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Hasana, A.R. and Wibowo. (2022). International Conference of Kerta Cendekia.

2 (1): 124-130
http://ejournal-kertacendekia.id/index.php/ickc/index

Original Research Article

FORMULATION FACE MIST WITH GOTU KOLA (Centella asiatica) EXTRACT AS


ANTIOXIDANT AND MOISTURIZING FOR ELDERLY SKIN

Ani Riani Hasana1*, Wibowo1

1Department of Pharmacy, Abstract


Sekolah Tinggi Ilmu Kesehatan
Panti Waluya Malang, Malang, Background: The skin in the elderly will experience structural, and
Indonesia physiological changes, and a decrease in the function of the skin, this is the basis
for various skin disorders in the elderly or geriatric. The most common skin
disorder in the elderly is dry skin. The gotu kola plant (Centella asiatica) has
*Correspondence: been studied to have antioxidant abilities. Face mist is included in skin
fresheners or freshener cosmetics.
Ani Riani Hasana
Department of Pharmacy, Sekolah Objectives: The purpose of this study was to produce a face mist product with
Tinggi Ilmu Kesehatan Panti gotu kola extract in overcoming skin health problems in the elderly.
Waluya Malang, Malang,
Indonesia Methods: This research method begins with the manufacture of ethanol extract
from gotu kola leaves, then gotu kola extract as the active ingredient in making
face mist formulations. antioxidant activity of the gotu kola plant and the
physical quality of the gotu kola leaf face mist was tested, namely the pH test
Email:
and the organoleptic test.
anirianihasana@gmail.com
Results: The organoleptic test obtained the characteristic odor of leaves, a liquid
form with a brownish clear color. Furthermore, the pH test showed a pH range
of 5. pH 5 is the pH of the preparation that is allowed for cosmetics used on the
skin, especially on the face, as the pH of the skin in the Indonesian National
Standard (SNI) is 4.5 - 7.5.

Conclusion: the formulation of this face mist is following the standard, it is


hoped that this research can be continued for the development of research in
increasing skin moisture levels in overcoming the skin of the elderly.

Keywords: Antioxidant, Face Mist, Gotu Kola

© 2022 The Authors. International Conference of Kerta Cendekia Published by Institute for Research and Community Service
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INTRODUCTION this is the basis for various skin disorders in the


The skin will experience natural aging elderly or geriatrics. Skin disease does not
following the addition of age both internally cause high rates of death in the elderly, how
and externally, this will be influenced by many many skin problems occur in this elderly age
environmental factors. The skin in the elderly group. This elderly skin disorder requires
will experience structural, and physiological special attention in its handling. The most
changes, and decreased function of the skin, common skin disorder in the elderly is dry skin.

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Hasana, A.R. and Wibowo. (2022)

Physical changes seen to increase with age are of the young. Elderly care using cosmetics is
changes in skin elasticity. One of the primarily intended to overcome dryness. On the
characteristics of aging, among others, is that other hand, medically curative healing is more
the skin looks loose and black spots appear. recommended for treating itching, reducing
This happens due to a decrease in water content, skin wrinkles, and also reducing circulatory
collagen becomes less becoming, thinning skin disorders. To deal with dry skin in the elderly,
thickness, dryness of the skin, and also visible the method is almost the same as other aged
wrinkles (Ahmad & Damayanti, 2018). The skin types, namely using moisturizers and
aging process will affect various systems in the emollients (Apristasari et al., 2018; Damayanti,
body and will result in decreased function of 2017).
these systems. This is explained by the free Face mist belongs to the category of skin
molecule theory in which free radical freshener cosmetics, freshener function of a
compounds react with unsaturated fatty acids in toner is to freshen facial skin, remove excess oil
cell membranes to form peroxidation from the skin, and act as a gentle disinfectant
compounds that prevent food pathways from while helping to close pores (Puspita et al.,
entering and leaving the cell membrane, which 2020; Taufiq & Ismail, 2020). Facial fresheners
leads to accelerated cell death (Damayanti, are made according to the type of cleanser that
2017). is based on the type of facial skin.
Antioxidants can slow, delay, or inhibit Objective(s): Based on the problems that
oxidative reactions. Antioxidants are a very have been presented, this study aims to provide
potential group that can prevent skin damage a face mist preparation formulation with gotu
and reduce the level of skin damage kola ingredients that have the potential for
(Damayanti, 2017). Sources of natural antioxidants. Centella asiatica is made into
antioxidants can come from plants, one of ethanol extract. The ethanol extract of gotu kola
which is gotu kola (Centella asiatica). One of obtained was formulated into a face mist
the natural ingredients that have the potential as preparation by comparing the composition of
an antioxidant is gotu kola (Centella asiatica the active ingredients in the gotu kola extract
(L.) Urb). Hashim et al. in 2011 reported that and then testing the physical quality
the antioxidant activity of gotu kola was 84%, (Muhammad Ainul Yahya, 2020). Parameters
this is comparable to vitamin C (88%) and observed in organoleptic testing, pH acidity
grape seeds (83%). Gotu Kola is a wild plant testing, and density testing. Through the results
that grows naturally in fields, roadside,s and of this study, it is hoped that information can be
rice fields. Gotu Kola contains compounds such obtained about the preparation of a good gotu
as reducing sugars, flavonoids, terpenoids, kola extract face mist, so that it can be utilized
tannins, alkaloids, steroids, and saponins. by the community. In addition, it can also
Centella asiatica is also rich in vitamin A, B increase the economic value Gotugotu kola
vitamins, vitamin B2, niacin and carotene. which contributes to improving the
Centella asiatica compounds that have the community's economy.
potential as antioxidants are flavonoids,
terpenoids, and tannins (Salamah & Farahana, METHODS
2014). Study Design
In the skin of old people or the elderly, the The research design used cross-sectional.
production of sebaceous glands decreases, skin
fat will decrease, drying or dehydration occurs Setting
more easily and also, and sweat production will The research was conducted at the
decrease dramatically. Therefore, it is Pharmacy Laboratory of STIKes Panti Waluya
necessary to separate the skin care and Malang, and the UPT Herbal Materia Medica
cleansing methods of the elderly from the skin Batu Laboratory.

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Hasana, A.R. and Wibowo. (2022)

Research Subject extract. Organoleptic evaluation includes


The sampling strategies used purposive, shape, color, and smell qualitative.
Samples of Gotu kola leaves (Centella asiatica extract weight
% extract yield = x100%
(L.) were washed thoroughly with running simplicity weight
water to remove adhering dirt, then chopped
Antioxidant Test
Gotu kola leaves were carried out, then air-
The antioxidant activity test of the ethanol
dried in an area that was not exposed to direct
extract of Centella asiatica was carried out
sunlight. Then dry sorting was carried out and
using the DPPH method. A standard curve was
grinded using a blender to form a powder.
prepared by weighing 2 mg of DPPH powder
Instruments and dissolved in 50 mL of ethanol p.a. Sample
Instruments used include knives, blenders, concentrations of ethanol extract of Centella
analytical scales, beaker glass, erlenmeyer, stir asiatica herb were made with concentrations of
bar, test tube, measuring flask, measuring cup, 125, 250, 500, and 1000 ppm; then the
pH meter, vial, pycnometer, cup, filter paper, absorbance was measured at λmax 508 nm. The
maceration equipment, glass jar, rotary absorbance measurement result data analyzed is
evaporator, shakers, water baths, thermometers, the percentage of its antioxidant activity in the
fume hoods. The materials used include Gotu form of IC50 value.
kola, 70% ethanol, 96% ethanol, aqua rosae,
Formulation of Face Mist Extract Gotu kola
glycerin, PVP (polyvinyl pyrrolidone), and
Extract
aquadest.
This face mist is made in 3 formulas, with
Making Centella asiatica Extract each formula containing different
Centella asiatica extract was prepared concentrations of gotu kola extract, namely 5%,
using the maceration method, namely 10%, and 15% (Apristasari et al., 2018; Melisa
approximately 1000 grams of Centella asiatica Widyani, Maria Ulfa, 2019). The formula used
herb powder was put in a glass jar, then 70% can be seen in table 1. The stages of the
ethanol was added with a ratio of 1: 5, then procedure carried out in making the face mist
covered and protected from sunlight. The preparation were as first put Centella asiatica
maceration process was carried out for 3 days extract into the mortar, added 5% glycerin, 3%
while stirring occasionally. Remaceration was aqua rosae, and added 4% Polyvinyl
carried out 2 times to maximize extraction. The Pyrrolidone) which had been dissolved in hot
resulting macerate is then concentrated using a water, crushed until homogeneous then put in a
rotary evaporator with the principle of container and added distilled water up to 100
evaporating the solvent to obtain an extract with mL.
a concentrated or viscous concentration Table 1. Face Mist Formulation of Centella
according to the Ministry of Health of the asiatica Leaf Extract
Republic of Indonesia 2000. The entire Formulas
Material Function
extraction process is carried out at room 5% 10% 15%
Centella 5 10 15 Active
temperature (Iswandana & Sihombing, 2017). asiatica extract substance
Aqua rosae 3 3 3 Refresher
Evaluation of Centella asiatica Extract Glycerin 5 5 5 Emollient
The evaluation carried out on the gotu kola PVP 4 4 4 Addition
extract was in the form of testing the Aquadest ad ad ad Base
characteristics of the gotu kola extract 100 100 100
ml ml ml
including the identity of the extract,
Source: Face Mist with Natural Preservatives
organoleptic tests (shape, color, taste, and Formulation by Chem on Thailand
smell), and calculation of the yield of the (Thailand, 2021)

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Hasana, A.R. and Wibowo. (2022)

Evaluation of Gotu Kola Extract Face Mist Table 2. Yield of Centella asiatica Extract
The physical evaluation carried out on the Initial weight Final Weight Result
preparation of gotu kola extract face mist 1000 g 180 g 18%
Source: Research Results Data, 2021
included physical quality tests: organoleptic
testing, pH acidity testing, and density testing.
Table 3. Organoleptic Test Results for
Organoleptic testing, namely observing the
Centella asiatica Leaf Extract
shape, color, and smell of the face mist
Formulas
preparation of gotu kola extract (Apristasari et Observation
5% 10% 15%
al., 2018). Testing the pH of face mist Color Brownish Brownish Brownish
preparations with gotu kola extract was carried yellow yellow yellow
out with a calibrated pH meter instrument using Form Liquid Liquid Liquid
solution solution solution
standard buffer solutions pH 4, pH 7, and pH
Sensation Cold Cold Cold
10. Face mist preparations are said to be good, Smell Typical Typical Typical
they must meet the skin pH criteria in the range leaves leaves leaves
of 4.5-6.5 (Apristasari et al., 2018). Testing the Source: Research Results Data, 2021
density of the face mist preparation of Centella
asiatica extract was carried out by weighing the Table 4. Results of pH Acidity Test of
empty pycnometer without content (W1), the Centella asiatica Leaf Extract
pycnometer containing aquadest (W2), and the Formulas pH
pycnometer containing the face mist 5% 5,18
preparation sample (W3), then the results were 10% 5,20
15% 5,28
recorded and followed by calculating the
Source: Research Results Data, 2021
density using formula.
(W1 + W2 )
Specific Weight = Table 5. DPPH Antioxidant Activity Test
(W1 + W3 )
Results
Ethical Consideration Sample
Sample %
Concentration Inhibition
This research has obtained permission to Absorbance Inhibition
(ppm)
conduct research from each of the parties 1000 0,3134 0,5822 58,2217
concerned, and no formal ethical violations are 500 0,3461 0,5386 53,8626
required or carried out. 250 0,3802 0,4932 49,3168
125 0,4180 0,4428 44,2778
Source: DPPH Antioxidant Analysis Information
RESULTS Data, 2021
Face mist preparation made from ethanol
extract of face mist gotu kola leaves (Centella DISCUSSION
asiatica) was made in three concentrations This study aims to make an optimal
namely 5%, 10%, and 15%. In addition to formulation for the face mist gotu kola
testing the antioxidant activity, physical quality (Centella asiatica) in concentrations of 5%,
testing was also carried out, including 10%, and 15%. The first step was to make
organoleptic testing, pH acidity testing, and Centella asiatica leaf extract into a face mist
density testing. The yield of gotu kola leaf preparation and then tested for antioxidant
extract produced can be seen in table 2, the activity and physical quality tests including:
results of organoleptic testing can be seen in organoleptic testing, pH acidity testing, and
table 3, the results of testing for PH acidity can density testing. The method used to extract
be seen in table 4, and the results of testing the Centella asiatica leaves is the maceration
antioxidant activity of DPPH can be seen in method. The resulting ethanol extract of gotu
table 5. kola leaves has brownish-green color. The

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Hasana, A.R. and Wibowo. (2022)

weight of extracted dry simplicia was 1000 and 10% is slightly brownish and the
grams which were dissolved using 60% concentration of 15% is darker brown.
ethanol. The filtrate from the maceration and Testing the results of antioxidant
remaceration results was then evaporated to activity using the DPPH method. The DPPH
obtain a viscous extract of 180 grams with a method is used because this method is the
yield calculation of 18% (results can be seen in simplest, easiest, fastest, and quite a sensitive
table 2). method and only requires a small number of
extract weight samples so that it can be used extensively to test
% extract yield = x100%
simplicity weight the ability of compounds to act as electron
180g donors. The results of the antioxidant activity
= x 100% test of the ethanol extract of gotu kola leaves
1000g
= 18%
showed that this extract had a fairly low
antioxidant activity. Based on the results of
The thick extract of Centella asiatica testing the antioxidant activity of DPPH in table
leaves is made into a face mist. It is made in 3 5. This is indicated by the obtained IC50 value
formulas, with each formula containing of 372.2449 ppm. In this study, the ethanol
different concentrations of the extract, namely extract of Centella asiatica leaves made was
concentrations of 5%, 10%, and 15%. The said to be less active as an antioxidant, because
complete formula can be seen in table 1. Other its IC50 value was more than 100 µg/ml or 100
ingredients used namely aqua rosae (as an agent ppm.
that gives a cooling sensation), glycerin, PVP Y = Ax +B
(polyvinill pyrrolidone), and aquadest (as a Y = 0,0147x + 44,528
solvent), each of which is weighted according R2 = 0,902
to the calculation of the formula. Centella (50 − B)
asiatica extract was put into a mortar, added IC50 = = 372,2449 ppm
A
glycerin, and added PVP which had been
dissolved in hot water, then aqua rosae, crushed The pH acidity test was carried out after
until glycerin, and added PVP which had been making the face mist using a pH meter, in each
dissolved in hot water, crushed until preparation a concentration of 5%; 10%; and
homogeneous then put in a spray bottle and 15% has a pH values in the same range, namely
added distilled water to 100 mL. pH 5.18; 5.20; and 5.28. The pH range of 5 is
Face mist organoleptic testing was carried the pH of preparations that are allowed for
out by visually observing the color, shape, cosmetics used on the skin, especially on the
smell, and taste. The results can be seen in table face, as the skin pH in the Indonesian National
3. The odor produced from the preparation with Standard (SNI) is 4.5 – 7.5. In this study, testing
a concentration of 5% is the distinctive odor of the density of the preparation used a
the leaves, while the 15% specific odor of the pycnometer which was weighed on an
leaves produced is somewhat more analytical balance. The results showed that the
concentrated because the levels of gotu kola empty pycnometer weight was 20.6124 g (W1),
leaf extract are higher than that of the 5% the water pycnometer weight was 44.9774 g
concentration. The face mist preparation uses (W2), and the face mist pycnometer weight was
the formula for adding the ingredient aqua rosae 45.0235 g (W3). These data were entered into
known as rose water, this ingredient gives a the density formula, after which it was
fresh sensation and has a distinct rose calculated, it was found that the density of this
fragrance. The face mist dosage form is the face mist preparation was 0.999298.
same as in the form of a solution, while the
color of the face mist at concentrations of 5%

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Hasana, A.R. and Wibowo. (2022)

CONCLUSION http://download.garuda.ristekdikti.go.id/a
Based on the research results from the rticle.php?article=850430&val=7405&tit
manufacture and physical quality test of face le=Penuaan Kulit: Patofisiologi dan
Manifestasi Klinis
mist preparations made from ethanol extract of
Apristasari, O., Yuliyani, S. H., Rahmanto, D.,
Centella asiatica leaves that have been carried & Srifiana, Y. (2018). FAMIKU (Face
out, it can be concluded that face mist of Mist-Ku) yang Memanfaatkan Ekstrak
Centella asiatica leaves ethanol extract can be Kubis Ungu dan Bengkuang sebagai
made into face mist preparations. The results of Antioksidan dan Pelembab Wajah.
the physical quality test of the face mist Fakultas Farmasi dan Sains Universitas
preparation of the ethanol extract of Centella Muhammadiyah Prof DR Hamka, 5(2),
35–40.
asiatica leaves met the skin pH requirements.
Damayanti. (2017). Penuaan Kulit dan
Perawatan Kulit Dasar pada Usia Lanjut
SUGGESTIONS (Skin Aging and Basic Skin Care in
Elderly). Departemen/Staf Medik
Suggestions that can be given for this
Fungsional Ilmu Kesehatan Kulit dan
study are to test the viscosity or viscosity of the Kelamin Fakultas Kedokteran
face mist preparation of ethanol extract of Universitas Airlangga/Rumah Sakit
leaves. Umum Daerah Dr. Soetomo Surabaya,
29, 73–80.
Iswandana, R., & Sihombing, L. K. (2017).
ACKNOWLEDGMENT Formulasi, Uji Stabilitas Fisik, dan Uji
Thank you to those who have helped in Aktivitas Secara In Vitro Sediaan Spray
completing this research until the compilation Antibau Kaki yang Mengandung Ekstrak
of this manuscript. Thank you were given to Etanol Daun Sirih (Piper betle L.).
STIKes Panti Waluya Malang, and UPT Herbal Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research,
Laboratory of Materia Medica Batu. 4(3), 122.
Melisa Widyani, Maria Ulfa, D. G. W. (2019).
Efek Penghambatan Radikal Bebas Infusa
AUTHOR CONTRIBUTION dan Ekstrak Etanol Herba Pegagan
Author 1: (Centella Asiatica (L.) Urb) Dengan
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100–106.
Supervision, and Writing.
https://doi.org/10.29303/jpm.v14.i1.1006
Author 2: Muhammad Ainul Yahya, I. H. N. (2020).
Conceptualization, Funding Acquisition, Aktivitas Antioksidan Ekstrak Etanol
Project Administration and Resources. Herba Pegagan (Centella asiatica (L.)
Urban) Dengan Metode DPPH (2,2-
ORCID Difenil-1-Pikrilhidrazil). Journal of
Pharmaceutical Care Anwar Medika,
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3(1), 46–54.
Ani Riani Hasana https://doi.org/10.36932/jpcam.v3i1.44
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Author 2: (2020). Formulation And Physical
Wibowo Properties Test Of Spray Gel From
https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3659-4624 Ethanol Extract Of Buas Buas Leaf
(Premna Serratifolia L.). Jurnal Ilmiah
Farmako Bahari, 11(2), 145–152.
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Cite this article as: Hasana, A. R and Wibowo. (2022). Formulation Face Mist with Gotu Kola
(Centella asiatica) Extract as Antioxidant and Moisturizing for Elderly Skin. International
Conference of Kerta Cendekia, 2 (1), 124-130.

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