ANECALC ANECALC

ANECALC is a Tool used to Estimate ANECALC là công cụ dùng để tính toán ước
Thread Consumption and Calculate Thread lượng định mức tiêu hao chỉ và giá thành chỉ
Cost per Product Sewn. may trên mỗi đơn vị sản phẩm may

Mũi may móc xích 401 – ước lượng tiêu hao chỉ

ANECALC Seam
401 Chainstitch - Estimated Thread Consumption
Stitches Per Inch (SPI)

Tính định mức chỉ & Ước lượng chi phí Thickness inches mm 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Lt. Weight 0.025 0.6 4.30 4.40 4.50 4.60 4.70 4.80 4.90 5.00
Thread Consumption & Cost Estimator 0.030 0.8 4.36 4.48 4.60 4.72 4.84 4.96 5.08 5.20
0.035 0.9 4.42 4.56 4.70 4.84 4.98 5.12 5.26 5.40
• ANECALC được phát triển trên nền tảng bảng tính Excel 0.040 1.0 4.48 4.64 4.80 4.96 5.12 5.28 5.44 5.60
0.045 1.1 4.54 4.72 4.90 5.08 5.26 5.44 5.62 5.80
(ANECALC was developed using an Excel spreadsheet.) Med. Wt. 0.050 1.3 4.60 4.80 5.00 5.20 5.40 5.60 5.80 6.00
0.055 1.4 4.66 4.88 5.10 5.32 5.54 5.76 5.98 6.20
• ANECALC tính toán dựa trên công thức của Union Special 0.060 1.5 4.72 4.96 5.20 5.44 5.68 5.92 6.16 6.40
0.065 1.7 4.78 5.04 5.30 5.56 5.82 6.08 6.34 6.60
(ANECALC is based on Union Special Thread Consumption Formulas) 0.070 1.8 4.84 5.12 5.40 5.68 5.96 6.24 6.52 6.80
0.075 1.9 4.90 5.20 5.50 5.80 6.10 6.40 6.70 7.00
Công thức tính dựa vào Loại đường may, độ dày trung Hvy. Wt. 0.080 2.0 4.96 5.28 5.60 5.92 6.24 6.56 6.88 7.20
bình của đường may & Mật độ mũi may/ inch. 0.085
0.090
2.2
2.3
5.02
5.08
5.36
5.44
5.70
5.80
6.04
6.16
6.38
6.52
6.72
6.88
7.06
7.24
7.40
7.60
Formulas based on Stitch Type, Average Seam Thickness & Stitches per Inch 0.095 2.4 5.14 5.52 5.90 6.28 6.66 7.04 7.42 7.80
0.100 2.5 5.20 5.60 6.00 6.40 6.80 7.20 7.60 8.00
0.105 2.7 5.26 5.68 6.10 6.52 6.94 7.36 7.78 8.20

+ +
0.110 2.8 5.32 5.76 6.20 6.64 7.08 7.52 7.96 8.40
0.115 2.9 5.38 5.84 6.30 6.76 7.22 7.68 8.14 8.60
Loại đường may Độ dày trung bình đường may Mật độ mũi may Ex. Hvy. Wt. 0.120 3.0 5.44 5.92 6.40 6.88 7.36 7.84 8.32 8.80
Stitch Type Avg. Seam Thickness Stitch per Inch 0.125 3.2 5.50 6.00 6.50 7.00 7.50 8.00 8.50 9.00

Formula Used = 4 + 2 X (thickness X Stitches per Inch)

ANECALC ANECALC
http://www.amefird.com/technical-tools/thread-consumption/anecalc/

Chọn đúng bảng tính cho từng loại vải:

(Choose the correct Spreadsheet for either)
• Vải mỏng nhẹ Light Weight Fabrics
28.35 grams (1 oz) to 138.91 grams (4.9 oz) - (Shirts, Blouses, Tees, Tanks)

• Vải dày nặng trung bình Medium Weight Fabrics

(141.75 grams(5 oz) to 252.31 grams(8.9 oz) - (Pants, Chinos, Sweaters, Fleece)

• Vải dày nặng Heavy Weight Fabrics

(255.15 grams(9 oz) to 425.25 grams(15 oz.) - (Denim Jeans, Overalls, Parkas)

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 ANECALC
Điền đầy đủ thông tin vào các ô màu xanh
Fill in the highlight “Blue” cell
Company Name, Location
Product Description. Photo,…
•Bảng kê/ hình vẽ các loại mũi may (Stitch ĐẦU TIÊN CHỌN ĐÚNG BẢNG TÍNH
DỰA TRÊN ĐỘ DÀY CỦA VẢI
1st: Select the correct Spread-Sheet based on
Matrix) The Weight of the fabric.

•Dụng cụ đếm số mũi may (Stitch Counter)

•Thước dây (Measuring Tape)
•Phần mềm ANECALC
(ANECALC Software)

ANECALC ANECALC

Nhập tên công đoạn may

Type in the Name of the Sewing Operation

Chú ý: KHÔNG NHẬP cùng loại cỡ chỉ/ size chỉ trong Xác định và chọn loại mũi may thích hợp
các cell giống nhau. (các cell không được trùng nhau) cho công đoạn may
Nếu không ANECALC sẽ tính định mức gấp đôi Identify and select the appropriate stitch type
Note: never type the same thread Size/ Type multiple cells that is being used for this Sewing operation
at the top as ANECALC will double the consumption

ANECALC
Stitch Drawing ISO 4915 Common
Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application Requirements Stitch Description
2 Needle Bottom Coverstitch Looper Thread on Bottom 406 Hemming, Specify Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
Attaching, Elastic, 1) Needle spacing material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
Binding, (1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4") stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
Coverseaming, 2) SPI interlooped between needle threads providing seam
Making Belt coverage on the bottom side only.
Loops
3 Needle Bottom Coverstitch Looper Thread on Bottom 407 Attaching Elastic Specify Stitch formed by 3-needle threads passing through the
to Men's & Boys 1) Needle spacing material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
Knit Underwear (1/4") stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
2) SPI is interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only.

2 Needle Chainstitch with Looper Thread on Bottom 408 Attaching Pocket Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
Cover Thread Facings to Jeans material and interlooping with 2-looper threads with
& Chino Casual the stitches set on the underside of the seam. A top
Pants spreader thread is interlaced on the top side of the
seam between the two needle threads.

2 Thread Overedge Single "purl" on Edge 503 Serging & Specify Stitch formed by 1-needle thread and 1-looper thread
Blindhemming 1) Width Bite (Ex. with purl on edge of seam for serging or
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") blindhemming ONLY.
2) SPI.

3 Thread Overedge Most Common Overedge 504 Single Needle Specify Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
Stitch Overedge 1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
Seaming 1/8", 3/16", 1/4") edge of the seam. For overedge seaming and serging.
2) SPI.

3 Thread Overedge Double "purl" on Edge 505
Mock Safety Stitch 2 Needle Overedge 512
Serging with Specify Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
Double purl on
Edge
1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a double purl
1/8", 3/16", 1/4") on the edge of the seam for serging ONLY. Nhập các thông số: số đường may, chiều dài đường may, SPI
2) SPI. Ghi chú: khi nhập số…lượng chỉ tiêu hao sẽ tự động được tính
Fill in the Rows of Stitch, SPI and Length of Seam. Notice that when this
Seaming Stretch Specify SPI. Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper information is typed in … the thread consumed is automatically calculated.
Knits, Wovens threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
edge of the seam. 512 – right needle only enters the
upper looper loop. Stitch does NOT chain-off as well
as 514 Stitch

Find Drawings at www.amefird.com

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 ANECALC ANECALC

Kế tiếp nhập thông tin về chỉ may.

Thông tin chỉ bao gồm loại chỉ & cỡ chỉ, màu chỉ
Next put the thread information. This
might include the thread type & size, as well as the thread color. Lập lại tuần tự các bước cho từng công đoạn
may tiếp theo.
Repeat the preceding steps for each operation on
the Garment being analyzed.

= 3 Đường may
ANECALC 301 Lockstitch
= 3 Rows of Stitch

401 Lockstitch
Mũi may 2Kim 301 & 401 sử dụng 2 chỉ kim và 2 chỉ móc để tạo
thành 2 đường may, do đó số lượng đường may = 2
301 & 401 stitches use two needles and two bottom threads to form
two rows of stitches, therefore the number of rows of stitch = 2

401 Lockstitch

= 2 Đường may
= 2 Rows of Stitch
301 Lockstitch

Nếu nhiều sợi chỉ may được may chung

với nhau ở mặt trên hay mặt dưới để tạo ANECALC SET POCKET FACINGS

thành đường may, thì nó chỉ tạo thành 1

đường may 602 Bottom View
408 or 602 Top View
If the needle threads are joined together on either
the top or bottom, then it is one row of stitch.
Do mũi 406 sử dụng 2 chỉ kim để tạo 1 đường may,
do đó số đường may = 1
Since a 406 stitch uses two needles to form one stitch,
then the number of rows of stitch = 1

Mũi 602 sử dụng 2 chỉ kim để tạo Nếu nhiều sợi chỉ may
1 đường may, do đó số đường may = 1 được may chung với
Since a 602 stitch uses two needles to nhau ở mặt trên hay
form one stitch, then the number of
rows of stitch = 1 mặt dưới để tạo thành
đường may, thì nó chỉ
tạo thành 1 đường 408 Bottom View
may
If the needle threads are
joined together on either
= 1 Đường may
the top or bottom, then it is = 1 Rows of Stitch
one row of stitch.

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 ANECALC Trong trường hợp công đoạn là đính bọ, đính nút, thùa khuy

-Cột Rows of Stitch: số lượng bọ,nút, hay khuy

ANECALC
-Cột SPI: luôn là 1
Khi mũi may VS5C 516 được chọn, nếu chỉ may sử dụng -Cột lengh of seam: luôn là 1
cho đường may vắt và đường móc xích cùng loại chỉ,
cùng cỡ và cùng màu thì sẽ chọn 516 Both. Nếu không, If a bartack, buttonsew, buttonhole selection is made from the
sẽ cần đến 2 dòng cho cùng một công đoạn VS5C 516. ISO column, you should always enter:
1 dòng cho mũi may 516/401 -the number of tacks, buttons,..etc under Row of Stitch,
và dòng kia cho mũi may 516/504 - and "1" under SPI and "1" ubder the length of the seam.
When a 516 Safetystitch is selected, is the same thread type, size
and color used on both the chainstitch and overedge positions.
If Yes, then select 516 Both. If Not, then you will need to use two rows
for the Safetystitch operation. 1 row for 516 / 401 and another
row for 516 / 504 for the same Sewing Operation.

Khi tất cả các công đoạn may được liệt kê

số lượng tổng tiêu hao của chỉ kim, chỉ móc
và chỉ suốt sẽ hiển thị ở đáy bảng tính
When all the operations are listed, the total Needle Ghi chú: Số chỉ tiêu hao trong
Thread, Bobbin Thread, and Looper Thread will be 2 ô phải
shown at the bottom. BẰNG NHAU. Nếu không,
phải kiểm tra
lại quá trình nhập

Hệ số lãng phí có thể được thêm vào nhằm đảm bảo

không sử dụng hết chỉ và phải đặt đơn hàng gấp
để đảm bảo sản xuất. Ghi chú: Số chỉ tiêu hao trong
A waste factor can then be added to make sure you do not run 2 ô phải
out of thread and have to rush order enough to finish the production. BẰNG NHAU. Nếu không,
phải kiểm tra
lại quá trình nhập

ANECALC ANECALC
Nhập giá chỉ may và chiều dài quấn cuộn.
Chi phí chỉ may trên mỗi đơn vị sản phẩm sẽ được tự động tính
Here you need to enter the Thread Prices and Put-ups. Nhập số lượng của đơn hàng – 25,000 chiếc
Notice that the Thread Cost per Garment is Automatically Calculated! ANECALC sẽ tự động tính toán số cuộn chỉ cần thiết cho đơn hàng
You can now input the Size of the Program - 25,000 jeans.
ANECALC will automatically calculate the number of cones required.

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 ANECALC HELP GUIDE
New! ANECALC Help Guide
ANECALC is a tool developed by American & Efird (A&E) to
assist in estimating the amount of thread consumed in a sewn
product. This information can then be used to calculate the Thread
Cost per Garment and the estimated number of cones you will
need for a quantity of sewn products you are planning on
producing.
You do not need to have any special software on your computer
because ANECALC was developed using Microsoft® Excel®
spreadsheets.
SELECTING THE ISO STITCH TYPE
- If you are not family with the ISO 4915 stitch numbers, you
can look them up on the ISO4915 Tab below.
- For many stitches you must first measure the needle spacing
or seam width before selection the stitch.
(Ex. 504 -1/8” – 3 Thd Overedge).
- It is important to select the correct ISO 4915 stitch because
this will determine the amount of thread consumed in making
the seam.
ANECALC HELP GUIDE
- If the sewing operation includes sewing both of these parts, then INSERTING A NEW ROW
double the measurement for the seam length. - First, click in the row where you want to insert the new row.
BARTACK, BS, BH & EMBROIDERY
- If a bartack, buttonsew, buttonhole or embroidery selection is
made from the ISO Stitch Column, you should always enter the
number of tacks, buttons, etc. under Rows of Stitch, and “1”
under SPI and “1” under length of seam. (ex. Tack Belt Loops –
10 tacks, 1 under SPI and 1 under Length of Seam).
HIDING ROWS

- A typical ANECALC spreadsheet has enough rows for 50

The ANECALC workbook has Sheets shown as Tabs at the
bottom used for the following:
INSTRUCTIONS tab on how to use the program.
New! ISO STITCHES for identifying the correct stitch type.
New! WORKSHEET tab and THREAD COST Tabs have been
combined so you can see everything on one spreadsheet. This
also allows you to copy the entire worksheet to compare thread
cost using other thread combinations.
mm to Inches tab that helps you convert fractions of an inch to
millimeters.
STARTING A NEW ANECALC SPREAD SHEET
- To begin a new ANECALC spreadsheet, you can either use an
existing Apparel Guidelines ANECALC spreadsheet for a similar
garment and modify it for the garment you are doing the analysis
on; or you can decide to begin from scratch with a new
Spreadsheet.
WHEN STARTING FROM SCRATCH
- When you are starting from scratch with a new Spreadsheet, iIt is
important that you select the correct spreadsheet for the weight of
the fabric being used in the garment. There are three basic
ANECALC spreadsheets:
Light Weight 2 to 4 oz weight fabrics
Medium Weight 5 – 8 oz weight fabrics
Heavy Weight 9 – 15 oz weight fabrics
The Weight of fabric determines the ratio of Needle to Bottom
thread on the Thread Consumption Table that is used to estimate
the amount of thread consumed.
- For each sewing operation on the garment, list the name of the
sewing operation, what ISO Stitch Type is being used, how many
rows of ISO Stitch there are, the Stitches Per Inch (SPI), and the
length of the seam.
AVERAGE SEAM THICKNESS
- At the top of each ANECALC spreadsheet is a cell for the
average thickness of the seam in millimeters. This is based on
the average seam thickness in the entire garment. In most cases,
you will not have to change this if you are using the correct
spreadsheet for Light, Medium or Heavy weight fabric.
operations but in many cases, you will not need all these rows.
NUMBER OF ROWS OF STITCH
- If you want to Hide the Rows between the last operation and the
- Refers to the number of rows of ISO stitch used to make the Totals at the bottom of the spreadsheet, Click in the left hand
seam. This does NOT refer to the number of needles or the margin and drag down the Row numbers until you are just
number of pieces (i.e., pockets, etc.) being sewn, BUT the above the Totals.
number of rows of the ISO stitch you selected in the previous - Next, right click and select Copy.
column to make the seam. - Now right click again and select Insert Copied Cells.
- For example, a 406 stitch is a two needle bottom coverstitch.
- You will now have two identical rows of one above the other.
This two needle stitch type makes only one row of stitch.
Rule: whenever the needles are connected with thread on - Next, right click on the Stitch Box in the new row you just
either the top or bottom side of the seam, one row of stitch is added.
being produced.
- On the other hand, when you twin needle topstitch a pocket
with a 301 Lockstitch, then two independent rows of lockstitch
are being used.
SPI
- SPI refers to Stitches Per Inch and is the measurement of the
number of links of thread between needle holes in one inch.
- For example, a typical number of stitches per inch on denim
would be 8 spi. See A&E’s technical bulletin on Selecting the
Proper Stitches Per Inch can be found on A&E’s website.
LENGTH OF SEAM
- Then select Format Control from the pop-up menu.
- The length of seam is the measurement of the seam length - Change the Cell Link to the proper Row Number. In this case,
including seam margins but does not include chain-off. change the D17 to D16 and then click on OK.
- A&E has ANECALC spreadsheets available in either inches &
yards or centimeters & metres. The selection of the proper
sheet is normally dependent upon the international location
and what measurement system is used for the cone put-ups.
To convert from meters to yards multiply times .91. To convert - Next right click your mouse and select HIDE.
from meters to yards divide by .91.
- In the Americas., a typical cone of thread is wound on a 6,000
yard put-up. In Europe or Asia, a typical cone is wound on a
5,000 metre put-up.
Many sewing operations have mirror components on each
side of the garment. A right and left cuff, a right and left
pocket, etc.

ANECALC HELP GUIDE

Questions ?