Module 2 Prepare and Cut Materials For Casual Apparel

COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING
MATERIALS
SECTOR: GARMENT
QUALIFICATION: DRESSMAKING NC II
UNIT COMPETENCY: PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS OF CASUAL

APPAREL
MODULE TITLE: : PREPARING AND CUTTING MATERIALS OF
CASUAL APPAREL
TRAINER: JESUSITA P. BUCOG
SCHOOL: INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE OF PHILSOUTH. INC.
Lower Lomboy, Tuburan, Pagadian City
HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL
Welcome!
The unit of competency, “Prepare and cut materials of casual apparel”, is one of the
competencies of TRAINING METHODOLOGY (TM) 1, a course which compromises the
knowledge, skills and attitudes required for a TVET trainer to possess.
In this module, you are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to
complete each learning outcome. In each learning outcome are Information sheets, Self-
Checks, Operation Sheets and Task/Job Sheets. Follow and perform the activities on your own.
If you have questions, do not hesitate to ask for assistance from your facilitator.
Remember to:
 Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.
 Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are
included to supplement the materials provided in this module.
 Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager, He is there to
support you and show the correct way to do things.
 You will be given plenty of opportunities to ask questions and practice on the job.
Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way, you will
improve your speed, memory and your confidence.
 Use the Self-checks, Operation Sheets or Task or Job Sheets at the end of each section
to test your own progress. Use the Performance Criteria Checklist or Procedural
Checklist located after the sheet to check your own performance.
 When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your Trainer to
evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart
and Accomplishment Chart.
 You need to complete this module before you can perform the next module.
SESSION PLAN
SECTOR; GARMENT
QUALIFICATION TITLE: DRESSMAKING NC II
UNIT OF COMPETENCY: PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS FOR CASUAL APPAREL
MODULE TITLE: PREPARING AND CUTTING MATERIALS FOR CASUAL APPAREL
NOMINAL DURATION: 40 HOURS
Learning Outcomes: At the end of this unit you must be able to prepare and cut materials for the casual apparel
A. Introduction: This module covers the knowlege, skills and attitudes required in preparing and
cuting casual apparel. It includes the requirements in preparing materials, lay-outing and marking
pattern on materials and cutting materials.
B. LEARNING ACTIVITIES
LO1 PREPARE MATERIALS
Learning Content Methods Presentation Practices Feed Back Resources Time
1.1 Fabrics are Self-paced Read the Info Answer self Check Answer to CBLM
check and modular 1.1-1 on check 1.1.1-on answer key 1.1-1 TR/ CBC
collected in Discussion Kinds of fabrics Kinds of on Manual
accordance with fabrics Kinds of fabrics
job specification
1.2 Drafting and Self-paced Read the Info. Answer Check Answer to CBLM
cutting procedure Modular 1.2-2 Self check answer key TR/ CBC
are Discussion - on 1.2-2 on 1.2-2 on manual
check Procedure in Procedure in Procedure in
cutting cutting cutting materials
materials materials
1.3 Fabrics and Self-paced Reat the Info. Answer Check Answer to CBLM
accessories are Modular Read the Self check1.3- answer key TR/ CBC
selected and Discussion info1.3-3 3 on fabrics manual
check according on fabrics and on fabrics And accessories
accessories
to workplace And
procedure accessories
1.4 Fabric is Self-paced Read info. 1.4- Answer Self - Check Answer CBLM
soak/dried and Modular 4 on soaking check 2.4-4 To answer key TR/ CBC
pressed in Discussion and pressing on soaking on soaking and
Accordance with fabric and pressing pressing fabric
standard fabric fabric
care
LO2 LAY-OUT AND MARK PATTERN ON MATERIALS

2.1 Fabric is Self-paced Read info.2.1-5 Answer Self Check Answer CBLM
prepared before Modular On preparation check 2.1-5 To answer key TR/ CBC
cutting Discussion Of fabric on 2.1-5
preparation of preparation of
fabric fabric
2.2 Fabric Self-paced Read info 2.2-6 Answer self- Check Answer CBLM
manufacturing Modular On fabric check 2.2-6 To answer key TR/ CBC
And design Discussion manufacturing On fabric 2.2=6
And design manufacturing On fabric
And design manufacturing
And design
2.3 Pattern are Self-paced Read info 2.3-7 Answer self- Check Answer CBLM
Laid-up and Modular On pattern lay- check 2.3-7On To answer key TR/ CBC
pinned on the Discussion outing pattern lay- 2.3-7
fabic in outing On pattern lay-
accordance with outing
the fabric
Grain line
2.4 Procedure in Self-paced Read info 2.4-8 Answer self- Check Answer CBLM
cutting materials Modular 0n the check 2.4-8 on To answer key TR/ CBC
Discussion procedure in The procedure 2.4-8 on the CBLM
cutting in cutting preocedure in TR/ CBC
materials materials cutting materials
LO3 CUT MATERIALS
3.1 Fabric is Self-paced Read info 3.1-9 Answer self- Check answer to CBLM
prepared before Modular on preparation chedk 3.1-9on answer key TR/ CBC
cutting Discussion of preparation of 3.1-9
fabric fabric
3.2 Fabric is cut Self-paced Read info. 3.2- Answer Self- Check Answer CBLM
to meet design Modular 9 on procedure check 3.2-9 on To answer key TR/ CBC
requirement and Discussion in cutting procedure in 3.2-9 on
measurements of materials cutting procedure in
the pattern materials cutting materials
3.3 Garment Self-paced Read info 3.3- Answer self- Check answer to CBLM
parts are checked Modular 10 check 3.3-10 answer key 3.3- TR/ CBC
for completeness Discussion On garment On garment 10
in accordance design or style design or style On garment
with specified design or style
gament design or
style
Information Sheet 1.1
Kinds of Fabrics
1. Aertex Fabric
Woven Fabric
A trade name for a cloth patented in Britain in 1886, which was first manufactured in
1888. The cloth traps air in between its structure, keeping the body cool in summer, and
warm in winter. Two threads or ends act as one thread; when a weft thread passes
between them, the doup ends twist catching the weft and holding it tightly in place. Very
fancy and beautiful clothes can be produced by combining the cross weaving with other
weave structures.
2. Aida cloth Fabric

Woven Fabric
Aida cloth is a cotton fabric with a natural mesh pattern generally used for cross-stitch
embroidery. The open, even-weave Aida fabrics’ natural stiffness enables the fabric the
embroiders choice.
3. Baize Fabric
Woven Fabric
Baize is a smooth, dense, durable textile fabric made from wool and cotton blends
generally used on gaming tables such as snooker tables, billiards tables, and blackjack
tables. The durability and smooth finishing combined with less friction make Baize
Fabric a perfect candidate for the surface of the gaming pool tables.
4. Batiste Fabric
Woven Fabric
Batiste Fabric is one of the softest of the lightweight opaque fabrics made from
cotton, wool, linen, polyester, or a blend. The fabric is often made with a soft face
and a slight crispness, majorly used for Christening gowns, nightgowns, and
underlining for wedding gowns.
5. Bird’s Eye Knit Fabric

Knitted Fabric
Bird’s eye is a double knit fabric with a combination of tuck stitches along with knitting
stitches. The tuck stitch creates interesting eyelet or hole effect on the fabric surface
resembling a bird’s eye. FabThe fabric usually made of multi-colored threads creating
scrambling effect. The fabric may be made with designs having eyelets. They are a
popular clothing fabric, especially women’s wear.
6. Bombazine Fabric
Woven Fabric
The word is derived from the obsolete French word Bombazine applied originally to silk
but later to tree-silk or cotton. Bombazine was woven with a silk warp and worsted weft
which is twilled or corded and used for dress materials.
7. Brocade Fabric
By Anilbhardwajnoida (Own work) [ CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia
CommonsWoven Fabric
Brocade is woven fabrics having a raised floral or figured design that is introduced
during the weaving process, usually by means of a Jacquard attachment. The
design, appearing only on the fabric face, is usually made in a satin or twill weave.
The exquisite fabrics are produced by weaving with warps and weft threads of
different colors and often of different materials. Brocade refers to those textiles
wherein patterns are created in weaving by transfixing or thrusting the pattern
thread between the warp. In brocade designs with special threads are transfixed in
between skipping the passage of the regular weft over a certain number of warp
threads and by regularizing the skipping by means of pre-arranged heddles for
each type of patterning.
8. Buckram Fabric
Woven Fabric
It is a stiff coated fabric made from a lightweight loosely woven fabric, impregnated with
adhesives and fillers. This fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support and shape
retention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs, waistbands, button closures etc in garments.
They are also used as reinforcements for handbags and other articles.
9. Cable Knit Fabric

Knitted Fabric
Cable fabric is a double knit fabric made by the special loop transfer technique. The
wales in the fabric have a rope-like an appearance, where plaits are based on the transfer
of loops with adjacent wales. The fabric has an interesting surface texture like braids as
the loops cross each other. It is widely used as sweater fabric.
10. Calico Fabric
calico-prints
Woven Fabric
Calico is plain, tabby woven fabrics printed with simple designs employing one or more
colors. Calico is a woven fabric made from 100% cotton fibers. It is unbleached, undyed
and not fully processed during production. This results in the fabric being light beige
color and quite rough in appearance and texture, and it may contain unseparated cotton
husks.Chintz is a variation of Calico Fabric.
11. Cambric Fabric

Woven Fabric
Cambric is a very fine bleached linen in imitation of the French fabric made around
Cambria (France) and hence sometimes called French Lawn in Scotland. Due to the ease
of maintainability, Cambric fabrics are ideal for handkerchiefs, children’s dresses, slips,
underwear, and nightgowns.
12. Charmeuse Fabric

Woven Fabric
Charmeuse is a lightweight satin weave fabric, traditionally used to make with 100% silk
now are generally made with polyester fiber. The smooth touch, elegant sheen, and high
drapability make the Charmeuse fabric ideal for lingerie and elegant evening gowns.
13. Chenille Fabric

Woven Fabric
Chenille is a heavyweight, rough woven fabric often used for upholstery, curtains, and
cushions.
14. Corduroy Fabric

Woven Fabric
Corduroy is made from major textile fibers with one warp and two fillings. After it
is woven, the back of the cloth is coated with glue; the floats of pile yarn are then
cut in their center. The glue prevents the filling from drawing out of the goods
during the cutting. The glue is removed from the face, which is then subjected to a
series of brushings, waxings, and singeings to produce a velvetlike ribbed finish.
15. Casement Fabric

Woven Fabric
Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closely packed thick warp yarns.
Generally, it is used for curtains, table linen, upholstery and rarely used for dresses.
16. Cheese Cloth

Woven Fabric
It is a popular lightweight sheer fabric having an open weave. It has a low count fabric
consisting of carded yarns. Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and hence
the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished in a variety of ways that attract the
consumer. It is used not only for women’s and children’s dresses but also for drapery
fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.
17. Cheviot Fabric

Woven Fabric
Cheviot is a woolen fabric made originally from the wool of Cheviot sheep and now also
made from other types of wool or from blends of wool and man-made fibers in plain or
various twill weaves. A rugged tweed made from uneven yarn, this fabric usually has a
rather harsh hand. Cheviot fabric is fine, soft, and pliable. the fabric has a crispness of
texture similar to serge but is slightly rougher and heavier.
18. Chiffon Fabric

Woven Fabric
Chiffon basically refers to a light plain weaved sheer fabric with a soft drape of alternate
Sand Z-twist crepe yarns. The twist in the crepe yarns puckers the fabric slightly in both
directions after weaving, giving it some stretch and a slightly rough feel. These fabrics
when held up to the light, strongly resembles closely woven netting.
Chiffon fabric can be manufactured using different fibers like silk, synthetic, polyester,
rayon, cotton, etc. but it is generally associated with fibers like nylon or silk. Chiffon
fabric can easily be dyed in contrast to any desired color shade and used for bridal gowns
and also appears in evening dresses, prom dresses, and scarves.
19. Chino Fabric

Woven Fabric
Chino Fabrics is the slightly lustered woven fabrics made out of Cotton is usually used
for trousers and military uniforms.
20. Chintz Fabric

Woven Fabric
Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish
which may be temporary or semi-permanent glazed chintz are available in solid colour as
well as printed with floral prints. These are often made from blends of cotton and
polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons, and
draperies.
21. Crepe Fabric

By Asanagi(Asanagi (talk)’s file) [CC0],via Wikimedia CommonsWoven Fabric
Crepe fabrics are without prominent weave effects but have a crinkled or pebble surface.
It is a plain woven fabric made of very high twist yarns, either in one direction or both
warp and weft hence, giving the pebble effect. It may be manufactured in the range of
light to medium weight. The fabric has silk-like texture and drapes well. It is used for
making dresses, blouses, linings, scarves and in home furnishings too.
22. Crewel Fabric

Specialty Fabric
A wide range of crewel fabric come from Kashmir in north-western India. Because of its
versatility, a crewel fabric is widely used for the manufacturing of curtains, light
upholstery, bed-heads, cushions and bed covers and so on. Due to its longevity,
exquisiteness and with its aesthetic appeal, crewel fabric has been ruling the international
market.
The availability of crewel fabric in subtle lustrous color and rich texture makes it one of
the most demanding items. A crewel fabric possesses the capability to complement
various types of body tones.
23. Damask Fabric

Woven Fabric
Damask is a heavyweight, rough woven fabric often used for upholstery, curtains, and
cushions. The fabric often uses floral patterns or reversible figures.
24. Denim Fabric

Denim Fabric, by Digital Buggu
Woven Fabric
Denim fabrics generally used for making jeans is a rugged cotton twill. In denim fabric,
the weft passes under two or more than two warp fibers that produce the common
diagonal ribbing which is identifiable on the back of the fabric.The diagonal ribbing
separates the existence of denim fabric from cotton duck. The denim fabric is generally
colored with indigo dye to create blue jeans though jeans denoted a distinct lighter cotton
textile. Denim fabric is used on a large scale all over the world economies. Its vivid
texture and ability to provide extreme comfort makes it one of demanding fashion entities
all over. With blissful shopping experience, people are moving toward more purchasing
new innovative designs of denim fabric.
25. Dimity Fabric

Woven Fabric
Dimity – the sheer plain weave fabric is characterized by vertical ribs or cord stripes at
regular intervals. The fabric is often used for summer dresses, blouses, aprons, curtains,
bedspreads, scarves, wedding apparel, and baby clothes.
26. Drill Fabric

Woven Fabric
The drill is a type of twill woven fabrics made out of Cotton fibers, generally termed as
Khakhi, used for uniforms, workwear, sailcloth, upholstery, tents, etc. due to its
durability.
27. Double Knit Fabric

Knitted Fabric
Double Knits are made from the interlock stitches and its variations. The process involves
the use of two pairs of needles set at an angle to each other. Fibers that the generally used
to make double knits are polyester and wool. Double knits are weft knitted fabrics made
with two sets of needle beds. The fabric structure is more stable and compact. The fabrics
do not curl at the edges and do not ravel. They may be made with interesting designs and
textures. One or two yarns are used to knit one course in the fabric.
28. Duck or Canvas Fabric

Canvas Shoes, by Capri23auto
Woven Fabric
Canvas fabrics are generally made of Cotton, Linen, or synthetic in heavyweights with an
even firm weave.Generally used for tents, motor hoods, belting, packagings, sneakers,
painting canvases, tents, sandbags, Duck fabrics are rough fabrics.
A number of Canvas fabrics are commercially available made with various fiber sources
such as Cotton, Linen, Hemp, and colors blends.
29. Felt Fabric

Specialty Fabric
Natural fibers such as wool are pressed and condensed together with heat and pressure to
make a sheet of fabrics are called Felt Fabrics. Felt fabrics are non-woven fabrics.
30. Fiberglass Fabric
Specialty Fabric
Fiberglass is a material that generally consists of extremely fine glass fibers and
often used in manufacturing different products like fabric, yarns, insulators and
structural objects.
Source: Textile School

Self-check 1.1
Direction: Write True if the statement is correct and false if the
statement is wrong.
1. A dressmaker should know the different kinds of fabric.
2. It is neccessary to chech the fabric before cutting.
3. The fabric is collected and checked in accordance to job
description.
4. Width and quality of fabric must be considered to allow sewer to
estimate measurement that fits the job requirements.
5. The fabric sample is not neccessary, is just an eye sore to the
clients.
Self- check 1.1
Answer key
1. True
2. True
3. True
4. True
5. False
Step By Step Procedure For Drafting And Cutting Of Simple
Salwar Without Belt :
1. First fold the fabric width wise. Then mark length + 3 inches (cord insertion + sewing
seam) & cut it.
2. After that, from open width part take double of foothole, mark it and draw a straight line
lengthwise and cut it. Your two pieces of middle part of salwar are ready.
3. Now fold these pieces width wise so it can be adjusted in 4 layers.
fold widthwise and mark length + 3 inch
take double of foothole and cut it

adjust knee parts in 4 layers place it 0.5 inch above
4. Then fold remaining fabric width wise and place your recently cut middle part (4 layers) 0.5
inch above the fabric lengthwise and at end of it mark foothole + 1 inch. Mark a line width wise
at end of middle part which will eventually comes near about 1.5 to 2 inch.
5. From this 1.5 to 2 inch marked line take crotch length + 2.5 to 3 inch (cord insertion + sewing
seam), mark it. And from this point take 1.5 to 2 inch extra lengthwise (for curving of crotch
area).
6. Now remove knee parts.
mark foothole + 1 inch at end of knee parts
take crotch length + 2.5 to 3 inch

take 1.5 to 2 inch extra for crotch length curving
7. Now mark same points on the other side in opposite direction lengthwise i.e foothole, crotch
length etc.
8. Join 1.5 to 2 inch mark of opposite footholes in a slant manner so that you get 4 equal fabric
part of sides pieces of salwar.
mark same points on other side(opposite direction)
join it in slant manner

9. First cut 1.5 inch straight width wise then slant line & at last cut 1.5 inch straight width wise.
first cut 1.5 inch width cross
then cut slant line
at last cut 1.5 inch width cross on opposite side

10. Keep the 4 equal fabric parts of simple salwar without belt matching symmetrically on each
other and take crotch length + 3 inch from top on crotch length side, mark it and give a curve at
end for better stitching.
keep fabric pieces symmmetrically

make a curve at crotch length
cut the curve for better stitching
Source: Usha
Prepare and set table in accordance with company/s procedure with social distancing.
See to it that pattern is checked in accordance with job specification. Position

manually the pattern pieces and lay-up fabric align with pattern and pin to prevent fron
disalignment.
Sim allowance should be marked on the fabric in accordance with the job requirement.
If incase pattern has no seam allowances apply it to the fabric.
Cut materials with extra care. Follow the designated lines to produce accuracy. When sewing
perfect result will happen.
Check body measurements before drafting accuracy.
Basic block pattern is drafted using appropriate tools and customers specifications.
Drafted basic block pattern is checked for accuracy against customers specifications.
Task Sheet 1.2
Direction: Draw a design of casual apparel and apply
your own design (Blouse only).
Task Sheet 1.2
Answer key
"Hands On"
Fabric and Accesories
Accessories:
The materials or components except the main fabric used in the garments are called garment
accessories. Besides the main fabric, various additional things are used for making the garments.
Accessories include Sewing Thread, Button, Zipper, Velcro, Label, Shoulder pad, Linings,
Interlinings, etc. Accessories are of two types namely visible accessories and invisible
accessories. Some accessories are used for functional purposes and some are for decorative
purposes.
Garments accessories
Types of accessories:
 Visible accessories: Visible accessories can be seen from outside of the garments e.g.
Button, Sewing Thread, Zipper, Velcro, etc.
 Invisible accessories: They can not be seen from outside of the garments e.g. Interlining.
Sewing thread:
Almost all garments produced have one component in common; the sewing thread. Whilst
sewing thread is usually a relatively a small percentage of the cost of garments, it has an
extremely significant influence on the appearance and durability of the finished product. The
production of sewing thread is an extensive and complex subject.
Sewing thread
Types of sewing thread

For practical purposes, sewing threads for clothing industry can be divided into three broad
groups; Cotton, Synthetics and Core spun.
Thread size
There are many systems for defining thread size but the most widely used system is ‘Tex’. This
is based on the gram weight of 1000 m of yarn, so a fine thread would have a low ‘Tex’ number
and a thick thread would have a high ‘Tex’ number. Thread manufacturers using other systems
will provide the Tex equivalent values.
Button:
In clothing and fashion design, a button is a small plastic or metal disc- or knob-shaped,
typically round, object usually attached to an article of clothing in order to secure an opening, or
for ornamentation. Functional buttons work by slipping the button through a fabric or thread
loop, or by sliding the button through a reinforced slit called a buttonhole. Buttons may be
manufactured from an extremely wide range of materials, including natural materials such as
antler, bone, horn, ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, and wood; or synthetics such as celluloid, glass,
metal, bakelite and plastic. Hard plastic is by far the most common material for newly
manufactured buttons; the other materials tend to occur only in premium apparel.
Button
Rivets:
Rivets are not used to open or close the opening parts of garments. They are used for following
purposes:
 Widely used for decorative and reinforcement (support) purposes of Denim or Jeans
garments.
 It has two parts and requires an appropriate device to attach on garments
Rivets
Hook and loop fastener (Velcro):

This item consists of two woven polyamide tapes; one is covered with very fine hooks and the
other with very fine loops. When pressed together they adhere (stick) securely to each other. This
fastener is also used instead of buttons or zippers. A Swiss inventor made this product and he
offered the trade name ‘Velcro’ for it. This word comes from two French words ‘Velour, and
‘Crochet’. It is used in only a limited number of garments e.g. shoes, belts, sportswear, children
wear, medical textiles, etc. Velcro is available in roll form in the market which has most
common width of 5/8 to 3/4 inch.
Hook and loop fastener

Zipper:
A zipper (British English: zip fastener or zip) is a popular device for temporarily joining two
edges of fabric. It is used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and other bags, sporting
goods, camping gear (e.g., tents and sleeping bags), and other daily use items. This is one kind of
accessories used to open and close of some special parts of a garment. It is sometime also used
for decorative purposes. In making trouser and jackets, this is an essential component.
Zipper
Label:
Label is an attached component of garment on which important information regarding the
garment are written or printed. No garment can be sold without some kind of label attached to it.
Specially, in case of export business label on garment is must. For example: the size of garment,
trade mark, country of origin, type of raw materials, etc. are written on label. There are mainly
three types of label:
Label
 Main label: Main label contains brand name or trade name of buyer which is registered by
the buyer e.g. Levi’s, Polo, Addidus, GAP, Lewis Philippe, etc.
 Size label: It indicates the size of the garment i.e. S, M, L, XL, XXL, or collar length of
shirt 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.
 Care label: It contains the care instructions of the garment by some internationally
recognized signs. It shows the washing, drying, dry-cleaning and ironing conditions of
garments.
The all other labels are called sub-label.
Care code label:

Due to daily usage, normally a garment becomes dirty. This garment should be cleaned and
ironed before further using. For this caring of garment, some rules or instructions are expressed
by some internationally recognized symbols which are called international care labeling code.
Care code label
Motif:
The special component which is attached outside of the garment for decorative purpose called
motif. Company name, trade mark or other symbols can be written on the motif.
Motif
Lining:
Linings are generally functional parts of a garment. They are used to maintain the shape of the
garment to the hang and comfort by allowing it to slide over other garment. Linings are available
as knitted and woven fabric made from polyester, polyamide, acetate or viscose for use where
decoration and warm handle is required. Linings are joined to main garment by sewing and for
this purpose normal plain sewing machine is used. Linings are widely used in jackets, coats,
overcoats, pockets, pocket flaps, children wear, etc. Generally cheap fabrics are used as lining
materials.
Lining
Interlining:
Interlinings are used to support, reinforce and control the shape of some areas of garments such
collar, cuffs, waist bands, facings and lappets of coat. They may be sewn into the garment or
they may be attached by fusing. Now-a-days sewing interlinings are rarely used and the use of
fusible interlining is wide. Interlinings are available in a wide variety of weights and
constructions to match the base fabric of the garment. They can be either woven or non-woven
products. Woven interlinings are most commonly of plain weave construction, whereas non-
woven interlinings are made directly from textile fibres and are held together by mechanical,
chemical, thermal or solvent means or combination of these. Sewn interlinings are made by
sewing some plies of fabrics together densely then they are joined with the main garment by
sewing again, whereas fusible interlinings have coatings of thermoplastic materials on them and
are joined to garment by means of heat and pressure. Fusible interlinings give better result than
that of sewn ones.
Interlinings
Shoulder pad:
Shoulder pad is a standard item in tailored garments for both women and men. Linings are used
on the top and bottom of shoulder pad. As a result the appearance becomes more attractive,
comfortable and lasts for a long time. Shoulder pads are used for functional purposes and
sometimes for decorative purposes.
Shoulder pad
Snap fastener:
A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a pair of interlocking discs
commonly used in place of buttons to fasten clothing. A circular lip under one disc fits into a
groove on the top of the other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snaps
can be attached to fabric by hammering (using a specific punch and die set), plying, or sewing.
For plying snap fasteners, there are special snap pliers. Snap fasteners were first patented by
German inventor Heribert Bauer in 1885 as the "Federknopf-Verschluss", a novelty fastener for
men's trousers. These first versions featured an S-shaped spring in the top disc instead of a
groove.
Snap fastener
Hook-and-eye closure:
A hook-and-eye closure is a clothing fastener that consists of two parts, each sewn to their
respective pieces of cloth, one with a small protruding blunt hook, and the other with a small
loop (also known as the "eye" or "eyelet") protruding. To fasten the garment, the hook is slotted
into the loop. Hook-and-eye closures are typically used in groups to provide sufficient strength to
bear the forces involved in normal wear. For this reason, hooks and eyes are commonly available
in the form of hook-and-eye tape, consisting of two tapes, one equipped with hooks and the other
equipped with eyelets in such a way that the two tapes can be "zipped" together side-by-side. To
construct the garment, sections of hook-and-eye tape are sewn into either side of the garment
closure. Hook-and-eye closures are commonly used in corsetry.
Hook-and-eye closure
Frog (fastening):
A frog (sometimes referred to as a Chinese frog) is an ornamental braiding for fastening the front
of a garment that consists of a button and a loop through which it passes. The usual purpose of
frogs is to provide a closure for a garment while decorating it at the same time. These frogs are
usually used on garments that appear oriental in design. Tops with a mandarin collar often use
frogs at the shoulder and down the front to keep the two sections of the front closed. Frogs are
usually meant to be a design detail that "stands out". Many sewers make their own because
supplies are inexpensive and the results are customizable. Using larger or smaller size cording or
fabric tubes will result in larger and smaller frogs. Also, self-fabric can be used to create frogs
that are the same color as the garment, though frogs are usually chosen to be a contrasting color
to that of the garment. Frogs are made by looping and interlocking the cording or fabric tube into
the desired design, then securing the places where the cords touch by hand-sewing. The frog is
then stitched onto a garment, usually by hand. When a fabric tube is used, the fabric is cut on
bias. This allows the fabric tube to remain smooth and flex easily when bent into curves.
Frog (fastening)
Interfacing:
Interfacing is a textile used on the unseen or "wrong" side of fabrics to make an area of a
garment more rigid. Interfacings can be used to:
 Stiffen or add body to fabric, such as the interfacing used in shirt collars.
 Strengthen a certain area of the fabric, for instance where buttonholes will be sewn.
 Keep fabrics from stretching out of shape, particularly knit fabrics.
Interfacings
Interfacings come in a variety of weights and stiffness to suit different purposes. Generally, the
heavier weight a fabric is the heavier weight an interfacing it will use. Most modern interfacings
have heat-activated adhesive on one side. They are affixed to a garment piece using heat and
moderate pressure, from a hand iron for example. This type of interfacing is known as "fusible"
interfacing. Non-fusible interfacings do not have adhesive and must be sewn by hand or
machine.
Bias tape:
Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias (UK cross-grain). The strip's
fibers, being at 45 degrees to the length of the strip, make it stretcher as well as more fluid and
more drape able compared to a strip that is cut on grain. Many strips can be pieced together into
a long "tape." The tape's width varies from about 1/2" to about 3" depending on applications.
Bias tape is used in making piping, binding seams, finishing raw edges, etc. It is often used on
the edges of quilts, placemats, and bibs, around armhole and neckline edges instead of a facing,
and as a simple strap or tie for casual bags or clothing.
Bias tape
Cord (sewing):
In sewing, cord is a trimming made by twisting two or more strands of yarn together. Cord is
used in a number of textile arts including dressmaking, upholstery and couching.
Cord (sewing)
Lace:
Lace is an openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand.
The holes can be formed via removal of threads or cloth from a previously woven fabric, but
more often open spaces are created as part of the lace fabric. Lace-making is an ancient craft.
True lace was not made until the late 15th and early 16th centuries. A true lace is created when a
thread is looped, twisted or braided to other threads independently from a backing fabric.
Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used. Now lace is often made with cotton
thread. Manufactured lace may be made of synthetic fiber. A few modern artists make lace with
a fine copper or silver wire instead of thread.
Lace
Ribbon:
A ribbon or riband is a thin band of flexible material, typically cloth but also plastic or
sometimes metal, used primarily for binding and tying. Cloth ribbons, which most commonly
includes silk, are often used in connection with dress, but also applied for innumerable useful,
ornamental and symbolic purposes; cultures around the world use this device in their hair,
around the body, or even as ornamentation on animals, buildings, and other areas.
Ribbon
Source: Merchandiser at Fashion Xpress Buying House.
Self-check 1.3
Multiple Choice
Direction: Read the question carefully. Choose the letter of the best answer. Write your
answer on the blank before the number.
______1. Which accessories is invisible?

a. Zipper c. button
b. Interlining d. Velcro
______2. What kind of accessories used to open and close of some special parts of a garment?
a. Zipper c. button
b. Interlining d. Velcro
______3. Which type of label that contain the care instruction of the garment by some
internationally recognized sign?
a. Main label c. Care size label
b. Size label d. Care label
______4. Where Velcro word comes from?
a. French word c. Spanish word
b. Latin word d. Eran Word
______5. What textile used on the unseen or "wrong" side of fabrics to make an area of a
garment more rigid?
a. Interfacing c. Lace
b. Bias Tape d. Cord
______6. What kind of accessories is made by twisting two or more strands of yarn together?
a. Interfacing c. Lace
b. Bias Tape d. Cord
______7. What kind of accessories is a thin band of flexible material, typically cloth but also
plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily for binding and tying?
a. Bias Tape c. Lace
b. Ribbon d. Cord
______8. What kind of accessories openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work,
made by machine or by hand?
b. Ribbon d. Cord
______9. What kind of accessories is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on the bias (UK cross-grain)?
b. Ribbon d. Cord
______10. What kind of accessories is an ornamental braiding for fastening the front of a
garment that consists of a button and a loop through which it passes?
a. Frog c. Lace
b. Ribbon d. Cord
Self- check 1.3

Answer key
Multiple Choice
1. b
2. a
3. d
4. a
5. a
6. d
7. b
8. c
9. a
10. a
1. Wash/Dry Clean Before You Cut Your Fabric

Washing your fabric before you cut ensures that shrinkage will happen before you cut
out your garment or sewing project.
This is especially important for garments. Imagine spending all that time altering your
pattern to fit your curves, making a muslin (or 2) perfecting the fit, sitting at your sewing
machine for hours sewing your garment, finishing and wearing your garment, then
washing it for the first time and IT SHRINKS!!! The next time you try to wear it, it’s too
tight – like no wearing ease in it at all. You have to suck it in, lay on your bed and pray
just to get it on. Until you accept that it is now too small.
Pre-washing your fabric could have saved you the heartbreak of only being able to wear
your garment once, after putting all that time and energy into creating it.
Exceptions to cleaning your fabric or using the manufacturer’s care instructions:
1. Changing the fabric texture for a creative effect. An example of this is washing
wool, which is usually dry cleaned, for a felted look.
2. Using fabric that has been pre-shrunk or isn’t in danger of shrinking. For
example, I’ve worked with both satin and velvet and neither required dry
cleaning before using.
3. Using a muslin for fitting purposes only. If you’ve decided you’ll only be
wearing your muslin for fittings, no pre-cleaning is necessary.
Fabric Care Instructions

Fabric care instructions are found on the end of your fabric bolt. I usually take a
small notebook with me when I go fabric shopping so I can record the care
instructions. Or I take a photo with my cell phone, making sure to get a little of the
fabric in the picture so I’ll know which fabric the care instructions belong to
The end of a fabric bolt. Fabric instuctions are sometimes stamped on the bolt end, as in
this photo, or printed.
Even if you’re only buying one fabric, don’t try to commit the care instructions to
memory. It never hurts to record it in case your memory fails you. (Mine often
does.)
Following the care instructions is to your advantage because the manufacturer has
given you the best way to care for your fabric so that you will get the most use out
of it without it being damaged or looking worn and old after only a couple of
washes or dry cleanings.
2. Press Your Fabric After Washing

You should never cut wrinkled fabric. It doesn’t matter how much you “hand press”
it as you’re laying the pieces. Take the extra time (I know it’s a pain) and you won’t
be sorry. Not pressing it can result in things being too short, too long or worse – too
small! When sewing, this will cause more headaches than it’s worth.
As a side note, make sure you press your pattern pieces also. They can be pressed
on a very low heat without being damaged.
Quick tip: to avoid as many wrinkles as possible, remove your fabric from the washer
and dryer immediately after they stop. In most cases, the bad wrinkles happen when the
fabric sits in the washer and dryer for a long period of time.
If you’re fabric was dry cleaned, they’ll press it for you. You may have to press out a
wrinkle or 2 caused by it being on the hanger.
3. Make Sure Your Fabric Is On Grain

Fabric Grain
The fabric grain is important because it determines how your garment should be
cut and whether or not your garment will hang correctly on your body after it’s
sewn.
Fabric grain is straight when the cross grain is at a right angle to the straight grain.
What does this look like? When your fabric is folded in half lengthwise, selvage to
selvage and cut edges matching, there should be no diagonal wrinkles across your
fabric. You should also have a lengthwise fold that is straight and lies flat and is not
twisted or wrinkled.
If the only way your fabric lays flat and is wrinkle free is when the cut edges are
uneven, then your fabric may be off grain. You can see what I mean in the photo
below.
Fabric only lays flat when the cut edges are UNEVEN. You can see the lower layer is
shorter than the upper layer at the cut edge (left). When the upper layer is folded back,
you can clearly see the how uneven the cut edges are (right).
When you do these 3 things to prepare your fabric for cutting, you’re getting off to a
great start in sewing a garment that doesn’t look homemade.
1. Pre-wash or dry clean your fabric

2. Press your fabric after cleaning
3. Make sure your fabric is on grain
Source: Katrinakay creation.com

Self-check 2.1
Direction: Explain the following questions:
1. Why is it neccessary to wash before cutting or sewing the garment?
2. What will happened if you dont press fabric after washing?
3. Where can you usually found the manufactures fabric care instructions?
Self- check 2.1
Answer key
1. To ensure that shrinkage will happened before cutting or
sewing the garment.
2. Not pressing the garment after washing can result fabrics
being too short, too long, or worst when sewing will cause
more headaches.
3. Fabric instruction are found on the end of the Fabric bolt.

How to pre-wash your fabric before sewing
by Liesl Gibson
Why is Pre-Washing Important?

There are a few reasons why it’s important to pre-wash your fabrics. The simplest and more
important answer is that many fabrics shrink when washed, particularly in the first washing. (A
few fabrics–flannel and interlock come to mind–may continue to shrink a little bit after the first
wash). So the first wash is critical, especially since most fabrics will shrink more in length than
in width. There’s nothing worse than making something that fits only to discover it’s several
inches shorter after it gets washed!
It’s also a good idea to pre-wash fabrics to remove any extra dyes and chemicals that have been
used in the making and finishing of the fabrics. After all, you probably don’t want to be handling
chemicals if it’s not absolutely necessary, right? And if there’s extra dye in your fabric, it’s better
to remove it before it bleeds onto other fabrics. Otherwise, that white collar on your red dress
might turn pink!
Which Fabrics Should be Pre-Washed?
Here’s one of the dirty secrets of the apparel industry: sometimes it’s just easier for a
manufacturer to tell you to dry clean something when, in truth, the textile itself might have been
washable. The reason? Any fabric labeling should be backed up by textile testing, which can be
expensive and time consuming. This means that often a manufacturer will take a short cut and
label the fabric “Dry Clean Only.” Of course, when this is the case the manufacturer will also not
have accounted for shrinkage that would occur if you actually wash the garment, so in many
cases you really shouldn’t wash it. So once again, the advantage of sewing is that you can pre-
wash your fabrics and render the garment washable so you can avoid dry cleaning chemicals and
cost.
When you don’t need to pre-wash a fabric? If you’re absolutely certain that you’ll only dry
clean the finished item, you can skip pre-washing. For example, if you’re working with leather,
suede, or fur (fake or real) you can probably skip pre-washing. Also, if you’re making something
that involves lots of interfacings, trims, or tailoring details (I’m thinking specifically of evening
wear and suits), it might be better to reserve the finished garment for dry cleaning. However, in
many cases you can still pre-wash the fabrics themselves, so you’ll have to use your own
judgement here.
When Should You Pre-Wash?

As a rule, I pre-wash everything when it comes home with me, before it goes into my stash or
sewing room. This way I don’t forget to wash it! When it comes home, it goes directly into the
laundry.
How Should You Pre-Wash?

Here are a few general guidelines to help you get started. In general, you want to wash according
to the fiber rather than the type of fabric (see below). So, for example, we’ll talk about cotton
rather than voile or corduroy. The fiber is the important part here, OK?
Also, when I pre-wash a fabric I prefer to treat it a little worse than I’ll treat the finished
garment. In other words, even if I’m not planning to throw a T-shirt in the dryer, I might
machine dry the fabric just to force as much shrinkage from it as possible. That way I don’t need
to worry about the possibility that it might accidentally go through the dryer later (I’m not the
only one who does laundry in our house) and hopefully by treating it harshly the first time it
won’t do any more shrinking later.
If you think your fabric might bleed or release a lot of dye (you can check this in advance by
pressing a wet piece of white fabric against it for a minute to see if any color transfers to the
white), consider throwing a Color Catcher into the wash with your fabric.
Here are a couple of other products you might be interested in if you’re not already familiar with
them. I like to keep them in the cabinet with the laundry soap so they’re available when I need
them: Synthrapol and Retayne. (You can read all about them via the links.) With some fibers I
also add white vinegar to a pre-soak to stop the dyes from leaching out of the fabric, but you’ll
probably have better luck with the professional products. (White vinegar is great for removing
any excess soap from your wash cycle, and it will also soften your towels so you don’t need to
use fabric softener.)
Pre-Washing, Fiber by Fiber

Here’s a short list of how I pre-wash each fiber. Again, this is my personal preference; I don’t
use a dryer very much for laundry, so keep that in mind in case you live in a climate where a
dryer is necessary. Also, if you’d like to read more about the qualities of each fiber, here are
some older blog posts that might help you learn about natural fibers and manufactured fibers.
 Cotton: Most cotton is easy to care for and can be machine washed and dried without too much
concern. After pre-washing and drying, I prefer to line dry anything made from cotton after
giving it a good shake. (Think of snapping a towel.) This removes most of the wrinkles and helps
the fibers to look better and last longer.
 Linen: Linen can be machine washed, no problem. If you put linen in the dryer the fibers will
break down more quickly and the fabric will be more wrinkled. However, for pre-washing, I
might throw linen in the dryer once just to shrink it up as much as possible. If you use the dryer,
keep a spray bottle of water handy to help dampen the fabric when you iron it.
 Wool: I nearly always hand- or machine-wash wool on the gentle setting, using cool water so the
fibers don’t felt. Wool should always be line dried, then pressed with lots of steam to shrink up
the fabric a bit before cutting. I pre-wash wool this way even if I plan to hand wash or dry clean
the finished garment, and I have never had any trouble with it at all. Just be sure to choose the
gentle cycle (or hand wash so you’re not agitating the fibers too much) and use cool water.
 Silk: My personal preference is to pre-wash silk by hand with a color-safe shampoo (shampoo
for colored hair) or gentle soap (like Soak), then line dry. This is how I care for silk once it’s
been sewn, too. Dry cleaning is best if you want to maintain the stiffer hand and sheen of dupioni
or shantung, but for fabrics like charmeuse and organza I find hand washing is just fine.
 Viscose (Rayon): This fabric shrinks quite a bit when washed, but rather than putting it in the
dryer to shrink it further I almost always line dry it because it wrinkles a lot and should only be
pressed with a warmish (not hot) iron so it doesn’t melt. If you do use the dryer, use a low setting
and try to remove the fabric before it’s completely dried.
 Acetate, acrylic, nylon, and polyester: I machine wash and line dry these fibers as well. If you
use the dryer, keep it on a low setting and remove the fabric before it is completely dry. This will
help to reduce static, too. Be especially gentle with acetate because it’s fragile when wet.
 Lyocell (or Tencel): I prefer to machine wash and line dry this fabric as well, although you
probably could put it in the dryer.
What is a Pressing Cloth and Why You Should Use One
A pressing cloth will be one of the cheapest and most used items in your pressing tool kit. It
protects your fabric by preventing sheen, protecting against scorching and melting and protects
your iron against fabric melting and sticking to the sole plate or poor quality printing transferring
to your iron.
Place the pressing cloth between your fabric and the iron, then press as normal.
When to use a pressing cloth?

Always use a pressing cloth on:
 coating weight wools – so you can use a really high heat
 silks and delicate, fine fabrics to prevent marking
 synthetic fabrics – if you’re unsure about how they’ll press
 scuba – it’s a synthetic fabric, prone to melting at high temperatures, but thick and seams
need to be pressed
 PVC, pleather, oilcloth – these fabrics are all difficult to press, but you need to be able to
flatten seams to get a nice finish.
Always use a pressing cloth when ironing on fusible interfacing; your interfacing will stick much
faster, more evenly, is less likely to start coming off during sewing and most importantly, you
won’t ever have a molten mess of interfacing stuck to the sole place of your iron!
Using a pressing cloth is pretty old technology.
A damp pressing cloth used with a dry iron was the only way to generate steam before steam
irons were available. In fact many tailors still choose a damp pressing cloth and dry iron over a
steam iron to minimise any marking of the cloth.
You can buy pressing cloths, but why would you?!

A simple piece of unbleached or white cotton muslin is the most basic and most used pressing
cloth, but you can go to town and have a whole pressing cloth collection:
 Cotton (NOT poly/cotton – the polyester content will melt) muslin makes a good general
use pressing cloth.
 Plain woven cotton canvas is good for very delicate fabrics that can’t withstand much heat
but need a lot of pressing, using these damp can also help with pressing delicate fabrics.
 Silk organza sounds like a rather extravagant pressing cloth but will be really useful and
you don’t need masses; its transparency is the main advantage – you can get a much
clearer view of what’s happening underneath a silk organza pressing cloth! It can also
withstand a high heat and has a nice smooth surface meaning no textured imprint will be
transferred to your fabric.
Source:Wendy Ward
Self-check 1.4
Essay Type
Direction: Read carefully the information 1.4 and explain each question below.
1. Why is Pre-washing Important?

_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
2. When you don't need to pre-wash a fabric?

_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
_____________________________________________________________
_
Self- check 1.4

Answer key
1. Pre-washing is important because it will removes any extra dyes and chemicals that have
been used in the making and finishing of the fabrics. And makes your fabric pre-
shrinkage.
2. When you’ll only dry clean the finished item, you can skip pre-washing.
How is fabric created?

BY BAMBI TURNER
Fabric goes through quite a process before it hits the shelves.

© ISTOCKPHOTO/SAGAYAGO
So many people underestimate the role fabric plays in their lives. Sure, we all put on clothes
every day, many of us without a second thought. But have you ever stopped to think how many
important moments and everyday experiences in your life are associated with some form of
fabric? From your childhood blanket to your wedding dress, and your favorite worn-out jeans,
fabric plays a major role not only in how we live but also how we feel. The look, touch and even
scent of a familiar piece of clothing can bring to mind a first love, a cherished
vacation memory or simply a sense of comfort.
We also use fabric to express ourselves. Even beyond the world of high fashion and designer
labels, many people even feel that putting together outfits is the ultimate form of creative
expression. We use different clothing styles, colors, materials and textures to express mood,
attitude and personality.
Fabric and clothing also play an important role in religious and social beliefs. From the earliest
recorded history, a person's clothes could give us an instant glance into their socio-economic
status. Where today we hold those designer tags in highest regard, thousands of years ago, just
the fact that one was able to afford clothing at all was a sign of wealth. Today, many religious
orders are readily associated with certain types of fabric and clothes, from the bright yellow garb
of the Buddhist monk to the heavy black burkas worn by many Muslim females, to the colorful
hand-spun clothing associated with traditional African religions.
Above all, fabric serves a practical function. It protects us from cold and heat, the rain and the
bright sun. We use blankets to cover ourselves as we sleep and woven rugs to cushion our steps
as we walk.
With all of the contributions fabric makes to our everyday lives, many people don't stop to think
how fabric is created. The process of turning natural and synthetic fibers into cloth is much more
complicated than is commonly thought.
Manufacturing Process of Fabric

There are three basic steps required for fabric production. The first step in creating fabric is yarn
production. Here, the raw materials that have been harvested and processed are transformed from
raw fibers into yarn and threads. This is done by spinning the fibers. Spinning can be done by
hand, but this process is quite tedious and time consuming. These days, the vast majority of
spinning is done by spinning wheel. The fibers are drawn across the wheel, and as it spins, the
fibers are collected on a cylindrical object called a bobbin. The bobbin holds the spun fibers,
which are now connected into a long strand of thread or yarn. In the next step, the bobbins will
be transferred to another machine, where the yarn will continue on its journey into fabric.
After the raw materials have been converted into yarn, they're ready for the second step in the
production process, which involves joining these individual threads together to form fabric. This
process of joining the yarn together is called weaving. Weaving is done on a machine known as a
loom and requires two sets of yarn. The first set, called the warp set, is strung tautly across a
metal frame. The second, called the weft, is connected to metal rods, with one thread per rod.
The loom is controlled by a computer, which lets the weft know how the fabric should be woven.
After the fabric has been woven, it's removed from the loom and is ready for the final step:
processing. Fabric that's fresh off the loom is called greige, and it looks nothing like the crisp
white sheets or clothing you're used to. It's discolored and full of impurities, seed particles and
debris. Before it can be transformed into useful textiles, it must be cleaned. First, it's treated with
bleach to purify the base color. Next, it's treated with a variety of chemicals and cleaners to
remove oils, wax and other elements that are naturally occurring in most fibers. Finally, it's ready
to be shipped out to clothing and textile manufacturers.
In addition to loom weaving, there are other methods for joining fabric, including knitting and
crochet. While both are traditionally associated with wool materials, crochet is also common
with lace production. Both are traditionally done by hand. Hand looms are also widely used
throughout the world, and hand-woven textiles tend to be very popular with consumers.
Fabric Color and Design
fabric fresh off the loom and processed is still not ready for clothing and textile manufacturing,
unless everything you're making is white! The material must be treated for color and dyed before
it's ready to ship.
The first step in dyeing the fabric is to run it through a machine called a Mercerizer. The
Mercerizer contains a chemical solution, including caustic soda (also called lye), which is kept at
moderately low temperatures. The mercerization process increases the size of the pores on the
fabric threads, making it easier for them to accept color during the dyeing process. Without
mercerization, bright, bold fabrics would not be possible.
Next, the fabric is washed, and while it's still wet, it's stretched across a metal frame and pulled
tightly. This aligns the weave patterns and also opens up the fabric to accept even more color.
Throughout history, fabric dye has been made from a variety of protein and plant sources,
including the same cellulose used for making rayon that was discussed in our raw materials
sections. Crushed berries, roots and other plants were also popular, and have been used to color
fabric for thousands of years. In 1856, William Henry Perkin, a scientist searching for a cure for
malaria produced the first synthetic fabric dye, known as aniline, by extracting quinine with
alcohol. His discovery revolutionized the fabric dyeing process and helped pave the way for new
dye colors and more effective coloring techniques [source: Druding].
Today, reactive dyes are the most common. These dyes are made in the lab from chemical
compounds. When they're applied to wet fabric, the dyes react to the very molecules in the fabric
fibers themselves, forming a strong bond that will hold the color in place at the molecular level
[source: Burch].
Self-check 2.2
Fill in the blank
1. The world of high fashion and designer labels, feel that putting together outfits is
the ultimate form of creative ________.
2-4. We use different clothing styles, colors, materials and textures to express ___ , ____ and___.
5. The first step in creating fabric is ________.
Self- check 2.2
Answer key
1. Expression
2-4. Mood, attitude, personality
5. Mercerizer
Pattern Lay- out
Laying out your pattern on the fabric to prepare for cutting is an important step that must be done
carefully and accurately for great-looking results.
A well-sewn garment starts at the cutting table. Laying out your pattern on the fabric to prepare
for cutting is an important step that must be done carefully and accurately for great-looking
results. Here are some tips on layout and some ideas on pinning or using weights to anchor your
pattern pieces in place.
Pattern preliminaries
Be sure you have all the necessary pattern pieces. Most instruction sheets list pieces by letter or
number next to the layout diagrams.
Make any changes or fitting alterations to the pattern. If you significantly alter a garment’s
length, you may need extra yardage to make sure you have a workable layout. Press the pattern
pieces with a dry iron set to a low-temperature so that they’re easier to work with.
Preshrink your fabric if necessary, and make sure the grain is straight. Do this by tearing across
the grain at the ends of your fabric piece (if it’s firmly woven), pulling a thread across the width
of the fabric at the ends, or cutting along a dominant line in the pattern or weave. Fold
lengthwise, matching selvages, to see whether the ends now match. If they don’t and the fabric
needs to be straightened, gently pull on the fabric’s length from opposite corners.
Spread out fabric carefully

In preparation for cutting, fabric is usually folded. The instruction sheet gives alternatives for
folding that are determined by the fabric’s width, the garment’s size, and the size of the pattern
pieces. A crosswise layout is often needed for wide pieces, and sometimes a layout shows a
double fold, in which both selvages are brought to the center (see the drawings below). In all
cases, fold fabric right sides out to view designs that must be centered or matched and when
cutting pile fabrics like velvet or corduroy, because there’s less sliding.
Choose a layout from the appropriate instruction sheet, or invent your own. When working with
a plaid fabric, lay out your pattern pieces on a single thickness for easier matching, regardless of
suggested layout. When laying out soft sheers and slippery fabrics, tightly cover your cutting
surface with a muslin-like fabric to help prevent sliding, and use a single-thickness layout.
Whether you fold or cut singly, always keep the entire length of fabric on top of the cutting
surface while pinning and cutting to prevent distortion or stretching caused by the weight of the
fabric hanging over the table’s edge. For large fabric pieces, fold or roll up the end that’s not
being cut, and unroll as your layout progresses. Be sure that all of your pattern pieces fit on your
fabric before you begin cutting.
Choose a cutting layout

Pattern instructions provide layout diagrams for various fabric widths. Find the best layout in the
instructions for your pattern, size, and fabric width.
With-nap layout, lengthwise fold
A with-nap layout has all pattern pieces placed in the same direction, so any designs or nap on
the fabric will be consistently positioned on the garment.
Without-nap layout, crosswise fold

In a without-nap layout, the pattern pieces can be placed in opposing directions.
Lengthwise double fold

This layout is used when cutting two pieces that fit side by side on the fabric, but need to be
placed on the fold for cutting.
Grainline and layout

A grainline mark on a pattern piece is the long straight line with arrows at each end that shows
how to position the piece accurately on the fabric’s grain. Pin one of the arrows in place, and
measure from it to the fabric’s selvage. Then measure and adjust the other arrow so that it’s the
same distance from the selvage.
The phrase with-nap on a layout sheet indicates that all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric
going in the same direction, top to bottom. Use a with-nap layout for pile fabrics, like velvet and
corduroy, and for satin and fabrics with a definite one-way design. A without-nap layout is used
when pattern pieces can be laid in both directions.
Choose pins suitable to fabric; place them perpendicular to cutting lines and pointed into
corners. To keep pattern and fabric flat, catch as little of each as possible.
Weights are a fast, easy way to anchor a pattern. You can use weights designed for this purpose,
or raid your cupboard for soup cans or something smooth and heavy enough to hold your
pattern in place.
Source: Jan Bones
Self-check 2.3
Multiple Choice
Direction: Choose the letter of the correct answer. Write your answer on the blank provide
before the number.
____1. What kind of lay-out that the pattern pieces can be placed in opposing directions?
a. Without-nap layout, crosswise fold
b. With-nap layout, lengthwise fold
c. Grainline and layout
d. Lengthwise double fold
____ 2. What step that must be done carefully and accurately for great-looking results?
d. Lay-out
____ 3. What kind of lay-out that has a long straight line with arrows at each end that shows how
to position the piece accurately on the fabric’s grain?
c. Grainline
d. Lay-out
____ 4. What kind of layout has all pattern pieces placed in the same direction?
c. Grainline
d. Lay-out
____5. What kind of layout is used when cutting two pieces that fit side by side on the fabric
d. Lengthwise double fold
Self- check 2.3

Answer key
Multiple Choice
1. a
2. d
3. c
4. b
5. d
How to Measure and Cut Fabric Perfectly for Sewing
Even a seasoned seamstress will be faced with difficulty if they are working with fabric if they
are using incorrectly measured or cut fabric. If you are struggling with your patterns and designs
but are following the instructions step by step, the problem might be in your prep rather than
your main body of work.
Don’t worry, though, because there are some tips that you can keep in mind to make sure you cut
and measure your fabric perfectly.
Know What You Need

On the topic of measuring fabric, make sure you know your measurements before you begin to
work with fabric. If you are working with a sewing pattern, this is usually pretty cut and dry.
This is because most patterns detail how much fabric you’ll need.
For those who work to create garments, this can be a little more complicated, though. When you
are taking measurements from who you are making the garment for, make sure to check those
measurements multiple times.
If you are making a garment for yourself, getting measurements can be a little tricky. Your best
bet is to ask a friend for help so the measurements are right. Taking these few extra moments
will be worth it when your garment is the perfect fit.
Take a Second and Measure Again

All of us make mistakes while we’re sewing. Sometimes we even make mistakes before we start
sewing.Because of this, make sure to do all of your prep work twice. Check the measurements
you need twice and make sure you know what they are. Even further, measure your fabric twice
before you even think about cutting!
Don’t Be Afraid to Leave a Bit Extra

While you’re measuring and cutting your fabric, don’t feel compelled to cut your measurements
exactly. To expand on that, don’t cut your fabric short but don’t be afraid to leave a little extra on
your measurements.
Look at it this way: you can take away from your fabric but you can’t really seamlessly replace
fabric you’ve already cut off. So, your better bet is to leave an inch or so more than you need on
your fabric. Once you’re finished with your project, you can clean it up by trimming the excess
at the end of your project.
Mark Your Fabric
If you want to cut a straight line, you need a straight line to cut. To ensure that you have this,
don’t be afraid to mark your fabric. Tailor’s chalk is a popular choice for a non-permanent
solution.
Find a Straight Edge

When you measure and cut, it’s absolutely crucial that you are working with a straight edge. To
make sure they have a straight edge, many choose to use a long straight edge such as a yardstick
when they are measuring their fabric.It’s also important to make sure the pattern of the fabric
matches up with your straight edge. For this, start by locating the selvage – the pre-finished edge
of the fabric. Then, make sure to run your straight edge parallel to this line.
On the topic of selvage, sometimes you’ll run into a fabric whose pattern doesn’t perfectly line
up with the selvage. This is usually caused by distortion created when the fabric during rolling,
handling, and transportation. In other words, mismatched patterns and selvage can appear off
grain but they actually aren’t.
To solve this problem, stretch the fabric on the bias in each direction. This helps to reset the
weave and solve the mismatched appearance without any fuss!
Make Sure to Wash and Iron

When you are measuring your fabric, you might not always remember to leave allowances for
fabrics that shrink. Without doing this, your finished product might not live up to your
expectations after its first wash. To avoid this, take the time to wash, dry, and iron your fabric
before measuring and cutting.
Only Work on Flat Surfaces

Have you ever tried to cut wrapping paper on a bed? If you have, you probably know its
infuriating to try and get a straight cut.This same principle stands when working with fabric.
When trying to get a straight cut and proper measurements, take the time to spread your work out
on a desk or table. Even a hardwood floor is better than trying to work on top of a carpeted one.
Make Sure It’s Sharp
Another wise idea is to make sure the cutting utensils you use are sharp. With a dull cutting
instrument, you’ll find that the usual snap of your scissors quickly becomes a struggle of trying
to chop through your fabric. Of course, this sawing or chopping motion can throw off your
straight line.
Self-check 2.4
Direction: Read the question carefully and write your answer in the blank provided before the
number.
___________1. What tool usually use in cutting fabric?
___________2. What material used in marking on fabric in tailoring/dressmaking?
___________3. What measuring tool use to measure fabric, a straight edge made of wood or
plastic measuring hem length?
__________4. How to avoid shortage of fabric measurement ?

Self- check 2.4
Answer key
1. Scissors
2. Tailors Chalk
3. Yardstick
4. Pre-washing
BEFORE YOU CUT YOUR FABRIC
You've got your pattern and your fabric to make your first sewing project. How do
you go about cutting it out? Well, before we get to wield the scissors, there are a few
little things to do first...
Pre-wash your fabric

I know you’re desperate to get cracking and this is a really boring step, but it’s a
reeeeeally good idea to pre-wash your fabric before you cut it out (or steam/dry
clean, depending on your fabric choice). It may well shrink a little, or change other
properties such as the drape, resulting in a garment that’s too tight for you if you
don't wash it first. Just get into the habit of whacking it in the wash as soon as you
get home from fabric shopping and you’ll save a lot of frustration later.
Press your fabric
Once it's washed and dry, get your iron out and press out any creases in your fabric.
You'll want to get it nice and smooth to help ensure the shapes and sizes you cut
are accurate. Test out the iron on a small patch first to check that the temperature
and steam/non-steam setting you use is suitable for your fabric and won’t leave a
mark.
Prepare your pattern

Patterns usually come on a massive sheet of paper and need dividing up into
different pieces. Cut around each piece using paper scissors. In the next post I'll
outline different methods of cutting the fabric - depending on which option you
choose, you may want to cut the pattern roughly or accurately. For now, a good
option is to cut around each piece leaving a bit of extra space outside the lines.
Give your pattern a press if it’s folded or crumpled, again to help with accurate
cutting. Most pattern paper will be fine with a low, dry iron – although do test a small
patch first as the ink on some patterns can smudge.
Lay out your fabric
Find as long a table as you can get, clear everything off it and give it a wipe down. If
you don’t have a table at all, you can get a large fold-out cutting mat for the floor.
Fold your fabric in half lengthways, right sides together, matching up the two
selvedges. Okay, so there's a lot of information in that sentence, so let's break it
down:
- Folding the fabric in half makes it easier to cut two of the same piece at once - for
example, sleeves or half a bodice when there's an opening in the middle. Folding
also allows you to cut single symmetrical pieces - notice that some pattern pieces
correspond to half of a fabric piece only, and will say "place on fold" if they're to be
cut like this.
- The “right” side is the front of the fabric if it has a print or slightly different weave on
one side - it's the side you want to show on the outside of your finished garment.
Take a close look – it’s not always obvious if they're different at first glance! The
opposite of the right side in this context is the "wrong" side, rather than left side.
You'll hear the expression "right sides together" a lot in sewing instructions.
- The "selvedges" (or selvages in US English) are the woven edges of the fabric
running lengthways.
Smooth the fabric out to make both sides as flat as possible. If your fabric is longer
than your table, lay out as much as you can and keep one end rolled up neatly. That
way you can cut a few pieces at a time and unroll more when you free up some
space. Just check that all the pattern pieces fit on the fabric before you start cutting.
Lay out your pattern
Place your pattern pieces on top of your fabric. This part is a bit like a puzzle. If
you’re feeling thrifty, the aim of the game is to fit all the pattern pieces on as short a
piece of fabric as you can manage. Your pattern instructions will include a
suggested layout, or you can play around to see what works best for the width of
fabric you have and the size you're mkaing. You can also rearrange the fabric fold if
it saves fabric – for example, folding one third over two thirds – as long as the
selvedges remain exactly parallel to each other.
Each pattern piece will give you some instructions as to how to position them:
- “Place on fold” or “Cut 1 on fold” → Line up the fold edge indicated on the pattern
with the fold of the fabric. You'll end up cutting one symmetrical piece of fabric from
a pattern piece which corresponds to half.
- “Cut 1” or “Cut 2” → Cut out one piece on a single layer of fabric or matching pairs
on a double layer of fabric.
- “Cut 2 + 2” → On Tilly and the Buttons patterns we say "Cut 2 + 2 interfacing", but
if you're using another brand of pattern the second number refers to the interfacing.
So in this example, you’d cut two pieces in fabric and two matching pieces in
interfacing.
- Most pieces are laid out face up, unless they’re shaded on the pattern layout
diagram, in which case they go face down.
- A long double-pointed arrow across a pattern piece indicates the grainline. The
grainline arrow shows you how to position your pieces in relation to the direction of
threads which make up the fabric. Line up the arrow parallel to the selvedge or fold,
ie. running lengthwise down the fabric. An easy way to do this is to start by sticking a
pin in one end of the grainline arrow. Measure the distance from the arrow to the
selvedge. Now pivot the piece so that the other end of the arrow is the same
distance away from the selvedge.
Self-check3.1
Essay Type
Direction: Explain briefly the things to be done, before you cut your fabric.
Self- check 3.1
Answer key
The things to be done before cutting the fabric are: Pre-washing of
fabrics for pre-shrinkage, Let it dry and press to remove wrinkles.
Cutting Fabric for Fashion
By Alan Cannon Jones
The Process
First the client is measured to access the figure type. Then a pattern is cut in a card or paper. The
fabric is laid onto the cutting table and inspected for any defects. The pattern pieces are
positioned to ensure economic use of the fabric. The pattern is marked using a white cake of
chalk, and then manipulated for any changes in the client's figure. Then the inlays are marked
(extra fabric above the seam allowance to allow for future adjustments). The trousers may be
drafted directly onto the fabric without using a pattern.
This process could include the use of block patterns. These are a set of patterns previously
produced by the cutter for general use across all sizes and adjusted to each client's measurements.
When the marking is complete, the fabric is cut using traditional tailor's shears. When all the
parts are cut they are passed to the "trimmer," who will thread mark the seam lines using cotton
thread and cut the linings and interlinings. The cut parts are then rolled into a bundle ready for
the tailor.
The cutter's tools include: shears, tape measure, chalk, set square (wooden), and a ruler
(wooden). There have been some innovations which include a change from a clear-linen to a
printed-linen tape measure.
The cut and style of tailored garments are usually unique to the "house" or the company. The
cutter will build a reputation for a particular style of cut. Earlier cutting methods involved cutting
shapes that were recut after the fitting of the garment and copied onto card or paper to establish a
pattern. These patterns were developed into block patterns for future use. This helped to move
the process forward without having to return to the start point with each new client and/or
garment.
Self-check 3.2
Essay Type - 10pts.

Direction: Explain the process in cutting fabric for fashion?
Self- check 3.2
Answer key
First the client is measured to access the figure type. Then a pattern is cut in a card
or paper. The fabric is laid onto the cutting table and inspected for any defects. The
pattern pieces are positioned to ensure economic use of the fabric. The pattern is
marked using a white cake of chalk, and then manipulated for any changes in the
client's figure. Then the inlays are marked (extra fabric above the seam allowance
to allow for future adjustments). The trousers may be drafted directly onto the
fabric without using a pattern.
15 dressmaking tips for perfect sewing
When you start a sewing project you have the best of intentions and expectations. It is
mighty disappointing for it to turn out to be a dud that you have to discard. After all the
hard work you realize that you are not going to wear or use it anymore.
This kind of disappointment, if repeated, often will kill all your sewing enthusiasm and
creativity, in the bud. We do not want that – checkout these sewing practices – if
followed strictly, they can make your sewing top notch.
1 Select the best fabric

Quality fabric choice is the number one pre-requisite of a great looking polished sewn
garment. Fabric is expensive; Sometimes the final product may end up way more
expensive than what you would have found it on the stores. Do not buy more than
what you need. Buy as per your sewing pattern or follow the general guidelines to
see how much fabric you need for your sewing project.
2. Prewash fabric before sewing

Most of the fabric shrink in wash. This will make your finished sewn project unfit to
wear after the first few washes if you have not prewashed the fabric.
Prewashing the fabric is nothing but hand washing it and drying it properly. Remember
to iron all the wrinkles out before using it.
3. Learn to cut fabric properly
 Use Sharp good quality scissors to cut fabric
Cutting is one of those chores that I bear for the joy of sewing. Imagine if I have to do
it with a blunt useless scissors. Ensure that the fabric is cut on the lengthwise grain for
dresses pants skirts etc for proper drape and good fall.
4. Get a good enough sewing machine

Your Sewing machine does not have to be a fancy piece for you to take up sewing. An
ordinary straight stitch or zig zag sewing machine will suffice.
5. Press as you sew
It is very easy to skip the pressing when sewing clothes. Actually you do not need an
iron box, when you think like that. But do not think like that.
Pressing is such an important thing when sewing, the whole look of your final product
may depend on this.So ignore pressing while sewing at your own peril.
There is only so much you can do with finger pressing. An iron can give that
professional ‘not- homemade’ look to your home made clothes. Always sew the seams
open. You can bulk finish seams and then bulk press.
6. Always interface where necessary

Interfacing is a fabric material which is used to give firmness, strength, stability and
weight to seams and fabric surfaces.The fabric would just flop around if not for the
interfacing. You can use fusible interfacing on just about any fabric. Just place the glue
side of this interfacing on the wrong side of your fabric and then use a hot iron to press
in place.
7 Maintain your sewing machine

Your sewing machine can make your sewing life hell if you do not give it the care it
deserves. Checkout maintaining it properly.
8. Learn to make clothes from sewing patterns

Sewing patterns can be self drafted or store brought
9. Get some nice sewing supplies and tools
You most likely already have the most essential sewing tools like sewing machine, tape
measure, scissors, pins, chalk and pattern paper. Checkout the r sewing tools and
supplies you may need to further your sewing expertise and make your job easier.
10 Plan the sequence of stitching in advance

usually write down the sequence follow in making a garment – especially if it is the first
time in making it. You can stitch the sections as per the sequence detailed below or as
per your pattern instructions.
1.Panels,princess,lines
2. Yokes
3 Darts,tucks,pleats
4. Pockets
5. Zippers
6. Facings
7.Shoulder,seams
8. Collars
9. Sleeves
10.Waist seams of dresses/ waistbands
11. Hems
12. Buttonholes
13. Buttons
11 Always clip and trim seam allowances wherever necessary

For seams to work nicely this is a necessity, especially if you have curved seams. Your
pattern pieces have curves and you stitch straight lines . To conform to the curves the
seam allowances should be trimmed to the minimum and clipped at intervals
12. Buy the best quality sewing notions and trims

Sewing notions and trims you use on your clothes shout the quality of the final product.
Even a well tailored clothing in a good fabric can be ruined with a cheap looking zipper
or button. So do not compromise on this.
13. Follow couture sewing techniques

Finishing the fabric edges, using delicate invisible stitches are all techniques designers
use to finish their exquisite creations.
14 Hang garments before hemming

Most fabric stretch. To ensure that the stretch is done away with before hemming hang
the dress for atleast 12 hours before you hem it. You will eliminate the stretch of newly
sewn clothes.
15 Check for loose thread trails and trim away

Nothing is nore unsightly than loose threads on a garment you are wearing. When you
back stitch at the start of a seam and when ending, it you will be leaving lot of thread
tails – just clip all of them at the end of your session painstakingly.
Follow the Fitting standards in clothing

There are some standards of clothing that you should ensure that your finished sewn
product should adhere to. Ensure that they are followed so that you make something
that you are proud of
You should ensure that the garment you have sewn meets the following criteria
 Buttons fasten easily, neatly and securely.

 There are no loose seam stitching or hanging threads
 Buttons and buttonholes are all placed at an equal distance from the edge
 Stitches are all even and smooth
 Collars are neatly finished, equal on both sides, undercollar doesnot roll to the front
collar. The corners are neatly turned out.
 Darts are lying smooth without any projections. Dart on either side of the bodice are
placed equally and look the same.
 Facing at the neckline is neatly turned inside the garment without any bulges. The
fabric edges are finished
 Prints and patterns of the cloth you have chosen look neatly joined.
 Hem stitching is looking smooth without any projections or bulges and at an even
distance from the hem edge
 The pant hem is ending 2 cms from the ground when you are wearing shoes. Long
sleeve hems are touching the top of your hands.
Source:Sewguide.com
Self-check 3.3
Matching Type
Direction: Match column A with column B. Write only the letter of answer on the blank.
Column A ____4. What fabric materials is used to

give firmness, strength, stability and
___1. What techniques use by designers weight to seams and fabric surfaces?
to finish their exquisite creations ?
____5.What happened if your finished
____2. What quality of scissors in sewn project unfit to wear after few
cutting fabric? washes?
____3. Atleast how many hours should Column B

the garment be hunged to ensure the
stretch is done away before hemming. a. 4 hours
b. Interface Techniques f. Sharp
c. Couture sewing techniques g. Select the best fabric
d. 12 hours h. Fabric Shrinkage
e.Interfacing
II. Enumeration
Give atleast five Most essential sewing tool.
Self- check 3.3

Answer key
I- Matching Type
1. c
2. f.
3. d.
4. e.
5. h.
II – Enumeration
1. Sewing Machine
2. Tape Measure
3. Scissors
4. Pins
5. Chalk And Pattern Paper

Module 2 Prepare and Cut Materials For Casual Apparel

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COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING

UNIT COMPETENCY: PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS OF CASUAL

LO2 LAY-OUT AND MARK PATTERN ON MATERIALS

2. Aida cloth Fabric

5. Bird’s Eye Knit Fabric

9. Cable Knit Fabric

11. Cambric Fabric

12. Charmeuse Fabric

13. Chenille Fabric

14. Corduroy Fabric

15. Casement Fabric

16. Cheese Cloth

17. Cheviot Fabric

18. Chiffon Fabric

19. Chino Fabric

20. Chintz Fabric

21. Crepe Fabric

22. Crewel Fabric

23. Damask Fabric

24. Denim Fabric

25. Dimity Fabric

26. Drill Fabric

27. Double Knit Fabric

28. Duck or Canvas Fabric

29. Felt Fabric

Source: Textile School

3. Now fold these pieces width wise so it can be adjusted in 4 layers.

fold widthwise and mark length + 3 inch

take double of foothole and cut it

6. Now remove knee parts.

mark foothole + 1 inch at end of knee parts

take crotch length + 2.5 to 3 inch

mark same points on other side(opposite direction)

join it in slant manner

then cut slant line

at last cut 1.5 inch width cross on opposite side

keep fabric pieces symmmetrically

cut the curve for better stitching

See to it that pattern is checked in accordance with job specification. Position

Check body measurements before drafting accuracy.

Types of sewing thread

Hook and loop fastener (Velcro):

Hook and loop fastener

Care code label:

Care code label

______1. Which accessories is invisible?

Self- check 1.3

Information Sheet 2.1

1. Wash/Dry Clean Before You Cut Your Fabric

Exceptions to cleaning your fabric or using the manufacturer’s care instructions:

Fabric Care Instructions

2. Press Your Fabric After Washing

3. Make Sure Your Fabric Is On Grain

1. Pre-wash or dry clean your fabric

Source: Katrinakay creation.com

1. Why is it neccessary to wash before cutting or sewing the garment?

2. What will happened if you dont press fabric after washing?

Information Sheet 1.4

Why is Pre-Washing Important?

When Should You Pre-Wash?

How Should You Pre-Wash?

Pre-Washing, Fiber by Fiber

What is a Pressing Cloth and Why You Should Use One