KeraGuard

Powerful protection
and repair for hair
KeraGuard
Powerful protection and repair for hair

KeraGuard combines tara tannins derived from Caesal- KeraGuard

pinia spinosa pods and organic sunflower sprout extract. • Protects hair against heat,
This unique combination is revealed as a powerful anti- urban pollution and UV stress
oxidant elixir for hair care applications. • Repairs chemically treated hair
• Prevents the color fading of hair
Although hair is a physiological phenomenon, it is also • Restores the resilience of hair
a social one. Indeed, hair is an object of intense elabora-
tion and preoccupation in almost all societies. Hairstyles Applications
and rituals surrounding hair care and adornment tend • Shampoos, conditioners, masks
to convey powerful messages about the beliefs, lifestyles • Styling products
and commitments of a person. Therefore, our hair is • Color protection products
­regularly subjected to weathering. • Heat protection formulas

Hair weathering is the deterioration of the hair shaft from
root to tip and is the result of a range of cosmetic and
environmental factors. Cosmetic practices such as comb-
ing, brushing, straightening, perming, dyeing, etc., as
well as environmental factors such as exposure to UV
light and polluted air (significant amounts of free-radical
molecules) can induce structural damage to the F-layer
and the hair fiber. The cuticle becomes raised and porous,
which exposes the cortex to further damage. A decrease
in hair shine, color, elasticity and strength is observed,
which ultimately leads to hair damage.
In different studies measured utilizing state-of-the-art
technologies, KeraGuard revealed a capacity to protect
hair against free radicals and physical stresses. It was
also shown to protect dyed hair from color fading as well
as to repair chemically treated hair. The protective effect
of KeraGuard from urban pollution was unveiled by
quan­titative determination of carbonylated keratin and
by high resolution images.
Formulating with KeraGuard
• Recommended use level: 0.5 % – 2 %
• Incorporation: For cold processes, dissolve KeraGuard
into the aqueous phase. In hot / cold processes, add
during the cooling phase below 40 °C.
• Thermostability: Temperatures of up to 40 °C for a
short time will not affect the stability of KeraGuard.
INCI Declaration
KeraGuard (standard version):
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract (and) Propylene Glycol
(and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout ­Extract
(and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
Aqua / Water
KeraGuard pwd (powder version without preservatives,
two-fold concentrated, COSMOS approved*, NATRUE
approved version):
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract (and) Helianthus
­Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Maltodextrin
(and) Aqua / Water

* Raw material approved by ECOCERT GREENLIFE in accordance with the

COSMOS Standard December 2020
The Hair
Main structure and components
The Hair Unit
Hair is an integrated system with a peculiar chemical
and physical behavior that acts as a unit. It consists of
two distinct structures: the part beneath the skin,
which is called the follicle, and the visible hair shaft
(the part above the skin surface).
The hair shaft structure is the same for all ethnicities
and is composed of cuticle, cortex and medulla. Despite
the shape of the hair varying enormously, chemical
­analysis shows that its basic composition is invariably
keratin. Indeed, studies indicate that the shape of the
hair follicle and its position on the scalp determine
the shape and thickness of the hair.
Each healthy hair is surrounded by a protective cuticle
which is similar to the overlapping shingles on a roof,
oriented from root to tip. Inside the cuticle, the cortex of
the hair contains keratin and melanin. Keratin strength-
ens the hair while melanin provides the color to the hair.
Melanin also protects the hair shaft from sun damage
by acting as a barrier for UV radiation. The medulla is the
core of the hair and might even be absent.
Hair Cuticle and the F-Layer Structure
Hair
The cuticle is responsible for the luster and texture of
human hair. The normal cuticle is smooth, which allows
for light reflection and the limiting of friction between
the hair shafts. Generally speaking, it is formed by 6 – 8
scales for Asians, slightly less for Caucasians and even
less in African hair. A thinner cuticle layer makes the hair
more prone to breakage. In spite of the hydro­phobicity
surface of the cuticle, the hair absorbs moisture. This con-
tradictory behavior, which is known as the “hair paradox”,
is the result of the interior of the ­fiber containing hydro-
philic amino acid residues.
The F-Layer
Each cuticle cell contains a thin proteinaceous mem-
brane, the epicuticle, which is covered by an invisible,
water-resistant lipid layer that acts as a natural condi-
tioner. This outer lipid layer, which is known as the fatty
layer or F-layer, mainly consists of 18-methyleicosanoic
acid (18-MEA) and is what naturally gives human hair
its smooth and silky feel.

5 
5  18-MEA
Cuticle
Stress factors
The hair is constantly exposed to damage
Hair Weathering
Hair weathering is the progressive hair damage that
­results from external stress factors, which are basically
the ‘wear and tear’ from the environment and cosmetic
procedures that mainly affect the hair fiber:
• environmental pollutants (smog, cigarette smoke,
­radiation, etc.) generate free radicals and ROS. These
molecules oxidize and degrade the proteins and
lipids of the hair surface.
• sun exposure, wind and salt water tend to dehydrate
it. Oxygen radicals created by UVR break down the
­disulfide bonds of structural units which reduces the
­integrity of the hair fiber. Thus, the hair is prone to
breakage and to color fading.
• physical stress (such as combing, blow drying, exces-
sive heat from strengthening or curling irons) is
likely to dehydrate and degrade the proteins of the
hair ­surface.
• drastic procedures such as perming, relaxing and
bleaching cause structural and chemical damage,
and are also a source of free radicals and ROS.
• shampoos and styling products, in addition, can
­ultimately cause dehydration of the hair.
Hair Weathering: Stress Factors that Damage the Hair
Scalp
Generally speaking, daily weathering and chemical
­cosmetics procedures might damage hair by removing
the F-layer and drastically reducing the hydrophobicity
of the hair surface.
Hair Aging
The hair fibers that emerge from the scalp exhibit sig­
nificant age-related changes that have an equal impact
on the overall cosmetic properties of the hair.
The aging hair is increasingly sensitive to weathering,
with increased fiber reactivity to reducing and oxidizing
agents. Moreover, aging hair is more sensitive to UVR
and pollution, as both are ultimately a source of free
­radicals.
The adverse impact includes degradation and the loss
of hair proteins as well as degradation of hair pigment.
All of these stress factors make the hair more porous
and therefore more brittle, rough feeling as well as dull
looking. Consequently, the hair needs to be reinforced,
repaired and protected on a daily basis.
Environmental stress Water
Drastic procedures Oil
Blow-drying and oxidative stress
Shampoos and styling products
Mechanical stress
Hair fiber
KeraGuard
Powerful antioxidant and repair complex
Tara Tannins, a Powerful Antioxidant
Tannins extracted from Caesalpinia spinosa (tara) are
highly efficient and stable antioxidants. Tara is a small
­leguminous tree that is native to the Peruvian Andes
and which tolerates dry climates and poor soils (notably
sandy to rocky soils). Tara has large, colorful flowers and
fruits called pods that range from a reddish to brown
color.
Tara pods, which are used in traditional medicine to treat
infections and improve healing, are very rich in hydro-
lysable tannins with gallic acid as the main constituent.
Tannins have antimicrobial and astringent effects. In fact,
thanks to their capacity to bind to proteins, tannins are
able to inhibit the growth of fungi and bacteria by inter-
fering with their cell walls. Tara tannins are also known
as efficient antioxidants, classically as electron donators
but also as metal ion chelators.
Sunflower Sprouts
Sunflowers turn towards the sun: this not only symbolizes
homage and constancy but also power, warmth and nour-
ishment – the attributes of the sun.
Organic sunflower sprouts were selected as a source
for our active ingredient. Compared to the mature plant,
shoots have a higher content of essential fatty acids,
­vitamins and minerals, as well as a range of secondary
plant metabolites. These compounds are not required
for primary metabolic processes like growing. Their role
is to protect the plant from diseases, damage, patho-
gens, extreme UV and pollutants.
KeraGuard against the Pro-Aging Effect on Hair
KeraGuard is a combination of Tara tannins and organic
Sunflower sprout extract. Tara tannins are potent anti­
oxidants and free radical scavengers that are able to bind
the protein structure and shield the hair. Their combi­
nation with organic sunflower sprout extract results in a
powerful fusion that is capable of neutralizing the harm-
ful effects of free radicals that come from the environ-
ment (e.g. pollution, the sun etc.) and repair the hair fol-
lowing chemical treatments. The various nutrients
present in KeraGuard help to encourage healthy as well
as lustrous hair.
KeraGuard
Study results

Antioxidant Power Compared to that of Antioxidant Protection Effect on Hair

­Vitamin C
The antioxidant power (AP) of KeraGuard was
determined by evaluating its capacity to reduce DPPH
(diphenyl-picryl-hydrazyl), which is a stable and well-
known radical, by using Electron Spin Resonance (ESR)
spectroscopy. This technique is used to detect unpaired
electrons in radicals. The AP indicates the quantity of
free radicals that are neutralized according to time and
therefore this value provides information about both
the intensity of the reaction and its speed. A high AP
corresponds to a strong capacity to neutralize free radi-
cals correlated to a short reaction time.
The AP of KeraGuard (dry matter) was benchmarked
against pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and compared to
known values of other substances in their pure form,
such as green tea.
As shown in the graph below, KeraGuard has a high
AP, which indicates that it neutralizes antioxidants and
free radicals both in a robust and quick manner. It is
therefore an effective and efficient antioxidant. Further-
more, KeraGuard was shown to be almost as active as
vitamin C and much more efficient than green tea.
Analysis of the radical scavenging properties of
KeraGuard was assessed by the Radical Hair
Protection method (RHP). RHP is based on the measure-
ment of the Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) spectrum
of melanin in the human hair. Brown and black hair pos-
sess a defined and stable melanin signal (Melanin I).
UV irradiation of the hair generates free radicals that are
scavenged by the melanin polymer and this leads to
a re-organization of its electron structure. This new struc-
ture emits a different melanin signal (Melanin II). The
­increase of Melanin II signal is directly proportional to
the UV dose; in other words, to the oxidative damage
on the hair.
Natural brown-auburn human Caucasian hair was incu-
bated in water (placebo) or in 0.5 % and 2 % KeraGuard
diluted in H2O for 10 minutes, and this was followed
by two washes in deionized water or left unwashed.
­Melanin signal intensity was measured by ESR before
and ­after 5 minutes of UV radiation. The intensity follow-
ing irradiation was normalized to the intensity before
­irradiation (= relative Melanin increase).
Results showed that KeraGuard significantly increased the
hair protection against UV stress in a dose dependent
manner. KeraGuard also exerts its antioxidant protection
power after being washed off.

Antioxidant Power Close to that of Vitamin C Antioxidant Protection

Without washing Withon Hair step
washing

1 25
Without washing With washing step *
in % in %

1 25
to

0.8 20
H2O treatment

*
compared
Power Power

to

0.8 20 *
treatment
compared
Antioxidative

0.6 15
hair protection

*
and
Antioxidative

0.6 15
and H2O

0.4 10
hair protection
initial conditions
RelativeRelative

0.4 10
RadicalRadical
initial conditions

0.2 5

0.2 5
0 0
Vitamin C Green tea KeraGuard 0.5 % KeraGuard 2 % KeraGuard
0 0
*p<0.05 versus treatment with H2O
Vitamin C Green tea KeraGuard 0.5 % KeraGuard 2 % KeraGuard

S-605 / © Mibelle Biochemistry

*p<0.05 versus treatment with H2O S-706 / © Mibelle Biochemistry

S-605 / © Mibelle Biochemistry S-706 / © Mibelle Biochemistry

KeraGuard
Study results

Repair of Bleached Hair Hair Color Protection against Consecutive

The repair action of KeraGuard on bleached Washing and UV Exposure
hair was analyzed by copper – amino acid Hair tresses of dark brown Caucasian human
­complexes formed in human hair and measured using hair were bleached, rinsed and then dyed with a
electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy. ­commercial red hair dye. The baseline color was then
determined.
Bleaching raises the outer cuticle of the hair, which allows A simulation of two weeks of product application (three
the bleaching agent to penetrate and remove color by product applications per week) and washing was per-
oxidation. During such chemical treatments the bond be- formed. The test products were a hair serum (placebo)
tween the F-layer and the keratin cysteine gets severed: and the hair serum which contained 0.5 % KeraGuard.
the disulfide-bonds (-S-S-) are disrupted and the resulting Chromameter measurements for hair lightness L* were
–SH groups are available for under­going complex forma- carried out five times per hair tress.
tion with bivalent ions. Cu(II) ions are able to complex
with free -SH groups and this is measurable via ESR. The Following this, twelve product applications were per-
higher the damage of the F-layer of the hair, the more formed and intercalated by UV exposure cycles, which
free SH groups are available to complex with copper. simulated fifteen days of intense sun exposure (108
hours). Finally, the hair lightness L* was determined by
Natural brown Caucasian human hair and bleached hair Chromameter (five times per hair tress).
were used for the measurements. The hair was cut in
small pieces and incubated with 0.5 % and 1 % KeraGuard Results showed a significant hair color protection with
(in water) for 10 minutes, washed with water and then 0.5 % KeraGuard compared to the placebo, following
­incubated with a solution of CuSO4 for 10 minutes and the washing procedure as well as after washing and UV
washed again in water. The spectrum was registered in irradiation.
order to detect at that moment the copper absorbance.

KeraGuard showed a significant repair action against the

damage of the F-layer by hair bleaching.

Restoration Effect of Bleached Hair Color Protection

Placebo 0.5 % Effect
KeraGuard

4.2 20
Placebo 0.5 % KeraGuard
(=1) (=1)

to

4.2 20
in % in %
fading compared

4 *
hair control

15
after bleaching

to
and untreated

*
color compared

4
3.8 * *
hair control

15
after bleaching

10
and untreated
to unbleached

* *
3.8
3.6
*
fromfading

10
Hair damage

initial conditions
to unbleached

5
3.6
3.4 *
from color
Hair damage

initial conditions

5
normalized

Protection

3.4 0
3.2
normalized

Protection

0
3.2
3 -5
H 2O 0.5 % KeraGuard 1 % KeraGuard
Washing Washing + UV
3 -5
*p<0.05 versus H2O treatment *p<0.001 versus placebo
H 2O 0.5 % KeraGuard 1 % KeraGuard
Washing Washing + UV
*p<0.05 versus H2O treatment S-705 / © Mibelle Biochemistry *p<0.001 versus placebo S-677/ © Mibelle Biochemistry

S-705 / © Mibelle Biochemistry S-677/ © Mibelle Biochemistry

 Protection of the Hair from Heat Damage
Hair tresses of natural dark brown human hair
were washed with a shampoo (an aqueous
solution of SLES 12 %). Hair fibers were then rinsed with
tap water for 30 seconds, with a constant water flow,
in order to completely remove the SLES.
The test products were then applied:
• a hair serum (placebo)
• a hair serum containing 0.5 % KeraGuard.
Hair fibers were dipped in the test products for a period
of 5 seconds then massaged manually for 30 seconds
in order to spread the product homogeneously. All hair
tresses were rinsed with tap water with a constant water
flow. The baseline was determined after two cycles of
washing and test products application.
Thereafter, the hair fibers were submitted to eight cycles
of heat damage induced with a flat iron (Rowenta® for
Elite model Look) at 200 ºC for 1 minute and 30 seconds
intercalated with the application of the test products
and the corresponding washing step.
Heat Protection Effect
Before After heat damage
Placebo
0.5 % KeraGuard
 S-721 / © Mibelle Biochemistry
The degree of hair damage was evaluated by Scanning
Electron Microscopy (FEI Quanta 400 FEG_ESEM / EDAX
Pegasus X4M) at the baseline and after eight cycles of
heat damage.
Results showed that 0.5 % KeraGuard effectively protects
the hair cuticle from the heat damage in comparison
to the placebo. The high resolution images showed a
significant change on the hair surface before and after
heating and in the presence or not of KeraGuard:
• after heating the cuticle scales of the hair treated with
the placebo were lifted up and in some areas it was
even observed its disintegration. The hair started to
fray and jagged edges appeared.
• KeraGuard, instead, protected the hair cuticle from
jagging. After heating, the cuticle scales lied flatter
on the hair tresses treated with 0.5 % KeraGuard than
on those treated with the placebo.
KeraGuard
Study results

Protection Against the Damaging Effects

of Pollution
Predominantly known for its damaging effects Strands of natural Caucasian hair were incubated for
on our skin, the consequences of rising pollution levels 1 hour prior to stress application in 0.5 % KeraGuard in
are also significantly impacting the short and long-term H2O followed by rinsing or 0.5 % KeraGuard without
health of our hair. Air pollution is directly in contact with ­rinsing. H2O served as a control (with and without stress).
our hair and contributes to damage it on a daily ­basis. Pollution stress consisted of 15 minutes incubation with
The main sources are industrial combustion (diesel ex- a particulate matter solution (Particulate Matter HAP
haust fumes and coal), traffic and construction works. Air from European Reference Material CZ100). Afterwards,
pollution consists of gases and very fine particles, which the hair strands were irradiated with UV-A (LED, 365 nm)
are called particulate matter (PM). PM, in combination for 6 hours.
with exposure to UV light, cause oxidization ­reactions
within the hair protein, which lead to damage and fragil-
ity of the hair. Thus, carbonylation of the hair keratin can
be used as a marker for oxidative damage caused by
pollution and UV light.

Protective Effect of KeraGuard against Urban Pollution

Control 0.5 % KeraGuard 0.5 % KeraGuard + rinsing

6
Corbonyl score (oxidation level)
relative to control (=1)

* *

Before After pollution stress + UV

*p<0.001 versus control after pollution stress + UV

S-758 / © Mibelle Biochemistry

 Different analyses were performed:
• Carbonylated proteins from the hair strands were
­labeled, extracted and quantified by high-resolution
electrophoresis.
• In situ labeling of the carbonylated proteins on hair
strands with specific red fluorescent probes. The hair
images were collected by epi-fluorescence micros-
copy (Leica DMi8)
• Scanning electron microscopy of the hair strands
(Zeiss Gemini SEM 500 microscope).
Protective Effect of KeraGuard against Urban Pollution
Control Pollution stress
Carbonylated proteins
Pollution damage
Results showed a significant reduction of carbonylated
proteins in hair strands treated with 0.5 % KeraGuard,
even when rinsed off.
This result was confirmed by the in situ labeling of
the carbonyls which allows the visualization of the hair
­keratin oxidation: red-labeled damaged proteins were
less in the presence of KeraGuard. In plus, the scanning
­electron microscopy images showed less par­tic­ulate
­matter deposition and hair surface damage when using
0.5 % KeraGuard, even when rinsed off.
Therefore, KeraGuard effectively protects the hair against
urban pollution.
Pollution stress Pollution stress
+ 0.5 % KeraGuard + 0.5 % KeraGuard, rinsed
 S-758 / © Mibelle Biochemistry
 KeraGuard
Powerful protection
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs  /  Switzerland, Phone + 41  62 836 17 31, info@mibellebiochemistry.com, www.mibellebiochemistry.com

and repair for hair

KeraGuard
• Protects hair against heat, urban pollution and UV stress
• Repairs chemically treated hair
• Prevents the color fading of hair
• Restores resilience of the hair

Applications
• Shampoos, conditioners, masks
• Styling products
• Color protection products
• Heat protection formulas

Marketing Benefits
• Extremely powerful natural antioxidant complex
• Performs effectively in leave-on and rinse-off formulations
• Available in a version without preservatives
• Available in a COSMOS approved version
• Available in a NATRUE approved version

Innovating for your success

Mibelle Biochemistry designs and develops innovative, high-quality actives based on
naturally derived compounds and profound scientific know-how. Inspired by nature –
Realized by science.

The information contained in this publication is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge.
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statements are offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification and do not relieve you from
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erty rights. Mibelle AG Biochemistry will not assume any expressed or implied liability in connection with any use
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