Dog O’Cat

Crochet pattern by
 About this toy

Size
29 cm (11.4 in) tall, 43 cm (16.9 in) long

Yarn and crochet hook

DK weight (8 ply / 11 wpi) acrylic yarn (yellow, ginger, brown, white and black colors) and
cotton yarn (white, black and blue colors)
2,50 mm and 2 mm crochet HOOK or according to the yarn.

Skills required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rounds, chain, slip, single, half double crochet and double
crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing of stitches.

How difficult
3. Intermediate

Contact me
If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me via the email
(monoxa.handmade@gmail.com) or Facebook (@monoxatoys).

One serious rule

Contents of this tutorial MAY NOT be copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed
in any way.
You MAY sell finished products, if you credit me as the designer
(@monoxatoys at Facebook and Instagram).

1
 Hi there
J I am so-o-o GLAD that you have chosen me
to be your amigurumi crochet guide and decided
to create DOG O’CAT with my help!

THANK YOU.

It will be fun, I promise.

My DOG O’CAT is not an easy toy, so I believe,

that you already have some experience in
crocheting amigurumi, because in this tutorial I
will focus more on tricky moments (such as
bending the body).
Let’s begin! J

The plan
1) First, I will give you the list of ABBREVIATIONS, that I am going to use in this tutorial
and remind you of the most common TECHNIQUES.

2) After that, I will show you an INVISIBLE single crochet decrease method.

3) After that, I will explain to you HOW TO READ my patterns.

4) In the next block, I will provide you with the list of MATERIALS AND TOOLS needed
for the Cat O’Dog creation process.

5) Then, I will share with you the long-waited crochet PATTERN.

6) After that, I will explain to you how to SHAPE the FACE of the toy. Finally, I will teach
you how to ASSEMBLE all the details together and share with you some of My TIPS.

2
 Abbreviations and Technology

ch =
chain stitch

sc =
single crochet

sl.st = slip stitch

dc =
double crochet

hdc = half double crochet

inc = increase
Increases look like a
“slingshots” on a crocheted fabric, so it is easy to spot them. You going to need increases to
WIDEN your crochet detail. To increase one stitch, you have to simply work TWO stitches IN
ONE stitch.

dec = decrease = sc2tog

Decrease – is really just
subtracting of a stitch in a
single crochet row. You
going to need decreases to NARROW your crochet detail.

3
sc3tog – three single crochet stitches decreased to one

hdc5tog – five half double crochet stitches decreased to one

sc3into1 – three single crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch

hdc5into1 – five half double crochet stitches crocheted into one stitch

dc3into1 – that is an increase made of 3 double crochet stitches (three double crochet
stitches are crocheted into one stitch)

NB! – an abbreviation for the Latin phrase nota bene, meaning “note well.” It is used to
emphasize an important point.

How to make an invisible decrease

The standard method of decreasing is to SC2tog, which leaves a bit of a bump and a small
gap. On the one hand, it makes it easier to find a decrease if you have lost the count, but on
the other hand, stuffing is going to show through the gaps and bumps will give an uneven
surface… and all the work will look untidy. However, if you promise to be a good girl and
count carefully your stitches, and use stitch marker, I will show you my secret DECREASE
METHOD, that makes decreases INVISIBLE!

1) Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single crochet stitch. Do not yarn
over.

2) Insert the hook under the front loop of the second stitch and pick it up onto the
hook (it won’t be easy at first and it will take some time to get to use to this move,
but the result is absolutely worth it!). Yarn over.

4
3) Draw through the first two loops. Yarn over and draw through all loops.

Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease! J

How to read my pattern

sc # = make n single crochet stitches, one in each stitch.

Number of the row

Pattern, you have to repeat
Number of times
number of stitches in a row after finishing a row……
…

4) {sc 2, inc} * 6 (24)

That means, that in the fourth row you are going to repeat the fragment “two single
crochet stitches, increase” six times and at the end of the row you will get 24 stitches.

5
 Materials & Tools
1) YARN.

I used DK weight (8 ply / 11 wpi) polyester yarn (100g – 240mt (3,5 Oz – 262 yards))
and a 2,50 mm crochet hook (US size 1/B).
Colors of the yarn: yellow – about 200 g (7 Oz), ginger – 30 g (1.01 Oz) , brown – 7 g
(0.25 Oz), white – 5 g (0.17 Oz), black – 5 g (0.17 Oz).

For eyes and Dog’s teeth, nose & patch of light on Dog’s nose I used thinner cotton
yarn (100g – 210 mt (3,5 Oz - 230 yards)). Colors: white – about 25 g (0.88 Oz), blue –
15 g (0.53 Oz), black – 5 g (0.17 Oz).

2) 2.50 mm and 2.0 mm crochet HOOK or according to the yarn.

3) Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc. for STUFFING (about 150 g (5.3 Oz))

4) Plastic safety EYES – 4 pairs (diameters: 10 mm, 9mm, 7mm, 6 mm (0.39 in, 0.35 in,
0.27 in,0.24 in)

5) White, black and ginger sewing THREAD

6) White felt

7) YARN NEEDLE, sewing PINS, SCISSORS, stitch MARKER.

J That’s it with the boring stuff! Yahoo-o-o! Now I invite you to the world of magic
stitches! Our journey begins!

6
 Patterns
Body & Cat’s head
Use yellow yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

Dog’s neck:

0) Chain 51, connect into a circle

1) Sc 51

How to “bend” the body

Now we have to make a stop. I am going to share with you my unique technique of
“bending” crochet details.
If you want to “bend” crochet detail really drastically (the case we have with Dog O’Cat’s
body), usual decreases and increases do not work.
You need somehow to enlarge outer surface and narrow inner surface if the detail.
I name this technique “pits” and “hills”.
“Pits” – help to narrow the inner surface (using Slip stitches instead of single crochet
stitches).
“Hills” – help to enlarge the outer surface (using 2 half-rows, one of them goes on the wrong
side (reverse half-row), another – on the right side).

7
“Pit” 1
2) Sc 9, sl.st 23, sc 19 (51)
3) Repeat row 2)
4) Sc 10, sl.st 23, sc 18 (51)
5) Repeat row 4)

NB! Please, please, please! Try to make Slip stitches really loose, otherwise it will be difficult
for you to squeeze the hook into them during the next row. And you are going to hate me
after the very first “pit” J.

Now let’s make a “Hill”.

“Hill” 1
6) Sc 8, sl.st 1 (those stitches do not count: you need them just to move the row forward) (Pic 1),
ch 1 (counts as first stitch of the row), turn to the wrong side, (Pic 2)
sl.st 1 into the 2-nd stitch (as it is shown on the picture), sc 5 (Pic 3), NB! remove the marker
hdc 10, sc 5, sl.st 3 (25 )

8
 Pic 1 …………………………………………………………….Pic 2

Pic 3

7) Ch 1 (counts as first stitch), turn to the right side, sl.st 3 (Pic 4), sc 5, hdc 8, sc 5, sl.st 4 put
the stitch marker into the next stitch (that will be the beginning of the next row) (26) (Pic 5)

9
 Pic 4 ………………………………………………………….Pic 5

As you can see, the section, where you have done Slip stitches (left side of the detail), goes down,
so the inner surface of the body narrows.
The section, where you have done half-rows (right side on the detail), on the contrary, goes up, so
the outer surface widens.

You are going to repeat that trick with “pits” and “hills” several, until you get the perfect
Dog O’Cat’s tail. Technique itself is simple, but once again, please, try to make loose Slip
stitches, otherwise this part of the pattern will become a living hell for you.

8) sc 26 (Pic 6), sc 24, dec (Pic 7) (51!)

Make sure you really have 51 stitches in this row!

You have to be careful, while “climbing up” the “hill”, try not to lose one stitch: make the
next sc into the place shown in the picture (Pic 6) with the needle.

10
 Pic 6 ………………………………………………………….Pic 7

9) Sc 41, leave this row unfinished, put the stitch marker into the next stitch (that will be the beginning of the next
row).

Next part is Dog O’Cat’s body.

Now work even for 12 rows:

10) -22) Sc 51 – 12 rows

“Pit” 2
Now work even for 4 rows:
23) -26) sc 2, sl.st 23, sc 26 (51) – 4 rows

“Hill” 2
27) Sl.st 1 (this stitch does not count: you need it just to move the row a little bit forward)
ch 1, turn, sl.st 1 into the 2-nd stitch, sl.st 1, sc 5, hdc 10, sc 5, sl sl 3 (26)
28) ch 1, turn, sl.st 3, sc 5, hdc 8, sc 5, sl.st 4 (25)

Now work even for 4 rows:

29) -32) Sc 51 – 4 rows

11
“Pit” 3
Now work even for 4 rows:
33) -36) sc 4, sl.st 23, sc 24 (51) – 4 rows

Now work even for 4 rows:

37) -40) Sc 51 – 4 rows

“Pit” 4
Now work even for 4 rows:
41) -44) sc 6, sl.st 23, sc 22 (51) – 4 rows

“Hill” 3
45) Sс 3, sl.st 1 (those stitches do not count: you need them just to move the row forward) ch 1, turn, sl.st 1
into the 2-nd stitch, sl.st 1, sc 5, hdc 10, sc 5, sl sl 3 (26)
46) Ch 1, turn, sl.st 3, sc 5, hdc 8, sc 5, sl.st 4 (25)

Now work even for 12 rows:

47) -58) Sc 51 – 12 rows

Stuff the detail.

Next part is Cat’s neck.

“Pit” 5
Now work even for 4 rows:
59) -62) sc 8, sl.st 23, sc 20 (51) – 4 rows

“Hill” 4
63) Sс 5, sl.st 1 (those stitches do not count: you need them just to move the row forward ch 1, turn, sl.st 1
into the 2-nd stitch, sl.st 1, sc 5, hdc 10, sc 5, sl sl 3 (26)
64) Ch 1, turn, sl.st 3, sc 5, hdc 8, sc 5, sl.st 4 (25)

“Pit”6
Now work even for 4 rows:
65) -68) sc 4, sl.st 23, sc 24 (51) – 4 rows

NB! Bended part of the body is over, no more “pits” and “hills”!
Congratulations! Now pattern gets much easier.
12
Next part is Cat’s head.

69) Sc 51
70) Sc 6, inc, {sc 4, inc}*4, sc 11, dec, sc 12 (55)
71) {Sc 8, inc}*6, sc 1 (61)
72) Sc 46, dec, sc 13 (60)
73) {Sc 9, inc}*6 (66)

Now work even for 9 rows:

74) -82) Sc 66 – 9 rows
83) {Sc 9, dec}*6 (60)
84) Sc 60
85) {Sc 8, dec}*6 (54)
86) Sc 54
87) {Sc 7, dec}*6 (48)
88) Sc 48

Stuff the detail.

89) {Sc 6, dec}*6 (42)

90) {Sc 5, dec}*6 (36)
91) {Sc 4, dec}*6 (30)
92) {Sc 3, dec}*6 (24)
93) {Sc 2, dec}*6 (18)
94) {Sc 1, dec}*6 (12)
95) Dec 6 (6), close the opening (see description below)

Central line of the detail is marked in the picture below with the black thread of yarn.
Central line goes through the centers of the second, third, fourth and fifth “Pit” (sections of
Slip stitches)

13
 How to close the opening
1) Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn
needle.

2) Insert the needle from the center and under the front loop only. Draw the yarn
through. Pick up all the remaining stitches the same way.

3) Grab the yarn and pull until the hole is tightly closed.

4) Make a double knot.

5) Exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip it right against
the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).

14
Paws - 4 details
Use yellow yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.
Front paws (2 details):

0) Chain 8
1) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 4, hdc 1, make 3 hdc into the last stitch, turn over and
start crocheting from another side of the chain: hdc 1, sc 4, 3 sc into the last stitch (19)
2) Sc 1, sc3into1, sc 5, hdc 1, (dc2into1)*3, sc 5, hdc 1, sc3into1, sc 1 (26)
3) Sc 2, sc3into1, sc 5, hdc 1, dc 1, (dc 1, dc2into1)*3, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 5, sc3into1, sc 2 (33)

4) Sc 3, dec, sc 7, hdc 9, sc 7, dec, sc 3 (31)

It is not absolutely necessary, but if you want Dog

O’Cat’s paws to hold their shape, you can cut soles
out of felt or cardboard, using the shape you got
after row 4) as a stencil.

15
5) Dec, sc 8, (hdc 2, hdc2into1)*4, sc 6, sl.st 3 (34)
6) Sl.st 3, sc 6, hdc 16, sc 6, sl.st 3 (34)
7) Repeat row 6)
8) Sl.st 3, sc 5, hdc dec 9, sc 5, sl.st 3 (25)

Put the sole inside and stuff the detail.

9) Sl.st 4, sc 3, hdc3tog*4, sc 3, sl.st 3 (17)

That is how you make hdc3tog:

1) Yarn over. Insert the hook under the FRONT LOOP of the 1st stitch and draw through the
loop. Repeat with the next 2 stitches.

2) Pull the loop through all those loops, that you have on the hook (7 of them)

10) Sc 7, front loops only sc 5, sc 5 (17)

11) Sc 1, dec, sc 14 (16)

Now work even for 4 rows:

12) -15) Sc 16 – 4 rows

16) Sc 2,dec, sc 6, inc, sc 5 (16)

17) Sc 16
16
18) Sc 2,dec, sc 6, inc, sc 5 (16)
19) Sc 16
20) Sc 16
21) Sc 2,dec, sc 6, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 3 (17)

Stuff the detail.

Now work even for 8 rows:

22) -29) Sc 17 – 8 rows

Stuff the detail.

30) Sc 2, sl.st 6, sc 2, hdc 7 (17)
31) Sc 1, finish as an open piece.

Stuff the detail.

Back right paw:

Repeat rows 0)-29) of the front paws.
30) Hdc 7, sc 2, sl.st 1, leave the row unfinished. Finish
as an open piece.

Back left paw:

Repeat rows 0)-29) of the front paws.
30) Sc 3, hdc 7, sc 2, sl.st 1, leave the row unfinished.
Finish as an open piece.
17
 How to finish an open piece
1) Make a slip stitch to the next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving about 40 cm (16“) long tail
(you will use it later to sew detail together). Draw the yarn tail through the loop.

2) Insert the hook through the next stitch from FRONT to BACK and draw the yarn tail
through.

3) Insert the hook through the next stitch from BACK to FRONT and draw the yarn tail
through.

My TIP (invisible): See below how to finish an open piece the way, that you cannot spot the
ending of row (it is especially important for such parts as eyes, patches of light on noses and
spots on the body, where you definitely need an even edge).

1) Pull the tail under the both loops of the first stitch of the previous row

2) Pull the tail back, under the FRONT loop of the last stitch of the row

18
Separate the toes with the black thread of yarn:

View from the top: View from the bottom:

Cat’s nose
Use brown yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 11
1) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 8, make 3 sc into the last stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 8, skip the last stitch (22)
2) {Inc 3, sc 8}*2 (28)
3) ({Sc 1, inc}*3, sc 8)*2 (34)
4) ({Sc 2, inc}*3, sc 8)*2 (40)
5) {Sc 8, dec}*4 (36)
6) {Sc 7, dec}*4 (32)
7) {Sc 6, dec}*4 (28)
8) {Sc 5, dec}*4 (24)

Finish as an open piece.

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail to attach the nose to the
body.

19
Patch of light on Cat’s nose
Use ginger yarn. Divide the thread into 2 parts, to make it thinner, you don’t want this detail to be too trick. Use 2 mm hook.

0) Chain 8
1) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 6, make 3 sc into the last stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 6, skip the last stitch (18)
2) Inc 3, sc 6, inc 3, sl.st 2, leave the row unfinished. Finish as an open piece (invisible).

Cat’s right eye

Use thin white yarn and 2 mm hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12 )
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {Sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
5) {Sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
6) Change the color! Proceed with the black thin yarn:
Back loops only! sl.st 30

Finish as an open piece (invisible). Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of the detail.

20
Cat’s left eye
Use thin white yarn and 2 mm hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Hdc2into1, Inc 5 (12 )
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {Sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
5) Sl.st 1, change the color! Proceed with the black thin yarn: Back loops only! sl.st 24

Finish as an open piece (invisible). Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of the detail.

Insert plastic safety eyes into the details as it is shown in the picture below
(6 mm into the right eye, 7 mm into the left eye):

Different sizes of the eyes are used to add perspective: that trick gives a feeling, that the
right eye is farther than the left one.

21
Cat’s left ear
Use yellow yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 3 in 2nd stitch
2) Sc 1, inc, sc 1 (4)
3) Sc 1, inc, sc 2 (5)
4) Sc 2, sc3into1, sc 2 (7)
5) Sc 2, sc3into1, sc 2 (7)
6) Sc 3, sc3into1, sc 3 (9)
7) Sc 4, sc3into1, sc 4 (11)
8) Sc 5, sc3into1, sc 5 (13)
9) Sc 6, sc3into1, sc 5, inc (16)
10) Sc 7, sc3into1, sc 8 (18)
11) Sc 8, sc3into1, sc 9 (20)
12) Inc, sc 8, sc3into1, sc 10 (23)
13) Dec, sc 7, hdc 2, sc3into1, hdc 2, sc 7, dec (23)
14) Sc 11, leave the row unfinished.
Finish as an open piece. Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of the detail.

Cat’s right ear

Use yellow yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 3 in 2nd stitch
2) Sc 1, inc, sc 1 (4)
3) Sc 1, inc, sc 2 (5)
4) Sc 2, sc3into1, sc 2 (7)
5) Sc 3, sc3into1, sc 3 (9)
6) Sc 4, sc3into1, sc 4 (11)
7) Sc 5, sc3into1, sc 5 (13)
8) Sc 13
9) Sc 13
10) Sl.st 2, sc 2, hdc2into1, dc2into1*3,
hdc2into1, sc 2, sl.st 2 (18)
Finish as an open piece. Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of the detail.

22
Cat’s lip + teeth
Use yellow and white yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 25
1) Make 1 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 22, make 3 sc into the last stitch, turn over and start crocheting
from another side of the chain: sc 22, skip the last stitch (48)
2) Dec, sc 19, {hdc 1, hdc2into1}*2, dc2into1*2, hdc 1, hdc2into1, hdc 1, sc 16, dec (not
invisible: the usual one) (51)
3) Dec (not invisible: the usual one), sl.st 22, inc 7, sc 3, sl.st 10, sc 7 (57)
4) Sl.st 2 change the color! Proceed with the white yarn:
sl.st 1, sc 9, hdc 6, dc 5, dc2into1*2, hdc 1, sl.st 1, leave the row unfinished, ch 1,
turn to the wrong side,
5) Sc 1 into the 3-rd stitch, sc 1, hdc2into1, dc2into1*3, dc 9, hdc 6, sc 2, sl.st 1.

Finish as an open piece. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail to attach the detail to the head.

23
Dog’s head
Use yellow yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {Sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
5) {Sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
6) {Sc 4, inc} *6 (36)
7) Sc 36
8) {Sc 5, inc} *6 (42)
9) Sc 42
10) {Sc 6, inc} *6 (48)
11) Sc 48
12) {Sc 7, inc} *6 (54)

Now work even for 13 rows:

13) -25) Sc 54 – 13 rows

26) {Sc 7, dec} *6 (48)

27) Sc 48
28) {Sc 6, dec} *6 (42)
29) Sc 42

Stuff the detail.

30) {Sc 5, dec} *6 (36)

31) Sc 36
32) {Sc 4, dec} *6 (30)
33) {Sc 3, dec} *6 (24)

Stuff the detail.

34) {Sc 2, dec} *6 (18)

35) {Sc 1, dec} *6 (12)
36) Dec 6 (6), close the opening.
24
Dog’s ears – 2 details
Use yellow yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) Sc 18
5) Sc 18
6) Dec, sc 16 (17)
7) Sc 17
8) Sc 17
9) Dec, sc 15 (16)
10) Sc 16
11) Dec, sc 14 (15)
12) Sc 15
13) Dec, sc 13 (14)
14) Sc 14
15) Dec, sc 12 (13)
16) Sc 13
17) Dec, sc 11 (12)
18) Dec, sc 10 (11)
19) Dec, sc 9 (10)
20) Dec, sc 8 (9)
21) Sc 9
22) Sc 9, finish as an open piece.
Cut the yarn, leaving a tail to attach the detail to the head.

Dog’s nose
Use thin blue yarn and 2 mm hook.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12)
3) {Sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {Sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
25
5) {Sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
6) {Sc 4, inc} *6 (36)
7) {Sc 5, inc} *6 (42)
8) {Sc 6, inc} *6 (48)
9) {Sc 7, inc} *6 (54)

Now work even for 7 rows:

10) -16) Sc 54 – 7 rows

17) {Sc 7, dec} *6 (48)

18) {Sc 6, dec} *6 (42) Finish as an open piece. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail to attach the detail to the head.

Patch of light on Dog’s nose

Use thin white yarn and 2 mm hook.

3) Chain 12
4) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 9,
make 3 sc into the last stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain:
sc 1, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 1 (20 )

Finish as an open piece (invisible).

26
Dog’s right eye
Use thin white yarn and 2 mm hook.

0) Chain 14
1) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 11, make 3 sc into the last stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 11, skip the last stitch (28)
2) {Inc 3, sc 11}*2 (34)
3) ({Sc 1, inc}*3, sc 11)*2 (40)
4) ({Sc 2, inc}*3, hdc 3, dc 5, hdc 3)*2 (46)
5) ({Sc 3, inc}*3, sc 11)*2 (52)
6) Sc 2, change the color! Proceed with the black thin yarn: Back loops only! sl.st 50
7) Back loops only! Sl.st 3, finish as an open piece (invisible).

Dog’s left eye

Use thin white yarn and 2 mm hook.

0) Chain 12
1) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 9, make 3 sc into the last stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 9, skip the last stitch (24)
2) {Inc 3, hdc 2, dc 5, hdc 2}*2 (30)
3) ({Sc 1, inc}*3, hdc 1, dc 7, hdc 1)*2 (36)
4) Sc 2, change the color! Proceed with the black thin yarn: Back loops only! sl.st 34
5) Back loops only! Sl.st 3, inc 4, front loops only! sc 14, inc 4, sc 11 (44)
6) Back loops only! Sl.st 3, finish as an open piece (invisible).

Insert plastic safety eyes into the details as it is

shown on the picture below (10 mm into the right
eye, 9 mm into the left eye).
Different sizes of the eyes are used to add
perspective: that trick gives a feeling, that the left
eye is farther than the right one.

27
Dog’s teeth
Use thin white yarn and 2 mm hook.

0) Chain 13
1) Make 5 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, skip 1
stitch, sl.st 1,
{sc6into1, skip 1 stitch, sl.st 1}*2

Finish as an open piece.

Spot nr.1 and nr.6

Use ginger yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 3
1) Dc 9 in 3nd stitch, sl.st to to join at the end of the round (10)
2) Ch 3, Dc 1 into the same stitch, Dc2into1*9, sl.st to top of ch 3 to close round (20)
Finish as an open piece (invisible). Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of the detail.

Spot nr.2, nr.4 and nr.7

Use ginger yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 3
1) Dc 9 in 3nd stitch, sl.st to to join at the end of the round (10)
2) Ch 3, Dc 1 into the same stitch, Dc2into1*9, sl.st to top of ch 3 to close round (20)
3) Ch 3, Dc 2 into the next stitch (increase),{Dc 1, Dc2into1} *9, sl.st to top of ch 3 to close round (30)
Finish as an open piece (invisible). Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of the detail.

Spot nr 3
Use ginger yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 11
1) Make 3 dc to the 3rd stitch from the hook, dc 7, make 3 dc into the last stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain: dc 7, skip the last stitch (20 )
2) {Inc 3, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2} *2 (26) Finish as an open piece (invisible). Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of
the detail.

28
Spot nr.5
Use ginger yarn. Use 2.5 mm hook.

0) Chain 3
1) Dc 9 in 3nd stitch, sl.st to to join at the end of the round (10)
2) Ch 3, Dc 1 into the same stitch, Dc2into1*9, sl.st to top of ch 3 to close round (20)
3) Ch 3, Dc 2 into the next stitch (increase),{Dc 1, Dc2into1} *9, sl.st to top of ch 3 to close round (30)
4) Ch 3, Dc 1 into the next stitch, Dc 2 into the 2nd stitch (increase), {Dc 2, Dc2into1} *9, sl.st to top of ch 3
to close round (40)
5) Ch 3, Dc 2, Dc 2 into the 3nd stitch (increase), {Dc 3, Dc2into1} *9, sl.st to top of ch 3 to close round
(50)
Finish as an open piece (invisible). Hide the tail of yarn on the back side of the detail.

29
 Assembling
Right placement of the face features is critically important for this toy, because you want to
maintain resemblance.

That is why I have marked the exact placement of the details with the thread of yarn (blue
and pink) and will show you the exact row numbers in the pictures.

I have also marked some rows with the pink thread of yarn (and advise you to do so as well),
so you don’t have to start counting from the beginning every single time you are attaching a
new detail.

The central line of the body also has to be marked! It goes through the centers of the
second, third, fourth and fifth “Pit” (sections of Slip stitches)

Before you start sewing details to the body, attach all of them with sewing pins and check if:
- Tops of Cat’s and Dog’s eyes are on one line
- Tops of Cat’s and Dog’s heads are on one line
- Lower part of Dog’s right eye is on the same line with the lower part of Cat’s
smile

Now, when you have guiding lines, let’s put this naughty kid together! :)

30
Dog

31
 How to sew Dog’s head to the body

1) Mark the center of the body with the thread of contrast yarn.

2) Find the right placement of the Dog’s head (see my suggestion in the picture after
step 4))

3) Mark the area, where opening of the body “meets” the head with the sewing
pins.

4) Mark this area with the thread of yarn.

32
 5) Place the opening of the body exactly on the marked area on the head and
attach it with sewing pins.
6) Now you can start to whip stitch the pieces together:
Go down through BOTH LOOPS of the stitch of the last row of the body and
bring the needle back directly UNDER the next stitch, grabbing 3-4 mm of
crocheted fabric BEHIND the marked area of the head with it.
NB! Draw the yarn very tight after every stitch!

7) When there are 5-6 whip stitches left to the end, remove the contrast thread
of the yarn, and firmly stuff the body. Complete attaching

8) Secure the last stitch with a knot. Use your yarn needle to hide the tail inside your
work, then exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip
it right against the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).

How to sew Dog’s nose to the head

Attach the nose to the area shown in the picture below.

33
 How to sew Dog’s eyes to the head
Attach Dog’s eyes as it is shown in the picture below.

Right eye Left eye

How to sew Dog’s teeth to the head

Attach Dog’s teeth as it is shown in the picture below.

34
 How to sew Dog’s ears
Attach Dog’s ears to the places shown in the picture below.

How to sew the patch of light to the Dog’s nose

Attach the patch of light to the nose as it is shown in the picture below.

35
 How to make Dog’s smile

1) Fasten black thread of yarn under the muzzle.

2) Make a long stitch and insert the needle into the place shown with the pink pin in the
first picture below. Make a perpendicular short stitch to finish the smile.

3) Find the desired curve of the long stitch and fix the smile line with the pins.

4) With the help of a brush, soak the long stitch with sugar syrup (1/4 of a glass of hot
water + 3 ts of sugar). Leave it to harden overnight. I
If you are using an acrylic yarn, use transparent glue.
5) Sew the “smile” securely to the face with a transparent black thread.

6) “Frame” the teeth using the same technique.

36
 How to crochet hairsprings on the Dog’s head
Attach the black thin thread of yarn to the head and make a chain: ch 9.
Cut the yarn and pull up the loop.
How to fix hairspring in one position and secure the end of the chain use the glue as it
shown in my video on YouTube:: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjeVQbtt64Y&t=14s
Repeat with two other hairsprings. Second chain could be longer: Ch 11.

37
Cat

38
 How to sew Cat’s lip & teeth to the head
Stuff the lip a little bit before attaching. Attach the lip & teeth detail to the area shown in
the first picture below.

You want to fold the yellow part of the detail as it is shown in the second picture below, so
you could get a distinctive Cat’s upper lip.

You also will have to bend this detail a little bit, to get a curve of a smile.

39
 How to sew Cat’s eyes to the head
Attach the eyes as it is shown in the picture below.

Right eye Left eye

40
 How to sew Cat’s nose to the head
Attach the nose to the area shown in the picture below.

How to sew Cat’s left ear to the head

Attach the left ear as it is shown in the picture below.

41
 How to sew Cat’s right ear to the head
Attach the right ear as it is shown in the picture below.

How to sew the patch of light to the Cat’s nose

Attach the patch of light as it is shown in the picture below.

42
 How to make Cat’s smile
Using the same technique, as you used for the Dog’s smile, make Cat’s smile as it is shown
in the picture below.

How to make cheek line and dots on the Cat’s cheek

Make the black stitches and dots as it is shown in the picture below.

43
 How to sew spots to the body
Attach the spots as it is shown in the picture below.

How to paws to the body

Attach paws as it is shown in the picture below, using the same technique you used to
attach Dog’s head.

Back paws should be moved 2 rows forward toward the heads as it shown in the picture
below. There should be about 2 single crochet stitches between the legs.

The last row of paws has a lower part (the part, where Slip stitches were made) and the
higher part. So, lower part should be placed entad and the higher part should be placed
outward.

44
45
46
 I know, that you cannot believe it, but that is IT!
You made it!
Your DOG O’CAT is alive and it’s the most amazing toy in the world!

If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me on Facebook –
@monoxatoys or via email monoxa.handmade@gmail.com
I hope I will see you again soon!

47