PAINTS AND

FINISHES
PAINTS
 TOOLS FOR PAINTING
1. PAINT BRUSH
SIZE (WIDTH): 3/4” 1” 1 ½” 2” 2 ½” 3” 3 ½” 4”
6”
2. PUTT Y KNIFE – used for application of putty
3. SAND PAPER – these are sold in sheets (bond
paper sizes) or in rolls/yards
THICK: #60, # 80, #100
THIN: #120, #140, #160
4. ROLLER
A. 4” length x approx. 1 ¼” diameter
B. 7” & 9” length x approx. 2” diameter
MASONRY
SURFACES
PAINTS
SURFACE PREPARATION: NEW MASONRY

Let dry for 14 to 28 days before painting

Apply Masonry Neutralizer (1:16 with water)

Let dry over night

Sand surface to remove white crystals and

other contaminants adhering to the surface
PAINTS
OVER SKIMCOAT PLASTERING
Checklist:
Interior or Exterior use

Curing Time

Paint Compatibility

Required Preparation
PAINTS
SURFACE PREPARATION: MASONRY REPAINTING

Remove loose, blistering and scaling

paint

Treat any mold or fungi infection using a

fungicidal wash solution or household
bleach solution (1:3 with water)

Check paint compatibility

 COMMON FINISHES FOR
CONCRETE/PLASTERED SURFACES
 Latex – 3 Types: Flat, Semi‐Gloss and Gloss
Sold per: 1/4Liter, 1 Liter, 1 Gallon, 1 Tin
Applied by using: brush, any type of roller
Thinner: Water
Pigment: Latex Color/Acry‐color; sold by: 60mL, 1/4Liter,
1 liter, 1 gallon
Putty: Patching Compound mixed with Flat latex paint
(cheapest, sold by kilos)
Gypsum Putty: either paste‐type which is sold per gallon
or pail, or powder‐type which is sold per 20kg.
Sack/bag
Acrytex Cast by Boysen – this putty is recommended for
exterior application, originally used as putty for Textured
Finish
 COMMON FINISHES FOR
CONCRETE/PLASTERED SURFACES

Rubber Epoxy – commonly used for floorings

of parking areas, sports facilities,
maintenance areas, hallways of service areas
Sold per: 1 Liter, 1 Gallon, 1 Tin
Applied by using: brush, any type of roller,
spray
Thinner: Lacquer Thinner
Pigment: None
Putty: Body Filler “Polituff with hardener”
 COMMON FINISHES FOR
CONCRETE/PLASTERED SURFACES

Textured Finish
Sold per: 1 Gallon
Applied by using: mortar gun
Thinner: Water Pigment: Latex
Color/Acry‐color; sold by: 60mL, 1/4Liter,
1 liter, 1 gallon
Putty: Acrytex Cast by Boysen – this putty
is recommended for exterior
application
 WOOD
SURFACES
PAINTS
SURFACE PREPARATION: NEW WOODEN SURFACE

Only use kiln dried wood

Sand rough wood until smooth

Countersink nail heads for putty application

Dust off surfaces and wipe with a clean rag

 COMMON FINISHES FOR WOOD
SURFACES
 Varnish Finish (Opaque) – use this if you don’t intend
to show the grain of the wood such as plywoods or
plyboards.
Applied by using: brush, baby roller, spray ( best)
Thinner: Lacquer Thinner
 Varnish Finish (Clear) ‐ use this if you intend to show
the grain of the wood like for narra planks,
kamagong, etc.
“Natural Varnish Finish”
Applied by using: brush, baby roller, spray ( best)
Thinner: Lacquer Thinner
 COMMON FINISHES FOR WOOD
SURFACES

Enamel
QDE – Quick Drying Enamel – with gloss
Flatwall Enamel – no gloss
Sold per: ¼ liter, 1 liter, 1 Gallon
Applied by using: brush, baby roller
Thinner: Paint thinner
Pigment: Tinting Color – this is added to
the white‐QDE to produce another color or
hue.
Sold per: 60mL, 1/4Liter, 1 liter, 1 gallon
 COMMON FINISHES FOR WOOD
SURFACES

Automotive Type – “Duco Finish”

Acrylic Type – recommended for
outdoors, also used for pre‐painted
roofings or automobiles; can also be
used for indoors
Lacquer Type ‐ recommended for
indoors
Sold per ¼ liter, 1 liter, 1 gallon
 METAL
SURFACES
PAINTS
SURFACE PREPARATION: NEW G.I.SURFACES

Wipe surface with rag soaked in paint

thinner

Etch surface with metal etching solution

(1:9 with clean water)
PAINTS
SURFACE PREPARATION: RUSTED METAL

Scrape rust by wire brushing and then

sand thoroughly
Apply metal etching solution
Let stay for about 10 to 15 minutes
Wash thoroughly with clean water
Solvent wipe using thinners
Let dry then immediately apply primer
 COMMON FINISHES FOR STEEL

 Epoxy Enamel – best finish for steel or other metals;

same method of application as for wood surfaces
except that the Body filler is the only putty for use
Sold per: 1 Gallon
Applied by using: Brush, roller, spray
Thinner: Lacquer
Pigment: None, all epoxy paint has its own
pigment such red, green, etc
Putty: Body Filler
 Automotive ‐ same method of application as for
wood surfaces except that the Body filler is the only
putty for use
COMMON
PAINT
DEFECTS
 ALLIGATORING
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Application of an extremely
hard, rigid coating, like an
alkyd enamel, over a more
flexible coating, like a latex
primer.
 Application of a top coat before
 Patterned cracking in the undercoat is dry. Natural
the surface of the aging of oil-based paints as
paint film resembling temperatures fluctuate. The
the regular scales of constant expansion and
an alligator. contraction results in a loss of
paint film elasticity.
 ALLIGATORING
SOLUTION:
 Old paint should be completely removed
by scraping and sanding the surface; a
heat gun can be used to speed work on
large surfaces, but take care to avoid
igniting paint or substrate. The surface
should be primed with high quality latex
or oil-based primer, then painted with a
top quality exterior latex paint.
 BLISTERING
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Painting a warm surface in direct
sunlight.
 Application of oil-based or alkyd
paint over a damp or wet surface.
 Moisture escaping through the
exterior walls (less likely with
latex paint than with oil-based or
 Bubbles resulting alkyd paint).
from localized loss of
 Exposure of latex paint film to
adhesion, and lifting dew, high humidity or rain shortly
of the paint film after paint has dried, especially if
from the underlying there was inadequate surface
surface. preparation.
 BLISTERING
SOLUTION:
If blisters go down to the substrate: try to
remove the source of moisture. Repair loose
caulking; consider installing vents or exhaust
fans. Remove blisters.
If blisters do not go all the way down to the
substrate: remove them by scraping, then
sanding, prime bare wood and repaint with a
quality latex exterior paint.
CHALKING
 Formation of fine powder on
the surface of the paint film
during weathering which can
cause color fading. Although
some degree of chalking is a
normal, desirable way for a
paint film to wear, excessive
film erosion can result from
heavy chalking.
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Use of a low -grade, highly
pigmented paint.
 Use of an interior paint for an
outdoor application.
 CHALKING
SOLUTION:
 First, remove as much of the chalk residue as
possible, scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush (or wire
brush on masonry) and then rinse thoroughly; or use
power washing equipment.
 Check for any remaining chalk by running a hand
over the surface after it dries. If noticeable chalk is
still present, apply a quality oil -based or acrylic latex
primer (or comparable sealer for masonry), then
repaint with a quality exterior coating; if little or no
chalk remains and the old paint is sound, no priming
is necessary.
 CRACKING/FLAKING
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Use of a lower quality that has
inadequate adhesion and
flexibility.
 Over thinning the paint or
spreading it too thin. Poor
surface preparation, especially
 The splitting of a dr y paint when the paint is applied to
film through at least one
coat, which will lead to bare wood without priming.
complete failure of the paint.
Early on, the problem appear s
 Painting under cool or windy
as hairline cracks; later, conditions that make latex
flaking of paint chips occur s.
paint dry too fast.
 CRACKING/FLAKING
SOLUTION:
It may be possible to correct cracking that
does not go down to the substrate by
removing the loose or flaking paint with a
scraper or wire brush, sanding to feather the
edges, priming any bare spots and repainting.
If the cracking goes down to the substrate
remove all of the paint by scraping, sanding
and/or use of a heat gun; then prime and
repaint with a quality exterior latex paint.
 DIRT PICK UP
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
Use of a low quality paint,
especially lower grades of
satin or semi-gloss. Soil
splashing onto siding.
Air pollution, car exhaust
 Accumulation of dirt, and flying dust collecting
dust particles and/or on house body and
other debris on the
horizontal trim.
paint film; may
resemble mildew.
 DIRT PICK UP
SOLUTION:
 It may be possible to correct cracking that Wash off
all surface dirt before priming and painting, using a
scrub brush and detergent solution, followed by a
thorough rinsing with a garden hose. Heavier dirt
accumulations may require the use of a power
washer. While dirt pickup can't be eliminated
entirely, top quality exterior latex paints typically
offer superior dirt pickup resistance and washability.
Also, higher gloss paints are more resistant to dirt
pickup than flat paints, which are more porous and
can more easily entrap dirt.
 EFFLORESCENCE / MOTTLING
POSSIBLE CAUSES:

Failure to adequately
prepare surface by
removing all previous
efflorescence.
 Crusty, white salt Excess moisture escaping
deposits, leached
from mortar or
through the exterior
masonry as water masonry walls from behind
passes through it.
 EFFLORESCENCE / MOTTLING
SOLUTION:
 If excess moisture is the cause, eliminate the source by
repairing the roof, cleaning out gutters and downspouts,
and sealing any cracks in the masonry with a high
quality, water-based all-acrylic or siliconized acrylic
caulk. If moist air is originating inside the building,
consider installing vents or exhaust fans, especially in
kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas. Remove the
efflorescence and all other loose material with a wire
brush, power brush or power washer; then thoroughly
rinse the surface. Apply a quality water -based or
solventbased masonry sealer or primer, and allow it to
dry completely; then apply a coat of top quality exterior
house paint, masonry paint or elastomeric wall coating.
 FADING / POOR COLOR
RETENTION
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Use of an interior grade of paint
for an outdoor application.
 Use of a lower quality paint,
leading to rapid degradation
(chalking) of the paint film.
 Use of a paint color that is
 Premature and/or
particularly vulnerable to UV
excessive lightening of the radiation (most notably certain
paint color, which of ten bright reds, blues, and yellows).
occurs on sur faces with
 Tinting a white paint not intended
sunny southern exposure.
Fading/poor color retention for tinting, or over tinting a light
can also be a result of or medium paint base.
chalking of the coating.
 FADING / POOR COLOR
RETENTION
SOLUTION:
When fading/poor color retention is a
result of chalking, it is necessary to
remove as much of the chalk as possible
(see Chalking). In repainting, be sure to
use a quality exterior house paint in
colors recommended for exterior use.
 MILDEW
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Forms most often on areas that tend
to be damp, and receive little or no
direct sunlight (walls with a
northerly exposure and the
underside of eaves are particularly
vulnerable).
 Use of a lower quality paint, which
may have an insuf ficient amount of
 Black, gray or brown mildewcide.
areas of fungus  Failure to prime bare wood before
growth on the painting.
surface of paint or  Painting over a substrate or coating
caulk. on which mildew has not been
removed.
 MILDEW
SOLUTION:
 Test to distinguish mildew from dirt by applying
a few drops of household bleach to the
discolored area; if it disappears, it is probably
mildew. Treat the mildew by applying a mixture
of water and bleach, 3:1, and leave on for 20
minutes, applying more as it dries. Wear
goggles and rubber gloves. Then scrub and rinse
the area. Apply an exterior latex primer, then a
top-of-the line exterior latex paint in flat, satin,
semi-gloss or gloss finish, depending on the
desired appearance.
 PAINT INCOMPATIBILITY
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Use of water-based latex paint over
more than three or four coats of old
alkyd or oil-based paint may cause
the old paint to "lift of f" the
substrate.

SOLUTION:
 Loss of adhesion  Repaint using another coat of alkyd
or oil-based paint. Or completely
where many old remove the existing paint and
coats of alkyd or oil- prepare the surface - cleaning,
based paint receive a sanding and spot priming where
latex top coat. necessary - before repainting with a
top quality latex exterior paint .
 PEELING
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Seepage of moisture through
uncaulked joints, worn caulk or
leaks in roof or walls.
 Excess moisture escaping through
the exterior walls (more likely if
paint is oil based).
 Inadequate surface preparation.
 Loss of paint due to poor
adhesion. Where there is  Use of lower quality paint.
a primer and top coat, or  Applying an oil-based paint over a
multiple coats of paint, wet surface.
peeling may involve
 Earlier blistering of paint (see
some or all coats.
Blistering).
 PEELING
SOLUTION:
Try to identify and eliminate source of
moisture. Prepare surface by removing
all loose paint with scraper or stiff wire
brush, sand rough edges, and apply
appropriate primer. Repaint with a top
quality acrylic latex exterior paint for
best adhesion and water resistance.
 WRINKLING
POSSIBLE CAUSES:
 Paint applied too thickly (more
likely when using alkyd or oil-
based paints).
 Painting a hot surface or in
very hot weather.
 Exposure of uncured paint to
A rough, crinkled rain, dew, fog or high humidity
levels.
paint surface
 Applying top coat of paint to
occurring when
insufficiently dried first coat.
paint forms a
 Painting over contaminated
"skin." surface (e.g., dirt or wax).
 WRINKLING
SOLUTION:
Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled
coating. Repaint, applying an even coat of top
quality exterior paint. Make sure the first coat
or primer is dry before applying the top coat.
Apply paints at the manufacturer's
recommended spread rate (two coats at the
recommended spread rate are better than one
thick coat). When painting during extremely
hot, cool or damp weather, allow extra time
for the paint to dry completely.
-END-