Today:

08.00-08.15: Resume

08.15-09.00: Linear irregular waves

09.15-10.15: Group work – report 1

10.15-11.00: Wheeler stretching and diffraction

11.00-12.00: Group work
Matlab resources

Lots of tutorials and videos

At www.mathsoft.com

Spend Friday afternoon there

It’ll pay off 
More on irregular waves and forces
• Want to know more?
• Follow course 41106 Marine Structures 1
• Course module F5A

Teaching today is based on this book:

Linear wave theory
Irregular waves

Henrik Bredmose
Outline

• Sums of monochromatic waves

• Energy density and variance

• Wave spectra

• Directional spectrum

http://www.photolib.noaa.gov/bigs/wea00816.jpg
Parameters for water waves
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Water_wave_theories.svg

z c

x H h SWL

w
h
u

h depth c phase speed

H wave height h free surface elevation
L wave length u horizontal particle velocity
T, t wave period w vertical particle velocity
f=1/T wave frequency SWL Still Water Level
w=2p/T radian frequency g gravity Wave diagram of Le Méhauté (1976).
k=2p/L wave number
Approximations in linear wave theory

http://www.photolib.noaa.gov/bigs/wea00816.jpg

http://gotbooks.miracosta.edu/oceans/imges/wave_oscilation.jpg

Assumptions:
• No viscosity
• Small amplitude
• Just one frequency (relax now...)
• Constant depth
• Planar flow (2D)

Experiments in wave flume, Institut Pythéas, Luminy, Marseille

Key results, linear wave theory
z z
Regular waves Irregular waves
x x
𝑁

Free surface elevation 𝜂 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗 cos(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )

𝑗=1
𝑁
𝜔𝑗 cosh 𝑘𝑗 𝑧 + ℎ
Velocity potential 𝜙 = ෍ −𝐴𝑗 sin(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
𝑘𝑗 sinh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ
𝑗=1
𝑁
cosh 𝑘𝑗 (𝑧 + ℎ)
Horizontal velocity 𝑢 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗 𝜔𝑗 cos(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
sinh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ
𝑗=1

𝑁
sinh 𝑘𝑗 (𝑧 + ℎ)
Vertical velocity 𝑤 = ෍ −𝐴𝑗 𝜔𝑗 sin(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
sinh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ
𝑗=1

Dispersion relation 𝜔𝑗2 = 𝑔𝑘𝑗 tanh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ

Random phase angle, uniformly

𝜖𝑗 ∈ [0; 2𝜋]
distributed on [0; 2p]
Mean energy density in waves

Consider potential energy of a small strip of water. Compute mean value.

h
h

dx
x

Add mean of kinetic energy:

The mean energy density is proportional to the variance of the free surface elevation
Distribution and variance of h
For small amplitude irregular waves h follows a Gaussian distribution:

The variance is the mean of h2:

Calculate the variance
Regular waves Irregular waves
z z

x x
𝑁
𝐻
𝜂 = cos(𝜔𝑡 − 𝑘𝑥) Free surface elevation 𝜂 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗 cos(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
2 𝑗=1

2 𝑁
1 𝐻 1
𝜎𝜂2 = Variance 𝜎𝜂2 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗2
2 2 2
𝑗=1

Exercise: Establish the two results for variance. Use that the mean value of the cosine function over a suitable
interval is ½ and utilize orthogonality of cosine and sinus functions.
Wave spectrum
Power spectrum of h.
Defines how energy is distributed among frequencies

𝑆𝜂 Area under spectrum is equal to the variance:

We can write this as a discrete sum

𝑁 𝑁
1
Combine with previous result: 𝜎𝜂2 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗2 for 𝜂 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗 cos(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
2
𝑗=1 𝑗=1

1 2
Hereby 𝐴 = 𝑆𝜂 𝑓𝑗 Δ𝑓 𝐴𝑗 = 2𝑆𝜂 (𝑓𝑗 )Δ𝑓
2 𝑗
Pierson-Moscowitz and JONSWAP spectra
Pierson & Moscowitz (1964)

Joint North Sea Wave Project (Hasselmann et al 1973)

Hs: Significant wave height. Tp: Peak period.

 is the peak enhancement factor. Often  =3.3 is

used but it can also be calculated from Hs and Tp:
Pierson-Moscowitz and JONSWAP spectra

From IEC 61400-3

The JONSWAP spectrum is more peaky and was made to describe storm sea states of
limited fetch. For =1 it reduces to the Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum.
Significant wave height and peak period

𝑆𝜂

𝐻𝑠 ≅ 𝐻𝑚0 = 4𝜎𝜂
Significant wave height – practically computed
𝑓
as Hm0 from standard deviation of h.
1
𝑓𝑝 = Originally defined as the average height
𝑇𝑝
of 1/3 highest waves.
Directional spectrum Unidirectional waves:

Directionally spread waves:

Where

and

Example: The cosine 2s distribution

From: Sumer and Fredsøe (2006)

Hydrodynamics around cylindrical structures.
Today:

08.00-08.15: Resume

08.15-09.00: Linear waves

09.15-10.15: Group work – report 1

10.15-11.00: Wheeler stretching and diffraction

11.00-12.00: Group work
Wheeler stretching and diffraction

Henrik Bredmose
 z
Outline x SWL

• Wheeler stretching h

zphys
• Diffraction
zcalc
• MacCamy-Fuchs theory

• Corrected CM coefficient

http://www.photolib.noaa.gov/bigs/wea00816.jpg
Key results, linear wave theory
z z
Regular waves Irregular waves
x x
𝑁

Free surface elevation 𝜂 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗 cos(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )

𝑗=1
𝑁
𝜔𝑗 cosh 𝑘𝑗 𝑧 + ℎ
Velocity potential 𝜙 = ෍ −𝐴𝑗 sin(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
𝑘𝑗 sinh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ
𝑗=1
𝑁
cosh 𝑘𝑗 (𝑧 + ℎ)
Horizontal velocity 𝑢 = ෍ 𝐴𝑗 𝜔𝑗 cos(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
sinh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ
𝑗=1

𝑁
sinh 𝑘𝑗 (𝑧 + ℎ)
Vertical velocity 𝑤 = ෍ −𝐴𝑗 𝜔𝑗 sin(𝜔𝑗 𝑡 − 𝑘𝑗 𝑥 + 𝜖𝑗 )
sinh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ
𝑗=1

Dispersion relation 𝜔𝑗2 = 𝑔𝑘𝑗 tanh 𝑘𝑗 ℎ

Random phase angle, uniformly

𝜖𝑗 ∈ [0; 2𝜋]
distributed on [0; 2p]
Wheeler stretching

Particle velocities of linear wave theory grow like

exp(z) above the still water level.

Unphysical. In linear wave theory we have

assumed small amplitude and the theory is thus
only valid for small values of η.

𝜕𝑢
𝑢 𝑧 + 𝛼𝜂 = 𝑢 𝑧 + 𝛼𝜂
𝜕𝑧

It is linearly consistent to shift velocity profile by an amount propotional to η.

Hence, in Wheeler stretching, the velocities from sea bed to still water
level are stretched and used between sea bed and free surface elevation η.
Wheeler stretching

x SWL

h
𝑧𝑐𝑎𝑙𝑐
zphys 𝑧𝑝ℎ𝑦𝑠 = 𝑧𝑐𝑎𝑙𝑐 + 𝜂 1 +
ℎ
zcalc
Wheeler stretching
The Wheeler stretched velocities
can thus be obtained by computation
of the velocities at a fixed grid
z
zcalc= [-h,...,0] and then assigning
x SWL
these velocities to the corresponding
physical z-values.
h
𝑧𝑐𝑎𝑙𝑐
zphys 𝑧𝑝ℎ𝑦𝑠 = 𝑧𝑐𝑎𝑙𝑐 + 𝜂 1 +
ℎ
zcalc
Diffraction and scattering

Experiment in the Wave Loads project (Bredmose et al 2013)

For D/L>0.2 diffraction becomes important.

Diffraction and scattering

Diffraction: wave propagation due to sheltering

effect from an object

scattered wave field

incident wave field

The “extra” wave field that is generated additionally

to the incident wave field is called the scattered wave field.
Large structures in waves

When D/L is large, the slender-body theory (e.g. Morison eq) breaks down for 2 reasons:
• the flow at the center is not representative for the flow over the full structure
• the diffracted wave field becomes significant
MacCamy-Fuchs diffraction theory (1954)

Expand in cylindrical coordinates, (r, θ, z).

Given an incient wave field, find a diffracted wave field that
– is a solution to the linear governing equations
– satisfies the boundary condition at the cylinder wall

In cylindrical coordinates, generic solutions to the LaPlace equation are given by Bessel functions
Linear propagating wave

Add the diffracted wave field as outward propagating

Hankel waves
Application of the diffraction solution

Get the surface elevation and pressure from Bernoulli equation (linearise):

(p+ : pressure additional to hydrostatic pressure: p=p+ + ρgz )

 Inline force

From Sumer and Fredsøe (2006) ‘Hydrodynamics around cylindrical structures’

Inline force expressed through inertia coefficient

CM

Is easily derived
Force coefficient reduces significantly From van der Tempel (2006)
D/L
when D/L goes up. ‘Design of support structures for offshore wind turbines’

Where is a typical WT monopile in the diagram?

Today:

08.00-08.15: Resume

08.15-09.00: Linear waves

09.15-10.15: Group work – report 1

10.15-11.00: Wheeler stretching and diffraction

11.00-12.00: Group work
Matlab resources

Lots of tutorials and videos

At www.mathsoft.com

Spend Friday afternoon there

It’ll pay off 