NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION

TECHNOLOGY

Chennai

ADVANTAGE PATTERN MAKING & CONSTRUCTION

COTTON DENIM TROUSER

Submitted by:-

Anisha Gautam

MFT/19/63
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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I have immense pleasure in successful completion of this work. The

special environment at the college that always supports educational
activities facilitated my work. I acknowledge the support of as well as
encouragement of our respectable faculty Mr. T. Murugan, Assistant
Professor (pattern making and garment construction). I am also thankful
to the lab assistants Mrs. Lalitha and Mr. Srinivasan, dft, whose insightful
leadership and knowledge helped us to steer out this work. I greatly
appreciate the motivation and understanding extended for this work.

I am also thankful to my parents, who encouraged me to extend my reach,

with their help and support; I am able to complete this work. I am indebted
to all of them including my friends, who did their best to bring
improvements through their suggestions.

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 CONTENTS

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

• Introduction 04
• Inspiration 05
• Swatches 06
• Final garment 07
• Identification of different parts of pant 08
• Shapes of different parts of pant 09-10
• Stitching methods 11
• Specification sheet 12
• Sequence of operations 13
• Operaton break down process flow diagram for mens trouser 14
• Costing 15

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 INTROUCTION

This is a cotton denim trouser. I have used 2 fabrics in this trouser

i.e. the black lining for the pocket portion and charcoal grey cotton
denim fabric for the trouser. These is designed slim fit chinos,
designed for maximum comfort and versatility. Crafted in mid-
weight twill weave, the chinos have been lightly washed for
velvety soft feel. They are finished with side and back pockets and
zippered fly with button closure. These trouser makes the perfect
addition to your everyday wardrobe.

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INSPIRATION

5
 SWATCHES

COTTON DENIM FABRIC

BLACK COTTON LINING

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FINAL GARMENT

7
IDENTIFICATION OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF PANT

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 SHAPES OF DIFFERENT PARTS OF PANT

Front part

Back part

Waist ban

Double fly

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Single zipper fly

Side pocket carrier

Front pocket bag

Back patch pocket

Belt loop

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 STITCHING METHODS

Technical specification:

Garment - Trouser

Seam used - super imposed seam (plain seam) & edge stitch

Stitch used -

Class 300 (single needle lockstitch)

Class 504 (three thread overlock) - single needle lockstitch

Machine -
Different types of machine used to manufacture pant;

• Plain m/c
• Flat lock m/c
• Three thread Over lock m/c
• Button holing m/c
• Button attaching m/c

Needle - DB X 1

Thread - 2 ply spun polyester thread & Denim thread

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 SPECIFICATION SHEET FOR TROUSER PATTERN

Waist 32
Waistband height 2¾
Low hip 44
Front rise to WB 12¼
Back rise to WB 14½
Thigh 1” below crotch 24
Knees circumference 14” below crotch 16½
Leg opening relaxed 11
Hem stitch height 2¾
Inseam 31½
Out seam 41½

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 SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS

Making Waistbands: For making 3.5cm finished waistbands (Left &

Right) it is fused with 5.5cm slotted anti roll interlining – performed
waistband lining 5cm finished width.

Making Zip Fly: Top fly fused with non-woven interlining all over. Top
area of under fly fused with non-woven to support buttonhole.

Making Pocket Parts: Flaps are fused with non-woven interlining. And
button hole are done if required.

Making Back Legs: One Back Dart and one Hip Pocket in each leg is
required. Fused supporting piece under back pocket is required.
Overlock is done on back leg and pocket parts. Sewn two back darts and
iron them. Adding fusible for pockets. Adding facing and labels to back
pocket. Adding bar tack, buttonhole and pressing of Hip pocket is done.

Make Front Legs: Lined to knee to cover front pockets- Lining cut across
piece to provide selvedge finish to lower edge. Attaching side pockets and
fly to the front part is done here.

Assemble Trouser: Closing outside & inside leg seams, Attaching

waistband & belt loops, Binding edge of top fly , attaching under fly and
crotch piece are done here. There are few more operations are done in this
step like, finishing top fly and waistband end, top stitch of left and right
fly. Attaching zipper, buttonhole, bar tack of fly &blind stitch of hem etc.

Turn up Alternative: Attaching Heel Tapes and turn up bottom with

ironing is done here.

Press and finish trouser: Pressing and finishing of trouser is done in this
step.

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OPERATON BREAK DOWN PROCESS FLOW
DIAGRAM FOR MENS TROUSER

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 COSTING

1.Cotton denim fabric

a. Per meter - ₹ 470 / m

b. Used - 2.5 m

c. Total Cost - ₹ 1,175/-

2. Cotton lining fabric

a. Per meter - ₹ 25 / m

b. Used - 1 m

c. Total Cost - Rs 25/-

3. Zipper - ₹ 10

4. Threads -

art. no. 37 150m -80: ₹ 8

denim thread ₹ 15/-

Total Cost - 23/-

5. Needle - DB X 1: ₹10

6. Button - ₹10 Total cost - ₹ 1,253/-

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