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How the Mind Comes Into Being
How the Mind Comes
Into Being
Introducing Cognitive
Science from
a Functional
and Computational
Perspective
3
3
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v
To our families
Preface
More than 2000 years ago — maybe as the first humans in the world — Greek philosophers
have thought about the puzzling introspectively assessed dichotomy between our physical
bodies and our seemingly, non-physical, mental minds. How is it that we can think highly
abstract thoughts, seemingly fully detached from the actual, physical reality? Despite the
obvious interactions between mind and body (we get tired, we are hungry, we stay up late
despite being tired, etc.), until today it remains puzzling how our mind controls our body,
and vice versa, how our body shapes our mind.
This textbook focuses on the embodiment of the mind in all its facets. Many other
books on cognitive science focus on sensory information processing, motor output genera-
tion, reasoning, symbol processing, and language in separate rather disconnected chapters.
This book integrates these aspects of cognition sketching-out their interdependencies and
their potential ontogenetic (over a life-time) and phylogenetic (over centuries, millennia, and
beyond) development. As a consequence, after giving a multidisciplinary background on the
development of cognitive science as a research discipline, the book starts from an evolu-
tionary developmental perspective, shedding light on how behavior traits and genetic codes
may have developed on our earth. Next, we proceed with cognitive development during a
life-time, focusing on reinforcement learning and the development of flexible behavioral capa-
bilities by learning about and selecting amongst redundant alternative interactions with the
environment. An excursion into a functional perspective on the human brain then leads to
principles of perception and action generation, including the relations between these prin-
ciples, leading to multisensory and multi-information interactions. Processes of attention
and the different aspects of attentional processes then lead to principles of decision making,
language, and abstract thought. One goal of the book is thus to sketch-out a developmental
pathway towards higher, symbolic, abstract cognitive capabilities starting bottom-up with
principled processes of bodily representations and body control, offering a novel perspective
on cognitive science by taking a sensorimotor, integrative, embodied stance.
Meanwhile, the textbook offers a principled mathematical, functional, and algorithmic
background about the processes that apparently underly neurocognitive representations,
processes, adaptations, and learning in our brains. In particular, when considering phy-
logenetic, evolutionary development of the human mind, we introduce genetic algorithms
and their functionality, revealing potentially rather simple developmental pathways and
contrasting these with situations of highly unlikely evolutionary developments. Moving to
reward-oriented adaptations of behavior, reinforcement learning is introduced and analyzed
once again in terms of its capabilities and challenges. Interestingly, evolutionary learn-
ing algorithms appear to have much in common with a particular type of reinforcement
learning algorithm. We also show, nonetheless, that our behavior and behavioral decision
making cannot be purely reward-driven. We are able to make context-dependent decisions
and choose alternative environmental interactions given current circumstances. Thus, we
are highly flexible in our interactions with the environment. Where does the flexibility of
our mind come from? We show how it is possible to alter interactions on demand – so to
say, effectively doing what seems right given the current context – by means of abstract,
predictive models.
vii
viii PREFACE
With cognitive flexibility in mind, we then have a look at the current neuroscientific
knowledge from a functional perspective. Several of the rather dedicated modules in our
brain are then further evaluated and analyzed in further computationally-oriented detail.
In particular, we proceed by bottom-up visual information processing and the possibility
to include top-down influences into this processing stream. Once again computationally
oriented, we show how such interactive information processing can be accomplished by means
of Bayesian probability and predictive coding principles. The same principle also applies
when information from various sensors needs to be integrated into one fused percept of
both the environment and the own body. To interact flexibly and selectively with mental
concepts, attention for behavior needs to be enhanced to principles of internal attentional
processes, which select those mental representations that are currently most appealing. Once
again, the bottom-up processes are combined with top-down processes to guide information
processing for behavioral- and mental control.
Equal processes expand to principles of planning and decision making, for which an
embodied value system needs to be integrated, and finally to language and abstract thought.
Even with respect to language, computational principles can explain aspects of language
evolution, including benefits of communication, the need to individualize your conversation
partners, and principles of basic grammatical structures. Moreover, structures that are
highly suitable for accomplishing behavioral flexibility and enabling more complex planning
and decision making may determine the principle underlying the universal grammar, offer
solutions to the symbol grounding problem, and bootstrap the very flexible compositionality
offered by human languages.
In closing, we hope this book provides a new, intriguing perspective on cognitive science.
While being a textbook with educational contents, the book also aims at shedding light onto
the recent movement towards embodied cognitive science, offering answers to the questions
of what embodied cognitive science may mean and what it may imply.
Acknowledgments
This book would not have come into being without the help of many people, including our
families, friends, and many colleagues. Thank you for all the support and understanding.
As the first author, I would like to particularly thank my colleagues at the University of
Würzburg for supporting me during the time when I gave the lecture – upon which large
parts of the book are based on – for the first time in the summer term of 2008. In par-
ticular, professor Frank Puppe has encouraged me to present my perspective on artificial
intelligence and cognitive systems back then. Moreover, professor Joachim Hoffmann has
always provided his complete trust and support throughout my time at the University of
Würzburg and beyond that until now. I am immensely grateful for all the inspiring discus-
sions, comments, and constructive criticism throughout my career. Only due to his thorough
and farsighted work in cognitive psychology – and beyond that towards cognitive science
– have I understood and internalized the importance of predictions and anticipations for
cognition. I am equally in debt to professor David E. Goldberg for all his trust and support
throughout my time at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, IL (UIUC) and
beyond that. Due to the highly inspiring discussion and analytical sessions with him, I have
learned – amongst many other things – to appreciate the importance of understanding a
complex system’s functionality by means of facet-wise analysis. I would also like to thank
my colleagues at the University of Tübingen for supporting my work here in many ways.
Finally, I would like to thank my wife for her understanding for all the late nights and her
continuous support, and my kids for always welcoming me home and reminding me in their
beautiful ways that a very important part of life has nothing to do with research.
As the second author, I would like to express my deepest gratitude to Martin for all
the trust and support he put in me. In countless passionate and constructive discussions
with him he helped me understand how to see and forge links between all the different
aspects of cognitive science. During the past years in his team I have internalized the
PREFACE ix
impact and importance of a holistic, unifying understanding of cognition in all its facets. I
am immensely grateful that he offered me this unique opportunity to become coauthor of
this book. Finally, I am so grateful to my family, who provided me with unfailing support
and continuous encouragement throughout the project.
Comments and suggestions for the actual book came from numerous people. We found
the enthusiasm that was returned when we detailed the planned book’s content particularly
encouraging. Several anonymous reviewers from OUP have provided very useful suggestions
including to keep a balanced perspective, which is hopefully maintained successfully. More-
over, we would like to thank the Cognitive Modeling team for reading book chapters and
providing very useful contents suggestions. We are particularly grateful also for PD Oliver
Herbort, who managed to give detailed and highly valuable comments on the first chapters
in these busy times. Moreover, we would like to thank Carolyn Kinney for proofreading
the book in immense detail and very thoroughly and also Kenneth Kinney for his detailed
proofreading effort.
In closing, we would like to thank professor Harold Bekkering, professor Wayne Gray, and
professor Karl Friston for their wonderful book endorsements and all the support beyond
that. We very much hope, of course, that the book will be well-received by many other
researchers, students, and anybody with the longing to understand “how our minds come
into being.”
Contents
Preface vii
3 Cognition is Embodied 45
3.1 Computers and intelligence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
3.2 What is intelligence anyway? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
3.2.1 Early conceptualizations of intelligence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
3.2.2 Further differentiations of intelligence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
3.3 Symbolic artificial intelligence and its limitations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
3.3.1 Symbolic problem solving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
3.3.2 Symbolic linguistic processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
3.4 Hard challenges for symbolic processing systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
3.4.1 Symbol grounding problem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
3.4.2 Frame problem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
3.4.3 Binding problem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
3.5 Neural networks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
3.6 Embodied intelligence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
3.6.1 Embodied biological processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
xi
xii CONTENTS
11 Attention 255
11.1 Introduction and overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
11.2 Top-down and bottom-up attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
11.3 Phenomena of attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
11.3.1 Visual search . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
11.3.2 Attention over time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
11.3.3 Change blindness and inattentional blindness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
11.3.4 Other attentional capabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
11.4 Models of attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
11.4.1 Qualitative models of attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
11.4.2 Bundesen’s theory of visual attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
11.4.3 Saliency maps and eye saccades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
11.4.4 Dynamic neural fields of attention . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
11.5 Summary and outlook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
11.6 Exercises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
References 345
Index 367
List of Figures
3.1 Necker Cube and Rubin Vases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
3.2 Navon Figures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
3.3 Braitenberg Vehicles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
3.4 Didabots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
7.1 Information flow sketch during visual-based motor decision making . . . . . . 156
7.2 Neural cell body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
7.3 Neural cellular boundary interactions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
7.4 Action potential dynamics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
7.5 Synaptic interactions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
7.6 Anatomical terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
7.7 Basic brain anatomy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
7.8 Brodmann areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
7.9 Annotated cross-section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
7.10 Brain area function map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
7.11 Six-layered neocortex structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
7.12 Primary homunculi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
7.13 Neuronal tuning in visual and temporal cortical cells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
7.14 Brain imaging techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
xvii
xviii LIST OF FIGURES
12.1 Wirings from and to motor- and pre-frontal cortical areas . . . . . . . . . . . 283
xix
Chapter 1
1.1 Introduction
Over the last twenty years or so it has become increasingly clear that purely symbolic ap-
proaches to cognitive science, as well as to artificial intelligence are insufficient to grasp the
intricate beauty of our minds. We are able to draw analogies and understand metaphors
that go far beyond symbolic forms of representations and associations between them. For
example, we immediately understand a phrase such as our “circle of friends”, although our
friends never really come together in a circle or form a circle. Nonetheless, the term “circle”
suggests that our group of friends forms a close and interactive, circular relationship. Simi-
larly, we understand the phrase “grasping an idea”, although an idea is not a physical object
that can be grasped with our hands. Nonetheless, “grasping” suggests in this context that
we got hold of an idea and can thus handle it, manipulate it, and think about it.
Thousands of examples can be made in this respect (Bergen, 2012; Johnson, 1987; Lakoff,
1987; Lakoff & Johnson, 1999), suggesting that our brain cannot be a symbol processing
machine. Rather, it seems that our brain may be characterized as a highly distributed,
parallel, neuro-dynamic system. The problem with this latter characterization, however, is
that the functionality of such a system is very hard to imagine. How are analogies understood
or drawn by such a system? How can metaphors be understood by a highly distributed,
parallel neuro-dynamic cognitive architecture?
Analogy making, but also many other examples of innovative and intricate, interactive
thoughts, and behavior have led to the development of embodied approaches to cognition.
This turn to embodiment, indeed, has established itself or has at least been discussed in
various disciplines, including philosophy, neuroscience, psychology, artificial intelligence, and
the overarching field of cognitive science. Although an embodied mind that is grounded
in sensorimotor experiences may sound appealing, many open questions remain: What
are the implications of an embodied mind? How may embodied, sensorimotor processes
and representations lead to suitable abstractions and thus “higher-level” cognition? How
embodied is the human mind really?
The aim of this cognitive science textbook is to shed light on these questions by in-
troducing the basic concepts that constitute embodied cognitive science, and sketching-out
relations of these concepts and their involvement in shaping our human minds.
Two particularly puzzling facts are discussed in this chapter to further motivate the
need for embodied cognitive science approaches: the fact that the brain controls the body
and the second fact that, vice-versa, the body controls the brain. In order to establish
this symbiosis, embodied cognitive science suggests that the body and the surrounding
world in which we grow up and live in shapes the brain such that effective, bidirectional
body–brain interactions become possible. In order for us to understand such interactions
and implications on a deeper level, we strongly stress that cognitive science needs also to be
approached by means of computational techniques in the pursuit of a functional perspective.
1
2 CHAPTER 1. EMBODIED COGNITIVE SCIENCE
each of us grows up, which each of us experiences, and which each of us actively explores
given individual behavioral capabilities, cognitive priorities, and environmental stimulations.
body and the right brain, with sufficient computational capacity and suitable structuring, to
develop the cognitive capabilities of a healthy human. Moreover, it appears that evolution
has laid out a suitable developmental pathway, along which body and mind co-develop. The
chapter thus first provides information about cognitive psychological development. Next, it
details evolutionary mechanisms and provides technical details on how evolution appears to
work from a computational perspective, highlighting its capabilities, as well as its limits. In
conclusion, the paper sketches-out how much evolution may have contributed to human cog-
nition and how actual human cognition appears to develop, co-determined by evolutionary
predispositions during ontogenesis.
Cognitive development goes hand-in-hand with behavioral development, such that Chap-
ters 5 and 6 consider development in detail focusing on behavior. Chapter 5 considers
reward-dependent learning, covering psychological learning theories as well as theories from
machine learning. In particular, the Rescorla–Wagner model is related to reinforcement
learning (RL). RL is then introduced in detail, contrasting model-based with model-free
RL, as well as value-function learning with direct, policy gradient-oriented behavioral opti-
mization. In the end, we ask the question how far we can get with RL and related techniques,
and we acknowledge that in order to be able to act flexibly, goal-directed dependent on the
current circumstances, and in order to develop a form of “understanding” of body and envi-
ronment, knowledge about action effects and thus predictive forward models are needed.
As a consequence, Chapter 6 contrasts different types of forward models and sketches-
out some typical learning techniques. More importantly, though, the chapter focuses on
the realization of flexible, anticipatory, goal-directed behavior, which is only possible by
forward model-based predictions and forward model inversions. Model-based predictions
enable forward anticipations, including information filtering, the generation of surprise, and
the identification of external entities and agents. The inverse application of forward models
results in goal-oriented, active inference and can thus generate highly flexible, dexterous
behavioral decision making and control processes.
With the help of the neuroscience overview provided in Chapter 7, sensory processing
is then considered in detail. Chapter 8 points out that visual processing undergoes a hier-
archical cascade of processing stages, extracting redundant and complementary aspects of
information about one’s own body and the environment from the visual stream. Different
information aspects typically contributed in different manners to the extraction about what
is going on in the outside environment, providing information about depth, surfaces, edges,
colors, motion, and so forth.
Chapter 9 then focuses on the interaction of bottom-up, incoming sensory information
with top-down expectations about this information. In particular, Bayesian, generative,
graphical models are introduced. Along these lines, it is also emphasized that predictions
can be forward in time, expecting changes due to motion and forces, but also top-down,
expecting corresponding information, such as incoming sensory information. The internal
estimations about the outside environment appear to dynamically change over time and they
adapt to the experienced regularities in the sensory information. Current models of visual
processing thus emphasize the interaction of top-down spatial and feature predictions with
bottom-up, incoming sensory information. This interactive information processing principle
is also the reason for various types of illusions, some-of-which are surveyed in the end of this
chapter.
After having considered a single sensory stream in detail, Chapter 10 emphasizes mul-
tisensory interactions, where multiple sensory modalities provide once again redundant and
complementary sources of information about body and environment. Thus, generally, sim-
ilar information processing principles apply as for single sensory processing. However, it
is emphasized that the learning of multisensory information first needs to focus on learn-
ing the structure of the own body, to be able to transform modal sensory information into
other modalities posture-dependently. To enable flexible information transformations, the
brain appears to learn multiple spatial encodings and spatial transformations. These enable
not only the effective correlation of multimodal sensory information, but also the effective
1.7. BOOK OVERVIEW 7
filtering of own bodily motion, as well as robust object and behavior recognition. Besides
body-relative spatial encodings, also multisensory cognitive maps develop, which support
behavioral planning and decision making in navigational tasks.
With the knowledge of all these types of multisensory information, their flexible correla-
tions across frames of reference, the involved spatial encodings, and the Gestalt encodings
in hand, the focus then falls on attention in Chapter 11. Attention is essentially necessary
to enable the selection of and focus on those information aspects that are currently behav-
iorally relevant. Seeing that we are, so-to-say, continuously bombarded with a huge amount
of sensory information, it appears that our brain needs to filter most of it in order to enable
the execution of focused, goal-oriented planning, decision making, and control processes.
Starting with psychological phenomena of visual attention, we point-out that world is its
own best model, such that attention needs to direct cognitive resources only to those aspects
of the environment that seem relevant. Dynamic neural fields and dynamic Bayesian infor-
mation processing are good candidates to realize such attention-based, focused information
processing.
One of the most important questions with respect to cognition, however, is how attention
decides on what is actually relevant. Chapter 12 shows how this relevance determination is
grounded in motor control. Motor control in our brain is, similar to visual information pro-
cessing, structured in a cascade of interactive processing loops. As a result, higher cognitive
processes do not need to fully control or even plan each individual muscle twitch; rather,
they can focus on higher-level planning, action decision making, and action control. On this
higher-level, segmentations of environmental interactions into events and event transitions
become important. Events can be characterized as a short or extended period of time dur-
ing which particular interactions take place. Event transitions are those cases where these
particular interactions change significantly. With suitable segmentations in hand, hierar-
chical planning and abstract, action- and event-oriented decision making becomes possible.
Moreover, relevance becomes determined by means of encoding events, event transitions,
and conditional structures, which specify when an event or event transition can typically
take place.
With such behavior-oriented abstractions in hand, finally, language comes into play.
After providing a short overview over the most important language components, Chapter 13
focuses on how language may be grounded in behavior and the abstractions of behavior for
enabling, goal-directed, hierarchical action decision making and control. It turns out that
there are several indicators that Chomsky’s generative universal grammar, may actually be
grounded in an action grammar, from which progressively higher abstractions can develop.
Following the path of language development, we then put forward how language enables
a new means to think about the environment, including other humans, animals, and also
the self, opening up a new level of cognition. Meanwhile, the symbol-grounding problem
is solved by grounding word meanings in the sensorimotor experiences, as well as in the
other, already gathered linguistic experiences. Language and cognitive control by means of
language thus essentially enables to think on a linguistic level, which is closely tied to the
experiences gathered, but which nonetheless enables the detachment of thought from actual,
concrete experiences. Thus, the human mind has come into being.
In the concluding chapter, we highlight several important aspects that should have re-
ceived more detailed coverage. We relate them to the mechanisms, processes, encodings,
and their interactions put forward in this book, and thus hope to put them into perspective.
Finally, we summarize the book’s overall point on how the mind comes into being and dare
a glimpse at highly relevant future research directions.
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cents up, and club lunches, with an ample selection of good things to
eat, for fifty or sixty cents. You may pay more for your room and
bath, but you get more for your money, with better service. We made
it a rule to go to the newest, largest hotels, and indulge in every
comfort that was afforded. Why? Not to be extravagant, nor to say
that we had stopped at such or such hotels. After you have driven
day after day, and come in stiff and tired, there is no bed too soft and
no bathroom too luxurious to overrest your mind and body.
Economize in other ways if you must, but not on good food and
comfortable lodgings.
Our third day was still a drizzle; we would no sooner have the
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curtains as well. Our objective point was the charmingly quaint town
of Bedford, and the Bedford Arms. This part of Pennsylvania was
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day’s run was a pleasure.
I have not spoken of our lunches, a most important item by one
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we were positive that a good place to eat was midway on the road,
we prepared a lunch, or had the hotel put one up for us. This latter
plan proved both expensive and unsatisfactory. Usually Toodles was
sent foraging to the delicatessen shops for fresh rolls, cold meats
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hotel filled our thermos-bottles with hot coffee. We carried salt and
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marmalade, or a fruit jam, in the hamper, and beyond that we took
no staple supplies on the whole trip. We met so many people who
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utensils, we have seen stoves, sewing-machines, crates of tinned
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strapped to the back and sides and even on the top of the car, and
usually the personal luggage jammed in between the mud-guards
and hood of the engine. A traveling circus is an orderly, compact
miniature in comparison. And the people!—sitting on top of a
mountain of baggage, or under it, the picture of woe and discomfort.
That may be fun, but I fear I have not developed a capacity for such
pleasure. Have you ever seen a party of this description unpack and
strike camp after a hot, broiling, dusty day of hard travel? You will do
as we did—drive right ahead until you come to a clean hotel and a
bath.
We have been told so often that one has to develop an “open-
air” spirit to really enjoy a long motor trip! Quite true! I can’t imagine
what the fun can be of touring in a closed limousine, and yet we
have met that particularly exclusive party more than once. On the
whole, an absence of flies, ants, mosquitoes, and sand and dust in
one’s bed and food does not detract from the pleasure of the trip. It
may be all right to endure such annoyances for a few days in the
woods, to fish or hunt—but weeks and more weeks of it! We admit
our “lack,” whatever it may be termed, and enjoy clean linen, hot
tubs, and tables that have legs not belonging to ants and spiders.
In Wisconsin we met a most unique and charming couple, both
past fifty, who had lived all over the world, even in South America, a
Mr. X and wife, from Washington, D. C. They were going on the
same route as we were, and back to Washington, via southern
California, the Yosemite, New Mexico, New Orleans, and then north.
So their trip would be twice as long as ours. They loved the open,
with that two-ton-equipment enthusiasm excelling all others we had
met. From an over-stocked medicine chest, so carefully stowed
away that they bought what they wanted en route rather than unload
everything to try to find it, to a complete wardrobe for every
occasion, which was never unpacked, they had every conceivable
utensil that a well-furnished apartment could boast of. They even
bought a small puppy, as a protection at night when camping; the
poor little beast caught cold and crawled under the pile and died.
They solved the lunch problem in a unique way. If they passed a
good corn-field, they “procured” a few ears and stopped at the next
farmhouse and calmly asked the loan of the kitchen for a short time,
and cooked their corn and bought bread and milk, etc. Mrs. X
remarked: “It is all so simple! We have all these things in case we
should need them, but they are so well packed in the car it is really
too bad to disturb them; so I live in one gown, and we buy what we
need, and it is most satisfactory.” Later we learned that they had
camped out just three nights in several weeks.
But I have digressed, and left you at the Bedford Arms, one of
the most artistic, attractive inns that we found. The little touches
showed a woman’s hand. Flowers everywhere, dainty cretonnes,
willow furniture, and pretty, fine china; in appearance, courtesy, and
efficiency, the maids in the dining-room might have come from a
private dwelling. Will someone tell me why there are not more such
charming places to stop at on our much-traveled main highways.
Why must hotel men buy all the heavy, hideous furniture, the
everlasting red or green carpets and impossible wall-paper, to make
night hideous for their guests—to say nothing of the pictures on their
walls? It is a wonder one can sleep.
There is much of interest to see in Bedford—really old, artistic
houses, not spoiled by modern gewgaws, set in lovely gardens of
old-fashioned flowers, neatly trimmed hedges, and red brick walks.
There were few early Victorian eyesores to mar the general beauty
of the town. As we were walking down the main street about sunset,
we heard a great chattering and chirping, as if a thousand birds were
holding a jubilee. Looking up, we found, on a projecting balcony
running along the front of all the buildings for two blocks, hundreds of
martins discussing the League of Nations and Peace Treaty quite as
vigorously as were their senatorial friends in Washington. They were
fluttering about and making a very pretty picture. It sounded like the
bird market in Paris on a Sunday morning, which, in passing, is an
interesting sight that few tourists ever see.
It was with regret that we left the next morning for Pittsburgh.
The day was clear and cool and the best part of the Lincoln Highway
was before us; in fact, the first real thrill so far, and one of the high
spots of the trip. This was a stretch of seven and a half miles of
tarvia road on the top ridge of the Alleghany Mountains, as smooth
as marble, as straight as the bee flies, looking like a strip of satin
ribbon as far as the eye could see. On both sides were deep ravines,
well wooded, and valleys green with abundant crops, and still higher
mountains rising in a haze of blue and purple coloring, making a
picture that would never be forgotten. The top was down and we
stopped the car again and again, to drink it in, and, as one of us
remarked, “We may see more grand and rugged scenery later on,
but we shall not see anything more beautiful than this”—and it
proved true.
We had come 442 miles, from New York to Pittsburgh, over fine
roads and through beautiful country. Approaching Pittsburgh, we
came in on a boulevard overlooking the river and “valley of smoke.”
Great stacks were belching out soot and smoke, obliterating the city
and even the sky and sun. They may have a smoke ordinance, but
no one has ever heard of it. We arrived at the William Penn Hotel, in
the heart of the business center of the city, a first-class, fine hotel in
every regard. We found the prices reasonable for the excellent
service afforded, which was equal to that of any New York hotel. The
dining-room, on the top of the house, was filled with well-dressed
people, and we were glad that we had unpacked our dinner clothes,
and appeared less like the usual tourist, in suits and blouses. It was
frightfully hot during our two days’ stay. You go out to drive feeling
clean and immaculate, and come in with smuts and soot on your
face and clothes, looking like a foundry hand. The office buildings
are magnificent, and out a bit in the parks and boulevards the homes
are attractive, and many are very handsome, especially in Sewickley.
But aside from the dirty atmosphere one is impressed mostly by the
evidences of the outlay of immense wealth. An enthusiastic brother
living there took us through a number of the business blocks, and
told us of the millions each cost and the almost unbelievable amount
of business carried on. I can only describe Pittsburgh as the
proudest city we visited. Not so much of the actual wealth
represented, but of what the billions had accomplished in great
industries. We went out in the evening and stood on one of the
bridges to look over the river lined with monster furnaces. The air
was filled with sparks, jets of flame bursting through the smoke. All
you could think of was Dante’s Inferno visualized. And what of the
men who spend their lives in that lurid atmosphere, never knowing if
the sun shone, nor what clean, pure air was like in their working
hours? I shall never look at a steel structure again without giving
more credit to the men who spend their waking hours in those hells
of heat and smoke than to the men whose millions have made it
possible.
The second day, nothing daunted by the heat, we went out to the
St. Clair Country Club for lunch and golf, about a twenty-mile run
through the suburbs. This is a comparatively small and new club, but
our host told us that they were soon to have a fine club-house and
improve the links. The location is attractive, and the luncheon was
delicious. We had brought our golf bags, tennis racquets, and
bathing suits with us, much to the amusement of our friends. After
sitting in the car day in and day out, I know of no better way to
stretch your legs and arms and to exercise your stiff muscles than to
put in a few hours at either game. My husband described this course
thus: “You have to hold on to a tree with one hand and drive with the
other, the bally course is so steep.” There are many more
pretentious country clubs and golf links about Pittsburgh, but this
small one had charm and a homelike atmosphere. Our last evening
we were taken to the “New China,” the last word in Chinese
restaurants—beautiful, clean, and artistic! You have your choice of
American or Chinese dishes. As we were looking for sensations, we
ordered some marvelous dishes with impossible names. One portion
was sufficient for three hungry people. The other two portions were
untouched. I do not know what we ate, but it was delicious. Truth
compels me to state that we were all ill for three days, and decided
to patronize home cooking in the future.
We did not get away until noon the next day, as our auto top had
been torn in the garage, and the manager kept out of sight until
noon, and then, after considerable pressure had been brought to
bear, he made a cash settlement of fifteen dollars, wishing us all the
bad luck his “Mutt and Jeff” mind could conjure.
III
ON TO CHICAGO