Reduction of Defects in Casual Shirt

Manufacturing

A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of

the requirement for the award of Degree in
Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By
Aharnish Arpit Tirkey
&
Akshay Nath

Under the Guidance of

Mr. Arivoli N
Assistant Professor

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru
May, 2018
 Table of Contents
Topic Page No.

Certificate
Abstract i
Acknowledgment ii
List of Tables iii
List of Figures iv

INTRODUCTION.......................................................................................................................................1
1.1 Title of the project.......................................................................................................................2
1.2 Background of the project............................................................................................................2
1.3 Introduction.................................................................................................................................2
1.4 Problem statement.......................................................................................................................4
2 Review of literature.............................................................................................................................5
2.1 Quality.........................................................................................................................................5
2.2 Evolution of Total Quality Management: TQM Timeline & History of TQM.............................5
2.3 PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS IN DEVELOPING QA/QC SYSTEMS.............................6
2.3.1 AUDITS..............................................................................................................................7
2.4 Industry perspectives on assurance and control...........................................................................7
2.5 Quality assurance and audit functions..........................................................................................8
2.6 Production Quality Control Procedures.......................................................................................8
2.7 Use of Quality Tools....................................................................................................................8
2.8 Use of DMAIC approach.............................................................................................................9
2.9 Defects and remedies.................................................................................................................11
2.10 AQL...........................................................................................................................................12
2.11 Root cause analysis....................................................................................................................13
2.11.1 Fish bone diagram..............................................................................................................14
2.12 Role of a sewing floor supervisor..............................................................................................15
2.12.1 Discipline in Shop Floor:...................................................................................................15
2.12.2 Style Analysis:...................................................................................................................16
2.12.3 Line Setting:.......................................................................................................................16
2.12.4 Machine Selection:............................................................................................................16
2.12.5 Line Balancing and WIP Control:......................................................................................16
2.12.6 Operator Training:.............................................................................................................16
 2.12.7 Training.............................................................................................................................16
2.12.8 Meeting Target Production:...............................................................................................16
2.12.9 Stitching Quality:...............................................................................................................17
2.12.10 Production Planning.......................................................................................................17
2.12.11 Operatives:.....................................................................................................................17
2.12.12 Induction........................................................................................................................17
2.12.13 Utilization:.....................................................................................................................17
2.12.14 Safety.............................................................................................................................17
2.12.15 Labor relations...............................................................................................................18
2.13 Role of quality checkers............................................................................................................18
2.14 Roles and responsibilities of maintenance in sewing floor.........................................................20
3 Analysis of literature.........................................................................................................................24
4 Need of the research..........................................................................................................................24
5 Research Questions:..........................................................................................................................24
6 Research objective:............................................................................................................................24
6.1 Primary objective:......................................................................................................................24
6.2 Secondary objective:..................................................................................................................24
7 Research design.................................................................................................................................25
7.1 Research tools used:..................................................................................................................25
7.2 Research methods and techniques..............................................................................................25
8 Data collection and Analysis.............................................................................................................26
8.1 Study of defects.........................................................................................................................26
8.2 Daily reports of End Line Checkers...........................................................................................35
8.3 Defect analysis of previous year (2017): -.................................................................................50
8.4 Pareto Analysis of the defects....................................................................................................84
8.4.1 Ishikawa/ Fishbone diagrams.............................................................................................93
8.5 Defect flow in Organization.......................................................................................................97
8.5.1 Champion level floor wise...............................................................................................106
9 Bobbin Thread tracking device........................................................................................................111
9.1 Development of device............................................................................................................111
9.1.1 Concept............................................................................................................................111
9.2 Arduino UNO Code.................................................................................................................112
9.2.1 Test run............................................................................................................................116
 9.2.2 Outcome...........................................................................................................................116
10 Impact of the project....................................................................................................................117
11 Conclusion...................................................................................................................................118
12 Deliverable of the project............................................................................................................118
13 References...................................................................................................................................119
Abstract
With ever increasing buyer’s expectation of quality level and reduced tolerances, defects which
were considered minor earlier are becoming major thus reducing productivity and material
utilization. Pareto analysis and Ishikawa diagrams are great tools for analyzing the causes of the
defects. The approaches available for reducing defects are zero defect, right first time and
kaizens. This study attempts to identify root causes for major defect category. Further operator
accountability for right first time was established.
Keywords: Quality control, tracking defects, Accountability for defects Root Cause analysis of
defects, Bobbin thread tracking device
Acknowledgement

Apart from our efforts, the success of this whole Graduation projects depended largely on the
encouragement and guidance of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude
to the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of the project and whose
contribution in assorted ways to the graduation project deserves special mention.
We would like to express our immense gratitude and sincere appreciation to Aquarelle India Pvt
Ltd Unit 1, Bangalore for giving us an opportunity to pursue our graduation project at their
highly esteemed organization.
In the first place, we would like to record our deepest sense of gratitude to our industry mentor
Mr. Praveen Kumar, Manager of IE department at Aquarelle India Pvt Ltd Unit 1, under his
supervision, advice, valuable support and guidance from the very early stage of the course of our
graduation project, which enabled us to proceed in the right direction and accomplish the mission
of our visit. We are thankful to him for taking the pain to go through the project and make
necessary corrections as and when needed.
Also, we would like to thank our college mentor, Mr. Arivoli N, Assistant Professor our course
coordinator Dr. Jonalee Das Bajpai for always being available to address any doubts. It is
because of their guidance and constant supervision that we have been able to collect and learn
the required information regarding our project.
We would also express our sincere thanks to Mr. Ashok Kumar (Global IED head), Mr. Karuna
Nithi (Production Manager), Mr. Chandra Kumar (Quality Manager) and Mr. Ramprashanth,
Lean Executive for their co-operation and precious inputs on each and every step of our
graduation project.
Words are inadequate in offering thanks to our parents and the Almighty God for their
encouragement in successful completion of the project. It would not have been possible without
the kind support and help of many individuals in the organization. Finally, we would like to
thank everybody who was important to the successful realization of this project, as well as
expressing an apology that we could not mention everyone here. Thank You!
Table 1 TQM timeline (Mangino, 2004).........................................................................................6
Table 2 DMAIC steps (isixsigma, 2018).........................................................................................9
Table 3 Thread consumption ratio (COTS, 2018).........................................................................20
Table 4 Tools used.........................................................................................................................25
Table 5 Research methodology.....................................................................................................25
Table 6 Jan 2017 Defect Report....................................................................................................52
Table 7 Feb 2017 Defect Report....................................................................................................55
Table 8 Mar 2017 Defect Report...................................................................................................57
Table 9 Apr 2017 Defect Report...................................................................................................60
Table 10 May 2017 Defect Report................................................................................................62
Table 11 Jun 2017 Defect Report..................................................................................................65
Table 12 Jul 2017 Defect Report...................................................................................................68
Table 13 Aug 2017 Defect Report.................................................................................................70
Table 14 Oct 2017 Defect Report..................................................................................................75
Table 15 Nov 2017 Defect Report.................................................................................................78
Table 16 Dec 2017 Defect Report.................................................................................................80
Table 17 Year 2017 Defect Report................................................................................................83
Table 18 Month-wise Defect Report.............................................................................................83
Table 19 Pareto Analysis of Broken Stitch....................................................................................85
Table 20 Pareto Analysis of Raw-edge.........................................................................................87
Table 21 Pareto Analysis of Down Stitch......................................................................................88
Table 22 Pareto Analysis Missing Operation................................................................................89
Table 23 Pareto Analysis of Skip Stitch........................................................................................90
Table 24 Cause and solution- broken stitch...................................................................................95
Table 25Cause and solution Raw-edge..........................................................................................95
Table 26 Cause and solution- Down stitch....................................................................................95
Table 27Test run..........................................................................................................................116
Figure 1 5 why...............................................................................................................................14
Figure 2 Fish bone diagram example.............................................................................................15
Figure 3Absolute encoder (anaheimautomation.com, 2018).........................................................22
Figure 4 Arduino UNO..................................................................................................................23
Figure 5 Front section Endline Report...........................................................................................37
Figure 6 Sleeve Section End Line Report......................................................................................38
Figure 7 Back section End line report...........................................................................................39
Figure 8 Collar Section End Line Report......................................................................................40
Figure 9 Cuff section End Line Report..........................................................................................41
Figure 10 Assembly End Line Report...........................................................................................42
Figure 11 Checker Audit Report....................................................................................................44
Figure 12 Sewing Inspection Report (Front & Back)....................................................................46
Figure 13 End line AQL Audit Report Assembly.........................................................................47
Figure 14 Trim and Exam Inspection Report................................................................................49
Figure 15 Pareto – defects.............................................................................................................84
Figure 16 Pareto Analysis of Broken Stitch..................................................................................86
Figure 17 Pareto Analysis of Raw-edge........................................................................................87
Figure 18 Pareto Analysis of Down Stitch....................................................................................88
Figure 19 Pareto Analysis of Missing Operation..........................................................................90
Figure 20 Pareto Analysis of Skip Stitch.......................................................................................91
Figure 21 Broken stitch.................................................................................................................92
Figure 22 Raw-edge – causes........................................................................................................92
Figure 23 Down stitch...................................................................................................................93
Figure 24 Ishikawa (Broken Stitch)...............................................................................................93
Figure 25 Ishikawa (Raw edge).....................................................................................................94
Figure 26 Ishikawa (Down stitch).................................................................................................94
Figure 27 Sub Assembly Flow of Defect......................................................................................97
Figure 28 Assembly Flow of Defect..............................................................................................97
Figure 29 Finishing Flow of Defects.............................................................................................98
Figure 30 Accountability Flow of Sub Assembly operators.........................................................99
Figure 31 Accountability Flow of Assembly operators...............................................................100
Figure 32 Accountability Flow of Sub Assembly, Assembly Checker & Operators..................101
Figure 33 Accountability Flow of Trim and Exam Operators.....................................................102
Figure 34 Accountability Flow of Final Checking Checkers......................................................103
Figure 35 Feedback Session Photos 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8....................................................................105
Figure 36wheel............................................................................................................................111
Figure 37outer wheel...................................................................................................................112
Figure 38 Device Prototype(I).....................................................................................................115
Figure 39 Device Prototype(II)....................................................................................................115
INTRODUCTION
1.1 Title of the project
The title of the project is “Reduction on defects in casual shirt manufacturing industry”.

1.2 Background of the project

The fast-changing economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin,
customer demand for high quality product, product variety and reduced lead–time etc. had a
major impact on manufacturing industries.
The demand for higher value at lower price is increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers
need to improve their operations through-Producing right first-time quality.
The outcome of this observation reflected that an industry may gain higher productivity and
profitability with improved quality product by minimizing rework activities.

The objective of a production system is to transform raw materials into finished products, the
apparel industry has been highly published and include the issues of lead time, production,
productivity etc. These factors are hindered due to various defects in the products. Under quality
control, the prime purpose is to serve those who are directly responsible for conducting
operations to help them regulate current operations.

1.3 Introduction
The concept of continuous quality improvement to reduce chronic waste made little headway.
One likely reason is that most industrial managers give higher priority to increasing income than
to reducing chronic waste. The guilds’ policy of solidarity, which stifled quality improvement,
also may have been a factor. In any event, the concept of quality improvement to reduce chronic
waste did not find full application until the Japanese quality revolution of the twentieth century.
(Technology, 1994)

“Quality” means those features of products which meet customer needs and thereby provide
customer satisfaction. In this sense, the meaning of quality is oriented to income. The purpose of
such higher quality is to provide greater customer satisfaction and, one hopes, to increase
income. However, providing more and/or better-quality features usually requires an investment
and hence usually involves increases in costs. Higher quality in this sense usually “costs more.”
(Joseph M. Juran, 1998)
Quality has been defined as fitness for use, conformance to requirements, and the pursuit of
excellence. Even though the concept of quality has existed from early times, the study and
definition of quality have been given prominence only in the last century. ("Md. Mazedul Islam,
2013)

1920s: quality control. Following the Industrial Revolution and the rise of mass production, it
became important to better define and control the quality of products. Originally, the goal of
quality was to ensure that engineering requirements were met in final products. Later, as
manufacturing processes became more complex, quality developed into a discipline for
controlling process variation as a means of producing quality products.1950s: quality assurance
and auditing. The quality profession expanded to include the quality assurance and quality audit
functions. The drivers of independent verification of quality were primarily industries in which
public health and safety were paramount.

1980s: total quality management (TQM). Businesses realized that quality wasn’t just the domain
of products and manufacturing processes, and total quality management (TQM) principles were
developed to include all processes in a company, including management functions and service
sectors. Quality management today. There have been many interpretations of what quality is,
beyond the dictionary definition of “general goodness.” Other terms describing quality include
reduction of variation, value-added, and conformance to specific. (Öncül, 2014)

The anatomy of “quality assurance” is very similar to that of quality control. Each evaluates
actual quality. Each compares actual quality with the quality goal. Each stimulates corrective
action as needed. What differs is the prime purpose to be served. Under quality control, the
prime purpose is to serve those who are directly responsible for conducting operations to help
them regulate current operations. Under quality assurance, the prime purpose is to serve those
who are not directly responsible for conducting operations but who have a need to know to be
informed as to the state of affairs and, hopefully, to be assured that all is well. In this sense,
quality assurance has a similarity to insurance. Each involves spending a small sum to secure
protection against a large loss. In the case of quality assurance, the protection consists of an early
warning that may avoid the large loss. (Westcott, 2013)
1.4 Problem statement
The fast-changing economic conditions such as global competition, declining profit margin,
customer demand for high quality product, product variety and reduced lead–time etc. had a
major impact on manufacturing industries.
The demand for higher value is increasing and to survive, apparel manufacturers need to improve
their operations through-Producing right first-time quality.
The outcome of this observation reflected that an industry may gain higher productivity and
profitability with improved quality product by minimizing rework activities.
2 Review of literature

2.1 Quality

“Quality” means those features of products which meet customer needs and thereby provide
customer satisfaction. In this sense, the meaning of quality is oriented to income. The purpose of
such higher quality is to provide greater customer satisfaction and, one hopes, to increase
income. However, providing more and/or better-quality features usually requires an investment
and hence usually involves increases in costs. Higher quality in this sense usually “costs more.”
(Joseph M. Juran, 1998)
Quality assurance consists of that “part of quality management focused on providing confidence
that quality requirements will be fulfilled.” The confidence provided by quality assurance is
twofold—internally to management and externally to customers, government agencies,
regulators, certifiers, and third parties.
Quality control is that “part of quality management focused on fulfilling quality requirements.”
While quality assurance relates to how a process is performed or how a product is made, quality
control is more the inspection aspect of quality management.
Inspection is the process of measuring, examining, and testing to gauge one or more
characteristics of a product or service and the comparison of these with specified requirements to
determine conformity. Products, processes, and various other results can be inspected to make
sure that the object coming off a production line, or the service being provided, is correct and
meets specifications.
2.2 Evolution of Total Quality Management: TQM Timeline & History of TQM

The history of total quality management (TQM) began initially as a term coined by the Naval Air
Systems Command to describe its Japanese-style management approach to quality improvement.
An umbrella methodology for continually improving the quality of all processes, it draws on a
knowledge of the principles and practices of:

 The behavioral sciences

 The analysis of quantitative and nonquantitative data

 Economics theories
 Process analysis
Table 1 TQM timeline (Mangino, 2004)

Some of the first seeds of quality management were planted as the principles of scientific
management swept through U.S. industry.
Businesses clearly separated the processes of planning and carrying out the plan, and
union opposition arose as workers were deprived of a voice in the conditions and
1920s
functions of their work.
The Hawthorne experiments in the late 1920s showed how worker productivity could be
impacted by participation.

Walter Shewhart developed the methods for statistical analysis and control of quality.
1930s
W. Edwards Deming taught methods for statistical analysis and control of quality to
Japanese engineers and executives. This can be considered the origin of TQM.
Joseph M. Juran taught the concepts of controlling quality and managerial breakthrough.
Armand V. Feigenbaum’s book Total Quality Control, a forerunner for the present
1950s
understanding of TQM, was published.
Philip B. Crosby’s promotion of zero defects paved the way for quality improvement in
many companies.

The Japanese named their approach to total quality companywide quality control. It is

around this time that the term quality management systems arises.
1968 Kaoru Ishikawa’s synthesis of the philosophy contributed to Japan’s ascendancy as a
quality leader.

TQM is the name for the philosophy of a broad and systemic approach to managing
organizational quality.
Today  Quality standards such as the ISO 9000 series and quality award programs such as the
Deming Prize and the Award specify principles and processes that comprise TQM.

(Westcott, 2013)

Implementation of TQM calls for drastic changes to be done at the organization and a major shift
in the thinking and attitude of the managers towards work. The expected change in the attitude of
managers is across board. This is a very big task and very difficult to measure.
2.3 PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS IN DEVELOPING QA/QC SYSTEMS
Implementing QA/QC procedures requires resources, expertise and time. In developing any
QA/QC system, it is expected that judgements will need to be made on the following:
 Resources allocated to QC for different source categories and the compilation process;
 Time allocated to conduct the checks and reviews of emissions estimates;
 Availability and access to information on activity data and emission factors, including
data quality;
  Procedures to ensure confidentiality of inventory and source category information, when
required;
 Requirements for archiving information;
 Frequency of QA/QC checks on different parts of the inventory;
 The level of QC appropriate for each source category;
 Whether increased effort on QC will result in improved emissions estimates and reduced
uncertainties;
 Whether sufficient expertise is available to conduct the checks and reviews.
In practice, the QA/QC system is only part of the inventory development process and inventory
agencies do not have unlimited resources. Quality control requirements, improved accuracy and
reduced uncertainty need to be balanced against requirements for timeliness and cost
effectiveness. A good practice system seeks to achieve that balance and to enable continuous
improvement of inventory estimates. (Mangino, 2004)
2.3.1 AUDITS
For the purpose of good practice in inventory preparation, audits may be used to evaluate how
effectively the inventory agency complies with the minimum QC specifications outlined in the
QC plan. It is important that the auditor be independent of the inventory agency as much as
possible so as to be able to provide an objective assessment of the processes and data evaluated.
Audits may be conducted during the preparation of an inventory, following inventory
preparation, or on a previous inventory. Audits are especially useful when new emission
estimation methods are adopted, or when there are substantial changes to existing methods. It is
desirable for the inventory agency to develop a schedule of audits at strategic points in the
inventory development. For example, audits related to initial data collection, measurement work,
transcription, calculation and documentation may be conducted. Audits can be used to verify that
the QC steps identified in Table 8.1 have been implemented and that source category-specific
QC procedures have been implemented according to the QC plan. (Sunny Y. J. Sun, 2010)
It is good practice to report a summary of implemented QA/QC activities and key findings as a
supplement to each country’s national inventory. However, it is not practical or necessary to
report all the internal documentation that is retained by the inventory agency. (Mangino, 2004)

2.4 Industry perspectives on assurance and control

For some service organizations, the concept of quality control may be foreign because there is no
tangible product to inspect and control. The quality assurance function in a service organization
may not include quality control of the service but may include quality control of any products
involved in providing the service. (Western Virginia office of technology, 2012)
A service may include products that are documents (such as a report, contract, or design) or
tangible products such as a rental car or units of blood. It may be necessary to control product
quality in a service organization to ensure that the service meets customer requirements.
2.5 Quality assurance and audit functions
Auditing is part of the quality assurance function. It is important to ensure quality because it is
used to compare actual conditions with requirements and to report those results to management.

In the Quality Audit: A Management Evaluation Tool (McGraw-Hill, 1998)Charles Mill wrote
that auditing and inspection are not interchangeable: “The auditor may use inspection techniques
as an evaluation tool, but the audit should not be involved in carrying out any verification
activities leading to the actual acceptance or rejection of a product or service. An audit should be
involved with the evaluation of the process and controls covering the production and verification
activities.”
Formal management systems have evolved to direct and control organizations. There are quality
management systems (QMSs) as well as environmental or other management systems, and each
of these systems may be audited. (McGraw-Hill, 1998)
2.6 Production Quality Control Procedures
The procedures are to improve the quality throughout every phase of manufacturing flow.
(Bharani M., 2012)

 Production Quality Control

 Right first-time encouragement

The main objective of this Quality system is to standardize procedures and Quality Systems
among the various factories to manufacture ‘Right First Time’ products. The Manual serves as a
standard guideline to the Quality Systems and Procedures in factories. ("Neelam Agrawal
Srivastava, 2014)

While data collection from factories, manipulate the data in such a way so that it should be
understandable to higher management and performance of factories should be determined.

2.7 Use of Quality Tools

To quantify the data from the factory, we use quality tools like, (Gary H. Chao, 2009)
 Flowcharts (Junwen Wanga, 2011)
 Check sheets
 Checklist
 Pareto chart
2.8 Use of DMAIC approach

DMAIC (Define, Measure, Analyze, Improve, and Control) refers to a data-driven life-cycle
approach to Six Sigma projects for improving process; it is an essential part of a company's Six
Sigma programme. DMAIC is an acronym for five interconnected phases: define measure,
analyze, improve and control. The simplified definitions of each phase are (Spear, 1999)
1. Define by identifying, prioritizing and selecting the right project,
2. Measure key process characteristic, the scope of parameters and their performances,
3. Analyze by identifying key causes and process determinants,
4. Improve by changing the process and optimizing performance,
5. Control by sustaining the gain.

Table 2 DMAIC steps (isixsigma, 2018)

DMAIC Phase Steps Tools Used

D – Define Phase: Define the project goals and customer (internal and external)
deliverables.
Define Customers and Requirements
Project Charter
(CTQs)
Develop Problem Statement, Goals
Process Flowchart
and Benefits
Identify Champion, Process Owner
SIPOC Diagram
and Team
Define Resources Stakeholder Analysis
Evaluate Key Organizational
DMAIC Work Breakdown Structure
Support
Develop Project Plan and Milestones CTQ Definitions
Develop High Level Process Map Voice of the Customer Gathering
   
Define Tollgate Review
M – Measure Phase: Measure the process to determine current performance; quantify
the problem.
Define Defect, Opportunity, Unit
Process Flowchart
and Metrics
Detailed Process Map of
Data Collection Plan/Example
Appropriate Areas
Develop Data Collection Plan Benchmarking
Validate the Measurement System Measurement System Analysis/Gage R&R
Collect the Data Voice of the Customer Gathering
Begin Developing Y=f(x)
Process Sigma Calculation
Relationship
 Determine Process Capability and  
Sigma Baseline
   

Measure Tollgate Review

A – Analyze Phase: Analyze and determine the root cause(s) of the defects.

Define Performance Objectives Histogram

Identify Value/Non-Value-Added
Pareto Chart
Process Steps
Identify Sources of Variation Time Series/Run Chart
Determine Root Cause(s) Scatter Plot
Determine Vital Few x’s, Y=f(x)
Regression Analysis
Relationship
  Cause and Effect/Fishbone Diagram
  5 Whys
  Process Map Review and Analysis
  Statistical Analysis
  Hypothesis Testing (Continuous and
Discrete)
  Non-Normal Data Analysis
   
Analyze Tollgate Review
I – Improve Phase: Improve the process by eliminating defects.
Perform Design of Experiments Brainstorming

Develop Potential Solutions Mistake Proofing

Define Operating Tolerances of
Design of Experiments
Potential System
Assess Failure Modes of Potential
Pugh Matrix
Solutions
Validate Potential Improvement by
QFD/House of Quality
Pilot Studies
Correct/Re-Evaluate Potential Failure Modes and Effects
 Solution Analysis (FMEA)
 
Simulation Software
   

Improve Tollgate Review

C – Control Phase: Control future process performance.

Define and Validate Monitoring and
Process Sigma Calculation
Control System
Develop Standards and Procedures Control Charts (Variable and Attribute)
Implement Statistical Process
Cost Savings Calculations
Control
Determine Process Capability Control Plan
Develop Transfer Plan, Handoff to  
Process Owner
Verify Benefits, Cost  
Savings/Avoidance, Profit Growth
Close Project, Finalize  
Documentation
Communicate to Business, Celebrate  
   
Control Tollgate Review

2.9 Defects and remedies

Defects means the contents involve in a product which accede measurable limits. Quality is the
demands and when it fulfils then it gives customer satisfaction and also enhances standard of a
product.
Defects Remedies
Backtack missing  Make sure the bartacks are the proper
length.
 Use proper width of the application.
 Observe operator handling.
Broken Stitch  Thickness of thread on operations
should be high. Stitch balance would
 be proper.
 60% / 40% relationship of Needle
thread to Looper thread is maintained
in the Seam On a chain stitch
 Needle point should set according to
fabric demand.
 Needles have to alter at regular basic.
 Monitor sewing operators for accurate
material handling system.
Raw Edge  Sewing operators must have correct
material handling techniques.
 Make sure the patterns/guide have
been designed properly.
 Use ideal seam construction.
Down stitch  Sewing operators must have correct
material handling techniques.
 Make sure the patterns/guide have
been designed properly.
 Use ideal seam construction.
Skipped stitch  Core spun thread may use.
 Machine would not feed the fabric in
back way.
 Supervise feeding system.
 Minimum thread tension.
 Not to stop on the thick part of fabric.
 Set ideal foot, feed and plate.
 Machine should be correctly threaded.
 Machine must be clean.
(D. Gopalkrishnan, 2018)

2.10 AQL
The Acceptable Quality Level is a statistical tool to inspect a particular sample size for a given
lot and set maximum number of acceptable defects. In order words, it is the worst tolerable
process average when a continuing series of lots is submitted for acceptance sampling. The AQL
has been recently renamed from “acceptance quality level” to “acceptance quality limits”. It is
the limit that customer sets which is not really acceptable. Customers prefer zero defect products
or services, which is the ideal acceptable quality level. However, customers arrive and set
acceptable quality limits based on business, financial and safety levels. The AQL of a product
would vary from industry to industry. Companies dealing with medical tools would have more
stringent AQL, as acceptance of defective products could result in health risks. Companies
usually face two possible situations, to weigh against; cost involved in testing stringent
acceptable levels or spoilage due to lower acceptable levels with a potential cost of product
recall. AQL is an important statistic for companies seeking Six Sigma level of quality control.
(NAMR Senaviratna, 2013)
Failure to meet the requirements of customers with respect to quality is termed as defects. In
practice, there are three categories of defects (NTMA Technology Team, 2014)
Critical Defects:
 Defects, when accepted could lead to harm the users. Such defects are totally unacceptable. It
is defined by 0% AQL
 Major Defects: Defects usually not acceptable by the end users, as it is likely to result in
failure. The AQL for major defect is 2.5%
 Minor Defects: Defects, which are not likely to reduce materially the usability of the product
for its intended purpose but slightly differs from specified standards. Some end users still go
ahead and buy such products.

2.11 Root cause analysis

Root cause analysis reminds me of the intriguing mind of a child: Both use common questions
that start with "what," "how" or "why" in an attempt to understand something and uncover
answers. (A, 2016)

Children often satisfy their curiosity as they ask questions to better understand their environment.
You could say that they’re already unknowingly using a simple, yet essential quality tool—five
whys analysis—to clarify their own questions and get to the truth. (Jacobsen, Quality Revolution
Reduces Defects, Drives Sales Growth at 3M, 2010)

If five whys analysis is used in science to achieve a clear objective, the tool can be just as
powerful in the business world as it is for children exploring their own surroundings. As a
practicing Master Back Belt, I often use this technique to successfully arrive at the root causes of
problems. (Davis, 2016)

Five whys analysis is the art of systematically drilling down to a real root cause. It’s a simple, yet
effective way to determine the root causes in almost any situation. Essentially, you can find the
root cause of a problem and show the relationship of causes by repeatedly asking the question,
"Why?" (Jacobsen, Wind Power Company Gets to the Root of an Icy Issue, 2010)
Does this remind you of the lean tool TRIZ, or the theory of inventive problem solving? It
should, because they can complement each other well.
Figure shows a simple example of five whys analysis of "Getting caught speeding on the road."
This particular example captures just one answer for every why question asked. Typically, you
would have more than one answer for every why question, and each one could be subjected to
another why question.

Figure 1 5 why
2.11.1 Fish bone diagram
Variations: cause enumeration diagram, process fishbone, time–delay fishbone, CEDAC (cause–
and–effect diagram with the addition of cards), desired–result fishbone, reverse fishbone
diagram.
The fishbone diagram identifies many possible causes for an effect or problem. It can be used to
structure a brainstorming session. It immediately sorts ideas into useful categories.
Fishbone Diagram Procedure
Agree on a problem statement (effect). Write it at the center right of the flipchart or whiteboard.
Draw a box around it and draw a horizontal arrow running to it.
Brainstorm the major categories of causes of the problem. If this is difficult use generic
headings:
 Methods
 Machines (equipment)
 People (manpower)
 Materials
 Measurement
Write the categories of causes as branches from the main arrow.
Brainstorm all the possible causes of the problem. Ask: “Why does this happen?” As each idea is
given, the facilitator writes it as a branch from the appropriate category. Causes can be written in
several places if they relate to several categories.
Again ask “why does this happen?” about each cause. Write sub–causes branching off the
causes. Continue to ask “Why?” and generate deeper levels of causes. Layers of branches
indicate causal relationships. When the group runs out of ideas, focus attention to places on the
chart where ideas are few.

Figure 2 Fish bone diagram example

2.12 Role of a sewing floor supervisor

2.12.1 Discipline in Shop Floor:
Discipline in sewing floor is very important to create good work culture in the company. Like
starting line on time in the morning, switch off sewing machine when there is no work or
operator is not in machine. Operators may not be aware how to behave in the factory floor.
Supervisor is responsible to train such things to their operators and helpers. For example,
operators should keep floor clean, keeps accessories on defined place, and should not talk
unnecessarily with other operators during working hours. (QUEBEC, 2018)
Discipline
 Working within the factory disciplinary procedures
 Dealing with lateness, absenteeism and over-extended breaks.
 Making sure that the members of the section are familiar with the company rules and seeing
that these are obeyed.
 Making recommendation to management on suspension and discharge.
 2.12.2 Style Analysis:
It is essential task for a supervisor to collect sample of the style that is going to be loaded in
his/her line and analyze garment construction and operation details. Supervisor should
completely understand what to be done. In case any confusion s/he should contact to
merchandiser and get clarification. Quality requirement can be discussed with quality team or
merchandiser. Though these things are discussed and clarified in PP meeting, sometimes
everything may not be covered in that meeting. Check what all trims he/she needs to bring from
store prior to line start.
2.12.3 Line Setting:
In line setting, supervisor does sequencing of machine, select most suitable operators from
available operators for each operation. Supervisor stands aside of the operator and instruct to
her/him how to make the operation on first pieces.
2.12.4 Machine Selection:
What sewing machines and equipment should be used for the style and how many machines
should be allocated to a particular operation is decided by line supervisors. Unlike industrial
engineers, supervisor does not able to plan machine requirement in advance but they do it based
on actual requirement to meet the daily production target.
2.12.5 Line Balancing and WIP Control:
Levelling of work load throughout the line is very important to improve capacity (resource)
utilization. No line should have excess work in process as inventory.
2.12.6 Operator Training:
Though companies set up training center for sewing operator training or hire only experienced
operators, supervisors need to train unskilled operators on the job. While a trainee operator is
allocated for an operation and the trainee operator is not confident how to do that job or
hesitating to follow an operation method, supervisor's responsibility is to guide and instruct them
correct method of doing that operation.
2.12.7 Training
 Noting the training needs of the operatives. One or more skills for ordinary operatives must
be agreed with management on the skills inventory.
 Giving instruction, as required, and reporting on the progress made.
 Controlling the trainees on the line.
 Cooperating with the training center on trainees destined for the line.

2.12.8 Meeting Target Production:

Line supervisors are given daily production target based on resources available in a line
(machine and manpower). Supervisor is responsible to produce target quantity at the end of the
day. To meet the target, supervisor need to monitor operators working pace, loading of works,
lost time etc. There might be many reasons for low production. Still supervisor need to find a
way to hit the daily production target.
 2.12.9 Stitching Quality:
Stitching quality of the garment comes from the operators. Though factories involve quality
checkers in the sewing line to control stitching quality, line supervisor is responsible for
producing right quality garments. Supervisors need to maintain low percentage defective rate of
his/her line.

 Checking that work is produced within quality tolerances.

 Inspecting some of the work passed by the examiners, correcting them as necessary and
informing the quality manager of major problems.
 Reporting excessive no. of cloth defects and poor quality from other parts of the factory.

2.12.10 Production Planning

 Planning the allocation of the operatives within the section, in order to balance throughput.
 Ensuring that cut work, garment from another section, thread and trimmings are ordered,
with adequate notice and checks on delivery.
 Recommending people for transfer to other tasks or asking for additional operatives, in order
to maintain manning levels.
 Preparing a chart showing the potential output of each of the operatives for various jobs.

2.12.11 Operatives:
 Recruitment and discharge
 Asking for labour when the need is known, so that replacement can be planned
 Enquiring as to the reasons for resignations and reporting the facts.
2.12.12 Induction
 Giving information to trainees on the garment made and how they are manufactured
 Introducing new employees to the section, factory facilities and rules.
 Ensuring that new starters know the safety rules and obey them.
2.12.13 Utilization:
 Moving operatives about, in order to maintain the section at its highest efficiency.
 Discussing with management, on a daily basis, the movement of people to and from one
section to another in order to cope with absenteeism.
2.12.14 Safety
 Understanding the applications of the factories act.
 Allowing only safe working practices.
 Checking that all machinery in the section is in safe working order or has been checked by a
competent person.
 Sending injured people to the first aid assistant.
 Advising management when to contact the fire brigade or the hospital.
 2.12.15 Labor relations
 Dealing with the personal problems of the section, as far as possible, and passing on to
management only when required.
 Reporting all possible causes of industrial unrest.
 Passing on to the responsible person any official union complaints.

2.13 Role of quality checkers

Quality control inspectors examine products and materials for defects or deviations from
specifications.
Quality control inspectors typically do the following:
 Read specifications
 Monitor operations to ensure that they meet production standards
 Recommend adjustments to the assembly or production process
 Inspect, test, or measure materials or products being produced
 Measure products with rulers, calipers, gauges, or micrometers
 Accept or reject finished items
 Remove all products and materials that fail to meet specifications
 Discuss inspection results with those responsible for products
 Report inspection
Quality control inspectors, for example, ensure that the food or medicine you take will not make
you sick, that your car will run properly, and that your pants will not split the first time you wear
them. These workers monitor quality standards for nearly all manufactured products, including
foods, textiles, clothing, glassware, motor vehicles, electronic components, computers, and
structural steel. Specific job duties vary across the wide range of industries in which these
inspectors work.

Quality control workers rely on a number of tools to do their jobs. Although some still use hand-
held measurement devices, such as calipers and alignment gauges, workers more commonly
operate electronic inspection equipment, such as coordinate-measuring machines (CMMs).
Inspectors testing electrical devices may use voltmeters, ammeters, and ohmmeters to test
potential difference, current flow, and resistance, respectively.
Quality control workers record the results of their inspections through test reports. When they
find defects, inspectors notify supervisors and help to analyze and correct production problems.
In some firms, the inspection process is completely automated, with advanced vision inspection
systems installed at one or several points in the production process. Inspectors in these firms
monitor the equipment, review output, and conduct random product checks.
The following are examples of types of quality control inspectors:
Inspectors mark, tag, or note problems. They may reject defective items outright, send them for
repair, or fix minor problems themselves. If the product is acceptable, the inspector certifies it.
Inspectors may further specialize:
Materials inspectors check products by sight, sound, or feel to locate imperfections such as cuts,
scratches, missing pieces, or crooked seams.
Mechanical inspectors generally verify that parts fit, move correctly, and are properly lubricated.
They may check the pressure of gases and the level of liquids, test the flow of electricity, and
conduct test runs to ensure that machines run properly.
Samplers test or inspect a sample for malfunctions or defects during a batch or production run.
Sorters separate goods according to length, size, fabric type, or color.

Testers repeatedly test existing products or prototypes under real-world conditions. Through
these tests, manufacturers determine how long a product will last, what parts will break down
first, and how to improve durability.

Weighs quantities of materials for use in production.

Quality control inspectors held about 464,300 jobs in 2012. About two-thirds worked in
manufacturing industries.
Work environments vary by industry and establishment size; some inspectors examine similar
products for an entire shift, while others examine a variety of items.
In manufacturing, it is common for most inspectors to remain at a single workstation. Inspectors
in some industries may be on their feet all day and may have to lift heavy items. In other
industries, workers may sit during their shift and read electronic printouts of data.
2.14 Roles and responsibilities of maintenance in sewing floor
The Maintenance Supervisor will review and take corrective action on difficult complaints
regarding maintenance requests. The mechanic will establish work schedules for maintenance
personnel for the most efficient and economical methods in handling maintenance and repair
requests. He or she will estimate man hour allocations and staffing needs for various tasks and
reassign personnel in direct relation to priorities, work schedule, and changes in work conditions.
He or she will confer with the Property and Resident Manager on major operating problems and
will make recommendations for needed changes in the maintenance programs.
Perform repairs in regard to complaints received from residents and keep permanent records of
same by using Eugene Burger Management Corporation work order form.
Complete all preventive maintenance requirements, as outlined on the Preventive Maintenance
Chart, and keep records by up-dating the chart and preventive maintenance.

Measuring length through wheel

In order to prevent the result being distorted when the shaft encoder is driven by a measuring
wheel make sure that the slip is as small as possible. When selecting the tread (surface), take into
account the structure, stretch ability, thickness, and resistance to being carried along of the
material being measured. The slip is also affected by the width of the measuring wheel, the
contact pressure, the tension in the material being measured, and the arc of contact. The arc of
contact should be as large as possible. The wheel bodies are made of cast aluminum or plastic (as
marked). The position of the measuring wheel should be chosen so that the direction of
movement of the material is away from the shaft encoder’s bearing point. (USA Patent No.
US3616541A, 1970)
Thread consumption
Table 3 Thread consumption ratio (COTS, 2018)

Stitch Description Total Thread No. of Needle Looper /

Class Usage (cm per cm Needles Thread Under (incl.
of seam) / Thread % Cover)
Ratio Threads %

301 Lockstitch 2.5 1 50 50

101 Chainstitch 4.0 1 100 0
401 Two Thread 5.5 1 25 75
Chain Stitch
304 Zigzag 7.0 1 50 50
Lockstitch
503 Two Thread 12.0 1 55 45
 Stitch Description Total Thread No. of Needle Looper /
Class Usage (cm per cm Needles Thread Under (incl.
of seam) / Thread % Cover)
Ratio Threads %

Overedge Stitch
504 Three Thread 14.0 1 20 80
Overedge Stitch
512 Four Thread 18.0 2 25 75
Mock Safety
Stitch
516 Five Thread 20.0 2 20 80
Safety Stitch
406 Three Thread 18.0 2 30 70
Covering Stitch
602 Four Thread 25.0 2 20 80
Covering Stitch
605 Five Thread 28.0 3 30 70
Covering Stitch

Encoder
An encoder is a sensor of mechanical motion that generates digital signals in response to motion.
As an electro-mechanical device, an encoder is able to provide motion control system users with
information concerning position, velocity and direction. There are two different types of
encoders: linear and rotary. A linear encoder responds to motion along a path, while a rotary
encoder responds to rotational motion. An encoder is generally categorized by the means of its
output. An incremental encoder generates a train of pulses which can be used to determine
position and speed. An absolute encoder generates unique bit configurations to track positions
directly.

Absolute Encoder
An absolute encoder contains components also found in incremental encoders. They implement a
photodetector and LED light source but instead of a disk with evenly spaced lines on a disc, an
absolute encoder uses a disk with concentric circle patterns.
Absolute encoders utilize stationary mask in between the photodetector and the encoder disk as
shown below. The output signal generated from an absolute encoder is in digital bits which
correspond to a unique position. The bit configuration is produced by the light which is received
by the photodetector when the disk rotates. The light configuration received is translated into
gray code. As a result, each position has its own unique bit configuration.

Figure 3Absolute encoder (anaheimautomation.com, 2018)

Linear Encoder
A linear encoder is a sensor, transducer or reading-head linked to a scale that encodes position.
The sensor reads the scale and converts position into an analog or digital signal that is
transformed into a digital readout. Movement is determined from changes in position with time.
Both optical and magnetic linear encoder types function using this type of method. However, it is
their physical properties which make them different.
Magnetic Rotary Encoder
A magnetic encoder consists of two parts: a rotor and a sensor. The rotor turns with the shaft and
contains alternating evenly spaced north and south poles around its circumference. The sensor
detects these small shifts in the position N>>S and S>>N. There many methods of detecting
magnetic field changes, but the two primary types used in encoders are: Hall Effect and Magneto
resistive. Hall Effect sensors work by detecting a change in voltage by magnetic deflection of
electrons. Magneto resistive sensors detect a change in resistance caused by a magnetic field.

Incremental Encoders
The key components of an incremental encoder are a glass disk, LED (light emitting diode), and
a photo detector. The transparent disk contains opaque sections which are equally spaced to
deflect light while the transparent sections allow light to be passed through below. An optical
encoder utilizes a light emitting diode which shines light through the transparent portions of the
disk. The light that shines through is received by the photo detector which produces an electrical
signal output. (machinedesign.com, 2018)
There are several important criteria involved in selecting the proper encoder:
 Output
 Desired Resolution (CPR)
 Noise and Cable Length
 Index Channel
 Cover/Base
The Arduino UNO is a widely used open-source microcontroller board based on the
ATmega328P microcontroller and developed by Arduino.cc. The board is equipped with sets of
digital and analog input/output (I/O) pins that may be interfaced to various expansion boards
(shields) and other circuits. The board features 14 Digital pins and 6 Analog pins. It is
programmable with the Arduino IDE (Integrated Development Environment) via a type B USB
cable.

Figure 4 Arduino UNO

Technical specifications
 Microcontroller: ATmega328P
 Operating Voltage: 5v
 Input Voltage: 7-20v
 Digital I/O Pins: 14 (of which 6 provide PWM output)
 Analog Input Pins: 6
 DC Current per I/O Pin: 20 mA
 DC Current for 3.3V Pin: 50 mA
  Flash Memory: 32 KB of which 0.5 KB used by bootloader
 SRAM: 2 KB
 EEPROM: 1 KB
 Clock Speed: 16 MHz
 Length: 68.6 mm
 Width: 53.4 mm
 Weight: 25 g

3 Analysis of literature
After going through various researches, it was found that there is always demand for higher
value at lower price and we cannot neglect the fact that rework add costs. But, being a labor-
oriented industry defects are produced in garments which lead to rework and reduce the quality
and productivity of manufacturing units. To minimize rework and improve quality, there is a
need to make people accountable for the defects.

4 Need of the research

 The current defect percentage is 14%
 To make cooperators and checkers responsible for the defects to avoid ambiguity

5 Research Questions:
 What are the defects occurring the most?
 Why is reducing defects important?
 What are the role of different people involved?
 What are the causes for the defects?
 How can defects be reduced?

6 Research objective:

6.1 Primary objective:

o To reduce the number of defects

6.2 Secondary objective:

o To identify scope of improvement in existing quality monitoring processes

o To identify the people creating and passing defects
o To develop a device which can control the broken stitch

7 Research design
This research study is exploratory in nature which with due course of time is converted to
descriptive research design to quantify the various parameters.
The first and second point of the secondary objective demands the use of primary data collection
tools such as interview surveys so as to understand the monitoring process level of acceptability
of making people accountable for the creation of defects over the existing model. This thus,
states the used of exploratory research design.

The second and third objectives deals with using data analysis tool to evaluate motivation due to
learning and performance, using both qualitative and quantitative data on the same target
population before and after implementation of the gamified module. Thus, longitudinal research
design is used so as to compare the co-relation factor and measure its effectiveness.

7.1 Research tools used:

Table 4 Tools used

Nature of data Tools used

Task analysis data Measure of central tendency and deviation
Root cause analysis Pareto charts, checklists, Ishikawa
Test of method effectiveness Measure of central tendency and deviation

7.2 Research methods and techniques

Table 5 Research methodology

Sl. Research process Method/ Type Techniques/ Source

No. flow
1 Literature review Secondary research Journals, reports, websites, books,
GP reports
2 Data collection to Identify the loopholes in the Interview with the quality manager
study and analyze existing quality monitoring
the defects system
Identifying the major defects Data from quality department

3 Identifying the Analyze available documents Defect reports and other

factors responsible documents.
for defects Interaction with QC, supervisor  
& maintenance in charge

Root cause analysis Ishikawa diagram & 5 why?

4 Identifying the Identifying Processes Discussion with quality team and

flow of the defects managements.
 through sewing Recognizing any variation in
and finishing floor process i.e. Non-standardized
process
Developing plan for reduction
for defects
Assessing SOPs and any
standardization procedure
followed such as GSD
Preparing checklists for defect
reduction

5 Implementation Defining champions for the Analyzing the role in organization

defects
Conducting meetings  

6 results Analyzing the effectiveness of Comparison of the reports pre-

the manual system implementation to
postimplementation
8 Evaluate the On-field observation, recording Comparison of the reports pre-
effective and survey implementation to
implementation postimplementation
9 Continuous Stating list of improvements Customer satisfaction officer
monitoring taking in account employee check sheets/acceptable quality
feedback level /pareto chart/data comparison

8 Data collection and Analysis

From our own observation and data given by the management level we saw that there are
different types of defects occurred in the production lines. These defects cause reworks and
rejection which leads to time waste and decrease in productivity. By concentrating on those
few repetitive defects in particular positions, most of the defects can be minimized. So, with
this respect, we have tried to identify those particular defects and positions using Pareto
Analysis. Then we have analyzed the causes of those defects and constructed Cause-Effect
diagrams.
For our research work we have collected previous year’s defect data from management
months starting from January 2017 to December 2017. The data has been taken from ten
production lines of sewing section during the production.
8.1 Study of defects
The initial part of the project started with the study of defects in Casual Shirt Manufacturing
Unit. Various type of defects was studied and Classified into section wise:
 Back
 Front
 Collar
 Cuff
 Sleeve
  Assembly
The various defects were found some of them are listed down under respective section wise:

Back Section
Yoke Top Stitch Broken Stitch
Label Broken Stitch
Yoke t/s open stitch/in –complete stitch
Label attach open
Yoke T/S joint stitch
Yoke t/s uneven width
Back box pleat piping uneven
Loop uneven
Insecure Back Yoke Stitching
Yoke Top Stitch Loose Stitch
Back Yoke T/S Down Stitch
Label Down Stitch
Yoke Top Stitch Skip Stitch
Yoke attach skip stitch
Back Yoke Raw edge
Yoke T/S Puckering
Yoke attach puckering
Yoke T/S piping
Back pleat straight line off
Locker loop hi-low
Back yoke Straight Line Out
Back Yoke to Body Hi-low
Label Center Out
Yoke and label gap uneven
Patch attach slant
Loop Attach Slant
Yoke & Label Gap Uneven
Loop Attach Centre Out
Wrong label
Label reverse attach
Label Size Jump
Yoke Attach Reverse
Label Margin Cover
Back Pleat Box Shape Off

Front Section
Front Placket (Kansai) Broken Stitch
Right Placket Broken Stitch
Front Yoke Broken Stitch
Pocket Broken Stitch
Pocket button hole broken
Pocket label stitch open
Front placket(kansai) open stitch
Right placket open seam
Left placket open seam
Pocket Top Stitch Uneven
Pocket Flap T/S Uneven Width
Right Placket Hem Width Uneven
Front Placket (Kansai) Hem Width Un-even
Pocket Top Stitch joint stitch
Pocket flap t/s joint stitch
Front Placket (Kansai) Loose stitch
Pocket Down Stitch
Flap attach down stitch/visible stitch
Front Placket (Kansai) Down Stitch
Right Placket Down Stitch
Left Placket Down Stitch
Front Yoke Down Stitch
Front Placket (Kansai) Skip
Front Right placket skip stitch
Left placket skip
Front Yoke /Panel Raw-edge
Pocket Raw Edge
Front Yoke Puckering
Pocket Attaching pleat
Patch pleat
Front Yoke pleat
Pocket Attaching piping
Tab Label piping
Patch piping
Front Left Placket piping
Front Right Placket piping
Front Placket (Kansai) piping
Front Yoke piping
Yoke attach piping
Pocket attaching piping
Piping at Pocket flap
Front Placket (Kansai) Feature Line Out
Front Right Placket Feature Line Out
Right Placket Line Mis-match
Left placket line mismatch
Front Yoke Hi-low
Front yoke line balancing out
Right placket hem width uneven
Left placket hem width uneven
Pocket line mismatch
Front placket Buttonhole Centre-out
Pocket flap pairing off
Metal Badge Slant
Embroidery Slant @ Pocket/ Body
Care Label Placement Off/Reverse
Flap Attach Slant
Label margin cover
Pocket hi-low
Pocket to flap gap uneven
Fit Label Center-off/Slant
Label Slant
Tab Label Slant
Pocket to Flap Gap Uneven
Slanted Pocket
Incorrect Pocket Position
Incorrect Position of Pocket Flap
Unmatched Join Stitching
Buttonhole Centre-out
Patch up &down/uneven
Pocket box uneven /up &down
Care label off placement
Unaligned Front Pockets (Hi-low Pocket)/slant
Care Label Size Jump
Care label wrong direction
Pocket/Flap Shape Off
Pocket top stitch pointed
Poorly Shaped Pocket Corner
Packet Label Missing
Pocket missing
Tab Label Missing
Gusset Missing
Label Missing
Wash Care Label Missing
Front placket button hole missing
Bar tack missing/slanted/high-low/uneven
Pocket Top Stitch Missing
Pointed Missing
Pocket label missing
Flap Button Hole Missing

Collar section

Collar Top/ Band Hem Broken Stitch

Collar point open stitch
Collar Top/ Band Hem Open Stitch
Saddle stitch open
Pick open
Collar edge stitch open
Neck tacking open
Collar Top Stitch joint stitch
Collar band top stitch joint stitch
Tape Width Uneven
Collar T/S Uneven
Collar points uneven
Collar bone stitch uneven
Neck/Hem Band Width Uneven Stitch
Collar Attaching Loose Stitch
Collar Down Stitch
Collar edge stitch down
Collar band down stitch
Saddle Stitch Skip Stitch
Collar Attach Raw Edge
Collar Attaching pleat
Collar Attaching piping/lipping
Piping at insert collar or band
Collar Feature Line Out
Collar Line Balancing Off
Pick high-low
Collar Edge Cutting Margin Uneven/Problem
Loop Attach Slant/ center out
Neck Band Line Balancing Off
Tape Attaching Uneven/Slant
Collar Button Hole Centre Off
Loop Attach Slant/Centre
Loop Attach Centre Out
Collar Middle Out
Collar Point Blunt/ flit
Pick Shape Off
Pick High-low
Collarbone S /Patch /Up & Down
Collar bar tack missing
Collar button hole missing
Loop Missing
Locker loop missing

Cuff

Cuff Hem Broken

Cuff Pointed Broken Stitch
Cuff t/s incomplete stitch /overlap
Cuff hem open seam
Cuff incomplete stitch
Cuff run stitch open
Cuff Hem Width Uneven Stitch
Cuff t/s uneven
Cuff pointed down stitch
Cuff loose stitch
Cuff looseness
Cuff Straight Line Out
Cuff Pairing Out
Cuff Attaching Line Out
Cuff Feature Line Out
Cuff buttonhole center out/high-low/pairing off
Cuff edge cutting margin out
Cuff button hole slant
Cuff Shape Off/Point Blunt
Overlapping at Cuff
Skip stitch at cuff

Sleeve

Sleeve Placket Broken Stitch/Open Seam

Sleeve Binding Broken Stitch/Open Seam
Sleeve Placket Buttonhole Broken
Sleeve Bar Tack Broken
Sleeve attachment Joint Stitch
Sleeve placket edge stitch joint stitch
Sleeve Hem Width Uneven
Sleeve Placket Box Uneven
Uneven Sleeve Placket Length
Sleeve placket inside box gaps uneven
Sleeve Placket Down Stitch
Sleeve Binding Down Stitch
Sleeve Tab Down Stitch
Sleeve edge stitch down
Sleeve hem down stitch
Sleeve placket puckering
Sleeve placket raw edge
Sleeve Placket pleat
Sleeve hem pleat
Sleeve Binding pleat
Sleeve Placket piping
Sleeve Binding piping
Sleeve hem piping
Sleeve Placket Buttonhole Centre Out /high –low/pairing
Sleeve Placket Line Mismatch
Sleeve Tab Pairing off
Sleeve Placket Pairing Off
Sleeve placket straight line out
Sleeve Placket Box Hi-low
Sleeve Bar tack high-low
Uneven Sleeve Placket Width
Sleeve placket inside box gaps up down
Sleeve placket slant
Sleeve Placket Buttonhole margin uneven
Sleeve Bar Tack Slant
Sleeve Placket Inside Box Gaps Up Down/Uneven
Sleeve Box Up and Down
Sleeve Placket/Binding Reverse Attach
Sleeve Placket Slant
Sleeve Box Shape Off
V Shape Off
Sleeve Placket Button Hole Missing
Sleeve taking missing
Sleeve Bar Tack Missing

Assembly

Side Seam Broken Stitch

Bottom Hem Broken Stitch
Joint Shoulder Broken Stitch
Armhole Broken Stitch
Gusset attaches open
Cuff T/S joint stitch
Bottom Hem Joint Stitch
Join Shoulder T/S joint stitch
Sleeve Hem Width Uneven
Side Seam Uneven Stitch
Join Shoulder T/S Uneven
Bottom Hem Width Uneven
Armhole Topstitch Uneven
Uneven Darts Width
Insecure Button Stitching
Snap to Stud Holding Strength Low
Poor Snap Attaching
Snap to Stud Holding Strength Low
Side Seam loose stitch
Sleeve Attaching Loose Stitch
Joint Shoulder Loose Stitch
Armhole loose Stitch
Armhole Down Stitch
Join Shoulder Down Stitch
Side Seam Down Stitch
Cuff Attaching Down Stitch
Bottom Hem Down Stitch
Gusset Down Stitch
Side Seam Skip stitch
Sleeve Attaching Skip Stitch
Joint Shoulder Skip Stitch
Armhole skip Stitch
Cuff Attaching Raw edge
Armhole Raw edge
Sleeve attaching raw edge
Raw edge At Sleeve Placket
Side Seam Raw edge
Bottom Hem Raw edge
Gusset Raw edge
Armhole Puckering
Side Seam Puckering
Cuff Attaching Puckering
Cuff Inside Puckering
Bottom Hem Puckering
Sleeve attaching puckering
Join shoulder puckering
Armhole pleat
Side Seam pleat
Cuff Attaching pleat
Bottom Hem pleat
Armhole piping
Side Seam piping
Sleeve attaching piping
Tab label piping
Cuff Attaching piping
Piping at cuff pressing
Cuff Inside piping
Bottom Hem piping
Bottom Hem piping
Gusset uneven /pairing off
Bottom Hem Line Out
Patch Attach Hi-low
Side Seam Join Hi-low
Cuff Hi-low
Bottom Hem Hi-low
Gusset Hi Low
Unaligned Button and Button Hole
Misplaced Button and Button Hole
Snap/Stud Misplaced
8.2 Daily reports of End Line Checkers

End Line checker

Report is made by end line checker on hourly basis .

100 % of stitched pieces are checked.
Mainly stitching defects are checked.
Report is submitted to Q.c.
Defective pieces are kept side for alterations.

Quality checker

If the issue is not solved by Q.C. then quality in charge is involved in finding
solutions for it.
If operators are found repeating the same problem then actions are taken by
quality in charge.
It is signed by quality in charge and submitted to quality department. If the
problem is not solved by the Q.C. then quality in charge is informed for the issue
solution.

Quality in charge

According to the report the operators making defective pieces are identified and
after finding root cause of the problem the issue is solved.
Report is crosschecked by Q.C.
Random pieces of passed pieces by the end line checkers are checked.
Mainly stitching defects are checked.
Checkers audit report is made on the basis of it.
If defects are found more the AQL then end line checker is told to recheck the
bundles.
Report is submitted to the quality in charge (parts).
If the problem is not solved by the Q.C. then quality in charge is informed for the
issue solution.
File report Quality department

Report are finally submitted in the quality inspection report file in quality
department
On the basis of this report week wise , month wise DHU is calculated and graphs
of defects with frequency is made on excel sheet.
DHU report and graphs are mailed to quality head , quality manager, factory
manager.

Upper level management

A meeting with Q.C. , supervisor ,production manager, Quality head, Quality

manager, Factory manager, Production manager is organized every week for the
discussion on DHU reports and graphs for finding root cause and solutions
On the basis of DHU report and graphs a list of most occurring defects is made.
Preventive action for upcoming duration is taken place to reduce the defects
listed.
In this weekly factory review meeting they discuss on what was the status of the
factory in the last week and how they can improve it by setting a target
Figure 5 Front section Endline Report
Figure 6 Sleeve Section End Line Report
Figure 7 Back section End line report
Figure 8 Collar Section End Line Report
Figure 9 Cuff section End Line Report
Figure 10 Assembly End Line Report
End line examiner audit report

Quality Controler

Report is made by inline Q.C.

Random bundle of passed pieces by end line checker is checked.
Mainly stitching defects are checked.
Report is submitted to Quality in charge.
If defects are found more the AQL then end line checker is told to recheck the
bundles.

Quality in charge

If end line checkers are found repeating the same problem then actions are taken
by quality in charge.
Report is approved by quality in charge only after confirmation that pieces are
rechecked.
It is signed by quality in charge and submitted to quality department.

File Report Quality department

Report is finally submitted in the sewing inspection report file in quality

department
No further reporting, but are kept for future record reference.
Figure 11 Checker Audit Report
Sewing inspection report

Quality Controller

Report is made by inline Q.C.

Daily 3 times checking
operator wise
Random 10 pcs
Recheck for the operators found with defective pieces
Checking for style details is also done
Based on this Right first time graph is made operator wise
And based on Right First Time graph incentives are provided to the operator.
Train the operator found with defective pieces.

Quality in charge

Report is approved by quality in charge

Look after any major problems and give their solutions.
If operators creating problems are corrected then the report is approved by him.

File report Quality department

Report is finally submitted in the sewing inspection report file in quality

department
No further reporting.
Figure 12 Sewing Inspection Report (Front & Back)
Figure 13 End line AQL Audit Report Assembly
Trim & exam Checker’s audit report (finishing)

Quality Controller

Report is made by inline Q.C.

Random bundle of passed pieces by end line checker is checked.
Mainly stitching defects are checked.
Report is submitted to Quality in charge.
If defects are found more the AQL then end line checker is told to recheck the
bundles.

Quality in charge

Report is approved by quality in charge only after confirmation that pieces are
rechecked.
If end line checkers are found repeating the same problem then actions are taken
by quality in charge.
It is submitted to quality department.

File report Quality department

Report is finally submitted in the sewing inspection report file in quality

department
No further reporting, but are kept for future record reference.
Figure 14 Trim and Exam Inspection Report
8.3 Defect analysis of previous year (2017): -

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 139607

  JAN
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 520
Armhole broken stitch 427
Collar broken stitch 316
Bottom hem broken stitch 375
Cuff broken stitch 254
Front placket broken stitch 551
Broken stitch at collar t/s 304
Pocket broken stitch 49
Sleeve hem broken 283
Yoke T/S broken stitch 248
Join shoulder broken stitch 131
Slv placket broken stitch 317
Cuff hem broken 287
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 31
Buttonhole broken 59
Slv button hole Broken 42
Collar Button hole broken 0
Patch broken 0
Gussets Broken 11
Cuff t/s Broken 66
button broken 22
dat t/s broken stitch 18
cuff t/s broken 0
Bar tack Broken  
TOTAL 4311
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 883
Bottom hem Raw-edge 707
Collar Raw-edge (open seam) 473
Armhole Raw-edge 458
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 357
Gussets Raw-edge 769
Slv placket Raw-edge 156
Collar Raw-edge 279
Front placket Raw-edge 72
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 45
Yoke attach Raw-edge 15
Flap Raw-edge 0
Join shoulder raw edge 41
Loop Raw-edge 3
Pocket Raw-edge 16
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4274
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 321
Cuff attaching down stitch 118
Yoke t/s down stitch 235
Collar down stitch 100
Join shoulder down stitch 127
Slv placket down stitch 168
Bottom hem down stitch 101
slv tab down stitch 18
Gussets Down/Miss 1
Front placket down stitch 0
Armhole down  0
Sleeve hem Down stitch 1
Patch down  0
Pocket down stitch 0
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1190
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 567
Pocket bartack missing 104
collar buttonhole missing 78
Bartack missing 53
Slv placket bartack missing 32
Missing label 59
cuff buttonhole missing 59
Slv Button hole missing 63
Collar down btn hole missing 24
 Button hole missing 80
label missing 0 
label open/missing  0
button missing 18
Pocket missing 3
Gusset missing 1
Back loop missing 9
Fit label missing 0 
Yoke T/S dat missing 1
cuff T/S missing 3
TOTAL 1154
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 465
Armhole Skip 223
Front placket skip stitch 187
Yoke attach skip stitch 9
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 884
Table 6 Jan 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 137457

  FEB
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 490
Armhole broken stitch 312
Collar broken stitch 395
Bottom hem broken stitch 294
Cuff broken stitch 341
Front placket broken stitch 327
Broken stitch at collar t/s 248
Pocket broken stitch 367
Sleeve hem broken 278
Yoke T/S broken stitch 230
Join shoulder broken stitch 175
Slv placket broken stitch 292
Cuff hem broken 267
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 319
Buttonhole broken 46
Slv button hole Broken 25
Collar Button hole broken 30
Patch broken 0
Gusset Broken 59
Cuff t/s Broken 170
button broken 29
dat t/s broken stitch 0
cuff t/s broken 4
Bartack Broken  
TOTAL 4698
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 21
Bottom hem Raw-edge 519
Collar Raw-edge (open seam) 589
Armhole Raw-edge 751
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 431
Gusset Raw-edge 678
Slv Placket Raw-edge 179
Collar Raw-edge 349
Front placket Raw-edge 0
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 0
Yoke attach Raw-edge 11
Flap Raw-edge 456
Join shoulder raw edge 17
Loop Raw-edge 32
Pocket Raw-edge 0
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4033
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 145
Cuff attaching down stitch 170
Yoke t/s down stitch 198
Collar down stitch 116
Join shoulder down stitch 113
Slv placket down stitch 159
Bottom hem down stitch 64
slv tab down stitch 6
Gusset Down/Miss 14
Front placket down stitch 3
Armhole down  
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 1
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 989
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 441
Pocket bartack missing 94
collar buttonhole missing 236
Bartack missing 60
Slv placket bartack missing 42
Missing label 47
cuff buttonhole missing 75
Slv Button hole missing 130
Collar down btn hole missing 1
Button hole missing 68
label missing  
label open/missing  
button missing 44
Pocket missing 9
Gusset missing 0
Back loop missing 6
Fit label missing  
Yoke T/S dat missing 2
cuff T/S missing 3
TOTAL 1258
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 431
Armhole Skip 217
Front placket skip stitch 251
Yoke attach skip stitch 1
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
 TOTAL 900
Table 7 Feb 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 150837

  MAR
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 690
Armhole broken stitch 391
Collar broken stitch 280
Bottom hem broken stitch 341
Cuff broken stitch 324
Front placket broken stitch 236
Broken stitch at collar t/s 236
Pocket broken stitch 135
Sleeve hem broken 298
Yoke T/S broken stitch 288
Join shoulder broken stitch 213
Slv placket broken stitch 233
Cuff hem broken 345
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 45
Buttonhole broken 76
Slv button hole Broken 62
Collar Button hole broken 76
Patch broken 0
Gusset Broken 7
Cuff t/s Broken 110
button broken 30
dat t/s broken stitch 42
cuff t/s broken 24
Bartack Broken  
TOTAL 4482
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1147
Bottom hem Raw-edge 773
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 424
Armhole Raw-edge 412
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 564
Gusset Raw-edge 732
Slv Placket Raw-edge 274
Collar Raw-edge 136
Front placket Raw-edge 104
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 36
Yoke attach Raw-edge 117
Flap Raw-edge 3
Join shoulder raw edge 44
Loop Raw-edge 1
Pocket Raw-edge 5
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4772
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 220
Cuff attaching down stitch 169
Yoke t/s down stitch 267
Collar down stitch 105
Join shoulder down stitch 121
Slv placket down stitch 86
Bottom hem down stitch 109
slv tab down stitch 63
Gusset Down/Miss 5
Front placket down stitch 69
Armhole down  
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 1
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1215
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 346
Pocket bartack missing 135
collar buttonhole missing 192
Bartack missing 185
Slv placket bartack missing 66
Missing label 79
cuff buttonhole missing 105
Slv Button hole missing 122
Collar down btn hole missing 46
 Button hole missing 64
label missing 7
label open/missing 81
button missing 24
Pocket missing 17
Gusset missing 0
Back loop missing 1
Fit label missing  
Yoke T/S dat missing 1
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 1471
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 487
Armhole Skip 248
Front placket skip stitch 117
Yoke attach skip stitch 0
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 852
Table 8 Mar 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 134501

  APRIL
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 407
Armhole broken stitch 354
Collar broken stitch 280
Bottom hem broken stitch 202
Cuff broken stitch 345
Front placket broken stitch 255
Broken stitch at collar t/s 281
Pocket broken stitch 239
Sleeve hem broken 245
Yoke T/S broken stitch 212
Join shoulder broken stitch 155
Slv placket broken stitch 260
Cuff hem broken 22
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 106
Buttonhole broken 32
Slv button hole Broken 2
Collar Button hole broken 21
Patch broken 0
Gusset Broken 39
Cuff t/s Broken 102
button broken 15
dat t/s broken stitch 3
cuff t/s broken 0
Bartack Broken  
TOTAL 3577
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1470
Bottom hem Raw-edge 567
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 502
Armhole Raw-edge 389
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 459
Gusset Raw-edge 108
Slv Placket Raw-edge 472
Collar Raw-edge 177
Front placket Raw-edge 34
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 42
Yoke attach Raw-edge 48
Flap Raw-edge 4
Join shoulder raw edge 55
Loop Raw-edge 12
Pocket Raw-edge 1
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4340
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 148
Cuff attaching down stitch 78
Yoke t/s down stitch 234
Collar down stitch 152
Join shoulder down stitch 139
Slv placket down stitch 21
Bottom hem down stitch 59
slv tab down stitch 0
Gusset Down/Miss 10
Front placket down stitch 31
Armhole down  
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 0
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 872
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 89
Pocket bartack missing 153
collar buttonhole missing 134
Bartack missing 102
Slv placket bartack missing 6
Missing label 23
cuff buttonhole missing 56
Slv Button hole missing 24
Collar down btn hole missing 95
Button hole missing 25
label missing 1
label open/missing 24
button missing 31
Pocket missing 13
Gusset missing 61
Back loop missing 3
Fit label missing  
Yoke T/S dat missing 0
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 840
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 376
Armhole Skip 274
Front placket skip stitch 125
Yoke attach skip stitch 19
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
 TOTAL 794
Table 9 Apr 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 163539

  MAY
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 825
Armhole broken stitch 532
Collar broken stitch 314
Bottom hem broken stitch 374
Cuff broken stitch 242
Front placket broken stitch 169
Broken stitch at collar t/s 312
Pocket broken stitch 239
Sleeve hem broken 234
Yoke T/S broken stitch 197
Join shoulder broken stitch 140
Slv placket broken stitch 189
Cuff hem broken 50
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 40
Buttonhole broken 72
Slv button hole Broken 22
Collar Button hole broken 4
Patch broken 0
Gusset Broken 10
Cuff t/s Broken 72
button broken  
dat t/s broken stitch 0
cuff t/s broken 13
Bartack Broken 41
TOTAL 4091
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1086
Bottom hem Raw-edge 594
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 409
Armhole Raw-edge 309
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 386
Gusset Raw-edge 19
Slv Placket Raw-edge 287
Collar Raw-edge 210
Front placket Raw-edge 77
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 23
Yoke attach Raw-edge 67
Flap Raw-edge 0
Join shoulder raw edge 61
Loop Raw-edge 21
Pocket Raw-edge 0
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 3549
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 132
Cuff attaching down stitch 178
Yoke t/s down stitch 114
Collar down stitch 552
Join shoulder down stitch 147
Slv placket down stitch 56
Bottom hem down stitch 163
slv tab down stitch 174
Gusset Down/Miss 4
Front placket down stitch 25
Armhole down  
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 1
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1546
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 12
Pocket bartack missing 35
collar buttonhole missing 6
Bartack missing 8
Slv placket bartack missing 24
Missing label 28
cuff buttonhole missing 32
Slv Button hole missing 29
Collar down btn hole missing 11
 Button hole missing 29
label missing 0
label open/missing 5
button missing 0
Pocket missing 1
Gusset missing 6
Back loop missing 3
Fit label missing  
Yoke T/S dat missing 0
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 229
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 382
Armhole Skip 246
Front placket skip stitch 108
Yoke attach skip stitch 15
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 751
Table 10 May 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 129559

  JUN
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 472
Armhole broken stitch 370
Collar broken stitch 287
Bottom hem broken stitch 456
Cuff broken stitch 432
Front placket broken stitch 346
Broken stitch at collar t/s 260
Pocket broken stitch 304
Sleeve hem broken 228
Yoke T/S broken stitch 178
Join shoulder broken stitch 245
Slv placket broken stitch 235
Cuff hem broken 193
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 156
Buttonhole broken 283
Slv button hole Broken 169
Collar Button hole broken 319
Patch broken 127
Gusset Broken 121
Cuff t/s Broken 19
button broken 49
dat t/s broken stitch 53
cuff t/s broken 0
Bartack Broken 0
TOTAL 5302
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1256
Bottom hem Raw-edge 765
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 498
Armhole Raw-edge 429
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 356
Gusset Raw-edge 11
Slv Placket Raw-edge 287
Collar Raw-edge 286
Front placket Raw-edge 19
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 72
Yoke attach Raw-edge 19
Flap Raw-edge 0
Join shoulder raw edge 16
Loop Raw-edge 4
Pocket Raw-edge 2
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4020
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 247
Cuff attaching down stitch 176
Yoke t/s down stitch 104
Collar down stitch 151
Join shoulder down stitch 130
Slv placket down stitch 50
Bottom hem down stitch 64
slv tab down stitch 48
Gusset Down/Miss 0
Front placket down stitch 14
Armhole down  
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 0
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 984
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 87
Pocket bartack missing 253
collar buttonhole missing 2
Bartack missing 4
Slv placket bartack missing 128
Missing label 46
cuff buttonhole missing 92
Slv Button hole missing 22
Collar down btn hole missing 8
Button hole missing 13
label missing 19
label open/missing 12
button missing 1
Pocket missing 3
Gusset missing 0
Back loop missing 11
Fit label missing  
Yoke T/S dat missing 0
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 701
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 216
Armhole Skip 138
 Front placket skip stitch 228
Yoke attach skip stitch 11
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 593
Table 11 Jun 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 150380

  JULY
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 672
Armhole broken stitch 396
Collar broken stitch 387
Bottom hem broken stitch 489
Cuff broken stitch 312
Front placket broken stitch 356
Broken stitch at collar t/s 277
Pocket broken stitch 211
Sleeve hem broken 272
Yoke T/S broken stitch 194
Join shoulder broken stitch 298
Slv placket broken stitch 143
Cuff hem broken 178
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 263
Buttonhole broken 234
Slv button hole Broken 355
Collar Button hole broken 231
Patch broken 153
Gusset Broken 141
Cuff t/s Broken 1
button broken 85
dat t/s broken stitch 58
cuff t/s broken 0
Bartack Broken 0
TOTAL 5706
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1101
Bottom hem Raw-edge 678
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 436
Armhole Raw-edge 388
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 591
Gusset Raw-edge 364
Slv Placket Raw-edge 260
Collar Raw-edge 171
Front placket Raw-edge 48
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 53
Yoke attach Raw-edge 53
Flap Raw-edge 7
Join shoulder raw edge 43
Loop Raw-edge 10
Pocket Raw-edge 30
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4233
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 267
Cuff attaching down stitch 188
Yoke t/s down stitch 152
Collar down stitch 97
Join shoulder down stitch 111
Slv placket down stitch 178
Bottom hem down stitch 90
slv tab down stitch 57
Gusset Down/Miss 1
Front placket down stitch 17
Armhole down  
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 0
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1158
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 69
Pocket bartack missing 125
collar buttonhole missing 0
Bartack missing 0
 Slv placket bartack missing 233
Missing label 122
cuff buttonhole missing 25
Slv Button hole missing 49
Collar down btn hole missing 2
Button hole missing 8
label missing 0
label open/missing 29
button missing 0
Pocket missing 5
Gusset missing 10
Back loop missing 0
Fit label missing 22
Yoke T/S dat missing 1
cuff T/S missing 4
TOTAL 704
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 178
Armhole Skip 190
Front placket skip stitch 147
Yoke attach skip stitch 14
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 529
Table 12 Jul 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 131802

  AUG
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 563
Armhole broken stitch 348
Collar broken stitch 442
Bottom hem broken stitch 279
Cuff broken stitch 256
Front placket broken stitch 234
Broken stitch at collar t/s 237
Pocket broken stitch 267
Sleeve hem broken 243
Yoke T/S broken stitch 167
Join shoulder broken stitch 198
Slv placket broken stitch 187
Cuff hem broken 113
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 205
Buttonhole broken 300
Slv button hole Broken 308
Collar Button hole broken 187
Patch broken 198
Gusset Broken 102
Cuff t/s Broken 0
button broken 40
dat t/s broken stitch 10
cuff t/s broken 0
Bartack Broken 0
TOTAL 4884
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1434
Bottom hem Raw-edge 613
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 578
Armhole Raw-edge 549
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 424
Gusset Raw-edge 268
Slv Placket Raw-edge 408
Collar Raw-edge 389
Front placket Raw-edge 133
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 53
Yoke attach Raw-edge 34
Flap Raw-edge 0
Join shoulder raw edge 42
Loop Raw-edge 28
Pocket Raw-edge 0
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4953
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 250
Cuff attaching down stitch 219
Yoke t/s down stitch 120
Collar down stitch 150
Join shoulder down stitch 122
Slv placket down stitch 230
Bottom hem down stitch 143
slv tab down stitch 18
Gusset Down/Miss 6
Front placket down stitch 10
Armhole down  
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 1
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1269
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 60
Pocket bartack missing 90
collar buttonhole missing 0
Bartack missing 2
Slv placket bartack missing 42
Missing label 53
cuff buttonhole missing 14
Slv Button hole missing 42
Collar down btn hole missing 22
Button hole missing 8
label missing 1
label open/missing 4
button missing 0
Pocket missing 10
Gusset missing 1
Back loop missing 14
Fit label missing 4
Yoke T/S dat missing 3
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 370
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 503
Armhole Skip 250
 Front placket skip stitch 188
Yoke attach skip stitch 0
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 941
Table 13 Aug 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 125488

  SEP
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 498
Armhole broken stitch 427
Collar broken stitch 287
Bottom hem broken stitch 262
Cuff broken stitch 287
Front placket broken stitch 276
Broken stitch at collar t/s 223
Pocket broken stitch 245
Sleeve hem broken 163
Yoke T/S broken stitch 199
Join shoulder broken stitch 274
Slv placket broken stitch 141
Cuff hem broken 182
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 259
Buttonhole broken 269
Slv button hole Broken 247
Collar Button hole broken 141
Patch broken 233
Gusset Broken 173
Cuff t/s Broken 0
button broken 53
dat t/s broken stitch 81
cuff t/s broken 51
Bartack Broken 0
TOTAL 4971
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1414
Bottom hem Raw-edge 653
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 428
Armhole Raw-edge 322
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 456
Gusset Raw-edge 351
Slv Placket Raw-edge 357
Collar Raw-edge 289
Front placket Raw-edge 45
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 36
Yoke attach Raw-edge 55
Flap Raw-edge 0
Join shoulder raw edge 28
Loop Raw-edge 13
Pocket Raw-edge 2
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4449
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 208
Cuff attaching down stitch 194
Yoke t/s down stitch 128
Collar down stitch 87
Join shoulder down stitch 153
Slv placket down stitch 142
Bottom hem down stitch 113
slv tab down stitch 32
Gusset Down/Miss 42
Front placket down stitch 23
Armhole down 21
Sleeve hem Down stitch 0
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 3
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1146
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 85
Pocket bartack missing 120
collar buttonhole missing 3
Bartack missing 1
Slv placket bartack missing 36
Missing label 106
cuff buttonhole missing 17
Slv Button hole missing 26
Collar down btn hole missing 40
Button hole missing 8
label missing 86
label open/missing 14
button missing 0
Pocket missing 20
Gusset missing 3
Back loop missing 2
Fit label missing 1
Yoke T/S dat missing 5
cuff T/S missing 1
TOTAL 574
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 410
Armhole Skip 207
Front placket skip stitch 144
Yoke attach skip stitch 3
bottom hem skip stitch 11
Join shoulder skip stitch 4
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 779

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 122515

  OCT
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 678
Armhole broken stitch 502
Collar broken stitch 456
Bottom hem broken stitch 188
Cuff broken stitch 312
Front placket broken stitch 247
Broken stitch at collar t/s 353
Pocket broken stitch 369
Sleeve hem broken 242
Yoke T/S broken stitch 334
Join shoulder broken stitch 165
Slv placket broken stitch 117
Cuff hem broken 149
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 179
Buttonhole broken 190
Slv button hole Broken 196
Collar Button hole broken 217
Patch broken 153
Gusset Broken 170
Cuff t/s Broken 6
button broken 41
dat t/s broken stitch 76
cuff t/s broken 26
Bartack Broken 0
TOTAL 5366
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1196
Bottom hem Raw-edge 734
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 489
Armhole Raw-edge 467
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 467
Gusset Raw-edge 367
Slv Placket Raw-edge 380
Collar Raw-edge 352
Front placket Raw-edge 19
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 39
Yoke attach Raw-edge 16
Flap Raw-edge 19
Join shoulder raw edge 47
Loop Raw-edge 8
Pocket Raw-edge 2
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4602
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 218
Cuff attaching down stitch 187
Yoke t/s down stitch 102
Collar down stitch 90
Join shoulder down stitch 175
Slv placket down stitch 79
Bottom hem down stitch 47
slv tab down stitch 19
Gusset Down/Miss 194
Front placket down stitch 32
Armhole down 17
Sleeve hem Down stitch 26
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 1
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1187
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 16
Pocket bartack missing 90
collar buttonhole missing 0
Bartack missing 0
Slv placket bartack missing 12
Missing label 9
cuff buttonhole missing 9
Slv Button hole missing 7
Collar down btn hole missing 15
Button hole missing 3
label missing 24
label open/missing 1
button missing 0
Pocket missing 3
Gusset missing 3
Back loop missing 3
Fit label missing 0
Yoke T/S dat missing 6
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 201
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 326
Armhole Skip 476
 Front placket skip stitch 107
Yoke attach skip stitch 56
bottom hem skip stitch 0
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 965
Table 14 Oct 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 141032

  NOV
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 567
Armhole broken stitch 423
Collar broken stitch 307
Bottom hem broken stitch 534
Cuff broken stitch 310
Front placket broken stitch 248
Broken stitch at collar t/s 260
Pocket broken stitch 393
Sleeve hem broken 237
Yoke T/S broken stitch 370
Join shoulder broken stitch 279
Slv placket broken stitch 118
Cuff hem broken 94
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 86
Buttonhole broken 30
Slv button hole Broken 256
Collar Button hole broken 15
Patch broken 124
Gusset Broken 51
Cuff t/s Broken 189
button broken 0
dat t/s broken stitch 20
cuff t/s broken 0
Bartack Broken 0
TOTAL 4911
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1234
Bottom hem Raw-edge 698
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 532
Armhole Raw-edge 492
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 352
Gusset Raw-edge 234
Slv Placket Raw-edge 549
Collar Raw-edge 251
Front placket Raw-edge 39
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 82
Yoke attach Raw-edge 17
Flap Raw-edge 8
Join shoulder raw edge 36
Loop Raw-edge 11
Pocket Raw-edge 0
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4535
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 210
Cuff attaching down stitch 250
Yoke t/s down stitch 127
Collar down stitch 141
Join shoulder down stitch 196
Slv placket down stitch 101
Bottom hem down stitch 121
slv tab down stitch 17
Gusset Down/Miss 36
Front placket down stitch 30
Armhole down 10
Sleeve hem Down stitch 3
Patch down  
Pocket down stitch 4
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1246
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 3
Pocket bartack missing 25
collar buttonhole missing 89
Bartack missing 38
 Slv placket bartack missing 28
Missing label 4
cuff buttonhole missing 14
Slv Button hole missing 11
Collar down btn hole missing 4
Button hole missing 2
label missing 2
label open/missing 7
button missing 0
Pocket missing 7
Gusset missing 0
Back loop missing 4
Fit label missing 3
Yoke T/S dat missing 4
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 245
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 473
Armhole Skip 277
Front placket skip stitch 167
Yoke attach skip stitch 49
bottom hem skip stitch 20
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 986
Table 15 Nov 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 138374

  DEC
   
Type of Defect BROKEN STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side Seam Broken Stitch 632
Armhole broken stitch 588
Collar broken stitch 467
Bottom hem broken stitch 278
Cuff broken stitch 435
Front placket broken stitch 259
Broken stitch at collar t/s 310
Pocket broken stitch 428
Sleeve hem broken 234
Yoke T/S broken stitch 174
Join shoulder broken stitch 223
Slv placket broken stitch 164
Cuff hem broken 164
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 279
Buttonhole broken 358
Slv button hole Broken 223
Collar Button hole broken 264
Patch broken 150
Gusset Broken 157
Cuff t/s Broken 10
button broken 56
dat t/s broken stitch 55
cuff t/s broken 10
Bartack Broken 18
TOTAL 5936
Type of Defect RAW EDGES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam Raw-edge 1168
Bottom hem Raw-edge 678
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 456
Armhole Raw-edge 478
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 348
Gusset Raw-edge 346
Slv Placket Raw-edge 301
Collar Raw-edge 249
Front placket Raw-edge 19
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 57
Yoke attach Raw-edge 85
Flap Raw-edge 31
Join shoulder raw edge 47
Loop Raw-edge 46
Pocket Raw-edge 17
Pocket attach raw-edge 0
TOTAL 4326
Type of Defect DOWN STITCHES
Area of defect Qty
Side seam down stitch 311
Cuff attaching down stitch 354
Yoke t/s down stitch 143
Collar down stitch 69
Join shoulder down stitch 129
Slv placket down stitch 80
Bottom hem down stitch 125
slv tab down stitch 0
Gusset Down/Miss 72
Front placket down stitch 32
Armhole down 12
Sleeve hem Down stitch 30
Patch down 50
Pocket down stitch 2
Slv hem down stitch 0
TOTAL 1409
  MISSING OPERATIONS
Area of defect Qty
Wash care label missing 9
Pocket bartack missing 97
collar buttonhole missing 337
Bartack missing 248
Slv placket bartack missing 24
Missing label 10
cuff buttonhole missing 87
Slv Button hole missing 2
Collar down btn hole missing 44
Button hole missing 2
label missing 68
label open/missing 0
button missing 0
Pocket missing 5
Gusset missing 0
Back loop missing 6
Fit label missing 0
Yoke T/S dat missing 3
cuff T/S missing 0
TOTAL 942
Type of Defect SKIP STITCH
Area of defect Qty
Side seam skip stitch 581
Armhole Skip 333
 Front placket skip stitch 117
Yoke attach skip stitch 31
bottom hem skip stitch 1
Join shoulder skip stitch 0
cuff skip stitch 0
TOTAL 1063
Table 16 Dec 2017 Defect Report

TOTAL PRODUCTION MONTH WISE 1665091 

Type of Defect  Broken Stitch 
Area of defect   
Side Seam Broken Stitch 7014 12.04%
Armhole broken stitch 5070 8.71%
Collar broken stitch 4218 7.24%
Bottom hem broken stitch 4072 6.99%
Cuff broken stitch 3850 6.61%
Front placket broken stitch 3504 6.02%
Broken stitch at collar t/s 3301 5.67%
Pocket broken stitch 3246 5.57%
Sleeve hem broken 2957 5.08%
Yoke T/S broken stitch 2791 4.79%
Join shoulder broken stitch 2496 4.29%
Slv placket broken stitch 2396 4.11%
Cuff hem broken 2044 3.51%
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 1968 3.38%
Buttonhole broken 1949 3.35%
Slv button hole Broken 1907 3.27%
Collar Button hole broken 1505 2.58%
Patch broken 1138 1.95%
Gusset Broken 1041 1.79%
Cuff t/s Broken 745 1.28%
button broken 420 0.72%
dat t/s broken stitch 416 0.71%
cuff t/s broken 128 0.22%
Bartack Broken 59 0.10%
TOTAL 58235 3.497%
Type of Defect    
Area of defect    
Side seam Raw-edge 13410 0.805%
Bottom hem Raw-edge 7979 0.479%
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 5814 0.349%
Armhole Raw-edge 5444 0.327%
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 5191 0.312%
Gusset Raw-edge 4247 0.255%
Slv Placket Raw-edge 3910 0.235%
Collar Raw-edge 3138 0.188%
Front placket Raw-edge 609 0.037%
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 538 0.032%
Yoke attach Raw-edge 537 0.032%
Flap Raw-edge 528 0.032%
Join shoulder raw edge 477 0.029%
Loop Raw-edge 189 0.011%
Pocket Raw-edge 75 0.005%
Pocket attach raw-edge 0 0.000%
TOTAL 52086 3.128%
Type of Defect    
Area of defect    
Side seam down stitch 2677 0.161%
Cuff attaching down stitch 2281 0.137%
Yoke t/s down stitch 1924 0.116%
Collar down stitch 1810 0.109%
Join shoulder down stitch 1663 0.100%
Slv placket down stitch 1350 0.081%
Bottom hem down stitch 1199 0.072%
slv tab down stitch 452 0.027%
Gusset Down/Miss 385 0.023%
Front placket down stitch 286 0.017%
Armhole down 60 0.004%
Sleeve hem Down stitch 60 0.004%
Patch down 50 0.003%
Pocket down stitch 14 0.001%
Slv hem down stitch 0 0.000%
TOTAL 14211 0.853%
     
Area of defect    
Wash care label missing 1784 0.107%
Pocket bartack missing 1321 0.079%
collar buttonhole missing 1077 0.065%
 Bartack missing 701 0.042%
Slv placket bartack missing 673 0.040%
Missing label 586 0.035%
cuff buttonhole missing 585 0.035%
Slv Button hole missing 527 0.032%
Collar down btn hole missing 312 0.019%
Button hole missing 310 0.019%
label missing 208 0.012%
label open/missing 177 0.011%
button missing 118 0.007%
Pocket missing 96 0.006%
Gusset missing 85 0.005%
Back loop missing 62 0.004%
Fit label missing 30 0.002%
Yoke T/S dat missing 26 0.002%
cuff T/S missing 11 0.001%
TOTAL 8689 0.522%
Type of Defect    
Area of defect    
Side seam skip stitch 4828 0.290%
Armhole Skip 3079 0.185%
Front placket skip stitch 1886 0.113%
Yoke attach skip stitch 208 0.012%
bottom hem skip stitch 32 0.002%
Join shoulder skip stitch 4 0.000%
cuff skip stitch 0 0.000%
TOTAL 10037 0.603%
Table 17 Year 2017 Defect Report
Defect Analysis of 2017 Month wise

Month Total production Total Number of defects Defect Percentage

January 139607 13813 9.89%
February 137457 14878 10.82%
March 150837 13792 9.14%
April 134501 12423 9.24%
May 163539 15166 9.27%
June 129559 13600 10.50%
July 150380 14330 9.53%
 August 131802 15417 11.70%
September 125488 14919 11.89%
October 122515 14321 11.69%
November 141032 13923 9.87%
December 138374 15676 11.33%
Table 18 Month-wise Defect Report
8.4 Pareto Analysis of the defects

Figure 15 Pareto – defects

Miss-
ing Skip Stitch
Op- 7%
era-
tion
6%
Down Stitch Broken Stitch
10% 41%

Rawedge
36%
Observations from Pareto Analysis for Top Defect Positions
 Broken stitch is the most frequent defect with as much as 41% of the total.
 Raw-edge is the second most frequent defect with 36% of the total.
 Among other defects contribution of down stitch is 10%, Skip stitches is 10.04% and
missing is 6%
We need to perform further Pareto Analysis on those top defect positions to identify the vital
few defect types that are responsible for maximum amount of defect.
Pareto Analysis of Top Most Occurring Defects

Production 1665091  
Month    
Broken stitch    
7014 0.42%
Armhole broken stitch 5070 0.30%
Collar broken stitch 4218 0.25%
Bottom hem broken stitch 4072 0.24%
Cuff broken stitch 3850 0.23%
Front placket broken stitch 3504 0.21%
Broken stitch at collar t/s 3301 0.20%
Pocket broken stitch 3246 0.19%
Sleeve hem broken 2957 0.18%
Yoke T/S broken stitch 2791 0.17%
Join shoulder broken stitch 2496 0.15%
Slv placket broken stitch 2396 0.14%
Cuff hem broken 2044 0.12%
Flap broken/in-complete stitch 1968 0.12%
Buttonhole broken 1949 0.12%
Slv button hole Broken 1907 0.11%
Collar Button Hole Broken 1505 0.09%
Patch broken 1138 0.07%
Gusset broken 1041 0.06%
Cuff t/s Broken 745 0.04%
Button broken 420 0.03%
Dat t/s broken stitch 416 0.02%
Cuff t/s broken 128 0.01%
 Bar tack broken 59 0.00%
Table 19 Pareto Analysis of Broken Stitch

Figure 16 Pareto Analysis of Broken Stitch

Observations from the Analysis:
 Armhole broken stitch is the most frequent defect.

Raw-edge    
Side seam Raw-edge 13410 0.81%
Bottom hem Raw-edge 7979 0.48%
Collar Raw-edge(open seam) 5814 0.35%
Armhole Raw-edge 5444 0.33%
Cuff attaching Open seam/raw-edge 5191 0.31%
Gussets Raw-edge 4247 0.26%
Slv placket Raw-edge 3910 0.23%
 Collar Raw-edge 3138 0.19%
Front placket Raw-edge 609 0.04%
Raw-edge at cuff curve shape 538 0.03%
Yoke attach Raw-edge 537 0.03%
Flap Raw-edge 528 0.03%
Join shoulder raw edge 477 0.03%
Loop Raw-edge 189 0.01%
Pocket Raw-edge 75 0.00%
Pocket attach raw-edge 0 0.00%
Table 20 Pareto Analysis of Raw-edge

Figure 17 Pareto Analysis of Raw-edge

Down stitch    
Side seam down stitch 2677 0.16%
Cuff attaching down stitch 2281 0.14%
Yoke t/s down stitch 1924 0.12%
Collar down stitch 1810 0.11%
Join shoulder down stitch 1663 0.10%
 Slv placket down stitch 1350 0.08%
Bottom hem down stitch 1199 0.07%
Slv tab down stitch 452 0.03%
Gussets down/miss 385 0.02%
Front placket down stitch 286 0.02%
Armhole down 60 0.00%
Sleeve hem Down stitch 60 0.00%
Patch down 50 0.00%
Pocket down stitch 14 0.00%
Slv hem down stitch 0 0.00%
Table 21 Pareto Analysis of Down Stitch

Figure 18 Pareto Analysis of Down Stitch

 Missing operation    
Back loop Missing 62 0.00%
Bartack missing 701 0.04%
Button hole missing 310 0.02%
Button missing 118 0.01%
Collar buttonhole missing 1077 0.06%
Collar down btn hole missing 312 0.02%
Cuff buttonhole missing 585 0.04%
Cuff T/S missing 11 0.00%
Fit label missing 30 0.00%
Gusset missing 85 0.01%
Label missing 208 0.01%
Label open/missing 177 0.01%
Missing label 586 0.04%
Pocket bartack missing 1321 0.08%
Pocket missing 96 0.01%
Slv Button hole missing 527 0.03%
Slv placket bartack missing 673 0.04%
Wash care label missing 1784 0.11%
Yoke T/S dat missing 26 0.00%
Table 22 Pareto Analysis Missing Operation
Figure 19 Pareto Analysis of Missing Operation

Skip Stitch    
Side seam skip stitch 4828 0.29%
Armhole Skip 3079 0.18%
Front placket skip stitch 1886 0.11%
Yoke attach skip stitch 208 0.01%
bottom hem skip stitch 32 0.00%
Join shoulder skip stitch 4 0.00%
cuff skip stitch 0 0.00%
Table 23 Pareto Analysis of Skip Stitch
Figure 20 Pareto Analysis of Skip Stitch

After Pareto Analysis it is found that total two types of defect in the identified top defect
positions are responsible for maximum number of defects.

Causes and Cause-Effect Diagram

From Pareto Analysis we have identified top defect positions and by further analyzing we have
also identified top three defect types. These defects are Broken stitches, Raw edges and Down
stitch. By our own observation and data provided by QC supervisors and mechanics from
production lines through checklist we identified the causes for each specific defect types. After
that we have constructed Cause Effect Diagram for each of the defect types using 4M (Man,
Machines, Materials and Methods) bones.
Broken Stitch

4% 4%

9%
35%
Missing backtack
joint Stitches
Excessive abarasion of thresd
17% during wash
Thread Quality
Inappropriate thread tension
Sharpe edges on pressur foot
and throat plate

31%

Figure 21 Broken stitch

Raw edges

Wrong Placement of
7% pieces

24% 38%
Improper Folding

Improper Feeding

31%
Folder

Figure 22 Raw-edge – causes

Down stitches

17%
35% Operator carelessness

20%
presser foot tension

Feed dog Pitch

28%

Fabric material

Figure 23 Down stitch

8.4.1 Ishikawa/ Fishbone diagrams

Figure 24 Ishikawa (Broken Stitch)

Figure 25 Ishikawa (Raw edge)

Figure 26 Ishikawa (Down stitch)

Table 24 Cause and solution- broken stitch

Cause Causes Suggested Solutions

Types
Machine Inappropriate thread tension Tension of the thread properly adjusted.
Needle plate, pressure foot, Inspect the needle point at regular intervals
and check for sharp or burred points.
needle holes may have sharp edges Sharp edges should be removed.
Method Wrong needle size and thread size Needle size and thread size should be
synchronized.
Excessive abrasion or chemical Special care should be taken during
degradation of the thread during washing.
washing
Man Untrained worker Operators should put through training
Operator carelessness Operator should be monitored
Material Weak thread Select good quality thread which is free
from flaws.

Table 25Cause and solution Raw-edge

Cause Causes Suggested Solutions

Types
Machine Pressure foot pressure foot should not stick to the
material
may have sharp edges Sharp edges should be removed.
Man Wrong folder being used Folders for the processes should be defined
Operator carelessness Operator should be monitored
Method Wrong needle size and thread size Needle size and thread size should be
synchronized.
Feeding External pressure should be avoided
Material Margin of allowance Margin of allowance should be balanced

Table 26 Cause and solution- Down stitch

Cause Causes Suggested Solutions

Types
Machine Pressure foot Pressure should be appropriate for the fabric
Man Wrong folder being used Folders for the processes should be defined
Operator carelessness Operator should be monitored
Method Wrong needle size and thread size Needle size and thread size should be
synchronized.
Feeding External pressure should be avoided
From root cause analysis it can be said that operator carelessness is the cause for the major cause
for the defects. Therefore, there should be a monitoring system where the defects can be tracked
back to its origin.
To avoid ambiguity specific people should be made accountable for the defects.
 Team is selected from the production floor
 Each department is allotted a Champion
 Parameter were decided which were causing the defect mainly through Root Cause
analysis.
 Champion are supposed to check few selected parameters on hourly basis to control
the action which are causing defects
 Report is generated on the hourly basis which floor which line is creating more
defects
 Action plan is being made to solve the problem to reduce the occurrence of defects
 On weekly basis meeting with champion is being held to analyze the progress of
project to decide the further more corrective action
 Report of the project is made on the weekly basis and also circulated to the higher
level to update the progress and defect percentage for proper transparency
8.5 Defect flow in Organization

Sub assembly flow of defects

Figure 27 Sub Assembly Flow of Defect

Assembly flow of defects

Figure 28 Assembly Flow of Defect

Finishing flow of defects

Figure 29 Finishing Flow of Defects

Accountability flow

Figure 30 Accountability Flow of Sub Assembly operators

1. Sub Assembly operator creates the defect and are made responsible for creating those
defect
2. Sub Assembly checker are the one to look for the defect created by the operators
3. Daily reporting is done on the basis of previous days defect created
4. Feedback is taken and noted for the problem occurring which in-turns creates the defect
5. Accountability is being analyzed with each bundle having different bar code and which in
turns gives the name of the operator who made these defects
Figure 31 Accountability Flow of Assembly operators
1. Assembly operator creates the defect and are made responsible for creating those defect
2. Assembly checker are the one to look for the defect created by the operators
3. Daily reporting is done on the basis of previous days defect created
4. Feedback is taken and noted for the problem occurring which in-turns creates the defect
5. Accountability is being analyzed with each operation belonging to particular operator line
wise
Figure 32 Accountability Flow of Sub Assembly, Assembly Checker & Operators
1. Sub assembly Checkers passes the defect and are made responsible for passing those
defect
2. Trim and Exam operators are the one to look for the defect passed by the checkers
3. Assembly Checkers passes the defect and are made responsible for passing those
defect
4. Trim and Exam operators are the one to look for the defect passed by the checkers
5. Daily reporting is done on the basis of previous days defect passed by both sub
Assembly and Assembly Checkers
6. Feedback is taken and noted for the problem occurring which in-turns passing the
defect
7. Accountability is being analyzed with each operation belonging to particular operator
Style and line wise
Figure 33 Accountability Flow of Trim and Exam Operators
1. Trim and Exam Operators passes the defect and are made responsible for passing those
defect
2. Final Checking Checkers are the one to look for the defect passed by the Trim and Exam
Operators
3. Daily reporting is done on the basis of previous days defect passed Trim and Exam
Operators
4. Feedback is taken and noted for the problem occurring which in-turns passing the defect
5. Accountability is being analyzed with each operation belonging to particular operator
style line wise
Figure 34 Accountability Flow of Final Checking Checkers
1. Final Checking Checkers passes the defect and are made responsible for passing those
defect
2. Barrier Audit are the one to look for the defect passed by the Final Checking Table
3. Daily reporting is done on the basis of previous days defect passed Final Checking Table
4. Feedback is taken and noted for the problem occurring which in-turns creates the defect
5. Accountability is being analyzed on the basis of style running on each checking table
Feedback Session Photos
Figure 35 Feedback Session Photos 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8

8.5.1 Champion level floor wise

Floor A
 1. Front Section
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Padma
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Savita
ii. Govind
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Sunil
ii. Ramesh
2. Sleeve section
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Madhumita
ii. Ravindra
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Manju
ii. Chandra
iii. Murgesh
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Sunil
ii. Ramesh

Floor B
3. Cuff section
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Kalyani
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Nitesh
ii. Raj Lakshmi
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Raju
ii. Rajesh Babu
4. Collar section
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Jyothi
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Sidhu
ii. Bipin
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Raju
ii. Rajesh Babu
 5. Back section
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Lakshmi
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Dilip
ii. Deepu
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Raju
ii. Rajesh Babu
Floor C (Assembly Floor)
6. Line A
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Lokesh
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Subhash
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Ravi
ii. Shrikant
7. Line B
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Shivraj
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Ramesh
ii. Chandan
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Ravi
ii. Shrikant
8. Line C
a. Quality Controller Champion
i. Padmanath Babu
b. Supervisor Champion
i. Sudhamani
c. Maintenance Champion
i. Ravi
ii. Shrikant

Parameter for Supervisor

1. Backtack setting
2. Zero joint stitch
 3. SPI Setting
4. Right Thread being Used
5. SOP being Followed

Floor -……. Section-………. Name-…………..

4TH 6TH 8TH

SECTION S.NO OPERATION 2ND HOUR
HOUR HOUR HOUR

1 BACKTACK        

ZERO JOINT
SUPERVISOR

2        
STITCH

3 SPI        

RIGHT THREAD
4        
BEING USED
SOP BEING
5        
FOLLOWED

Parameter for Maintenance

1. Backtack Setting
 2. Balanced Stitch
3. Needle Thread Tension
4. Bobbin Thread Tension
5. Pressure Foot Tension

Floor -……. Section-………. Name-…………..

SECTION S.NO OPERATION 2ND HOUR 4TH HOUR 6TH HOUR 8TH HOUR

BACKTACK
1        
SETTING
BALANCED
2        
STITCHES
MAINTENANCE

NEEDLE
3 THREAD        
TENSION
BOBBIN
4 THREAD        
TENSION
PRESSER
5 FOOT        
TENSION

Parameter for the Quality Controller

 1. Number of Broken Stitch
2. Supervisor Report
3. Maintenance Report

Floor -……. Section-………. Name-…………..

2ND 4TH 6TH 8TH

SECTION S.NO OPERATION
HOUR HOUR HOUR HOUR

NO. OF BROKEN
1 STITCHES        
REPORTED

SUPERVISOR'S
QC

2        
REPORT

MAINTENANCE
3        
REPORT
9 Bobbin Thread tracking device
From the root cause analysis, we know that joint stitch is one of the major reasons for the
occurrence of broken stitches. These joint stiches occur when the bobbin thread gets exhausted
during sewing and the operator rather than ripping it tends to stitch on in.
9.1 Development of device
9.1.1 Concept
The thread consumption ratio between bobbin and the needle thread is 1:1(SNLS)
This ratio could be used to measure the approximate thread used while stitching, if the bobbin is
filled with a specific amount of thread then while measuring the needle thread we could give
exact amount of thread left in the bobbin.
Wheel with absolute encoder is used to measure the needle thread. (machinedesign.com, 2018).
The encoder is mounded on an Arduino UNO board through jump wires.
Main components of deceive
 Arduino UNO
 LED
 Jump wires
 Rotary encoder
Wheel specification
Inner wheel= 47 mm

All dimensions are in mm

Figure 36wheel
Outer wheel
Wheel radius = 57mm

All dimensions are in mm

Figure 37outer wheel

Calculation
Thread passed after 1 rotation of the wheel = circumference of the wheel
=29.53cm
Rotary encoder reading = 20
100 tkt thread is taker for the study of the device
Bobbin filled=29 m
For the device to give an alert at 28m the rotary encode reading should be determined
1m =67 Rotary encoder reading
28m = 1876 Rotary encoder reading
So, the device has to alert the operator after crossing 1876 readings
9.2 Arduino UNO Code
enum PinAssignments {
encoderPinA = 2, // right (labeled DT on our decoder, yellow wire)
encoderPinB = 3, // left (labeled CLK on our decoder, green wire)
clearButton = 8 // switch (labeled SW on our decoder, orange wire)
/
};
int led1= 13 ;
volatile unsigned int encoderPos = 0; // a counter for the dial
unsigned int lastReportedPos = 0; // change management
static boolean rotating = false; // debounce management

boolean A_set = false;

boolean B_set = false;

void setup() {

pinMode(encoderPinA, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(encoderPinB, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(clearButton, INPUT_PULLUP);
pinMode(led1, OUTPUT);

attachInterrupt(0, doEncoderA, CHANGE);

attachInterrupt(1, doEncoderB, CHANGE);
Serial.begin(9600); // output
}

void loop() {
rotating = true

if (lastReportedPos != encoderPos) {
Serial.println(encoderPos, DEC);
lastReportedPos = encoderPos;
}
 if (digitalRead(clearButton) == LOW ) {
digitalWrite(led1, LOW);
encoderPos = 0;
} if (encoderPos >=1873
){
digitalWrite(led1, HIGH);
}
}

// Interrupt on A changing state

void doEncoderA() {
// debounce
if (rotating) delay (1); // wait a little until the bouncing is done
// Test transition, did things really change?
if ( digitalRead(encoderPinA) != A_set ) { // debounce once more
A_set = !A_set;
// adjust counter + if A leads B
if ( A_set && !B_set )
encoderPos += 1;

rotating = false;
}
}

// Interrupt on B changing state, same as A above

void doEncoderB() {
if ( rotating ) delay (1);
if ( digitalRead(encoderPinB) != B_set ) {
 B_set = !B_set;
// adjust counter - 1 if B leads A
if ( B_set && !A_set )
encoderPos -= 1;

rotating = false;
}
}

Figure 38 Device Prototype(I)

Figure 39 Device Prototype(II)

 9.2.1 Test run.
Table 27Test run

Observatio Filled Remaining(m Consumed

n (m) ) (m)
1 29 3.2 25.8
2 29 1.75 27.25
3 29 1.6 27.4
4 29 1.9 27.1
5 29 4.1 24.9
6 29 1.5 27.5
7 29 1.65 27.35
8 29 1.95 27.05
9 29 2.1 26.9
10 29 2.5 26.5
11 29 2 27
12 29 1.7 27.3
13 29 1.6 27.4
14 29 1.9 27.1
15 29 1.85 27.15
16 29 2 27
17 29 2 27
18 29 2.1 26.9
19 29 2.2 26.8
20 29 1.9 27.1

9.2.2 Outcome

This this device can update the operator when the bobbin is a about to exhaust.
10 Impact of the project
On comparison, very favorable results were observed as the project had a very effective impact
on defects and reworks reduction and quality improvement as the overall defect percentage got
reduced to 5.39%.

14.00% 13.10%
12.00%
10.00% 8.95%
8.00%
5.76% 5.35%
6.00%
4.00%
2.00%
0.00%
Jan Feb Mar Apr

The before & after comparison of Broken stitch, Raw-edge & Down Stitch is given below for
clear understanding of the impact it had:

4.00%
3.50% 3.34%
3.02%
3.00%
2.50%
2.00%
1.61%
1.50% 1.24%
0.94%
1.00%
0.50% 0.39%

0.00%
Broken Stitch Rawedge Down Stitch

Before After
11 Conclusion
From the overall study done during the project and the outcome, it can be concluded that:
 Even the defects can be reduced in sewing section which accounted to 50%, just by
developing the Right at First time culture and making each and every individual
accountable for making and passing those defects
 Majority of defects coming in sewing section are due to communication gap leading to
trial & error approach; therefore, with adequate knowledge given to operational staff
defect percentage can be reduced, quality can be improved and efficiency can be
increased to better ROI.
 Regular feedback session about the quality and how to encounter the occurring defects
plays a major role in reduction of defects.
 Device will be helpful to track the bobbin thread and to stop before in hand to avoid the
joint stitch or rework to be done when it gets empty in middle of the operation

12 Deliverable of the project

The project will deliver following:
 Regular review of defects in sewing department
 Arrival at causes of defects and then solving them
 Reduction of defects by standardizing the sewing tools as discussed in the project
 Device to track when the bobbin thread is about to empty

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