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Apparel manufacturing process

PriyambadaKhushboo
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 Apparel manufacturing process


 1.  Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented
activity with a great range of raw materials, product types,
production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and
associated technologies.  Companies range from small
family business to multinationals.  The clothing industry
is labour intensive industry.
 Departments in garment manufacturing unit
 Merchandising department
 Sampling department
 Fabric store department Trims and accessories store
department
 Spreading & Cutting department Sewing department
 Washing department
 Quality Assurance department
 Finishing & Packaging department Maintenance
Department
 Finance and Accounts Department HR/Admin Department
 Buyer- Supplier Meeting Production order placed
Sampling BOM generation for Pre-production sample
Fabric washing Raw material inspection Raw material
procurement Production Shipment sample Finishing
Packing Shipment

 Receipt of the techpack BOM draft for sampling Pattern


making Raw material procurement Raw material
inspection BOM draft for production Getting the fit
sample approved Fit sample making Getting approval on
proto sample Proto sample development Approval sample
development Order approved for production Getting
approvals on size set samples Raw material procurement
Raw material inspection Send shipment samples to the
buyer Follow up with the production department Order
file transferred to the production department Approval on
pre-production sample GPT/FPT to conform to standards
Follow up with the production department till delivery
 6. Internal & external communication Sampling Preparing
internal order sheets Accessories & trims Preparing
purchase orders Merchandiser Getting approvals on lab
dips and bit looms Advising and assisting production and
quality department Mediating production and quality
departments Helping documentation Taking responsibility
for inspections

 Giving shipping instructions and following shipment


Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-
article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.
 7.  Getting clarifications about style details from
merchandiser.
  Checking pattern’s workability.
  Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s
approval.
  Informing quality related problems, encountered during
preparing samples, to QC.
  Minimizing operations and consumption.
8. Design development

• This is the first sample which is made for any style by


most of the buyer.
• Design development is either done by buyer or factory
• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with
the same line or not. Proto sample
• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and
normally order is confirmed to the factory based on proto
sample .
• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry
done to acquaint the tailors with the style.
• It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using
accessories, what is available and then checked on the
dress form.
• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to
the fit, the drape, the style details etc. Fit sample
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the
garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of
construction details.
• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual
fabric which is going to be used for bulk production or
sample yardage fabric is used. Photo shoot sample
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally
buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
• Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on
catalogue or various media like, print, TV or websites to
see the response of the consumer. Sales man /
Marketing /Showroom sample
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the
order from the retailers.
• In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is
used or sample yardage need to be used.
• This sample also very important stage of sampling as the
sales of buyer depends upon this sample presentation,
look, feel of fabric is important. Source:
http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609

 9. Size set sample


 • The main purpose of size set sample is to check the
factory's capability to make the sample in all sizes
 • 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size
need to send to buyer. GPT sample (Garment Performance
Test)
 • The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and
chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of
the garment.
 • GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results
are sent to both factory as well as buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color
Fastness, Seam performance etc.

Pre- production sample


• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the
buyer and the factory.
• It has to be made in original fabric and trims
• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to
actual.
• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk
production garments should be identical to PP sample.
• The factory can start the production of bulk garment
only after the approval of preproduction sample. Wash
sample
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for
assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing.

TOP sample (Top of Production)


• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial
pieces are come out of sewing line.
• In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual
manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted
sample or not. Shipment sample
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which
factory needs to pull form the actual shipment and sent to
buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer
about the actual shipment dispatch. Source:
http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
 10. Functions of the fabric store department  Receive the
fabric as per BOM  Fabric inspection (four point system)
 Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)
 Issue to the production department as per the
requirement
 11.  10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net
fabric.  Inspection for production order fabric as per
buyer’s requirement.  Perform GSM cutting.  Perform
shrinkage test.  Check the fabric for the bowing or
skewing.  Check fabric roll for the defects.  Allocate
points to the defects.
 12. Functions of the trims and accessories department 
To receive incoming material.  To check material for
attribute & variables.  To arrange the incoming material
in allocated racks.  To issue trims as per BOM for
sampling and production & other material as per
requirement.  To maintain a record of incoming &
outgoing material.
 13. Spreading and cutting flow process Planning
Spreading Cutting Preparation for sewing
 14. Spreading and cutting flow process Spreads Planning
Markers Production Manual Spreading Machine Manual
Cutting Machine Preparation for sewing Ticketing
Bundles
 15. Planning Spreads Markers Production
 16. It translates customer orders into cutting orders 
minimize total production costs  meet deadlines  seek
most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space
 17.  Examining incoming orders and piece goods width
and availability  Determining volume, size ratios, and
sectioning procedures for marker making  Determining
whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
 Developing specifications for optimum marker making
and fabric utilization  Determine most effective use of
spreading and cutting equipment and personnel  Issuing
orders for marker making, spreading and cutting
 18. Cutting orders leads to Marker planning Lay planning
 19.  The results of cut order planning are cutting orders
that direct marker planning and cut planning.  The
purpose of marker planning is to determine the most
efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order
and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment
utilization.  One cutting order may require several
markers to achieve optimum efficiency.  A lay is a stack
of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.  Lay
planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and
table space.  Spreading and cutting schedules are
affected by:  table length,  type of equipment, 
spread length,  spreading time and  cutting time.
 20. Marker  is a diagram of a precise arrangement of
pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut
from a single spread. Marker making  is the process of
determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for
a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires
time, skill and concentration)
 21.  Marker making is a critical step in the
manufacturing process.  By retaining strict control over
this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low
as possible.  It also ensures that the issues that affect
quality will be given proper attention. These include
placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and
attending to details such as drill holes and notches. 
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker
produced, the company may save or waste thousands of
dollars a year. Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-
Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking,
Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion
Manufacturing Process A Product Development
Approach, May 2005
 22. Markers types:  Blocks or Sections  Blocked or
sectioned markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one
style in one or two sizes.  Continuous  Block or section
marker Continuous markers contain all the pattern pieces
for all sizes included in a single cutting. Continuous
marker
 23. Markers types:  Open marker  Marker made with
full pattern pieces.  Closed marker  Marker made with
half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the
tube (tubular knit). Closed marker
 24. Marker making Manually produced Computerized
marker making (CAD)
 25. Manual marker  Created on marker paper or directly
on fabric ply  Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.  Time
consuming.  Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain
line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)  Accuracy
depends on individual’s skill.
 26. Marker making Computerised marker  Accurate 
Shortest response time.  Direct or digitized. 
Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No
overlapping/no omissions  Parameters (style #,size, etc.)
for markers are entered into the computer.  Can be
printed/recalled/modified.  Criteria can be set by
technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.
 27. Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way  The Nap/ One/ Way
marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is made with every pattern
placed with the “down” direction of the pattern in the
same direction.  This mode is necessary for fabrics that
are asymmetric.  All patterns are placed on-grain, and in
the “down” direction, which is usually toward the left
edge (starting point where the legend is written).  The
Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but least
efficient of the three nap directions for a marker. Source:
Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The
Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product
Development Approach, May 2005
 28. Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way  The Nap/ Either/
Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is
no restriction of which way the pattern are oriented.  The
patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”, placed
wherever they fit best, only making sure that the patterns
are on-grain.  The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually
the most efficient mode yielding the highest fabric
utilization. Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly
Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading,
Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing
Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
 29. Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down  The Nap/ Up/&
Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than
the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/
Either/ Way marker.  In order to get a better fit between
the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in
opposite directions.  This method is yields moderately
good fabric utilization, and good quality. Source: Kahn,
Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting
Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The
Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development
Approach, May 2005
 30. Marker Efficiency Area of patterns in the marker plan
X 100% Total area of the marker plan  It is determined
for fabric utilization  Minimum waste Factors affecting
marker efficiency  Fabric characteristics (fabric width,
length of design repeat etc.)  Shape of Pattern pieces
(large pieces – less flexibility)  Grain requirements
 31.  Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths
of fabric on a spreading table cutting table or specially
designed surface in preparation for the cutting process 
Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a
single marker Requirement of spreading  Shade sorting
of cloth pieces Spreading equipment  Spreading surfaces
( table, pin  Correct ply direction and adequate lay
stability table, vacuum table)  Alignment of plies 
Spreading machines  Correct ply tension  Elimination
of fabric faults  Avoidance of distortion in the spread
 32. Spreading equipment  Spreading surfaces ( table, pin
table, vacuum table)  Spreading machines
 33. Spreading Manual Machine
 34.  In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from its
package which, if it is a roll, may be supported by a frame
and carried along the table where the end is secured by
weights or by clamps.  The operators work back from
the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no
tension and that there are no wrinkles.
 35.  Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from
end to end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on
the spread.  Spreading machines may include:  A
motor to drive  A platform on which the operator rides
 A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the
ends of ply in place  A ply counter  An alignment
shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides  A
turntable  A direct drive on the fabric support,
synchronized with the speed of travel, to reduce or
eliminate tension in the fabric being spread.
 36. Nap one way & face one way spreading Nap either
way & face to face spreading Spreading Mode Nap one-
way face to face spreading Nap either way & face one
way spreading
 37. Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way
spreading  Most common spreading method that can also
be done manually.  Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand
and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators
(thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking
along both sides of cutting table.  While using machine,
the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine
carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading
the fabric in the process.  Every layer has to start from
same end thus spreading machine has to come back to
starting position without spreading the fabric. This return
movement of spreading machine is called as “dead
heading” Nap one way Face one way Source: Prabir Jana,
“Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
 38. Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face
spreading  The quickest spreading method while using
spreading machine.  Difficult to achieve manually. 
The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being
held in place by catcher, at layer end fabric is not cut just
folded and held by another catcher while the fabric is
being laid by the machine during it’s return movement
also. Face to face Nap either way Source: Prabir Jana,
“Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
 39. Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
 Most time consuming method of spreading.  The lose
end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries
the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the
fabric in the process.  At layer end the fabric is being
cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
return back to starting position without.  Now from the
starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
Face to face Nap one way Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading
& Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
 40. Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way
spreading  The lose end of fabric is being held by
catcher and machine carries the rolls along table thus
unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.  At
layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric
roll by 180 degree and start spreading the second layer
from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead
heading by the machine in this spreading mode. Face one
way Nap either way Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading &
Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
 41. Spreading costs  Labour cost  Fabric waste 
Splicing loss  End loss  Width loss
 42. Cutting Cutting Manual Scissors Machine Portable
cutting knives Straight knife Round knife Stationary
cutters Band knife Die cutting Servo cutting Plasma
cutting Water jet cutting Laser cutting Position markers
Notchers Drills and thread markers
 43. Scissors
 44. Portable cutting knives Power system Handle
Sharpening Cutting blade Blade guard Up and down
movement One way thrust as the circular blade makes
contact with the fabric Round knife Base plate Straight
knife
 45. Portable cutting knives Straight knife Round knife 
Vertical blade  Popular, light and fast.  Reciprocates
up and down  Suitable only for cutting in straight lines 
Corners and curves can be cut accurately or very gradual
curves, in depths of  Most versatile and commonly used
about 15cm  Blades length - 6 to 14 inches  Spread
depth depends on blade length & adjustable height of the
blade guard  Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or bulky
material, or lower lays of harder material such as shirts 
All of the pieces cut from a lay are  Small blade cuts
single layer identical  A round blade contacts the spread
at an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before the bottom ply
 46. Stationary cutters: Band knife  Contains a narrow,
sharpened, endless steel band  Fabric layers are guided
by hand against the blade  Air cushion is provided below
the fabric layers  Plies are stapled together to prevent
slippage  Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to
300mm  Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are
cut precisely  Band knives are more accurate for small
blocks or for shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks
 47. Stationary cutters: Servo cutting  Overhead servo
motor  Adjustable speed  Suspension system that
supports the knife perpendicular to the cutting table 
Knife is mounted on a swivel arm  It combines vertical
cutting and band knife cutting into one machine
 48. Cutting Stationary cutters: Die cutting  Dies are pre
– shaped metal outlines  Most accurate  Die cutting
operation involves  Placement of fabric  Positioning
the die on the fabric  Engaging the machine to press the
die into the fabric  Used mainly for leather, coated and
laminated materials  Areas where the same patterns are
used over a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps
 49. Cutting Stationary cutters: Plasma cutting  Cutting is
achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high
temperature ionized gas (argon)  Faster cutter of single
plies  High engineering and cost issues  Problems –
same as for laser cutting  Cutting is achieved by means
of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas
(argon)  Faster cutter of single plies  High engineering
and cost issues
 50. Cutting Stationary cutters: Water jet cutting  Very
high velocity, fine stream of water  High pressure jet
acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact  As the jet
penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum
decreases and cutting ability is reduced frayed edges 
Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality 
Leather, plastic, vinyl  High equipment costs
 51. Cutting Position markers: Notchers  Notches can be
cut by straight knife too but accuracy is required 
Specialized notching equipment provides greater accuracy
because a guide lines up the notcher with the cut edge 
Hot notcher consists of a heating element (blade) that
slightly scorches the fibers adjacent to the notch
(thermoplastic fibers)  Two types of notches:  Straight
notch and V-notch
 52. Cutting Position markers: Drills and thread markers 
Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a hole and
spirit level  Used for reference markers needed away
from the edge of a garment part, e.g. position of pockets,
darts, etc.  A hole is drilled through the lay  Normally,
drill is used cold, hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it  Loose weave – hot drill is used
which slightly scorches or fuse the edges of the hole 
Hypodermic (or dye spot) drill – leaves small deposit of
paint on each ply of fabric  ALL drill holes must
eventually be concealed by the construction of the
garment
 53. Preparation for sewing Ticketing Bundles
 54. Preparation for sewing Ticketing  Tickets carry
details : style no, size, ply no, bundle no., date issued 
Operations may be incorporated for payment purposes,
control of work and facilitating quality control
 55. Preparation for sewing Bundling  Small batches of
garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way  Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.  If
ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done
Bundle ticket consists of :  Order no. 6015  Bundle no.
1430  Quantity 12  Style no. 3145  Size 12  Section
collar
 56. Cut parts received from the cutting room Bulk
production begins In line inspection Ironing Rough
checking Button-button hole/ bartack End line checking
Final checking Measurement checking Tagging Packing
Ex - factory QA audit by the buying house Production
continues
 57. Sewing department Production system Seams and
stitches
 58. Make through system Conventional bundle system
Clump system Progressive bundle system Production
system Flexible flow system Straight line system Synchro
flow system Unit production system Modular
manufacturing system
 59. Production system: Make through system  It is the
traditional method of manufacture in which an operator
makes right through one garment at a time. Source:
ApparelKey.com
 60. Production system: Conventional bundle system 
Sewing machines are arranged in lines.  The work flows
from the central (store) area to the first machine, from the
first machine back to the store, and then on to the next
machine, and so forth.  A distributor stationed at the
store is responsible for receiving and dispatching the
work.  The work in progress is in the form of bundles. 
These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag, or
the garment parts may be wrapped and tied. Source:
ApparelKey.com
 61. Production system: Clump system  A worker collects
a clump of materials from the worktable and carries out
the first operation.  After he has completed his part of
the work, he returns it to the table.  A worker for the
second operation then continues the work and so on. 
The process is ' collection - work -return' continues until
the whole garment has been assembled. Source:
ApparelKey.com
 62. Production system: Progressive bundle system 
Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.  Each
operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the
bundle and passes it to the next operator.  There is a
storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the
inter-process work between each operation.  The work is
routed by means of tickets.  This system is the most
widely used system in the garment industry today. It is
used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Source: ApparelKey.com
 63. Production system: Flexible flow system  A section
of sewing operators, each with a supply of work in a rack
at the side, work at an engineered work place.  The
machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work
can be planned using the correct number of operators in
sequence.  For style A garments, the work distributed
after operation 1 can be distributed to the two operators
performing operation 2. On completion, the work from
both workers is then sent to operator 3. After operation 3,
the work is continued by the two operators performing
operation 4 and so on.  When a new style is to be loaded
on to the system, the number of operators needed for each
operation must be planned in detail to ensure a balanced
output. Source: ApparelKey.com
 64. Production system: Straight line system  The
manufacturing process is broken down into several
operations, which take the same time to complete. 
Groups of operators are required to handle only individual
garments.  The garment parts pass from one operator to
the next, until the garment has been completely made up
by one group of operators.  The central distribution unit
may be a fixed table or a a conveyor belt (its speed will be
set to suit the cycle time). Source: ApparelKey.com
 65. Production system: Synchro flow system  Garment
parts of the same size and color are processed separately.
 Different garment parts can be processed
simultaneously for assembling.  At the same time,
collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc., from other lines also
go down a central line.  The different garment parts are
then processed together to form completed garments.
Source: ApparelKey.com
 66. Production system: Unit production system  A unit
production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled
production line.  It is a type of line layout that uses an
overhead transport system to move individual units from
work-station to work station for assembly.  All the parts
for a single garment are advanced through the production
line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels
along an overhead conveyor.  Production operations are
completed without removing the parts from the carrier. 
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional
system of bundling, tying and untying, and manually
moving garment parts.  Electronic data can be collected
from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory
data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and
performance data for prompt decision. Source:
ApparelKey.com
 67. Production system: Modular manufacturing system 
Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams, or
modules.  The team works on one/a few garment at a
time instead of a bundle of garments.  The operators
stand /sit at their stations and rotate to different machines
as they work, becoming familiar with multiple steps in
producing the garment. Source: ApparelKey.com
 68. Seams and stitches
 69. Thread-guides Thumb-nut screw Stitch regulator
Take-up lever Tension discs/checkspring Needle bar
Needle Reversing lever Throat plate Needle guard Presser
foot Machine bed
 70. Needle Bar Needle Throat plate Needle Eye Presser
Foot Feed Dog
 71. Stitch forming devices Stitch Device used Lock stitch
Bobbin hook Chain stitch Looper Over lock Looper and
spreader Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
 72. The bobbin of a lock stitch machine Source: Glock &
Kunz (Third edition)
 73. Machine beds Raised bed Flat bed Source: Glock &
Kunz (Third edition)
 74. Machine beds Cylinder bed Feed of arm Source:
Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
 75. Machine beds Post bed Source: Glock & Kunz (Third
edition)
 76.  Garments are shaped and formed in three ways: 
materials molded to a form,  fabric pieces cut to shape
and assembled by bonding, and  pieces cut to shape and
sewn.  For the purpose of standardization of stitch and
seam formations, the U.S government developed a guide
that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United
States Federal Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal
Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.  The British
Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and
Stitchings was also developed about the same time.  The
Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D
6193, Standards Related to Stitches and Seams. Source:
Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
 77. ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:  A
stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing
thread in a specific repeated unit.  A seam is a line
where two or more fabrics are joined.  A stitching
consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for
ornamental purposes or finishing an edge or both. Source:
Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
 78. Seams  The basic function of a seam is to hold
pieces of fabric together.  To perform its function
correctly, the seam should have properties or
characteristics closely allied to those of the fabrics being
sewn.  The careful selection of the most appropriate
seam, a suitable stitch type together with the correct thread
and machine settings for the fabric and end-product is of
paramount importance. Source: Glock & Kunz (Third
edition)
 79. Physical properties of seam  Strength: a seam must
be strong. Strength is usually measured in two directions:
across the seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along
the seam (longitudinal strength).  Extensibility 
Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not
abrade or wear easily during everyday use of the garment
 Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel
during everyday use of the garment  Appearance
properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in
an unobtrusive and efficient manner with no discontinuity
in physical properties or appearance.  Balance Source:
Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
 80. Classification of seams  Superimposed seam  Lap
seam  Bound seam  Flat seam Superimposed seam 
Edge finishing Bound seam Lap seam Edge finishing Flat
seam Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
 81. Stitches Stitch properties  Stitch size has three
dimensions: length, width, and depth.  Stitch length is
specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can
be an indicator of quality. High spi means short stitches;
low spi means long stitches. Generally, the greater the spi,
the more the holding power and seam strength.  Stitch
width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the
formation of one stitch or single line of stitching. Stitches
that have width dimensions require multiple needles or
lateral movement of thread carriers such as the needle
bars, loopers or spreaders.  Stitch depth is the distance
between the upper and lower surface of the stitch. It is a
factor for blind stitches.
 82. Stitch classification  Stitch classification is based on
structure of the stitch and method of interlacing. Source:
Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
 83. Stitch classification 100 Class stitch: Single thread
chain stitch  Using one needle thread and one blind
looper Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction 103
Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming 104 Class One
thread Blind stitch for hemming Source:
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/100cl.ht
m
 84. Stitch classification 200 Class stitch: Single thread
hand sewn stitch  Using one needle thread Diagram
Stitch class Thread count Typical uses 202 Class One
Thread Basting, tacking or repairs 205 Class One Thread
Pick stitch - topstitching Source:
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/200cl.ht
m
 85. Stitch classification 300 Class stitch: Two or more
thread lock stitch  Using Needle Thread(s) and One
Bobbin Hook Thread Diagram Stitch class Thread count
Typical uses 301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple
plies 304 Class Two thread Zig-zag stitch; a stretch
lockstitch 306 Class Two thread Blind stitch 315 Class
Two threads Three step zig-zag Source:
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/300cl.ht
m
 86. Stitch classification 400 Class stitch: Multi-thread
chain stitch  Using one or more needle threads and one
or more looper threads Diagram Stitch class Thread count
Typical uses 401 Class Two threads Seaming multiple
plies with moderate stretch 404 Class Two threads
Topstitching or seaming with stretch Three threads
"Bottom cover stitch; a (greater) stretch chain stitch 406
Class Source:
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/400cl.ht
m
 87. Stitch classification 500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread
over edge chain stitch  Using needle thread(s) and looper
thread(s) Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
501 Class One thread One needle over edge stitch for
serging / “blanket stitch" 502 Class Two thread One
needle over edge stitch for serging 503 Class Two thread
Over edge stitch for serging with crossover on edge of
fabric 504 Class Three thread Over edge stitch for serging
and light seaming Source:
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.ht
m
 88. Stitch classification 500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread
over edge chain stitch  Using needle thread(s) and looper
thread(s) Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
512 Class Four Thread Mock safety stitch for seaming
with wide bite and greater stretch for knits 514 Class Four
Thread Over edge stitch for seaming with wide bite and
greater stretch for knits 515 Class Four Thread True safety
stitch for seaming with good stretch for wovens and knits
516 Class Five Thread True safety stitch for seaming with
good stretch for wovens and knits Source:
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.ht
m
 89. Stitch classification 600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread
cover stitches Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical
uses 602 Class Four thread Cover stitch or seaming knits
605 Class Five thread Cover stitch 607 Class Six thread
Wide cover stitch Source:
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/600cl.ht
m
 90. Responsibilities of quality department  To impart
quality in the product.  To ensure that the product has
achieved the quality parameters of buyers.  To restrict
the defects entering into the final product.  Main
function of quality department is to carry out inspection. 
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or
review of raw materials, partially finished components of
the garments and completely finished garments in relation
to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well
as measuring the garments to check if they meet the
required measurements. Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K.
Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
 91. Principle of inspection (inspection loop) Inspection
Correction of defects Determination of causes of defects
Detection of defects Feedback of these defects to
appropriate personnel Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K.
Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
 92. How much to inspect ?  No inspection  100%
inspection  Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
 Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling  Statistical
sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to
the amount of inspection to be performed Source: P. B.
Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel
products”
 93. Inspection terms  Sample: A sample consists of one
or more units of a product drawn from a lot or batch, the
units of the sample being selected at random without
regards to their quality. The number of units of a product
in the sample is the sample size.  Lot or batch: Means
‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’, that is a collection
of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn
and inspected.  Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is
the number of units of a product in a lot or batch 
Percent defective = Number of defectives 100 Number of
units inspected Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “
Managing quality in apparel products”
 94. Identification of defects  Major Defect: A defect
that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause
the item to be second.  Minor Defect: A defect that
would not cause the product to be termed as a second
either because of severity or location.  Second: A
‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that
affects the saleability or serviceability of the item. Source:
P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in
apparel products”
 95. Spreading defects Possible Pattern Defects:  Pattern
parts missing  Skimpy marking  Mixed parts 
Generous marking  Patterns not facing in the correct
direction  Marker too wide on napped fabrics  Not 
Patterns not all facing in the same enough knife clearance
freedom direction on a one-way fabric   Mismatched
checks and stripes Patterns not aligned with respect to the
 Notches and drill marks omitted, fabric grain 
indistinct, or misplaced Line definition poor Source: P. B.
Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel
products”
 96. Cutting defects  Frayed edges  Fuzzy, ragged or
serrated edges  Ply-to-ply fusion  Single-edge fusion 
Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut  Notches  Drills
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing
quality in apparel products”
 97. Sewing defects  Needle Damage  Pleated seams 
Feed Damage  Wrong stitch density  Skipped stitches
 Uneven stitch density  Thread breaks  Staggered
stitch  Broken stitches  Improperly formed stitches 
Seam grin  Oil spots or stains  Seam pucker Source: P.
B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in
apparel products”
 98. Seaming defects  Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
 Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line  Insecure
back stitching  Twisted seam  Mismatched checks or
stripes  Mismatched seam  Extraneous part caught in a
seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam 
Reversed garment part  Blind stitching showing on the
face side  Wrong seam or stitch type used  Wrong
shade of thread used Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K.
Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
 99. Assembly defects  Finished components nor correct
to size or shape or not symmetrical.  Finished garment
not to size  Parts, components, closures or features
omitted  Components or features wrongly positioned or
misaligned  Interlining incorrectly positioned  Lining
too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the
garment, twisted,  Garment parts cockling, pleated,
twisted, showing bubbles and fullness  Garment parts
shaded  Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction 
Mismatched trimming Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K.
Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
 100. Checks for final inspection  Open seams  Snaps,
fasteners, buttons  Skipped stitches  Labels  Cracked
stitches  Elastic  Stitches/inch  Measurements 
Uneven seams  Mends or repairs  Crooked, puckered,
curled, pleated seams  Stripe  Needle and feed cuts 
Hems  Unclipped threads and Long ends  Trim  Raw
edge  Broken needle  Distortion Source: P. B. Mehta
and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel
products”
 101. AQL: Accepted quality level  The AQL is the
maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of
sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a
process average.  The AQL is a designated value of
percent defective that the customer indicates will be
accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling
procedures to be used. Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K.
Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
 102. AQL: Accepted quality level Sample size code letters
Lot or Batch Size Sample size code letter 2 to 8 A 9 to 15
B 16 to 25 C 26 to 50 D 51 to 90 E 91 to 150 F 151 to 280
G 281 to 500 H 501 to 1200 J 1201 to 3200 K 3201 to
10000 L 10001 to 35000 M
 103. AQL: Accepted quality level Sampling Plans Sample
Size Code Letter Sample Size Acceptable Quality Level
2.5 4 6.5 Ac Re Ac Re Ac 10 Re Ac Re A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1
2B301010112C501010112D801121223
E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4 F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6 G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7
8 H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11 J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15 K 125 7
8 10 11 14 15 21 22 L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22 M 315
14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22
 104.  Finishing is the last stage of garment production
where garment gets its final look.  In this department
each garment undergoes different finishing processes.  It
undergoes for quality check for several number of time
which sets the garment free from defects.  Buyer
specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing
quality in apparel products”
 105. Operations performed at finishing stage  Thread
cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished
and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and
trim the loose and uncut threads.  Stain removal:
Removal of the following type of stains: Oil, yellow,
black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink,
rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains  Seam
ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables
with vacuum boards.  Final finishing: The entire
garment is finished using various finishing equipments.
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing
quality in apparel products”
 106. Operations performed at finishing stage  Tagging
and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging
and packing section. It is the responsibility of the packing
supervisors to provide the tagging operators with the
appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs the
tagging operator as to where and how the tag has to be
placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind while
placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main
label and the size on tag. The step after the tagging is to
pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing
quality in apparel products”
 107. Operations performed at finishing stage Presentation
checking and cartoon packing It is very important to check
the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the
packed garments for the following things:  Poly bags are
as per specification.  Tags and price stickers are as per
specification.  Packing is secured or not if specified. 
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.  Hangers are
there or not if specified.  Garment has been folded as per
specification etc. Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj,
“ Managing quality in apparel products”
 108. Operations performed at finishing stage Presentation
checking and cartoon packing Once, checking is done they
send the garments for the carton packing. The following
things are kept in mind during carton packing:  Number
of garments to be packed in one carton.  Ratio asked for
example S:M:L=2:1:1  Packing the garments in the
cartons as per specified.  Closing the cartons with cello
tape.  Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.  Writing on
carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's
address, ratio, net weight of the carton etc.

Production Planning & Merchandising


Objectives of Production Planning :
To determine capacity of all manufacturing departments and to
plan systematically coordinated
To translate orders received from sales department into orders
on the works department and to ensure steady plans of
production activities.
To promote fuller utilization of plants.
To assist labor towards right and greater earnings.
To train staff in the effective performance of their duties

Md. Mazadul Hasan Shishir


Production Officer at Intramex textile ltd
Follow

 Production Planning & Merchandising


1. 1. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering
2. 2. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Prepared By: Prepared by : Mazadul Hasan
sheshir Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production
Planning & Merchandising 2
3. 3. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Study On Production Planning &
Merchandising Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production
Planning & Merchandising 3
4. 4. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Acknowledgement For the successful
execution of this report, first we would like to thanks to
the almighty. Next, with warm gratitude we would like to
remember all of them whose enthusiastic supports have
contributed largely on the timely accomplishment of my
entire internship program. We are pleased to get a
fabulous opportunity to carry on our internship program
with one of the finest garment manufacturer of the
country namely FCI situated in Old DEPZ.We are very
much grateful to Prof. Sayed Fakhrul Hassan, Chairman
of Textile dept. of Southeast University for making this
arrangement in such a garment of the country. We
herewith thankfully remember the name Md.
Moniruzzaman (Deputy Manager) and Md. Habibur
Rahman (Personnel), Azharul Islam, General Manager
(Marketing & Merchandising) Padma Polycotton who has
helped us attaining our internship in Garments sector and
guided me by providing necessary information and
advices throughout this program. Saturday, December 28,
2013 Production Planning & Merchandising 4
5. 5. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Introduction Company profile Padma poly
cotton knit fabrics ltd. • Situated at Tejgaon industrial
area • Year of established in 1995 • Main section 1.
Knitting section 2. Dyeing & finishing section 3.
Garments section( includes sewing, cutting, finishing
unit) • Major buyer: Europe & USA (S.oliver, Defacto
etc.) Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning
& Merchandising 5
6. 6. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering FCI BD Ltd. • Situated at Dhaka Export
Processing Zone in Savar • Year of Established 1996 1.
Major section 2. Sewing section 3. Cutting section 4.
Finishing section • Major buyer: M&S, Zara, Nike and
Alexon etc. Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production
Planning & Merchandising 6
7. 7. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Planning: Planning is exercise of intelligent
anticipation in order to establish how an objective can be
achieved, or a need fulfilled, in circumstances which are
invariable restrictive. Planning is an act of prediction, the
accuracy of which varies enormously depending upon the
kind of objective, kind of circumstances, the skill of the
planner and his techniques and chance. There are three
types of planning: 1.Production planning relating the
qualities of sale. 2.Production planning relating to the
method. 3.Production planning relating to time. Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 7
8. 8. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Production Production is the process by
which goods and services are created. Production systems
combine materials, labors, and capital resources in an
organized way with the objective of producing some
goods or service. Production system may occur in
factories, banks, stores, hospitals etc. In all instances,
some input to the system is being processed within the
system to produce a goods or services as an output; we
are in fact dealing with the operations phases of any
enterprise. Objectives of Production Planning • • • • • To
determine capacity of all manufacturing departments and
to plan systematically coordinated To translate orders
received from sales department into orders on the works
department and to ensure steady plans of production
activities. To promote fuller utilization of plants. To assist
labor towards right and greater earnings. To train staff in
the effective performance of their duties Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 8
9. 9. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Merchandising Merchandising is a process
through which products are planned, developed, executed
and presented to the buyer. It includes directing and
overseeing the development of product line from start to
finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team
of merchandisers and marketers work together under a
profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign
buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being
handled. Type of merchandising done in garment exports
• • Marketing merchandising. Product merchandising.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 9
10. 10. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Merchandisers responsibility • • • • • • • • • • •
• Product Development Market and product Analysis
Selling the concept Booking orders Confirming
Deliveries Designing and Sampling Costing Mediating
production and quality departments Giving shipping
instructions and following shipping, Helping
documentation department Taking responsibility for
inspections and Following up the shipment. Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 10
11. 11. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Background Mainly we found this reports on
production planning & merchandising• • • • 01. A study
book about production planning -Mintu Sarker & Taslima
Akter. (3rd batch,SEU) 02. A study book about
production planning and merchandising-pritam das &
Kamrul, 4thbatch, SEU 03. A Study on production
planning and merchandizing in a garments industryMd.
Mahfuzur Rahman Khan & Md. Kamrul Hasan Joarder,
5th Batch.SEU. 04. A Study on Production planning and
Merchandising of Garments industry-6th Batch.SEU All
the report is written by them following our topic on
production planning & merchandising Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 11
12. 12. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Theirs Findings • Flow chart of production
planning • Description of production planning • Procedure
of production planning • Garments export procedure •
Process of line balancing • SMV calculation & analysis •
Sequence of product development Saturday, December
28, 2013 • • • • Company profile Planning & Production
Planning Types of production planning Object &
procedure of production planning • Qualification &
responsibilities of a merchandiser • Work study & method
study • Objects of their work Production Planning &
Merchandising 12
13. 13. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Our Findings Mainly we are focusing on
merchandising in details & work of a merchandiser in
production planning in every stage of garment section.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 13
14. 14. Methodology Southeast University Flow process of
garments manufacturing: Department of Textile
Engineering Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production
Planning & Merchandising 14
15. 15. Description of Export procedure: Southeast
University Pricing: It is also called costing. Fabric cost,
Accessories cost, CM cost, Overhead cost, Transportation
cost etc is included here Department of Textile
Engineering Space booking Space booking is very
important for production. While getting approval, space
booking is must for storing fabric and accessories P.O.
sent by buyer Full meaning of P.O is purchase order. It is
sent by buyer when order is confirmed. P.O contains
order no, date, supplier description, buyer name &
address, factory name & address, product description,
packing description, terms & conditions & various
instructions. Master L/C sent by buyer L/C means letter
of credit. It is a very important document. Master L/C is
sent by buyer and it is made by bank. L/C contains all the
payment & other terms Making of T & A calendar It
means time & action calendar. In this calendar all the
planning actions are done by which works run to meet the
delivery date. Fabric & accessories booking: Fabric &
accessories are booked according to T & A calendar. It is
done by merchandiser. Saturday, December 28, 2013
Production Planning & Merchandising 15
16. 16. BTB opening: BTB means Back to back L/C. It is
opened against the master L/C. For fabric & accessories
booking it is essential and it is done for security. Fabric &
trims in house: Department charge check them if there is
any damage of box & then Fabric & trims are come to the
store, store in of Textile Engineering in house them.
Checking inventory & making inventory report: Then
inventory is checked again and make a report. This report
goes to the commercial department & merchandiser. PP
meeting: PP meeting stands for pre-production meeting. It
is done before bulk production of an order. Following
Persons are present in this meeting. Merchandisers.
Production manager. Cutting master. Quality controller.
Production planning officer. Production planning
manager Pattern checking & trial cutting: After PP
meeting pattern is checked again and trial cutting is done
to check, the cutting is correct or wrong. Bulk cutting:
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 16 Bulk cutting is done for bulk
production. From here bulk production is start. Southeast
University
17. 17. Numbering, sorting & bundling: Cutting pieces are
numbered, sorted & then bundled for easy production.
Production line set up: It is also called line balancing. It is
veryof Textile Engineeringproduction. The objectives
Department important for bulk of line balancing are given
below: Higher productivity Proper work flow Quality
product Fair distribution of workers Cost savings In-time
delivery to buyer Increase efficiency etc. Bulk
Production: It includes: Sewing Ironing In-line inspection
etc. Southeast University Saturday, December 28, 2013
Production Planning & Merchandising 17
18. 18. Finishing: After bulk production finishing is done.
Final inspection booking: Booking is required for
finalDepartment ofIn a inspection industry, time is very
sensitive inspection. Textile Engineering matter. So
before finale inspection one needs to book the inspection
table for a particular order. Final inspection: During final
inspection, present 3rd party QC: SGS ITS Moody
Bureau VERITAS etc. IC (Inspection certificate): The
international inspection group gives a certificate of their
inspection. Truck loading & transport to the port: Cargo
Company takes the vessel to the port by truck or other.
Hand over the goods to the logistic firms: They handover
it to the logistic firm at port and after loading to the ship
get the bill of Saturday, Production Planning &
Merchandising 18 lading. December 28, 2013 Southeast
University
19. 19. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production
Planning & Merchandising 19
20. 20. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering • Merchandisers work in design section:
Results & discussion: • We have found that Bangladesh is
lacking of quality fashion designers. Economy of
Bangladesh mostly depends on RMG sector but there is
not sufficient opportunity for good fashion designers. So
there is good possibility of improving our industry if we
can improve our fashion as well as design sector.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 20
21. 21. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Production planning in pattern section:
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 21
22. 22. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Merchandiser work in pattern section: •
Pattern master makes the garments pattern. Merchandiser
only checks that the pattern is according to buyer’s
recommendation or not. He/she send buyer information if
any modification of pattern is possible. Result &
discussion: • Theoretical and practical section has a huge
difference in pattern section. Those we have learned in
theoretically are not implemented in this section directly;
they use their own easy method to make a pattern.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 22
23. 23. Spreading: • After ratio break down planning of
spreading is done. In this planning mainly the method of
spreading is selected by which method Department of
such as normal, spreading of fabric will be doneTextile
Engineering one way, slitting, zigzag etc. Southeast
University • A sample of Spreading machine inspection of
Padma poly cotton is given below Result & discussion:
Spreading quantity depends on buyer requirements. In the
above table we have seen that the variation of spreading is
different because there are different kinds of buyer.
Another reason is manual spreading is used in some
tables. That’s why the spreading lay quantity is varying.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 23
24. 24. Cutting: • Cutting plan is done here. How the cutting
process will be run and quality will be maintained
discussed here. Some cutting plan is given below:
Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering
Result & discussion: In cutting section cutting pieces are
varying for following reasons, such as• Number of pieces.
• Number of layer. • Cutting fault. • Manual spreading. •
From above it is seen that table 1 & 3 cutting man keep
consistency because they are more professional than
others. Other reason is fabric lay are manually spreaded in
table 2 & 4 and their cut pieces found much more faults.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 24
25. 25. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production
Planning & Merchandising 25
26. 26. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Merchandiser work in cutting section: •
Merchandiser does the ratio breakdown for marker for
marker planning and then he sends it to CAD section for
producing an efficient marker. He helps to make decision
of fabric spreading. In cutting his main job is to help in
making the flow process of cutting. Sometimes when
cutting supervisor cannot solve any problem then a
merchandiser try to solve it. Result & discussion: •
Though it is the duty of merchandiser to make ratio
breakdown sheet, we have seen it is done by line in
charge practically. In case of spreading manual & normal
spreading is done. Manual spreading is done because
spreading machine is very costly & manual spreading
method is appropriate for Bangladesh. Every marker is
checked before starting a cutting in this factory and
sometimes it is found that there is measurement mistake
in marker, and then is fixed manually. It is the fault of
CAD operator. They should be well trained. Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 26
27. 27. Production planning in sewing section: • Southeast
University In sewing section before starting production
some planning is done. This planning includes line
balancing, No of machine required for each part, No of
operator, planning of inspection. When to start,
production per day, and fabric & accessories arrival from
store etc is Department of Textile Engineering discussed
here. Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning
& Merchandising 27
28. 28. Southeast University Merchandiser work in sewing

section: of Textile Engineering Department  First of all


in sewing section merchandiser do the line balancing to
assure maximum production in short time. He/she selects
the machines & number of machines required for on
order. If buyer gives the S.M.V sheet, then merchandiser
checks if it is appropriate for the factory. If it is not
appropriate, then merchandiser bargains with buyer to
modify S.M.V. It’s his duty to reduce S.M.V for factory
production, because more the S.M.V lowers, higher the
production. Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production
Planning & Merchandising 28
29. 29. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering • SMV: SMV stands for standard minute
value. It is very important for garments especially in
production section. It is mainly done to control the speed
of production. • SMV Calculation: Normal Time:
Average observed time performance rating. SMV = Basic
time + (Allowances Basic time) = Basic time (1
+Allowances Time) Target = Saturday, December 28,
2013 Efficiency Production Planning & Merchandising
29
30. 30. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Planning in store section: • Store section is
also very important for factory as cutting, sewing and like
other section. If improper planning is done for Store
section then followings can be occurred: • • • • Less
material (Accessories/Trims/Fabric) can be stored (If not
counted properly). Quality of stored materials may not be
correct (If inspection is done incorrectly). Stored
materials can be damaged due to improper maintenance
(Improper Temperature/Dust/faulty materials control).
Materials can be stoles if security is not maintained
correctly. Merchandiser work in Store section: •
Merchandiser is responsible to book fabric and
accessories from other supplier and he checks the arrival
of fabric and accessories in due time. He will be
responsible it goods are not come in correct time. Result
& discussion: • In store section we have seen how
accessories come, inspected and in house them.
Unfortunately there was no supply of fabric while we
were in fabric sector. In fabric sector we have seen the
quality inspection process of fabric in 4 point system.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 30
31. 31. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering • Production planning in finishing section: •
Merchandiser work in finishing section: In finishing
section merchandiser helps to do the planning of a
particular order and sometimes his duty is to come in
finishing section to check that finishing is running in
correct or faulty method. Result & discussion: This is the
finale section before dispatching goods to ship. Outlook is
a great factor in RMG sector. If all the quality is good but
finishing is faulty then customer will not pay attention to
it, so buyer will reject the goods before shipment. So it is
wise to do as buyer requirement & it is better if it is
possible to modify the requirement to increase outlook
quality, but for this one must take advice from buyer.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 31
32. 32. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering • Merchandising section: Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 32
33. 33. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering • • • • • • • • • • • • Confirmation & T & AC
Make Fit sample confirmation & T & AC Make Fit
sample Approval Lab-dip submission Lab-dip approval
Receiving the Master L/C Yarn/Fabric/Trim Booking
BTB L/C opening for Booking Accessories/Trims PP
sample submission PP sample approval Trims submission
Trims approval Saturday, December 28, 2013 • • • • • • • •
• • • Yarn/Fabric/Trims in house Inventory of received
Yarn/Fabric/Tri Bulk Fabric/Test reports submission Bulk
Fabric/Test reports approval Bulk production Test of
production sample Test sample approval Final Inspection
Ex-Factory date Cut-off d Receipt of Bill of Lading
Production Planning & Merchandising 33
34. 34. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Objective of the study Broad objective: • The
broad objective of this report is to analyze the entire
departmental work process of Garments (woven/knit)
industry and addressing related departmental
shortcomings in light of marketing. Specific objectives: •
To address the broad objectives, there should have some
specific objectives. These are: • To find out how all
departments of Garments factory operates. • To analyze
critically all aspects of the departmental work procedures.
• To analyze how all departments coordinate among
themselves. • To find out major existing and potential
controllable and uncontrollable shortcomings of all
departments and their effects on overall marketing of the
organization. • To find ways to overcome the
shortcomings in light of marketing tools and concepts. •
To represent a brief overview of RMG sector. Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 34
35. 35. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Limitations of the study • Major limitations
of this study are outlined below: • All personnel are
always very much busy and work under extreme pressure
for their nature of job and huge volume of the business.
Thus they couldn’t give me sufficient time. • Since all
their buyers are located outside of the country therefore it
was not possible to measure their image from customers’
point of view. • Due to time and cost restriction, the study
is concentrated in selected major departments. • The study
has been conducted based on observing and interview of
the employees. • Limited sample size for interview.
Saturday, December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 35
36. 36. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering Findings: • Production planning &
merchandising work is huge task. We try our best to work
as much as possible. Mainly we observed the garments
section in the factory. In garments section we observed
mainly the marker, spreading, cutting, merchandising &
finishing section. We have found that where the
automatic production process is used there is much
production than manual production process. Skill worker
is one of the main issues to effective production process.
Administrative tools also play a vital role for effective
production planning. Is further work is necessary:
Production planning & merchandising is a lot of work, we
cannot touch the all of thing because of short time. There
are lots of things which are studying more on production
planning & merchandising. Saturday, December 28, 2013
Production Planning & Merchandising 36
37. 37. Southeast University Department of Textile
Engineering • References: • • • • • [1]-----http://padma-
group.com/padmapolycotton/index.php [2]-----
http://www.fcibd.com/services.php [3]-----
http://www.fcibd.com/products.php [4]-----Production
planning & control (pdf) [5]-----Practice of garments
Merchandising & Management by Engr Md. Faruk Hosen
[6]-----From class sheet [7]----- Practice of garments
Merchandising & Management by Engr Md. Faruk Hosen
[8]----- http://www.textileschools.com • • • Saturday,
December 28, 2013 Production Planning &
Merchandising 37

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