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Guaxinin - Eng - Sankatoys
Guaxinin - Eng - Sankatoys
This pattern does not contain the basics of crocheting, but rather requires certain crochet skills. The complexity
of the description is medium+.
This pattern is for personal use only. Please do not distribute, reproduce, share or sell this pattern.
You may publish (on the network) and sell finished items made with this pattern, but only in small quantities,
provided you credit me as the original designer.
Supplies:
- Yarn:
You can use any yarn that is comfortable and/or suitable for you.
I used Alize Kid Royal (mohair/polyamid, 50g ~ 500m, in 2 threads!!, 32sс = 4 inches). Colors: grey, black, white.
Sweater: «Slonim» yarn (acrylic, 50g ~ 200m, Belarus, thin the thread in a half, 45sс = 4 inches) or «Iris» (cotton,
10g ~ 82m). Colors – light blue, white. Black and white yarn (eg. floss) to embroider elements of face.
The size of the raccoon is about 11cm (when seated 9.5cm).
- Hook №1.5, sweater: hook №1
- Mount (can be replaced with any type of mount you are used to):
legs - buttons size 16mm 2pcs (paste into leg side), 16mm 2pcs (paste into body side)
neck - buttons size 14mm 1pc (paste into body side), 16mm 1pc (paste into head side)
- 13cm one piece of wire (for arms), 11cm one piece of wire (for tail)
- Fiberfill (to stuff)
- Glue or sewn eyes (7mm)
- Safety nose (12x8mm)
- Needle, safety pins, scissors, glue (Moment Crystal), thin stick (for the convenience of stuffing small parts).
Abbreviations:
MR - magic ring;
in BL - work in the back loops;
ch - chain stitch;
slst - slip stitch;
sc - single crochet;
hdc - half double crochet;
dc - double crochet;
dec - decrease;
inc - increase;
hdc-inc – half double crochet increase;
dc-inc – double crochet increase;
(sc, inc) х N - repeat instructions ‘N’ times;
(sc+hdc) – crochet sc and hdc in the same ch base (in one ch);
*comment*
– additional actions and / or explanations; for example ‘move the marker’;
*in base of ‘ch to climb’*
sc – crochet additional single crochet at the end of the row into base loop of ‘chain to climb’;
[N] - the number of stitches in this row (if the row with ‘chain to climb’ this count includes it)
continuous round - crochet all followed, without closing the rounds;
joined round - go closing every rounds and climb to the next turn with a chain (chain to climb);
Working in continuous rounds, unless otherwise specified in the recommendations. The chain to climb is
considered one single crochet.
Ears
back and front parts use one loop from back side result, then brush
and both loops from front side
foot curve
Grey color.
1r. – starting from the middle of the heel, (sc, inc) along O2, (inc, sc, inc) along O1, inc along О2 [10]
right left
3r. – 5sc, (2sc, inc)х3 [17] 3r. – sc, (inc,2sc)х3, 4sc [17]
4-6r. – 17sc
7r. – 8sc, (sc, dec)х3 [14] 7r. – 4sc, (dec, sc)х3, 4sc [14]
Finish stuffing. Close the hole, fasten and cut off. Brush.
- make small loops at the ends of the wire then wrap it with adhesive tape
(in this way sharp end of the wire does not come out and the wire cannot
slip inside the tail).
12r. – 2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc [30]
Place the legs between 6th and 7th rows side by side. The legs must be visually at the
same distance from the center (and a little closer to the back).
Stuff with a filler (only bottom part of the body).
13r. – 30sc
14r. – 2sc, dec, 5sc, dec, sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 2sc [24]
15r. – 6sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 6sc [22]
16-17r. – 22sc
Attach hands and body together.
Attach and sew, 4sc long (6sc of every hand is free, pay attention to the scheme and photo).
*to correct ma rker position*
18r. – sc ,
2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec [21]
sew
sew
- curve the wire, insert the second end of the wire into the second
hand, stuff arm a little (to make it easier to stuff, bend the arm, then
you can push the filler through the top using a thin stick)
Tail: insert the end of the wire between 5th and 6th rows. Sew.
! Use joined round for white muzzle (climb to the next turn with a chain). - here put safety nose
- make sculpting;
top points are between 4th and 5th rows (distance between them ~6sc) 2 3
bottom point is between 9th and 10th rows (near the neck)
Sculpting steps:
begin from point 1 from point 1 to point 2 from point 2 back to point 1 from point 1 to point 3
White color.
Begin from the 2nd hdc of the 3rd row (red color on the scheme).
1r. – ch to climb, sc, inc, 2hdc-inc, sc, slst
Leave a tail (of the yarn) for sewing.
Brush.
sew white part with white yarn, black part with black yarn, glue eyes, embroider the semicircle beside the eyes with white yarn
correct the brushing
Ears:
17-18
8sc 14-15
distance between them 8sc rows, between which sew white corners with white yarn, other parts with grey yarn,
the points are located correct the brushing
White color.
Pick up: 1ch (‘А’) + ch to climb;
1r. – 6sc in ‘А’. Don’t close the row. Underlip looks like semicircle.
Leave a tail (of the yarn) for sewing. Brush (a little).
Attach another thread (№2) to the bottom (use more stronger smooth yarn, eg. floss).
stretch the ends of the thread №2 tie the ends of the thread to a knot sew top part using thread №1
behind the nose correct the brushing
!
Be careful with reading the BACK loops of the previous row. If you crochet
correctly, the rubber band will begin to form segments.
! On the next page you can see the lesson how to calculate the number of
loops and rows for a sweater)
Change your yarn color to light blue. Now you can use continuous rounds.
*O1* *O2*
7r. – 23sc, pick up 3ch skip 15sc, 22sc, pick up 3ch skip 15sc
begin to crochet the 7 th row 7 th row - form the slots for future sleeves
Sleeves.
1r. – 15sc, 3sc along O1 (or along O2 for the 2nd sleeve) [18]
2-7r. – 18sc
8r. – Change your yarn color to white, in BL: 18sc
If you crochet a toy and/or a sweater using another yarn, then of course the size can be different.
How to choose the size of the sweater for your finished toy?
1. - Crochet the elastic part to the size you need (the sweater will be put on through the legs, crochet the elastic
part until length is enough for the toy body to push through, do not make it too free, the elastic part stretches
over time).
In my case, I crocheted 30 segments (not so free, but the body can push through, this is what we need).
2. - Crochet a pattern to know the yarn gauge (for example, a piece size 20sc x 10rows).
In my case, the gauge is: 20sc ~ 4.5cm, 10rows ~ 2cm.
3. - Carry out the following measurements and transfer them to the number of sc and rows:
In my case:
arm girth A 4cm (~ 18sc)
tummy girth B 11.5cm (~ 51sc)
sleeve length C 3cm (~ 15rows)
sweater length D 2.6cm (~ 13rows)
armpit distance E 1.4cm (~ 7rows)
Now we have all the necessary measurements and based on them we can build a sweater scheme.
For armpits I picked up 3 loops (this is enough for a small toy, if you have a larger toy, take more loops).
15sc
15sc
23sc and for the front 22sc), the girth of each sleeve is 18sc (A = 3loops armpit
+ 15sc).
So before separation into sleeves and body our crochet canvas should be 75sc 23sc
long (23+15+22+15=75).