Professional Documents
Culture Documents
METACOGNITION CORNER
•
What do you already know about this topic?
•
How do you feel about this topic? (excited, anxious, curious, nervous)
•
How does this topic relate to something you already know?
•
What questions do you already have about this topic?
Activate Study the diagram below. Why are coastal areas important to humans?
Tourism
Trade
COAST: Land close or next to the sea/ocean
The Cross Section of a Wave
ACTIVITY: Apply the keywords below to the correct place on the diagram.
KEYWORDS DEFINITIONS
Trough The lowest part of the wave.
Crest The highest part of the wave.
Wavelength The distance between two successive crests.
Circular motion Waves have a circular orbit or motion.
Wave height The vertical difference between the trough and crest.
Still water level The level the sea would be at if there was no wind and therefore no waves.
The Cross Section of a Wave
Wave Building
What makes waves?
between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of
Swash- The rush of seawater up the beach after the breaking of a wave.
Backwash- When water runs back down the beach due to gravity.
Wind speed- If the wind speed is greater than the wave speed then energy will be transferred from
the wind to the wave. The higher the wind speed the greater the transfer of energy and the more
destructive the wave will be.
Duration of wind- The longer the wind blows, the more time it will have to transfer energy and
build waves.
The Fetch- The distance travelled over open water by a wave before it hits a coastline. The larger the
fetch, the larger the wave.
A map to show waves hitting the coastline of the UK
Which area (A,B,C,D) is likely to receive the highest
proportion of destructive waves? Explain your answer.
Wind speed
Duration of wind
The Fetch
A map to show waves hitting the coastline of the UK
Which area (A,B,C,D) is likely to receive the highest proportion of destructive waves?
Explain your answer.
Location A due to the large size of the fetch (6500km) which gives the wave the
opportunity to build over time. Furthermore, average wind speed is high at 24 knots,
therefore this energy will transfer from wind to wave.
Which area (A,B,C,D) is likely to receive the highest proportion of constructive waves?
Explain your answer.
Debatable between location C and D due to the small size of the fetch (under 800km)
which does not give the wave the opportunity to build over time. Furthermore, average
wind speeds at both locations are low, under 15 knots.
Where would you choose to locate a surfer training centre (A,B,C,D)? Explain your
answer.
Maybe location B? Waves are likely to be relatively large due to wind speeds and fetch.
However, not too overpowering like at location D.
Where would you choose to locate an ocean power plant that generates energy from
waves (A,B,C,D)? Explain your answer.
Location A is likely to experience large, powerful waves. The wind direction is the most
consistent (25%) from this direction, so energy production would benefit from this.
Where would you choose to locate a new tourist resort (A,B,C,D)? Explain your answer.
Debatable between location C and D. Constructive waves help to build beaches and they
are more pleasant for casual swimmers.
Review A
1. How many different types of
wave can you name?
Articles/Weblinks
Ocean Waves- Ducksters