By, Prof.

Lipsa Mohapatra
SEAMS & STITCHES Asst. Prof., FMS, NIFT,
Bhubaneswar
SEWING MACHINE
Thread-guides
Thumb-nut
Screw

Stitch
Regulator
Take-up
Lever

Tension
Discs/Check-
spring

Needle
Bar
Needle Reversing
Lever

Machine
Needle Guard Bed
Throat Plate Presser Foot
Needle Bar

Needle Throat plate

Needle Eye
Presser Foot

Feed Dog
STITCH-FORMING DEVICES FOR
LOCK-STITCH (BOBBIN HOOK); CHAIN-STITCH (LOOPER); AND
OVER-LOCK (LOOPER AND SPREADER)
THE BOBBIN OF A LOCK-STITCH MACHINE
LOCK STITCH – STITCH FORMATION
CHAIN STITCH – STITCH FORMATION
Flat Bed

Raised Bed

MACHINE BEDS
 Cylinder Bed

Feed-off-the-arm

MACHINE BEDS
 Post Bed

MACHINE BEDS
SEAMS & STITCHES
Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:
- materials molded to a form,
- fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and
- pieces cut to shape and sewn.

For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S government
developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United States
Federal Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were adopted in
1965.
The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings was also
developed about the same time.
The Federal Standard751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards Related
to Stitches and Seams.

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

SEAMS & STITCHES
ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:
A Stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in
a specific repeated unit.

A Seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.

A Stitching consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material

for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge or both.

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

SEAMS
The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.
To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or characteristics
closely allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type together with
the correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end-product is of paramount
importance.
CLASSIFICATION OF SEAMS
Superimposed Seam
Lap Seam
Bound Seam
Flat Seam
Edge Finishing
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF A SEAM
Strength: a seam must be strong: maximum strength for minimum thickness and economy
of sewing thread. Strength is usually measured in two directions: across the seam
(lateral or transverse strength) and along the seam (longitudinal strength).
Extensibility:
Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear easily during
everyday use of the garment
Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of the garment
Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an unobtrusive
and efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical properties or appearance.
Balance
STITCH CLASSIFICATION
Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.
STITCH PROPERTIES
Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.
Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can be an
indicator of quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means long stitches.
Generally, the greater the spi, the more the holding power and seam strength.
Stitch width refers to the horizontal span covered in the formation of one stitch
or single line of stitching. Stitches that have width dimensions require multiple
needles or lateral movement of thread carriers such as the needle bars, loopers
or spreaders.
Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch.
It is a factor for blind stitches.
STITCH CLASSIFICATION
Class 100 –
Single-thread chain stitch

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

• Class 103 – Blind Stitch
(Blind Hemming)

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

Class 100
stitches

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

CLASS 300 – LOCK STITCHES
301

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

Class 300 - 304 (Zig-zag lock stitch)

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)
CLASS 400 – MULTI-THREAD CHAIN STITCHES
401

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

406 (flat-lock) and 407(elastic attachment) are
known as bottom cover stitches

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

CLASS 400 – MULTI-THREAD CHAIN STITCHES

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

 501

502

503

CLASS 500- OVEREDGE STITCH/OVERLOCK STITCH

SOURCE-GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)
504 – THREE-THREAD OVER-LOCK

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)
CLASS – 600 COVER STITCHES

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)

Class 600

SOURCE: GLOCK & KUNZ (THIRD EDITION)