Focus:

The ways in which textile

products are manufactured in
industry.
 Processes and Manufacture
Content
• The production systems and their
processes.
• The range of hand tools, equipment and
machines used in textile production.
• CAD/CAM
• Production Flowcharts
• Quality Control and Quality Assurance
 The production systems and their
processes
There are three main types of production
system.
• One-off
• Batch
• Mass Objectives
Objectives
•Understand
•Understandwhat
whatisismeant
meantby
byone-
one-
off, batch, and mass production.
off, batch, and mass production.
•Understand
•Understandline
lineproduction
productionand
and
subassembly systems
subassembly systems
•Consider
•Considercost
costimplications
implicationswhen
when
selecting method of production
selecting method of production
 One-off
• One-off production is designing and
making a single textile product to a client's
specification. The garment design is
developed from a basic block pattern,
with a prototype made from inexpensive
fabric to test the drape, fit and assembly
of the garment.
 One-off
Haute-couture fashion: models at London Fashion Week

Task
Task
•Look
•Lookininmagazines
magazinesand andcut
cutout
out
pictures to make a collection
pictures to make a collection of of
designer
designeroutfits
outfitsfrom
fromcatwalk
catwalkshows.
shows.
Why
Why are these garments madeby
are these garments made by
one-off production? How much
one-off production? How much do do
these
theseclothes
clothesandandaccessories
accessoriescost
cost
totobuy?
buy?
 Batch Production
• Batch production is manufacturing set
quantities of a textile product to order. The
prototype is made up in a medium size from the
intended fabric. The prototype is checked for
quality of design and manufacture, then put into
production in a range of standard sizes. The
quantity of products can vary from a set of four
cushions made by a designer-maker, to 20,000
jumpers made for a department store.
 Mass production
• Mass production is industrial-scale
manufacture of large quantities of
products, usually on a production line.
Mass production is suitable for products
that seldom need to be redesigned and
are needed in very large numbers, eg
socks or jeans.
Production system Product market Design and production Skill level and cost

Made-to-measure garments are made to

fit the measurements of an
individual client; the garment Very high-level skills in design and
One-off Made-to-measure, eg suit, wedding dress; design is developed from a
basic block pattern and a toile
manufacture; high-cost materials;
high labour costs
is made to test the fabric drape,
the fit and order of assembly

Fashion designers such as John Galliano
One-off Haute Couture, eg made by fashion houses design Haute Couture garments for
individual clients
Very high-level skills in design and
manufacture; high-cost material
and labour costs

Garments are designed to fit a range of

standard sizes and shapes.
Garment patterns are developed
from a basic block using CAD. A
High-level design, pattern making and
sample garment is made up in a
Batch production Ready-to-wear (RTW) designer label, eg
Designers at Debenhams
medium size, from the intended
fabric. Once the design has been
sampling skills; cost-effective
materials and lower manufacturing
costs
approved it is put into production
in a range of standard sizes. They
are sold through up-market
retailers.

Similar production methods to batch

production: garments produced in
limited range of sizes;
High-level design, pattern making and
standardised production methods
sampling skills; cost-effective
are used to produce a wide range
Mass production Mass-market retailers, eg Top Shop
of styles. Most fashion products
materials; products often made
overseas where labour costs are
are batch produced in large
low
batches eg 20,000. Some classic
products like jeans are mass
produced for a world market.
 Systems and sub-systems
In a production system, a number of different
designing and manufacturing processes or sub-
systems take place at the same time. Examples
of sub-systems are:
• Lay-planning is the laying out of pattern
pieces of a fabric to work out the quantity
and cost of material required for a product.
• Costing is working out how much each
product costs in terms of including
materials, labour, rent and energy costs.
Just-in-time stock control (JIT)
This is a cost effective method of ordering
components and sub-assemblies to arrive
just before they are needed. Stock storage
time is reduced but any mistakes and
deliveries will hold production up.

Summary
Summary
•Hand-crafted,
•Hand-crafted,exclusive
exclusiveproducts
productsare
aremade
madeindividually
individuallyusing
usingthe
theone-off
one-offproduction
productionsystem.
system.
•For a fixed number of identical products, batch production is cost effective.
•For a fixed number of identical products, batch production is cost effective.
•Mass
•Massproduction
productionusually
usuallyincludes
includesproduction
productionlines
lines
•Subassemblies
•Subassemblies are made separately before theyare
are made separately before they arejoined
joinedtotothe
themain
mainproduct.
product.
 The range of hand tools, equipment and
machines used in textile production.
Plotter/Cutting machines
Computers are used for producing Lay plans which
work out exactly where to place each pattern piece to
best use the fabric. Remember wasted fabric is wasted
money!
A plotter would mark out the pattern pieces and any
construction instructions such as darts.
A CAM cutting machine automatically cuts out the
pieces following the lay plan. It cuts the fabric quickly
and accurately using vertical knives, high pressure
water jets or lasers. Many layers can be cut out at
once which means less labour costs and more
efficiency
A Band saw can be used by a skilled operator. It is
Objectives
Objectives
used for cutting through multiple layers of fabric •Have
•Havean anunderstanding
understandingofofthe
the
quickly. Metal chain mail gloves are worn to protect variety of machines used
variety of machines used inin
the workers hands. textile
textilemanufacture
manufacture
  •Appreciate
•Appreciatethe
thedifference
difference
between
between sewing andthe
sewing and the
embroidery machines.
embroidery machines.
 Sewing machines.
These range from simple machines to ones that do specialist tasks
such as buttonholes, overlocking fabric edges or CAD CAM
machines that stitch out motifs
• · Lockstitch –Used for sewing seams (Straight stitch)
• · Over locker—Stitches, cuts and finishes seams in one process
• · Seam cover—Used for sewing belt loops
• · Automatic buttonhole—Used for sewing buttonholes
• · CAD/CAM—Multihead embroidery machine
 Hand tools and equipment
Tools & equipment for
• Designing, colouring and embellishing
• Measuring and marking
• Cutting
• Heating and pressing
Identify and make a list of all the tools and equipment in your
textiles classroom

Summary
Summary
•Appropriate
•Appropriatetools
toolsandandequipment
equipmentshould
shouldbe
beselected,
selected,used
usedcorrectly
correctlyand
andsafely,
safely,and
andstored
storedininthe
the
designated place.
designated place.
•A
•Awide
widevariety
varietyofoftools
toolsand
andequipment
equipmentare
arerequired
requiredwhen
whendesigning
designingand
andmaking
making
•Efficient
•Efficient and accurate use of tools and equipment will help ensure that high-qualityproducts
and accurate use of tools and equipment will help ensure that high-quality productsareare
made.
made.
 Industrial Machinery
Below are some of the main types of Machinery can be
machines used in the manufacture of textile operated by hand, be
products. semi-automatic fully
automatic and can
also be computer
controlled

Digital jet printer Knitting machine Band saw Multi-head

embroidery machine

Objectives
Objectives
•Have
•Havean
anunderstanding
understandingofofthe
thevariety
varietyofofmachines
machinesused
usedinintextile
textilemanufacture
manufacture
•Appreciate the difference between sewing and the embroidery machines.
•Appreciate the difference between sewing and the embroidery machines.
Industrial sewing machines
In industry a range of different sewing machines are used for stitching seams,
embroidery, buttonholes etc. The main ones are listed in the table below :
Method of control Joining process Used for
Industrial machine
Lockstitch Electric Lockstitch Straight seams
Stretchy knits; finishing
Lockstitch Electric Zigzag stitch
edges

Stitches, cuts and finishes Non-fraying seams;

Overlocker Electric
seams in one process stretchy seams

Knitted hems; belt loops

Seamcover Electric Flat seam
on jeans

Joins knitted fabric stitch

Linking Electronic; CAM Knitted seams
by stitch

Automatic buttonhole Electronic; CAM Lockstitch; chainstitch Buttonholes

Computer Numerically Computer software; Lockstitch; zigzag; Making collars; labels;

Controlled (CNC) Electronic; CAM embroidery logos; embroidery

Summary
Summary
•Machines
•Machinesspeed
speedupupthetheprocess
processofofmaking
makingand
andcan
canbe
beused
usedtotoensure
ensurehigh-quality
high-qualityproducts
products
•Many
•Many machines have fast moving parts and sharp needles. Great care must be takentotofollow
machines have fast moving parts and sharp needles. Great care must be taken follow
safety rules to avoid injury while operating such a machine.
safety rules to avoid injury while operating such a machine.
•Machinery
•Machinerycancanbe
beoperated
operatedby byhand,
hand,semi-automatic
semi-automaticororfully
fullyautomatic
automaticand
andcan
canalso
alsobe
be
computer controlled.
computer controlled.
 CAD
• USING COMPUTERS TO DESIGN AND PRESENT
• Computers are used by designers for:
• Writing documents and creating display boards, including
artwork, text, spreadsheets, graphs and tables
• Putting together slide show presentations
• Digital photography and video making
• Designing and sampling
• Supplementing drawing and colouring with use of
specialist fashion software, e.g. Speed Step.

Objectives
Objectives
•Understand
•Understandthe
thebenefits
benefitsofofusing
usingcomputers
computersininmanufacturing.
manufacturing.
•Appreciate the link between CAD &
•Appreciate the link between CAD & CAM CAM
 PROGRAMMES USED BY DESIGNERS

These include:
• Microsoft Office - Word, Excel,
PowerPoint, Publisher
• Drawing packages – Paint, Adobe
illustrator, CorelDraw
• Image editing – Photoshop
• Specialist Fashion software, e.g. Speed
Step
 DRAWING USING SOFTWARE

• Drawing software can be used to design, illustrate and show

working drawings. Drawn lines and shapes or photographic images
can be imported and edited, or scanned to manipulate and develop
ideas. Collections with a range of coordinating products can be
developed from one initial idea.
• With some specialist software it is possible to get a 3D impression
of the design by rotating the design and seeing it from different
viewpoints. The designer can use the computer to simulate draping
and shadowing to create a realistic image of the design. Also, ideas
for different colourways can be tested and a variety of printed,
knitted or woven fabric designs can be trialled on screen, to see the
effect of each different combination of colour and texture.
 USE OF ICT FOR PRESENTATION

The designer can present ideas to the client on screen or

printed on to presentation boards, or via e-mail, and
then quickly modify them according to client feedback.
Promotional material developed from design work can be
adapted for use on websites, business stationery and
advertising and marketing materials, such as point of
sale literature and display posters. Computers make this
development of related design work a quicker process
 DESIGNING AND SAMPLING USING COMPUTERS

• Computers can be used to pass detailed design information to machinery

quickly so that samples can be made during the design and development
stages, often without the designers even leaving their workstations.
• Designers can use computers to design new woven or knitted fabrics on
screen and then show the new fabric in use on a drawn model, on screen
or on printed copy.
• Printed fabric design developed on screen can be digitally printed on to
actual fabric for sampling.
• Embroidered motifs and patterns can be designed on the computer and
then stitched directly onto fabric.
• A design process that previously took weeks or months can now take less
than 24hrs. The images on colour monitors and those reproduced by colour
printers are so realistic that they can be used to present ideas to fashion
buyers. In the past buyers have demanded to see and touch actual sample
garments, before deciding to place orders, but with the new computer
technology they now have the confidence to buy from screened or printed
presentations.
 ICT and CAM
ICT and computer-aided manufacture (CAM)
• ICT and CAM play a vital role in modern textiles production. For
example, they enable :
• designs to be sent electronically to the print manufacturer and
stored on computer to ease repeat printing orders.
• colours to be matched to the design, dyes weighed and dispensed
and the fabric printed automatically
• ICT makes possible the just-in-time ordering of materials and
components so they arrive at the factory as they are needed, ie just-
in-time for production to start.
• ICT enables companies to transmit information between plants, and
manufacture on a global scale

Objectives
Objectives
•Understand
•Understandthe
thebenefits
benefitsofofusing
usingcomputers
computersininmanufacturing.
manufacturing.
•Appreciate the link between CAD &
•Appreciate the link between CAD & CAM CAM
 Mass-produced clothing: jeans in a clothes shop window

Summary
Summary
•Computers
•Computerscan canbebeused
usedtotoincrease
increaseefficiency
efficiencyand
andaccuracy
accuracyininmanufacturing
manufacturing
•Costs can be reduced if efficiency is increased
•Costs can be reduced if efficiency is increased
•Health
•Healthandandsafety
safetyofofworkers
workerscan canbe
bemonitored
monitoredandandworking
workingconditions
conditionsmade
madesafer
saferusing
using
computers
computers
•Flexibility
•Flexibilityisisincreased
increasedas aschanges
changesininproduction
productioncan
canbe
bemade
mademore
morerapidly
rapidly
 CNC
• Computer-numerical control
• Computer-aided manufacturing
involves the use of CNC
machines for printing, cutting,
joining and many other textiles
processes. CNC-automated
machines can repeat
processes with accuracy and
reliability, and are easily re-
programmed when changes to
design or production run are
needed. The graphic shows
some of the uses of CNC
machines.
 CIM
Computer-integrated manufacturing
(CIM) systems integrate or link CAD and
CAM systems. These combined systems
link design development, production
planning and manufacturing systems
together. Companies that use CIM are
able to design a product in one country
and manufacture it overseas where labour
costs are lower.
 Exam Tips
• Make sure that you understand the
different roles of clients, designers,
manufacturers and users.
• You need to know what a production
plan and work schedule are - and the
difference between them.
• Make sure that you know the difference
between one-off, batch and mass
production.
 Production Plan
Production planning
• Production plans and work schedules are
important planning tools in batch and
mass production.
• The production plan should set out
information about all the stages of
production, so that every product is made
to the same quality. See example below:
Each production plan should include the following stages:
• The preparation stage details the amount of
materials to buy-in, preparation of
garment patterns, templates and lay plans.
• The processing stage details the fabric spreading,
cutting, labelling and bundling of the fabric
pieces.
• The assembly stage contains instructions for
fusing, joining and pressing the separate product
parts.
• The finishing stage gives instructions for
decorative/functional finishing and final pressing.
• The packaging stage explains how to label, hang,
fold, and cover the product ready for transport to
the retailer.
Some
Somemanufacturers
manufacturersuse
usecomputer
computersoftware
softwaretotohandle
handlethe
thedetailed
detailedinformation
informationininthe
the
production
production plan. Any changes made to the plan are quickly available to each memberof
plan. Any changes made to the plan are quickly available to each member of
the production team
the production team
 Work schedule
A work schedule sets out instructions
about the order of assembly, the stitch
type, the processes to be used, the time
each process will take and the seam
allowance. See the example of a work
schedule below:
Work schedule below for a skirt

Order of Stitch type Process Process time Seam

assembly in minutes allowance

1 Lockstitch Stitch pockets 2.00 1.00cm

2 Lockstitch Stitch pockets to 2.00 1.00cm

front

3 Overlock Join back seam 1.00 1.00cm

4 Lockstitch Insert zip 2.00 0.20cm

5 Overlock Join side seams 1.50 1.00cm

6 Lockstitch Join waistband to 2.50 0.60cm

top

7 Blind Turn up hem 1.50 0.20cm

hemming

N/A N/A Total process time 12.50 N/A