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Designing and Building a Speaker Box

Example
This example of a designing a speaker box makes use of many of the
calculators found on this site. You should also review the Speaker Building
Guide for additional help.

For this example, I picked 3 ScanSpeak drivers for a 3-way speaker - the
same 3 used on the Crossover Tutorial. This design is old and the
characteristics of these drivers have since changed and/or been discontinued.
These 3 drivers might be smaller than what is expected of a typical 3-way
system. The mid is 4" and the woofer is 6.5" in size, but this system is still
capable of producing deep frequencies at 35Hz. The drivers I chose (with
specifications provided by the manufacturer) are:

Freq. Impe Sensitivi Xma

Driver Model Size Range d. ty x

Tweet D2008/85 20m 2k-30k Hz 8 90 db

er 12 m ohms SPL

Mid 13M/8636 4" 200-4k Hz 8 88 db 1.5m

ohms SPL m

Woofe 18W/8543 6.5" 35-3.2k Hz 8 89 db 6.5m

r ohms SPL m

Equivalent Volume Free Air Resonance Total Q Electrical Q

Driver (Vas) (Fs) (Qts) (Qes)

Tweet 1000Hz
er
 Equivalent Volume Free Air Resonance Total Q Electrical Q
Driver (Vas) (Fs) (Qts) (Qes)

Mid 3 liters 77Hz 0.32 0.36

Woofe 49 liters 30Hz 0.22 0.26

r

We will first use the Sealed vs. Ported Speaker Box Calculator to determine
if a sealed or a ported enclosure should be used. The Sealed vs. Ported
calculator uses the formula below. If the EBP is less than 50, then a Sealed
Enclosure is recommended. Above 90~100 and a Ported Enclosure is
recommended. Between 50 & 90 either type would work.

Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP) = Free Air Resonance (Fs) / Driver Electrical
"Q" (Qes)
The tweeter in our example is already sealed and doesn't require an
enclosure. The EBP of our midrange and woofer drivers are calculated as:

Mid EBP = 77 / .36 = 213

Woofer EBP = 30 / .26 = 115
Both values are well above 90 and call for Ported Enclosures. To keep this
example interesting, I am going to ignore these results and use one sealed
enclosure and one ported enclosure to show the differences between the two.

A sealed chamber will be used for the mid and a ported enclosure for the
woofer. Calculating box volume for a sealed box requires Vas, Fs, & Qts. We will
use the standard .707 value for Qtc for a smooth roll-off at the low end.
Calculating box volume and port size for a ported enclosure requires Vas, Fs,
Qts, and the cone diameter.

To calculate the speaker box volume, we will use the Speaker Box Designer.
We must remember to change to metric units in this calculator - all ScanSpeak
numbers are in mm & liters. The sealed box midrange driver gives us:
 .03 cubic feet (0.77 liters) is an extremely small space for a speaker.
Remember we should have been using a ported enclosure for this driver. The
speaker itself is only 4" round. If we go with a minimum 4" x 4" box (the smallest
the speaker will allow), then the box can only be about 3" deep - But I am of
course ignoring the space taken up by the speaker itself and the internal
bracing. Also, these are internal dimensions. The thickness of the wood will
make the box larger.

ScanSpeak doesn't provide driver displacement information, so we will use

the Driver Displacement Calculator. We will use the diagrams provided by
ScanSpeak to enter numbers into our Displacement Calculator.
 The Displacement Calculator is a best guess to the displacement of the
speaker driver. It is not exact, but the more information you provide the better it
will be. We will use 103mm as the cone diameter - not the 130mm diameter of
the outer metal edge of the driver. Mounting depth is 45.5mm and magnet
diameter is 90mm. Magnet height is not provided, so we measured a value of
30mm assuming this drawing is to scale. If we had the drivers in hand, then we
could measure them to be sure. We also need to indicate that we will be flush
mounting the driver and using 3/4" thick lumber in our enclosure.
 Now we are ready to use the Speaker Box Enclosure Volume Calculator to
determine the outer dimensions of the speaker box. Also be sure to read
the Help for the Speaker Box Calculator.

To use this calculator, we enter a speaker diameter of 4", the Box Volume
(0.77 liters), Driver Displacement Volume (0.24 liters), Wood Thickness (3/4" -
same as above), and indicate we will be using 3/4" battens. Now it is up to the
user to adjust the width, height, and depth of the speaker box until the volume is
.77 liters. The width and height of the box must be at least 4" to make room for
the speaker itself. We are going to use 7" as the width here so that the same box
width will also work for our 6.5" woofer.
 The Speaker Box Volume Calculator also provides the size of each panel of
the box. We will not use this information as we will be building a single
enclosure for all 3 drivers.

Now for the woofer. When using the ported speaker box calculator, the driver
size (Effective Cone Diameter - D) is only used to determine port width. Using the
Speaker Box Calculator for the ported box for the woofer gives us:
 Our calculator gives us a .48ft3 enclosure with a 2" wide circular x 4.26" long
port. Note: The port is given in both standard and metric units. These numbers
are not the same. 2" = 5.08cm, not 5 cm exactly. The port length is calculated
twice. Once for a port exactly 2" in diameter, and one for a port exactly 5cm in
diameter. The assumption is that you will be purchasing an off the shelf port that
only comes in nominal sizes.

Again, we don't have the woofer driver displacement, so we will use our
calculator to estimate it. Here is the ScanSpeak diagram.
And here is the displacement calculator.
 So we need a 13.64 liter box with a 2" diameter 4.26" long port and a 0.61
liter driver displacement. We want to keep the driver width the same 7" as the
midrange speaker as above, so the additional volume will come from increasing
the height and depth.
 The next step is to decide on the general size and shape of the speaker box.
Some possible options are shown below. The box volume for these drivers allow
for a bookshelf style speaker, but for this example a floor standing speaker will
be used instead. Note: It is not required to use the entire speaker box for the
driver enclosure, so the outer dimensions of the speaker itself can be as large as
desired.
From left to right:

 A bookshelf speaker
 A floor standing speaker
 The side view of the same floor standing speaker. Note: the woofer will be
ported in all of these design options, even when it isn't shown. Notice that
the chamber for the midrange driver isn't the full depth of the speaker.
 Side view of an alternate design where the speaker is angled back. In an
ideal speaker configuration, the back of each speaker cone lines up
vertically. When flush mounted to a vertical piece of wood, the woofer will
be a couple of inches behind the mid & tweeter.
 Another side view alternate configuration. In this design, only the front
board is angled. The math in calculating chamber volume gets a little more
complicated, but the build may get simpler with having only one angled
side. There are also less balance problems. This design also leverages the
fact that the top chambers are smaller (our midrange chamber needs to be
small) so that the mid chamber can extend to the full depth of the speaker.
 In the final configuration there are two 6.5" woofers. Two woofers could
be used to help with the fact that the woofers have lower power handling
than the other drivers in this system and two woofers will also help in the
low end frequencies. Adding a second driver doesn't simply mean you
should double the box and port sizes. It might be a good starting point, but
experimentation would be required to achieve the desired result. Without
adequate testing equipment, you would be better off sticking to a simpler
system unless you were following the published design from someone
 else. Searching online for DIY ScanSpeak 18W/8543 reveals several
published designs using 1 or 2 of these drivers.

Some other thinks to consider:

 The box depth must be at least the port length + the port diameter - not
really a problem for this system.
 Stay away from perfect cubes when determining speaker dimensions. The
width, height and depth should not be the same value. It should be OK if 2
of the numbers are near the same value.
 Account for the size of the internal bracing and speaker driver
displacement when determining the size of each chamber - again not a
problem because our calculator does this for us.
 Account for the size of the crossover when determining the size of each
chamber. Since this speaker has an unused chamber at the bottom the
crossover will go there. This allows for changing/repairing the crossover
without taking the speaker apart.

For some tips on the box construction, see the Speaker Building Guide.

For help in designing the crossover, see the Crossover

Tutorial and Crossover Guide.
 3 Way Crossover Design Example
Note, this sample crossover makes use of many of the calculators found on
the menu on the left. You should also review the Crossover Guide for help with
this example.

For this example, I picked 3 ScanSpeak drivers for a 3-way speaker (the
same 3 used on the Speaker Box Example. Note: This example old and the
characteristics of these drivers have since changed. These drivers were not
picked because of how well they worked together, but rather because they have
problems that can be solved with the proper circuit. The drivers I chose were:

Frequency Impe Sensitivi Response

Driver Model Range d ty Fs Curve

Tweet D2008/85 2k-30k Hz 8 90 db 1000 Chart

er 12 ohms SPL Hz

Mid 13M/8636 200-4k Hz 8 88 db Chart

ohms SPL

Woofe 18W/8543 35-3.2k Hz 8 89 db Chart

r ohms SPL

All of the drivers are 8 ohms. There are no differences in output caused by
different impedances with the drivers. The tweeter has 2db sensitivity over the
mid, and the woofer has 1db sensitivity over the mid. Resistors will be used to
balance out the sensitivity/load problems. An L-Pad / Driver Attenuation Circuit
will be used to lower the tweeter output by 1db and the woofer output by 2db.

The Fs (free air resonance) of the tweeter is at 1000Hz. This is the frequency
at which the tweeter will resonate, and produce a large positive spike in the
frequency response. A series-notch filter will be used to remove this spike.

You want to pick crossover points between the two drivers. Remember that
it is a base 2 logarithmic scale. For the mid/woofer crossover there are 4 octaves
between 200-3.2k Hz, 200-400-800-1600-3200. 800 Hz is the middle frequency,
with 2 octaves flat in either direction. For the tweeter/mid crossover, there are
only 1 octaves, 2000-4000. 3k Hz is the crossover point with 1/2 octave stable in
either direction. These two drivers have little overlap, and normally would not be
used together.
 In the mid/woofer combo, the frequency range / response is stable 2 octaves
beyond the crossover point, and for the tweeter/mid, only 1/2 octave. Therefore,
a higher order crossover must be used with the tweeter/mid than with the
mid/woofer. A 2nd order, maybe even a 1st order crossover can be used with the
mid/woofer combo, while a minimum 3rd order crossover should be used with the
mid/tweeter.

Some people believe that it is best to use a low order crossovers when
possible, preferably only 1st order. This does have some benefits. With the
greater frequency overlap, voices will not seem to jump from one driver to
another as quickly as they would with a steep crossover. It also follows the
minimalist approach where the simpler the circuit, the less distortion and
modification of the signal is introduced. The problem with 1st order crossovers is
that the frequency overlap in the drivers would have to always be at least 2
octaves (or more) in each direction from the crossover point. It would probably
require at least 4 drivers.

Another belief is that even order (2, 4, 6...) order crossovers should be
avoided. Even order crossovers tend to have spikes or dips in the frequency
response around the crossover point. These spikes can be as bad as -30db, but
can easily be solved by reversing the polarity of only one of the speakers,
limiting the spike to about +- 3db.

For this example, a 3rd order crossovers at 3000Hz and a 1st order crossover
at 800Hz will be used. The Crossover Calculator was used to determine the
crossover components. These are the results of the 2 crossover calculations:
 Now, these two diagrams must be combined into a 3-way diagram. When
working with 3 or more speakers, at least one speaker must be bandpass.
Bandpass means that the speaker has a high pass filter (HPF) that filters out low
frequencies and lets high frequencies pass through, and a low pass filter (LPF)
that filters out high frequencies and lets low frequencies pass through. In this
system, only the mid will be bandpass. When wiring multiple speakers, you
usually start with the largest speaker. All speakers above that one are run
through the HPF. In our 3-way system, both the mid and tweeter are run though
the HPF from the woofer/mid crossover.

This diagram has been simplified, and only the positive (+) lead is shown, but
you get the idea. The reason for going woofer to tweeter is so that the HPF is
before the LPF for each bandpass speaker. The inductors (coils) in a LPF have
resistance. This resistance affects the impedance of the entire circuit. If you put
the LPF before the HPF, the amp will not have a stable load to work with.
 Although the diagrams in this document show each of the high speakers
being run through multiple high pass filters, this is not necessary. In the above
diagram, the input for the second and third crossover could be directly tied to
the main input instead of the high output from another crossover.

The next step in designing the crossover circuit is to design the l-pads to
equalize the different driver sensitivities. 2db needs to be removed from the
tweeter, and 1db from the woofer. The L-Pad / Driver Attenuation
Calculator was used to determine the L-Pad components.
 The last design step is the series notch filter. The Fs is at 1000Hz, and the
crossover point is at 3000Hz with a 3rd order crossover. The resonance spike is
over one octave from the crossover point, and may be damped enough that it will
not be noticed, but it will be added to the circuit anyway. The Series Notch
Filter Calculator was used to determine the necessary components.
 Now, the crossovers, l-pads, and series notch filter must be combined into
one circuit. There is no standard as to which parts come first, but the common
method is crossover then l-pad then series notch filter.

This is the complete circuit for the 3-way system. Note: A bi-amp/bi-wired
system would look something like this.

With the crossover designed the next step is to procure the parts: the
capacitors, resistors, and inductors. See the Crossover Guide for explanations
on the different types of these components (Mylar vs. polypropylene
capacitors...). In the end, it is about how much money you want to spend, which
should be no more than half the cost of the drivers.

When you buy inductors, capacitors, and resistors there are usually only
certain values available. These values are referred to the E ranges are discussed
in Resistor Colors. That is why the values in the crossover tables
for 1st, 2nd, 3rd order Butterworth crossovers have slightly different values
than what the Crossover Calculator produces. The tables use commonly
available inductors and capacitors. A 16.58uF Capacitor (as required for the first
crossover) is not something you can find in a store but you should be able to find
something close. You can also use multiple different capacitors, inductors, and
resistors in series or parallel to achieve the desired value.

With the crossover designed and parts in hand, the next step is to build the
crossover. For this step, you will need a piece of wood to mount the parts to, a
hot glue gun and some glue sticks, a soldering iron and solder, and finally some
wire. Any piece of wood will work as a mounting board. You can even use the
MDF for the speaker itself. First, layout the components on the board according
to the crossover diagram that you have made. Try to place the components close
enough to each other so that jumper wires are not required to connect the
different components together. Cut the board to size once you have decided on
the layout.

Once the components are in place, use your hot glue gun to mount them to
the board. Be sure that the inductor coils are not near each other and that each
one is on a different axis to eliminate "inductive coupling" (See the Crossover
Guide for more info).

Now solder the different components together. If possible, solder the

components directly to each other. Otherwise, use short jumper wires to
connect them. I prefer using 12AWG for the crossover but it is not required.

Finally, mount the crossover in your speaker, connect the crossover leads to
the back of your binding post, and connect the speakers to the crossover.
Positive (+) to Red. Negative (-) to Black. When testing your speaker, pay
attention to possible Phase Shift problems (See the Crossover Guide) where the
sound volume dips significantly at one of the crossover points. If you suspect
you have a Phase Shift problem, reverse the leads (+/-) on one of the speakers to
see if the system gets louder. If so, then you have found and solved your
problem.

The final step in any design is experimentation. Remember that every

component (capacitors, inductors, and resistors) each exhibit all 3 properties
(capacitance, inductance, and resistance). This is why thicker copper wire is
desired for inductors - to lower its resistance. No design is perfect, and
improvements can be made by making small changes to the crossover. This may
not be possible if you don't have an electronics shop filled with parts. Ordering
foil inductors one at a time can get expensive. The best alternative may be to
wind your own inductor coils using the Inductor Calculator. Start large and then
unwind (but don't cut) the inductor to experiment with different values.