Bernard Zhang 638889

Module 3 Assignment

CIVIL HYDRAULICS

Bernard Zhang 638889

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Bernard Zhang 638889

Part 1: Offshore Processes

1a Briefly state the differences in sea and swell waves produced by the BoM model.

Waves generated locally by wind are known as sea. These waves propagate more or less in the wind
direction.

Waves that have travelled some distance away from the area they were generated are called swell.

Figure 1 Wind wave

Figure 2 Primary Swell wave

Figure 3 Sea and swell wave

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Figure 4 Surface Wind

Sea and Swell wave differences.

Sea waves occur from the wind on the water surface. The higher the wind speed, the higher the sea
waves. In figure 1, the wind wave heights match the wind speeds in figure 4. Swell waves have lower
wave heights.

The direction of sea and swell waves are different. Sea waves in figure 1 follow the direction of wind.
The swell wave’s directions are independent of the wind direction as they reach closer to the coasts.

1b) Why do waves inside Port Philip Bay differ significantly in magnitude from those off the Bass
Strait coast?

i) How the properties of waves change as they propagate around Port Philip Heads

The water depth in the Port Philip bay is much shallower than the Bass Strait water depths.
Furthermore, the geometry of certain sections of the bay such as the ‘Port Philip head’ causes a
reduction in the wave velocity and magnitude of the wave heights. The wind magnitude from land to
the bay is much smaller as compared to the winds from Bass Strait. This is due to the obstacles
blocking wind from the land. The waves would be subject to transitional zones as they reach the
coast.

ii) The factors that influence the generation of waves inside Port Philip Bay

There would be less sea wave developing compared to in Bass Strait as the wind magnitude and area
over which the wind blows decreases. Furthermore in the bay.

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Assume the Deep water significant wave height is 4m, significant period of 20s and wave direction of
240 degrees.

Part 2: Surf-zone Processes

2a) What is the breaker wave height and angle off the Bass Strait coast of the Nepean peninsula?

o
155
45o

𝛼 = 200
𝐻
At breaking point = 0.78
𝑑

Wavelength

𝑡 ∗ 𝑇 2 9.81 ∗ 202
𝐿0 = = = 624.52𝑚
2𝜋 2𝜋
Wave Velocity
𝐿0 624.52𝑚
𝐶0 = = = 31.23𝑚/𝑠
𝑇𝑠 20𝑠
At deep waters, the Group Celerity
1 31.23𝑚
𝐶𝑔𝑜 = ∗ 𝐶𝑜 = 0.5 ∗ = 15.615𝑚/𝑠
2 𝑠
At the breaking point, two conditions must be satisfied:

ℎ𝑏 = 1.28 ∗ 𝐻𝑏
𝐻𝑏
= 𝐾𝑅 ∗ 𝐾𝑆
𝐻𝑜
The shoaling coefficient

𝐶𝑔𝑜
𝐾𝑆 = √
𝐶𝑜

The Refraction coefficient

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cos⁡(𝛼0 )
𝐾𝑆 = √
cos⁡(𝛼)

𝐿
= tanh⁡(𝐾 ∗ ℎ)
𝐿0
2∗𝜋∗𝑑
𝐿 = 𝐿0 ∗ tanh⁡(( ) ∗ ℎ)
𝐿
For the Bass Strait coast of the Nepean Peninsula, the original angle 𝛼0 is approximately 17o. The
depth of waves breaking will be assumed at ‘d’. The values of 𝑑/⁡𝐿0 from the water table will be
used to calculate other shoaling and refraction coefficients.

The 𝑑/⁡𝐿0 values will be used between 0.01 and 0.015. The values between the wave table’s values
are interpolated linearly.

The formula ℎ𝐵 = 1.28𝐻𝐵 to calculate the water depth that wave will break. Table 1 displays the
wave breaking properties.
Table 1 Breaker wave parameters for Nepean Peninsula

𝑑/𝐿0 𝑑⁡(𝑚) 𝐿(𝑚) 𝐶/𝐶0 𝑛 𝐾𝑠 α0 α 𝐾𝑟 𝐻/𝐻0 𝐻(𝑚) ℎ𝐵 (m)

0.014 8.743 183.138 0.293 0.971 1.325 20.00 5.716 0.972 1.288 5.151 6.593

Therefore from table 1, 𝐻=5.15m and ℎ𝐵 (m)=6.593

Refer to the appendix for the complete data table.

2b) Calculation for the beach at Point Lonsdale

25o

The same procedure was used for Point Lonsdale. A value of ⁡𝛼 = 250 was chosen.

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Table 2 Breaker wave parameters for Point Lonsdale

𝑑/𝐿0 𝑑⁡(𝑚) 𝐿(𝑚) 𝐶/𝐶0 𝑛 𝐾𝑠 α0 α 𝐾𝑟 𝐻/𝐻0 𝐻(𝑚) ℎ𝐵 (m)

0.01 8.43 180.11 0.29 0.97 1.34 25.00 6.94 0.96 1.28 5.10 6.53

Therefore from table 2, 𝐻=5.10m and ℎ𝐵 (m)=6.53

Refer to the appendix for the complete data table.

2c) Assuming a beach slope of 5%, what types of breaking waves would dominate in (a) and (b)

The Iribarren number is used to determine the dominant breaking wave type.
tan 𝛽
ξ𝑏 =
√𝐻𝐵 ⁄𝐿𝐵

𝛽 is the beach slope. The wave type is

 Spilling breakers ξ𝑏 < 0.4

 Plunging breakers 0.4 ≤ ξ𝑏 ≤ 2.0
 Surging Breaker s ξ𝑏 > 2

For the Nepean Peninsula coast

𝐻 = 5.10m and 𝐿 = 183.138m

Therefore
tan⁡(5)
ξ𝑏 =
√5.10⁄183.138

ξ𝑏 = 0.299622311
For Point Lonsdale
𝐻 = 5.15m and 𝐿 = 180.11m

Therefore
tan⁡(5)
ξ𝑏 =
√5.15⁄180.138

ξ𝑏 = 0.295689092
Both waves’ Iribarren number is smaller than 0.4, therefore both waves are spilling.

2d) What is the magnitude of the setup at the shoreline in (a) and (b)?

1 𝑘𝐻𝑏 2
𝜂̅𝑑 = −
8 sinh(2𝑘ℎ)
1
𝜂̅𝑢 = (ℎ𝑏 − ℎ) + 𝜂̅𝑑𝑏
8
(1 + )
3𝛾 2
For condition (a):

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𝐿 = 183.138m

𝛾 = 0.78
2𝜋 2𝜋
𝑘= = = 0.034308474
𝐿 183.138
𝐻𝑏 = 5.151𝑚
ℎ = 6.53𝑚

𝟏 𝟎. 𝟎𝟑𝟒𝟑 ∗ 𝟓. 𝟏𝟓𝟏𝟐
̅𝒅 = −
𝜼 = −𝟎. 𝟐𝟒𝟏𝟐𝟓𝟗
𝟖 𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐡(𝟐 ∗ 𝟎. 𝟎𝟑𝟒𝟑 ∗ 𝟔. 𝟓𝟑)
𝟏
̅𝒖 =
𝜼 (𝟔. 𝟓𝟑 − 𝟎) − 𝟎. 𝟐𝟒𝟎𝟖𝟏𝟐 = 𝟎. 𝟗𝟕𝟏𝟖𝟎𝟏
𝟖
(𝟏 + )
𝟑 ∗ 𝟎. 𝟕𝟖𝟐
For condition (b):
𝐿 = 180.11m

𝛾 = 0.78
2𝜋 2𝜋
𝑘= = = 0.03488
𝐿 180.11
𝐻𝑏 = 5.10𝑚⁡
ℎ = 6.593𝑚

𝟏 𝟎. 𝟎𝟑𝟒𝟑 ∗ 𝟓. 𝟏𝟐
̅𝒅 = −
𝜼 = −𝟎. 𝟐𝟑𝟒𝟎𝟗
𝟖 𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐡(𝟐 ∗ 𝟎. 𝟎𝟑𝟒𝟑 ∗ 𝟔. 𝟓𝟗𝟑)
𝟏
̅𝒖 =
𝜼 (𝟔. 𝟓𝟗𝟑 − 𝟎) − 𝟎. 𝟐𝟒𝟎𝟖𝟏𝟐 = 𝟎. 𝟗𝟗𝟔𝟕𝟑
𝟖
(𝟏 + )
𝟑 ∗ 𝟎. 𝟕𝟖𝟐

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2e) What longshore processes do you expect to occur along Point Nepean and Point Lonsdale?

There will be longshore current that may carry sediment. The beach face profile may be altered. To
analyse the longshore processes, a critical analysis of the longshore sediment transport rate must be
determined.

The formulae used is

𝑣1 = 2.7𝜇𝑚𝑏 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝛼𝑏 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝛼𝑏

𝛾
𝜇𝑚𝑏 = √𝑔ℎ𝑏
2
𝐻𝑏
𝛾=
ℎ𝑏
Mean Longshore Velocity for the Nepean Peninsula
𝐻𝑏
ℎ
𝑣1 = 2.7 𝑏 √𝑔ℎ𝑏 𝑠𝑖𝑛 𝛼𝑏 𝑐𝑜𝑠𝛼𝑏
2
0.78
𝑣1 = 2.7 ∗ ∗ √9.81 ∗ 6.593 𝑠𝑖𝑛 5.716𝑜 𝑐𝑜𝑠5.716𝑜 = 0.839245𝑚/𝑠
2
The velocity of the longshore current is 0.839m/s along the coast of the Nepean Peninsula.

Point Lonsdale:
0.78
𝑣1 = 2.7 ∗ ∗ √9.81 ∗ 6.53 𝑠𝑖𝑛 6.94𝑜 𝑐𝑜𝑠6.94𝑜 = 1.01008𝑚/𝑠
2
The velocity of the longshore current is 1.01008m/s along the coast of Point Lonsdale.

2f)

i) Do you believe the surf-zone process impacts on sand deposition in Port Philip Heads
and Point Lonsdale?
The surf-zone process affects the sand deposition on the Port Philip Heads and Point
Lonsdale. The lower longshore velocity at the Port Philip heads lead to a lower
longshore current which results in the deposition and erosion of fine sediments. The
coarse sediments are affected by breaking of waves which erode and deposit the
sediment. Sand gets pushed higher in land as the waves break, these results in a well-
developed berm.
This results in the re-shaping of beaches and will continue until it reaches equilibrium.

ii) Could you recommend any alternatives to dredging to relevant government authorities
to maintain navigability? How would these be implemented?

Dredging may be unsustainable and expensive.

Groins are an appropriate way to limit the effects of longshore drift and sand erosion. Goins force
the longshore drift current to slow down and change direction. This change in velocity causes sand
to suspend in the current and deposit on the up-drift side of the groin.

Groins are constructed perpendicular to the shoreline of the beach.

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Figure 5 The functions of a groin

Part 3 : Tides

3a What is the average tidal propagation speed between Port Philip Head and Williamstown?

The theoretical average tidal propagation speed is calculated as follows:

𝐶 = √𝑔 ∗ 𝑑

Port Philip bay is relatively shallow and more than half the bay has less than 8m water depth. An
average water level of 8m will be used in the calculation.

𝐶 = √9.81 ∗ 8 = 8.85𝑚/𝑠
b) Estimate the tidal prism and maximum current magnitude between port Lonsdale and Point
Nepean. A suitable cross section at the channel entrance needs to be selected.

The tidal prism is the volume of water in an inlet between mean tide and low tide (Environment
Agency, 2010) . It is the indicator of the volume of water within a water body.

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Figure 6 Width of rip between Point Lonsdale and Point Nepean

25m

3.49km
m

Figure 7 Approximated Cross section

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1.46

0.9

0.46

0.24

Figure 8 Diurnal Tidal Variation at Port Philip Heads and Williamstown

 It is assumed that water depth is 25m for the section between Point Nepean and Point
Lonsdale
 The width of the rip between Point Lonsdale and Point Nepean is 3.49km
 The cross section of the entrance of the channel is assumed to be rectangular with
dimensions shown in figure 6.
 The tidal water level difference of Port Philip Bay is calculated using figure 7.
 The duration between low tide and high tide is approximately 7 hours.

Port Philip:

∆𝐻(𝑝𝑝) = 1.46 − 0.46 = 1𝑚

At Williamstown:

∆𝐻(𝑤) = 0.9 − 0.24 = 0.66𝑚

∆𝐻(𝑝𝑝) + ∆𝐻(𝑤) 1 + 0.66
∆𝐻 = = = 0.83𝑚
2 2
Volumetric change

𝑉 = 𝐴𝑟𝑒𝑎⁡𝑜𝑓⁡𝑃𝑜𝑟𝑡⁡𝑃ℎ𝑖𝑙𝑖𝑝⁡𝐵𝑎𝑦 ∗ ∆𝐻 = 1950𝑘𝑚2 ∗ ∆𝐻 = 16.185 ∗ 108 𝑚3

The total average volumetric change of water is

𝑉 16.185 ∗ 108 𝑚3 𝑚3
𝑄= = = 642261.9
𝑇 25200𝑠 𝑠

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Velocity in the entrance

𝑚3
𝑄 642261.9 𝑠 𝑚
𝑣= = = 0.736116
𝐴 87250 𝑠
Maximum Current Velocity
𝜋 𝜋 𝑚 𝑚
𝑣𝑚𝑎𝑥 = ∗ 𝑣 = ∗ 0.736116 = 1.1557
2 2 𝑠 𝑠
3c) What other factors impact the magnitude of the current? How could the offshore bathymetry
further increase the magnitude of this current?

 The position of the moon and the sun relative to the earth affects the water level and tides.
The forces may superimpose or cancel each other out hence resulting in spring tides and
neap tides.
 Atmospheric pressures such as high or low pressure system may affect the amount of wind
in the fetch area.
 The shape of bays and estuaries can affect the rate of shoreline erosion and sediment
transport on the shore.
 Wave propagation is determined by the depth of the water, if the offshore bathymetry
increases, the wave celerity increase which in turn increases the magnitude of the current.
 Furthermore increased water levels due to climate change can affect the water depth which
in turn affects the wave celerity in water.

3d) Is this current capable of maintaining an open channel?. Do you believe that dredging is
justified?

 The velocity of the longshore current is 0.839m/s along the coast of the Nepean Peninsular
 The velocity of the longshore current is 1.01m/s along the coast of Point Lonsdale
 The tidal current flow rate is 642261.9 m^3/s

The sediment transport rate is much lower than the tidal current flow rate. Therefore based on this
data, the open channel is supply limited. The transport capacity of the current being analysed is
greater than the supply capacity. The current is able to maintain the open channel. Dredging is not
justified.

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Part 4: Weather and Climate

4a)Consider the scenario of a major low‐pressure system (“East Coast low”) in Bass Strait. With
reference to your answers in Question 2 and 3d), what impact would this have on the surf‐zone
processes on Point Nepean and Point Lonsdale, the current channel in the and the risk of closure
of Port Phillip

‘East coast Low’ means that there is an intense low pressure system. These results to stronger winds
and heavier seas complimented with the swells in the local coastal area. The water level and tide
heights will increase. The breaking wave characteristics will change as the height the wave breaking
would increase. This increases the energy of the waves crashing on the shore which in turn increase
the dredging rates leading to higher erosion of the shore. The Port may be closed due to risk of
property damage.

4b) Over what time scales do the processes that have lead for the need to dredge occurred? In this
context, do you think dredging is a viable option in the long term to maintain maritime traffic
through Port Philip heads?

Long term daily sediment deposition combined with tidal effects and temporary changes on beach
shapes result in the need for dredging. Furthermore, unexpected and extreme weather conditions
may result in the need for dredging. Dredging is important as it allows the efficient transport of
goods in ports. Dredging is expensive and may damage the environment, however monitored
dredging with strict guidelines means that dredging is a viable option in the long term. (Queensland
Ports Association , 2013)

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Bibliography
Environment Agency, 2010. Environment Agency. [Online]
Available at: http://evidence.environment-
agency.gov.uk/FCERM/en/SC060065/Decisiontree/Hydromorphologicalchanges/H16.aspx
[Accessed 15 October 2016].

Project Oceanica, 2001. College of Charleston. [Online]

Available at:
http://oceanica.cofc.edu/an%20educator'sl%20guide%20to%20folly%20beach/guide/process3.htm
[Accessed 17 October 2016].

Queensland Ports Association , 2013. Queensland Ports Association. [Online]

Available at: http://www.portsnorth.com.au/pdfs/ports-
comm/WhyQueenslandPortsneedtodredge_Nov2013.pdf
[Accessed 20 October 2016].

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Appendix
Table 3 Breaker wave parameters for Nepean Peninsula

h/Lo d d/L L c/co c kd tan(kd) k n Ks α Kr H/Ho H hb

0.01 6.25 0.04 154.96 0.25 7.74 0.25 0.25 0.04 0.98 1.43 4.87 0.97 1.39 5.57 7.13
0.01 6.56 0.04 159.04 0.25 7.95 0.26 0.25 0.04 0.98 1.42 4.97 0.97 1.38 5.50 7.05
0.01 6.87 0.04 162.94 0.26 8.14 0.26 0.26 0.04 0.98 1.40 5.08 0.97 1.36 5.44 6.96
0.01 7.18 0.04 166.67 0.27 8.33 0.27 0.26 0.04 0.98 1.39 5.18 0.97 1.35 5.38 6.89
0.01 7.49 0.04 170.24 0.27 8.51 0.28 0.27 0.04 0.98 1.37 5.29 0.97 1.33 5.33 6.82
0.01 7.81 0.04 173.67 0.28 8.68 0.28 0.28 0.04 0.97 1.36 5.40 0.97 1.32 5.28 6.76
0.01 8.12 0.05 176.95 0.28 8.84 0.29 0.28 0.04 0.97 1.35 5.50 0.97 1.31 5.23 6.70
0.01 8.43 0.05 180.11 0.29 9.00 0.29 0.29 0.03 0.97 1.34 5.61 0.97 1.30 5.19 6.64
0.01 8.74 0.05 183.14 0.29 9.15 0.30 0.29 0.03 0.97 1.33 5.72 0.97 1.29 5.15 6.59
0.01 9.06 0.05 186.05 0.30 9.30 0.31 0.30 0.03 0.97 1.32 5.82 0.97 1.28 5.11 6.55

Table 4Breaker wave parameters for Point Lonsdale

h/Lo d d/L L c/co c kd tan(kd) k n Ks α Kr H/Ho H hb

0.01 6.25 0.04 154.96 0.25 7.74 0.25 0.25 0.04 0.98 1.43 6.02 0.95 1.37 5.48 7.01
0.01 6.56 0.04 159.04 0.25 7.95 0.26 0.25 0.04 0.98 1.42 6.15 0.95 1.35 5.41 6.93
0.01 6.87 0.04 162.94 0.26 8.14 0.26 0.26 0.04 0.98 1.40 6.28 0.95 1.34 5.35 6.85
0.01 7.18 0.04 166.67 0.27 8.33 0.27 0.26 0.04 0.98 1.39 6.41 0.95 1.32 5.29 6.77
0.01 7.49 0.04 170.24 0.27 8.51 0.28 0.27 0.04 0.98 1.37 6.54 0.96 1.31 5.24 6.71
0.01 7.81 0.04 173.67 0.28 8.68 0.28 0.28 0.04 0.97 1.36 6.67 0.96 1.30 5.19 6.65
0.01 8.12 0.05 176.95 0.28 8.84 0.29 0.28 0.04 0.97 1.35 6.81 0.96 1.29 5.15 6.59
0.01 8.43 0.05 180.11 0.29 9.00 0.29 0.29 0.03 0.97 1.34 6.94 0.96 1.28 5.10 6.53
0.01 8.74 0.05 183.14 0.29 9.15 0.30 0.29 0.03 0.97 1.33 7.07 0.96 1.27 5.07 6.48
0.01 9.06 0.05 186.05 0.30 9.30 0.31 0.30 0.03 0.97 1.32 7.20 0.96 1.26 5.03 6.44

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