Grade 10 Modules

T.L.E (Needle Craft)

Melcs;
 Combine stitching techniques in embroidery, Calado and smocking to create a well-made
project.

CALADO AND SMOCKING

Calado Embroidery – is a traditional style of whitework embroidery from the
Philippines. Calado (piercing) is a mehod of decorating a textile by pulling out
threads from certain areas, reinforcing other areas and sewing them together to
make intricate lacy design. The most ideal fabric to use in making Caldo are Linen
and Piña cloth

Stitches for Calado Embroidery

1. Running Stitch – This is the most basic stitch. Be careful that all the
stitches and gaps are of equal length. Bring needle up at 1
down
at 2. Pick up several stitches on needle before pulling it throug.
A variation of this stitch is to work a thread of a different color
in
between the stitches. Be careful not to pull the thread too tight.

2. Back Stitch – Bring the needle up and down through 2, completing the
first stitch. Then bring the needle through at 3 and carry it
back down again at 1 to complete the second stitch. Distance
between 3-1 and 1-2 should be equal. Repeat sequence for next
stitch, needle entering at 2 should go into hole made by thread
emerging at 2 should go into hole made by thread emerging
from point 1 of previous stitch. Be careful that all stitches should
be even. It can be threaded in a similar way to running stitch. To
work single-threaded line, use a blunt needle to lace the yarn
under each stitch.

3. Stem Stitch – Bring the needle out at 1., insert at 2 and exit a half
stitch back at 3. Distance 1-3 and 3-2 should be equal .
Note the
point of 3 of previous stitch is now 1 and the needle emerging at
3 is coming from hole made by thread entering at point 2 of
previous stitch.

4. Satin Stitch – It is one of the most important embroidery stitches. It is

 used for filling in areas. It appears simple, but it takes some
practice to get the coverage absolutely even. The direction in
which these stitches lie is very important. Look carefully at the
design before you begin stitching as the direction you choose
will influence the way the light reflects of the area and the look of
the filled space.

5. Blanket Stitch – This is also called the buttonhole stitch and is frequently
used to protect the fabric at the edges of the blanket or
round
button holes. To make blanket stitch you will work from left to
right. Bring the needle out at 1 on bottom line. Insert at 2 on top
line and slightly n the right then exit at 3, directly below. Before
pulling needle through, carry yarn under point of needle.
Proceed to the next stitch. Point 3 of previous stitch is now point
1. Work entire row in the same way, keeping height of stitches
even throughout.

6. Fly Stitch - It is also known as open loop. It can be worked individually or

paced in groups and rows to give different effects. Bring the
needle up at 1. Insert at 2 directly across, then angle needle out
at 3. Points 1, 2 and 3 should be in an equal distant. Carry the
thread under the needle point and pull through. Complete stitch
by inserting at 4 over loop.

7. Chain Stitch – It is one of the most popular embroidery stitches for

outlining or for filling an area. Bring the needle out at 1. Insert
back at the same hole at point 1 and bring out at 2 carrying
thread under needlepoint, then pull it through. Point 2 is now
point 1 of next stitch. Work all stitches the same way, always
inserting needle into the hole made by emerging thread. To end
row take a small stitch over last chain loop to hold it down.

8. Lazy Daisy Stitch – A variant of chain stitches, it is useful for

making small flower petals. It is made by forming a loop in the
usual way. Bring needle out at 1. Insert back into same hole at
point 1; and exit at 2; carry thread under needle point then pull
through. Insert needle at 3 over chain loop and then bring
needle out at point 1 for the next chain stitch. Continue the
way until all petals are complete.

9. Van Dyke Stitch – It is a stitch used for leaf design. As the stitch is formed,
a thin braided line is formed at the center to represent the
central vein of the leaf. The first 4 steps in the following series
start the design. The fifth and sixth steps are repeated in
 sequence thereafter.

10. French Knot – These small knots appear like beads. They can be used
as filling for the center of a flower. This is how it is done. Bring
needle to the right side of the material at the point where the
knot is to be made. (A) Hold the thread family between the left
thumb and first (index) finger quite closed to the fabric. Twist the
thread around the needle pulling it taut. Turn the needle in the
opposite direction and insert it closed to the point where the
thread emerged. Pull the needle through the coils of thread on
the wrong side of the work.

SMOCKING
Smocking – is another form of embroidery; it consists of fancy gathering or
honeycomb ornamentation on garment . The stitches used are back stitch and
a variation of chevron, herringbone, whipped running and chain stitches. It is
best used as ornamental gathering in ladies’ and children’ dresses. It is also
applicable in home interior decoration such as curtains, lampshades and
cushions. Smocking is an English word for shirt or chemise.
Types of Smocking
1. English Smocking – The material of the cloth is gathered first before the
pleats before applying by desired stitches.
2. Regular Smocking – The gatherings are formed as the embroidery stitches
are applied.
Tools and Materials in Smocking
1. Fabric or Cloth – This should be firm, light, and even weave.
Example : cotton, checkered cloth, poplin
2. Needle – A needle with a sharp point and a big eye to handle several
strands of thread.
3. Thread – depending on a fabric used, it may be double to seven strands.

Embroidery Stitches in Smocking

1. Cable Smocking – The thread should pass above and below the grid alternately,
gathering in the fold of the fabric stitch.
1. Cable Smocking Variation A
The stitches are horizontally done. The top and bottom stitches are
doubled. Turn the Fabric to start a new row.
2. Cable Smocking Variation B
Do the first row horizontally and every row alternately. Follow the
diamond pattern and take up two pleats in one stitch.
3. Cable Smocking Variation C
Use the cable stitch and wave smocking
2. Chevron Smocking –
1. Chevron Smocking Variation A
It is better to use checkered or dotted fabric; no grid is needed
2. Chevron Smocking Variation B
 It is done diagonally on a checkered fabric.
3. Chain Smocking
It is used on the neckline and the wrists of the article. This stitch does not
stretch
4. Honeycomb or Seed Smocking
The thread passes between two gathers on the wrong side of the fabric. Only
short stitches are visible.
5. Outline Smocking
Start on the wrong side and pull the needle on the right side A. Take B to C to
the following gather, then stitch from left to right

What I Have Learned

Activity 2.2
A. Identification
Direction : Identify what is being described below. Choose your answer from
the box and write it on your test notebook.

1. Lazy Daisy Split Stitch Satin Stitch Van Dyke A

Back Stitch Cross Stitch Running Stitch Seed Stitch
French Knot Fly Stitch Blanket Chain Stitch

kind of stitch that crosses the thread from A to C and from C to D.

2. It is composed of flowers in order to form this kind of stitch.
3. An easiest kind of stitch that produces a stitch that is equal in length both on
the wrong side and right side of the fabric.
4. You will be spending as much thread on the reverse side as you do on actual side
of the fabric.
5. It is composed of rows of short running stitches to fully fill the strawberry pattern.
6. A kind of stitch used for leaf designs.
7. It is also known as Open Loop that can be worked individually or in groups.
8. It is also called the buttonhole stitch and is used frequently to protect fabric at the
edges of blanket or round button holes,
9. A kind of stitch that is used to outline a design.
10. A stitch that appear like beads which are used for filling the center of the flower.

B. Classification
Direction :Classify the following stitches either Embroidery, Calado and
Smocking. Write your answer on your Answer Sheet.

1. Van Dyke
2. Satin
 3. Chevron
4. Blanket
5. Seed
6. Fly
7. Honeycomb
8. Fish Bone
9. Cable
10. Cross

Reference: Deped Commons