Starter motor, starting system: how it works, problems,

testing
Updated: May 06, 2020

The starter motor is an electric motor that turns over or "cranks" the
engine to start. It consists of a powerful DC (Direct Current) electric
motor and the starter solenoid that is attached to the motor (see
the picture). 

The starter motor is powered by the car's main 12-volt battery. To

turn over the engine, the starter motor requires a very high electric
current, which means the battery has to have sufficient power. If the
battery is discharged, the lights in a car might come on, but it won't
be enough power (current) to turn over the starter motor.

What are the symptoms of a bad starter motor: When starting a car
with a fully charged battery, there is a single click or nothing
happens at all. The starter motor doesn't run, even though there is a
12-Volt power at the starter control terminal.

Another symptom is when the starter motor runs, but fails to turn
over the engine. Often, this might cause a loud screeching noise
when starting the car. Of course, this could also be caused by
damaged teeth on the ring gear of the flex plate or flywheel.
Starter solenoid

A typical starter solenoid has one small connector for the starter
control wire (the white connector in the photo) and two large
terminals: one for the positive battery cable and the other for the
thick wire that powers the starter motor itself (see the diagram
below).

The starter solenoid works as a powerful electric relay. When

activated, through the control terminal, the solenoid closes the hi-
current electric circuit and sends the battery power to the starter
motor. At the same time, the starter solenoid pushes the starter
gear forward to mesh with the ring gear of the engine flexplate or
flywheel.
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Battery cables
 As we mentioned, the starter
motor requires a very high
electric current to turn over
the engine, that's why it's
connected to the battery
with thick (large gauge)
cables (see the diagram).
The negative (ground) cable
connects the negative "-"
battery terminal to the
engine cylinder block, or
transmission, close to the
starter. The positive cable
connects the positive "+" battery terminal to the starter solenoid.
Often, a poor connection at one of the battery cables can cause the
starter motor not to run.
How the starting system works:

When you turn the ignition key to the START position, or press the
START button, if the transmission is in Park or Neutral, the battery
voltage goes through the starter control circuit and activates the
starter solenoid. The starter solenoid powers the starter motor. At
the same time, the starter solenoid pushes the starter gear forward
to mesh it with the engine flywheel (flexplate in an automatic
transmission). The flywheel is attached to the engine crankshaft. The
starter motor spins, turning over the engine crankshaft allowing the
engine to start. In cars with a push button start, the system
disengages the starter as soon as the engine starts running.
Neutral safety switch

For safety reasons, the starter motor can only be operated when the
automatic transmission is in Park or Neutral position; or if the car
has a manual transmission, when the clutch pedal is depressed. In
vehicles with a manual transmission, the clutch pedal switch
completes the starter motor circuit when pressed. In cars with an
automatic transmission, the transmission range switch allows the
starter to operate only when a transmission is in Park or Neutral.

The job of the transmission range switch is to tell the vehicle

computer (PCM) which gear the transmission is in. If your car has a
gear indicator on the dash, you might be able to see when a
transmission range indicator is not working.
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The most common problem is when you shift the transmission into
"Park" and the letter "P" doesn't show on the dash. This means that
the vehicle computer (PCM) doesn't know that the transmission is in
"Park" and will not allow the starter to operate. The symptom of this
problem is when the vehicle starts in Neutral, but doesn't start in
"Park".

This problem is often caused by a corroded or seized cable, or cable

lever (see the photo). The rust at restricts the cable movement and
prevents the switch from working properly. The solution is to
lubricate the cable connection point and, if needed, replace rusted
parts. The transmission range switch position might need to be
readjusted too.
Starting system problems
 Starting system
problems are common and not all of them are caused by a faulty
starter motor. To find the cause of the problem, the starting system
must be properly tested. If when you are trying to start the car, you
hear that the starter cranks as usual, but the car doesn't start, then
the problem is most likely not with the starting system - read
our car no-start troubleshooting guide for tips on how to find a
problem. Here are a few common starting system problems:

Corroded batter terminal             Good connection

The battery is very common to fail. Sometimes one of the electrical

components that was left on or has a defect causing parasitic
current draw drains the battery. Sometimes, an old battery can just
die one day, with no warning. In either case, if the battery is low on
charge, it won't have enough power for the starter motor to turn
over the engine.

If the battery is low on charge, when attempting to start the engine

you might hear a single click or repeated clicking, or the starter may
turn over slowly and stop.

Poor connection at the cable terminals can cause the starter not to
work or run very slow too. Often the battery terminals or the ground
cable connection get corroded causing starter problems (see the
photo above).

Corroded starter solenoid control terminal

Sometimes the starter control terminal gets corroded (in the photo)
or a starter control wire gets loose or disconnected from the
terminal causing the starter not to work. For example, this corroded
starter control terminal was the cause of a no-start, no-crank
condition in the Mazda 3. We only noticed this after disconnecting
the control wire connector. Cleaning the terminal and replacing the
connector solved the problem.

Another part that often fails is the starter motor itself. Sometimes
the carbon brushes or some other parts inside the starter motor
wear out and the starter motor stops working.
For example, a failed starter motor was common in some Toyota
Corolla and Matrix models. Even with a good battery, the starter
would click, but would not turn over.

If the starter motor is faulty, it will have to be replaced, which may

cost from $250 to $650. Rebuilding the starter motor is usually
cheaper, but takes more time.

Sometimes the starter gear for some reason won't mesh properly
with the engine flywheel. This may cause a very loud metal grinding
or screeching sound when attempting to start the car. In this case,
the flywheel ring gear needs to be checked for damaged teeth.

An ignition switch also fails often. The contact points inside the
ignition switch wear out, so when you turn the ignition switch to the
"Start" position, no electric current is going through the starter
control circuit to activate the starter solenoid. If jiggling the key in
the ignition helps start the car, it's possible that the ignition switch is
defective.

A neutral safety switch can also fail or get out of adjustment. For
example, if a car starts in "Neutral" but doesn't start in "Park," the
neutral safety switch should be checked first.
How the starting system is tested
 A technician checks the battery state of charge
with the battery tester

When the starter motor doesn't work, first the state of charge of the
battery, battery terminals and battery cables must be checked. One
of the symptoms of a weak battery is when the dash lights go dim
when the key is turned to the START position.

The next step typically involves testing the starter control circuit.
Your mechanic may start by measuring the battery voltage at the
starter solenoid control terminal with the key in the START position.
If there is no voltage, the problem is most likely in the starter
control circuit (ignition switch, starter relay, neutral safety switch,
control wire). If there is a battery voltage at the starter solenoid
control terminal with the key in the START position, the starter
motor itself could be bad. The starter solenoid control terminal must
also be checked for proper connection.
How does the starter motor work inside?

Starter motor inside

 The starter motor
typically has four
field windings (field
coils) attached to
the starter motor
housing from the
inside. The
armature (the
rotating part) is
connected through
the carbon brushes
in series with the field coils. On the front end of the armature, there
is a small gear that is attached to the armature through an
overrunning clutch.

How does the starter motor work? When the driver turns the key or
presses the Start button, the solenoid winding is energized. The
solenoid plunger moves in the direction of the arrow and closes the
solenoid contacts. This connects the battery power to the starter
motor (field coils and armature). At the same time, the plunger
pushes the starter gear forward through the lever. The gear then
engages with the ring gear of the flexplate and turns it over. The
flexplate is attached to the engine crankshaft.

Most of the starter problems are caused by worn out or burned

solenoid contacts, worn brushes and a commutator and worn
armature bushings. The symptom of worn out solenoid contacts is
when the solenoid clicks but the starter motor doesn't run. When
the starter brushes are worn out, the starter motor doesn't make
any noises. When front and rear armature bushings wear out, the
armature rubs against the field shoes causing the starter motor to
run slow and noisy. Many modern starter motors have small ball
bearings instead of the bushings. If you want to rebuild the starter
motor, the starter motor rebuild kits that include common wear
parts are sold online.