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Ocean Waves

Constructive and Destructive


Key Understandings
1. Ocean waves vary in size, height, length, frequency, and
energy.

2. The type of ocean wave depends on the wind speed,


wind duration, and fetch.

3. There are two types of ocean wave; constructive and


destructive. Constructive waves deposit material
whereas destructive waves remove material.

METACOGNITION CORNER

What do you already know about this topic?

How do you feel about this topic? (excited, anxious, curious, nervous)

How does this topic relate to something you already know?

What questions do you already have about this topic?
Activate Study the diagram below. Why are coastal areas important to humans?

Industry Settlement- large cities Defense and protection

Tourism

Why are coasts


important?

Leisure and recreation Fishing- food supply

Trade
COAST: Land close or next to the sea/ocean
The Cross Section of a Wave

ACTIVITY: Apply the keywords below to the correct place on the diagram.
KEYWORDS DEFINITIONS
Trough The lowest part of the wave.
Crest The highest part of the wave.
Wavelength The distance between two successive crests.
Circular motion Waves have a circular orbit or motion.
Wave height The vertical difference between the trough and crest.
Still water level The level the sea would be at if there was no wind and therefore no waves.
The Cross Section of a Wave
Wave Building
What makes waves?

Waves are created by energy passing through water, causing it to

move in a circular motion. However, water does not actually travel in

waves. Waves pass energy, not water, across the ocean.

Waves are created by the


wind. Energy is transferred
from wave to wave in a
circular motion.

Ocean Waves are caused by wind. They are created by the friction

between wind and surface water. As wind blows across the surface of

the ocean the continual disturbance creates a wave crest. 


Wave Building
What makes some waves bigger and more powerful than others?
Characteristics of Ocean Waves

Swash- The rush of seawater up the beach after the breaking of a wave.

Backwash- When water runs back down the beach due to gravity.

Swash Backwash Deposition (beach building)

Backwash Swash Erosion (beach removal)


Destructive waves are flat/tall and powerful waves that erode/build the coastline. They crash down on to beaches and drag
material away with them. This means that their backwash is greater/weaker than their swash. Their power is generated from
gravity due to their large wave height and short wavelength. Due to this short wavelength, they have a high/low wave frequency
with between 10 and 15 waves breaking on the shore per minute. They create flat/steep beaches.
Constructive waves are much stronger/weaker than destructive waves. Their swash is greater/weaker than their
backwash and this results in new material being deposited onto the coastline. This often creates wide, flat/steep
beaches. They have a lower wave height and a greater wave length. This means that waves are frequent/infrequent,
with an average of 10 waves or fewer per minute.
ACTIVITY: Decide if the following statements apply to destructive waves, constructive waves, or both.

STATEMENT DESTRUCTIVE CONSTRUCTIVE BOTH


Erode the coastline

Create wide, flat beaches

Infrequent waves per minute

Backwash is greater than swash

High wave height

Break onto coastline

More dangerous to humans © The Geography Oasis 2018


Wave Building
What makes some waves bigger and more powerful than others?

Wind speed- If the wind speed is greater than the wave speed then energy will be transferred from
the wind to the wave. The higher the wind speed the greater the transfer of energy and the more
destructive the wave will be.

Duration of wind- The longer the wind blows, the more time it will have to transfer energy and
build waves.

The Fetch- The distance travelled over open water by a wave before it hits a coastline. The larger the
fetch, the larger the wave.
A map to show waves hitting the coastline of the UK
Which area (A,B,C,D) is likely to receive the highest
proportion of destructive waves? Explain your answer.

Which area (A,B,C,D) is likely to receive the highest


proportion of constructive waves? Explain your answer.
 
Where would you choose to locate a surfer training
centre (A,B,C,D)? Explain your answer.
 
Where would you choose to locate an ocean power plant
that generates energy from waves (A,B,C,D)? Explain
your answer.
 
Where would you choose to locate a new tourist resort
(A,B,C,D)? Explain your answer.

Factors that influence the type of wave


 

Wind speed 
Duration of wind 
The Fetch
A map to show waves hitting the coastline of the UK

Which area (A,B,C,D) is likely to receive the highest proportion of destructive waves?
Explain your answer.

 Location A due to the large size of the fetch (6500km) which gives the wave the
 opportunity to build over time. Furthermore, average wind speed is high at 24 knots,
 therefore this energy will transfer from wind to wave.
Which area (A,B,C,D) is likely to receive the highest proportion of constructive waves?
Explain your answer.
 Debatable between location C and D due to the small size of the fetch (under 800km)
 which does not give the wave the opportunity to build over time. Furthermore, average
 wind speeds at both locations are low, under 15 knots.

Where would you choose to locate a surfer training centre (A,B,C,D)? Explain your
answer.
 
Maybe location B? Waves are likely to be relatively large due to wind speeds and fetch.
 
However, not too overpowering like at location D.
 
Where would you choose to locate an ocean power plant that generates energy from
waves (A,B,C,D)? Explain your answer.
 
Location A is likely to experience large, powerful waves. The wind direction is the most
 
consistent (25%) from this direction, so energy production would benefit from this.
 
 
Where would you choose to locate a new tourist resort (A,B,C,D)? Explain your answer.

Debatable between location C and D. Constructive waves help to build beaches and they
are more pleasant for casual swimmers.
Review A
1. How many different types of
wave can you name?

2. Study the 2 photographs.


Describe the key differences. B

3. Suggests reasons for the


differences you identified in
question 2.

© The Geography Oasis 2020


Ocean Waves
Constructive and Destructive
Key Understandings
1. Ocean waves vary in size, height, length, frequency, and
energy.

2. The type of ocean wave depends on the wind speed,


wind duration, and fetch.

3. There are two types of ocean wave; constructive and


destructive. Constructive waves deposit material
whereas destructive waves remove material.
METACOGNITION CORNER

In two to three sentences, write a summary of the key concepts and ideas
from this class.

What worked well? 

What could I have done better? 

Can I apply my learning to other situations, topics or subjects?
Useful links
Videos
Types of Wave- Time For Geography
Where do waves come from?- BBC Earth Labs
5 BIG waves- Top Fives

Articles/Weblinks
Ocean Waves- Ducksters

© The Geography Oasis 2020


Bonus Materials
DIAGNOSTIC QUIZ TO CHECK UNDERSTANDING (GOOGLE FORM)

KEYWORDS QUIZ (QUIZLET) (PASSWORD: coast539)

INTERACTIVE QUIZ (QUIZIZZ)

REMOTE READY RESOURCES- GOOGLE SLIDES GOOGLE DOC

LEARNING (KNOWLEDGE) ORGANISER- NEXT SLIDE

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