Color / Very
Alum / 30 – 60 / Silk 4.39 4.80 4.08 4.39
Good
Performance
No Change in
Color / Very
Alum / 60 – 30 / Silk 4.35 4.40 4.08 4.35
Good
Performance
No Change in
Alum / 30 – 60 / Color / Very
4.39 4.80 4.17 4.39
Poplin Good
Performance

No Change in
Alum / 60 – 30 /
4.39 4.60 4.08 4.39 Color / Very
Poplin
Good
Performance

Colorfastness to washing is the ability of a dyed fabric to resist fading or

staining caused by washing.

Table 3 presents the evaluation of the result of the colorfastness to washing of

dyed fabric using the lemongrass.

Dyed silk with a combination of lemongrass and alum with the dying time 30

mins- 60 minutes garnered a mean rating of 4.39 described as No Change in Color /

Very Good Performance. While the combinations of lemongrass and alum with dying

time of 60 mins – 30 minutes garnered a mean rating of 4.35 described as No Change

in Color / Very Good Performance. With 30 mins- 60 minutes boiling time using alum

as mordant, the lowest rating garnered a score of 4.08 which means No Change in

Color / Very Good Performance. Likewise, data extracted from 60 min – 30 minutes

boiling time, the lowest rating garnered a score of 4.08 which means No Change in

Color / Very Good Performance. Hence, abovementioned data was extracted from dye

application with alum as mordant.

In the study of Ibrahim 2017, Silk fabrics dyed with Eucalyptus leaf extract,

quercetin, rutin, and tannin using the pad-batch method show higher color strength

than those dyed with the pad-dry technique. Tannins are considered as a main

colorant in dyeing processes because of the shade similarities of Eucalyptus leaves.

The color fastness to washing showed very good results, whereas the color fastness to

rubbing was fair to good, except for silk fabric dyed with tannin mordanted with

Eucalyptus with ferrous sulfate, where ratings were poor when subjected to wet

rubbing. The light fastness rating of the silk fabric mordanted with ferrous sulfate

showed a fair to good result, but in the case of the silk fabric dyed with quercetin

without mordant, the fastness rating was poor. The application of natural dyes to silk

fabric by the pad-batch technique can be considered to be an effective Eco option;

hence this technique could be considered to be the most suitable for small scale

industry and cottage dyeing.

Dyed poplin with a combination of lemongrass and alum with the dying time 30

mins- 60 minutes garnered a mean rating of 4.39 described as No Change in Color /

Very Good Performance. While the combinations of lemongrass and alum with dying

time of 60 mins – 30 minutes garnered a mean rating of 4.39 described as No Change

in Color / Very Good Performance. With 30 mins- 60 minutes boiling time using alum

as mordant, the lowest rating garnered a score of 4.17 which means No Change in

Color / Very Good Performance. Likewise, data extracted from 60 min – 30 minutes

boiling time, the lowest rating garnered a score of 4.08 which means No Change in

Color / Very Good Performance. Hence, abovementioned data was extracted from dye

application with alum as mordant.

According to D’ Cruz , most of the naturally dyed cotton fabrics showed

remarkable wash fastness property. It was observed that fading was more or greater

for the fabrics treated with the solid detergents probably due to the presence of

bleaching agents in the detergents. This may be due to the selectively higher pH of

the solutions of the solid detergents. On the other hand, it was noted that fading with

liquid detergents was significantly less. We can thus conclude that as bleaching agents

are added to solid detergents mainly to avoid formation of scum in the machine,

efforts should be made to develop a liquid detergent for the washing machine having

anti-fungal agents to avoid scum and odour formation in the machine. The results

obtained in this work show a promising potential of the use of natural dyes practically

in the textile industry where the wash fastness properties of the fabrics is retained to

some extent. Moreover, natural dyes are more convenient to use as they are safe,

eco-friendly and non-toxic as well as the quality control on the shade obtained can be

easily achieved as compared with the synthetic dyes used in the various sectors. The

washing process may cause a shade variation more or less depending the washing

conditions and the types of mordant employed in the dyeing. The study investigated

provided us information regarding the parameters affecting the properties of the

dyes and the way how improvement could be figured out and developed so as to

encourage the utilization of natural dyes for better applications in the textile

industry.

Table 4. shows the evaluation of the result of the colorfastness to washing of

dyed fabric using copper sulfate as mordant.

Dyed silk with a combination of lemongrass and copper sulfate with the dying

time 30 mins- 60 minutes garnered a mean rating of 4.43 described as No Change in

Color / Very Good Performance. While the combinations of lemongrass and copper

sulfate with dying time of 60 mins – 30 minutes garnered a mean rating of 4.26

described as No Change in Color / Very Good Performance. With 30 mins- 60 minutes

boiling time using copper sulfate as mordant, the lowest rating garnered a score of

4.40 which means No Change in Color / Very Good Performance.

Table 4. Colorfastness to Washing with Copper Sulphate to Silk and Poplin Fabric

Mordant / Extraction Mean Mean Mean Grand Descriptive

Time / Fabric Used (Faculty) (Students) (Housewives) Mean Rating
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 30
Color / Very
– 60 / Silk 4.43 4.40 4.50 4.43
Good
Performance
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 60
Color / Very
– 30 / Silk 4.26 4.60 4.25 4.26
Good
Performance
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 30
Color / Very
– 60 / Poplin 4.65 5.00 4.50 4.65
Good
Performance
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 60 Color / Very
4.22 4.40 4.00 4.22
– 30 / Poplin Good
Performance
 Likewise, data extracted from 60 min – 30 minutes boiling time, the lowest

rating garnered a score of 4.25 which means No Change in Color / Very Good

Performance. Hence, abovementioned data was extracted from dye application with

copper sulfate as mordant.

According to Shabbir et al. (2016) in application of Terminalia chebula natural

dye on wool fibre-evaluation of colour and fastness properties. Data shows that the

deeper the colour of dyed fabric, the higher the colour strength value (K/S). The K/S

value of unmordanted dyed fabric is less than those of metal salt mordanted dyed

fabrics. Calcium chloride mordanted dyed fabrics have higher colour strength values

than alum mordanted dyed fabrics. This observation may be as a result of deeper

colour of calcium chloride mordanted dyed fabrics than alum mordanted dyed fabrics.

It was equally observed that pre-mordanted dyed fabric has highest K/S value, post-

mordanted dyed fabric has higher K/S value and meta-mordanted dyed fabric has the

lowest K/S value among all the mordanted dyed fabric. Rather et al. (2016) also made

the same findings.

According to Nalankili et al.,

washing fastness is one of the most desired factors to aesthetic value of cloth. Color o

f garments can bedeformed and changed due to various reasons. This kind of fading or 

change in the depth of shade leadsthe users very unsatisfied. Due to this, to study the 

reason of low washing fastness or color fading isvery important. In the present work t

he effect of sunlight on color fastness to washing rate of differentfabrics was studied. 

Seven different woven and knitted fabrics; 100% cotton, 100% polyester, polyester-
cotton, polyester-viscose and polyester

wool blended fabrics were used for this study. Each of the fabricwas divided into two 

groups and colorfastness to washing was done before and after sunlight exposure.In ca

se of fabric exposed to direct sunlight for different set of times, each fabric was teste

d for washingfastness. The half of those fabrics was directly tested for wash fastness 

without exposing to directSunlight. Both groups of tests were done as per ES ISO 105-

C10:2016 standard. This investigation hasshown that except polyester-viscose and pol

yester fabrics, all other samples wash fastness droppedsignificantly in terms of ratting 

digital grade as the exposure time has increased.

Evaluation of Colorfastness to Sunlight

Table 5. Colorfastness to Sunlight with Alum to Silk and Poplin Fabric

Mordant / Extraction Mean Mean Mean Grand Descriptive

Time / Fabric Used (Faculty) (Students) (Housewives) Mean Rating
No Change /
Alum / 30 – 60 / Silk 4.61 5.00 4.42 4.61 Very Good
Performance
No Change /
Alum / 60 – 30 / Silk 4.57 5.00 4.25 4.57 Very Good
Performance
No Change /
Alum / 30 – 60 / Very Good
4.39 4.60 4.17 4.39
Poplin Performance

No Change /
Alum / 60 – 30 /
4.39 4.40 4.33 4.39 Very Good
Poplin
Performance

As shown in Table 5, , four point sixty one (4.61) is the mean of the faculty,

five (5) in students and four point forty-two (4.42) in housewives. The grand mean is
four point sixty one (4.61) which mean no change or very good performance. The

mordant time and extraction fabric used are 30 minutes in alum and 60 minutes to

silk

The opposite way of mordant time and extraction fabric used is 60 minutes to

alum and 30 minutes in silk. Four point fifty seven (4.57) is the mean of the faculty,

five (5) in students and four point forty two (4.42) in housewives. The grand mean is

four point fifty seven (4.57) which mean no change or very good performance.

Four point thirty nine (4.39) is the mean of the faculty, four point sixty (4.60)

for students, four point seventeen (4.17) in the housewives. The grand mean is four

point thirty nine (4.39) which mean no change or very good performance. The

mordant time and extraction of fabric used are 30 minutes in alum and 60 minutes in

poplin.

The opposite way of mordant time and extraction fabric used is 60 minutes to

alum and 30 minutes in poplin. Four point thirty nine (4.39) is the mean of the

faculty, four point forty (4.40) in students and four point thirty three (4.33) in

housewives. The grand mean is four point thirty nine (4.39) which mean no change or

very good performance.

It shows that the rating of colorfastness to sunlight with alum to silk and

poplin fabric are all very good and no color changes. The highest grand mean is 4.61

in alum 30 minutes and silk 60 minutes; it is outstanding fabric that lemon grass

dyestuff used.
 On the authority of Saha (2018) Factors which have effect on color fastness,

color fastness to light is a property of a colored substance, usually denoted by a

number, that indicates a graded change in its color properties when exposed to

sunlight or an artificial light source. A sample of the textile to be examined, as well

as a set of reference materials, are exposed to artificial light under controlled

settings. Color fastness is determined by comparing the test specimen's color change

to that of the reference materials.

According to Gester Instruments (2019) Standard test method for fastness to

sunlight of fabrics the degree of lightfastness of the dyed fabric, that is, the degree

of discoloration and discoloration of the dyed fabric under the illumination of sunlight

or artificial light sources, is referred to as light fastness. Sunlight fading is a relatively

complex process. The dye absorbs light energy and the molecules disintegrate or

reorganize, resulting in discolouration and discoloration when exposed to light. The

fading mechanism varies, for example, azo colors fade on cellulose fibers primarily

owing to dye oxidation by air under the influence of light, whereas their fading on

protein fibers is frequently due to reduction.Light fastness is graded according to

international standards, with the lowest grade 1 equating to fading after 3 hours of

exposure to sunshine and the highest grade 8 equating to fading after 384 hours of

exposure to sunlight. The technique of evaluation is based on a comparison to a blue

wool standard. The standard is a wool fabric dyed with eight different light fastness

blue dyes that are geometrically spaced in terms of solarization. Level 2 sun 57 hours,

level 3 sun 112 hours, level 4 sun 166 hours, level 5 sun 220 hours, level 6 sun 275

hours, and level 7 sun 329 hours. The light fastness can reach 4 under normal
conditions, and the particular requirements for high light fastness can reach 5 levels.

However, in the actual test, since the intensity of the sunlight is unstable, the test

results are also different, so the artificial light source (the xenon arc lamp, the

carbon arc lamp) is used to test the light fastness.

It shows that the rating of colorfastness to sunlight with alum to silk and

poplin fabric are all very good and no color changes. The highest grand mean is 4.61

in alum 30 minutes and silk 60 minutes; it is outstanding fabric that lemon grass

dyestuff used

Table 6. Colorfastness to Sunlight with Copper Sulphate to Silk and Poplin Fabric

Mordant / Extraction Mean Mean Mean Grand Descriptive

Time / Fabric Used (Faculty) (Students) (Housewives) Mean Rating
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 30
Color / Very
– 60 / Silk 4.65 5.00 4.42 4.65
Good
Performance
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 60
Color / Very
– 30 / Silk 4.57 4.80 4.33 4.57
Good
Performance
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 30
Color / Very
– 60 / Poplin 4.57 4.80 4.33 4.57
Good
Performance
No Change in
Copper Sulphate / 60 Color / Very
4.57 4.80 4.33 4.57
– 30 / Poplin Good
Performance

Table 6. Presented the evaluation of the result of colorfastness to sunlight of

dyed fabric using the lemongrass. As revealed in table 6, the grand mean from 30
mins. – 60 minutes dye application in copper sulphate garnered a mean rating 4.65

which described No Change in Color / Very Good Performance and the 60 min – 30

minutes garnered 4.57 which described No Change in Color / Very Good Performance

while the both 30 min – 60 minutes and 60 min. – 30 minutes copper sulphate

garnered 4.57 which resulted No Change in Color / Very Good Performance . Both of

this combinations of boiling time, extraction and dye application, when applied on

the silk and poplin fabric is resulted a No Change in Color / Very Good Performance.

This indicates that the affinity and dye ability of color were distributed evenly and

retained in the surface of the fabric. The developed lemongrass with 12 percent

copper sulphate had a No Change in Color / Very Good Performance.

According to Ermanilia (2021) Concerning the process of developing the dye,

the weaving group had added leaves to help make color more saturated and long-

lasting. The mordant used in the process was done by copper sulphate in clean water

and add rust to help increase the concentration of the color. Natural dye made from

lemongrass leaves was considered safe, resistant to repeated washing, resistant to

sunlight and iron, as well as environmentally friendly.

According to Asst. Prof. Kornnut Suksawat (2018) revealed that he had been

collecting leftover lemongrass leaves as agricultural waste and developing them into

natural dye for cotton thread as part of weaving process. The group would then

develop obtained from the natural dye made from lemongrass leaves, thus, making

the product and modern. It could be said that either food dye and clothing dye were

synthesized chemically, many of which were unsafe to the human health. The
naturally made dye was considered to be safe to human and environment and yet

beautiful for dyeing clothes.

Comparison

Table 7. Comparative Analysis Between 30 mins / 60 mins and 60 mins / 30 mins

Extraction Procedure in Colorfastness to Washing

Mordant Fabric t stat t tabular Decision

Used
There is no significant
Silk 0.27 2.02
difference
Alum
There is no significant
Poplin 0.00 2.02
difference

There is no significant
Silk 1.23 2.02
difference
Copper
Sulphate
There is a significant
Poplin 3.24 2.02
difference

It can be gleaned from the table that the t stat of 3.24 is greater than that of

the t tabular of 2.02. This only means that there is a significant difference between

the 30 mins/60 mins and 60 mins /30 mins colorfastness to sunlight using copper

sulphate as mordant to poplin fabric.

Table 7 presented that there is no significant difference between 30/ 60

minutes and 60/ 30 minutes with alum and copper sulphate mordant based on the t-

tabular that can be seen in the table which the valued 2.02 due to color fastness to

washing. In addition ther is no significancant difference between t- stat and t-

tabular.
 One of the most popular textile dyeing fastness test items is color fastness to

washing, which involves evaluating the color dyeing fastness of textile materials for

garment and home textile products following one or more simulations of household

and commercial washing. The common test standards are GB/T 3921-2008, ISO 105

C10: 2006, and AATCC 61: 2010. As a result, comparing the three standards is

important.

The test procedure is to stitch the specimen and the neighboring standard

fabric together, then wash, clean, and dry the specimen before placing it in a suitable

temperature, alkali concentration, bleaching, and friction environment, and then

clean it to produce a faster test result. The rolling and collision of small liquor ratios

and an appropriate quantity of stainless steel balls is used to achieve the friction of

this period. Removing the specimen and use the Gray Scale for Color Change to assess

the color change degree of the specimen, as well as the staining degree (grade) of

neighboring fabric, where Grade 1 is the worst and Grade 5 is the best. The paper

compared the three standards, carried out the test on the same fabric, using different

standards, and compared the test results based on washing temperature, detergent,

preparation for cloth sample, adjacent fabric, and other factors.

The color fastness to washing or color fastness to soaping tester is another

name for the washing fastness tester. It is used to evaluate the color fade and original

fabric color during the soap washing process. The lining has become stained. The test

principle is to sew textile samples with one or two specified standard lining fabrics,

immerse them in soap or a soap and anhydrous carbon-sodium mixture, mechanically

agitate them under specified time and temperature conditions, and then clean and
dry them. Use the original sample as a reference sample, and evaluate the

discoloration of the sample and the staining grade of the lining fabric with a gray

sample card or instrument.

Water fastness, also known as water stain fastness, is a measurement of the

original fabric's discoloration and the lining's staining following exposure to water.

The test involves sewing a textile sample with one or two specified standard lining

fabrics, immersing it in water, pressing out the excess water, and placing it in the

centre of the test device's two plates at set pressure. Take it out after a certain

amount of time has passed. The sample and lining fabric are dried, the original

sample serves as a reference sample, and the gray sample card or instrument is used

to assess the sample's discoloration and staining grade of the lining fabric.

The lack of completely revealed wash testing methodology in the studied

sources limits the given insight into existing e-textile wash testing procedures. The

lack of information on industry procedures significantly narrows the scope of overall

knowledge on the subject. Despite these constraints, this research is able to

emphasize the necessity for e-textile-specific standardization in order to overcome

the current lack of comparability among the many approaches used. Despite the fact

that no appropriate e-textile standards exist yet, a standard is already being utilized

as the foundation for washability testing in 60% of the publications reviewed—with

varied degrees of compliance. This figure indicates that researchers are willing to use

standards in a large proportion of cases.

 The present standards are all textile-based, and they don't take into account

the integrated electrically conductive and electronic components of e-textiles, as

well as any potential safety problems. A future standard should include a number of

distinct washing routines for various types of washing machines. These programs

should take into account various e-textile use scenarios in terms of cleaning

frequency, hygiene needs, and staining potential. Different requirements resulting

from the materials and production methods used for a particular e-textile must also

be taken into account. Accelerated or comparable test procedures will also need to

be offered in order to provide a practical way to assess long-term washing reliability.

The scope of such a standard should include appropriate evaluation procedures that

allow users to assess the washability of their products in a reliable and comparable

manner. More knowledge of how different washing conditions influence different

types of e-textiles is required to build such specialized testing procedures,

particularly if faster testing methods are to be developed. Only a collaborative effort

including interdisciplinary experts from all sectors involved in the development of e-

textiles would result in appropriate standardization.

In the view of researchers, from the previous and presented study conducted

had no significant difference between the Extraction Procedure in Colorfastness to

washing.

Table 8. Comparative Analysis Between 30 mins / 60 mins and 60 mins / 30 mins

Extraction Procedure in Colorfastness to Sunlight

Mordant Fabric t stat t tabular Decision

Used
There is no significant
Silk 0.293 2.02
difference
Alum
There is no significant
Poplin 0.00 2.02
difference

There is no significant
Silk 0.59 2.02
difference
Copper
Sulphate
There is no significant
Poplin 0.00 2.02
difference

***Take Note… There is no significant difference because the t stat is lesser

than the t tabular. Sa lahat ng mordant used applied to both silk and poplin fabrics

Table 8 presented that there is no significant difference between 30/ 60

minutes and 60/ 30 minutes with alum and copper sulphate mordant based on the t-

tabular that can be seen in the table which the valued 2.02 due to color fastness to

sunlight. In addition there is no significanct difference between t- stat and t- tabular.

The effect of light on dye fading is a complex process influenced by numerous

variables, making color fastness to light predictive studies difficult to establish. The

amount of shade, the presence of undesirable chemicals, humidity, temperature, the

existence of atmospheric impurities, and the spectral quality and intensity of incident

light all have an impact on the final product. There are many different light fastness

test to choose from, and these are the xenon arc and MBTF lamp; however, carbon

arc and natural sunlight are also used. The goal of a color fastness to light test is to

see how quickly a color fades when exposed to a certain light source. Typically,
individuals dress in the fabric and go outdoors to accomplish their jobs. Sunlight falls

on the fabric surface during the day. As a result, it is necessary to determine how

much sun protection a fabric offers. Color fastness is an experiment that determines

it.

One of the most sought characteristics of a cloth's aesthetic value is its ability

to withstand washing. The color of clothing can be warped and changed for a variety

of reasons. Users are dissatisfied when there is fading or a shift in the depth of shade.

As a result, determining the cause of low washing fastness or color fading is critical.

The influence of sunshine on the color fastness to washing rate of various fabrics was

investigated in their study. For their research, they used seven different woven and

knitted materials: 100 percent cotton, 100 percent polyester, polyester-cotton,

polyester-viscose, and polyester-wool blended fabrics. Each fabric was split into two

groups, and colorfastness to washing was tested before and after exposure to

sunshine.

Each cloth was tested for washing fastness after being exposed to direct

sunlight for various periods of time. The wash fastness of half of the materials was

directly evaluated without being exposed to direct sunlight. Both groups of testing

were carried out in accordance with the ES ISO 105-C10:2016 standard. Except for

polyester-viscose and polyester fabrics, the wash fastness of all other samples

decreased significantly in terms of ratting digital grade as the exposure period rose.
 In the view of researchers, from the previous and presented study conducted

had no significant difference between the Extraction Procedure in Colorfastness to

Sunlight.
 Chapter 4

SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS ANS RCOMMENDATIONS

Summary

The study aims to develop and evaluate the dyestuff from the Lemongrass (

Cymbopogon citratus) applied to textile materials in Santol, particularly in Brgy.

Puguil. It sought to 1.) to determine the color value of the dyestuff from the lemon

grass (Cymbopogon citratus) dyestuff; 2.) to evaluate the colorfastness properties of

dye to silk and poplin fabric in terms of: Colorfastness to washing; and Colorfastness

to sunlight and 3.) to determine the significant difference in colorfastness to washing

and colorfastness to sunlight in terms of: Dyeing time (30 minutes 60 minutes

application and 60 minutes and 30 minutes dye application); and mordant to use

(alum and copper sulfate).

The researchers used developmental evaluative descriptive research design, as

it was deemed operative to easily gather data for study. Evaluated by six (6) faculty

members from the textile and fashion technology department of the College of

Technology, twelve (12) housewives in San Juan, and five (5) third year textile and

fashion technology students of the College of Technology. With a total number of

twenty three (23) respondents.

The salient findings of this study were the following:

1. The color of the dyed fabric yielded dark color. The cotton fabric

mordanted with alum and a dyed for 30 minutes and 60 minutes garnered

dark shade of color while the cotton fabric mordanted with copper sulphate
 dyed 30 minutes and 60 minutes which garnered light shade color. While the

silk fabric mordanted with alum and dyed for 30 minutes and 60 minutes

garnered dark shade of color while the cotton fabric mordanted with copper

sulphate dyed 30 minutes and 60 minutes which garnered dark shade color.

2. The evaluation of the colorfastness to laundering revealed the there is no

change in color or very good performance on the other hand colorfastness

to sunlight revealed that there is no change in color or very good

performance.

3. There is no significant difference between the alum and copper sulphate

with the boiling time of 30 minutes / 60 minutes and 60 minutes/ 30

minutes in terms of colorfastness to washing. In terms of colorfastness to

sunlight with the boiling time of 30 minutes / 60 minutes and 60 minutes /

30 minutes with the used of alum and copper sulphate.

Conclusions

Based on the findings, the following conclusions are forwarded;

1. Lemon grass leaves can be developed as source of natural dye using alum and

copper sulphate as mordant with very highly acceptable evaluation in terms of

colorfastness to washing based from the unanimous appraisal of the

respondents. .

2. Lemon grass leaves can be developed as source of natural dye using alum and

copper sulphate as mordant with very highly acceptable evaluation in terms of

 colorfastness to sunlight based from the unanimous assessment of the

respondents.

3. Lemon grass leaves can be developed as a source of dye using copper sulphate

to achieve a more desirable result and or a very highly acceptable evaluation

compared to allum.

4. Developing lemongrass leaves as source of natural dye is very highly

acceptable in terms of intensity of colorfastness using 60 minutes boiling time

compared to 30 minutes boiling time.

5. Developed Lemongrass leaves as dyestuff is very much highly acceptable in

terms of colorfastness in silk fabrics compared to poplin fabrics.

Recommendations

In light of the study, the following recommendations are hereby given:

1. To other developers: The researchers suggest other developers in La Union to

explore Ferrous Sulphate and or other mordant in developing lemon grass as

dyestuff to achieve desirable result.

2. To the future researchers: The researchers recommend to the future

researchers to tap related laboratories in measuring the intensity of color for

the accuracy of results. Moreover, future researchers are encourage to take

into consideration the pH level of water (must be Alkaline or 7 pH level or

above) to be used. In addition, future researchers may use higher quantity of

lemon grass leaves in developing dyestuff to achieve more intense color

aesthetic. The researchers also suggest future researchers to use 60 minute

 boiling time to achieve better results. Future researchers are also urged to

work on whatever research gap or limitations this study might contain.

3. Here tap water medium was used for extraction of lemongrass dye. But in the

future researchers may continue experiment using other media for mordant

extraction like alkaline medium etc.

4. Colorfastness to washing and color fastness to sunlight test was exercised,

although in the future researchers can conduct other colorfastness testing using

colorfastness to crocking and colorfastness to perspiration test.

5. Lemongrass serves here as primary sources of dye. But in the future, further

experiments may be carried out by combining other natural sources of dyes and

possible to get new pigmentations.

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Appendices
PLATES
EVALUATION
FORM
 EVALUATION FORM
NAME: (OPTIONAL)
Respondent ( ) Student
( ) Faculty
( ) Housewife
Direction:

Kindly evaluate the colorfastness of dyed poplin fabric and silk fabric in terms
of colorfastness to sunlight and colorfastness to washing by checking the
corresponding box using scale below.

Numerical Statistical Rating Descriptive Rating

5 4.20-5.00 No change in color/ very good

performance
4 3.40-4.19 Slightly change/ good performance

3 2.60-3.39 Noticeable change/ fair performance

2 1.80-2.59 Considerably change/ poor
performance
1 1.19-1.79 Much change/ very poor performance

COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING

Fabric Used Boiling Mordant Lemon Grass

Time Used

1 2 3 4 5

Poplin 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

Silk 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

COLORFASTNESS TO SUNLIGHT
Fabric Used Boiling Mordant Lemon Grass
Time Used

1 2 3 4 5

Poplin 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

Silk 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

BOILING TIME

Fabric Used Boiling Mordant Lemon Grass

Time Used

1 2 3 4 5

Poplin 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

Silk 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

MORDANT USED

Fabric Used Boiling Mordant Lemon Grass

 Time Used

1 2 3 4 5

Poplin 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

Silk 30 mins. 60 mins. Alum

60 mins. 30 mins

30 mins. 60 mins. Copper

Sulphate
60 mins. 30 mins

THANK YOU !!!

COMMUNICATION
LETTER
CURRICULUM
VITAE
 CURRICULUM VITAE

Personal Information

Name: Donna A. Nachor

Address: Bilagan, Puguil, Santol La Union

Civil Status: Single

Birth Date: August , 28, 20000

Parent: Mr Danilo Nachor

Mrs Ana Nachor

Educational Background

Tertiary: S.Y 2019- 2023

Don Mariano Marcos Memorial State university

Catbangen City of San Fernando La Union

Secondary: S.Y 2018- 2019

Santol, Vocational, High School- Main

Poblacion, santol, La Union

Elementary: S.Y 2012- 2013

Santol, Central,School

Poblacion, Santol, La union

Personal Information

Name: Marielle S. Agoot

Address:Cantoria no.4 , Luna, La Union

Civil Status:Single

Birth Date:September 26, 2000

Parent:Mr. Justino A. Agoot

Mrs. Imelda S. Agoot

Educational Background

Tertiary: S. Y.: 2022 -present

Don Mariano Marcos Memorial State University Catbangen, City of San Fernando, La Union

Secondary: S. Y.: 2017-2018

Luna National High School Cantoria Annex- Junior High School

Brgy. Barrientos, Luna, La Union

S. Y.: 2018-2019

Luna National High School Central- Barrientos ,Luna La Union

Elementary: S. Y.: 2012-2013

Cantoria Central School- Cantoria no.2 Luna, La Union

Personal Information

Name: Aprille Jaine E. Difuntorum

Address: Gana, Caba, La Union

Civil Status: Single

Birth Date: Aprille, 09, 2001

Parent: Mr. Dante N. Difuntorum

Mrs. Juvy E. Difuntorum

Educational Background

Tertiary: S.Y 2019- 2023

Don Mariano Marcos Memorial State university

Catbangen City of San Fernando La Union

Secondary: S. Y. 2018- 2019

DEFEMNHS

Consolacion, Agoo La Union

Elementary: S.Y. 2012-2013

San Vicinte San Agustin Elementary School

San Vicente, Agoo, La union

Personal information

Name: Mary Joy D. Macato

Address: Sitio Carcarabasa, Bucao, San Gabriel, La Union

Civil Status: Single

Birth Date: March 10, 2000

Parent: Mr. Avelino L. Macato

Mrs. Sally D. Macato

Educational Background

Tertiary: S. Y.: 2022 -present

Don Mariano Marcos Memorial State University Catbangen, City of San Fernando, La Union

Secondary: S. Y.: 2017-2018

San Juan National High School- Junior High School

Brgy. Ili Sur, San Juan, La Union

S. Y.: 2018-2019

San Juan Senior High School- Stand Alone

Ubungen Road, San Juan, La Union

Elementary: S. Y.: 2012-2013

San Gabriel Central School

Laoeng Poblacion, San Gabriel, La Union

Personal information

Name: Kathrine Lyka L. Saltivan

Address: Pagdalagan Norte San Fernando City, La Union

Civil Status: Single

Birth Date: September 01, 2000

Parent: Leo A. Saltivan

Abigail L. Saltivan

Educational Background

Tertiary: S. Y.: 2022 -present

Don Mariano Marcos Memorial State University Catbangen, City of San Fernando, La Union

Secondary: S. Y.: 2017-2018

La Union National High School- Junior High School

Brgy. Catbangen San Fernando City, La Union

S. Y.: 2018-2019

Union Christian College- Widdoes Street San Fernando City, La Union

Elementary: S. Y.: 2012-2013

Pagudpud Elementary School- Pagudpud San Fernando City, La Union