Professional Documents
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纺织专业英语
纺织专业英语
随着中国加入 WTO、中国纺织业加快了走向世界的步伐,国际间的技术交流
和贸易往来史加频繁,因而给纷织高等教育提出了新的要求。为广提高纺织工种-专
业学生的专业外语水平、提高其阅读能力,编者特编写木教材,以满足纺织专业学
生学习的需要、
本书编者从事纺织英语教学十几年,经过对教学经验的全面总结,精心编写了
这本《纺织专业英语》教材。本书在原有教学讲义的基础上,根据敦师和学生反
馈的意见做了详细的修订。 书中的泛文精选于原文资料,语言流畅。教材内容主要
包括纺织原料、纺纱、机织、针织、非织造布等方面,涵盖了纺织专业常用的基本
词汇。 书中内容新颖、打破了以往专业英语教材的结构模式,没有对整篇文意进行
翻译,而是对文中重点语句作了分析和翻译,并在每篇 文章前加上内容提要,最后
提出相关问题,引导学生用英文学习和思考专业知识。
本书是针对纺织工程本科专业及相关专业的学生编写,也可供纺织技术人员及
纺织院校教师参考.
本书在编与过程中得到我校胡颖梅老师的大力支持和帮助,编考在此表示衷心
的感谢。
由于编者水平有限,书中不当之处在所难免,敬清读者批评指正。
李建萍
2005年B月
厂成都纺织高等专科学校
-
1
1
一
V
目 录
第1课 纺织工业的发展…………………………………………………………………………(1)
第2课 纺织纤维及其性能……………………………………………………………………………………………(5)
第3课 天然纤维素纤维素——棉……………………………………………………………(9)
第4课 韧皮纤维…………………………………………………………………………………………………………(13)
第5课 天然蛋白质纤维……………………………………………………………………………………………………(17)
第6 课 人造纤维素纤维…………………………………………………………………………………(22)
第7课 合成纤维(1) ………………………………………………………………………(26)
第8课 合成纤维(2)………………………………………………………………………(30)
第9课 纱线分类……………………………………………………………………………………(35)
第10 课 纱线细度和纱线加捻…………………………………………………………………………………………(40)
第11 课 开清棉工艺………………………………………………………………………………………(44)
第12 课 梳棉工序……………………………………………………………………………(48)
第13课 精梳工序………………………………………………………………………………………(52)
第14 课 并条T.序…………………………………………………………………………………(56)
第15 课 粗纱工序…………………………………………………………………………………(59)
第16课 环链纺纱…………………………………………………………………………………………………………(62)
第17 课 新型纺纱方法……………………………………………………………………………………(66)
第18 课 机织物……………………………………………………………………………………(71)
第19 课 三原组织…………………………………………………………………………………………………………(74)
第20课机织准备……………………………………………(78)
第21 课 织机………………………………………………………………………………………………(81)
第22课 无梭织机…………………………………………………………………………………………………………(84)
第23 课 针织………………………………………………………………………………………(88)
第24 课 非织造织物…………………………………………………………………………………(93)
附录1 纺织纤维的基本性能 ……………………………………………………………………(97)
附录2 特种毛纤维 ……………………………………………………………………………………(99)
附录3 变形纱 ……………………………………………………………………………(101)
附录4 机械式粘合方法……………………………………………………………………………(103)
附录5 洗涤标签………………………………………………………………………………………………………(105)
Contents
Jesson I Development of Texile Industry…………………………………………(1
JLessOn 2 Textile Fibers and Their Properties …………………………………(5)
Lesson 3 Natural Cellulosic Fiber—Cotton ………………………………(9)
Less0n 4 Bast Fiher………………………………………………………(13)
Lesson 5 Natural Prutein Fibers …………………………………………………(17)
I.e8s0n 6 Manufactured CelluloFic Fibers……………………………………………(22)
Le98on 7 Symthelic Fibers(1)……………………………………………………(26)
LeSspn 8 Synthetice Filbers(2)……………………………………………(30)
Ie9s0n 9 Classificalion of Yarns………………………………………………(35)
Leson 10 Yar) Sze and Yarn Twist………………………………………………(40
Le390n I Opening and Cleaning …………………………………………(44)
Le8on 12 Carding………………………………………………………………(48)
[e380n 13 The Combing Prot:es……………………………………(52
Leson 14 Drawing ……………………………………………………(56
Le80n 15 Roving …………………………………………………………(59)
Leson 16 The RingSpinning……………………………………………………(62)
Les0nl 7 The New Methods of Spinning………………………………………(66)
Iess0n 18 Woven Fabrics …………………………………………………………(7L)
L Pskon 19 The Three Bagic Weaves………………………………………………………(74)
Jesson 20 Preparation for Weaving …………………………………………(78)
Less0t 2I The Loom ………………………………………………………………(81)
Je8Son 22 Shuttleles lo0ms ……………………………………………………(84)
Les9ot 23 Knitting………………………………………………………………………(88)
LeRson 241. Nonwoven Fabric……………………………………………(93)
Appendix 1 Primary Properties of Texlile Fibers ……………………………………(97)
Appendix 2 Speeialty Hair Fibers ………………………………………………………(99)
Appendix 3 Texkured Yars ………………………………………………………(101)
Appendix 4 Mechanical Bonding ……………………………………………………(103)
Appendix5 Care Label……………………………………………………………(105)
Lesson 1 Development of Textile Industry
Objectives -
1. State the definition of textiles.
2. Introduce the development of textile industry.
3. State the major types of textiles.
The word textile romes from thc Lain term texilis ("woven",and the verb texfere,"t
weave"). Today,the wond textile is more generalized to refer to products made frum fibers'. A
fber ie defined,in a very general way,as any product{capable of being woven or oherwise made
into a fabric),It may be thought of as the amallest visible unit of textite prduction.These
defiritions are quite broad,and it is often dificult for a textile technologist to delineate what is and
is not a fiber or a textile.
Fibers(the usua] starting place for a stuuly of textiles),may be agricultural producte(such
as coton or wol)or units(such as nylon nr polyester)manufacturod in a chemical plant. Fibers
the:n serve us the raw mateeiul in ihe nexf slage of 1exlile rnanufacturing.They may be spun into u
strand, called a yarm,which can be used to knit a sweater,to sew two pieces of fabric together,or
to weave g fabric.Firs alsn may be made directly into a broad ranEe of nonwoven fabricF such as
felt for a hat or the underlayment for a modern highway.
Fabric ie a planar structure produced by interlacing yarns in pnceses such as weaving,
knitting,knotting,and braiding,or boy binding fibers togeter te form a structure.Fabrics are
produced in such forms as the flat sheets for a bed,the Lbular body of a T-shirt,or the shaped
nose cone of a rocket.Many of these fabricB are not aesthetically pleasing iuring the early stages of
their manufacture. To enhance their appearance and improve their functional performance,fabrics
can he dyed or printerl,then treated with spwcial finishef.The result is called dyed and finished
fabric.
Understanding the broad variety of textile product> available requires systematic: sludy. This
lext introduces such a stuly by fist categorizing producte a fbers,yams,fabrics,and dyed and
finished texiles.Within theee product classes,textiles are described by their primary end uses,
most frequently by the prinury textile murket:apparel,domeetic and industrial. The dlelineation
of the products within these mrarket cantegories is not precise.Some statistics include all clathing
products in the apparel classification; okhers place protective clothing und military uniforms in the
心
广et 1>1..,t11:3.1..1;
e _,LA
industrial textile category'.BAmeslic or household textiles include such products as towels,
sheets,draperies, uphnlstery, and some sarpvets and rugs. The industrial lextile market
encompaesses prukducts as diverse as tire cord,filters,aulortive upholstery,hat air ballnarny anrl
parachutes.Carpets and floor coverings are such a Jarge market in both the indnstrial ant
household sectors that the figures for floor coverings frequentily are segregated as a furlh primry
1tcxtilu: rnarket.
Thr textile. properties of concern lo the :orsumer in each of these markets are likely to he
quite difTerent.For some apparel textiles,cxlor arid slyle mar be moreimportant than durabilily
and requirements for care4.(:olor and moisture absorbeney may be itnportant criteria to a consumer
selv:ting a bath 1owel.Iurability,mkr:hanical properties,und prive may be the important criteria
to the pur・hasing officer responsible for eelecting the cord tr be usel in manufacturing tires.
Traditionuly,the textile and apparel indlistries had corsisted of small firms competing
vigurously.Economi textbooks often used thrm as examples of perfe:c:t cumpeLlition. Ry the
1940)s, ome firms had been cormsolirated ir an ellort to incre∶ase prof作 through economies of
scale.In the 1950s,J.Sencer Love began Lo acquire the firns that would become Burlington
Induetries.Thirty years later,in the 1980s,Burlington Industries and its competitors were
restructured through mergers,acquisitions and leveragedi huyputs. Changes in ownership and in
the corporate strueture of the major fextile fms are expected to conlisue into the 1990s.
Afltet the consalidation of the industry inr th: 1940s and 1950s,manufactaring produc:tivity
increased.Indiviual firms gained control of a larger share of the market and concentrated their
produclion efforts in specifice areas.Larger fimms could affor to modernize pruduction facilities arndi
to fund new product development. Recent modernizations have focused ort the installation of highly
automated equipment that reduces the number of employees in production areas.
Traditionally,the textile and apparel indusiries were referred to as labor-intensive rather than
capital-intensive. The hasic machines used for textile and apparc] pruduction were relativelv
inexpensive, but they required large numbers af skilled and semiskilled workers to keep ther
operating. Labor was cheap and plentiful in the textile-producing states. The number of people
emplayed hy the textile industry in the United Stater has deveAer in recent years.Emplnoyment
dropped from 709,000 in July 1990 to 667,000 in july 1991.The automation of the industry and
increased importing of textiles from overseas are respwnsible for mary of the changes in employment
figures. The skil level of employees is changing a well, beeause workers responsible for highly
ulamated equipment must receive spexeial training.
Jnuet as thanges in textile manufacturing have necurred over 1he years, 90 has textile
consumption changed. Between 1950 and 1955,the aversge worldwide cotton fiber cansumption
was 17.839,680 pounds.The United Stutes was she miajor consumer,followed by Westerm
Europe,Fastem Europe,China,India and Japan.Bclwcen 1985 and 1989,average cotton
consumption was 39,760,320 pounds per year. China was the major consumer,followed by
Fastem Europe,India,United Stales,Westeru Europe,Pakistan anu Brazit. The world economy
侈
影夕夕 Development of Textfle Induetzy
Questions on Reading
1. What are: textiles?
2. What are the main kinds of lextiles described by their end uses?
4
Lesson 2 Textile Fibers and Their Properties
: Objectives
1.Define fibers and textile fibers,
2.Describe the classification of textile fibers,
3 State the essential properties of textile fibers.
Fibers,the primary maLerials from which most textile producte are made,Can be defined as
units of hairlike dimensjons,with a length at least one hundred times greater than the widh. Many
subsances found in nature can be classified as fbers according to this definition. However,only a
litmited number of these materials are useful in the production of yarns and fabrics.
As is known to all of us, textile fibers may be found in nalure or created hy man. Those that
are: [outd in nature are known as natural fibers,which are taken from either animal,vegetable,or
mineral wourves. Animal fibers could he 6nher subdivided into those fbers from the hair of an
anirnal such es wool and ihose from an extruded web such as silk.Plant fibers could be furthert
subdivided according Lo the purt of the plant that produces the fiber: the leaf,a hair produced
from a seedped,or the ctem.The latler are ealled bast fibers.Chemically,the classification might
be prtein for animal fibers,celluloeic for plant fibers,and names of the specifie mirerals(such
as ashestos)for mineral fibers'.Using this sclerre,woul is an animal,hair,or protein fber and
r:oLton is a plant, seedpod,or celulosic fber.
Those that are created hy man through technology are known as man-msde fibers*,which are
sufdivided into two basic clasificatians、Regenerated man-made fibers3are made from natural
maLerials that eannot be used for textiles in their original form,but that can be regenerated into
usable fbers by chemical Ireatment and processing.These regenerated fibers are made from such
diverse substances a woodl,corn,proLein,small cotton bits called linters,and seeweel. True
synthetic: men-made ibers' are made or"synthesized"completely from chernical substances such
as petroleum derivatives.And it was not until 1885, when the first man-made fiber Rayon was
groduced commnercially that man began to make uee of both the natura] fber and the man-made
fiber to proluce Lextile product8.
Whciher a fiber can be utilized in the creation of a yarn or fabrie depende upon the physical
and chemical properties of the fler. The essential physical properties or primary properties ate
thnse required for rarufacturing or processing the fibers into yar or fabric、They include a high
5
八早 贵,防一贷
夕了了己““子子了了
Questions on Reading
1.Wht is fier?
2. What are textile fibers?
3. Whal are the essential properties of Lextile fibers?
4.Huw the fiber properties influence the fabric performances?
6.
Lesson 3 Natural Cellulosic Fiber—Cotton
Objectives
1. Introduce the major varieties of cotton.
2. State the main properties of cotton fiber.
3. Introduce the methods of measuring fiber length and linear density.
Cotton,which cores from seed-hairs,is the most widely used of the natural cellulosic fibers
and is wel known to m0s1 consumers. The cotton grows on the plant as long hair attached to the
geeds(inside the boll).
There are numerous varieties of coton growrt al] over the world. Such basic characteriticB as
length and fineness af the cotton iber are dependent on the type of the seed used. However,fiber
properties are also sensitive to changes in environmnental conditions during the growth period. All
varety of (tton inherently contains a 8mall Dercentage of short iber8,But any dr9stic chargee in
climaric conditions can result in the unbalance of the normal propertie. The proportions of short
and immature fibers in cotton are a major factor in determining its quality and are a source of
nuisance during processing'.Maurity of cotton is characterized by the degree of the development
of the ecll wall2.lf a cntton fber has a well-developed wall thickness,itis said to be rnakure; on
the other hand,a cotton fiber with a Ihin and porly developed cell wall is snid to be immature.
Before yam manufacture, cotton is graded, sorted, and blended lo insure aniform yarn
quality. Cotton is graded on the basis of its color,sfaple length,fineness and freedom from foreign
mutter.In American,cotton can be divided into seven-step scale from good-middling'(best)jo
good-ordinary *(poorest ),Good-middling is the whitesl,lonigest,finest,cleanest,and mosl
lustrous of the lot.It requires the least amount of efort to produce high-quality coton goods.
Gond-ordinary may be yellowieh or gray,conuain mary bits of twigs and other trash,and is made
up of the shurlest, coarsest, dallest filers.
The entton fiber may be from 0.3cm to 5.5cm long.Under he mieroscope、it appeare as a
ribbonlike tructure that ie twisted at irregular intervals along its length. The twists,called
"ronvolutions",increase the fiber-to-fiber frictian necessary to secure n strong spun yam. The
fiber ranges in color from a yellowish to pure white,and ray be very lustrous.However,most
coton is dull
D
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己夕子
天设
The cros-section of cotton fiber is kidney-shaped with a central hollow core known as the
lumen.The fiber is found 1o consist af an outer ehell,or cuticle,which surTournds the primary
wall. The primary wal!,in turn,covers the secondary wall surrovunding the lumen.
Techtically,the most important fiber length is called the "stuple kength".
There are yeveral methuds that have heen developed over a period of years for the
meauremen1 of fiber Jength, These include:
(I) Individua] fiber methods5.
(2) Cormb sorters methods(mechaniral and semirnechanical sorters).
(3)Sc:anning methods.
Method(1)is a very tediou8 and time-consuming one and is only used by research workers.
Alhough the cnab sosetcrs are very uaeful in providing information on the length disribution
and in determining the amount of short fibers present in the earmple,the method is tedious and
time eonauming too. To overcome these difficulties,a number of other devices have been
develesperf ie which a representative tuft of a materiai is seanned photnelectrically from end to end
for a property lnearly related to number.One of the moe1 ertensively u9ed instruments in which
the principle of photoelectric scanning is ulilized is the Fibrograph developed by Hertel for the
measurement of cotton fiber length. This method involves the presentalior of the test specimen for
scanning iut the form of a pair of fiber tufts.The inatrument is used mainly to obtain the averege or
rnear length and the upper half mean length of fibers°,
The linear density of a sample of fbers can be deterrmined either by an individual fber
method or by the cut middles method. The former method can be combined with the individual
fber nmelhod uacd fnr meesuring the fiber lcngth,a known number of fibers whose length has been
meacured is weighed the weight divided by the total length then gives the linear density of fibers.
The ASTM'standard method for cotton suggests the weighing of the groups of fibers of known
length range.Fror each group,approximately 100 fihers are taken, and the weight and the count
of the fibers are obtained(the two shartest groups and the fibers thal weigh less than 2 mg are
ignored). From the weightings,the rnean fber linear density (mnicrograms per inch)is
calculated.
In the cut-middles method, a known length(generally ]cm)fror the middle of tufte of
parallelized flers i sliced out iy means of razor blades set in a holder at a desired distance.
Fibers in groups of 100 are counted from each of the tufts and weighed, care being taken to avoid
fhers shorter than lcm.These methods are nol suitahle for highly crimped fber because of the
crror introduced into the length mcasurement.
specics 种、物种
Gusspiuan 棉(属名)
environmental 环境的
inherently 固有的
immature 未成熟的
property 品质
nuisancE 损害,伤害
matuarity count 成熟度百分数
maturity 成熟度
mature 成澳的
texile 纺织品
staple 切断纤维
conkh sarter 梳片式纤维长度分析仪
。图言己它不 试样
1nf i纤维! 簇
Fibrograph 纤维长度照影仪
Questions on Reading
1.What are the major factors in determining the quality of cotton fiber?
2.What is maLurity of cotor ihber?
3. How to measure the fiber length?
4. Skeich the cross-section of the cotton fiber and label its parts.
12
LesSson 4 Bast Fibers
-Objectives
1, Introduce the general aspects of bast fibers,
2.State the main properties and end uses of flex fiber.
3. State the mein properties and end uses Df ramie.
As the narme impliea,these fibers are oblained from the inner burk of the sLerus of plants. 'The
m0t important filrs in this group are linen(fax),jute,ramie,hemp and sunn.Thexe fbers
are also composed of celulose.'They are made of luing, thick-walled cells glued tugether by
norcelluosic materials(lignin andl pectin)resulting in long fiber bundies running the entire length
of the stem.The amnount aof noncellulosice material] varies cnnsiderably from one type of fiher to the
other. For example,jute may contain u tmnuch as 20ligrin,t:ompared to 8in fax.
The hast fihers are reamoved from woody stems hy the process known as"reting"1. The
funIctiaon of this process is te ferment the roncellulosic matrrial binding the fibers and remnove il by
washimg in water. However,the indlividual fibers,wbich are extremely short,are not completelv
separated from one another,bul are extraried in strands to make them viable for textile prwcesing.
1. FlaX
Flax was probably the first plant fiber used,and it may be the first fber frotn any sourc:e used
in the Western World. Flax strands are generally processed in lengths varying from 18 in. up to
approximately 36 iu. This length suffers a loss by the time he strands reach the spinning proceas.
Flax is generally graded on the basis of its color,which is usually yellowish white, but may change
depending on the condititns during the proces of retting'.
Individual flax fibere vary in length from 0.25 in.to 2.5 in.,and are about 25 u in
diameter. The fiber is long,transparent,cylindrical,and hag a smoth but sometimes striated
appearance.It has a narow lumen runing through the center3.In cross section,the cell walls
aptear thick and jolygonal in shape.Flax fiber is cnrparatively stronger than cotuon but has very
low extensibility.It has an average tenacity of shmut 60 g/tex and approximately 1.8 xtensin-
to-break.It bas a regain of about 12 nd is uhou1 20 tronger wet than dry.Linen is mainly
used in the manufareture of sailcloth,tent falric,eewing threads,fishing lines,table-cloths anr
shtvet.
管
心峰叫、。己”记一贷
八飞 力予““ 式乌
2.Romie
Ramie,or China grass,isa bas1 Tber thaL ha :ultivated for hundreds of years in China,the
Malay Peninsula,and the Philippine lslands.Now,it is being grown in Florida and the West
[ndia a; well.
Ramie fbers are long and very lirne.They are sinilar tu flax in nost properties. The fiher is
very strong;ils tenacity is 5.3g/d lo 7.4 g/d,and it increases in strength when wet,Ramie
fhers are a hit atifler and rnore :rystalline.Table 4.Iis a rompurison af the properties, rf cqlton
lax Rnd rarmie. Foc rnufy years,the only rermie meen irn the Unilel Stte was ths used a a
suhstitute for flax in tahle liners. Harie suddeniy began to appear in apparel fabrics during the
1980s,when sorte of the Asia countries begarn to blend it wih nther fhers in an attempt to raise
their textile exports. Most of it appeare in blends with coten,rayon,polyesler,acrylic and silk.
The fiber is often blended with two oT more other filbers.
Tahe 4.t Properties of Selected Natural Celulosic Fihers
Coton 7lax Ranmie
T:nasiy (e 3) Dry 3.0-5.0 2.6,7.7 5.3 ̄7.4
Wiet 3.3-6.0 3.1-9.2 5.8 ̄8.9
Elangation(% 75 65 58
[Flaslic rerovery,2%)
Dersity (g/tmt') 1.54-1.56 1.5 1.56
Moistue regin(Iec) 8.5-10.3 12.0 7.8
3. Jute
Jute is cne of the rncst inportant fibers used for industrial applications'. It is mostly ustd in
making"sack clolh"and carpet-backing fabric.I is primarily grown in India,Pakistan,and t a
certain extracted frort the China.It is extracted] by u retting process similar to the one used for
flax. Jute is gradedl on the boasis of its cxolor and string length. lts rolor vaies from yellow to brwn
t diry gray,and it is lustraus in appearanCe,Jute fbers generally baye a rough feel: however.
the besl quality fiters are stmonth and soft.The strand length varies from approximately 5 ft.to 12
ft.Jute fibers vary greatly in strength and are not as strong as flax or hemp.They have an
elongation-to-break of approximaely 1.7?ule is highly hygroscnpic in nature'.Besides having
mary incdustrial applications,finer guality jute Gibers are utilized in furnishing and curtain fabries.
Bleached jute is sometimee blended with wwol to pmvide cheap woven apparel fakrics.
4. Hemp
Hemp comes from the bark of the plant Cannabis Sativa. It is grown in alronst all the
countries of Furope,and in many parties of Asia. Hemp fiber is extracted from the waody matter
分
1:27 Bast Eibers
by reting and subsequen1 breaking and scutching.It is coarser than lax and has a dark coor.
However, the strand length varies from 4 f. te 10 t.The fiber shows joints and cracks on the
surdace.]t has a lenacityof 5.8 g/d lo 6.8 g/d,and bath elongation amd elasticity are low.
Moistre regain ut standard vondiomt, is 12 pereent,and saturation regain is 30 pervent.1emp is
nrimarily used in making ropes and twine and is woven into fabries used for Back clouh acud
canva.
亚麻通常是根据其颜色来分级,它的颜色通常是偏黄的白色。但也会随沤麻工艺
的情况而变化。which is usually yellowish white 是定语从句,修饰 ite cnlors
3. It has a narrow lumen running through the cenler.
纤维中心有一个狭窄的r中腔贯穿整根纤维.
4.Jute is one of the mowt important fibers used for industrial applications.
黄麻是用干工.业制品的最重要的纤维之・-
5. Jute is highly hygroscapic in natore.
黄麻具有很好的亲水性。
Questions on Reading
1,Sketrh the ros ̄3ection of the linen sher and label its parts,
2.Explain why cellulosic fibers have a relatively high maoisture regain,
3.What are the najor processes for removing bast fibers from the stem of the plant?
16
Lesson 5 Natural Protein Fibers
-Objectives--
1. State the main types of natural protein fibers.
2.Describe the structure of wool and silk.
3.Describe the international symbols of wool fabrics.
4. State the main properties of wool and silk.
The protein filers are: naturally occurring animal products. The two major prolein fibers are
wool and silk, Wool is the fiber from the fleeceof a sheep or lamb or the hair of a fur-bearing
animal;silk is the fiber extruded by the silkwonm, in the form of a cocoon, for protection in its
pupa stage. Spider silk, which is exuruded by the spider lo form a well,somelimes is classified as
a texile fiber,
Les than 5 percent of the fibers coneumed inthe United Stales are protein libers, but their
unique properlies make them an imporlant object of study in textile science. Of the two, wool
fibers are the more widely used; they provide warmth, a pleasant hand, atractive appearance,
good absorbency and resiliency. Silk, noted forits lustrous appearance and unique hand,has
always been considered a luxury fiber .
The major source of the world's wool is Australlia. China is producing a major quantity of the
carpet-grade fiber. Several breeds of sheep are raised for their fiber. Wool from the Merino sheep
is very fine wool. The Merino fiber has a small cliameter and is the standard against which other
fibers are judged.
The wool fiber generally appears as a circularrylinder that tapers from the root to the tip. It
has a spirally crimped form. When viewed through the microscope, wool fiber shows three distinct
regions. The outer layer, which contains the scales, is callel the epidermis or culic. The
cortical cells, or cortex, just under the cuticle tmake up about 90 percent of the fiber mass and
consist of fibrils. There are two types of cortical tells, referred to as ortho- and pare-cortical cells;
the crimp, or curl. in wool fibers is contrulledl by their differences2. The central canal, or
medulla, of the fiber, which may not be visible itn photographs, allows nutrients to reach the fiber
during ith gowth phase and conlains the pigment that gives fibers their color.
Most wwol fibere have a while or creamy color,although some breeds of sheep yield brown or
black wool. Wool fiber has a natural haster depending on the lype of wool. Merino wool are
generally semidull, whereas some other varieties lhave a silky luster. Wool fiber has a density of
1.32,which makes it slightly lighter than cotlon. Woul ancl other prolein fibers with folded
17
g∶走经生_专・ 1l 2A 设3
习子三己了子夕了子
molecules aure characterized by low tenucity but higher cxternsibility3、Wool and ather hair fluers
are not very good under high stresses,Jut show large recovery from high strains.This makes8 the
wool fibers highlys resilient,En other worJk,wnwl fibery have a tendenry Ir retum excmpletely ta
their original shape after smal deformations,which is A great assvrt in apparel falrie:s.
Wool has an equilibrium moisture regain of 13?9 epending won the form and
condition.When a fiber ahaphs moisLure,heat is lberated.This literation of hea1 has plygiplogic
consergyuene. The high moisture regain properties of wnol alse xotribute partly toward i1s non-
flammability characteristics. Felting ahrinkage is an irreversible reaction that occurs whei
mois1ure,heat,and pressre are applied to the fber*.'The scales on one fiber tend to interlock
with cotiguous fibers、sD the fhers beeorne entangled xnd mAted.Wool is fairly resistanot to mild
acids,but it is pvarticularly sersitive Lo variouy indostrial chemical modification treatments bv
which wuol falric:s can be tnade shrink and felt proof.
The natural crirnp in wool is af great importance,since it results in making a yarn fuffy,
thereby trapping air in the interstices betweer 物he filer. This trapping of air helps in forming an
insulating layer, thus imparting the characteristic of warrth,
Wol is lsed primarily in apparel and hote funishings. Wool fahrics are naturally creae-
resistant,lexible,elastie,abeorbent and warm.The perormance of wcul in terts of resiliency
and thermal protection in loor roveringe and winter apparel Iradithionally has been the standard
against which othber filers are mesured. The Intermatianal Wool Secretariat ([WS)is an
internahional arganization formed to play the role of a central rescareh anrl development gToup for
the wool indluatry and to promote the use of w(Kl fiber. Thr Wool Burea in the United Stales is u
branch of the TWS. The ipternational Woolmark and Woolblead aymbols are licensed in the United
Stutes hy the: Woo] Bureau.Productls displaying thee symole must meet certain perlormance
specificalions set by the Wool Bureau.The Wodolmnark is used for products containing 100 percent
woel;the Woohlend Mark is a symtbol used for products containing at least 60 percent wool. Waol
fabrice are uged primarily in vold weather :othing. Household uses for wool include blankets,
rugs,carpets and upholstery fabrics. The two major types of wool fabrics are woolens and
worsieds. The termts are derived from their respective rethodls nf yarn manufacturing. Wolen
fabrics usually have a soft hand and a low bulk density.They are usualy rougher,coarser, and
thicker than worsted fabrics,which usually have a smooth and cerisp hand.
⑥ 硕
PUHE WO01. WOUL BLEND
'The Woolmurk is your aeurance of quality-1esterl 'Ie wewn-in Wooblend Mark Lebel is yor asuraurxe
fabricn male of the worll's les1.,.Pure Wao) of gquality-texted faubrice node predominarntly af wool.
Figpre 5.I International Symboks of,Len,All-wool Fabrics; Right,Wool BJends
128]
己伐?“ NaturalProtein Fibers
Silk is a nalural protein secretel by the larvae of several dlifferent moths. The two main
categories are cultivated silk And wild silk or tussah. Cultivaled sik is more lustrous and ligbter in
color than tus清ah."The lus1et of the fibrr is affeted ly cross-scrtional shape.Cultivated silk is off-
white to cream in calor; and tussah silk is more likely to be tan to medium hrown.Silk is one of
the strongest natural fihers.lts lry teracity is belween 2.4 g/d ard 5,I g/d,lt loses 15 1o 20
percett strength when weI.The elongstion at break of dry fibers is betwecn 10 and 25 percent
Silk has average resiliency.Wrinkles and creases do not hang out as quickly or cumplelely as in
wol,bex:ause the silk fiber doves nat cuntain the cystine linkages of wool.The standarl moistur
regain of silk is 1lpercent. It is not quite as absorbent as wool lut is more ahsorbent than olher
fibens3.High alwsorbendy makes the∶ fiber ciornfortahle Lor wear and easy to dye,
Silk is Msed for lnxury apparel,honusehold texiles and medical suture6. It is popular in men's
neckties fur its hand and drape,Silk apparel fubrics are available in a wide range of weights and
constructions.The filer is used alrne and in hlends with other fitvrx. Silk Ilerds are usuallv
made wit spun yarns.
Questions on Reading
1.What are the two major prutein fhers?
80
r...・..
乏民总么 Naural Protein -r Fibers
2. When viewed through the micmscope,what can you see from the crss-section of a wool
fiber?
3. What are the properties of silk and wool that ruke them attractive to consumers?
21
Lesson 6 Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers
- Objectives ——
1. Introduce the main types of manufactured cellulosic fibers.
2. Compare the differences among the three types of viscose rayon.
3.State the main characteristics of Tencel.
The firsl nanrrade., wr wanufartured fibers werte produced foum plant materials in an attempf lo
duplicate the prorluct of a silkworm eating mulbeerry leaves. The silkworm feeds on a cellulosic
product, but the fiber it secretes is protein. The manufactured fibers produced via chemical
digestion of cellulose are regenerated cellulose,or cellulose acetate. Today, three cellulosic fibers,
with quite differeot properties, are defined by the TFPIA, They are acetate, triacelate and rayon,
Acetate—a marufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substante is celluse acelate.
Where nol less than 92of the hydroxyl groups aare acetylaied, the term triacetate may be used as
generic description of the fiber.
Rayun——a manufactured fiber cumposed of regenerated cellukse, as well as manufaclured
fibers composed of regenerated cellulose in whieh substituents have replaced not more than I5of
the hydrogen of the hydroxyl groups.
The properties of rayon and acetate fibers arequile dilferent. Acetate is a heat-sensitive fiber
and may be considered similar to true thermoplastiic fihers in many of its properties, whereas rayon
is more similar to the natural cellulosic fibers.
Viscose rayon has three major types. They areregular rayon, high-tenax-ity rayon, and high-wet-
modulus rayon. High-tenax:ity rayon is produced byy applying additional stretch during drawing(in hot
aqueous acid), The purpxse of stretch is to increalse the degree of alignment of cellulose molecules
aloug the filyer axis2, and in adkhtion, cause an increase in the proportion of "skin lo cure"3,
 ̄
()知e re e s业_送LB
lu次・11.・!・ l3・∶
ahout13.2%.
Acetate is used in women's apparel for its hand and drape. Decaorative fabrics for the home
may contain ace1ate or blends of acetae with ullier Glers.Upholsteny fabnics. drapery fabnic,and
drapery linings ure often made of acetate,The major industrial use for acetate is in cigarette
flters.
Rayon is a more widely uued fiher than acelate. It is used alone and in blends with other
fibers Buch as palyester, acrylic,cotton,linen,ramie,acetate,nylon and woo].Blends nf two
and three fibers are common in apparel and household textiles. Rayon is used frequently as a
substitute for cotton;the relative prices of theee twn fbers 部re uflen the decidirg factor in
de:temaining which will be ued.The, price of rayon and its good moisLure ahsoxbency have rnade iu
art important fiber in the field of medical ronwovens、
8每
L4iSAt4 Manfactru:red Cellulosic .・・・.
Fibers
3....the proportion of "3kint to core"
皮层占芯层的比例
4...associativc forvrs between the molecular chains..
大分子链之间的结合力
5.The manufactured cellulosic filery tend to lose strength when wet.
人造的纤维素纤维湿态时强度下降,
6...relatively amorphous fibers absorb more moisture than crystalline fbers.
结晶度低的纤维比结晶度高的纤维吸湿性好。
Questions on Reading
1.Desrile the differences among the three majar types of reyon.
2.What ig Teacel ?
3.In whal end uses can you find rayun and acetale produets?
4.Both rayon and cotton are made of cellulose,Compare their properties and explain the
differences,
[25
Lesson 7 Synthetic Fibers(1)
Objectives.
1.State the main properties and end uses of nylon,
2. Describe the characteristics of polyester fibers.
26
Less Synthetic Fibers(1)
light can cause delerioration in fiber tensile prolperties. Nylon fibers melt when heated to high
temperatures. As a result, when nylon fabric ignites, the molten polymer fells away and thus
inhibite flame propagation. Nylon has very guoulclyeing characteristica andl may be rlyed with range
of dyestuffs.
Nylon fibers and Gilaments are used in a nunber of textile applications because of their
outslanding mechanical properiea,exeellent recotvery, and high resistance to abrasion and wear. In
addlition to apparel and house-hold textile applications, they are extensively used in carpets and
industrial applications such as tire yarns, hose, lparachutes,belting and filter fabries to narre a few.
**・Ber Merk
Imperial Chemical Industries (ICl)' purchasethe British patent rights for the fiber and began
manufacturing Terylene in England, DuPonl purchase the U.S.patent application from C.P.A.,
Ltd., and eventually received U.S. Patent 2,465,319;which allowed them to produce a fiber in
the United States. The DuPunt fiber, was introdtleed to the American press in 195L as Dacron;
commercial production of the fiber slarledl at the Kinston, North Carolina, plant in 1953. In 1958,
Easlsan Chenical Products, a division of Tensessee Eastman, introduced its new polyester fiber,
Kolel. Full-scale production of the fiber was nut begun until 1960.
Polyester fibers form the second largest groupuf fibers that are used to satisfy the demands of
the textile indualry, polyester polymers are prouluced by a condensation reaction, and the linkages
between the monowners are proluced by the formation of ester groups. There are a number of
different types of polyester polymers, but the two most important used in the production of texlile
filers are(1)polyethylene terephthalate filers(PET polyester fibers,e. g. Dacron ') and(2)
poly-L,4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate fiber(PCDT polyester fiber,e.g...Kodel).
Polyesler fibers have a smxxth surface and gererally have a circular cross section, except for
some sprcial typrs produced in trilobal form3.
Polyester is poduced in a wide range of deniers and staple with loright, semidulh, nr dull
luster. It has excellent tensile properties. The: Ienacity of fibers ranges from 2.5 to 9.5 grams per
denier. Fibers with tenacities of 2.5g/d to 3.5 g/d are used almost exclusivity for apparel.
Etongation varies with the types of fiber and ranyges from about 10 to 60 percent. In general, fibers
wilh high tenarity have low elongation, and low-slrength fibers are higher elongation. Elasticity
recovery of polyester fibers is very good. Must of the high-tenacity polyesters exhibil 100%
recovery after 2 longation. Polyester fibers halye a very low moisture regain of 0.4 t standarol
conditions. The low moisture pickup of the fibersmakes them quick-dry,hag and at times difficuh
to pmcess. Iow moisture levels are also associated with a buildup of statie eleclricity. It has a
relatively high rxefficient of friction and smooth suorface. It is a thermoplastic fiber and melts when
heated to high lemperatures. It fuses ard forms a hard bead when ignited. In all practical aenses,
polyester fiber is an inert fiber, highly resistant te Inost of the commen orgamic solvents. Polyester
fbers are hydrophobic in characler. They are therefore dyed by dyestuffs, such as disperse dyes,
37
..问三 4服加 L
1- ̄11..11311p
and so un,which arTe insoluhle in water.
Polyester fiber or fabric tmay be heat set to impart dimensional stability,which may be affecled
by any subsequent heat treatments or finishing processes. Polyes1t fjlarment vurrs ay be
texturized tn prnduce balk and stretc:h characteristics in woven or knilted fatbrivs.
Polyester fibers are used in many textile applications including carpete, upholstery,and
inclustriat uses.A vety iarge prprtion are produced in ataple form,which is Rsed in blends with
wool,cotton,viscose,rayon and linen. The inclusion of polyester fibers in blends inuproves the
wear and abrasion resistarce and the"ease of care""characteristics of fabrics.(ther areas of
polyester fber use include fillingg in pillowa and quils. Sewing thread, tire yarms,cunveyor bels,
and ropes and twine3,
Questions on Reading
1.Describe the mein characteristice of nylon.
2.List the major advantages and disadvantages of polyester/cotton blend fabrics for apparel use.
3.What will happen when the Dacron polyester is ignited?
29
Lesson 8 Synthetic Fibers(2)
Objectives —
1.Distinguish the difference between the acrylic fiber and modacrylic fiber.
2.Describe the main properties and end uses of aramid fiber.
3.Stete the end uses of spandex.
“少华::岂、?:
Polyacrylie fiber and polyester fihers wer: develnped about the same tine, and th:
comrvercital levelopnent n both was postponed by World War Ⅱ.DuPont's syntheeis of acrytic
fiber evolved from ihe fundarnenlai research of Dr.Carothers.Twa dlistinct generic groups of fbers
luas:rd on acrylonitrile chemie1ry are definedl by the TFPIA.
1. Acryvic Fiber
Aryli— ranufactured fiher in which the: fiber-fomming substance is any long-chain synthetic
polyrer coniposeal nf at last 85 pcrcent be weight of acrylonitrile units'.
Acrylie fbems have medium tenacity and relatively high elorugation and good recovery from
Small extensions.They have low moisture regait varying [rom t.0? 3.0??Acrylic fibers melt
an heating anl generally exhibit a mndlerate ane propagation rate.They have moderate resistance
to alkalies and acids and excellent resistance to sunligh1.
Acrylic fibers are: user ex1ensivcly in uarpets,furnishing fabrics,apparel(woven and knit
falbrics),
2.Modacrylic Fiber
Modacrylic fiher is defitted by the TFPIA as tollow8;
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer
comp6ed of less than 85 pereent but at least 35 percent by weigh of acrylonitrile units.
From its definiion,it is upparent that Tuodacrylics are modified acrylic ihers.Whereus in
acrylic fibers up to 15 perent of a comonormer or other materials may be added ta aerylonitrile, in
moclaerylic:s the cortonomer may be the major constituent.
Modlacrylic filbers are weaker than e:rylics,although stronger than acetates. Abraeio:1
30]
盼业 _Symthetic Fibers(2)
Tresistance is very low.They have gGud resistanve t organic solvnts,alhongh they do disolve in
acetone.Weak akalies and atzids do not aflect the lihker.Its sunlight resistance is poor.
Bevrause of their sx:ellent flame resiatanve characteristics,hey are used in drapery and
uphalstery materiat. They also find use in ・arputs because of their good resilienry and mt anu stain
re.sistanc.
“::下::公心闩二冯心””
PVC flers are smoth anti have circular crxs sections. They have good tensile properties,
and not affected by acidk or alkali and generally have exeellent resistatce to a wide renge of
chemic・als2.lhese fibers are used in a variety of textile applications.However,they find their
properties expoited tmost usefolly in industral pses such as lter fabries,wariing,tarpaulins,
glider boats,etce. PVC fibers are alse used in blends with wool,cptton,rayon,and nylon for
apyarel aplications.
“亿。、‘涵“己、心心邮
They have excellent tensile properties. These fbers heve a armwoth surface,and generally
huve a l shape cross-sestion with a flattened tube appearanee、The latter characteristic makes
them highly flexible,which results in a beter feel and handle of fabrice.These fihers are Dsed in
all sorts nf apparel applications such a suit interlinings,gloves,sock分,and inirmate garraents.
辽世一凹需召少
The TEPIA defines olefin as lollows:
A manufaretured fiber in whieh the iber-forming substance is ary long-chain synthetie polyruer
composed of at least 85 percent by weight of ethylene,propylene,or other olefin units.
-
1.Potiyethylene Fiber5
Because af higher crystallinity,high-density polyethylene fibers have a ruch higher tensile
strength,stiffness,and higher aoft∶ning point2compared to the low-cdensity polypropylene fbers,
Nevertheless,they still ean not be used efeetively for general textile applications because of their
low rnelting point,poor resilince and dyeing characteristices',However,becaue of their strength,
rot rsistance,and inertness to chemicals and light, polyethylene fbers are used extensively in
mrine applcations,
2.Polypropylene
Palypropylene fibers have exeellent processing behavior because of their high fiher-to-fber
eoefficient of friction and good crimp retention properties. Polypropylene ibers have a greater
cuvering power,because of their low sypecific gravily,than any other textile fiber. They have
excell-nt arasion resistance and lex resislance.Above all,polypropylene fber is the cheapes1 of
81
入径”段。长阻‘“尚
式端引 白立
al the eynhetic fibers. Polypropylene ftbers are extensively usexd in blenke4s. upholstery and
carpets.They are also used in the manufacture of fishnels,traw]s ans lines.'They are ued in
apparel application either in 100pure form or in hlends with rayo4.
””?“。“,
Spandex is defined by the TFPIA as follows;
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a lowg-chain synthetie pxlymer
comprised of at least 85 per:ent by weight sgrnenled pulyorethane.
DuPorl inlroduced e new stretch fiber in 1958.The name[ycr was given to the filber in late
1959,and plans were announced for volume production. In the Rame Year, U.S. Rubber
introudluced its new elatstorner,Vyrene;proluctiaon of that 6ber ceased in the mid-1970s.'Today,
the only producers of spandex fibers in the Uniterl States are the DuPort and Globe Manufacturing.
The name Lycra is still used for [uPont's fberT; Clospan is the name: of the Globe fber.
Spandex fibers are gcnerally stronger than ordinary nubber filaments. The tenarity of these
fibers varies in the range of 0.55g/d-1.0g/d as compared to 0.25g/d for natural rubber. Their
breaking elongation may vary up to 700?nd they dempnstrate exceilent recovery behavior.
lhey have very low moisture regain,which may vary from 1.0t,1.3?pandex fbers have a
good resistance to acids, alkalies,and most comrnon chericals.
Spandex fibers are used in 移wimwear,foundalinn garments,support hoxiery,8ock 1aps,
elastic welbing for wainstbands、and other similar uses. There is a greut leal of interest in the use
cof spandex ir1 activr-aportswear fabrie.
?己
Ararnid is another type of polyamide fibers. In this type of fbers,at least 85of the armide
linkage结 are attached directly to two arornatic ringe.
The two major types of aramid fbexre are Nomex and Kevlar.The production of aramid filers
u5es a solvent spinning process.
The strength and heal resiatance of the ararmid fibes are the propertiee of majar interest lo
vonsumers of these fihers. Nomex flament hae a tenacity of 5.3g/d wthen dry and 4.Ig/d when
wet.Kevlar is the strongest of the fibers,with a tenacity of 22g/d. Iit is approxirmately ive imes
stronger than a steel wire of the sare weight,and mure than Iwice as srong a high-tena(ty
industrial nylon,polyester,or ober glass.At terpw;raturew alwve 370℃ Nomex degrades,the
behavior of Kevlar is similar.
The ahove combination of properties makes theAe flet particularly suited for end-us
appliculione euch a6 hot air flration, protective clothing,military applications (helmets anl
bullet-proof vests),and stretural supports far aircrafts and loxts.OIher uses ir:lude ropes and
:ables, mechanical ruber goods,and marine xnd sporting goodls equipment.
2
6S4;…、 Syntheric Fibers(2)
“二““品
There are various other types o mun-murle fbers such as glase,c传eramie∶,metallic, and
carbor,incluling such gsneri・types a novaloid(kynol),anidex,nytrill,aelon,ele,that are
currently being manufarctured,
83
入芯”“。叭除,房蕲
・×・1、1;1c.
2....nol uffected by acids or alkali and generally have excelent resistance to a wide range of
chemicals.
耐酸耐碱,并能抵抗大部分的化学品;
3.softening point
软化点
4. low meliny point,poor resilience and dyeing characteristics
熔点较低,弹性较差,染色性较差
Questions on Reading
1.Dexs'cile the main properties of acrylic fbers.
2.Relatively smuall amounts nf spandex yurns interlacer with yarns made from other fibers
allow woven ciokhs to 时tret∶h.Give three exmplea of appare】 in which atretch woven eloth
woul h: aseful].
4
LessOn 9 Classification of Yarns
Objactives-
1.Define the terms: Yarn, spun varn, novelty varn.
2.Explain the four basic yarn-manufecturing systems.
3.State the main types of novelty yarn.
4.Distinguish the difference between high-bulk yarn and stretch yarn.
185
中国家庭健康通19mm/100ml
However, staple yarns are not as slrong or as unform as continuous-filament yarns of eypal linear
rlensity.
2. Continvous-filament Yams
In the manufacture of man-made filaments, asolution is fored througth very fine holes of a
spinneret, at whieh point the solution by roagulation, evaporation, or cooling. Usaialy the mamber
of holes in the spinnerel determines the numberof filament in the yarm. Also, the size of each hole
and the amounl of drawing,if any,tleterminethe diameter of each filamenL As the individual
filaments solidify, they are brought together withor without slight twisl or enlanglement to form a
contimucns-filamcnt yarn.
Conlinuous-filament yans in fabric form usually have excellent strength and uniformity. As
indicated by the fine monofilamenl yams that have found commercial acceptance, continuons-
filament yams can be made much finer in linear desity and diameter than staple yarns.
3. Novelly Yarns
Elfect threacls or novelty yamis are designed or decorative rather than functional purposes.
Very seldom is a fabric composed entirely from novelty yarn, except possibly in drapery yarns are
basically either of a fancy effect or metallic lype2. Combination yarns are used quite often to obtain
the desired effect.
There soe varieties of novelty yame, such as slub yarn, spiral yam, rub(knot )yarh, lop
yam, core yarn and corc-spun yarn. Sluh yarnscontain partially twisted, bulky, fluffy regions
called slubs, which are spaced at irregular interyals throughout their length'. These bulky portious
of the yarn break up the smooth surface. Ornamental shading provides eye appeal, and the fluffy
yarns prochice a pleasant tactile sensativn. Plying together two yarns of different diameter, color,
filxer type, or luster can proxluce spiral yarns, Ljsually spiral yarns consist of a heavy, spun yarn,
called a fancy, wrapped around a fine, highly twisted core. Nub yarns are produced by winding a
fine yarn many times around the same position of a heavier core. The core yarn is then moved
forward and another knot is formed. The effect nay be varied by using more than one yarn, usually
of different color and texture,to form alternatingspots of color along the yarn. The loop yams have
a more complex structure than the preceding yarns. They require a base or core yarn around which
the fancy or effeet yarn is wrapped. The fancy yam is secured to tbe core by a binder. A core yarn
is produced by wrapping one yarn around another so that the ouler yarn complely covers the
cenlers strand. And in core-spun yarns a solid elastic core, usually spandex, is complelely
encased in spun staple fibers.
Metallic novelty yarns are characterized by aglittering appearance and a rectangular cross-
sectioxial shape. Durability is added to the metallie yarn by protecting with a transparent film, the
aluminom foil or metallized material that produces the glittering effect. Metlon, acetate or Mylar
Insetallic yams are examples of durable glossy yarns used for decoration designs.
36
I C*SC" Classification of Yarns
4. Special End-use Yarns
Imlustrial design repirements of special end-use yarns are purely functional in character.
These yarns are rngineered for predictable perfornance under specific conrlitions. Many industrial
yams do wot have the visual and tactile qualities of yarns designed for apparel or home-furnishing
applications. Examples of yarns that are enginecred for a specific eul-use arr; lire coml, twine,
sewing thread, nubber or elastie threads, ashestOs athl glach yarns, cure-spun yarns, wire yarn,
heavy monofilaments,and split-film yarns.
5.High-bulk Yarns
A high-bulk yarn is a staple or continuous-lilarnent yaro that has a normal extensibility but an
uruusually high degree of softness or fullness. These yaris retaio their bulkiness under both relaxed
and stressed conditions. Creal covering power with little weight is possible in fabric composed of
bigh-bulk yams.
Some high-lulk yaros are made on staple system from thermoplostic fibers that shrink
differemtially in treated yarn form. The differencein shrinkage results in massive bulking of fiber
segments between points of entanglement in the yam sinucture. Coninuous-filamenl yarns van
acquire substantial bulkitess in the same manner or by the creation of nonlinearity and by loop
formation in the creation of wonlinearity and by entrapping the loops with twist?. This is commonly
referred to aa jet stream texturizing,beeause a stleam of air or steam is used to create nonlinearity
in the filaments. Examples of high-bulk structures can be made from the texturixed rontinuous-
filament yarns;combination yarns can also he texturized with differential bulk elfecls.
6.Stretch Yarns
Texlured yarns that have been programmed forextraordinary extensibility are known as stretch
yarns. Most streich yarms ean be extended from pne and one-half to twice their normal or reluxed
length; some can be extended up to three or four multiples of their relaxed length. These
structures are not only highly extensible but highly elastic as well. The term highly elestie is uexl
here to suggest a quick and practically complete recavery toward origimal yam geometry or
configuration after substamtial extension in the direction of the yarn axis.
In their relaxel state, stretch yams resemble high-bulk yams. On extension of the stretch
yarns, however, the bulkiness is considerably reduced. At full extension, the stretch yarn
resembles an ordinary eontinuous-filament yarn, rombination or staple yarn, whichever may be the
parent yarw wr precursor*. The methods of inducing stretch and the degree and character of stretch
vary cunsiderally among these yane, Stretch yams should not be confused with ruber or
elastomeric fiber yarns; thry are normally used in power strelch fabries where more than a subtle
pressure in required. Touly elastomeric yams ape not as widely applicable as stretch yams and
therefore are considerexl to be speeial end-use yarns.
87
方 2! 每 .4医让
、U民P-.43ii∶U
Questions on Reading
1.Talk about the elassification af yarns.
2. What is he main diference between bhigh-hulk yam and stretch yarm?
39
Lesson 10 Yarn Size and Yarn Twist
: Objectives-
1.Define the terms: denier, tex, yarn count.
2.State the meaning of twist direction.
:.i?t :/+
Denier,tex and other related terms are alsw used tn denote the yarn numbering systerts that
deseribe the lineur density of yarns. These yam-nurmbering systems have heen developeal l,
desx:ribe the relative size,or finenes,of a yam asmathematical relationship between the lengt
af a stranId]of yarn and its riss. The mathematical equalion used to calculate yarn number may uBe
length as a conslant,making it a direct numbering syatem,or it may use mass as a constant,
produeing an indirect yarn number.
In dircel yarn numhering syslem,such as the denier snd tex syutets, the namerical solutian
to the equation increases as the yarn gets thicker. Thus,there is a direct relationahip between yarn
nunher and yam size. The length of material remains constant and the mass changes."Ihe
vnstant length usedl in the denier system is 9,000 meters;in the tex system,it is 1,000 meters;if
9,000 meters of a yarn weigh9 grams, it isa 9-denier or 1-tex yam;if 1,000 meters of it weighs
9 grams,it is a 9-tex or an 81-denier yam.
Joth ASTM and the Initernational Standarls Organization(ISO)' have recommended the tex
system as the standard yurt numbering system. A major rason for its adoplinn is the ease with
which yarn numhers can he calculated by simply neaauring a length of yarn and then carefully
weiglng it.
The aduption of a universul yarn numbering sysem would simplify the description of such
properties as strength and cost. It wnld hecorne unnecesary to convert yarn-breaking strength in
pounds t grams per denier in order to compare data colleted by two different systems',
Manufaclurers could simplify the costing of prnduction operaLions if the 8same systen of fiber and
yarn numbering were used for all operations.
Jn indirvet yarn numbering system,there is an inverse relationship between yam number and
the finencss of the yarn.The mass of the yari reinains constant and the length varies,so,as the
diameler of the: yam increases,the yarn number deereaes. Many indirect yarn-numbering systems
are in use throughout the world. 'The c:olton,woolen,and worsted systems are ihe three used ms
40
二它切已 Yar0 Size and Yam Twist
frequently irn the Cnited States.
Traditionally,the coton system was used to deseribe the yarns produceu on shonrt-staple
cntou spinning machinery,and the woolen ard worsted system》 were used to tlescribe yanis apun
on long-staple wool spinring machinery.Txday,the cotlon system is used lo describe yams spun
on) other systems as well,because manufucturees'familiarity fwith the systen hus preconditionted
the eoHlcept wf a specific size as8ociated with a cotton yarn number.
The term yarn count is often used instead of the term yarn number in inlire:t yurn numbering
systens'.Cotton-count ol yarns appears in thetextile literature。abbreviated as Ve(fnr "number,
English")or,less frequenily,e:(for*cotton count")The rntton rount is the number of 84O-
vud hanks that weigh a pound.
A hank is a skein o yar; an 84A-yari coton hank is a skein of yarn measuring 840 yards.
If LO hank, of yarn(8,400 yarda)weigh 1 pound,the yart! cxount is 10. The tnost common way to
write this iw"10 Ne", indicating the count of the yam and the system uscl ty deternine the
COwint.
The more hanks it takes to wesigh a pound,the higher the yarn count and the finer the yarn.
High counts in cotton yams indicate fine yarns;low couns indlicate coarse yan!.
The coxnt of yarns spun on a long-staple systemn may be desigated by a varicty of systems.
Two of the mOt common are the worted count and the woolen run,hasver on S60-yard and 1.600-
yard hankis,rtesprexcively,The mas in each t∶湖se is 】 pwound.
A single-ply,or singles、yarn is designated with a slash rark and a numeral ane(/I)or the
yarn Imlwr and the letter"s".Thus,either"20/1" or"20s"couid be used to refer to a 20
coton-count singles Farn.A two-ply yamn is designated by"/2",A 60/3 Ne sewing thread ix a
yar made by conulining three 60-count coton plies.f the three-ply yarm were reasured and
weighed as a single yarn,it weuld appear to be a 20 Ne yarn.
“了“之予子
Filers are u9ually twisted together by the proce88 of spinring lo produce a yan thal wil]
withstand the rigor of wcaving or knitting,The direction in which the fhers are twisted and the;
amwunt of twist inserted affet the properties of yarns and he prnuluets that can be made froun the
yars. Twist affects strength,tuster,abrasion resislance,hand,absbrtbeney and lexibility.
Twist is inserted by rotating fiber strands in either a clkkwise or counterclnckwise dir-etian.
The direction af twist is defined by the letter ¥ or2.An S-twist yarn is one in which the spiral of
the yarn is parallel to the center bar of the letter S,likewise for a Z-Lwist yarn.A epindle rutating
countercloxkwise produces an S 1wist;a spindle rotating clockwise produ:rf a Z twisl.Most yanis
spu1e un cvlton systems bave a 2 twist.
he amount of Lwist iri a yaru is expressed es turns per incclt(ypi)ofyart length. Yarns tha1
have low levels of twist are softer and have more-lof1,or bulk; they are usually weaker than yan)s
with more twist,In general,the shorter the fiber being spun,the more twist is reguired to give
十忆
入粘郸长莴路 “了己己
strength.At some point,however,the optimum twist wi] have been ineerted,ard additional uTns
will decrease the strength of the yarn、Past the opiimum,the fibers in the yarn are pote
perperdlicular than parallel to the length of the yarn.
4e
习伐另业 Yamm Size and Yarn Twist
Questions on Reading
1. How to decided the atmount of twist to be aded io the yarn?
2. What is the standard yam numbering systen according to [SO?
岔
Lesson 11 Opening and Cleaning
- Objectives
1.State the functons of the opening and cleaning process.
2.Understand the principle of opening and cleaning.
Staple fibers arive at a yarn mill in large boxes or bales. In the cotton bale,fibers are
intermingled with impurities that must be remived. The coton has to be opened or lonsenerl to
smll tufts or even lo a fibrous stage so that thc exposed foreign particles can be separated.The
opening and cleamning acticons are closely relatrd,and good openingis,therefore,a prereuigite for
efficient cleaning. 'The impurities that havc to be removed are dnst, sand, seed partiles,
fragments of leaf stems,and motes. Most of these can be rernoved by te intcraction of differently
designed beaters and grid bars. The beaters open the coton by pulling tufts irom the leed rolls ur
by the spikes of counterotting hxc:aters.The opened ufts are then thrown against grid bars,wich
retain the fbers but allow the inpurities to fall tbrough the spac:es between the bars'.Beatery and
grid brs are the tnain elements of the opening and eleaning machines.
In modern cotton shtes,fbets pass automatically hr0ugh all processes up to ard jncluding
picking—known as scutching in Creat Brituin—2flow-reguiating cevices being emp】oyed in hopper-
feeding mechanismns placw:d al variouI9 points in the weqpuerce of opening and eleaning tachine3.
Mixing takes place in a fortuifons and randon way in the hopper-feeders,which fed different
setions,装nd in the uir slreams transferring fibers frorm one section lo another.The use of a
number of hiending huppcr-bale-openers,each fecding the same feed latice and each being
supplied from a large nuniber of bules rerpresentative of the blenl in process,ensures that coton
frormn a large nunber of bales is leing mixed at any one tirne.
Opening is done mechanically by tserahbling the fbers in a thick wad or lap and feeding them
forward by fed nllers In a beater revolvitg at high speed. Beaters vary in type, but the principle
of operalion is that they strike he talerial from the feed roller in amall tufts33.This releases
particles of impurity,which either fall out or are thrswn out by centrifugal frve through a series of
clnsely spaced grid bear urrunding the heater*.'This grid prevents the majority of flers from
falling out,and they are carried in an air stram to the nexl machine,where they tay be
reasernbled for a repvetition of the proute;opening and cleaning is done in slgtes,wilh the tufts
beirg hroken up into smalle;r and emaller units*.
45
子己 and Ceaning
In order that beaters reduce the feed to small tufts,the feed rollers muat grip the brous feed
very securely; this serves to cnnsalidate the material inlo more solid mass and emled the Irash
mure securely in il.Tlis lefeats the object of the process and also breaks up the britle vegetable
maLerial into smaller partic:les,making it even nyore difficult to renove.
Receht opening machines avoid compreseing the }urtly opened material. One resent machine.
the s1epy opener,has a Reries of six bea1ers arranguxd saccessively un ant inelined plane at an angle
f 45°.
The material is fexl in at the battom, is token across grid bars by the first beater,and
encounters the second beater. As 1he. mntions of he twu beaters are opposed,the material is bealea
and agitatedl between thein,dirt falls ol through the grid, and the fibers pass upward t, the
suceeeding beater^.Such a machine is said to remove 35?5of the impurities,A imilar
actiun takes place in the oluer lypes of conical beaters,in which the material is treated letween
beaters in a conical arangement of grid bars and an upward air stream carries away opemed cotton
that has beeome buoyant. In another modern machine,rllers feed material in a thin layer; this is
genly opened by a revolving beater and picked up by an air stream rnoving at high velocity intoa
tajering channel that is thexa turned shaply througl an angle.At the outside of the bend is an
opening,through which the hcavicr purticles are spal while the more bunyant fibers turn the cornet
with the air strean which is removel by a fan.
In latter machine,it is clear that some heavier unopened partieles of material may le thrown
out with the trash, and this is genetally nue of all cleaning devires;speeds,setting of critical
parts,positionitg ef parts,and speeds of air strcamn have to be adjusled tn siike a vmpromise
between the umount if traush remavef and tlte axnount of useful fiber lest at each stage.At to pwint
can trash be: removed without forfeiting socne filher.
Tbe beter qpuality xttons contain less trnsh and therefore need les cleaning. This is
convenient,since the filers are longer and fther and wnuld suffer from severe treatment; this is
also true of man-made ibers.Trends in pickers have therefore been towards types of beater with
gcntler actions,for example,the Kirschner beater,for use with the fiber,longer fiher.
Modern trend: arc loward rore automation, and first prores, in which the bales werc
formerly lorn apart hy handl so tbat slabs of fihber were presented to the hale openers,is now being
meshanized by a type of machine on,or in,which the bale ie placed and shredded into tuft that
are fes intn tbe opening line'.The xmallest units handled are therefnre balex. At the other nrl of
the opening process, there is a trend towards the elimination of lap formation and the feeding of the
card direculy by a specialized hopper known as chute feed. Apart fror cutting aut manuel
haulling,this alsu avoids any dificulies in lap formnation;on the other hand,it eliminates a
quality-control point.The picker(scutcher) made a lap of a given length that was weighed,and
only thoser which were produced within certain weight toleranees were passel furward;the ouler
were returned to the mixing at the beginning of the opening line8. This ensured relatively even
feed to the cards with sorte assurance of constant average linear density of card sliver. With ihe
4
八了“。“斥““详
1c:>:l:24l :1
adoption of chute feels this possibility is now absent and lhe monitoring of card sliver with
autoleveling devices at the first drawframe is easential.
46
己影予己 (]pening, and Cleaning
5.This grid prevent the majoarity of libers fmm falling wnt,and they are earried in an air
slream to the next machinc,whHre they may be reassembled for a repetition o the process;
opening and eleaning is done in stages,wih the tufts being broken up into smaller and
smaller units.
尘格能阻止大部分纤维掉下大,这些纤维被^i流带到下一台机器,然后重新集中起来
进行重复的程序;通过各阶段的开松和除杂,纤维块变得越来越小、 句中 they 指的
是 flerS。
6.As the motions of the two beaters are opposed,the naterial is beaten and agitated between
them,dirt falls out through the grid, and the fibers pass upward 1o the succeeding bea1er.
由于两打手的运动相反,纤维材料在它们之间受到打击,杂质穿过尘格落出去,而纤
维被运送到后面的打手、as的用法很多,在句中是"由于"的意思。
7...first process,in which the bales were formedy Lorn apart by hand so that slals of fiber
were presertel to tue: bale: openers,is nuw being mechanized by a type of machine on,or
in,which the bale is plxced and sreded int tufts that ure fed] inus the opening line.
本句中含两个非限制性定语从句,主句是 frst proxcess is rnow being mechanized by a
type of machine。两个定语从句分别修饰主语 process 和宾语 machine,可单独成句翻
译。
8....and only those which were produced within certain weight lolerances were pused
forward; the others were returned to the mixing at the beginniog of the opening line.
…・只有在・定重量误差内的棉卷才能通过,其他的返回到开清棉生产线的起点。
Questions on Reading
1.What are the 的ain function of opening and eleaning prucess?
2. What is the product of the opebing and cleaning prucess?
47
Lesson 12 Carding
・Objectives-
1,State the main functions of carding process.
2.Explain the principle of combing action.
3.Describe the main structure of carding machine,
The filers from blendling and opening are <deivered 1o the card in the form of a picker lap or
fron? a chate-fed hopper.Tbey are randorly arranged arwd mav cwntain trash und short fibers that
are nut suitable for further prox:essing.The carting prmcess c;omverts the lap lo a sliver,or strand of
fibera,of about one hundredth of the weight per yurd of the lap,During carding,the fibers are
well separated by the action of wire points,and a high proportion of the trash is rejected,togethu:r
with sope goud lint,
The lap from the sxuLcher is placed upon he lap mllers,which revolve slowly at lhe sarne
sufaces sp:ed a the luted fed roller'. This roller projy:ets the coton fonwardl over the lip of the
dish feed plate into the arc of the take-in.
The take-in is a cvlinder of 9 in.to 10 in.djameter,clothed with saw-Louhed"fillet"wound
helically on tn its surface:it is thus effectively covered with sharp projextions at ahoul 1/4 in.
rcumferenial spacing anl 1/8 in. widthwise spacing. The surfate speed of the taker-in is of the
order of l,000 f./min. and the fringe of cotton receives an intensive"combing"action2at the
face of the dish feed plate which results in ruch of the solid matter being knocked out, and in tuft
cf fber lking carried down and forwad by the filet,aver the mote knives,and over ihe
undercasing.
The"comibing" action referred to is an exceedingly severe treatment which should not be
confused with corhing proper as performed in the comber at a later stage in the case! of fine yarts.
Considerable darmuge is tne al the taker-in as repards fber breukage,tut in return at this
parirular point a greater degree of trash removal oiurs here than at any other single cleaning
proces in thw: mill.
The tufts of filxer on the taker-in points are stripped by the eyliuder which is clothed with wire
poinled fille1,'This fillet consists uf a bIrip of rubher bonded fabric,I in. ̄1.5 in,wide into
which have been inserted U-shaped wire sfaples',The staples are bent to incline the points in the
directiot of roLation and the wires are grounl n tfhe hack 1o give a sharp point 1o the leading edge.
载8
L…36…1・・ Carding ]
The rylinder,of 50 in.diameter{ widhh 38 in,-45 in.)bas a snface speed of abou
2,200ft./min.,which is in excess of that of the 1aker-in.The inclinaticn of the points of each
being in the direclion uf notion enables the cylinder to strip the fibers fromn the taker-in,and thewe
are carried upwanl to be arded by 1he jat9.
The flats are elthed with flle1 of a similar kind to that on the cylinler ard the pwoints are
inelined in oppositinn to those on the cylinuur'*.
The coton is teased by this artion and transference of fber uccurs betwec:n the 1wo sufaces.
The fla1 becfmses laaded with fber which contairvs a higher Urasf roDtert than that whch passes
forward with the cylinder <tue tn the certrifugal xctiom(of about 20 g)and the "hel and toe."
eting:3 the"heel"of the flat is set to 5 or 7 thousandths of an inch 1o the: cylinder,and the
enty,or "toe" setting rxeveedls this by about 30 in.-1,000 in.
There ar abaut 40 flats working with the eyirnder ouit of a total nutnber of abau1 110.which
ars: traversed slowly at 2 in,lo 3 in. tw:r minut on a moving chain lo enahl theru lto be cleaned
by a coumb and passed eventually to the eylinder again.'The coton is remwced from the eylinder by
the dualfer whicb has similar clothing with points jn opposition to he cylinler and ac;tion is itsef
similar to carding.The doffer is about 24 in. diameter and revolves at 10 r.p. t to 16 r,p. m.
The essential difference between the doffer uction and that of the fats can be described briely
as follows; the rate of the flver accumulation by card surfacesis high at ihe sart and texlines
toward wome saturation value.Coequrntly,the flats,being int working position for a relatively
lang periol(20 mins.)become [oarled almost to"saturation".They are,however,traversed
slowly and the fiber extructed (us waste)is comparatively srall. The dofftr urface speed is,on
the (xher hand,Telatively high(ebout 80 f. per min.)and since is working zone is a small one
in the proximity of the eylinder,the rale: of accumulation is hig.The loading is light but its rapid
rernoval uccounts for ahunt 95 percent of the lap Leing converted tn sliver; the waste removext as
"flat strin"is about 2,5 perceⅢl,The remaining Jobs of 2.5 perXnt is 自ude up of other wastes
viz. tuker-in fly,cylinder fly,cylinder strip,and doffer strip.
The cotton from the doffer is removed, by the osceillating comb,As a fine web of intertwined
fibers which is drown together in a condensing trumpet and,by rieans of the rotating coiler,is
placed in a slowly revolving can in approximately hypocycloidal coils.
50
己引义 Carding
、:自:,
Questions on Reading
I. What are the mair funclions of the carling process?
2.Deseribe the main stnucture of carding machine?
3.Whal is the produet of the carding proess?
5厂
Lesson 13 The Combing Process
- Objectives —
1.State the main function of the combing process.
2.Define the term noil.
For high-quality yarns of superior evenness, ssmoothness, firieness, and strength, fibers are
txsmbed as well as carcled. A common procedure is to combine 48 slivers from breaker drawing to
form a lap for the comber. The 30-pound lapsare moved to the comber, where fine metal wires
clean out the remaining short fibers and other inopurities. The combed fiber is condenserl into a
combed slivey.
The combing process consists of combing a fringe by the 17(or more) rows of needlos of a
rotating comb cylinder, and the withdrawal of Lhe fibers of this fringe from the lap through the
needles of a stationary top comb.
Feeding is done by pressing a single roller against the nipper plate'. There is a ratchel gear
on the end of the roller, which is advanced each nip by a pawl motion'. In some comhs, the
number of teeth which the pawl picks may le valried while, in other cases, there are ratchet gears
with different mumbers of teeth、These arrangements make it possible lo feed from 0. I inch to 0.3
inch per nip. Approximately,one-quarter of an inch fed per nip is quite common. The motion of
the nippers(forward end backward) operates the pawl and ratchet grar. The nippers relain the
general form of the older nippers, although thelre has been some modification of the lip of the
nipper plate and the shape of the lower edge ofthe nipper knife,making it possible to grip the
cotton closer to the needles of the half-lap. Botlh nippers are attached to the nipper frame and
swing with it. The nipper knife does the opening and closing and is responsible for gripping the
fibers of the lap during combing. All the new combs have the nipper frames hung from above the
working zone. Some builders hang the nippers from one point, while others hang them two points.
ln either case,the design is such that,as the niippers swing to the back position, they hold the
fibers in the proper position for combing’.Whenthe nippers swing forward, they bring the fibers
into line with the bile of the detaching rollers.
The swing motion for the nippers cither origirates at the cylinder shaft, or is in time with it.
The motion may originate with an eccentric ora cam. The final result is to move the nippers
backwarl and forward one carmplete motion for cvery revolution of the rylinder. The drive is
59
The Combing Process
arranged so that the timing of the nipper swing may le adjusted to agree with the cylinder combing
action.
The position through which the wippers swing is adjustable,so thet they may bring the fibers to
exactly the right pusition, at the detaching rollel08, I0 remove the percentage of noils desired. This
part of swinging nipper design is very importanlI because it controls the minimum length of fiber
allowed to pass on into the combed sliver. Thetheory is that only fibers long enoagh to bridge the
gap between the nippers and the detaching rollers will go imto the sliver. All fibers mo short Io
bridge this gap should go into the noils. As the nippers swing is adjustable, the closeness of
approach to the detaching rollers may be varied tto control the length of fibers permitted io pass into
the combed web and sliver2.
The ability of the swinging nippers to carry thee combed fibers to the bite of detaching rollers
makes it unnecessary to use a segment con the cylinder as a device for delaching. The segment
serves to balance the half-lap and to prevent the. fringe from dropping too low for the bits of the
detaching mllers. Some of the new cylinders have more bars with closely spaced needles Ihan on
the ulder models. This give a considerable incyrease in the total number of needles, which pass
through the Iriruge and is intended to increase the combing ability.
On the early combs, the back top detaching rollers was arranged to rock beckward during
eylinder combing, so that the previously detached fibers would he directed downward when moved
backward. This was done to make as perfect a piecing as possible. Some of the new combs have
been built with stationary top rollers. However,. all the new conibs reciprocate both lines of
detaching rollers and all move greater distances both backward and forward than did the old
combs. The greater Jength detached per nip in the combs is one of the important faetors in making
it possible to produce a greater poundage per hour.
The top romb is a thin metal bar on which is:soldered a row of fine, closely spaced needles,
usually sixty-four per inch3. The work of top conll is to clean and straighten the ends of the fibers
held in the nippers and to hold back short fibers, which might be pulled along by adjacent long
fibers. The top comb is so located that the eylinder needles do not touch uhe needles bul so that,
when the rippers are open, the needles are directly in the path of the cotton being detached. The
fibers are drawn through the top comb hy the detaching rolers. The top comb is adjusted
vertically,horizontally,and for angle°.
5年
1T2*Sue The Combing Proce5s
Questions on Reading
1. What are. the main functians of the cotaling proce8s?
2.Whal is the pr0duet of the counbing proccss?
3.What is noil?
55
LesSom 14 Drawing
Objectivas -
1.State the objects of the drawing process.
2.Understand the principle of drawing.
The drawing frame is the machine immedia1ely following the card(except where combing is
performed)and its ohjeets are(1)to straighten the fibers along lines parallel to the length axis of
the roving by drafing,and(2) Lo imprave the uniformity of weight per unit length by doubling,
From the considerution of ane pair of rollets extrac:ting fhers presented by a rore slowly revolving
pair,it follows that a s1raightening prnccas cnsures. The attenation{bhy trafting) which is
necessury to achieve the rexuired parallel orler Lto make the sirand wilable for yart making is
consjderable and it is pverhape apl at this juncture 1o cpnheider sotme typical hank figures in
discNEssing the q1antitxtive aspeu:ts of this prolblem
The earl sliver, 2s already discussed, contains fbers,which are contorted to a shape
umsuitabte for drafting2.And the drating of a single sliver of this type in the rolle system of the
slubbing frame would prouce an exe:eelingly irregular strand or roving.
Further drafting in the roving and ring frames introduces further wave-form irregularites and
the aystem would be imJracticalb]e.At somie stuge,te inegularities would be such thaL the 1bin
places would break and the frequency of breakages would make the system uneconomic, and the
yarn,if prnxluced,would be so irregular as to be useless.Moreover,the variability af the rard
sliver aver long lengths prevents the maintenance of an accurate yarL cunt.Two or more drawing
frame pussage are therefore: interposed belween the card and the slubing frarne specifically to
straightn the flers by drafing,and to reduce the long wave ireglarities of the card sliver by
doubling six slivers togethe:r at each pasage.
To se hrw tlis reduclion come6 aboul,suppose that there are; six card slivers,each of which
is perlectly even within itself,so thuat it would give a horizontal straight line as a regularity traee,
and that the mean weight per yard of all the card slivers which are heing produced is 80 gains,
but that the weighls of the slivers in individual cans are nat exactly 80 but vary somewhat on either
side of this figure,so thal the six slivers might,for uxumplo,have weights per yard of 78,79,80,
84,83 and 85 grains.If one yard of each of these slivers is fed to a drawframe wih a dlraft of 6,
the total weight of the stiver delivered will be the sum of he alyove weights,i.e.,485 grains,but
50
L:k・・ Drawing
its length will be 6 yands and its weight per yard 485/6=81 grains,which is much choser to the
mean of all the card slivers than all except two of the six original slivers.A litle consideration will
ghow that this is not peculiar to the particular figurea Iaken as an example,but must hoppen nearly
every time slivers are doulled. The worst thal can happen i that six slivera all of the maximum
weight(say 85)would pas through the drawframe(or six of the minimur weight); the rcsulling
sliver would then weigh 85 grains per yard and we should he no worse off than we were hefore te
douhling.But this is likely to happen only very seldom,nearly alwnys some heavy and some light
or at least medium slivers will be combined,and the resulting sliver will gave a weight per yard
nearer to the mean*.
Acording to this ArgumuenL,the imegularity of first drawframe sliver shovnld ie less than that of
the card sliver from which it i nuade?.
Questions on Reading
1. What are the objects of the drawing frame?
2. What is the prodbct of the drawing frame?
3. Try to describe the principle of drawing.
38
Lesson 15 Roving
Objectives -
1.State the objects of the roving process.
2.Explain the principle of drawing, twisting, and winding in the roving process.
Sliver cans from firisher lrawing are rluffed and moved to the roving frame,whexe the sliver
is drafted to abnut one-eighth of its originul diarneter by three pairs of mllers rotating at different
speeds!,The first set moves at a relatively slow speed,the middle set at an intermediate apeed,
and the final set at a speedf about 10 imes the. sped of the first.This drafts the fbers out,reduces
the diameter of the strand,and imparts sotne audlitional paralle] alignement to the fibers.
The product of roving proces is called roving,it is by no means so rolust as the original sliver
and would not withstand collecting and weithdrawal in a can as formerly in the draw-frame? It i
therefore wound on a bobbin and a low measunre of twist is inserted. This gives the neesary
strength,bat is not too great lo prevent further draling at the next raachine、
The: roving can then be dlirectly spun to medium to fine count at the ring frame.
The: lyer frame is therefore essentially a ainple drafting macehine,with a secondary and mure
complicatel mechanism to 8erve the functions of twisting and winding.
'Twisting is perlfurned by means of the Nyer.
Winding is provided by driving he bobbin aL e speed either greater or less than the flyer.The
former"bohbin-lead",i general today;the later,"flyer-lead", having become obsolete.The
gear train to the bobbin is longer,having therefore miore backlahe3; thia could cause atretching of
the roving, in the case of Slyer-lead, on starting the: xmAchine.
The positive driving of both flyer and bobbsin is necessary is the case of roving of shont fiber,
such ds co1lon, to prevent breakage of the strand.
The dlyer is made in the shape of an inverted U, having one leg solid and the other leg
hollow. The roving leaving the nip of the front rollers is led dowmward to the top of the flyer,
through the hollow leg of the flyer and on to the bobbin3.Thus the rapidly revolving flyer in
corying the mving strand round the spindle axis inserts one tum of twist in the straund for every
revolution i makes. The twist per inch insertel in tlhe ruving is a constant ratio between the
revolutiuns per minute of the flyer and the inches per minute delivered by the front roller4.The
spindle speed is kept constant at as hig a value as is practicable and thua an increase in twist
69
卟“仁心” '・
八飞’ F.01p1 ..
necessilates a reduction itr frorRt roller speed anrl tience a redurtion in the prochuction of the
machine.
The brolbhin speexl is varied acceurdicng lo the diame1cr of the padckage as it builds on the
bohbin.As Ihe diameter increases the hobbin speed must be reduced tn continue to wind the
srand at the same speed as it is delivered 1y 山he front roller. This diferntial hobbin speed is
provided by means of r ̄oe-drums and a diferertial gexr.Bobbin-lead wind has le:ome slandard
on cofton frame.
Questions on Reading
1.What are the muin functions of roving frame?
2.Try to explain what a roving is.
61
Lesson 16 The Ring Spinning
-Objectives-
1.State the purpose of the spinning frame.
2.Describe the operation of the ring spinning frame.
Spining is the final prs.e8s in production of a single yam.The roving is drafted to the
desicel diacneter,and the rlesirerl amwunt of twist is added. The method of drafting used in
spinning is the 沙me as hat used in drawing and roving.The twist is impanted by the, movement of
the fiber strand around the hobbin and by the spe:d of rotation of the spindle holding the bobbin.
The purpwise of the spitning frame is to redluce roving to the.required sizv: of single yurTI and Io
insert a suitable amount of Lwist. Spianing nay he dividled into thre essential steps;(I)
reduction of the strand by rolls similar to those usex in ruving,(2)twisting of the strand after it
has heen redluverl to the required size,and (3)winding of the yam anto a euitable package for
further use.
The proluet of spinning is a single votton yarT.A great vauriely of yarns can be made Lo suil
particular reqpireiments of malesial, in which they are used'.Three msin clasifications are as
follow:
Warpy yarns— are ilose intended for longitudinal nse in woven fabrices.These usually have
maximum strength as a rwult of uing long nd goad quality cotton,eare in preparation and a
relativs high Lwis1.
Filling yarmns— ar: those intendel for cronswise interlacing in wovcn fabrics. They us1ally
have less twist than warp yarts to avoil the fortmation uf kinks in weaving and to give softness and
body to the fabricrs.
Kniting yarns一 ace those irntended for use in the knitting indlusitry.These usually have even
less twist than Glling yarns ard are made wit ronsiderable care because uniformity i important in
preducing; knited fabrics.
Any of the above yarns tmay be either rarded wr combed. Carled yarns are those produced
from cotton which has bwen carded,drawn andl spun,whereas cothed yams are produced when
fibers are botlh tarded and corlbed.As 4 geaeral prar:tic,combed yars are produced fronu lunger
staple fibers.Combing recnoves the shorter ibers and so helps to priduced yam of high quality,
espveially improved uniformity and strength'.
68
The Ring Spinning
1. Operation of Ring Spinning Frame
The bobbins of roving are held in a vertical psition in the upper center of the frame, known
as the "ereel". The strands are led to the roving trumpets and pass between a set of draftitug rolle.
The top rolls are weighted. w; that they have a definite grip on the cotton. As the middle rulls or
aprons go slightly faster than the back rolls, and the Iront rolls go much faster than either, the
strand of colton roving is reduces to a much finer tsize. The fibers at the front roll form a very thin,
narrow ribbon. The weigh per yard at this pointrnay vary from 0.05 to 3.00 grains. Beyond the
front roll, the ribbon of fibers passes forward ard downward, al an angle of usually 45 to 60、to
the thread guide which is in the form of a pigtail. The thread guide is sel directly over the center of
the spindle and ring. The strand then passes duwnward to the traveler on the ring, and from there
to the bobbin on the spindle.
2. Drofting
The reduction of the rovirg weight on the spirning frame. spoken of as drafting, is
accomplished ly passing the strands through several pairs of rolls and aprons which operate at
increasing surface speeils3. The commou arrangelment is three pairs of rolls held in bearings called
"mll strands,", usually including a pair of aprolns along with the middle rolls. The strands are
usually inclined so that the path of the cotton isat an angle of 45 to 60 with the horizontal. The
roll strand is built in an inclined position to permit the twist to reach up to the bite of the front
drawing rolls,so that the ends will not break down. The front bottom roll is in a fixerd bearing,
while the other rolls are in suljustable bearings. This permits spacing the rolls to accommodate
different fiber lengths.
The principle of drafting in the spinning framee is that of gripping the fibers beiween a slowly
moving pair and rolls, which delivers them to a tapidly moving pair of rolls. The latter grips the
most arlvancerl fibers and draws them away from the slowly moving fiber mass. The ratio of speeuls
is so adjusted that the strand is not hroken apartbut the fibers are drawn by each other to make a
new, uniform arrangement of a much-reduced number of fibers in the cross section'. If one roving
is fed w make each strand of yam, the conditiona is spoken of as spinning from“single roving”. If
two rovings are fed to make each strand of yaln, it is called spinning with“double roving”.
For ordinary spinning frames, the range of drsafts is from IU to 20 for shont-staple fine yarns.
Recent developments in improved drafting syetems have permitted the production of yams of
commercially acceptable quality at relatively high drafts, ranging from 30 to 50. The imporlart
factors determining what draft may reasonably beused are the capacity of the drafting system being
used, the slaple of the cotton, including the degree of uniformity of fiber length, the bulk being
processed, the quakity of the product desired, wlhether single or double rovings are used, and the
speed at which the operation is performed.
69
一” 问 ' 【4 3AL i翻
1… ̄i4 n.
I
Lys5、m17.TIhe Ring Spinning.
at inereaAing surface speeds.
在细纱机上,纱条穿过几对以递增的表面速度转动的罗拉和皮辊,实现了粗纱重M的
减少,称为牵仲,句中 spokent of as drafing 是插入语。
4.The ratio of sreeds is so adjuted that the strand is not brokex apart but the fibers are
drawn by each other to make a new,uriforn arrangem-nL of a umuh-rexiuced nurmber of
hern in the cros6 xection.
各罗拉速度之比应调整到纱条 不断开,而纤维相互牵小形成新的懒戴面中纤维数量
大大减少的均匀配置、这是-个主从复合句,由 so..uhat..引导结果状语从句、从
句 乂是并列复合句,由连词 but 连接。
5.This metion t:auses the yarn deliveredl at the front roll to wind on the bobbin in an
ucendhing and dexcending spiral,giving a ariform yarn package on the hcbbin.
这、-装置使前罗拉输出的纱线以上下往复的螺旋线卷绕在份管上.从而得到均匀的
卷装
Questions on Reading
1.What are the main objecta of the spinning proces?
2.What are: warp and filliug yans?
3. Briefly deseribe how twisting and winding is accomplished in the spinning provces.
Ga5
Lesson 17 The New Methods of Spinning
Objectives -
1,State the major advantages of the open-end spinning.
2.State the basic process for open-end spinning.
3、Compare the open-end spun yarns with the ring spun yatns.
4.State the major advantages of self-twist spinning-
Open.e"?∶5 S汇p1"?约?inG
(pen-end spinning(OE)is a new technique for preparing yarne directly fram fibers without
the inlermerliale steps of normal spinning.To the manufaclurer,the rmajor sdvantege of open-cnd
spirning is its high speed and eubsequent low cosl per pound of yarn produced. These yarns cen
be prvduced for abut two-hirds of the cost of the nsual ring-spun yams.
The basic process for open-end spinming involves removing fbers from condensed sliver at a
very high rate of speed and recondensing them.with twis to furm a yarn'.Air,water,or
meilunical rotors can be used to recondense the fbers.In al the process,the twist is formed
without ro1ating either the supply or the take-up package,
The sliver for OE spinning is produced in the same ranner as for ring spinning. Single fber
yares and blerds of fibens are produced on both systeme. lt appears, however,that cleaning is
even more important in rotor spinning,since trash deposited inside the spinring rotor can cause
defects in yarms'.
Althuugh water-vortex spinning remains a novelty,both rotore spinning and air-jet spinning are
commervially successful. The basic seqpence for both of them is dealting,fber transport,fiber
condensation,twiet insertion,yam removal, and package winding.The sliver is fexl 1o the
spianing syelem from cans just as it is in ring spinning-
Ratof Spinning
Induetrial interest in rotor spinning in the United States can be traced t the Internalional
Texile Machinery Association(ITMA)'show in Basel,Switxerland,in 1967.The equipment,
which was actualy exhihited in a warehouse in France,had been built in Czechoslovakie and w就s
operating cormrnercially in a plant in Romania. Many ehanges have been made in the basic
rnachinery since that time.Although each equtipinent manufacturer has a slightly diferent process,
8)
多? The New Methods ofSpiDnixg
a generic roNor sniqning system can be described.
1. Drating
The sliver,which may have as many us 20,000 fbers in its eross section, must be reduced to
an almost single-fher stream before it is caught up in the open-end of the yarn, A scnall wire-
covered or pinned cylinder rotates to separate fibers from the cylinder au transjKrt them through a
delivery tube to the inside of a rapidlly rotating drum or rotor.
2. Spining
The drafted iher is deposited as a very thin,continuous stream into a V-shaped collecting
surface inside the rutalting rotor. With each revolution of the totor,additional fber builde up and
twist is added to the assembled fibers at the rate of about one turn af twiat per revolution,Yarn is
renowed fmom the totor at the rate of a fraction of an ine:h per revolution.
The fhers have some freedom of mavememnt as the rotor spins,and the fiberes thar are laid
down firet will be twisted when the next fiber layer is deppsited.This produces 我 varr structure
qite differert from that of a ring-spun yarn'. When a ring-spun yarn is untwisted,the fbers
become essentially parallel, to one another. In cantrast, when an aternpt is mede to untwist a
rotor-spun yarn, there is never a slate when all fibers are roughly parallel. Frequently,in fact,
untwisting the outer fibers twists the inner core ol fber9 mure tightly.
3. Winding
The amount of twist in an OE yarn is determined by rotor veloeily,and the speed of the yam
take-ap roller.The winding or buildup of the yarm package is a separate function that does not
wffect the twist level in the yarn.Becanse larger packages can be wound on the OE ystem,higher
yurl productlon speeds are poseible.
Ar-jet Spinning
The basic drafting processes for air-jet, or air-vortex,spinning are similar to other open-end
drafting processes. The major difference is in the method used Lo insert Lwist into the yRrns.
Tww air nozzles with opposing air vortexes twist the dralted sliver to form a yarn,which is
stronger than rotor spun yarns but has a tendency to pil5. Newly introduced machinea are capable
of spinring twp ends at the same spinning position. These twin-spinoing machines produce two
yarns on a take-up package,which is ready for two-for-one twisting to produce a plied yerm. The
two yarns Can al9o be edl for fabric constructions such as oxford cloth,where 1wo vams are uged
eide by side as a single yarn in weaving.
Fricticr:Spinning
Friction spinning waxs developed in the mid 1970s in Austria.It evolved from the work af Dr.
67
*:可,每生gil_ 单 到
・・1i.・[11o、1
Emst Feher,who inlroduced the DREF spinaing' machines. In friclion spinning systemns, te
sliver enters the system,and fibers are separated and spread onto a roll. They are doffed from the
roll andl trarsported by air to a frirtion zone,where two :ylinders rotating in the sanie direction
pull the fibers together to form a yarn'、The fibers have Jeter aligrmert in the finished yarn if the:
angle of fed toy the friction rolls is kept low.
Several ncnlifialicns df friction spinning allow rhe wr4pping of a ccnter fber core with pther
fibers and the use of a <omthination of flatments and staple fibers to pruwluee a yam. Yam
prvyerties vary with the spinning modification used.Like most open-end yams,however,a
friction-spuR yarn generally is weaker than a ring-spun yarn of the same coun.
凹“了”?”一泻六”工丫。‘”之沪“
The najor advantage of OF *pun yarns is grealer abraeion resistariee. And another advantage
both to the mapufacturer and the consumer is the greater regularity of OE yarns.The inore reguJar
the yamn,the iess likely it is to produce weak spots or uneven dyeing in the final cloth.In
aklition,a muore regular yam will produce a beter overall epparance in the firished goods,
Strength is said to be educed by 15?5 ompared with corresponding ning-spun yarn.
This disadvantage is compwnsated by the inr:reased abrasion resistance of open-cnd yar.
The greuter hulkine8s is another merit of open-end yarms,The yarn diameter is 10~15%
greater than that of ring-spun yarms. This gives a corespondingly higher cover factor and
repregente a saving of fihers.
的泳守产”汀飞二中心
In this tethod,plied yarns are formed directly frum fhers.An untwisted strand of fber is
passed through 1wo ets of rollers. The first set is fixed,the second set pscillates side to side as i
rotutes.The motior wf lie oscillating rcllere causcs the fibers to twist around each other to form a
yar. As the rollers reverse direction,the twist direction of the yarn also reverses.In the zone in
wlich the direction of twist direction changes,the yar is weak,To uvercome this problem,pairs
of self-twist yarms are twisied again. In the second twisting, the yarrns are. fed to the rolers with the
weuk regions out of phase with each other. This assures that the weak points in one yar are
supported hy the strong sections of the other yarn.
The major advanlage of self-twist spinming ure(1)reduced pace requisements,(2)labor
svings up to 50 percent over standard epinming methods,and(3)higher speed of prwluclion.All
these factors help to reduce the cost to the consumer. I hes been reported that self-twist yars,
although different in their propertie from stndand spun yarms,perform satisfactorily when made
inio fabrics for trosers and slaucks.As experience with these new yamns grows,it is expected that
a larger share of all fahries will be produced from therm.
69
CSs・1 The New MelhodB ot Spinring
成纱线。
2.It appeaTs,however,that cleaning is even morv inportant in rotor spinning,since trash
deposited inside the spining rotor can cause defects in yams.
显然,清洁对转杯纺来说相当重要、因为在纺纱杯中的杂质会引起纱线疵点。since
在本句中是"因为"的意思。
3.the Inlernational Textile Machinery Association(TMA)
国际纺织机械协会
4.'This prouuces a yarn struchure quite different from that of A ring-spun yarm.
这样生产的纱线结构与环锭纺纱的纱线结构完全不同。diferent from;与……不同。
69
k方 M3?引 谨1
次国 至
{Y" ?习
Questions on Reading
1.What are the atlvantages and disadvantages of open-end spun yarth rompareh wih that of
rirg-8pun yam?
2.How is the yarn generated by rotor spinning?
3.Describe the friction spinniug process for making yams.
4.What are the major advantages of self-Lwiet spinning?
70
Lesson 18 Woven Fabrics
Objectives.
1.Define the terms:woven fabric,warp yarn, weft yafn,
2.Explain the thread count of woven fabric.
Some years ago,the terms cloth and fabric were inter:hangeable. They were usually defined
as materials made by weuving,kniting,or felting fibers. Today,this definition is no lunger
salisfactory,Fabrice can be made wihout the use of fibers,ae in vinyl upholstery;or they cen be
made by other processes,as in nonwoven disposable or liners.
Now,we define a fabric as any thin,flexible material prepared from cloth,polymeric fim,
foum,directly from filers,or any comabination of these methods.A cloth is any thin,flexible
material prepared from yars. By these definitions,sucb materials as wallpaper,plastic upholstery
prodncts,carpets,and nonwvven materials arefabrics; woven,knit,tuftedl,or knotted materials
made from yams are eloths. Note that eloth is a fabric, but all fabrics need not be cloth'、
Weaving is the oldcst method of producing eloth,Although the machinery for weaving cluth
has changed wver the millennia,the basic operation has remained the same. Weaving,which is
the interlaxing of two or more sets of yarns(u8ually at right angles to each otlier),requires
holding one∶ eL of yarms in parallel rows and passing another set ovo and under the firat set2.The
set of lengthwise yarns is called the warp,and the inlividuel warp yarns are known as ends.The
set of rrosswise yarns is the fill or fiing. The individual fill yams are called picke(oher names
for the filing are weft).To keep the cloth from unraveling,a narrow width at each erlge is closely
woven. This strip is called the selvage. The closeness of the weave is deterrnined by the yam count
(also calked the thread count), which is defined as the number of ends and the number of picks
pr square inch of cloth.Yam count may be given as the sum of the warp and fll yams,or as the
rumnber of warp yarns hy the number of fill yarns. For example,a sheeting material may be
descriled as 140 vount,or as77×63 muslin.The higher the yarns count,the closer the clouh
COnstruction2
Woven sructures may be conveniently divided into two principle categories,as follows;
(I) Simple struc:tures,in which the ende and the picke intersecl one another at right angles
and in the cloth,are respectively parallel with each ather.In thes constructions,there is only one
series of erds and nne series of picke and all the constituerLt threads are equally responsible for
77]
入芒“”“郸长院醛
I::×I 1:1riunat1
both the: aspect of utility or performanv:e anid aesthetic appeal in a fabric;?.
(2)Compound struclures,in which there may bhe nore than orse series of ends or picks,some
of which may be responsible for the"Jody"of the fabrir,such as ground yams,whilst some may
be employed entirely for ormamental purposves snch as"figuring",or"face" yams3.In Ihese
cl*ths,some threads may be found not to be in parallel formation one to another, There are msry
pile surface constnucthions ir which some thread may poject out at right angles to the geueral
plane of the: fabric.
Until the early nineteenth century,weaving was a handcraft. In the late 1700s and early
1800;,inventors and engineers such as Jo9eph Marie Jacquard and Edmund Cartwright developed
luorns that were partially machine p1owered. Cradually,power loums replaced handlooms for
cotnmercial manufarturing,although lal locms continue; to be tnanofactured for hand wcaves.
Questions on Reading
1. What are woven fabrics?
2. What is the threaul count of a woven fabric?
73
Lesson 19 The Three Basic Weaves
Objectives-
1,Define the three basic weaves.
2.Describe the main characteristics of the three basic weaves.
The three basic weaves一plain, twill, and satin—can he made on the, siumple oom without
the use of any attac:hment.
P2ain WEaV
Plain weave ie the gimples1 of the three basic weave that can he made on a eimple loom. It is
formed by yams at right angles passing alternately over and under each other.Each warp yam
interlaces with each filing yarn Lo form the maximum numbet of interlacing.Plain weave requires
oniy a two-harneas loomn And ig the least expensive weave to produce,It is described as a I/1
weave; one harness up and one harres down when the weaving shed is formed. Plain weave
fahrics have no right or wrong side unless they are printed or given surface fniah1.Their plain,
nnirteresting surface serves as a good backgyound for printedl desigms,for ernbossing,and for
puckered and glazxed finishes. Bevause there are many interlacings per aqruare inch,plain weave
fabrics tend to wrinkle more,ravel less,and be less sheorbent than osher weave. Interesting
effects can be achieved by the use of different fber eontents,novelty or textured yarns,yams of
diferent sizes,bigh or low twist yarns,flament or staple yarns,and diffeent finishes.
The simplest form of plain weave in one in whieh warp and filing yarns are the same size and
the same distance apart2,9o they show equaly on the surface balanced plain weave. OLher forms
hbuve warp yarns so numerous as to cover the filling that are obvious only in the form of ridges
called ribs—unbalanced plain weave,and vAriations that have two or more yams interlaced as
one-basket weave,
Tvi扇 leaVE
Twill weave is one in which each warp or filling yarn floats two or more filling yarns with a
progresion of interlacings by one Io the right or the left to fprm a distinct diagonal line or wale. A
ftoat is that portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more yarns from the epposite direc:tion.Twill
weaves vary in the number of harmesses.The Imore complex twills may have as many as 18 picks
骂
记字弓 The Three Basic Weaves
inserted befare repeating and are woven ne loom with a dohhy attachment.Twil]weave is the
second busic weave that ean be made on he simple lot.
Twill weave is ofen desigated by a frac;tion(for example 2/1)in which the numerator
indicates the number of hameses that are raised and the denotminator indicates the number af
harne9es that are lowered when a flling yamn is inserted3.The frasction 2/1 would be read as"two
up, one down".The floals on the surface are warp yarns making it warp surfare,yo called warp-
faced twll.
1.Even-sided Twills
Even-sided twills have the same amount of warp and filling yarn exposed on both sides of the
fabric. 'They are sometimes called reversible twill because they look alike on both side although
the rirection of the twll line differs.Betler ruality filling yarns must be used in these fabrics than
in the warp-faced twills sinee bolh sets of yart are exposed to wear".They are 2/2 twille and have
the best balance of all the twill weaves.
2.Warp-faced Twills
Warp-faced twille have a predominance of warp yarns on the right side of the cloth. Since
warp yarns are made with higher twist,they are atranger and more resistant to abrasion.
The maior advanteges of atwill fabrie are that it is durable and wear well,resists soiling,
and hss good resistance to wrinkling. ILs disadvanfages are that,oce soiled,it is rnore difficult lo
clean than plain-weave fabrics,and it usually has a right and wrong side,which may make
garment design diicult. Unless giren special treament,some uneven Lwill fabrics produce
garments that are prone to twisting or skewing on the body after laundering.
Sntin WV(ave
Satin weave is ane in which each warp yarn floats over four filling yams(4/1)and interlaces
with the fifth filling yam,wiuh a progression of interlacings by 1wo to the right or left(or each
6lling yarn floats over four warps and interlaces with the fifth warp(1/4)with a prgression of
intetlavings by two lo the right or left).In certain fabries,such s double damask and slipper
satin, each yarm floats across seven yarns andl interlace with the eighth yarn. Satin weave js the
third hasic:weave that cen be made on the simple lorm,aad the hasin fabrics made wit this weave
are satin and sateen.
Satin-weave fabrics are characterized by luster because of the long floats that cover the
su/ace'.
When warp yarmB cover the surface, the fabric is a warp-faced fabric satin and the wap count
is high. When fling floats cover the surface,the fabric is a filling-faced.
All these fabrics have a right end wrong side.A high yur coun1 gives them strength,
durability,body,firmness and wind repellencey.Fewer interlacings give pliability and resistance to
?5
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T・∶火1-l1∶111s
wrinkling hut ray permit yarn slippag: ard raveling.
富
二6为小下4 The Three Basic Weave6
Questions on Reading
1.What are 1山he thre basic weaves?
2.(orapar; the main characteristices of the three basice weaves.
3. (ive examrples of the uRes of the three baain: weaves.
7
Lesson 20 Preparation for Weaving
Objectives -
1.State the purpose of weaving preparation.
2.Descibe the processes of weaving preparation.
Although the mechaniem of forming woven aend knited fabrics aze very different,
nevertheless,they both have ore common factor, yarn.Both systemm manipulate yatms to produce
a fahric.
Yarns as manufactured and packeged are no in the optirur condition lo be used to form
fabrics.After yar fommation,both spun and continuous flament yarns are wot immediately usable
in fabric farming systems. Package size,build and oher factors make it neceseary for the yam to
be further processed to prepare it to be handled efficiently during the fabric formation'.
For weaving ard warp kniting, rany yarns are presented simultan=ously in the fom of a
warp sheet. These yams are taken from packages called beams. Shuttle looms need a special
filling yam package,or quill,which fits in the shuttle; while ehutuleless looms and weft knitting
muchires use yam from large package8 called cheesea or cones.
From the alove,it can be seen that the yarn,packaged as it coes from spinning,is virtually
useless. It mmst be repackaged to meet the particular needs and demands for the fabric forming
system in which it is to be used'.This,in fact,is one of the funclion6 of yarnt preparation,to put
the yarm on a suitable package for a particular fabric formaing system.
1.Windling
The first step in yarrt preparation is winding.The reasions for winding yarns are:(1)to
produce a packagc which is suitable for further processing,and(2)to inspect and elear the yarn
(remove thiek and thin spots).To perform the above tasks,a winder is divided into three principle
zores:the unwinding zone,the tension and clearing zone,and the winding xone.After winding,
warp yars are wound on ones for warper creels und weft yams are wound on pims which fit into
shutle6.
2.Warping
This is the pmcess by which a fixed number of cones of yarns in a warper creel are wound on
7
二引引三 Preparation for Weaving
to a beam. If the fabric forming system is weaving or warp knitting,8ome or all of the yarns
forming the fabric are presented in sheet fomm. TIt is necessary therefore to remove the yarn from
the winding package anl arrange the desire number on a pat浊kage calle beam.The yarns must
be parallel and under uniform tension. This, then,is the purpose of warping.
3.Siashing
This is to strengthen the warp yarns by coating them with size,so that they may nnt bceak
durin weaving. In the weaving pcoces,the warp yarns are subjected to rubbing and chafing
against metal by being threaded through drop wires,heddles and reed; they are contantly being
rubbed 1ogether during shedding;they are subjected to tension both constant,by the lel-off and
tke-up,and intermittent,by the shedding and beat-up、All nf these leacl to conditions which are
favorable to end breakage, an occurrence which should be minimized,Thus,it is desirable to
produce as high a quality warp as possible,one which will withstand the rigore of weaving.This is
the purpose of alashing or warp eizing.
4. Drowing-In
This is to draw-in the warp ends after slashing through the reed splits.Whether the weave
from deigu paper will be produced in the woven fabric depends upon this process3.
Questions on Reading
1, Why the yarmn preparation is necessary?
2.Describe the msin purpose of each process of the yamn prejpuratlion3.
80
Lesson 21 The Loom
Objectives -
1.State the main structure of a loom,
2.Describe the operation of a loom.
Weaving is done on a machine:. calier a lovm,Al the fabice that are known today have: been
male by the primitive weaver. The lowxnt hes ahariged in mary ways,but the hasic princ:iples ard
opera1jone remain Lhte samr.
The Industrial Revolutign and nass production canse changes in looms,all eof whit:h wer
aimed ut achieving high-speed prnduction."The basic inodern loom consists of two bcams,a
w-aver's beam and a cloth beam,holding the warp yarns betweren them.A; can be seen in the
twc-harness lomn a one huamess is raised,the yarns form a shed through which Ihe weft yan can
be inserted'".
Phevious to2 weaving,the warp threads mtust he placed side by side just as they will he in the
falris: ant w0urd ort f a bram,The length of tese threats nast,of course,be approximately that
of the fabric to be woven.Also the weft thread will be wound on small cops,Since the weft threaul
hax t le nov∶l brLween the wary 山reads in weaving,it is not p0ssible to make these cops large,
5o a lrge number of these have to he used one aftr the pther'in maki理g a long length uf fabric.
The warp beam(or weaver's beam),which holds the lenghwise yamns,is located at the huck
of the machine and is controlled so that it releases yarm lo the weuving area of the loom as
ruexeded'. This function is the let-off motion,the firs1 of four primary loom motions,The heddles
are wire or metal strips that allow control of the individual ends;an enid is pulled hrough the eye
located in the center of each heudle. The individual heddles are rnounted in a harness that allows
the warp yams to be controlled in groups.A loom has at least two harmesses,and rmost have more.
The number of harmesses on a loom helps detemmine the complexity of the fabrie: design that can be
produced.
ln a two-harnues loum,every other warp yarn acrbes the width of the fabric: is in one harees.
When thal haTess is raised,half of the warp yarns rise to produce an opening be1ween the two
sleets of warp yaras. This opening knowa s the shed produces a path through which the filling is
inserted. The loum molin is talledshecding and the ordler in which harnesees ure raisedl and
lowered produees a pattein in the fabric. In looms containing Twxr than (wo harnesses,the
6
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sequence for drawing endls Ihrough heddles and mounting heddles in harnesses becomes more
intricate.In rthany cases,groups of harnesses are raised and lowered togetheT,A very good fabric
dcsigner is neededl to plan the drawing-in ol a warp and tbe sequencing of haresR movements in a
32-harne3eloom3.
The third basic: loom motion is picking or iling insertion.For many yeara,fling yamns was
lail across the shed with s shu1tle. In today'e weaving rnachines, anotber devices such as a jet of
air or water,a rapier,or A 6mall projectile,is used to place the pick. Then each filling yam must
be pucked against the previously placed pick. This is accompliashed by using a reed,which is
parallel to the harness, to press the pick into position, This is the beat-up motion,the fourth loom
mnotin.
The clouth beam, or clath roll located at the front of the loom, holds the completed fabric; as
each pick is heaten into position,the fabrie just produced is rolled onto the take-up beam. This
take-up motion is the final loom molion, because let-off and 1ake-up uccur simultaneously, the
loon motion is usually referred to as "le1-off and take-up".
Must fabrics are produced on weaving machines with eight or fewer harneses;elaborate
fabries, however,require many hamesses and the special attachments required to control groups of
hamess,or tbey have echanisms similar to computer controls 山hat move esch individuat warp
yam to produce complex patterns.
阁
了字己 'The oom
Questions on Reading
1. What ere the five main motions in a weaving machine?
2.Describe briefly the main structure of a shutle luom.
839
Lesson 22 Shuttleless Looms
-- Objectives ---
1.State the development of the shuttleless looms.
2.Describe the main characteristics of the major shuttless looms.
3.Compare the shuttleless loom with shuttie loom.
For ernturics, the basie loom operated with a tshuttle to lay the felling, or picks. The speed
willi which the shuttle is sent back and forth is limiled by the mass of shuttle——usually about 200
picks per munute. Marufaclures have long soutght a way to replace: the shuttle and inerease the
specd of weaving.
Shuttleless looms were developed as a way without the shutle. Because they loth inereasel
pruductivity and lowered noise levels, they weree widely adopted'.Shuttleless weaving machines
wove 17 pereent more fabrie in 1987 than they did in 1982, amd Textile World prediels that sluttle
loom will be outnumbered by shuttleless weavingmachines in the early 1990s. The major Iypes of
shuttleless looms are water jet, air jet, rapier anld projectile loom. In all four types of looms,the
filling yarns are measured and cut,thus leavinga fringe along the side. This fringe may be fused
w make a selvage,il the yarms are thermoplastir, or the ends may be turnevl back into the cloth.
These selvages are not alwaye as usable as comventional selvages because of a tendency towarl
puckering that requires slitting.
1. Waler-iet Loom
The water-jet lovm uses a high-pressure jet ofwater to carry the filling yani across the warp.
It works on the principle of rontinuous feed atiolminimum tension of the filling yerns,so it can
weave fabrics without barre or slreaks. The fillirg yarn comes from a stalionary paekage at the side
of the loorn, goes to a measuring drum that contirols the length of each filling, and continuous by
going through a guide to the water nozzle, where a jet of water carries it across through the warp
shed, Afier the flling is carried back, it is cutoff. If the fibers are thermoplastic, a hol wire is
used to cut the yam, fusing the ends so they serve as a selvage.
The waler is removel froru the loon by a suction device. Water from the jet will dissolve
regular warp sizing,so one of the problems has lpeen that of developing water-resistant sizing that
can be removed easily in cloth finishing processes42. The fahrie ia wel when it romes from the loom
8
1,、、 Shunttletlegs JAxcormR
and must be dried(an addled expense).
The leour is more compact,les9 noisy, ank] Lak+s up less floor space thun the canventional
kox3m.]t ran operate at 400 1 600 pieke per airute-Iwu ror hree timieR faster than the conventional
toom. Maintenance is relatively tany.
2.Air-ief Loomn
Air-jet weaving is more pupular because the machines cost less to purchase,install,operate,
and maintain than rapier or projectile weaving machines,and the air jet can be used on abruacler
varie1y of yarns than a water jet.
The yarn is pulled from the supply packa at uroustanL speed,which is regulated by the
rollers,located with the measuring disk just in front of the yarn package'.The measuring disk
removes a length of yarn appropriate to the width of the fabric being woven.A champ halds the
yarn in an insertion storage area,where an auxiliary air nozle forms it into the shape of a hairpin.
The Truin rkvzzle hegins Llowing air 3o that the yam is set in mnotion as s0on as the clamp
opens.The hairpin shape: is strelched out as th, yarn is blown into the guiding c:hannel of the reed
with the shed open. The yam is carrird through the shed by the air currvnts enited by the relay
nozles along the channel.The maximum effective width for air-jet weaving machines is about
355em.At the enl of each insertion cyele the clamp clnses;the yarn is beaten in,then cut,after
the shed is closed.Again,some elvage-forming device is rquitveel uprovide stabilily to the elg;
of the fabric.
lhe loom s:an operate at 320 picks per minute and is suitable for spun yarns. There are
limitutiorts in fabric width because of diminution of the jeL nf air as it passes acrwuss the; kxrtE.
3. Rapier-type Loom
Thec rapicr system operates with either fexible or rigid meLal arme,or rapier, attuched al
bxoth sides of the weaving area. One arm arries a pick to the center of the weaving area; the arr
extending from the other side grasps te pick amd camies it across the reanaining fabric width
Newer rapier machines are bnilt with two distinct weaving arcas for two separate fabries.On such
muc:hincs,one rapier pieks up the yarn from the center,betwecn the 1wo fabries',and cvarries it
across one weaving area;as it finishes laying tha1 pick3,the oppoeite end of Lhe rapier picks up
another yarn from the cerLer,and he rapiet toves in the other direction to lay a pick for th:
second ws:aving area,on the other half of the machine.
Rapier looms weave nwore rapidly than most shuule looms but more slnwly than most projectle
nachines. The: rapier-type lom weaves(primarily)spun yarns a 300 picks per minute. An
important advantage of rapier looms is their flexibility,which pernits the laying of picks of
lifferent cnlors.They als weave yarns of uny types of fber and can weave fabrice up to ll0
inches in width without modlification.This loom has found wide-acceptnce for use with basic:
coton and we0] worstel fahbric9.
85
sfi t 专业英语
4.Projecile Lo0m
The projeutile lwom uses a small bulle-shaped projectile wih a gripper thal puls the yarm cff
the: supply package xt the eide of the weaving areas and carries it across the shed4.Only enough
yarn for one pass acro the width of the fahric is carried acro6s. Prujectile looms with one or more
projectiles are available; the multiple-projectile type is more common.The single-projectile sye1em
picks up yam on the supply side and caries it the entire widuh of the shed. After beat-up has
occured,the projectile picks up yar from a second supply source on the other side and returns
acros the shet to place the next pick.
Muliple-projectile systems can be used in machine with a wide weaving bed,so the projetile
gripper8 can tanaler the pick across the falbric in a relay fashiorn. In uter aultiple-projectile
systems,the gipper from the first projectile picks up yarn from the supply source and moves
aCross the shed to lay that length of yam; then,as beat ̄up occurs, the projectile drops into a
conveyor syetem that returms it to the aupply eide to pick up new yarn in the meantime,the second
gripper hns pulled a pick to repeat the process.
Each pick is individually cut,8o there is not a continuously woven selvage ike that produced
by a shutle machbine. Instead,the edges are fringed. To finish them,a tucking device is used on
both sides to inerlace the fringe with the last few wap yamns along each edge.
窝
LatLG ±三 Shutleless Looms
Questions on Reading
1.Why the shurtle looms will be replaced by the shuttleless looms?
2. What are the alvantages and disadvaniages of water-jet loom?
3. Why the projectile loom can rn faster?
87
Lesson 23 Knitting
Objectives
1.Define the terms; count, course, wale, gauge and stitch.
2.Distinguish the difference between warp-knit fabrics and weft-knit fabrics.
3.State the three basic weft-knit constructions.
4.State the main characteristics of the major weft-knit structures.
Questions on Reading
1.What are the difference lelween weaving and knilting?
2.What are the characteristics of weft knits?
3. What are the characteristics of warp-knit fabrics?
4. Why the jersey knits is most widely useul?
聚
Lesson 24 Nonwoven Fabric
-Objectives
1.Define the term nonwoven fabric.
2.State the development of the nonwoven fabric.
3.State the basic sequence of steps in manufacturing nonwoven fabric.
4.State the main methods of web formnation.
‘
accelerated production of random-web nonwovens.The machine etploys an air-daffer prineiple.I
is descriled as air-Iay systerns.
The air-loffer prin1ciple involves 1he spreading and laying of flhers by controliled air currenis.
Air su:bon pulls the fibers from the supply or feeder rollg wr helts and deposits them in a random
arrangement on a condenser roll、The fiber mat is then fed irto a compressor,which forms the
fabric.Advabtoges of this inethod include untiformity im thicknes,equal strength in all directions,
and reasonable coet of prianulacture.
After e wel is former,bonds beiween the fbers must be srengthened and stabilized.
Bonding tehniques employed in bonding fiber webs formed by the dry-lay process include:
(1)An adhesive or bonding agent,either A dry powder or a liquid,is applied directly to the
wel in a separate step.The power is usually a hermoplastic substance that is fused into the web
by the application of dry heat.If a wet solution used,it is spreal unifomnly over the web and then
一
set by chetical a?tion or hea1.
(2)Thermopilaytic fibers are uniformlyblended in thc fiber ix and are evenly distributed
within the web.Fleat is applied,and the thermoplastie Fbers soften and fuse over and aroun{ the
other fiers. As the web crolk,the fhbers ure all held irmly logether.
Tlhe adhesive ter:hnique is m(xst conmonly used,These methods behave differendly on
diferemnt fbers or fiber biends,so the munufachurer must have considerable techmical knowledge lo
make the right chuive of bonding agent for the spexific end-usel af each fabric type.
谓
己子了 Nonwovern Fabric
2.We1-ay Webs
Bonded fber falrit浪 tnay be fommed as fbers are depusitedl from suzspension in water、This
is the technigue used in making paper; it has been adopted by some manufacturers to form fabrics.
'The main difference is in th: length of fiber used; paper uses very short fibers,whereas these
fabrics arc nade from fibers bhetween 1/4 and 1/2 inch in length.
One important reason for the; use of wet-lay system is economy.Fabrics can be forned more
rapidly and,hence,more eroromically than by nther techriques. The general procedural steps
售?”
(1)Weh formation.Fihery are suspended in weter, then depowiled from the suspvension onto a
special tyye ol Nupport,where the water is removed.
(2)Bonditg. The bonding agent may be incorporated intlo the suspension in the form of either
adhesive or binder fibers.The adhesivcs seal the filsers together 丝s they dry;the binder filbers have
special properties that cause them to reac: arul seal or hind oher fibers into a cohesive fabric.
Fihers used for this include syecial-formula polvvinyl alcohol fbers and special viscose fibers.
Wet-lay webs of fhers may be tonded by applying an adhesive to the newly formed web and drying
and curing:
Bonded fiber fabrics appear in a number of products. They are found in diapers,
handkerchiefs,skirs,dresses,wpparel inrteracings,bandage and shrouds. Oher typical proxhuc1s
include curtains,decxontarrination clothing,garment bags,industrial apparel,lampshades,map
backing,napkin3,place mats,ribbuon,upholstery backing,window shades,carpeting und
blankets.
A major defect of bonded fiber fabrics for apparel is their lack of good draping qualities.The
fabri:s tend to be firm and somewhat stiff.A further prohlem is their lower strength as compared
wih woven or knitted fabrics of :ompurable weight. Towever,continued growth in bonded 6her
fabric prkuection and appliration is a eertainty becdLse of economy in production.
Questions on Reading
1. What are the basic sleps in making the bonded fler nonwovens?
2.Compare the three methods of dry-laid web formation.
3.What are the main characteristices of the wet prox:ees?
96
Appendix 1 Primary Properties of Textile Fibers
1.Length-to-widih Ratio
For manufactures to lxe: able lo spin a fiber into a yarn or manipulate it to provduce a nonwoven
fabris:,the fber must be long enough tw allow proeesing and slender enough to be flexible. The
relationship between length and width of a filver is called the fengtl-Lo-widtu rati.A mitirnurn
ration of 10 is thsnuglut to he essential,and mnst fiber have mur:h higher ratios. Fibers shorter
than l.3 cm are seldom used in yarn manufacturing.
2.Sirength
A fher Inust powses enough strength to withstand proresing ly available textile machinery
and provide: tie desired durability in its end use. The strength of a specimen aubjected to lensjon
loadl (as distinc:t from torsion,compression, and shear lodk)iR u6ually reported when fiber
pruperties are compared.
Any iwne ol a number of different laboralory instruments can be uset as upply a tension load fo
a tiber. Most 1ension is epntinued until the fiher hreaks、The louad at that point is called the
breaking load or breaking lors.Tthe units for measuring breaking foree inrdlade pounds,grums,
and NewIons or millinewtoms,abbreviated 1bf,pf,N,and mN,respetively,
Ta cDmpare the breaking strengths of alerizls of v洗rying sizes,it is necessary to express
breaking lnad in termms of the dimensions of the matesial being tested. When relatively large
material sprksirmens are tesled, the comparieon may be tnade baed on the cro*s-sectional area of
the unstrainer specien;it is expressel as pund-force per square inch or gram-force per square
mil]imeler.'lThese are unit for expeeeeing the tengile strength of materials—that is,the maxitnum
resistance of the material to deformation in a tensile test carried to ruptre,expressed in force per
unit of sro0ss-sectional area of the unstrained epecitmen.
3.Tenacly
lndiviual fiber have very small c:ros9-sexc:tional areas,8o with them the comventional units for
lensile strength normally are not used. lnstead,breaking strenglh is expresed in lerms of the
linu;ar dcnsity of a malerial—that is,the mass or weight per unit length、Two common units of
fib:r linear density are denier(mass in grams of 9,000 meters of material)and tex(mass in
grams of 1,000 meters of material)、The tensile stress expressed as force per unit of linear densily
of the unstrained matrial is the tenucily,or speceific stress,of the material。 The units for
expressing teracity include gram-force per denier(g/al or gf/d)and millinewtons per tex(mN/1).
97
(Y “”“。‘论一“宁
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4.Fiexibilt
'The alility of a fiber to resist repeated bernding or howing wihout rpture is flexibility ar
pliatsility. Many Taterials have fibraus form that would not make practical textile fbers because
they lack the flexibility to withstand the repealel benling recquired in the manufachure of a yarn pr
falhric.
Flexilility also is inportant in end-us; pe:rlormance because it influe:nce the hand and drapixg
qualily of textiles for Apparel and horow furtishings and permits [abrics to be creased without
rupuring. Industrial fabriw'sfor autonobile seat belts aad fan belts,which are subjected ti
repeated bhending,also require flexible fihers.
5. CohesiveneSS
With the currenUL rt11hole of yam formalion and diret fiter-to-fabeic production,staple iber
nust be alble to adhere to each olher or cling 1togr1her. lhis propery is known as cohesivenes or
spinning vp1ality.'lhe surfuce sontpurs of fibers diretlly affect cohe:sivches.
Cohesiveness is less importan1 for filanent fibers than or staple fibers,because the length of
filamenls pr:rnits them tu be lwisteid together tu lorm yarns. It is important,however, that these
filamepty tlo not repel one unisther.
Cohiesiveness of fibers alfects yarn finerke9s and evenRcisi.In tnrm,guch properties s yarn
strength,fahric: thickness,surface contour,and durability are ultimately affected.
6.Unilorm
Fibers tat ate similar in lungth,strength,fineness,cohesiveness,anl flexibility,can be
processed toge:ther with le99 dhifficulty than lissimilar fhers, Fibers conformning to the sume
spee;ilic:ations for theye praoperties are said to exhibit uniformity,One of the positive attributes of
manmade fibers is that they car le produced to exaut specificaticns,so they will be of the sarme
length。stcength,and fineyie88 and acept dyes and finishes evenly. Fibers mamufaclured in the
same prdu;ticon nun or lot are virtually ilentical. Suceh a lot i usually designated by an
iderntification number, relerredl to us 技 rnerge number,that can be traced to a specific
tiunfaeturing fasvilily and a spe1:ific batch of chemicals.
Natural fi)ers,berause they are producetd under so many dlifferent conditions,are mur
varialble. To provide 8somse uufonmnity,it is necessary to combite or blend fibcrs from several los,
Today,it is common t run laboratory tests 1o measure fiber properties as an aid to blending fbers
in rnanufacturing provesses.A blenl uf particular length,strength,and finenes may be specified
luo rerluce later problens in prouessing.
Fiber uniformity also hecomes important when manufacturers want to blend different generic
fiber groupe.Polyester fibers can be produced to be cornpatible with wool or cotton.When more
than two fibers are blendel, uniformity betxmes even more: important.
窝
Appendix 2 Specialty Hair Fibers
Hair and wool fbers from animals other than sheep are u5ually refered to ws specialy hair
fibere. These products of the goat andl carel families are by no neans inferior to wool, nar are
they limited in their uses. The tem"specialty"aros: because of their scarcity.
1.Coshmere
The fire down(wool)that grows under the cvars: outer hair of the Kashmir goat is known as
cashmere.China and Indlia produce most of the corrimervial iher.'The down is comledl frorn thu
animal in the spring and! surmer,洗nd yields are estimated to be alxoul 250g per animal.Suc∶h a
small yield can nnly be jue1ified by 装 superior quality of fiber.
Cashmere w0ool fibers are between 2 and 10 sm long,may be white,pale brown,or gray,and
somewhat finer than sheep's wool. 1he tenacity,gtreteh,and elastieity are esentially the sRme as
for ordinary wool,but berause of its smller diameter,vashmere is much gofteT.Usedl exclusively
in apparel,this luxury fiber makes fabrics that are soft,warrn,and lustrous,and have exellent
tdrape、
2. Mohair
While the shexp has been bred to maxi:mizr: wool ptoduction,the Angora goar has beeat breal
for its long,lastroue hair,called mohair. Before the Industrial Revolution,mohair was almost
exclusivcly ohtained fromn Turkey. However,intrvduction of the Angpra goat into Texas and
California near the end of the nineteenth century ledl to a thriving industry.Today, the United
States is the major producer and user of mohair.
Mohair is very similar in physical and cherical structure to wnol.Fihers rang fron 10 cm to
30 cm in length,are coverexd by Acales,and poses a natural crimp.The scales on mohair are
flatter than those on wool,so thet the fiber has a smDother band. In addition,mohair is finer than
mnost wool,and rnore tipghtly eurled. [t is equivslent to wool in strength,elasticity and dyeability.
Mubait is exceptionally resistent to abrasion and is yery durale. fts ight cur provides
interesting ethetics in conplex falric cnstructions.The major uses includle sweaters,suait and
uphelstery. It is often blended with wol,
3.Camel Hlair
Ihe family Camelidae,along with gxals,is the other mnajor soure ol pecialty bhair flher. This
small family of arnitmal has two branches,the Old Wond camel and luc lama.'lhe carmel branch is
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Appendix 3 Textured Yarns
The pruduction of tman-made fibers resuls in filament yarns that are very smooth and strong.
rwever, these yarns have a limnitedl asout of stretch,very low bulk, and practically ro
hiciness; al these factors are important in defning the camfort of garments,For thesr reasots
manufacturers developed technique9 far impraovig the comfart potential of their yarns.
Texiuringy incrense the potemial elnguLion of yarns by ennverting the slraighl filaments into
variouscrimped or curled configurations.Thus,eloth made from these yarns stretches more and
allows greaier freedlom of motion Lo the wearer.Texrurirg also inerexst' the: bulkiness of yurns;Ihe
hulkier varns yield nf fabrivs that havs: an imuproved ability to Lrap air,so cloth rmade fron these
yama1s is wantber
Te air and mois1ure permealbility of the cloth is increaser.In the absence of wind,air is
trapped within the yarns aror prowides warmth.However,hecause the 6laumets of the yarns are
setaraled by the texturing proces8,a breze can penetralte the cloth. The overall :ffect of tezturing
is to make the eloult fel warther in winter and c:0ol r irs susnner.
By crimping or curling the filamnts,texturing allows the filament yarns to feel mor- !ike:
sn yarns.The hairines o he spun varn is approximatel Iy the proiectioins of the lxvps and the
curve8 of te crimps,The cloth does not lie lul against the skin,but is supported ly these
projecticans. The garments provide a more plcasant taclile sensation te the wearer.
In auklition 1n its effect on cornfort, Lxturing also provides suhjertive improvemcul to the
finished clath.'The bulkier yar8 give the cloth a fmmer lody. lhus,garmeaLs io rot hang
limply,but fali in pleasing fald.'hhe hand is irproved. Consumers report a more pleasant,
warner,kss synthetic feel to clth after the yarns have been textured. The appearaner of the
goods is improwel.Light reflection is mure diffuse,giving the cloth a nuted luster and a more
attractive apeurarR:e.
Ease uf Tnaintenance is affected in two ways.The textured yarns, being rxre elaslic than the
unireated filament yarnis, proved improved wrinkle resisLance.However,since: the ilaments ur
geuerally pruxduceal from wrinkle-resistunt fle:ra,this effecl is smal.Of greater importance is the
tendeney of texture√ yurns to soil more readlily,hercause they are more open und provide a eorer
surface than auntexturel yarns.
The abrasion resistance of textured yarns is slighuy decreaset,heteuse the ilaments are
rats:d rom each other.The: individua] flamenfs cainot aid each other a r-alily in resisting
abrasive fon:es,sb individual fibers ar: more: easily broken.
In sum。textured yaras improve the comfort and apparance of cloth prejparedl frm them. This
107
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TG2
Appendix 4 Mechanical Bonding
Mec:hanical hronding is the oldest method of producing nonwovens,it entangles fbers to impart
strength bo dry-laid wehs. The mst commom mechanical methvds are needle punching and
sputnlacing,alko t:alled hydroentaπgling.
1.Needle Punching
In needle punching,barbed needlles are punehed vertically through the web to hook and
eniangle tufts of fber. Needle-punched nunwoven resemble felt in appearance,lut they are mede
primarily from fibers other than wool.Characterizcd by high density cotmbined with some butk,
they are available in weights fiom 50 to 285 grams and in thickRes froro 15 t 160 mils.
Two basic steps are irivolved in the construction of needle-punching nanwovens:
(1)The Fiber web,nr batt,prepared by either carding,gamveting,ar ir-laying techniques,
is fed into a machine wih specially designed needles.
(2)The batt meves on a substrate betwen a metal bed plate and a stripyer plate; the needles
puneh through the pla1tes and the fiber web,reorienting the fibers so that mecshamical interlocking
or bonding occ:urs arnong the individual fib"r9,
The sulstrate muy lbe filumertls,a ecrim,or some other fom.Placement of the substrate in
the middle of the fiher web impmves the strength and structural integrity of the finished ncedle-
prunched fabri:.
The strength of needle-pinched fabrics alau depends on the fiber arrangement within the
wel. Tf fibers are placed parallel to each other,the finished falbrix: will have goud sIrength in that
direetion,but will tend to be weak in -・the opposite direction. lf the fbers are in a rundom
arrangement,strength is equlal in all rirections. A twn-step process first tackes the web with 30 to
60 punches per square inch and then punches with 800 to more thar 2500 penelrations per square
inch.The higher mumber of punches is used for fabrics such as blankets,which are expected to he
subjexted to tonsiderable hantlling during use and care.
The properties of neelle-punched Eabrics depend on the length and characteristics of the fiber
or filers,the physieml prupertie of the web, and the techniques used to produce the weh.Most
needled fabrics lack eny aIructural pattern bes:ause ihe needles punch and intermingle the fbets in
such a random way that the fabric surface appears uniform. Needle-punched fabrics produced weith
a modi5ed neede bed anal needles that penetrate beyond the surface to torm lorps on the back can
be made to resenble lop pile,velour,or velveteen.The loop either are left pncut or are cut anr
brushed to give the surface appearance of the pile-woven fabric.
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Neede-punched fabrics frequently are found in carpeting aml other floor coverings,walJ
coverings,blunkets,padding malerial,insulation materials,industrial fbrics,and fabrics for
vehicles,
2.Hydroentangling
In bydroentanging or epurn lacing,the fihrous web is smbjeu:tesl to hig-velocity waler je1s to
entangle the fibers,cauing them lo curl and knot anmound each other.These materials are
produced wihout a hinder, resulting in lightweight,soft,and drapable spun-lace fabrics. The
Ne:xusi fabrics by Burlington,available in several patters that can be dyed or printed, best typify
山his group. Some of these falbrirs are wushahle,others are dry-cleaneble.Fahrics range in weight
frum 0.7 to 2.2 ounces per square yand and in tickness frorn 3.5 Lu 25 mils、Typical end uses
include quil-backing fabrics,mattres pad ticking,sutbstrates for cnated fabrics of variouis types,
interlining,eurtains,tahle coverings,and selected items of apparel.Alihough most of the spun-
laced fabrics ort the market are made of polyester, it is possible, to use other fihers.
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Appendix 5 Care Label
Two basic sy31ertY8 o eare labeling ar curemly lwing used:the writen instruc:tion svstem for
apparel in the United Stales,and the care seymbol sysdem that is being used in much aof the rest of
the world.At this writing,several counlries(inu:hning the Ilmited States)have mundatory care
labeling w apparel,and the Lnied Staies has rnandatory labeling of apparel piece goorl,but no
mandatory laheling exisis for cther types of textile proxu:18.Care labeling of furniture uphoalstery,
carpets and rugs,draperies,urud industral texile productg ie not required.
矿 :心”“丹、
1.BackgroUnd
Tn 1969,the Federal Trade Commission begun hearings on the need for the establishment of 生
1rade regalation rule pertaining w the eare labeling of textile producls. The final rule was
prorulgated in December 1971 with un efTective date of July 3,1972. Substanial changes were
rnante in 1983、and the amended regulation was called as 16 CFR 423、Care Iabeling of 'Textile
Wearing Apparel aund Certain Piece Coods;it became efective on July 4,1984.
During the original hearings,testimony fewm many expert witnesses indicated that the
tecehnoluogical changes that had oxcurred iu the apparel and cleaning industres had had a
sigrificant Affert on the care of Lextile products.'lhey agreed that the lage number of prodlucts on
the market,each with different care performance chatacleristics,had mue it almost impossible for
constumers to be well informed about the care of textile products.The traditional source of care
information had been personal experience based on trial and error,but now the consumer had ta he
provided with adequate information on care at ihe time of purchaae of a new textile producl.
'Traditionally,retail store personnel had served as a uelul surce of care information.
Witnesses pointed out that retuil empluyees no longer had the ability to pravide care infornation.
Furtbermore, the rapid expansion of self-service retailing male it impractical to rely on store
employeeg ae a source of information.
2. The FTC Rule
The Trade Regulation Rule busically states that,i is an unfair methord of competition and an
unfair ur deceplive act or practice to sell,in comnerce,any textilk: produet in the fortu oM a
finished article of wearing appaxel,or piece goods made for the purpoe of immediate conversion
by the ulimale comsumer into a finished article of wearing apparel,which is not accompanies by a
105
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r ・。sr1C・F 6
ualbel or tag which cleady discLnses instructions for the care and maintenance of such products.
Hoth namufactureN in he Lnited Stares and importers ave covered by the regulalion.
Several exemptionis are clc-frved in the publishcd rulec:
(1) Totally revrsible wearing apparel withnu1 pockets.
(2)PvuducLs whe-re appearance or usefulness would be harmed if the label were attachel,and
the manufactwrr o the prpdast speeifically request an cxerption for that prowluct.
(3)For items exempt under" a" and"b",the consumer rust be provided with a
conspicuous hang lag or packege labeling which can hk! sevn be[ore buying thie product.
(4)Whcn items may he eleaned sately unler the harshes1 procedures and there is reliable
prowif thal all of the following washing and dry-cleaning pruc:edures may be used on the product;
L: Machine washiBg in hot water;
②Machine drying a1t a high setting;
3)lrorying a1 a hot s4:tting;
④:Bleacbing wi al]vcumnmercially available? hleaches;
(⑤Try clraning with all cummerc:ially available solvents.
(5)Prowluets sold to institulional buyers for cornuneri;ial use.
'The maruulaclurer or imporer must establish a reasonable basis for care informatiDn. They
mst have reliahble rvidenx:e that the procelures recommended on the label will nol harm the item.
That evirlense may consist uf current technieal literature,past experience,a record that A [air
garple of the proluct was tested, or other reliable information.
For the purpowe of this rule,a care label is defined as"a permanent labe]or wg, eontaining
regular care information and in?trus∶tions,that is attached or affixed in such a mamrer that it wil
not become separaled from the product and will rerain legible during the useful life of the
pruduct"。
Certain pece goods mean" textile proudute sold by the piccs frm bolte or rolle for the
pupoae of mnking home sewn textile wearing apparel. This includes remnants,the fiber conitert of
which is known, that are cut by or for a retailer but does not include manufacturers'Temnants,up
to 10 yardis long,that are clearly and conspicuously marked pownd'goods'or fabrics of
undeternined origin'and rim, up to 5 inches wide".
Textile wearing apparel means"any finished garment or article of clothing made from a textile
product that is customarily uBed to cover or protect any part of the hody,including hosiery,
excluding foMwear,gloves,hats ur other articles used exclusively to eover or prolect the head or
hands"。
In general,lubela for textile wearing oprparel musl have either washing or a dry-cleaning
instnction.IT a product tnay be either washed or dry-cleaned,the label has to have only one of the
instructions.If the product cannoL be eleanexd by any available clcaning method without being
hatvnex,the labe] muet give that jinforuuation.
Washing instrucliors include descriptions of washing,drying, ironing,4nd hleaching,If any
200
A牛∶Pdv、。Care,Lxulel
part of the washing procedure that the consumer can be reasonably expected tn use would harm the
pteduet ur any other items being washed with it,the label rmust epntain a wamming to this effec:t.
Clear warniag wrurdls are" Dh nol","nu",ard" orly". Warnings are not aecessary for any
procedure that is an alerTuative to the one describers wn the lubel.For example,if a lalel says,
"Try,fat",it is not nexceseury 1o give the warning"Do not tumble dry".
'he tetcm: used in washing instructions must adhere tn specific guidelines outlined in the
regulalions.The label must state whether the proxluc:t shul be wnshecl by hand or machine and
give the water temperature that may be used.If the regular use of hot water(up to 150 F)will not
har the pruduct,the label need not mention amy water temperature. Tue Lerm"ruac:hine wush"
reans a process by which soil is removed fromn products in a specially designed machine using
water,dlelergent or soup , urud agituLion.
Drying instrucziwns must inditc2t whether the product should be dried by machine or some
other method. If machine drying is called for. the label must state a drying, temperature that may
be used unless the use of a high temperalure will not harn the product.Ironing must be meetioned
on a label only if it will he needed on a regular baeis to preserve the appearance of a product.If a
pradant:t will Lk; harmed ly ironing, the Label shoulc state"Do nat iron".If ironing is mentioned
anu ro temperature is given,it is Assumet that the regular use of a hot iron will nut hurr the
product.
If all commercially availahle bleuches may be used,the label need not mention bleaching. If
commercially available bleaches would harm the prwluct,the lalvel must say"No bleach"or"Do
not bleach".If the use of chlorine bleach would harn the produet,but nonr:hlorine bleach wquld
not,the label omusl say"pnly nonchlorine bleach wben needed".
Dry eleaning means"a commereial process by which soil is removed from produclx or
specimcns in a machinr which uses cummon urganic solvent(e. g.,petroleum,perchlorethylene,
fluorocarbon).'lhe process may include alding moisture to the ?vent,up Lo 75 pereent relative
bumidity,hut tunble: urying up to 160 F`and restoration by steam press sr steam-air finishing."
f a dry-cleaning insimuctin is given,the label wusL stale at leist wue lye of solvent that may
hr usecl unles all commercially available solvemts may be used,in which case the label need] not
mention a type.The terms"dry-cleanalle"and "eornrercially dry-clean"may not be used in1 an
inettuction. The term"professionally dry-clean"ruay be used to ensure optirnum results either by
a dry-cleaning attendant or thcugh the use of a dry-cleaning machine that permits solvent
mXolificalions,or both.
A warning must be given against using any part of the dry-clcaning proredure(that ronsumers
or dry cleaners coul rasonably be expected to use)thet would harm the product or others being
cleune with it.For example,ifa product can he 4lry-c;leaned in any solvent but steam should not
be usedt,the label should state"Professionaly dry-clean. No steam."
3. Synopsis
It is important to rerwemiver,when reading an FTC-required carc lahel,that
1O7
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(1)0nly the washing or dr-cleaning proces specified in the instruction has been checked for
safe wse.
(2)If no temperalure is mentioned,it is safe to use ary temperature ur seting-
(3)If no ironing instruc!lion is given,it should not be necessary to iron the prduct.
(4)lf bleach is not mentioned,any type of hleach may be used.
(5)If no wamings are given,ibere is no need to make adjustmemts to thecare process given
on the lalkel.
A comnon complaint from consumers regards the ongoing use a what is termned"low-level
labeling".Carments crontinue to he labeled"Dry-lean"when a washing proceulure would no
arversely affeet them;or"Hand wash,warm"is used when the garment cruld be machine washed
safelyThe mamufacturer is rerpuired to attach a Jabe] for a"safe"care instruction,and many of
them prefer to provide a label thet gives the procedure least likely to produce damage.
纪飞冠心飞体心污下己产冲
The International Stundards Organization(ISO)has rerommended the international adoption
of a systetn of care symlols to replacxe written instructions.W/here apparel is manufactured in a
country,speaking one Language and soldl in countries speaking other languages,such a system of
symlhols is helpful. Bilingual rountries and regions fnd symlols easier to deal wih than
insIructions written in two languages.Currently ,the. Federal Trade Commission doe not recognize
the nse of care symbols as an appropriat: method of carc labeling in the United States.
The symbols that have been adopted for use in other countries are shown in Figure I6..
Many resident of the United StatC6 purchase clthes made abroad that contain hese label3.lt is
difficult to understarsd the svmbols bexause they are seldom explained it consumer publications in
the United State, In areas where the symbols are used routinely,however,laundry product
containers andl wdshing machine inelude explanations of the symbols.
T08
Ap-0E+C.入 Care Lahel
”
ach bf wbich is variahle. cir*utnstuandves,thc eirncle containing P 《r F may tw
'The washing Prces A nunbr an a nderlianr. This iulicule lhat *prxsial prredune are
5 ,indirzates
itetnpreralure in tae wash tuub svmtxol rcquired as ihecse goods are sensilijvte to dry rhaning.
that be artick:c:an hw: waslueal
aof-ly eiuler Iny nsr hinc nir hand. The Normal goods dry cleanable jn all solven1s
fgure which spxvears ahye the wAerlin in the ub cleaniiu
|represetls tbe hll wushing prteen and the figure bclow
the weterlixC reprcent the water lemperalure.'The P Naormnal gouda dry clcanahle
pexchlopehyiene, wlite spirit,Solvent 112
ir
109: