Tm hiu chung v cc loi si v cu to.

1. Gii thiu v BISFA

Bureau International pour la Standardisation des Fibres Artificielles (ting Php)
vit tt l BISFA l Hip hi ton cu ca cc nh sn xut si nhn to. BISFA
c thnh lp vo nm 1928 c nhim v nh ngha cc thut ng, tn gi cho
cc dng si nhn to, thng nht cc tn gi gia cc cng ty, khch hng v
ngi tiu dng. BISFA thit lp cc chun k thut cho cc dng t, si nhn to
cho cc thnh vin trong hi tin vic giao dch v hnh thnh cc phng php
kim nghim cho si nhn to v khung chun k thut gia ngi mua v ngi
bn cc dng si ny.
Di y ln lt t tri qua phi s l:
*Tn si nhn to, K t,
(BISFA 2009)
-Acetate CA Lyocell CLY
-Acrylic PAN Melamine MF
-Alginate ALG Metal MTF
-Aramid AR Modacrylic MAC
-Carbon CF Modal CMD
-Ceramic CEF Polyamide PA
-Chlorofibre CLF Polyester PES
-Cupro CUP Polyethylene PE
-Elastane EL Polyimide PI
-Elastodiene ED Polylactide PLA
-Elastomultiester EME
-Polypropylene PP
-Elastolefin EOL Triacetate CTA
-Fluorofibre PTFE Viscose CV
-Glass GF Vinylal PVAL
*Tn si thin nhin, K t, Tn si lng th, K t
- Alfa (Esparto grass) AL Alpaca WP
- Cotton CO Angora WA
- Mauritius fibre FI Camel WK
- Flax LI Rabbit hair W
-Hemp HA Kashgora WSA
-Henequen HE Kashmir WS
-Jute JU Llama WL
-Kapok KP Mohair WM
-Kenaf KE Cow hair HR
-Coir (cocconut) CC Horse hair HS
-Abac (Manila hemp) AB Silk SE
-Phormium NF Tussah silk ST
-Ramie RA Vicuna WG
-Roselle JS Wool WO
-Sisal SI Yak WY
-Sunn hemp SN Goat hair HZ
-Urena JR
T bng k kiu v tn gi trn chng ta c th i chiu v bit c thnh phn
ca si l t nhin hay nhn to.
2. Gii thiu v cc loi si
Si bng cotton
Si bng c lm t cy si bng mt ging cy trng rt lu i. Trong ngnh
may mc v ch bin ngi ta phn bit cc loi bng trc tin theo chiu di ca
si, sau n mi, mu v sch ca cun si. Si bng cng di th cng c
cht lng cao.
Si bng l loi si thin nhin c kh nng ht/ thm nc rt cao; si bng c
th thm nc n 65% so vi trng lng. Si bng c khuynh hng dnh bn v
dnh du m, d vy c th git sch c. Si bng thn thin vi da ngi
(khng lm nga) v khng to ra cc nguy c d ng vic khin cho si bng tr
thnh nguyn liu quan trng trong ngnh dt may.
Si bng khng ha tan trong nc, khi m hoc t s do dai hn khi kh ro.
Si bng bn i vi cht km, nhng khng bn i vi acid v c th b vi sinh
vt phn hy. D vy kh nng chu c mi mt v cc cn trng khc rt cao.
Si bng d chy nhng c th nu trong nc si tit trng.
Lnh vc chnh ca si bng l vic ng dng trong ngnh may mc. Ngoi ra, si
bng cn c dng lm thnh phn trong cc cht liu tng hp.
Si len wool
Len hay si len l mt loi si dt thu c t lng cu v mt s loi ng vt
khc, nh d, lc Len cung cp nguyn liu dt, an, ch to cc loi o len
l mt hng o gi m thng dng trn th gii, nht l nhng nc c kh hu
lnh. Len c mt s ph phm c nguyn gc t tc hoc da lng, len c kh nng
n hi v gi khng kh v gi nhit tt. Len b t chy nhit cao hn bng
v mt s si tng hp.
Ngi ta sn xut len bng dng c quay cc si lng cu li vi nhau hay bn li
thnh mt lin kt si. Cht lng ca len c xc nh bi ng knh si, qu
trnh un, nng sut, mu sc, v bn trong ng knh si l cht lng
quan trng nht xc nh c tnh v gi c.
La T tm
C 4 loi t tm t nhin, t ca tm du l loi c sn xut nhiu chim 95%
sn lng trn th gii. Si t tm c tn vinh l N Hong ca ngnh dt mc
d sn lng si t sn xut ra thp hn nhiu so vi cc loi si khc nh: bng,
ay, gai nhng n vn chim v tr quan trng trong ngnh dt, n t m mu
sc hng u th gii v mt thi trang t tm.
c im ch yu ca t l chiu di t n v mnh t. Si t c th ht m, b
nh hng bi nc nng, axit, baz, mui kim loi, cht nhum mu. Mt ct
ngang si t c hnh dng tam gic vi cc gc trn. V c hnh dng tam gic nn
nh sng c th ri vo nhiu gc khc nhau, si t c v ng nh t nhin.
La l mt loi vi mn, mng c dt bng t. Loi la tt nht c dt t t
tm. Ngi cm c th cm nhn c v mn v mt m ca la khng ging nh
cc loi vi dt t si nhn to. Qun o bng la rt thch hp vi thi tit nng v
hot ng nhiu v la d thm m hi. Qun o la cng thch hp cho thi tit
lnh v la dn nhit km lm cho ngi mc m hn.
Polyester (PES)
Polyester l mt loi si tng hp vi thnh phn cu to c trng l ethylene
(ngun gc t du m). Qu trnh ha hc to ra cc polyester hon chnh c gi
l qu trnh trng hp. C bn dng si polyester c bn l si filament, x, si
th, v fiberfill.
Polyester c ng dng nhiu trong ngnh cng nghip sn xut cc loi sn
phm nh qun o, ni tht gia dng, vi cng nghip, vt liu cch in Si
Polyester c nhiu u th hn khi so snh vi cc loi si truyn thng l khng
ht m, nhng hp th du. Chnh nhng c tnh ny lm cho Polyester tr
thnh mt loi vi hon ho i vi nhng ng dng chng nc, chng bi v
chng chy. Kh nng hp th thp ca Polyester gip n t chng li cc vt bn
mt cch t nhin. Vi Polyester khng b co khi git, chng nhn v chng ko
dn. N cng d dng c nhum mu v khng b hy hoi bi nm mc. Vi
Polyester l vt liu cch nhit hiu qu, do n c dung sn xut gi, chn,
o khoc ngoi v ti ng.
Elastane (EL) Spandex
Elastane, vng bc M ngi ta gi l Spandex, ti cc quc gia khc c gi l
Elastane, l si nhn to. Elastane l mt khi co-polymer bao gm Polyurethane
v Polyethylene glycol. Urethane to thnh cc on , dn xp thnh hng kt
ni vi nhau bng lc valency to thnh loi si ny.
Elastane c c tnh l kh nng ko dn cao; t 500 n 700%, gi hnh dng lu
di, t thm hi m, khng tch in, khng to x hay tht nt trn b mt, nh,
trn v d nhum. Loi si ny c co dn cao, tng t nh cao su nhng chc
v bn hn.
Vi nhng c tnh trn Elastane c dng lm qun o c co dn cao hoc
va vn m ly c th. Cc loi ny thng l qun o th dc th thao, qun o
chng nng, lt, v tt, qun o tm thoi mi hn ngi ta thng trn
ln si Elastane vi cc loi si khc (th d 80% Polyamide (Nylon) v 20%
Elastane) cho ra sn phm thch hp.
Polyamide (PA) Nylon
Nylon (ha hc: Polyhexamethylen adipin acid amide) l loi si nhn to u
tin c sn xut ra t Carbon, nc v khng kh.
Nhiu ngi cho rng t Nylon xut pht t N Y (New York) v Lon (London), l
cc ni m Nylon c sn xut ln u tin. Ngoi ra cn c mt gii thch khc
cho tn Nylon l nh pht minh ra cht liu ny, Wallace Carothers vui mng
v thnh cng v ku ln Now You Lousy Old Nipponese, hoc l Now You Look
Old Nippon, s vui mng v cui cng cng lm ra c mt sn phm c th
cnh tranh vi sn phm t la thin nhin. V ngi ta ly nhng ch ci u
gi l Nylon.
Polypropylen (PP)
Polypropylen l mt loi polymer l sn phm ca phn ng trng hp Propylen.
Polypropylen c tnh bn c hc cao (bn x v bn ko t), kh cng vng,
khng mm do nh PE, khng b ko gin di do c ch to thnh si. c
bit kh nng b x rch d dng khi c mt vt ct hoc mt vt thng nh.
PolyPropylen trong sut, bng b mt cao cho kh nng in n cao, nt in r. PP
chu c nhit cao hn 100oC, c tnh cht chng thm oxy, hi nc, du m
v cc kh khc.
Vi c tnh trn, PP c dng lm bao b mt lp cha ng bo qun thc
phm, lng thc, ng cc. PP cng c sn xut dng mng ph ngoi i vi
mng nhiu lp tng tnh chng thm kh, hi nc, to kh nng in n cao, v
d x rch m bao b (do c to sn mt vt t) v to bng cao cho bao b.
Acetate (CA)
Acetate l t dng gi si t cht liu cellulose acetate. Cellulose-Acetate c tnh
do cao, nhng khng bn v b h hi trong cc loi acid, c bit cc loi acid v
c nh Sulfuric acid, cng nh cc cht km.
Cellulose acetate c dng lm si ch bin thnh vi. Vi cht liu ny nhn
rt ging la thin nhin (nn acetate cn gi l la nhn to) v to cm gic cng
ging nh vy. Cht liu ny t nhn, d chm sc, t b trng n, t thm nc.
Vi tnh cht trn, CA thng c dng lm o ma, d che, s mi, o ph n, o
m, vi lt, vi may c vt, lt ph n V khng chu c cht km nn
trnh dng cc loi bt git (ty) c km cao vi loi si ny. bo qun
bng nh la, vi Cellulose-Acetate ch nn git vi nc m v ch nn i mt
trong ca qun o lc cn ang m.
Polyetylen (PE)
Polyetylen l mt hp cht hu c (poly) gm nhiu nhm etylen (C2H4) lin kt
nhau. Polyetylen mu trng, hi trong, khng dn in v khng dn nhit, khng
cho nc v kh thm qua.
Polyetylen khng tc dng vi cc dung dch axt, kim, thuc tm v nc brm.
nhit cao hn 70oC PE ha tan km trong cc dung mi nh toluen, xilen,
amilacetat, tricloetylen, du thng, du khong D nhit cao, PE cng
khng th ha tan trong nc, trong cc loi ru bo, aceton, te etylic, glicerin
v cc loi du tho mc.
Viscose (CV) Rayon
Viscose c to ra t nhng vt liu c ngun gc cellulose (bt g, vi vn) v
tri qua qu trnh x l to thnh si vi, v vy, v bn cht, viscose hon ton
tng t nh cotton, ch khc bit 1 s tnh cht vt l v ho hc.
Trong qui trnh sn xut Viscose cc phn t cellulose nguyn thy c kt cu
li. Viscose v th c gi l si ti to v c xp vo dng si ha hc.
Cu trc tinh th trong viscose nh hn cotton 4 5 ln v mc nh hng
thp hn. Si viscose yu hn si cotton. Si viscose s tr nn mm hn v do
hn khi b t. bn viscose khi t thp hn 50% khi kh. V c mc tinh
th ho thp v mc chu tc ng cao nn viscose d b phng ln khi t v
n ra trn 20%.
Si t viscose bng hn cotton v thn c hnh tr trn hn cotton. Viscose phn
ng vi cht ho hc nhanh hn cotton v phn ng c trong nhng iu kin m
cotton t ra kh bn nh dung dch kim c lnh hay long nng.
Si CM / Si CD
L si 100% cotton chi k (si CM); 100% cotton chi th (CD). Si ny ht m
tt, d chu khi tip xc vi da ngi. Thng dng dt cc loi vi mm, lt.
Si TCM / Si TCD (Tetron cotton)
TC l si vi thnh phn bao gm 65 % PE v 35 % cotton chi k (TCM); 65 %
PE, 35 % cotton chi th (TCD). Si ny d d chu khi tip xc vi da ngi, chu
l (i) phng, git d sch v chng kh, ph hp dt vi o qun.
Si CVC (Chief Value of Cotton)
L si vi thnh phn chnh l cotton; v d CVC 65% cotton v 35% PE. Vi si
pha ny mang tnh cht ca c hai loi si cu thnh nn n l si cotton v PE.
Si TR (Tetron Rayon)
L si vi thnh phn bao gm PE v Viscose; v d TR 65 % PE v 35 % Viscose.
Vi si pha ny mang tnh cht ca c hai loi si cu thnh nn n l si PE v si
Viscose.
Si c Bit
L si pha gia hai hoc nhiu thnh phn nguyn liu acrylic, cotton, viscose,
nylon
(St v chnh sa by c