Professional Documents
Culture Documents
enough to remember when, in any U.S. city, French restaurants were the most upscale and
Asian cuisine was Chinese takeout. Diners of the 1970s sure as heck didn’t see arugula,
chipotle, and pesto on menus. They wouldn’t have tolerated small portions or “shareable”
plates. They didn’t expect smoke-free dining areas. They weren’t counting carbs and didn’t
know a thing about the Atkins or South Beach diets.
Today’s consumer is not immune to economic downturns, but at the same time, he or
she also looks to the foodservice industry to serve up the small pleasures of life that are
still affordable in the larger picture: a nice lunch, an upscale coffee drink, a decadent
dessert, a handy meal to go on a frantic school night. “I work hard,” they seem to be say-
ing with their food and beverage purchases. “I deserve this little indulgence.” And who can
blame them?
At the end of 2004, the well-known Zagat Survey Guides looked back to pinpoint four key
social and/or economic changes that set today’s trends in motion:
1. The school lunch program. You might not have guessed it, but starting in the 1950s,
the school cafeteria trained the Baby Boomer generation to purchase lunch instead
of bringing it from home, a habit they continued as adults. The dual phenomenon
of working women and working mothers continued the convenient pattern of
eating out, usually in inexpensive places.
2. Affordable jet travel. Starting in the 1970s, middle-class Americans could afford to
fly. At the same time, immigrant quotas in the United States were lifted in 1965,
allowing people from other nations to bring their own restaurant concepts and
cuisine to a new and enthusiastic audience. Jet travel also gave chefs reliable access
for the first time to an extraordinary variety of fresh and/or exotic ingredients.
3. The celebrity chef craze. When Julia Child held court in the 1970s with her television
show The French Chef, she was in a class by herself. Today, with Food TV and our
celebrity-focused culture, the public’s perception of the cooking profession has
changed. Many chefs have become household names, overseeing virtual empires—
Web sites, television shows, cookbooks and restaurant chains—and lending their
names to ingredients, cookware and more.
4. Restaurant redesign. In response to the desires of customers, the restaurant itself
looks different. Linen tablecloths, heavy draperies (usually deep red), and flower-
filled vases have all but disappeared. They’ve been replaced by understated, often
avant-garde décor. The guests themselves look different too. Relaxed casual is the
norm, and even the fanciest dining spots are less pretentious and more welcoming
than they were in the 1970s.