Weft Knitting

Weft knitting is the simplest method of converting a yarn into fabrics. Weft knitting is a method of
forming a fabric in which the loops are made in horizontal way from a single yarn and intermeshing of
loops take place in a circular or flat form on a crosswise basis. In this method each weft thread is fed,
more or less, at right-angle to direction in which fabric is formed. Each course in a weft knit builds
upon the previous knitted course. Most of the weft knitting is of tubular form. It is possible to knit with
only one thread or cone of yarn, though production demands have resulted in circular weft knitting
machines being manufactured with upto192 threads (feeders).

Types of weft knitting

1. Purl Knit
2. Plain Knit
3. Rib Knit
4. Interlock Knit

Purl Knit
If on both sides of a relaxed weft knitted fabric only reverse stitches are visible, then this is defined as
a purl knitted fabric. Purl fabrics are produced by meshing the stitches in adjacent courses in opposite
directions either by using special latch needles with two needle hooks or by transferring the fabric
from bed to bed between each knitting action. When the fabric is stretched lengthwise, then the face
stitches are visible. The fabric shrinks more in the direction of wales, and once it is released, it relaxes
to hide the face stitches between the courses. The interloping of the stitches of adjacent courses in
opposite directions results in the courses of a purl knitted structure closing up. The structure,
therefore, has a large longitudinal extensibility.

Characteristics
 Slowest of the knitting machines
 Both side similar appearance
 More expensive
 Good stretch in all direction
 Stretches out of shape easily
 Crosswise stretch less than a jersey knit
 Thicker than jersey knits
 Does not curl
 Can be unrove from either end
 Fancy garment parts
Plain Knit
If a weft knitted fabric has one side consisting only of face stitches, and the opposite side consisting of
back stitches, then it is described as a plain knitted fabric. It is also frequently referred to as a single
jersey fabric (single fabric). Plain knitted fabrics are produced by using one linear array of needles. As
such all the stitches are meshed in one direction. These fabrics tend to roll at their edges. They roll
from their technical back towards the technical front at the top and lower edges. They also roll from
their technical front towards the technical back at their selvedges (the self-finished left and right-hand
edges of the fabric). The structure is extensible in both lateral and longitudinal directions, but the
lateral extension is approximately twice that of the longitudinal extension.

Characteristics
 Stretch crosswise and lengthwise
 Stretches more in the crosswise
 Tend to run or ladder if stitch breaks
 Fabric less stable and curls when cut
 Special finishes counteract curling and improve stability
 Highest machine productivity

Rib Knit
If on both sides of a relaxed weft knitted fabric only face stitches are visible, then it is referred to as a
rib knitted fabric. It is produced by meshing the stitches in adjacent wales in opposite directions. This
is achieved by knitting with two needle systems which are placed opposite to one another other. As
such these fabrics are also known as double jersey or double face fabrics. When the fabric is
stretched widthwise, both sides of the fabric show alternately face and reverse stitches in each
course. Once the fabric is released, it shrinks in its width, thus hiding the reverse stitches between the
face stitches. These fabrics do not curl at their edges. The simplest rib structure is 1 x 1 rib shown on
the right (click on a thumbnail to view an interactive 3D image and examine the structure). The
longitudinal extensibility of the rib structure equals that of a plain knitted structure. The geometry of
the yarn path influences the elastic behavior of the knitted structures. The change of direction of the
interloping of the stitches of neighboring wales (cross-over points) results in the wales of a rib knitted
structure closing up. This gives rib structures better widthwise stretch properties than other basic
knitted structures.
Characteristics
 Also called as double jerseys fabric
 Its reversible fabric
 More elastic than jersey knits
 More thicker than jersey knits
 More stretch crosswise than lengthwise
 Edges do not curl
 Very stable
 Running and laddering still a problem
 More expensive to produce
 Next highest machine productivity

Interlock Knit
Interlock knitted structures could be considered as a combination of two rib knitted structures. The
reverse stitches of one rib knitted structure are covered by the face stitches of the second rib knitted
structure. On both sides of the fabric, therefore, only face stitches are visible, and it is difficult to
detect the reverse stitches even when the fabric is stretched width wise. The geometry of the yarn
path influences the stretch behaviour of the knitted fabrics. The change of direction of the meshing of
the stitches in adjacent wales results in the wales of a rib knitted fabric closing up giving it better
stretch properties width wise as opposed to other basic knitted structures. The combination of two rib
knitted structures in the interlock structure gives very little or no room at all for the wales or courses to
close up and therefore the interlock fabrics shows relatively poor stretch properties in both directions.
Characteristics
 Reversible
 It does not curl
 Firmer fabric
 Less extensible as compared to other jersey fabrics
 Heavier and thicker as compare to rib
 It unrove from the course knitted the last
 Costlier fabric
 Better insulator
Warp Knitting
Warp knitting is the least common form of knitting. Instead of the stitches running
horizontally across the knitted piece of fabric, like in weft knitting, they run vertically
down the fabric. They are knitted in continuous widths, meaning that long pieces of
fabric are made and then the garments are cut out, much like it would be done with
a woven piece of fabric. It is the most complex form of knitting; this is why it is
seldom used. Warp knitting requires the use of a machine, it cannot be done by
hand. Warp knitting is generally used for knitting fibres such as Aramid, Carbon and
glass as it puts less pressure on them and uses more careful handling than weft
knitting. It is the fastest method of producing fabrics from yarns as one of the main
differences from weft knitting is that each needle has its own yarn which produces a
zig zag chain, these chains are then all interlinked to produce a fabric, bu this does
mean that the width of the fabric cannot be increased or decreased like it can with
weft knitting. Warp knitting is useful because it can process many different yarns
that regular knitting machines cannot such as staple, filament, combed and carded.
Warp knitting machines can also be used to make pile fabrics.

Properties of Warp Knitting

 Less elastic than weft knitting
 More run resistant than weft knitting
 Denser than weft knitting
 Less likes to become misshapen that weft knitting
 Type and weight of yarn dictates the type of fabric that is produced
 Warm to wear
 Comfortable
 Usually soft and drapey
 Curls at the edges
 Easy to sew