Home Furnishing Lecture
 1. Applique- This comes from the
Unit I. Sewing: Its History and Relevance
Sewing- a craft and practical skill that
involves stitching or joining fabrics together
using a needle and thread or sewing
machine
- fundamental method for creating various
items
- Sewing allows individuals to express their
creativity, customize clothing to fit their
preferences, and engage in sustainable
practices by repurposing or creating new
textiles.
HISTORY
- originated during the Paleolithic era, where
bone needles and threads made from plant
fibers were used to stitch together animal
skins and furs for clothing and shelter
- ancient Egypt, for example, intricate
embroidery and sewing adorned the
clothing of royalty and the elite.
 Thomas Saint(1790)
- patented a machine for sewing
leather
- paved the way for mechanized
garment production, significantly
changing the textile industry.
 Barthélemy Thimonnier(1830)
- French tailor, patented a machine
and used it for sewing army clothing.
 Walter Hunt(between 1832 and
1834) - built a sewing machine in his
New York shop but never patented it
 mid-19th century - inventors realized
that it was not necessary for the
whole needle to go through the cloth
 Elias Howe(1946) - two innovations
were combined
 Isaac M. Singer(1851) - first sewing
machine with an overhanging arm
 James Gibbs(1856) - invented the
chain stitch machine
 Sewing Terms and Definition
French word “appliquer,” which
means to apply or put on.
 2. Armscye- The opening in a bodice
to which the sleeve is attached; also
known as an armhole.
 3. Baste- Temporary long running
stitches, made by either hand or
machine that holds the fabric
together before permanent stitches
are applied.
 4. Bias- A direction of a piece of
woven fabric.
 5. Binding- A narrow strip of material
which is sewn around the edge of a
garment, a bag or even a quilt.
 6. Bobbin- The thread that comes up
from the bottom and meets the
thread from the spool to form the
stitch.
 7. Bumblebunching- That annoying
tangled loop of stitching on the
bobbin side of the fabric
 8. Buttonhole- A small cut in the
fabric that is bound with small
stitching.
 9. Casing- A folded over edge of a
garment, which is usually at the
waist.
 10. Crossgrain- The line of fabric
perpendicular to the selvage edge of
the fabric.
 11. Cross stitch- A needlework stitch
that uses 2 stitches that cross over
to create a cross shape.
 12. Cutting mat- A self-healing board
used for cutting fabric on.
 13. Dart- A common technique used
for shaping garments.
 14. Darn (or darning)- Usually refers
to the repair of a small hole, most
often in knitwear, using a needle and
thread.
 15. Drape- The fluid way that the
fabric hangs in a garment.
 16. Dressmaker- Someone who
makes custom clothing for women.
 17. Ease- The allowance of space in
a pattern for fit, comfort and style,
over exact body measurements.
 18. Edge stitch- Straight stitching
very close to the edge of a seam,
trim or outer edge.
 19. Face- The front of a piece of
fabric (the right side).
 20. Fat Quarter- A quarter of a meter
of fabric measuring 18 x 22 inches.
 21. Feather stitch- Hand stitch used
to smoothly join 2 layers of fabric.
 22. Feed dogs- Small jagged feet
that sit under the presser foot of a
sewing machine.
 23. Gather- A way of gathering the
fabric to create fullness in the fabric,
such as ruffles. It is a technique for
shortening the length of a strip of
fabric, so that the longer piece can
be attached to the shorter piece.
 24. Grain- Describes the direction of
the warp and the weft in a woven
fabric.
 25. Hem- The finished bottom edge
of a garment. The hem indicates the
edge which is usually folded up and
sewn, thus creating a neat and even
finish.
 26. Interfacing- A term for a textile
used on the unseen (wrong) side of
fabrics. They support and stabilize
the fashion fabric of the garment.
 27. Ladder stitch- This is a stitch
used to close large openings, or,
alternatively, to join 2 pattern pieces
seamlessly.
 28. Lapped seams- Seams lapped
one over the other – wrong side to
right – with seam lines meeting in
the middle.
 29. Lining- can hide the seam and
make the garments easier and more
comfortable to wear.
 30. Match point- A point marked on
one pattern piece so it can be
matched to a similar point on
another pattern piece.
 31. Nap- A fabric texture that runs in
a particular direction, and requires
all other pattern pieces to be cut
facing the same orientation.
 32. Notions- Small accessories used
to aid in sewing: scissors, needles,
thread, seam ripper, zippers, etc.
 33. Patchwork- The art of sewing
small pieces of fabric together to
make a larger fabric or design
 34. Pattern- A set of sewing
instructions with sized templates
used to assemble a sewn item.
 35. Piping- A trim of fabric-wrapped
cording inserted into a seam to
embellish a garment or project.
 36. Placket- An opening in the upper
part of trousers, skirts, or sleeves.
 37. Pleat- A fold formed by folding
over the fabric and stitching it to
itself to secured the fold in place.
 38. Pocket- A rectangle (or other
shape) of fabric inserted into a
garment accessible from the finished
outside edge of the garment to hold
small items.
 39. Pressing- Using an iron to press
wrinkles from a fabric or press a
crease in place.
 40. Pre-Wash- This is an important
step if it is going to be made into a
garment or project that will be
machine washed and dried.
 41. Quilting- A method of sewing (or
tying) two layers of cloth together
with an inner layer of batting
between it.
 42. Seam- The line where two
pieces of fabric are joined together
by sewing them with thread.
 43. Seam Allowance- The small
space of fabric between the raw
 edge and where the seam is sewn.
Common seam allowances range
from ¼ inch to 5/8 inch.
 44. Seam Ripper- A tool used for
picking or ripping out sewing
stitches.
 45. Selvage- The edge of a woven
fabric produced during the
manufacturing process.
 46. Serging- A method of looping
threads over the raw edge of the
fabric to finish the edge to prevent
fraying.
 47. Shirring- Several gathered
seams in a row next to each other.
This can easily be achieved by using
elastic thread.
 48. Smocking- A technique in which
pleats are gathered and folded in a
variety of formations to make
texture.
 50. Tacking- Big stitches used to
hold 2 pieces of cloth together to
make it easier to sew. These
temporary stitches are removed
once a permanent seam is
completed.
 51. Termination point- The place
where 2 seam lines end.
 52. Tuck- A stitched fold of fabric.
 53. Underlay- The layer of fabric
underneath another layer of fabric.
 54. Warp- The lengthwise thread in
woven fabric.
 55. Weft- The crosswise threads in
woven fabric.
 56. Wrong side- The inside or back
of the fabric. The side that isn’t on
show.
 57. Yardage- A term for an undefined
length of fabric.
1) Measuring Tools
 Measuring Tape: A flexible tape
used to measure body
dimensions, fabric lengths, and
other dimensions.
 Ruler: A straight-edged
measuring tool used for precise
measurements.
 L-Square Ruler: Used for
creating right angles and
measuring fabric and patterns
accurately.
 French Curve: A curved template
used for creating smooth curves
in pattern drafting
 Hip Curve Ruler: A curved ruler
specifically designed for making
accurate curves around hips and
waistlines.
 Seam Gauge: A small ruler-like
tool with a sliding marker that
helps you measure and mark
consistent seam allowances and
hems.
 Pattern Grading Ruler: A ruler
with multiple sizes marked on it,
used for grading patterns to
different sizes.
 Hem Gauge: A ruler with a slider
that can be set to specific hem
depths, ensuring even and
precise hems.
2) Cutting Tools
 Fabric Scissors/Shears: High-
quality scissors with sharp
blades designed for cutting fabric
smoothly and accurately.
 Pinking Shears: These scissors
have zigzag blades that help
prevent fabric edges from
fraying.
 Rotary Cutter: A circular blade
tool used with a cutting mat for
precise straight-line cutting.
 Cutting Mat: A self-healing mat
that protects surfaces and
provides a cutting surface for
rotary cutters. It's marked with
measurements for accurate
cutting.
  Scissors: are used for cutting
paper, patterns and threads.
 Thread Snips: Small, sharp
scissors designed for quickly
cutting threads while sewing.
 Seam Ripper: A tool used to
remove stitches and seams
3) Marking Tools
 Fabric Marker/Pen: Used to mark
fabric temporarily for cutting
lines, darts, pleats, and other
design elements. Chalk comes in
various colors and forms.
 Tailor's Chalk: A larger, flat chalk
used for marking fabrics with
precision
 Tracing Paper and Wheel:
Tracing paper is used with a
tracing wheel to transfer
markings from a pattern to fabric,
creating a temporary guide.
 Vanishing or Water-Soluble Pen:
These pens create marks that
disappear with water or time
4) Pressing Tools
 Iron and Ironing Board: A crucial
tool for pressing seams, setting
creases, and giving a polished
finish to fabric. Use the
appropriate heat setting for your
fabric type.
 Pressing Cloth: A lightweight
cloth placed between the iron
and delicate fabrics to prevent
damage or shine.
 Steamer: Used to apply steam to
fabrics to relax fibers, remove
wrinkles, and set creases. Useful
for fabrics that can't be ironed
directly.
 Tailor's Ham and Sleeve Roll:
These curved pressing tools help
shape and press curved areas
like darts, seams, and sleeves.
 Clapper: A wooden tool used to
press seams flat and set them
quickly. It's often used in
tailoring.
 Seam Roll: A cylinder-shaped
pressing tool used for pressing
long seams, such as those on
trousers or skirts.
5) Sewing Tools
 Sewing Machine: The
cornerstone of your sewing
setup. Choose a machine
suitable for your skill level and
the type of sewing you plan to
do.
 Needles: Different types of
needles are designed for various
fabrics and purposes, like
ballpoint needles for knits and
sharp needles for woven fabrics.
 Thread: High-quality thread that
matches your fabric is crucial for
strong and durable seams.
 Pins: Straight pins hold fabric
layers together for sewing. Ball-
head pins are easier to see and
handle.
 Pincushion: Keeps your pins
organized and easily accessible
while sewing.
 Bobbins: Filled with thread and
used with your sewing machine
to create stitches.
 Thimble: Protects your fingers
while hand-sewing and prevents
needle pricks.
 Needle Threader: Helps you
thread needles more easily
 Pattern Paper: Used for tracing
and altering patterns without
damaging the original.
Diverse Uses of Sewing
 Fashion and Clothing: Sewing is
the foundation of garment
production, and fashion designers
use it to bring their creative visions
to life
 Home Decor: Sewing is widely used
in creating home textiles allowing
homeowners to personalize their
living spaces.
 Crafts and Accessories: Sewing is
a fundamental skill for creating a
wide range of accessories, such as
handbags, backpacks, hats, and
scarves. Crafters often use sewing
to make decorative items like wall
hangings, tapestries, and pot
holders.
 Repair and Alteration: Sewing is a
valuable skill for repairing damaged
clothing, from simple mending to
more complex fixes like replacing
zippers or fixing hems. Garment
alteration allows individuals to
modify existing clothing to fit their
changing bodies or style
preferences.
 Costumes and Theatrical
Production: Sewing plays a vital
role in costume design for theater,
film, and television, helping bring
characters and historical periods to
life. Cosplayers utilize sewing to
recreate intricate costumes inspired
by characters from video games,
anime, movies, and more.
 Quilting: Quilting is a time-honored
sewing tradition, where layers of
fabric are stitched together to create
warm, decorative quilts and
blankets. Quilting techniques vary
across cultures, with unique patterns
and styles reflecting regional
traditions.
 Sustainable and Handmade
Movements: In recent years,
sewing has experienced a
resurgence due to the growing
interest in sustainable and
handmade practices
Advantages of Sewing
1. Creativity and Self-Expression: Allows
individual to unleash their creativity and
express themselves through fabric, colors,
patterns, and designs.
2. Customization: We can customize
clothing and accessories to fit our body
shape and personal style perfectly.
3. Sustainability: In an era of fast fashion
and mass production, sewing offers a more
sustainable approach to clothing and textile
consumption.
4. Cost-Effectiveness: Sewing can save
you money in the long run. Creating your
own clothes, home decor, and accessories
can be more affordable than buying high-
quality, artisanal items.
5. Repair and Upcycling: With sewing
skills, you can repair damaged clothing and
give new life to old pieces by upcycling
them into something fresh and stylish.
6. Handmade Gifts and Treasures: Hand-
sewn gifts have a unique sentimental value,
making them thoughtful and cherished by
the recipients.
7. Stress Relief and Mindfulness: Can be
a therapeutic activity that helps reduce
stress and anxiety. Focusing on the process
of stitching can promote mindfulness and a
sense of calm.
8. Practical Life Skill: Sewing is a practical
skill that comes in handy in various
situations
9. Career and Business Opportunities:
For those with advanced sewing skills, it
can lead to career opportunities in the
fashion industry, costume design, and even
entrepreneurship through starting a sewing-
related business.
10. Sense of Accomplishment:
Completing a sewing project, whether big or
small, provides a sense of accomplishment
and pride.
Basic Seams and Stitches
 1. Straight Stitch: It is a simple
forward stitch that goes straight through the
fabric.
2. Backstitch: The backstitch
reinforces the seams. It involves stitching
backward for a couple of stitches before
continuing forward, creating a strong and
secure seam.
3. Zigzag Stitch: The zigzag stitch
is useful for preventing fabric edges from
fraying. It creates a zigzag pattern and is
often used for finishing raw edges.
4. Basting Stitch: A temporary long
stitch used to hold fabric pieces together
before final stitching. It's easy to remove
once the permanent sewing is done.
5. Running Stitch: This is a simple
stitch that goes in and out of the fabric,
forming straight lines. It's commonly used in
hand-sewing and quilting.
6. Blind Stitch (Slip Stitch): The
blind stitch is nearly invisible on the outside
of the fabric. It's often used for hemming or
attaching closures like zippers.
7. French Seam: A seam used to
encase raw fabric edges within itself,
providing a neat finish on the inside of the
fabric.
8. Cross Stitch: A popular
embroidery stitch that forms an "X" pattern
on fabric, often used to create decorative
designs or patterns.
Sewing Machine
A. Upper Part of Sewing Machine
1) Arm - is the curve part of the
head containing mechanism for
operating the needle.
2) Bed: The working surface of the
machine under which is located
the mechanism that handles the
lower thread.
3) Bobbin winder: The part that
fills a bobbin while the machine
is stitching
4) Feed dogs: The toothed
mechanism beneath the presser
foot that moves the fabric
forward and backward.
5) Hand wheel/ Balance wheel:
The part that controls the motion
of the machine manually and/or
electrically.
6) Head: The part of the machine
above the table, containing the
stitching mechanism.
7) Needle: The part that penetrates
the fabric. It carries the thread to
the hook or shuttle and up again
to make the stitch.
8) Needle bar: A vertical bar that
holds one or more needles and
moves the needles up and down.
9) Needle screw (needle bar
clamp): The screw that holds the
needle in the needle bar.
10) Presser bar: The bar to which
the presser foot is attached.
11) Presser bar lifter: A lever at the
back of the presser bar used to
raise and lower the presser foot
by hand.
12) Presser foot: A device that
holds the fabric in place for
stitching.
13) Pressure regulator (pressure
dial): Control that regulates the
amount of pressure on the
presser foot.
14) Slide plate (slide or bed slide):
A removable cover at the left of
the machine bed that allows
access to the lower mechanism.
15) Stitch regulator: A device that
regulates stitch length.
16) Table: The cabinet on which the
head rests. It generally has a
drawer on the left side.
17) Tension Regulator: used to
control tightness or looseness of
the upper thread to avoid
puckering problems.
18) Thread Take-up lever: The part
that first loosens the top thread
during the stitch formation, then
re- moves any slack to set or
lock the stitch.
19) Take-up lever guard: A piece of
metal in front of the thread take-
up lever.
20) Thread guides (thread
eyelets): The parts that guide
the thread from the thread cone
to the needle.
21) Thread stand: A metal device
that holds thread cones.
22) Throat plate: The smooth
surface directly under the
presser foot that includes the
stitch hole and surrounds the
feed dog
23) Reverse switch control: used
to restitch over a very shot area
to increase seam strength.
B. Lower Part of Sewing Machine
1) Power Switch - a power switch
is used to supply the electricity to
the machine.
2) Oil Pan - is attached under the
bed with volts and is the
reservoir for oil that gets pumped
throughout the hose to lubricate
the cool moving parts.
3) Motor - is connected to the main
shaft with V-belt, it runs
constantly when the machine is
on, so you always hear the
quickly identifiable humming
noise.
4) Knee Lifter - it raises and lowers
the presser foot so that your
hands do not leave the fabric
when doing the fiddler parts of
sewing.
5) Pitman Rod - this rod connects
the pedal to the clutch motor that
when the pedal pressed, the
drive wheel revolves.
6) Legs - it supports the upper
parts of sewing machine.
7) Pedal/ Treadle - it is where the
feet are placed to drive the band
wheel through the pitman rod.
MAINTENANCE OF SEWING MACHINE
10 most common trouble areas of a sewing
machine:
1. Change the Needle
Needles are the easiest
and cheapest part of a
sewing machine to
change yet is makes up
50% of the seam.
2. Clean the Machine
Sewing machines need
weekly if not daily
removable of lint and fluff
from underneath the
throat plate. First, remove
the throat plate and
bobbin case to expose
areas where lint gathers.
Using a brush or a Q-tip,
remove all visible lint and
dust bunnies. If the
machine requires oil, add
a drop of oil after
cleaning. Do not use
canned air.
3. Check the Top Threading
If there are huge loops on
the back of the fabric, the
problem is that the top
thread is not in the
tension disks.
4. Quality Thread Purchase
thread from a quilt store
or a store that sells
sewing machines to be
sure it is a quality thread.
Sewing machines can run
on a low-quality thread,
but remember, thread
makes up the other 50%
of the seam.
5. Bobbin thread not in the
bobbin tension The
bobbin too has its own
tension. If the bobbin
thread is not in its
tension, the stitch will
look unbalanced.
6. Not having your machine
cleaned annually Just like
cars, sewing machines
need regular tune-ups. If
you want your sewing
machine to last, have it
serviced on an annual
basis.
7. Wrong bobbin With so
many different brands of
sewing machines all
taking a different size
bobbin, it is easy to
accidentally be using the
wrong size. Just because a
bobbin is a plastic bobbin
does not mean it will fit
your sewing machine
8. Needle is not high
enough Sounds simple
but not getting the needle
all the way up into
position will make stitches
not form correctly. This
problem is often hard to
spot. Loosen the needle
screw and gently lift the
needle up.
9. Needle too small for the
thread Thicker thread
must go through a bigger
needle. A needle’s groove
down the front of the
needle must fit the thread
size. Small needles and
thick thread are a bad
combination.
10. . Nicks in the throat plate
Check the sewing
machine’s throat plate
opening for needle strikes
or small rough nicks. If
you have been breaking
needles lately, there may
be small burrs on the
throat plate.
Other troubleshooting techniques:
1. Thread bunching up under your fabric
when sewing If you're seeing knots of
 extra thread on the underside of your
sewing, there are several likely culprits
2. Bent or broken needles This is a
problematic issue that can be
dangerous as well as annoying. Always
use a new needle for a new project. This
prevents needles from getting dull or
hooked at the tip, which can damage
your fabric.
3. Fabric not feeding Make sure if your
machine has a drop-feed setting that it
has not been activated, and that you
don't have an embroidery or darning
plate covering the feed dogs. You'll also
want to be sure that your presser foot is
down, and is set to the correct pressure
for your fabric
4. Thread keeps breaking Check the type
of thread that you're using. Delicate
threads designed for hand sewing are
not suitable for use in a sewing
machine. Your top and bottom threads
should also be of the same weight.
5. Machine is skipping stitches There are
several possible reasons for your
machine to skip stitches. First, check
that your needle is installed correctly,
not bent or otherwise damaged, and
that you're using the right type of
needle for your project. If the top
thread is not reaching the bobbin, the
threads will not lock properly, resulting
in a skipped stitch.
6. Bobbin tension not consistent If you
find yourself constantly adjusting the
tension of your bobbin thread, check
the bobbin itself. Plastic bobbins
especially can wear, causing them to
grow loose within the bobbin housing
and making it difficult to maintain the
correct tension. Try switching to a new
metal bobbin and see if that resolves
the issue.
7. Seams in stretch fabrics coming out
wavy This one may be a sewing
machine issue, but it can also be a
problem with your technique.
8. Sewing machine seizes up or won't sew
It's not uncommon to need to give your
machine a bit of help by turning the
handwheel, especially when you're just
getting a seam started. However, if you
need to force the wheel to turn, or the
machine doesn't pick up after a bit of
assistance, stop what you're doing!
Likely, your fabric is too tough for your
machine to sew, and continuing to try
will damage your machine.
9. Fabric or threads are bunching at the
start or ends of seams Your seams
should lay perfectly flat from one end to
the other, but it's not uncommon to see
bunching or tangled threads at the
ends. This is caused by backstitching (or
back-tacking) over the ends of the
fabric, which changes the tensions your
sewing machine experiences and causes
tangles
10. Thread inconsistently knots, loosens,
or tangles This can be an infuriating
problem to track down. One minute,
everything's sewing along just fine, and
the next, your machine has tangled,
skipped stitches, or knotted up the
threads. If the issue is inconsistent, the
problem is not likely to be your
threading or tension settings. Instead,
the issue is probably fluff! That's right,
the tiny bits of lint and dust that build
up inside your sewing machine,
especially in and around the bobbin
case, can cause no end of difficulties if
they end up in the wrong place at the
wrong time.
11. Thread fraying, shredding, and
breaking If your thread looks as though
it's been through the mill, it's probably
 an issue with your needle. Make sure
that your thread and needle sizes are
compatible
12. Fabric feed is inconsistent Even seams
are the mark of a good sewist, but it can
be terribly difficult to manage if your
machine isn't drawing the fabric evenly.
There are several possible reasons for
uneven feed, and the culprit, not
surprisingly, is usually the feed dogs. If
your machine is older, it's possible the
feed dogs may have worn down enough
that they aren't catching the fabric
evenly.
13. Machine is making strange noises Step
one: stop sewing! As soon as you hear
unexpected thumps or clunks coming
from your machine, take your foot off
the pedal. It's likely that your machine
just needs a good cleaning
14. The machine is running, but the needle
won't move! Though initially
perplexing, this problem has a simple
solution. Your machine is likely set in
bobbin-winding mode, so check that the
lever or winding post for your bobbin is
in the correct position
Care tips for maintaining your sewing machine:
 Read the Manual: Start by reading the
manufacturer's manual that comes with
your sewing machine. It will provide
specific care instructions for your
model.
 Cleaning: Regularly clean your machine
to remove dust, lint, and debris. Use a
soft brush, lint brush, or compressed air
to clean the bobbin area, feed dogs, and
other nooks and crannies.
 Changing Needles: Replace the sewing
machine needle after every 8-10 hours
of sewing or when it becomes dull or
bent. Using a worn needle can cause
thread breakage and damage to your
fabric.
 Thread Selection: Use high-quality
thread appropriate for your sewing
project. Low-quality thread can lead to
tension issues and machine jams.
 Bobbin Care: Clean and oil the bobbin
area as recommended in your manual.
Make sure the bobbin is wound evenly
and inserted correctly.
 Tension Adjustment: Check and adjust
the thread tension as needed for
different fabrics and threads. Test your
stitches on a scrap piece of fabric before
starting your project.
 Oil the Machine: Some machines
require oiling; others are designed to be
self-lubricating. Follow the
manufacturer's recommendations for
oiling and use only the recommended
oil.
 Regular Maintenance: Consider taking
your sewing machine for professional
servicing at least once a year, especially
if you use it frequently. A professional
can clean, oil, and check for any
potential issues.
 Keep It Covered: When not in use, cover
your sewing machine with a dust cover
or place it in a carrying case to protect it
from dust and moisture.
 Proper Storage: Store your machine in a
dry, cool place away from direct sunlight
and extreme temperatures
 Use the Right Needles: Ensure you are
using the appropriate type and size of
needles for the fabric you're working
with. Different fabrics require different
needles.
 Thread Quality: Use good-quality thread
to prevent thread breakage and reduce
lint buildup in the machine.
 Avoid Overloading: Don't force your
machine to sew through heavy layers of
fabric or materials it's not designed for.
 This can strain the motor and cause
damage.
 Thread Cutter: Use the built-in thread
cutter rather than pulling the thread
forcefully, which can damage the
machine.
 Unplug When Not in Use: Always unplug
your sewing machine when you're done
sewing to prevent accidental starts and
save energy.
Fabric
-a material made by entwining fibers together.
Generally, a fabric is named after the fiber user
to manufacture it; some fabrics will even use a
blend of different fibers. The fabric is then
named depending on the fiber(s) used, its
pattern and texture and the production process
implemented. Some fabrics also consider where
the fibers originated from
I. Natural and Synthetic Fabrics
A. Natural fabrics -made from fibers that come
from plants, animals, or minerals. breathable
and comfortable but may wrinkle easily.
 Types:
1. Cotton: This widely-used natural fabric comes
from the cotton plant's fibers. It's soft,
breathable, and comfortable, making it suitable
for various clothing items like T-shirts and jeans.
2. Wool: sourced from sheep or other animals
like goats (cashmere) or rabbits (angora). It's
warm and insulating, making it ideal for
sweaters and winter wear.
3. Silk: produced by silkworms and is known for
its luxurious, smooth texture. It's often used for
elegant clothing, lingerie, and accessories.
4. Linen: made from the fibers of the flax plant.
It's lightweight and breathable, making it a good
choice for summer clothing like shirts and
dresses.
5. Ramie: a natural fiber from the Chinese nettle
plant. It's similar to linen, known for its strength
and resistance to wrinkles, and used in summer
clothing.
6. Tencel (Lyocell): made from sustainably
sourced wood pulp, often eucalyptus or beech.
It's soft, breathable, and eco-friendly, used for
clothing, bed linens, and more
7. Cork Fabric: Made from the bark of cork oak
trees, cork fabric is lightweight, eco-friendly, and
often used for accessories like wallets and bags.
8. Jute: a natural fiber made from the jute plant.
It's strong and often used in burlap sacks, as
well as some eco-friendly textiles.
9. Burlap (Hessian): a coarse, plain-woven fabric
made from jute, sisal, or other plant fibers. It's
commonly used in sacks, bags, and rustic home
decor.
10. Twill: a weave pattern rather than a specific
fiber. It's characterized by diagonal parallel ribs
or lines and is used in fabrics like denim and
chino.
11. Velvet: a luxurious fabric with a soft, dense
pile. It's made from various natural fibers,
including silk, cotton, or rayon, and is often used
in formalwear and upholstery.
12. Chiffon: a lightweight, sheer fabric made
from silk, cotton, or synthetic fibers. It's
commonly used in elegant, flowy garments and
eveningwear.
13. Muslin: a lightweight, breathable cotton
fabric often used for making test garments,
draping, and as a base for embroidery.
B. Synthetic fabrics, on the other hand, are man-
made and created from chemicals. They are
often durable and can have specific properties
like moisture-wicking or stretchiness, but they
may not be as breathable as natural fabrics.
 Types of Synthetic Fabrics:
1. Polyester: a versatile synthetic fabric known
for its durability and resistance to wrinkles and
moisture. It's used in a wide range of clothing
items, including sports jerseys and outdoor gear.
2. Nylon: strong and elastic, making it suitable
for active wear, hosiery, and even parachute
fabric due to its strength.
3. Spandex (Lycra): is incredibly stretchy and is
often blended with other fabrics to provide
elasticity. It's commonly found in athletic wear
and form-fitting garments.
4. Polypropylene: This synthetic fabric is
moisture-wicking and commonly used in base
layers and thermal wear for outdoor activities.
5. Acrylic: a synthetic fiber that mimics the
warmth and softness of wool. It's used in
sweaters, blankets, and faux fur items.
6. Rayon (Viscose): Rayon is derived from wood
pulp and is known for its softness and drape. It's
used in a variety of clothing items, including
blouses and dresses.
7. Microfiber: made of extremely fine synthetic
fibers. They are used in cleaning cloths,
sportswear, and some bedding due to their
lightweight and moisture-wicking properties.
8. Neoprene: a synthetic rubber fabric known
for its waterproof and insulating qualities. It's
commonly used in wetsuits and some
sportswear.
9. Vinyl: a synthetic material often used for
upholstery, raincoats, and artificial leather
goods.
10. Polyurethane (PU): used in faux leather
products, providing a leather-like appearance
and feel
11. Fleece: synthetic and known for its warmth
and softness, making it ideal for jackets,
blankets, and cold-weather accessories
II. Woven vs. Knitted
-two fundamental methods of textile
construction, each with distinct characteristics
A. Woven Fabrics: made up of two pieces of
yarn that interweave horizontally and vertically
on a loom. Since the yarn runs at a 45-degree
angle, the fabric doesn’t stretch and is usually
tauter and sturdier than knit fabrics
 Construction: Woven fabrics are made by
interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to
each other, typically a warp (lengthwise) and
weft (crosswise) yarn.
 Structure: They have a stable, structured
appearance with clear patterns, like plain
weave, twill, or satin. Examples include denim
and most dress shirts.
 Durability: Woven fabrics tend to be more
durable and less stretchy compared to knitted
fabrics. They can withstand wear and tear well.
 Breathability: Depending on the fibers used,
woven fabrics can be breathable and well-suited
for various climates.
 Tailoring: Woven fabrics are commonly used
for tailored garments like suits and formal
dresses due to their crisp and structured
appearance
* There are three types of woven fabric: plain
weave, satin weave and twill weave.
B. Knitted Fabrics: For knit fabric, think of a
hand-knit scar; the yarn is formed into an
interconnecting loop design, which allows it to
stretch significantly. Knit fabrics are known for
being elastic and keeping shape.
 Construction: Knitted fabrics are made by
interlocking loops of yarn, creating a flexible and
stretchy structure.
 Structure: They have a natural stretch and are
often used for items requiring elasticity, like T-
shirts, socks, and sweaters.
 Comfort: Knitted fabrics are comfortable to
wear due to their stretch and flexibility, allowing
ease of movement.
 Warmth: They can provide insulation and
warmth, making them suitable for coldweather
clothing.
 Casual Wear: Knitted fabrics are commonly
used in casual and sportswear due to their
comfort and ability to conform to the body's
shape.
*There are two types of knit fabric: warp-
knitted and weft-knitted.