Fierce or Sleepy Dragon Pattern Part One of Three

amigurumitogo.com/2016/06/crochet-free-dragon-pattern.html

Sharon Ojala


When I first designed this dragon I made two, a green one and a red one but they remained
faceless for a couple days while I thought about what I wanted the face to look like. I was
taking photos of them when my youngest son came in. He played with them for a bit and
then said,

"This green one should be a good and friendly dragon and this red one should be a fierce but
good dragon. They should be named Dreams and Nightmare"

I just love those names so much! A light bulb went off in my head just then. I decided on two
different looks for their faces. You will see instructions for the head that will give you either
the sleepy head or the fierce head look. You decide what look you want your dragon to have.
Dreams looks a little sleepy so I refer to "sleepy" or "fierce" in the instructions below.

Size: Dragon is 16 -18 inches tall. Please see the supplies list below for the amount of yarn
needed.

How To Print This Pattern:

This is quite a long pattern. You can print it off by using a free service  here.

There are 3 parts to this pattern:

Part One ~ Written pattern scroll down this page

Part Two ~ Stuffing and shaping with photos here

Part Three ~ Assembly of Dragon here

This is a free pattern for all to enjoy. If you would like to leave a donation please do so by
using the donation button also located at the bottom of this pattern. Donations of any size
are greatly appreciated and do help me to keep on providing free patterns.

Thank you so much and enjoy!

Supplies:

2 rolls of Red Heart Super Saver yarn OR 1 jumbo roll of Red Heart Comfort yarn in any color
for the head, body, tail, limbs, outer wings and head parts

a small amount of yarn in an alternate color for the inner wings and spikes

a very small amount for the eyeballs

4.5mm hook if you crochet loose and see gaps then try a smaller hook

blunt end yarn needle for sewing

scissors

polyester stuffing

depending on type of eye you make, a small button, safety eye, felt or scrap piece of yarn for
the pupil

4 pipe cleaners (preferably a similar color as the outer wing)

Abbreviations:

st = stitch

sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

2tog = crochet 2 stitches together

FLO = front loops only

f/o = finish off

*Please read the introduction at the top of this page which explains why there are 2 different
instructions for the eyes and mouth. Look at the top for sizing, supplies needed and other
important notes. There are videos that go through each section of the dragon if you need
that extra help. There is also a page with photos and written instructions for each part if you
prefer that to a video. See here.

VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR THE BODY IS HERE

Many of the rows of the body are worked in both hdc and sc, this is done for shaping. The
areas with hdc's are more relaxed. When you stuff the dragon be sure to shape as you stuff.
Refer to the videos and photos (link to those at bottom of this pattern) to help you get a
better idea how the shape is supposed to look. Do not worry if you see stuffing showing
through the stitches on the front side of the dragon as you will be sewing a tummy patch
over this entire area.

There videos for each part of the dragon, I've including some links right in the parts
themselves, There is also a written instruction page with photos if you prefer that to a video.
See here.
Starting at the bottom of the body working up to the neck.

BODY:

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2) 2hdc in each (12) add a marker in last st of this row and move marker at the end of

each row

3) 2hdc in each st (24)

4) 1hdc then 2hdc in the next st, repeat to marker (36)

5) 1hdc in the next 5st then 2hdc in the next st, repeat to marker (42)

6) 1hdc in the next 6st then 2hdc in the next st, repeat to marker (48)

7) 1hdc in the next 7st then 2hdc in the next st, repeat to marker (54)

8) 1hdc in the next 27st then 1sc in the next 27st (54)

9-15) repeat row 8 for 7 rows

16) 1sc in the next 3st then 1hdc next 21st then 1sc in the next 30st (54)

17) 1sc in the next 4st then 1hdc in the next 18st then repeat this next sequence, (1sc in next
6st then sc2tog), to the marker. When you land on the marker you should be crocheting 2st
together (50)

18) 1sc in the next 8st then 2tog, repeat to marker (45)

19) 1sc in the next 5st then 1hdc in the next 15st then 1sc in next 25st (45)

20) 1sc in the next 3st then 2tog, repeat sequence 5 times. Then 1sc in next 20st (40)

21) 1sc in the next 8st then 2tog, repeat to marker (36)

22) 1sc in the next 6st then 1hdc in next 12st, 1sc in next 18st (36)

23) repeat row 22

24) 1sc in the next 4st then 2tog, repeat to marker (30)

25) 1sc in each st for 1 row

stuff body, shape as you stuff

26) 1sc in the next 8st then 1hdc in next 10st, 1sc in next 12st (30)

27-29) repeat row 26 for 3 rows

30) 1sc in the next 3st then 2tog, repeat to marker (24)

31) 1sc in each st for 1 row

32) 1sc in the next 4st then 2tog, repeat to marker (20)

33) 1sc in the next 6st then 1hdc in next 8st then 1sc in next 6st (20)

34) 1hdc in the next 6st then 1sc in next 8st then 1hdc in next 6st (20)

35) repeat row 34

36) 1hdc in the next 6st then 1sc in next 2st then sc2tog then sc2tog then 1sc in next 4st,
then 1hdc in next 4st (18)

37) 1hdc in the next 7st then 1sc in next 8st, 1hdc in next 3st (18)

stuff more, shape as you stuff

38) 2hdc in the next 5st then 1hdc in next 2st, then 1sc in next 2st then sc2tog then 1sc in
next 7st (22)

39) 1hdc in the next 13st then 1sc in next 2st then sc2tog, sc2tog, then 1sc in next 3st (20)

40) 1hdc in the next 10st then 1sc in next 10st (20)

41-42) repeat row 40 for 2 rows

43) 1sc in next 8st then 2tog, repeat to marker (18)

stuff and shape as you stuff

44-47) 1sc in each st for 4 rows

48) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog, repeat to marker (15)

49) 1sc in each st for 1 row

50) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog, repeat to marker (12)

sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff firmly so that when you sew the head in
place the neck does not flop over or wrinkle. You can use wire, just be sure to loop and tape
the ends of the wire so they never poke through. I used wire in one of my dragons and no
wire for the others. There is no real difference except I can pose the one head a bit more
than the others.

Head: for this part and the rest of the dragon parts, the sequences given are to be repeated
to the marker. Make sure to use a marker and move the marker at the end of every row .
Video here

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2) 2sc in each st (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)

4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)

6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)

7-11) 1sc in each st for 5 rows

12) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)

13) 1sc in each st for 1 row

14) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)

15-18) 1sc in each st for 4 rows

19) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)

20-21) 1sc in each st for 2 rows

22) 2sc in next 6 FLO then 2sc in next 12st (36)

23) 1hdc in next 12 FLO then 1sc in next 24st (36)

24) 1hdc in next 12st then repeat this sequence, 1sc in next 4st then 2tog, to the marker (32)

25) 1hdc in next 12st then 1sc in next 20st (32)

stuff snout, shape as you stuff

26-27) repeat row 25 for 2 rows

28) 1sc in each st for 1 row

29) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (28)

30) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (24)

31) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)

stuff head. The hdc's are the top of the head and you should be stuffing and shape
accordingly. Please view the photos OR video if unsure how to properly stuff and shape.

32) 1sc then 2tog (12)

sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing. Weave in and out of the FLO of the stitches.

stuff more and shape as you stuff.

Pull tight and knot off. Hide yarn tail inside head.

Nostrils: Video here

Insert hook in between the 6th and 7th row or 7th and 8th row (depends on how firmly you
stuffed, eye it up and choose by what would look better) ch 1 then make 3dc in first space
and 3dc in next space, sl st into next space then f/o. There should be at least 4 visible stitch
holes between nostrils. Shape the nostrils and sew the yarn tails into the head.

Ears: work starting yarn tail into 2nd or 3rd row. Video here

1) magic circle  with 6sc (6)

2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)

4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing.

roll and sew the end to hold the shape. One end should be closed and the other end open like
a rolled taco. Make sure to roll the 2nd ear in the opposite direction so the ears match when
sewn onto the dragon.

Top Eyelid for Fierce but Friendly Dragon Video for all the eye parts here

1) ch8 begin with a long enough starting tail to sew into the head

2) start with 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each ch (7) ch1 and turn

3) 1sc, 1hdc, 2dc next 3st, 1hdc, sl st last st

f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

Bottom Eyelid for Fierce but Friendly Dragon

1) ch8 begin with a long enough starting tail to sew into the head

2) start with 2nd ch from hook, 1sc, 1hdc next 5st, sl st last st (7)

f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

Eyeball for Fierce but Friendly Dragon

1) magic circle  with 6sc (6)

2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc in each st for 1 row

sl st next st and f/o. Cut yarn tail shorter and tuck behind eye when ready to sew to the head.
Use colored yarn whip stitch on a pupil, play around with it. I did one with colored yarn then
black in the middle, it looks pretty cool that way.
Top Eyelid for Sleepy Looking Dragon

1) ch8 begin with a long enough starting tail to sew into the head

2) start with 2nd ch from hook, 1sc then 1dc next 5st then sl st last st

f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

Bottom Eyelid for Sleepy Looking Dragon

1) ch6

f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

Eyeball for Sleepy Looking Dragon

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

sl st next st and f/o. Cut yarn tail shorter and tuck behind eye when ready to sew to the head.
Sew a solid button onto the circle.

You can glue this whole piece to the head or sew it to the head

Mouth for Both Dragons Video here

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)

4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

for rows 5-8 start in 2nd st from hook

5) 1sc in next 5st then ch1 and turn

6) 1sc in next 5st then ch1 and tun

7) 1sc in next 5st then ch1 and turn

8) 1sc in next 5st then ch1 and turn

9) 1sc in next 5st then (for Sleepy Dragon f/o here leaving a long tail for sewing) for Fierce
Dragon continue on: ch1 and continue down the edge, 1sc in next 5 spaces. Once you reach
the rounded part of the mouth, ch1 then 1sc in same stitch, ch1 then 1sc in next stitch,
repeat all the way around until you reach the corner of the straight edge, 1sc in next 5
spaces, f/o leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms: Video here

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)

3) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)

4-16) 1sc in each st for 13 rows

17) 2sc in each st (20)

18) make 4 fingers

Legs: video here

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)

4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)

6-8) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

9) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog, repeat sequence until there is 6st left to the marker (the stitch
holding the marker is included in that count), put 1sc in each of those 6st (24)

10) 1sc then 2tog (16)

11-14) 1sc in each st for 4 rows

sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff and shape foot, lightly stuff leg

Tail: video here

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2-6) 1sc in each st for 5 rows

7) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (8)

8-10) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

11) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (10)

12-14) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

15) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (12)

16-18) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

19) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (15)

20-22) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

23) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)

24-26) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

27) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

28-30) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

31) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)

32-34) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

35) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)

36-38) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

39) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)

40-42) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

43) 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (48)

44-46) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

*Instructions for the tail ridge and tail spike are in part two. OR view the video for adding the
ridge and spikes here

Tummy Patch: with alternate color. video here

for rows using hdc always ch2 and turn and start with 3rd st from hook,

for rows using sc always ch1 and turn and start with 2nd st from hook,

1) ch21

2) starting with 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each ch (20)

3-11) 1hdc in each st for 9 rows (20)

12) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog, repeat to marker (16)

13-14) 1hdc in each st for 2 rows

15) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (12)

16-17) 1hdc in each st for 2 rows

18) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)

19) 1hdc in each st for 1 row

20) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (8)

21-25) 1hdc in each st for 5 rows

26) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (6)

27-33) 1hdc in each st for 7 rows

34) 1sc then 2tog (4)

35) 1hdc in each st for 1 row

36) 1sc in each st for 1 row

f/o leaving a long tail for sewing

Wings:

I did not design left or right, you make 2 of each for the outer and inner wing.

More details about the wings is given with photos in part 2 here

Video for making and assembling the wings here

Outer Wing: with body color make 2

1) ch16

2) start in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each ch (15) ch2 and turn,

3) start in 3rd st from hook, 1hdc in next 11st, ch3 and turn,

4) start in 4th st from hook, 1hdc in next 9st then sc2tog , ch2 and turn

5) start in 3rd st from hook, 1hdc in next 7st, ch3 and turn,

6) start in 4th st from hook, 1hdc in next 5st then sc2tog

working now along the edge to the left of your last st, you'll have to push your hook through,
2tog then 2tog then 2tog then 1sc in the outer loop of the corner. Next, working along the
outer loops of the row, 1sc in each of the 15 outer loops, ch1 then working in both loops, sc
around the edge and to the first inner corner, now you have to push your hook through,
continue working with sc. Working along the edge of the wing tips you will have to push
through what was the chain of 3 we made, push through single loops of that chain. Work in
both loops of stitches when you can and work along the very outer edge of the wing trying
your best to maintain the shape. Once you get all the way around, f/o leaving a long tail for
sewing.

Inner Wing: with alternate color make 2

1) ch14

2) start in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in each ch (13) ch2 and turn,

3) start in 3rd st from hook, 1hdc in next 9st, ch3 and turn,

4) start in 4th st from hook, 1hdc in next 7st then sc2tog , ch2 and turn

5) start in 3rd st from hook, 1hdc in next 5st, ch3 and turn,

6) start in 4th st from hook, 1hdc in next 3st then sc2tog

working now along the edge to the left of your last st, you'll have to push your hook through,
2tog then 2tog then 2tog then 1sc in the outer loop of the corner. Next, working along the
outer loops of the row, 1sc in each of the 13 outer loops, ch1 then working in both loops, sc
around the edge and to the first inner corner, now you have to push your hook through,
continue working with sc. Working along the edges of the wing tip you will have to push
through what was the chain of 3 we made, push through loops of that chain. Work in both
loops of stitches when you can and work along the very outer edge of the wing trying your
best to maintain the shape. Once you get all the way around, f/o. You do not use these yarn
tails for sewing, they will get tucked in between the wing pieces.

Stuffing shaping and assembly for the Dragon:

Part 2: How to stuff and shape the parts here

Part 3: How to assemble the dragon here

Video playlist  here

Why donating is important and my thank you here.

Copyright 2016 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights reserved