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COMPETITIVENESS OF TURKISH TEXTILE AND

CLOTHING SECTOR AND CHINA THREAT IN THE
PROCESS OF THE LIBERALIZATION OF INTERNATIONAL
TRADE

Abstract
The textile and clothing sector which is the oldest industry of the world,
takes important roles in the process of economic development, especially in
developing countries by reason of both value added that is provided in the process
of production and the sector’s high rate in the export revenues. The sector operating
in variable market conditions is one of the most global sectors in the world. Parallel
to this, today, it is possible to say that the textile and clothing firms are in an intense
competition. In this regard, the terms as competition and competitiveness which are
continuously discussed in the international economics literature, become more
important.
The basic aim of this study is to determine the position of Turkish Textile
Sector in the global competitive environment. For this purpose, initially, the textile
and clothing industry in Turkey is introduced and the regulations related to sector
and their effects on the sector are explained. Subsequently, in the research part of
this study, Turkish textile and clothing industry’s international competitiveness
between 1998-2008 is analyzed with using Balassa's Revealed Comparative
Advantage Index and Vollrath's three alternative measures of revealed comparative
advantage and the threat of China on the sector after the elimination of quotas is
tried to evaluate. As a result it is determined that the sector had comparative
competitive advantage but this advantage was lost by textile sector after 1998 and
by clothing sector after 2005. In this context the necessities to survive the sector is
emphasized.
Key Words: International Competitiveness, China Threat, Revealed
Comparative Advantage
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1
Zindikilani J. Daka, Linkages Between Trade Development And Poverty Reduction,
$GYRFDF\:RUNVKRS5HSRUW2UJDQÕVHG%\2'&07DQG&876-ARC, 25 June 2008, s.11

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8
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7UNL\H.DONÕQPD%DQNDVÕ$ù,Ankara, 2008, s. 5
9
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261, Eylül 2001, s.15
10
2÷X] .oN\DYX] Gömlek Üretimi Tesisi Sanayi Profili 6DQD\L 9H 7LFDUHW %DNDQOÕ÷Õ
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11
http://www.tuik.gov.tr/ulusalhesapapp/ulusalhesap.zul?tur=, (06.05.2010)

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Gothard Artelt, “Dünya’da ve Türkiye’de Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Sanayinde Teknolojik
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7HNVWLOYH.RQIHNVL\RQøKUDFDWoÕ%LUOLNOHULøVWDQEXOV
13
WTO, International Trade Statstics 2009 Report, s: 102-103,
http://www.wto.org/english/res_e/statis_ e/its2009_e/its2009_e.pdf, (02.05.2010)
14
András Inotai and Harald Sander, World Trade After the Uruguay Round: Prospects
and Policy Options for the Twenty First Century, New York: Routledge, 1996, s.37

232
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0)$ *$77 LoLQGH \DSÕOPÕú WHNVWLO VHNW|UQH |]J ELU DQODúPDGÕU YH
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RUWDGDQ NDOGÕUPDNWDGÕU 0)$ oHUoHYHVLQGH JHWLULOHQ NÕVÕWODPDODU, ONHOHU DUDVÕ

15
Binhan O÷X] 8OXVODUDUDVÕ 7LFDUHWWH .RUXPDFÕOÕ÷ÕQ .DOGÕUÕOPDVÕQÕQ øo YH 'Õú
Piyasalarda Türkiye Ekonomisine Muhtemel Etkileri, øVWDQEXO 7LFDUHW 2GDVÕ <D\ÕQÕ
<D\ÕQ1R-øVWDQEXOV
16
1ÕVIHW8]D\³'H÷LúHQ'Q\D.RúXOODUÕQGD7UNL\H¶GH7HNVWLOYH +D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|UQQ
*HOHFH÷L´øNWLVDWøúOHWPHYH)LQDQV, s.229, Mart 2005, s.64
17
=L\D $OWXQ\DOGÕ] ³7HNVWLO YH +D]ÕU *L\LP 6HNW|UQGH =RUODVDQ 8OXVODUDUDVÕ 5HNDEHW YH
Çin Tehdidi”, ø*(0(
GHQ%DNÕú<ÕO2FDN-1LVDQ6D\Õ, s.18
18
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serbest ticaretin ve rekabetçi ortDPÕQ JHOLúPHVLQL HQJHOOHGL÷L YH ülkelerin

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]D\ÕIODWPDNWDGÕU. Bu nedenle MFA, GATT prensiplerinden en sert ve maliyetli
sapma olarak nitelendirilebilmektedir. 19
Öte yandan MFA’ya taraf bir ülke olarak Türkiye de ABD, Kanada ve
özellikle AB ONHOHULQLQ ELUWDNÕP NRWD |QOHPOHULQH PDUX] NDOPÕúWÕU 7UN SDPXN
LSOL÷Lnin, ¶OL \ÕOODUÕQ EDúÕQGD $YUXSD SL\DVDODUÕQÕ LVWLOD HWPHVL YH $YUXSDOÕ
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\NVHN ROPDVÕQD NDUúÕQ VRQUDODUÕ GúPH\H EDúODPÕú YH 7UN WHNVWLO LKUDFDWoÕODUÕQÕ
ROGXNoD ]RU GXUXPGD EÕUDNPÕúWÕU $QFDN $%  \ÕOÕQD NDGDU NRWD DUWÕúÕ
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*L\LP$QODúPDVÕ$7&
Uruguay Round Ticaret Müzakereleri sonucunda imzalanan ve 1 Ocak
¶GH \UUO÷H JLUHQ 'Q\D 7LFDUHW gUJW $QODúPDVÕ NDSVDPÕQGD EXOXQDQ
TekVWLOYH*L\LP $QODúPDVÕAgreement on Textiles and Clothing-ATC) ile tekstil
YH KD]ÕU JL\LP WLFDUHWL *$77 NDSVDPÕQD DOÕQPÕúWÕU 20. ATC’nin \UUO÷H JLUPHVL
LOH ELUOLNWH 0)$¶ \D GD\DOÕ RODUDN JHWLULOHQ PLNWDU NÕVÕWODPDODUÕQÕQ  \ÕOÕQGDQ
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GúQOPúWU. 21
$7&¶QLQ LP]DODQPDVÕ\OD birlikte Türkiye gibi, ATC öncesi AB
SL\DVDODUÕQDPLNWDUNÕVÕWODPDODUÕQDWDELROPDNVÕ]ÕQJLUHELOHQONHOHULQNRWDVÕ]WLFDUHW
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beklentilere paralel olarak Çin, '7g \HOL÷LQLQ EDúODPDVÕ\OD ELUOLNWH pazar SD\ÕQÕ

19
Rodrik Dani, “Developing Countries After The Uruguay Round”, International Monetary
and Financial Issues for the 1990’s, Vol. VI, United Nations Publication, New York, 1995,
s.46
20
g]JH $\QDJ|] dDNPDN ³$oÕNODQPÕú .DUúÕODúWÕUPDOÕ hVWQONOHU YH 5HNDEHW *F
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Dergisi, Cilt: 5, 6D\Õ-2, 2005, s.66
21
1HúH.DQR÷OXYH(PUDKgQJWDünyada ve Türkiye’de Tekstil-+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|UOHUL
ve Türkiye’nin Rekabet Gücü, '37øNWLVDGL6HNW|UOHU9H.RRUGLQDV\RQ*HQHO0GUO÷
Ankara, Mart 2003, s.28
22
H. Kyvik Nordas, The Global Textile and Clothing Industry post the Agreement on
Textiles and Clothing, World Trade Organization Discussion Paper, 2004, s.27-28

234
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HWPLúWLU
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edememe sorununu gündeme getirmektedir 26.
Uruguay RounGVRQUDVÕ0)$NDSVDPÕQGDJHWLULOHQPLNWDUNÕVÕWODPDODUÕQÕQ
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etkilHQPHGL÷LJ|UOPHNWHGLU6HNW|U 1994, 2001 ve 2009 mali kriz dönemlerinde de
E\NGúúOHU\DúDPDPÕúWÕU
Tablo 2: 1990-<ÕOODUÕ$UDVÕ7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|U'Õú7LFDUHW
Hacmi (ISIC 5HYL]H6ÕQÕIODPDVÕQD*|UH- milyon dolar)
<ÕOODU øKUDFDW øWKDODW 1HWøKUDFDW
1990 4.659 457 4.202
1991 4.759 448 4.311
1992 5.645 594 5.051
1993 5.808 903 4.905
1994 6.619 1.024 5.595
1995 8.476 1.664 6.813
1996 8.648 2.074 6.574
1997 9.892 2.313 7.579
1998 10.510 2.253 8.257
1999 9.828 1.831 7.996
2000 10.031 2.119 7.912
2001 10.341 1.960 8.381
2002 12.148 2.846 9.302

23
Thomas Rumbaugh and Nicolas Blancher, China: International Trade and WTO
Accession, IMF Working Paper, WP/04/36, March 2004, s.11
24
Peter Drysdale and Ligang Song, China's Entry to the WTO: Strategic Issues and
Quantitative Assessments, London: Routledge, 2000, p.175.
25
+HUZLJ 0 6WURO] ³.RWD 6RQUDVÕ '|QHPGH 7HNVWLOGH 5HNDEHW *F <HQL 'XUXP
'H÷HUOHQGLUPHVL´7HNVWLOøúYHUHQ'HUJLVL, Haziran, 2005, s.2
26
0HVXW dDNÕU YH 6HQD (UGHQ ³$\GÕQ øOL 7HNVWLO øúOHWPHOHULQLQ *HQHO <DSÕVÕQÕQ
øQFHOHQPHVL´  7UNL\H (NRQRPHWUL YH øVWDWLVWLN .RQJUHVL 24- 0D\ÕV – øQ|Q
Üniversitesi, Malatya, 2007 s.16

235
Yener YÜCEL

2003 14.995 3.544 11.451

2004 17.338 4.388 12.950
2005 18.667 4.668 13.999
2006 19.441 5.189 14.252
2007 22.599 6.664 15.925
2008 22.827 6.996 15.831
2009 19.162 6.110 13.052
Kaynak: 7hø.YHULWDEDQÕQGDQDOÕQDQYHULOHUOHROXúWXUXOPXúWXU
gWH \DQGDQ dLQ¶LQ 7UN WHNVWLO YH KD]ÕU JL\LP VHNW|UQH WHKGLW ROXS
ROPDGÕ÷Õ- \ÕOODUÕDUDVÕGÕúWLFDUHWJHUoHNOHúPHOHULLOHLQFHOHQPLúWLU7UN
Tekstil Sektörünün 1990-GÕúWLFDUHWGH÷HUOHUL AB ve Kuzey Amerika ile olan
Tablo 3’de, Çin ile RODQLVH7DEOR¶GHYHULOLúWLU
7DEOR ¶GHNL YHULOHU LQFHOHQGL÷LQGH .X]H\ $PHULND LOH RODQ GÕú
WLFDUHWLPL]LQ PLNWDU NÕVÕWODPDODUÕQÕQ NDOGÕUÕOPDVÕQÕQ SODQODQGÕ÷Õ  \ÕOÕQD NDGDU
VUHNOLDUWDUDNDUWÕ÷ÕDQFDN\ÕOÕQGDQLWLEDUHQGúúHJHoWL÷LJ|UOPHNWedir. Her
QHNDGDU\ÕOÕLWLEDULLOHGÕúWLFDUHWKDFPLGúúHJHoPLúVHGHLWKDODWPDOL
NUL]LQLQ HWNLOHULQLQ J|UOPH\H EDúODQGÕ÷Õ  \ÕOÕQD NDGDU DUWÕúÕQD GHYDP
HWWLUPLúWLU $QFDN .X]H\ $PHULND hONHOHUL LOH RODQ LKUDFDWÕPÕ]GDNL GúúQ
LWKDODWÕPÕ]DQD]DUDQGDKD\NVHNROPDVÕND\JÕYHULFLGLU $\UÕFD7DEOR¶GHQ$%
hONHOHUL LOH RODQ WHNVWLO YH KD]ÕU JL\LP GÕú WLFDUHW YHULOHUL LQFHOHQGL÷LQGH JHUHN
LKUDFDW JHUHNVH QHW LKUDFDW SHUIRUPDQVÕQÕQ VUHNOL DUWÕú KDOLQGH ROGX÷X
görülmektedir.
Tablo 3: 1990-<ÕOODUÕ$UDVÕ7UNL\H-AB 15 ve Kuzey Amerika Ülkeleri
7HNVWLO6HNW|U'Õú7LFDUHW+DFPL,6,&5HYL]H’e Göre- milyon dolar)

<ÕOODU AB 15 Ülkeleri Kuzey Amerika Ülkeleri

øKUDFDW øWKDODW 1HWøKUDFDW øKUDFDW øWKDODW 1HWøKUDFDW
1990 3.624 198 3.426 357 125 232
1991 3.793 191 3.602 307 86 221
1992 4.355 273 4.082 399 79 320
1993 4.215 328 3.887 481 76 405
1994 3.344 328 3.016 726 56 670
1995 5.498 541 4.958 793 173 620
1996 5.724 1.037 4.687 763 121 642
1997 5.963 1.194 4.768 880 310 570
1998 6.526 1.123 5.403 1.037 340 697
1999 6.411 949 5.462 1.162 142 1.021
2000 6.493 1.017 5.476 1.470 316 1.154
2001 6.731 968 5.762 1.415 276 1.139
2002 7.658 1.235 6.423 1.681 331 1.350
2003 9.601 1.399 8.202 1.745 450 1.295
2004 10.905 1.528 9.377 1.801 543 1.258
2005 11.716 1.486 10.229 1.593 603 990
2006 12.196 1.564 10.631 1.337 581 756
2007 14.106 1.735 12.371 1.185 904 281
2008 13.699 1.728 11.971 945 714 231
2009 11.778 1.270 10.508 600 587 13
Kaynak: 7hø.YHULWDEDQÕQGDQDOÕQDQYHULOHUOHROXúWXUXOPXúWXU
'L÷HUWDUDIWDQ7UNL\H¶QLQdLQLOHRODQWHNVWLOYHKD]ÕUJL\LPVHNW|U-
\ÕOODUÕDUDVÕGÕúWLFDUHWYHULOHULLQFHOHQGL÷LQGH, EXVHNW|UGHdLQ¶HNDUúÕJLGHUHN
DUWDQ GÕú WLFDUHW DoÕ÷Õ YHUGL÷LPL] DQODúÕOPDNWDGÕU g\OH NL LKUDFDW GH÷HUOHULQLQ oRN
GúN ROPDVÕ QHGHQL\OH LWKDODW LOH QHW LKUDFDW E\NONOHUL QHUHGH\VH HúGH÷HU
oÕNPDNWDGÕU7DEOR¶GHsektörün YH\ÕOODUÕDUDVÕQGDG]HQOLELUGÕúWLFDUHW

236
SHUIRUPDQVÕ VHUJLOHGL÷L YH PLNWDU NÕVÕWODPDODUÕQÕQ NDOGÕUÕOPDVÕQGDQ SHN ID]OD
HWNLOHQPHGL÷LJ|UOPHNWHGLU
Tablo 4: 1990-<ÕOODUÕ$UDVÕ7UNL\H– dLQ7HNVWLO6HNW|U'Õú7LFDUHW
+DFPL,6,&5HYL]H6ÕQÕIODPDVÕQD*|UH- $%''RODUÕ
<ÕOODU øKUDFDW øWKDODW Net ihracat
1990 2.081.384 25.309.640 -23.228.256
1991 977.979 28.406.620 -27.428.641
1992 270.840 35.640.965 -35.370.125
1993 108.398 74.258.986 -74.150.588
1994 3.373.081 109.550.833 -106.177.752
1995 966.456 254.673.544 -253.707.088
1996 1.518.843 153.096.401 -151.577.558
1997 1.368.919 168.448.096 -167.079.177
1998 976.858 168.340.640 -167.363.782
1999 3.002.000 165.480.075 -162.478.075
2000 5.203.648 224.020.333 -218.816.685
2001 5.791.421 170.483.818 -164.692.397
2002 8.541.846 227.607.137 -219.065.291
2003 11.020.099 391.698.116 -380.678.017
2004 15.838.391 596.288.485 -580.450.094
2005 19.108.276 756.838.394 -737.730.118
2006 31.557.481 929.306.964 -897.749.483
2007 45.868.742 1.234.812.778 -1.188.944.036
2008 57.141.796 1.319.641.814 -1.262.500.018
2009 68.371.753 1.327.635.676 -1.259.263.923
Kaynak: 7hø.YHULWDEDQÕQGDQDOÕQDQYHULOHUOHROXúWXUXOPXúWXU
$QFDN VDGHFH LKUDFDW YH LWKDODW UDNDPODUÕQGDNL GH÷LúPHOHUOH GÕú WLFDUHWWH
UHNDEHW HGLOHELOLUOL÷L DoÕNODPDN \DQOÕú RODFDNWÕU 6HNW|UQ UHNDEHW JF DQDOL]L
oDOÕúPDQÕQX\JXODPDE|OPQGHDoÕNODQPÕúNDUúÕODúWÕUPDOՁVWQONOHU\DNODúÕPÕLOH
incelenecektir. %X\DNODúÕPGDELUVHNW|UYH\DONHQLQELUVHNW|UYH\DONH\HNDUúÕ
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PPNQRODFD÷ÕJ|VWHULOPHNWHGLU
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7UNL\HYHdLQ¶LQ7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|U'Õú7LFDUHW+DFPLQLQVRQ2003-
2009 \ÕOODUÕ DUDVÕYHULOHULLQFHOHQGL÷LQGe, dLQ¶LQ7UNL\H¶QLQ7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP
Sektörü ihrDFDWÕQGDNLSD\Õ7 LOHDUDVÕQGDGH÷LúLUNHQLWKDODWLoLQGHNLSD\Õ
ise %11,6 LOH  DUDVÕQGD GH÷LúPHNWHGLU $\QÕ ]DPDQGD dLQ¶ LQ 7UNL\H¶QLQ
7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|ULKUDFDWÕQGDNLDUWÕúÕQLoLQGHNLSD\ÕLOH%4,91
DUDVÕQGD GH÷LúLUNHQ LWKDODWWDNL DUWÕú LoLQGHNL SD\Õ LVH 0,94 LOH  DUDVÕQGD
GH÷LúPHNWHGLU

237
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Tablo 5: 2003-<ÕOODUÕ$UDVÕ7UNL\H7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP Sektörü

7RSODP'Õú7LFDUHWLLOH7UNL\H– dLQ7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|U'Õú
7LFDUHWLQLQ.DUúÕODúWÕUÕOPDVÕ,6,&5HYL]H6ÕQÕIODPDVÕ-milyon dolar)
<ÕOODU 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009
Türk øKUDFDW 14.995 17.338 18.667 19.441 22.599 22.827 19.162
Tekstil ve
+D]ÕU øKUDFDW$UWÕúÕ 2.847 2.343 1.329 774 3.158 228 -3.665
Giyim
Sektörü øWKDODW 3.544 4.388 4.668 5.189 6.664 6.996 6.110
*HQHO'Õú
Ticareti øWKDODW$UWÕúÕ 698 844 280 521 1.475 332 -886

Türkiye- øKUDFDW 11 16 19 32 46 57 68
Çin Tekstil
YH+D]ÕU øKUDFDW$UWÕúÕ 3 5 3 13 14 11 11
Giyim
Sektörü øWKDODW 392 596 757 929 1.235 1.320 1.328
'Õú
Ticareti øWKDODW$UWÕúÕ 164 204 161 172 306 85 8
Çin’in
øKUDFDWYH øKUDFDW (%) 0,07 0,09 0,10 0,16 0,20 0,24 0,35
øWKDODW
øoLQGHNL øWKDODW (%) 11,06 13,58 16,21 17,90 18,53 18,86 21,73
3D\Õ
Çin’in
øKUDFDWYH øKUDFDW (%) 0,08 0,20 0,24 1,61 0,45 4,91 -0,30
øWKDODW
$UWÕúÕQGDNL øWKDODW (%) 23,49 24,17 57,50 33,01 20,74 25,48 -0,94
3D\Õ
Kaynak: 7hø.YHULWDEDQÕQGDQDOÕQDQYHULOHUOHKHVDSODQPÕúWÕU
*|UOG÷JLELdLQ7UNL\H¶QLQ7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|ULWKDODWÕQÕQ
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YHUPHNWHQGDKD|QHPOLGLUdQNdLQ7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|UQH\|QHOLNLo
WDOHELNDUúÕODPD\DVR\XQPDNWDGÕU%XGD7HNVWLOYH+D]ÕU*L\LP6HNW|UQQLKUDFDW
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NÕVÕWODPDODUÕQÕQNDOGÕUÕOPDVÕLOHELUlikte Çin’in, 7UNL\H¶QLQGL÷HUONHOHUOHRODQGÕú
WLFDUHWLQLGH÷LOGLUHNWONHQLQNHQGLVLQLHWNLOHGL÷LJ|UOPHNWHGLU%XQHGHQOHWHNVWLO
YHKD]ÕUJL\LPUQOHULLWKDODWÕQGDdLQ¶LQVDKLSROGX÷XSD]DUSD\ÕQGDNLDUWÕúDNDUúÕ
|QOHPDOÕQPDOÕGÕU

238
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.UHVHOOHúPHQLQ GQ\D HNRQRPLVLQGH |Q SODQD oÕNWÕ÷Õ JQP]GH GÕú
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WHPHO DPDoODUÕ ROPXúWXU 27. %X DoÕGDQ XOXVODUDUDVÕ WLFDUHWWH NRWDODUÕQ NDOGÕUÕOPDVÕ
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ticaretindeki rekabet gücüne etkileri de incelenecektir.
$UDúWÕUPDQÕQ<|QWHPLYH9HUL.PHVL
øNWLVDWoÕODUD J|UH ELU ONHQLQ PDO \D GD VHNW|U ED]ÕQGDNL LKUDFDW \DSÕVÕ R
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LNWLVDWoÕODU XOXVODUDUDVÕ VHUEHVW GÕú WLFDUHWWH ND]DQDQ \D GD ND\EHGHQ ROPDGÕ÷ÕQÕ
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üstünlüklere yönelik olarak Vollrath, QLVSL LKUDFDW DYDQWDMÕ HQGHNVL 7KH Relative
Export Advantage Index – 5;$QLVSLLWKDODWDYDQWDMÕHQGHNVL7KH5HODWLYH,PSRUW

27
øOND\ 'LOEHU ³7HNVWLO YH +D]ÕU JL\LP 6DQD\Lnin Rekabet Gücü”, Yönetim ve Ekonomi,
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28
Hayriye Atik, Yenilik ve Ulusal Rekabet Gücü'HWD\<D\ÕQFÕOÕN$QNDUDV

239
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Bunlar:
- RXA = (Xij / Xit) / (Xnj / Xnt)
- RMA = (Mij / Mit) / (Mnj / Mnt)
- RTA = RXAij – RMAij
- RC = Ln (RXAij) – Ln (RMAij)
X= ihracat, i= ülke, j= mal (veya sektör), t= mallar grubu (veya sektörler)
YHQ ONHOHU JUXEXQXWHPVLO HWPHNWHGLU(QGHNVGH÷HUOHUL: RXA>1, RMA<1, RTA
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potansiyeline sahiptir 30.
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Çakmak, a.g.m., s.69
30
T. L. Vollrath, “A Theoretical Evaluation of Alternative Trade Intensity Measures of
Revealed Comparative Advantage”, Weltwirtschafliches Archiv, 127, 1991, s. 276–277

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