Professional Documents
Culture Documents
THE
BUMPER
Hello ISSUE
2023! Hormone
mapping
28-day
training plan Habit
streaking
20-minute Vitamin
short but sweet vaping...
sweats What wellness
(no gym required) did next
8
Get A-list arms
in just 6 moves
SELF-LOVE
SHORTCUTS
Road-tested by
one cynical writer
JANUARY/FEBRUARY
2023 £5.99
22
Leah
Williamson The Lioness-in-chief opens
up about her struggles with
endometriosis and her duty as a
role model to a generation of girls
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 7
If you do one
thing this month
Microdose
wellness
No, we’re not talking about
that kind of dosing. Rather,
the concept of implementing
small yet effective practices
into your daily routine to
build new habits. Unlike the
infrared saunas all over your
Little changes
social feed, ‘there’s no barrier can lead to
to entry for microdosing big results
wellness’, says Sarah Hays
Coomer, PT and author of
The Habit Trip. Some
priceless suggestions? Keep
a running playlist of mood-
boosting songs. Or, once
a week, curate your social
feeds to follow accounts that
speak to your values. ‘Small
routines can be impactful, as
they reduce the amount of
pain or stress you’re under,
which can significantly
improve your mood, focus
and ability to adapt,’ adds
Coomer. Identify those that
keep you happy and healthy,
then set clear boundaries to
keep them up amid the
grind. So the next time
you’re staying with
a loved one, without
the time, space or
equipment needed for
WORDS: SABRINA TALBERT. PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 9
?!
@ %
#
ASKING FOR
A FRIEND
I could swear
that swearing
helps me lift A molecular
connection
heavier. Is it
all in my head?
Where was Professor
Richard Stephens when you
were being reprimanded by
your PT for dropping a
What’s the oral microbiome?
C-bomb mid-set? Multiple As the gateway to your professor at the bacteria is resilient,
studies conducted by the digestive tract, the oral University of Iowa. Just it reacts quickly to
senior lecturer psychology at microbiome teaches as they help determine certain changes such as
Keele University have found your immune system eye and hair colours, pregnancy. Think of it
that saying your favourite to differentiate between your genetics affect what as your body’s canary in
four-letter word during good and bad bacteria. your microbiome looks the coal mine. Take teens
exercise can improve your As microbiome bacteria like. In fact, ethnicity- who smoke or vape.
pain tolerance. In one study, (oral and gut) develop specific ‘microbial Before they show signs
participants performed much within hours of birth, fingerprints’ may entail of gum disease, their
better on a hand grip exercise the immune system a unique bacteria oral bacteria is similar
and chair press-ups (short but starts to recognise composition that could to that of older people
intense physical tasks) after and memorise them, make you less prone to with the condition, says
letting, ahem, loose. As to allowing the systems to cavities than someone Dr Ganesan, whose lab
what’s fuelling the expletive- codevelop, says Sukirth who has the same is investigating whether
exercise connection? Ganesan, periodontist brushing and flossing oral bacteria also
‘Swearing lets you throw off (a strand of dentistry routine, Dr Ganesan’s indicates metabolic
inhibitions and just go for specialising in bone and research suggests. And syndrome. How’s that
it a bit more, be a little less tissue) and assistant while your mouth for an oral history?
restrained,’ says lead author
Professor Stephens, adding
that the beneficial effects of
swearing are probably rooted
in childhood, when we’re
exposed to them. And when While no one’s disputing that (dBA). Next, opt for vented
it comes to swearing your listening to music or a podcast headphones or earbuds that
way to strength, there’s no can make any activity more don’t tightly seal the ear;
PG version. When Professor enjoyable, constant use of headphones that seal the ear
Stephens and his colleagues
Do headphones your headphones can cause by plugging the canal with tips
instructed participants to damage your permanent damage – and that block airflow dangerously
use fake swear words to help when you experience volume- increase decibel levels, says
with their pain tolerance
hearing? related hearing loss in your Professor Sataloff. Cushioned
(‘twizpipe’ and ‘fouch’ were teens, twenties and thirties, headphones are another good
among the creative choices), you’re stuck with it, says choice – the space between the
they were shown to inspire Robert Sataloff, chair of speaker and the ear canal
humour but had little impact Otolaryngology – Head and helps diminish unpredictable,
on pain compared with Neck Surgery at Drexel echoed sound levels and adds
traditional swear words, University College of comfort. Professor Sataloff also
which increased pain Medicine. Fortunately, you gives the green light to devices
tolerance by 33%. So f**k can prevent this. Start by incorporating volume alerts
it – just do whatever gets keeping your audio at or and those designed not to
you through the next set. below 80 A-weighted decibels exceed 80 dBA. Sound advice.
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 1 3
CORE AND
STABILITY
Don’t take
your eyes off LEVEL
that weight
For an extra
challenge, add a
shoulder press
before lowering
back down
Get up
and go
We can’t promise this move will overhaul
Use your core,
glutes and hips to
drive the kettlebell
(and your torso) up
your energy, but this full-body burner
will add some fire to your core routine
WHY WE LOVE IT: Sick of the same old LIE on your KEEPING your SLOWLY reverse WORK IT IN
ab exercises? We hear you. We love a back with the right arm the movement, Do a six-minute EMOM
classic, but sit-ups can’t hold a candle to kettlebell raised straight and passing back (every minute on the
the quarter get-up. This move – the first towards the the kettlebell through the minute) workout. At the
step in the full-body-burning Turkish get- ceiling in your overhead, push forearm stance, start of the first minute,
up – might seem simple, but it’s spicy. It’ll right hand, through your to return to your do one super-slow rep,
fire up your entire core while also working your right knee right heel and start position. rest for the remainder of
your hips and glutes, says PT Lauren bent and foot left hand to roll That’s 1 rep. the minute. At the start of
Kanski. Did we mention it strengthens planted, your up on to your the next, repeat on the
your shoulders, too? Whether you want left arm and leg left forearm, other side. Alternate sides
to progress to a full Turkish get-up or add flat on the floor. then on to your until the time is up.
a kick to your core routine, you’ll feel more, left hand.
ahem, get-up-and-go with every rep.
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 1 5
H E A LT H • BEAUTY • FITNESS • FASHION
• WEIGHT LOSS • FOOD • SEX
Bringing her
2 2 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
Leah Williamson
24 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 2 5
Leah Williamson
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 3 7
As her
with gorgonzola sauce was set down on the white her account had been suspended. The company was
tablecloth, Carrie Forrest cast a nervous glance around afraid she’d been hacked. Meanwhile, Carrie’s close
the restaurant. She wasn’t famous, at least not in the friends – also vegan – deserted her.
conventional sense; she had a vegan blog with an app ‘I was pretty much alone, except for my husband and
and was successful enough that she’d been flown to my therapist,’ she says. But still, she stood her ground,
Miami to present at a food-blogging conference before eating farm-raised beef, adding chicken to her stir-fries
flying up to New York for another work engagement. and feeling her energy levels stabilise. It was two years
With a master’s degree in nutrition, Carrie knew all before she received the first apology; in an email, a
too well the vital role that protein played, and she ate negative commenter confessed that she, too, had given
plenty of beans and soy. And yet, she was exhausted. up veganism and admitted she’d been too hard on
In fact, she’d been low on energy for months, maybe Carrie. The emails began as a trickle, then turned into
years. She’d switched to a vegan diet in 2010 – inspired a small but steady stream, inspiring Carrie to publish
by the actress Alicia Silverstone, a love of animals a post that remains one of her most popular to date.
and a hope of losing that stubborn 5lb. Giving up meat The title: How To Start Eating Meat Again.
was easy (it was yoghurt that had been hard), but
lately she’d found herself looking longingly at eggs MEAT THE MOMENT
in farmers markets. And by the time she arrived in After at least two decades of being nudged towards
New York, something had shifted. everything plant-based – even hamburger heavyweight
‘I was just like: this isn’t working,’ Carrie, now 47, McDonald’s rolled out a McPlant menu– a small but
recalls, of that trip. ‘I felt ashamed. But I also felt like, growing chorus of researchers and public health
this is my health and I have to make a change.’ She experts are pushing back. It’s not that you must eat
remembers two things about the steak: it was delicious meat; more that it can be difficult to get all the protein
and she couldn’t finish it. The next morning, she woke you need without any animal products in your diet.
feeling ‘energetic’, so she took the leftovers from her ‘Not everyone can sustain a healthy weight, meet
hotel room’s mini fridge and ate them cold. protein and other nutrient needs [such as iron], and
Almost immediately, she began searching for the stay on a vegan diet,’ says Sareen Gropper, a professor
words to communicate her feelings to her audience. of nutrition at Florida Atlantic University, who
And after revising it more than half a dozen times, she generally recommends the Mediterranean diet
hit publish on a post called Why I Am No Longer Vegan, (mostly plant-based foods with plenty of wholegrains,
which included an apology if the headline caused beans and nuts, plus some lean poultry, fish and
‘disappointment, confusion or anger’. Then she held dairy). While Professor Gropper notes that ‘many
her breath. Within hours, she had hundreds of negative people on vegan diets are healthy and meeting all
comments (‘No true vegan would ever “listen to their their nutrient needs’, she adds that vegans can be at
body” and eat animal products,’ wrote one), along with increased risk of suffering from hair loss and general
bad reviews of her app on the app store. So many people fatigue due to protein or iron deficiencies.
unsubscribed from her email list that she received an But first, it’s important to clarify that while plants
auto email from marketing platform MailChimp saying are many wonderful things, most plants are not
3 8 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
Clearing
the air
The belief that
high-protein
diets can cause
kidney problems
in healthy
adults is being
re-examined by
certain experts.
Processing large
amounts of
protein does
not lead to a
decline in kidney
function,
according to
a Journal Of
Nutrition review
of more than
20 studies
involving
hundreds of
participants.
‘This thought
came from the
fact that people
with kidney
failure or
reduced kidney
function are
generally put on
a low-protein
diet in order to
not overburden
the kidneys,’ says
Professor van
Loon. ‘But it’s not
the other way
around. There’s
no evidence
whatsoever.’
Duly noted.
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 3 9
a source of high-quality protein, which is a ‘per meal’ is intentional; you really do need to eat it all
macronutrient that most people still aren’t getting day. ‘The body doesn’t store amino acids,’ says Carol
enough of. Or at least, the right kinds of it at the Johnston, a professor of nutrition at Arizona State
right times. Humans need amino acids, the building University. That means it’s best to have them available
blocks of protein, to mount a response to infection, at any time, so spread your protein throughout the
as well as for just about every structure in the body day (and be sure to have some with breakfast). That
– bone, liver, gut, tissues, hair, nails, skin and yes, may seem easy enough these days, with protein being Proportion of
the one that probably comes to mind first when added to everything from cereal to biscuits and beer. consumers
you think of protein: muscle. But people tend to But not all protein is created equal. who said they
only think of muscle and protein in relation to their Protein is made up of 20 amino acids, 11 that our knew how
fitness, and that’s a mistake,’ says Gabrielle Lyon, bodies make, and nine, called essential amino acids, much protein
founder of the medical practice and education that we can get only from food. In addition to being they’d had in
centre Muscle-Centric Medicine. the foundation of protein, the nine essential aminos the past 24
Over the past 20 years, researchers have come are also signalling molecules. Basically, when you hours. What
to understand that skeletal muscles are endocrine eat them, particularly one called leucine, they start about you?
organs, just like the thyroid. During muscle stimulating protein synthesis. All animal products Source: FMCG
contraction, endocrine organs produce and secrete contain the essential aminos, while many plant Gurus survey
hundreds of small proteins called myokines, proteins are missing at least one (though some are
which can keep inflammation from getting out complete proteins, such as quinoa, soya, chickpeas,
of hand. This is also why being ‘under-muscled’ pistachios, buckwheat, amaranth, hemp seeds
is fast becoming a health issue to watch. But this and spirulina). And if you don’t eat all nine aminos,
conversation isn’t about how much (or little) you nothing happens.
can deadlift in the gym; patients with less muscle ‘You can have, for example, leucine to stimulate the
mass have more complications, longer hospital process,’ says Luc van Loon, professor of the physiology
stays and lower survival rates, according to an of exercise and nutrition at Maastricht University
Annals Of Medicine review of nearly 150 studies. Medical Centre in the Netherlands. ‘But you also need
Plus, ageing bodies process protein less efficiently the bricks to build the house. You can have all the
and need more of it to maintain muscle mass and construction workers present, but if they don’t have
strength, bone health and other vital functions. the bricks, the house is not going to get built.’ (And
‘Start thinking of muscle as a healthy ageing strategy, if you don’t start building the house now, it’s much
suggests Dr Lyon. One way to do that is to focus more difficult to do it later: your twenties, thirties
on high-quality protein, she says, which will help and forties are prime muscle-building years, when
FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA MACK MCCOOL
offer protect from many chronic diseases. you have hormones on your side.)
By the way, these properties (known as ‘anabolic’)
THE ACID HOUSE of amino acids make it critical to keep protein levels
While the recommended daily allowance for protein up even if you’re injured or not able to exercise, which
remains a modest 0.8g per kilogram of body weight, is the other way (besides eating) that your body builds
researchers are now saying we need more like 1.2 to muscle. Take away activity and you’re already losing
1.5g per kilogram to support tissue growth. For most some. Then if you decide to reduce calories because
of us, this amounts to about 30g per meal – and that you’re not moving as much, you’ll lose even more
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 4 1
The
whey
forward
Why is whey in
every protein
powder and
energy bar?
Because when
it’s isolated
– it makes up
20% of cow’s
milk protein –
whey wins the
Most Likely
To Stimulate
Muscle Protein
Synthesis
award. That’s
because whey
is rapidly
digested and
absorbed,
plus it has a
relatively high
amount of
leucine. But
do you need
it? No. ‘The
difference
we see with
consuming
protein via
whey or via
milk is minimal,’
says Professor
van Loon. If
you’re an elite
athlete who
needs every
edge, adding
whey may
matter. But for
the rest of us,
not so much.
4 2 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
There is mounting evidence to suggest the
body clock plays a bigger role in weight
management than previously thought.
WH chews over the science
W O R D S : M E G A N TAT U M
4 4 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
Set a time
to eat
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 4 5
Playing the
protagonist
Embracing the starring role you
play in your own life can lose
you all your friends or be a tool
for self-development. WH
PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES; HERNANDEZ & SOROKINA/STOCKSY UNITED
WORDS:
L I N D S AY G E L L E R
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 5 1
Wellness
curious
Stress
PROBAB LY A STRETCH
In short, the tools release says neuroscientist it’s highly individual.
vibrations that mimic Claudia Aguirre. That
affective touch. Think of said, a vibration could
relief
They boost
a hug or a pat on the back act as a little nudge to muscle recovery
from a loved one. This check in with yourself,
contact communicates adds psychologist Chloe
wearables
WATCH THIS SPACE
safety and trust, which Carmichael. Heart rate variability
helps you bond with others (HRV) measures the
and dials back your fight- They sharpen focus fluctuation in the time
Remind yourself to chill or-flight response. It also between heartbeats, and it
out with these gadgets releases oxytocin, which TRU E , FOR tells you how well your body
There’s no button you can lowers levels of the stress CE RTAIN PEOPLE adapts to change. People
press to banish stress (if we hormone cortisol. The idea Some of these wearables with a high HRV tend to be
find one, we’ll let you know). is that by providing an offer varying vibration less stressed because it
But a host of new wearables experience similar to that intensities and frequencies shows they’re able to cope
promise to offer the next best of a soothing caress, these for different needs, one with life’s inherent insanity.
thing. These devices come devices offer the same kind of them being better Stress relief wearables use
in many forms – headsets, of relaxation you might get concentration. Music and those vibrations to raise
wristbands, speakers – but from a friend comforting sound can elicit different HRV, which supposedly
share a common goal: strap you. The thing is, it’s hard to responses in the brain and improves post-workout
one on and you’ll (allegedly) replicate physical interaction in the heart, and the latter recovery. But changes in
feel your anxiety melt away with a device. If the wearable tends to sync up with the HRV don’t correlate with
while enjoying a bump in is not at body temperature, rhythm. ‘Some people less muscle damage. And
mental performance. They it’s not going to trigger this might feel like sound and vibrations had no impact
mostly claim to slow your frequency is going to help on HRV at all in one study*.
nervous system response
to induce a feeling of calm.
Find out if the claims stack
up with our breakdown.
WORDS: JACKIE LAM. PHOTOGRAPHY: STOCKSY. *SOURCE: CLINICAL PHYSIOLOGY AND FUNCTIONAL IMAGING
Brain power
The periodic
vibration helps
signal that
it’s time to
take a pause.
Apollo Wearable,
around £355,
Picking up
apolloneuro.com
good vibrations
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 5 5
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6 8 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 6 9
N 2 0 2 2 :
L E A VE I
S TO
THING E , P A S TI ME S
H A T
PEO P L M M E S T
RO G R A
AND P IN U T E S
C IO U S M L
E P R E N D FA I
WAST N ’T H A V E A
D
YO U D O K E G O O
Y O U M A
E L P
TO H R G O AL S.
ON Y O U
That’s why this year’s annual fitness
challenge is made up of express-style
workouts that require 20 minutes or less
but still offer gains and inspiration to
make positive changes. Expertly crafted
by PT Ariel Belgrave, the creator of LEAN
Method fitness and nutrition coaching,
each workout meets you where you are in
your journey – whether you’re looking to
lift heavier, recover from an injury or shake
off newbie nerves – while pushing you to
the next level.
The real gems in this challenge are the
tough-yet-effective compound moves that
work multiple muscle groups and joints at
the same time. And get this: resistance-
training programmes involving multi-joint
exercises (think: a deadlift and row or squat)
are more effective for improving overall
fitness than just doing isolated moves (such
as a basic biceps curl), studies have found.
‘Including these types of exercises in your
plan is a huge win if you’re short on time,
because you’re still able to build lean muscle
mass,’ says Belgrave.
The workouts on these pages include a
quick warm-up and a circuit of five exercises,
which you can do at your own pace (AMRAP-
style – as many reps as possible in the allotted
time). All you need is a set of dumbbells, a mat
and a get-up-and-go attitude to take on a new
training style for the next 28 days. Why 28
days? While you won’t be exercising every
day, dedicating four weeks to a routine is the
sweet spot for building consistency, finessing
form and improving muscular endurance,
notes Belgrave. So lace up your trainers,
grab some dumbbells and gear up for the
next 28. Then… show up again tomorrow.
7 0 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
Think you need
a high-end
studio or a
well-equipped
gym to do an
effective arm
workout? Think
again. Build
strength and
definition with
only a pair
of dumbbells
using this
superset-style
approach
WORDS:
JA M I E S PA N F E L L E R
P H OTO G R A P H Y:
TYLER JOE
STYLING:
ROSE L AUTURE
7 6 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 7 7
Dumbbell
direction
Unsure which
weight to choose?
Follow these rules
to pick like a pro
THEY’RE TOO
LIGHT IF…
…you make it
through an entire
round without
any difficulty.
THEY’RE TOO
HEAVY IF…
…you’re not able
to maintain
proper form and
are maxing out
before the last
couple of reps.
THEY’RE JUST
RIGHT WHEN…
…the last two
reps feel like a big
challenge, leaving
you eager to rest.
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 7 9
SHOULDER
This complex consists of three muscles:
the lateral (in the middle), anterior (on the
front side) and rear (on the back) deltoids.
Your shoulder rotates and is responsible
for your ability to do a range of high-force
movements (such as throwing a ball)
that allow your arms to move on different
planes. A durable, injury-free shoulder
is key to maximising and protecting
your movement patterns.
TRICEPS
A muscle
with three
components
on the back of
the upper arm BICEPS
is the triceps. Made up of two
Ideally, they muscles and located in
should be the forward-facing area
slightly of the upper arms, this is
stronger than the muscle group typically
the biceps to associated with that
avoid elbow IG-worthy flex pose.
injuries that are
common with
an overtrained
forearm.
FOREARM
Strengthening
this is essential
to mastering
racket-sport skills.
‘The forearm is a
huge component
in anything that
requires grip,’
says PT
Anatomy Madeleine Conti.
lesson
Here’s where your
muscle power comes
from in your arms
8 0 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
Strong arm sweat
Complete 8 to 12 reps of each exercise with no breaks within supersets. Rest for 2 mins
after each superset and repeat the circuit three times. Hit it three times a week and
you should witness noticeable change in strength and muscular endurance, says
Isabel Lynn, PT and Barry’s Bootcamp trainer, who built the routine.
B
CR OSS- B O DY CU R L
How to: Stand with your feet
shoulder-width apart. Hold 2
dumbbells with your palms facing B
in, thumbs up (A). Keep your elbows
close to your body as you raise your
right hand diagonally to your left
shoulder (B). Reverse the movement
to return to the start. That’s 1 rep.
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 8 1
rollers
Whether working up a sweat
or cheering courtside, these
will lift your athleisure game
PHOTOGRAPHY
STEVEN CHEE
STYLING
TESSA LAW
SHIRT, AJE;
TOP, MATTEAU;
TROUSERS,
GINGER & SMART
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 8 3
8 4 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
FAR LEFT: TOP,
MATTEAU;
TROUSERS AND
BIKE SHORTS LEFT: TOP AND
(JUST SEEN), TRACKSUIT BOTTOMS,
BOTH AJE BOTH AJE
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 8 5
8 6 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
NAGNATA
BOTTOMS, BOTH
TOP AND
TRACKSUIT
HAIR AND MAKE-UP: JOEL PHILLIPS. MODELS: MIA JOVANOV AT PRISCILLAS AND EMMA M AT CHIC MANAGEMENT
DENIM JACKET,
CALVIN KLEIN;
CARDIGAN,
CLAUDIE
PIERLOT; TOP
AND SHORTS,
BOTH NAGNATA;
SOCKS,
STYLIST’S OWN;
TRAINERS, NIKE
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 8 7
Aroma
therapy
Whether your sense of smell
has been ghosting you since
you had Covid or you want to
develop a nose for excellence,
smell training is here to help.
WH sniffs out the science
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 9 3
Deja Riley
LULULEMON
AMBASSADOR AND
FITNESS EXPERT
When Riley leads a class,
she wants to do it in style,
which is why she almost
always wears her hair in
box braids that are pulled
away from her face. ‘I love
having length because
I want my hair moving
with me,’ she says.
A quick peek at her IG
(@dejariley) proves the
effect is quite dazzling.
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 9 9
Claire Jones
SOULCYCLE
INSTRUCTOR
AND MUSICIAN
‘I like the freedom of not
having to get up and
spend an hour on my
hair every morning
before I sweat it out,’
says Jones, whose busy
calendar finds her
dashing from SoulCycle
studio to recording
studio. ‘My natural hair
is under these passion
twists, so I can be myself
without damaging it.’
VEST, AMERICAN
EAGLE; EARRINGS,
BAR JEWELLERY;
NECKLACE,
JONES’S OWN
These twists
look even
better with
a little wear’
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 1 0 1
Ashley
Mayeux
DANCER
Mayeux’s locs (styled
here in Bantu knots)
work for her go-go-go
schedule. ‘We change
our style many times for
different ballets and
characters, and it’s easy
to put my hair up and
go when I only have
15 minutes to switch
looks,’ she says.
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I think my
locs speak
to the fact
that I’m a
free spirit’
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 1 0 3
Products
that
Locs
HAIR: CASSANDRA NORMIL FOR THE VISIONARIES AGENCY. MAKE-UP: TODD HARRIS FOR HONEY ARTISTS. MANICURE: SHIRLEY CHENG FOR SEE MANAGEMENT
Though hair isn’t tucked away or covered by a wig or weave, this style, in which
multiple strands are twisted and locked together, also prevents overstyling so that
you can retain length. Pre-twisted faux locs, which are temporary and therefore
lower commitment, can also be attached to natural hair with a crochet hook.
SOOTHING SERUM
1 0 4 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
DRESS, SER.O.YA;
EARRINGS, MISSOMA
Jasmine Thomas
ATHLETE, LGBTQI+ ADVOCATE
AND ENTREPRENEUR
Thomas loves her natural hair but
admits it only holds a style when
she’s not sweating – a rarity, as
she’s usually on the basketball court
or at the gym. The happy medium:
‘I like wearing braids and faux locs
where I can let my roots be in their
normal fuzzy state,’ says Thomas.
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 1 0 5
Are refills
the future
of beauty?
ise,
r
the tives
n ia
is o init lly?
s l
u ct refil rea
d it
p ro heir t is
t
u ty ing . Bu AM
a n in H
r be itio y w UR
C
u s it B
yo s po abil LOE
g d n H
usin ran stai DS C
Re ith b a su OR
w a s W
1 0 8 | J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3
Grass ceiling
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 1 2 3
HEAL THE BEAT
PHOTOG R APHY
Martin Rusch
ST YLING
Kristen Saladino
U I
ADDITIONAL REPORTING: ADDISON ALOIAN; NAYDELINE MEJIA; AMANDA LUCCI; JAMIE SPANFELLER. MODEL: KELSEE FOR STETTS
Whether you’re
crunching, crying or
commuting, there’s
TO
a strong chance
O R
music is playing a
role. But sound is
also a science-
backed tool
that can be used
for everything
from meeting
R
performance goals
to regulating your
emotions. Listen up
E
J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 3 | 1 3 9
in forming your individuality as you grow
MY VOICE
twice a week, learning to talk again, to
manipulate space in my mouth and massage
neck muscles I didn’t know existed. I cried.
I did embarrassing vocal exercises in my
AGAIN
university halls. I gave up coffee, dairy and
loud restaurants. I stopped talking at parties
and took time off from my beloved a
cappella group. Socialising – something
When a voice disorder meant that WH editor I loved – was too stressful. My boyfriend
CURRIE ENGEL was unable to sing or talk started associating me with the smell of
properly, she realised just how much her the cough drops I kept in my pockets.
own ‘music’ was connected to who she was My voice was everything. And for a few
years, it was broken, unrecognisable. The
music was gone. I didn’t know who I was
I’ve been a singer all my life. experts believe official numbers without it, and it took a huge toll on my
Music, to me, has always been are drastic underestimates, as so mental health. I stayed home. I’d get deeply
something personal and creative. many people simply live with anxious before big social events, afraid my
For a long time, I was, in a sense, poor voice quality. voice would betray me. Watching people
my own source of the ‘music’ in Music isn’t just instruments and sing freely, happily, without pain, was
my life. It was how I identified headphones. Our voices are our torture. I was haunted by the loss.
with memories, other people music, the melody we listen to most This is not uncommon. The psychological
and my family. often – at the gym during a set, toll of an injury like this can be traumatic,
But when I was at university, when we need a surge of energy says Dr Sataloff. ‘Anything that affects the
I developed painful nodules on my before a big presentation, singing voice will affect the psyche. And the sense of
vocal folds from overuse (singing in the car with your best friend. identity loss can make people question the
and socialising took a toll) that A recent study even found that we substance of who they are.’ It’s not just those
turned my confident voice into a have neurons that seem to respond whose professions depend on their voices –
whisper. For three years, I couldn’t selectively to the sound of human singers and teachers, for example – who feel
sing. Doctors said they could song, and others that respond only this, either, says Libby Smith, director of the
operate, but it was a last resort and to the human voice. While this University of Pittsburgh Medical Center’s
might not fix the problem. I didn’t connection is poorly understood, Voice Center and a professor in the
want to risk it. So, my music – and it means a part of your brain lights department of otolaryngology. ‘It’s just as
a big part of myself – was lost. up when you hear people sing. important for the people who want to sing
While it’s thought that 50,000 One thing experts do know for at church or to their grandkids,’ she says.
people are referred by their GPs sure is the role of the maternal After almost two years of therapists and
to otolaryngology – or voice – voice. ‘When you’re born, one of vigilance, I sat with a vocal coach in a studio
clinics in the UK each year, Robert the first things that happens to and eked out the first verse of Amazing
Sataloff, chair of the department you is identifying your mother’s Grace. I choked on the words halfway
of otolaryngology at Drexel voice,’ says Dr Sataloff. ‘The notion through. ‘I once was lost, but now am found,
University College of Medicine of associating voice with identity was blind, but now I see.’ Tears formed.
in Philadelphia, says most is innate.’ It makes sense, then, I had found my sound, my voice, again.
that your voice plays a big role
THE WORD, derived from THE HUMAN response CERTAIN FACTORS THE WAY to induce frisson
the French word for shiver, is stems from your brain. When make sounds threatening. is to ‘increase the riskiness
‘the feeling of chills running up you experience something Unexpected sounds, scream- of the music’, says Professor
and down your spine,’ says alarming, the subcortical areas like sounds, loud sounds, Huron. Think: singers belting
David Huron, professor of react out of fear, then your extensity (how sounds are high notes, distorted electric
music at the Ohio State frontal lobes send inhibitory distributed in space), low pitch guitar and other unexpected
University. Technically, it’s signals to the amygdala, the (associated with aggression), passages, maybe with some
a pilomotor (hair-raising) or part of the brain that processes infrasound (low-pitched felt, surprise notes. So maybe
temperature-controlling fear, to let you know you’re not heard) and acoustic heavy metal – or music you
response to fearful stimuli. safe, says Professor Huron. proximity (closer sounds). don’t typically listen to.
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HEAL THE BEAT
WHOOOO
ARE YOU?
Voice and music
are integral to
identity
ROUTE TO WELLTH
STATS
Sara Pascoe AGE: 41
JOB: Comedian
WORKOUT MO:
The comedian and author, whose latest show explores PT + running
WIND-DOWN
women and success, opens up about becoming a mum
SECRET: Yoga
at 40 and why she’s telling a positive IVF story
Fuel
My husband and I are
bad at shopping – we
use Ocado for baby
stuff, have no food
for us and habitually
Know order basics on
What bothered me in my Deliveroo. My
thirties was not knowing husband says he’ll
if I was going to have kids. batch cook. But,
My worry was: my life is realistically, when
really great now, but I don’t we have free time
want to regret [not being a and a sleeping baby,
mum] when I’m 50. It was we’ll visit our local
like making a hypothetical for some quality time
decision based on a sadness (and a glass of red).
I hadn’t felt yet. The way
society ties women’s
success to marriage and Flow
babies weighed heavily I started yoga six years
on me; I think women are ago. Between the exertion
AS TOLD TO ROISÍN DERVISH-O’KANE. PHOTOGRAPHY: RACHEL SHERLOCK. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY: JAMIE BEVEN; LEO ACKER; LUCKY IF SHARP; GETTY IMAGES
complicit in reinforcing it. during the asanas and
the savasana at the end,
I leave with relaxed
Try shoulders and just
After I met my husband feel very…
in my late thirties, we tried oxygenated.
to conceive but it wasn’t I do it for my
happening. It was tough; mind as well
made more so by those as my body.
around me who seemingly For the self-
got pregnant easily. When determined to normalise I went back employed, it
I see my stand-up from that IVF and share a positive to exercise, can feel hard to
time, my defensiveness story that’s like, ‘It’s a my abdominal step off the hamster
about others having kids privilege that science muscles felt loose wheel in case you
is cringey. I feared honesty can help us this much.’ and disconnected, miss an opportunity.
would make people feel But through grumpiness so I see a PT twice Yoga is one thing that
sorry for me – not and jokes rather than a week to help knit helps create some space.
ideal for a comedian. uber-sincerity. them together.
Adapt
Share Move Achieve There’s a lot of unintended
I had my son, now Before I had my son, In Stolen Focus (£20, comedy in motherhood.
one, through IVF lacing up and going for a Bloomsbury), Johann Hari People say it gets better
– following a run felt like an obligation. explores the importance after four years of misery
miscarriage. And during IVF and of finding time to enter a – imagine getting that
This means I’ll pregnancy I avoided flow state. Oddly, the time advice in any other
always understand it in case something constraints of motherhood context. The one thing I
what it’s like to be went wrong. But have helped with this. I get miss is tiredness you can
‘infertile’; I still now I put on more writing done in an fix with sleep. These days,
see a therapist cheesy disco hour-long Uber to one of my tiredness is stubborn.
who specialises music and that my shows than I used to
in baby loss. In alone time feels when I had a whole day to Sara Pascoe is on tour with
my show, I’m like a treat. When write (and procrastinate). Success Story until April 2023
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