M10-Install Prefabricated Stairs

STRUCTURAL CONSTRUCTION WORKS
LEVEL – III
Based on October 2023 Version - II Curriculum
Module Title: Assemble and Install Prefabricated Stairs and Furnishing Products
Module code: EIS SCW3 M10 1023
Nominal duration: 60 Hours
Prepared by: Ministry of Labor and Skill
October 2023
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Introduction to the module

In construction work, Assembling and Installing Prefabricated Stairs and Furnishing
Products is essential for provides access from one floor to another in a building having more than one
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October 2023
Ministry of Labor and Skills Stairs and Furnishing Products
story. This module refers to the process of assembling and fitting pre-made stair components into a
building or structure. Prefabricated stairs are manufactured off-site and delivered to the construction
site as ready-to-install units. This method of installation offers several advantages, including time and
cost savings, as the stairs are already fabricated and can be quickly installed without the need for
extensive on-site construction. The process typically involves measuring and preparing the space
where the stairs will be installed, positioning and securing the prefabricated stair units, and
connecting them to the surrounding structure.
This module covers the units:
 Requirements for Assembling and Installing prefabricated stair

 Assembling and erecting stairs
 Fitting handrails, balustrade and finish
Learning Objective of the Module
 Identify assembling and installing prefabricated stair requirement

 Assemble and erect stairs
 Fit handrails, balustrade and finish
Unit One
Requirements for Assembling and Installing prefabricated stair
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This unit is developed to provide trainees the necessary information regarding
the following content coverage and topics:
• Introduction to prefabricated Stairs
• Work instruction
• Safety & Sign Requirements
• Tools, Equipment and Materials selection
• Calculating material quantity
• Environmental protection
This unit will also assist trainees to attain the learning outcomes stated below. Specifically, upon
Completion of this learning guide, the trainees will be able to:
• Introduce to Stairs
• Obtain ,conform work instruction
• Follow safety
• Identify and implement Sign/barricade
• Select tools and equipment
• Calculate material quantity
• Identify, obtain and prepare Materials
• Identify environmental protection
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Introduction to prefabricated Stairs
Stairs
A series of steps which provides access from one floor to another is called a stair, and the part of the
building accommodating 'the stair is known as stair case.
A stair may be constructed with steps either rising continuously or with a break in the form of landing
in between.
All the steps should be so designed and constructed that up and down movements from one floor to
another can be made with ease, comfort, quickness and safety. The stairs may be consisting of any
suitable material such us timber, bricks, stone, steel, reinforced cement concrete etc.
The provision of a stair in a building is essential for the move of inmates from one floor to another
floor or to the roof of that building.
Now a day in most modern residential and public buildings of multi-story nature, a lift system is
provided for convenience and quick movements of the users from one floor to the other.
Various materials such as bricks, stones, timber, steel, plain concrete, etc. are used for the
construction of the stairs. Sometimes, marble, mosaic or checkered finish is provided. The selection
of suitable materials for the stair construction is governed by the fund available, expected life
of the building, availability of materials, external appearance and the expected fire resisting
qualities.
The stairs should be located such that they serve the purpose for which they are provided. It needs
careful planning and consideration of all probable factors. In case of fire or any other emergency the
stairs are only means of communication. Generally, they are placed near the main entrance in the
public buildings such as offices, schools, hospitals, etc. and in the residential buildings, they are
provided in the center to provide easy access to all the dwellers and maintain privacy at the same
time.
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Primary functions of staircase
 Provide an access from one floor to another.
 Provide a safe means of travel between floors.
 Provide an easy mean of travel between floors.
 Provide a suitable means of escape in case of fire.
 Provide a mean of conveying fittings and furniture between floor levels.
1.1.1. Terminology in stair
Typical sections of a stair with its components are shown in and the common
technical terms associated with the design and construction of stairs are discussed
below.
Table 1 Name of parts of stair

1. Handrail The sill generally made out of vertical (rails) and or horizontal
elements.
2. Staircase Shaft The enclosed space, limited by the walls confining the staircase
3. Nosing The frontal part of the tread that is excluded from the plane of the
riser ;it has a decorative purpose
4. Riser Vertical surface connecting 2 treads
Observation: there can also be stairs with reads and no risers
5. Under stairs The lower part of the flight of stairs that can be seen from the
landing or a flight of stairs found on an inferior altitude
Observation: the over stair.
6. Total height Headroom The circulation space between the sheer limits of 2 superimposed
flight of stairs or a flight of stairs and a landing ,measured using
the normal on the line of walk ,from the nosing of the tread to the
plane generated by the backside of the flight of stairs or the
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landing’s beams
7. Total length The circulation space between the wall and the railing
8. Line of walk The Graphic indicator of the way to the stairs; in case of circular
or balanced staircases, it’s considered to be 50 cm from the
handrail towards the smaller arch of the curve, for flight of stairs
smaller than 1m; in axes of flights of stairs longer than 1.0 m it’s
considered to be at 60 cm
9. Tread edge The intersection between the horizontal plane and the vertical one
of the tread
10. Rail Vertical construction element (continuous or with gaps) that offers
protection to the people going up and down or pausing on the
(flight of) stairs.
11. Landing Horizontal construction element built for people to rest on when
going up/down stairs
12. Flight of stairs Flight of stairs Circulation construction element with a slope,
with /without treads
13. Staircase Construction subcomponent that serves pedestrian circulation in
between more floors, consisting in flights of stairs and eventually a
landing
14. Outer, open staircase A staircase situated outside the building, standing alone
(independent) or adjacent to the building with a maximum of 3
sides
15. Inside/Inner, open A staircase situated inside the building, in lobbies, hallways,
16. Inside, closed staircase A staircase situated inside the building specific to isolation and
fire safety codes
17. Staircase with multiple A staircase that has multiple straight flights of stairs and the
landings relative orientation of some over others occurs at particular angles
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(Most common at 180° or 90°)
18. Monumental staircase A staircase that’s designed with the purpose of achieving a
specific architectural impression and built to ensure (only if
necessary) safety evacuation
19. Main staircase A staircase that can ensure functional circulation throughout the
building
20. Curved/Helical Staircase A staircase that has curved flight of stairs either continuous or
interrupted by landings
21. Straight flights staircase Straight flights staircase a staircase that has straight flight of stairs
either continuous or interrupted by landings
22. Straight staircase A staircase that has straight flight of stairs hat are positioned one
after another, in the same direction
23. Secondary staircase A staircase for secondary circulation, passing through all floors or
at least parts of them, ensuring even safety evacuation if built to
code
24. Abrupt staircase A staircase that has treads with the width between 22.6 and 30
25. Balanced or “dancing” A staircase with one or more straight flight of stairs in which some
staircase parts of the flights are curved (the area of direction changing) or a
staircase posed of a strait flight of stairs and a curved one, with or
without landing.
26. Staircase with high risers A staircase with risers of height between 17.6 and 22.5cm
27. Staircase with low risers A staircase with risers of height lowers than 16.5cm
28. Inside, closed staircase A staircase situated inside the building specific to isolation and
fire safety codes
29. Staircase with regular A staircase with risers of height between 16.6 and 17.5
risers
30. Tread The horizontal surface, with a relatively low width, situated
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vertically on equal distance between other treads
31. Balanced treads Treads that go follow a curved path, with tread edges that
converge to centers of different radius. In a drawing plan, each
tread has a different shape.
32. The “eye” of the The free space bound by the inner parts of flight of stairs
staircase
33. Strings or Stringer The lateral or central beam going along the flight or stairs bearing
all its weight.
Rise + Tread = Step
Fig: 1.1. Parts of stair
1.1.2. Types of Stairs

1. Straight flight/straight run
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2. Quarter turn/L-shaped
3. Half turn (dog leg)/180 return
4. Spiral (helical) & elliptical
5. Winder
1. Straight flight/straight run – It rises from the floor to floor in one direction with or
without an intermediate landing. It is also known as ‗cottage stair‘. It is commonly used in the
traditional ‗two-up two-down‘cottage. The most economical use of the straight flight is to locate the
stair in the center of the plan running for front to back.
Fig.1.2. Straight flight/straight runs
2. Quarter turn/L-shaped – It rises to a landing between two floors, turns through 90˚, then rises to
the floor above. It is good in compact planning. The quarter turn sometime will be replaced with
winders for economic use of space.
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Fig.1.3. Quarter turn/L-shaped
3. Half turn (dog leg)/180 return – It rises to a landing between floors, turns through 180˚, then rises
parallel to the lower flight to the floor above. It is said to be the most common arrangement of stairs.
The main advantage of this type is, it can be constructed within the confined vertical stair well.
Fig.1.4. Half turn (dog leg)/180 return
4. Spiral (helical) & Elliptical - It is constructed as either a spiral (helical) stair or an ellipse stair. It
is the most economical way to save space, but difficult to use due to the sharp turns. Very dangerous
for the very young and elderly. Usually use where the space is very limited for access to an
intermediate floor of one room.
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Fig.1.5. Spiral (Helical) and Elliptical
5. Winder Stairs – It is a triangular treads or tapered treads that wind around quarter of half turn in
place of landings. It is adopted to reduce the number of steps required in the rest of the stair and to
economize in space. It is usually used in domestic stairs. It can be hazardous as they only offer little
foothold at the interior corner. It is not recommended for public buildings in the means of escape
stairs especially for the very young and elders.
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Fig.1.6. Winder Stairs
1.1.3. Prefabricated timber stairs

Prefabricated timber stairs are pre-made stair systems that are manufactured off-site using timber
materials. These stairs are built in a controlled environment, ensuring high quality and consistency.
Prefabricated timber stairs come in various designs, styles, and configurations to suit specific building
requirements. They can be straight, spiral, or curved, with options for landings and handrails. The
timber materials used can vary, including hardwoods such as oak or maple, or engineered timber
products.
The main advantages of prefabricated timber stairs include faster installation times, reduced labor
costs, consistent quality, and the natural beauty and warmth of timber. Timber stairs can add a touch
of elegance and sophistication to any space, making them a popular choice in residential and
commercial buildings.
These stairs are often used in both interior and exterior applications, providing safe and functional
access between different levels while enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the space.
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Prefabricated timber stairs are pre-made stair systems that are manufactured off-site using timber
materials. These stairs are built in a controlled environment, ensuring high quality and consistency.
Prefabricated timber stairs come in various designs, styles, and configurations to suit specific building
requirements. They can be straight, spiral, or curved, with options for landings and handrails. The
timber materials used can vary, including hardwoods such as oak or maple, or engineered timber
products.
The main advantages of prefabricated timber stairs include faster installation times, reduced labor
costs, consistent quality, and the natural beauty and warmth of timber. Timber stairs can add a touch
of elegance and sophistication to any space, making them a popular choice in residential and
commercial buildings.
These stairs are often used in both interior and exterior applications, providing safe and functional
access between different levels while enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the space.
Installing prefabricated timber stairs involves several steps:
1. Site preparation: The area where the stairs will be installed needs to be cleared of any obstacles
or debris. The dimensions and layout of the stairs should be marked out on the floor or ground.
2. Assembly: The prefabricated timber stairs are delivered to the site in pre-made sections or
modules. These sections are then assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions. This
may involve connecting the treads, risers, and stringers together using screws, bolts, or other
fasteners.
3. Leveling and alignment: Once the stairs are assembled, they need to be leveled and aligned
properly. This ensures that the stairs are stable and safe to use. Shims or adjustable feet may be
used to achieve the correct level and alignment.
4. Attachment: The stairs are then attached to the building structure using brackets, anchors, or
other appropriate fixings. This provides additional stability and support.
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5. Finishing touches: The stairs may require some finishing touches, such as sanding, staining, or
painting, depending on the desired aesthetic. Handrails, balusters, and other accessories can also
be added at this stage.
6. Testing and inspection: Before the stairs are put into regular use, they should be thoroughly
tested and inspected to ensure they meet safety standards. This includes checking for any loose
or unstable components and verifying that all connections are secure.
Overall, installing prefabricated timber stairs is a relatively straightforward process that can be
completed by experienced professionals or skilled DIY enthusiasts. However, it is important to follow
the manufacturer's instructions and any applicable building codes to ensure a safe and successful
installation.
1.1. Work instruction

Work instructions are the plan that includes requirements and operational details of relevant
information to prepare for assembling and Installing Prefabricated Stairs activities. It may
include plans, specifications, quality controlling, working procedures legislation including equal
gender employment opportunity and disability inclusive.
Installing prefabricated stairs refers to the process of assembling and fitting pre-made stair
components into a building or structure. Prefabricated stairs are manufactured off-site and delivered
to the construction site as ready-to-install units. This method of installation offers several advantages,
including time and cost savings, as the stairs are already fabricated and can be quickly installed
without the need for extensive on-site construction. The process typically involves measuring and
preparing the space where the stairs will be installed, positioning and securing the prefabricated stair
units, and connecting them to the surrounding structure.
1.2. Safety & Sign Requirements

1.3.1. Safety
Safety is a precaution to avoid accident, right way of doing to avoid accident , follows direction to
prevent wastage of time, energy & money
To help make your project a safe work site, it is recommended that you:
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1. Wear eye protection at all times.
2. Wear hearing protection when using power tools.
3. Use utility gloves when removing old lumber and when handling material to be installed.
Staircase safety
Safety on the stairs has many contributing factors that impact on the design. Dimensional layout,
material specification, contrasting surface finishes and even seemingly small details such as handrail
profile (and hence grasp ability) will play an enormous role in helping the user move up and down the
staircase safely.
Staircases are often used as the critical means of escape in the event of a fire or can even form part of
the fire compartmentation of a building. Consideration of the user and their specific needs should be
made at initial design and concept stage. Understanding the user classification of the staircase and the
building classification will help to ensure that the design accounts for all of these factors.
 Is the staircase within a public or private building?

 Is the staircase fire protected or contributing to the fire compartmentation of the building?
 Is the staircase used for fire means of escape?
 What specialist needs might the user have?
 Is the staircase used by young children or the elderly or those with other specific needs?
Safety in Working Area

Working place or area is whole building/construction/ site including tools, equipment, machines,
storerooms, etc. Within the general working place there is a personal working area /space/, where
someone is building up a wall or other related activities. Working space is essentially required for all
construction workers, to accommodate materials and equipment for the process; therefore, it is a
crucial and necessary to keep them all in proper manner.
A neat and tidy site safes time, eases the work and avoids accidents. If things like tools, battens,
boards, stones, cables, steel bars etc. are not used or kept improperly they are obstacles for the
construction process and can be the cause for accident.
1.3.2. Signage
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Signage refers to any kind of visual graphics or displays that are used to convey information or
communicate a message. It includes signs, symbols, logos, banners, posters, and other visual elements
that are designed to be easily understood and recognized by viewers. Signage is commonly used for
advertising, way finding, and providing information in public spaces, such as streets, buildings,
airports, malls, and hospitals. It can be made of various materials, including metal, plastic, wood,
glass, or fabric, and can be illuminated or non-illuminated depending on the purpose and location.
Signage plays a crucial role in guiding and informing people, promoting businesses and events, and
enhancing the overall visual appeal of a space.
This section provides information on the signs that you can encounter on the work site. Most signs
are self-explanatory, but if you encounter a sign where the meaning is not clear, seek advice before
you commence work in the area covered by the sign.
Needs of Safety Signage

Safety signs draw your attention to objects and situations affecting your health and safety. Safety
signs are placed in strategic locations as close as possible to hazardous areas.
If they become damaged or unreadable, please report this to your supervisor so that the sign/s can be
replaced. If a sign displays a distinct safety message, it will carry the same authority as a direct
instruction from your Supervisor
1.3. Tools, Equipment and Materials selection

1.4.1. Tools and Equipment
Carpenters should be adequately equipped with a reasonable quantity and variety of tools and
equipment for work to be done efficiently. It is necessary for carpenters to be, not only familiar with
the names of the tools and equipment but, able to identify and select the right tools and equipment for
the job in hand and use it safely and correctly. To make it easier to understand the correct applications
of the various tools and equipment, they are grouped in the following classes.
i. Tools
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These tools are used for measuring, marking out, setting out and testing of a job at various stages,
striking two objects together, forcing other materials into a piece of work and making holes. Among
those, the common tools are;
Table 1.1.List of Tools and Equipment

Measuring & Laying out Tools Percussion tools Impelling tools Boring tools
Ruler Claw hammer screw drivers Drill bits
Straight edge Wooden mallet Nail punch Gimlet
Marking knife Plastic mallet Brace Bradawl
Sliding bevel
Calipers
Try-square
Miter square
ii. Equipment
 Portable power tools
They are light in weight, easily carried, and are held in the hands during operation. The use of
portable power tools in the workshop and on site is ever-increasing. The main advantages of these
tools are work faster with increased productivity, less cutting and maintenance cost. It includes;
 Portable electric saw

 Portable electric plane
 Portable power drill
 Portable sander
Portable power router installing prefabricated stairs refers to the process of assembling and fitting pre-
made stair components into a building or structure. Prefabricated stairs are manufactured off-site and
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delivered to the construction site as ready-to-install units. This method of installation offers several
advantages, including time and cost savings, as the stairs are already fabricated and can be quickly
installed without the need for extensive on-site construction. The process typically involves
measuring and preparing the space where the stairs will be installed, positioning and securing the
prefabricated stair units, and connecting them to the surrounding structure.
1.4.2. Material selection

The natural beauty of timber as a material for stair building provides limitless possibilities in regard
to color, grain pattern, profile and overall surface finish.
Using contrasting yet complementary timbers and design features can make a unique and jaw dropping
feature of the staircase within the overall building environment.
Liaising with a competent staircase manufacturer at the earliest stages of building design will enable
you to experience the full range of timbers and surface finishes available.
The staircase manufacturer will take this specification and compose it into the overall design of the
staircase.
Common points for consideration:
 What materials are available and are they responsibly sourced?

 Does the material need to be supplied with any certification or documentation? (e.g.
Environmental product data, fire, responsible sourcing, strength grade)
 Does the material selection have bearing on the structural capacity of the staircase?
 A combination of different materials and finishes?
 Does the chosen material complement the interior of the building?
 What are the surrounding chosen floor and wall coverings?
The quality or grade of the timber is important and the particular grade required achieving a good
stair.
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1.4. Calculating material quantity
Dimensional layout of a timber staircase
The following information highlights the main dimensional considerations relating to timber staircase
design as detailed in the building regulation guidance. There is different guidance depending on user,
building classification of the staircase and location of staircase.
Steepness of stairs Pitch, rise and going
The pitch of the stair is essentially the angle of the stair. The pitch line is measured at the nosing edge
as shown in the diagram below.
The total rise of the stair is from finished floor level to finished floor level. The rise of an individual
step is measured between upper surfaces of consecutive treads. The going is measured between
consecutive nosing.
Fig: 1.7.Pitch line of the stair
The normal relationship between the dimensions of rise (R) and going (G) is: 550 mm ≤ (2R + G) ≤
700 mm. However, there are limitations set by the different building regulation guidance documents.
Measuring effective clear width
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The term ‘effective clear width’ describes the usable space between handrails and the wall or
guarding.
The diagram below illustrates measuring effective width in different staircase configurations.
The effective clear width between a wall and

balustrade should be measured at 450 mm
above the stair tread surface to the inner face
of the baluster
Small intrusions such as skirting

board are not included in
measuring effective width
Fig: 1.8.Effective clear width between walls
Handrails for stairs

Handrail design for common stairs in blocks of flats:
The handrail must be 900 mm above the pitch line on the flight and at a height of 1000 on the
landings or stair approach:
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Fig: 1.9(a) The handrail distance above the pitch line
Handrail design for buildings other than dwellings the height of the handrail must be between 900
mm and 1100 mm:
Where a stepped change in level within the entrance store of a dwelling is unavoidable, for example
on severely sloping plots, if a flight consists of three or more risers, a suitable continuous handrail is
required on each side of the flight and any intermediate landings.
In addition, for buildings other than dwellings and for common access areas in buildings that contains
flats and do not have passenger lifts, suitable continuous handrail must be installed on both sides of
the stairs and landing.
Fig: 1.20(b) The handrail distance above the pitch line
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Wall Handrail
Handrail should be of a visually contrasting material (not highly reflective), of a material that does
not have high temperature range and slip resistant. The ends of the handrail extensions should be
finished in such a manner that they reduce the risk of clothing being caught.
The wall handrail profile should be either circular or elliptical and mounted on wall brackets,
maintaining a suitable distance from the wall.
Fig: 1.21. Wall Handrail
Landings
Stairway width is defined as the Minimum inside clearance width from handrail to handrail or
handrail to wall. The width of your stairway must allow room for two people to pass on the stairs, and
for bulky furniture to be carried up and down. We recommend at least 42".
A stair landing should be provided at the top and bottom of every flight. A single landing may be
common to 2 or more flights, and be level. It should have an effective width of not less than the
effective width of the stair flight it serves, and be clear of any door swing or other obstruction.
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The minimum length of a stair landing, measured on the center line of travel, should be either 1200
mm or the effective width of the stair, whichever is less.
Fig: 1.22.Landings distance from opening & its width
Headroom for stairs

Headroom is the distance measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing or
from the floor surface of the landing or platform to the underside of any overhead obstruction. Most
staircases are comfortable to use if they have headroom of 7'4" or more. Headroom should never be
less than 6'8".
Fig: 1.23. Stairway headroom
For common stairs, the minimum headroom must be 2000 mm. The key dimensional locations are
shown in the diagram below.
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Fig:1.24. Minimum distance between headroom & Pitch line
Fig.1.25. Layout of Stair Case Planning
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Unit Two: Assembling and erecting stairs
o Exit and ground finish levels determination
o Calculating Rise and going of stairs
o Setting out and placing Newel posts and footings
o Cutting and housing stringers
o To treads and risers
o To newel posts and landings
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• Determine Exit and ground
finish levels
• Calculate Rise and going

of stairs
• Select Material for treads

and riser
• Set out and place Newel

posts and footings
• Stringers Materials
• Cut and house stringers
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2.1. Exit and ground finish levels determination
How to Level Stairs
Stairs consist of notched, diagonal stringers that attach between a landing at the top and the floor at
the bottom, and treads atop cut-out sections of the stringers. Treads that aren't level can pose safety
concerns as well as convenience issues. To level existing stairs, remove any baseboard or pull back
the carpet to access the underside of the stringers at the floor. When installing stairs, level the
stringers before installing the treads. With either application, a do-it-yourself enthusiast can do the
job in a relatively short time.
For concrete floor

Over time, concrete floors can settle unevenly or become uneven due to cracking and moisture.
Whether you want to refinish an uneven basement floor, or replace or add new flooring on top of an
existing concrete floor somewhere in your home, you most likely will need to level the concrete floor.
With the right preparation, equipment, and self-leveling concrete mix, you will be able to do this job
yourself in 1-2 days. Fill any cracks with epoxy. ...
Apply latex bonding compound over all the concrete when the floor is absolutely dry. Mix the self-
leveling compound with water, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pour the self-leveling
compound immediately, because it can dry very quickly.
Wooden floor
How to Level a Wood Floor Sub-Floor
 Clean everything off the floor
 Examine the floor closely for nails or screws that are loose.
 Set a long straightedge tool or a straight piece of 2-by-4-inch lumber on the floor.
 Put on a dust mask.
 Fill low areas with premixed cementations leveling compound applied with a trowel.
When installing a stair it is usual to start from the top and work down. There may need to be some
preparation of joints and trimming to size of components, where required, before the components are
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fixed in position and this should be checked prior to starting the installation. Wall strings, newels and
landings will need to be fixed to the supporting structure. Consideration should be given to the type
of fixings used to ensure that they provide a suitable level of support and that they are appropriate for
the timber, block or other material to which the stair is being fixed. All fixing points should be
prepared with clearance holes (through the piece being secured) and pilot holes (into the structure
being secured to). Never force a fixing into any material, unless the fixing is intended for that
purpose, as this will cause splitting of timber and will weaken the joint. Care when handling should
be taken to protect the delicate birds mouth joint.
2.2. Calculating Rise and Going of stairs

Designing the staircase depends on many factors: the place in which the staircase is going to be
situated (inside or out), the size of hole in the slab and the type of building they’re serving
(residential, commercial or industrial)
 Usual slopes for the flight of stairs
 The relation between the length of the tread (l) and the height of the riser (h).
 Observation:
 The treads of big slope staircases should be made without risers is that the sole of
the foot may have a larger contact area, thus going under the tread above.
Fig.2.1. Flight of Stair
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Table: 2.1. Rise and Going
Rise Going
Minimum(mm Maximum(mm Minimum(mm) Maximum(mm
) ) )
Private stair 150 220 220 300
Utility Stair 150 190 250 400
General access 150 170 250 400

Stair
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Staircase Design calculation – Example 1
Now we are going to calculate the required number of Riser and Tread for a Dog legged staircase
having
 3-metre height
 4-metre width
 1-metre width of landing slab
Solution
Staircase Dimension Calculation Formula
Number of Riser = Height of Staircase/ Height of one number of Riser
Number of Tread = Length of Stair/One number of Tread
Fig. 2.2. Staircase steps calculation
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From the above Diagram,
The staircase has divided into two flights providing a landing slab at mid of the staircase height.
So Number of Riser = Height of Staircase / Height of one Rise
= 1500/150
= 10 Nos
So as per standard, we are providing 300 mm as tread length.
Number of Tread = Length of Stair/One number of Tread
= 3000/300
= 10 Nos
Hence the required number of Riser and Tread is 10 Nos.
Fixing Rise and Run onto stringers

To fix wooden risers and treads onto stringers for a staircase, you can follow these steps:
1. Prepare the stringers: Ensure that the stringers are properly aligned and securely fastened to the
structure of the staircase. The stringers are the diagonal supports that run along the sides of the
staircase, supporting the steps. Make any necessary repairs or adjustments to the stringers before
proceeding.
2. Measure and cut the risers: Measure the height of each riser, which is the vertical distance
between the top of one tread and the bottom of the next tread. Use a measuring tape to measure
the height of each riser individually, as they may vary slightly. Mark these measurements on the
stringers.
3. Attach the risers: Apply construction adhesive to the back of each riser. Position the riser against
the stringer, ensuring it is aligned vertically with the marked measurements. Use a level to check
for plumb. Secure the riser in place with nails or screws, driving them through the riser and into
the stringer.
4. Measure and cut the treads: Measure the width of each step and add a small amount for the
nosing, the overhang of the tread. Mark these measurements on the stringers.
5. Attach the treads: Apply construction adhesive to the top of each stringer and position the tread
on top, aligning it with the marked measurements. Make sure the tread is level horizontally using
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a level. Secure the tread to the stringer with nails or screws, driving them through the tread and
into the stringer.
6. Repeat for the remaining risers and treads: Continue measuring, cutting, and attaching the
remaining risers and treads in the same manner until you have completed the staircase.
7. Finishing touches: Fill any nail or screw holes with wood filler. Sand the surfaces of the risers
and treads to smooth out any rough edges. Apply paint, stain, or finish to match your desired
aesthetic.
2.3. Setting out and placing Newel posts and footings
Installation of newel posts
Newel posts are necessary every time that the handrail changes direction. A newel post is also
necessary on balconies where the length of the handrail is 8 feet or more. Local building codes may
require newel posts in other locations. Check with your building inspector for more information.
For installation of pin top newel posts determine the height of the newel post by calculating the height
of the handrail at the point where the newel post is to be installed.
For installation of a post to post system calculate the center point of the block on the newel post and
ensure that it aligns with the center of the handrail. For balcony handrails the minimum handrail
height is 36″ some local codes require 42″ handrail height
The use of a sure-tite newel fastener is recommended for installing newel posts since it is the
strongest mechanical fastener available. When installing a newel post it is recommended that a level
is clamped to the sides of the newel and the newel is installed plumb.
Steps of Newel Posts Installation

Step 1 Construct a baluster line. Balusters and newel posts are all centered along the same baluster
line. This is calculated by determining the exact location of all the balusters on the stair tread. The
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edge of each baluster should be 1.5” from the front edge of the stair tread. The center point of the
balusters can be determined by calculating the width of the baluster, dividing by 2, and adding 1.5.
For example the center point of a 1.5” baluster would be 2.25” from the edge of the stair tread (1.5”
baluster/2 = .75” + 1.5” edge room = 2.25”). The center points of the newel posts lie along the same
baluster line.
Fig.2.5. Top view of Newel Posts Installation
Step 2 Determine the length between the starting newel Post and the landing newel Posts.
The height of the handrail measured from the leading edge of every tread must meet the local
building code. Account for 1” above the handrail on the top square block of the newel Post.
Step 3 Cut newel Posts to appropriate size.
Step 4 Install the starting newel Post, landing newel Post, and/or half-newel Posts
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Fig.2.6 (a) Install the starting newel Post
Fig.2.6.(b) Install the starting newel Post
Note
1 A Modern Style staircase installation does not require newel posts.

2 For hallway installations, an extra newel post is recommended to be
installed for long sections.
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2.4. Cutting and housing stringers
Cutting and housing stringers is a common practice in carpentry and stair construction. Stringers are
the structural elements that support the treads and risers of a staircase. "Housing" refers to the process
of creating notches or slots in the stringers to receive the treads and risers.
Here's a general overview of how to cut and house stringers for a staircase:
1. Measure and calculate: Start by determining the total rise (vertical height) and total run
(horizontal distance) of the staircase. You'll also need to know the desired tread depth and
riser height. Use these measurements to calculate the number of risers and treads needed.
2. Determine the stringer dimensions: Stringers are typically made from 2x12 or 2x14 lumber.
The width of the stringer is usually the same as the width of the treads. The thickness of the
stringer depends on the span and the load it needs to support. Consult local building codes or a
structural engineer to determine the appropriate size.
3. Lay out the stringer: Use a framing square, a straightedge, and a pencil to lay out the
stringer on the lumber. Start by marking the total rise and total run on the stringer. Then,
divide the total rise by the number of risers to determine the height of each riser. Mark these
measurements along the stringer, keeping in mind that the top riser is typically shorter to
accommodate the thickness of the tread material.
4. Mark the tread and riser locations: Determine the thickness of the tread material and mark
this distance on the stringer at each riser location. This will create the housing or notch for the
treads. Similarly, mark the height of each riser on the stringer, creating the housing for the
risers. Use a square to ensure that the layout lines are perpendicular to the stringer.
5. Cut the housing: With the layout lines in place, use a circular saw or a handsaw to make the
cuts for the housing. Start by making multiple parallel cuts along the width of the housing
area, and then remove the waste material with a chisel or a reciprocating saw. Take care to
make clean and accurate cuts to ensure a proper fit for the treads and risers.
6. Test the fit: Once the housing cuts are complete, test the fit of the treads and risers. They
should fit snugly into the housing without any gaps or wobbling. Make any necessary
adjustments to the housing cuts as needed.
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7. Install the stringer: With the housing cuts completed and checked for accuracy, you can
now install the stringer in its intended location. Secure it to the framing using appropriate
fasteners, such as nails or structural screws. Make sure the stringer is level and plumb before
proceeding with the installation of the treads and risers.
It's important to note that this is a general overview of the process, and the specific steps may vary
depending on the design and requirements of your staircase. It's always a good idea to consult local
building codes and regulations, as well as seek the advice of a professional carpenter or contractor
when constructing stairs.
Fig:2.7. Housing strings.
Fig:2.8. Housing string practices.
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String End Joints
The marking for the appropriate joints at the ends of the strings can now also be completed.
The joint used will depend on the type of stair and the structure to which it is being attached. For
example, for a simple external flight the string is generally notched over the bearer (or landing plate)
or tenoned into a newel post at the top and birds mouthed over the bottom tread (see next Figure)
Fig: 2.9. Supporting stringers.
2.4.1. To treads and risers

Risers should be fixed to the edge of the lower tread with adhesive and a mechanical fixing at centers
not exceeding 150 mm. Penetration should be not less than 2 times the riser thickness.
The top of each riser should be located into a groove in the underside of the tread with a depth of a
third of the tread thickness. This joint should be further supported by angle blocks 75 mm long and 38
mm width on the shorter edges, glued to the riser and tread. The number of blocks will vary
according to the width of the stair.
Strings should be housed to receive the treads and risers to a minimum depth of 12 mm or 0.4 the
string thickness, whichever is the greater. These housings should be tapered to receive wedges to
support the tread and riser. The wedges should be fitted with adhesive to form a rigid joint. Stringers
are housed to accommodate treads and risers or metal brackets are fixed to support treads.
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2.4.2. To newel posts and landings
When strings are fitted into newels, the ends of the strings should have tenons formed to fit into the
newels. The tenons should be not less than 12 mm thick and not less than 45 mm long. However,
where two strings are joined to a newel one or both tenons may be hunched to allow both tenons to be
accommodated.
The mortise joint in a newels should be housed not less than 12 mm deep receive the ends of the
treads and risers and should be mortised for strings and handrails as required. Intermediate newels
should always be manufactured in one part unless test evidence exists to prove that the two part newel
can withstand relevant loadings.
Fig:2.10. Tenons at ends of stringer.
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Fig:2.11. Fixing strings to landing newels.
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Unit Three: Fitting handrails, balustrade and finish.

 Marking, cutting and fixing handrails and balusters material
 Installing non-slip strips treads
 Cleaning up and Waste management
 Mark and cut material handrails and balusters
 Fit and fix handrails and balusters
 Install non-slip strips treads
 Clean up and manage Waste
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3.1. Marking and cutting material handrails and balusters
3.1.1. Cutting the Balusters
1. Measure the length of every baluster in place.
2. Hold the baluster in place with the dowel pushed firmly into the hole in the tread.
3. Use a level to plumb the baluster perfectly. Please note the following figure.
4. Scribe a line even with the pitch of the rail.
5. Add the depth of the plow in the bottom of the rail to this length.
6. Using a miter-saw, cut the baluster at the proper angle.
Fig:3.1. Cutting the square top baluster

3.1.2. Boring the Handrail
1. Using a level or a plumb bob, make a mark on the bottom of the rail directly above and
corresponding with the baluster center on the tread.
2. Drill a hole of the appropriate diameter in the bottom of the rail. The hole size is determined
by the diameter of the baluster top you have chosen.
Note: This hole must be drilled accurately.
There are several ways to bore the hole. One method is to use a jig made with a pitch block
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Drill a hole perpendicular to the run. The hole must be accurate and is best done on drill press with
the run side flat on the table. The drill bit should be the exact diameter of the baluster tops.
This hole will guide your drill. Please note Figure below.
Fig:3.2. Using a jig to drill holes on a slope
3. . Next, clamp the jig to the bottom of the rail with the run side parallel with the treads and the
jig hole centered with the baluster mark on the bottom of the rail.
4. Drill the holes in the bottom of the rail about 1-1/2-inch deep. Place a piece of tape on the
drill bit to make the holes uniform in depth and to prevent drilling too deep.
3.2. Fitting and fixing handrails and balusters

The handrail should be suitably fixed into the newel or intermediate newel using an appropriate and
tested mechanical fixing or mortise and tenon joint. The jointing of the baluster into the underside of
the handrail and the base plate should be of a design suitable to withstand the handrail loading
requirements
3.1.1. Installing the Balusters
Cutting and installing wooden balusters (also called spindles) requires careful measurement,
planning, and the use of appropriate tools. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to cut and fix wooden
balusters:
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1. Measure and plan: Start by measuring the height of the existing or desired baluster. Ensure
you have the appropriate height and number of balusters for safety and compliance with
local building codes. Also, consider the spacing between balusters and ensure it meets the
requirements.
2. Remove old balusters (if applicable): If you're replacing existing balusters, carefully
remove them by cutting through any nails or screws that secure them.
3. Cut the balusters: Measure and mark the desired height on each baluster. Use a miter saw or
a handsaw to make precise cuts at the marked locations. Ensure that all the balusters are cut
to the same height.
4. Test-fit the balusters: Before permanently fixing the balusters, do a test fitting to ensure
they fit properly. Insert each baluster into the designated slots or holes on both the top and
bottom railings. Make any necessary adjustments or recuts if the balusters are too long or
too short.
5. Fix the balusters: Once you're satisfied with the fit, apply wood glue to the bottom end of
each baluster. Insert the glued end into the corresponding hole or slot on the bottom railing,
making sure it's securely seated. Apply pressure to ensure a tight bond between the baluster
and the railing.
6. Secure the balusters: To further reinforce the baluster's attachment, use finishing nails or
screws to secure them. Drill pilot holes into the top and bottom railings, ensuring they match
the angle and size of the nails or screws you're using. Then, drive the nails or insert the
screws through the pilot holes and into the balusters.
7. Repeat the process: Continue cutting, fitting, gluing, and securing the remaining balusters,
following the same steps.
8. Finishing touches: Once all the balusters are fixed, clean up any excess glue and make sure
they are firmly in place. Sand any rough edges or surfaces for a smooth finish. Apply paint,
stain, or varnish to the balusters as desired, following the manufacturer's instructions.
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Fig. 3.3. Installing the Balusters
Installing Round Top Balusters

For Installing Round Top Balusters the first main activities are Boring the Treads and Boring the Rail
as we mentioned above in (3.1.2.). Then follow the following procedure:
Cutting and Installing Round Top Balusters
Fig:3.4. Alternative method for installing round top balusters
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1. Measure the length of every baluster in place.
2. . Hold the baluster in place with the dowel pushed firmly into the hole in the tread.
3. Line the center of the top of the baluster with the center of the hole in the bottom of the rail.
4. On the baluster, scribe a line equal to the pitch of the rail. Please note the following figure
below
5. Add 1/2-inch to the longest point of this line and make a square cut on this mark with a miter
saw.
6. Gently remove the rail.
7. Glue and nail the bottoms of each baluster into the tread. This will keep the balusters from
spinning.
8. Push the rail down on top of the baluster, tapping it firmly with a rubber mallet.
9. Secure the rail to the newels.
10. Attach the baluster to the rail with a small nail.
3.1.2. Installing Rake Rail Sections (Upper and Lower)
1. Select a piece of rail long enough to reach between the newels. On one end of the rail, make a
cut at an angle equal to the pitch of the stair. Note: Use a pitch block to determine this angle.
2. Lay the rail on the treads and let the angled end slide tightly against the lower newel. If it
does not fit tightly, adjust the angle cut until it does. Please note Figure below .
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Fig. 3.5.Laying the rail on the treads
3. Scribe a line where the rail intersects with the top newel. Cut the rail along the line.
4. Measure down the reveal plus the thickness of the rail (on the plumb) from the top of the
bottom newel.
5. Clamp a block below the mark. Note Fig. 3.5.on previous page.
6. Set the rail into place and bolt as needed.
7. Attach appropriate trim.
Installing Post-to-Post Rail with Fittings

The post-to-post balustrade system with fittings is more complicated than the standard post-to post
system. The complexity yields a wider variety of applications than the standard post-to-post.
To install post-to post systems with fittings, cut and install newels as described in the standard post-
to-post section (without fittings). The post-to-post with fittings system uses newels that have the
same size top square. (Generally 5 - 7inches.)
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1. Make a square cut on the end of the handrail.
2. Attach an up easing to the end of the rail with a rail bolt.
3. Lay the rail on top of treads on the first run. Please note Fig below.
Fig.3.6. Adding fitting to upper newel post.
4. Slide rail upwards until the fitting touches the face of the landing newel.
5. At the point where the fitting touches the face of the landing newel, scribe a line on the
fitting perpendicular to the newel using a square.
6. Cut the up easing off on this line.
7. Lay rail back on to the treads and slide the rail up until the fitting is the desired distance
away from the face of the newel.
8. At the face of the bottom newel, scribe a line with the pitch of the rail. Please note Fig.
below
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Fig:3.7. Marking rail at lower newel post
9. Cut off the bottom end of rail at this line.

10. Place rail back onto the treads with the bottom end fitted tightly against the face of the
bottom newel.
11. Measure the distance from the back of the fitting to the face of the newel and add to this
distance the thickness of the rail. This is your return length. Please note Fig. below.
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Fig.3.8. Determining return length.
12. Measure the distance from the top of the rail to the top of the bottom newel. Please note Fig.
below
Fig.3.9. Determining the length of the drop
13. Measure the distance from the top of the fitting to the top of the upper newel.
14. Subtract the distance from the distance in Step 13. This is the length of your drop or neck.
15. Mark the gooseneck and make the cut.
16. Attach gooseneck to the fitting.
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17. Raise rail up to the proper rail height and bolt each end to the newels. Please note Fig.
below
Fig.3.10. Bolting rail to newel posts.
Generally to fix a handrail to balusters, you'll typically need a few tools and materials, such as a drill,
screws, a level, a tape measure, a pencil, and a screwdriver. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you
with the process:
1. Measure and plan: Start by measuring the length of the handrail you'll need and determine the
appropriate height for the rail. Typically, the handrail should be about 34 to 38 inches above the
stairs or walking surface. Use a pencil to mark the desired height on each baluster.
2. Pre-drill holes: Use a drill with an appropriate-sized drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes in each baluster
at the marked height. Ensure that the drill bit is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws you'll
be using to attach the handrail.
3. Attach the handrail brackets: Handrail brackets are metal or wooden supports that hold the handrail
in place. Position the brackets along the length of the handrail, evenly spacing them out. Use a level
to make sure the brackets are straight, and mark their positions with a pencil.
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4. Install the brackets: Use a drill to create pilot holes at the marked positions for the brackets. Then,
attach the brackets to the handrail using screws. Make sure the brackets are securely fastened.
5. Position the handrail: With the help of a friend or family member, hold the handrail in place,
aligning it with the pre-drilled holes in the balusters and the brackets. Ensure that the handrail is
level and centered along the balusters.
6. Attach the handrail to the balusters: Insert screws through the pre-drilled holes in the balusters and
into the handrail. Start at one end and work your way to the other, tightening the screws securely.
Make sure the handrail is firmly attached to each baluster.
7. Test the stability: After attaching the handrail, give it a firm shake to ensure it is stable and secure.
Make any necessary adjustments or tighten screws if needed.
8. Finishing touches: If desired, you can fill the screw holes with wood putty or a similar filler to
create a more polished appearance. Sand down any rough edges or splinters on the handrail and
balusters.
3.3. Installing non-slip strips treads

Slipping, tripping and falling are risks that can be associated with steps and stairs, and can lead to
serious injuries.
Australian stair nosing standards state the following requirements are mandatory for anti-slip stair
nosing and are drawn from the (National Construction Code)NCC Volume 1, (BCA) To fully comply
with current Australian Standards all public access stairs should;
 Be fitted with stair nosing that have a fully non-slip horizontal surface,
 Have 90degree stair nosing measuring a minimum of 50mm wide by 10mm minimum
deep,
 Have stair nosing with a luminance contrast of at least 30 percent against the surface.
New construction, unless exempt, has to meet code requirements and stair nosing simply becomes
necessary.
You need to select a stair nosing that is durable, slip resistant, retains attractive appearance even in
high traffic stairways, but the most important feature is it must meet the relevant construction code
and standards.
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Fig. 3.11. Installing non-slip strips treads
How to Install Non-Slip Decking Strips

Wooden decking areas are notorious for becoming slippery when wet, or when covered with algae.
Non-Slip Decking Strips are a quick and easy way to improve safety on wood deck flooring they
create an instant non-slip surface, right over the top of your existing decking.
Description
Non-Slip Decking Strips are a high performance safety stair tread made from high quality FRP (Fibre
Reinforced Plastic)/ GRP (Glass--bre Reinforced Plastic)
Characteristics
 Slip Resistant Surface

 Impact Resistant
 Class 1 Flame Spread – Non Sparking
 Corrosion Resistant
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 Lightweight
 Non Metallic
 Tough & Durable
 Choice of Nosing Color
 Choice of Sizes
 Quick Installation
 Manufactured to ISO 90
Step 1 - Preparation & Safety
The wooden decking surface should be swept, and then cleaned with a suitable decking wash to
remove mildew and algae. Such cleaners are readily available on the market or alternatively please
use our very own Decking Wash. This will make for easier installation, lengthen the lifespan of your
decking and the Non-Slip Decking Strips, and ensure the surface is as anti-slip as possible.
All rotten decking should be removed and replaced prior to the installation of Non-Slip Decking
Strips. The Decking Strips are only designed to be installed onto pre-existing surfaces. Decking that
is questionable or rotten may give way, and would, therefore, be unsafe for foot traffic.
Step 2 - Fixing & Tools
You will need a drill with a screwdriver head and enough screws to secure the strips to the decking
boards. The number of screws needed per strip can be found in our FAQ
We recommend that the Dino Grip Decking Strips be fixed into place using Galvanized or Stainless
Steel at star headed screw. We do not recommend installing the Decking Strips using standard
screws as these will rust, stain the decking and not sit at into the Decking Strips, thereby creating an
additional trip hazard. All of our Decking Strips come with free galvanized screws but we would
recommended stainless steel screw installations near pools of water.
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Fig.3.12. Installing Non-Slip Decking Strips
Please use star head screws specifically so they don’t round offresulting in a better finish
We recommend applying an adhesive as a

cushion in order to avoid drumming sounds
Step 3 - Cutting Non-Slip Decking Strips
We are able to cut down any size strip to the size you need before shipping – just let us know when
placing your order. This service is absolutely FREE.
If you need to cut the Decking Strips to size yourself during your installation, we recommend that a
suitable dust mask with protective safety goggles and gloves are worn.
The Decking Strips should be cut outside or in well-ventilated areas using a hack-saw, a jigsaw (with
a tile blade) or by using a hand grinder.
Dust residue can be disposed of using normal waste disposal methods. No special permissionsor
licenses are required.
Step 4 – Installing Non-Slip Decking Strips
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Our Decking Strips are all pre-drilled, so you can install them instantly! Simply lay down all your
Decking Strips, ensuring they are in the correct place and the correct size, and drill into place using
an electric drill with the correct screwdriver head, and screws.
Fig.3.13.The effect of slip Strips
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M10-Install Prefabricated Stairs

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M10-Install Prefabricated Stairs

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STRUCTURAL CONSTRUCTION WORKS

Introduction to the module

This module covers the units:

 Requirements for Assembling and Installing prefabricated stair

Learning Objective of the Module

 Identify assembling and installing prefabricated stair requirement

Requirements for Assembling and Installing prefabricated stair

• Introduction to prefabricated Stairs

• Safety & Sign Requirements

• Tools, Equipment and Materials selection

• Calculating material quantity

Completion of this learning guide, the trainees will be able to:

• Obtain ,conform work instruction

• Identify and implement Sign/barricade

• Select tools and equipment

• Calculate material quantity

• Identify, obtain and prepare Materials

• Identify environmental protection

Table 1 Name of parts of stair

Rise + Tread = Step

Fig: 1.1. Parts of stair

1.1.2. Types of Stairs

Fig.1.2. Straight flight/straight runs

Fig.1.4. Half turn (dog leg)/180 return

1.1.3. Prefabricated timber stairs

Installing prefabricated timber stairs involves several steps:

1.1. Work instruction

1.2. Safety & Sign Requirements

2. Wear hearing protection when using power tools.

 Is the staircase within a public or private building?

Safety in Working Area

Needs of Safety Signage

1.3. Tools, Equipment and Materials selection

Table 1.1.List of Tools and Equipment

 Portable electric saw

1.4.2. Material selection

Common points for consideration:

 What materials are available and are they responsibly sourced?

Steepness of stairs Pitch, rise and going

Fig: 1.7.Pitch line of the stair

Measuring effective clear width

The effective clear width between a wall and

Small intrusions such as skirting

Fig: 1.8.Effective clear width between walls

Handrails for stairs

Fig: 1.20(b) The handrail distance above the pitch line

Fig: 1.21. Wall Handrail

Fig: 1.22.Landings distance from opening & its width

Headroom for stairs

Fig: 1.23. Stairway headroom

Fig.1.25. Layout of Stair Case Planning

o Exit and ground finish levels determination

o Calculating Rise and going of stairs

o Setting out and placing Newel posts and footings

o Cutting and housing stringers

o To treads and risers

o To newel posts and landings

Completion of this learning guide, the trainees will be able to:

• Calculate Rise and going

• Select Material for treads

• Set out and place Newel

• Cut and house stringers

For concrete floor

2.2. Calculating Rise and Going of stairs