DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

QUALITY MANUAL
KUMAR & TYAGI CLOTHING

Training and Development of

Supervisor

5 May 2014

[The document contains the Quality Manual for a self assumed company]

Submitted By –
Faculty In-charge –
Neetek Kumar
Mohammad Umar
Prashant Tyagi
DFT
DFT
SEM VI
 Madura Garments Exports Ltd – Quality Manual

1. Quality Assurance

1.1 QUALITY POLICY

MADURA GARMENTS EXPORTS LTD. is committed to comply with

requirements and continuosly improve the Quality management system and
supply high quality garments on time to enhance customer satisfaction
through training and involvement of employees.

1.2 QUALITY OBJECTIVES

1. To increase the Production from the existing level every year.

2. Continuous improvement
a) Productivity
b) Waste elimination
c) House keeping

3. To make employees multiskilled through training and development.

4. To maintain and improve Workorder throughput time

5. To reduce seconds percentage

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2. Quality checkpoints Fabric& Trims status

NOT OK Fabric 100% Visual inspection &

trims 10% inspection
Check trims& fabric as
per the Qty.
RTS
OK
Issue to Cutting

Laying

Style descriptions,
Fabric code, W.O. no,
Design approval, Fabric
one way or two ways?

Quality check at the

beginning of the lay

Cad checking against master

copy, Shrinkage, marker length
& width, proper scrambled sizes,
Re-do all parts in marker, Line
balancing?
NOT OK .
OK
Check for the first ply
Shade, width-wise lay,
Waviness, Bowing?

Re-do NOT OK
OK
Marker placement, Line
balancing, No. of plies?
Re-do
aaa NOT OK
Quality check in between lay
Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches,
straight line, repeat width, Line
balancing, pairing, shade ok, Fabric
defects marked IsCheck Check
for W,OforW.O
W.O.no,Centre no, 3
no,bubbling,Fus
line,Repeat,Balancing,St
weaving
Is Issue ofdefect, Style
W.O.no,size,parts
Quality
line,one ed Quality
passedway
cutokay?
verification, Centre
bundleno,numbering,lay
parts to
Re
Re-Do
Re-Do
-Do
Re-Do notch, thread,Stain,lini
no okay? check
Fabric
 line

Madura Garments Exports Ltd – Quality Manual

Is W.O .no, size, central line, notches,

NOT OK
straight line, repeat width, Line balancing,
pairing, shade ok, defects marked
Re-do
NOT OK
After laying Check the following points at the
start and end of cutting process.
Is W.O .no, size, parts,
Re-do bundle no, numbering, lay,
NOT OK shade OK?

OK
Cut parts; check the following points
Is W.O. no.,
Re-do Centerline,Repeat,
Balancing,St line,one
NOT OKway,shade OK ?

Check for W.O. no., weaving

defect, Style verification, Center
notch, Fabric damage, pairing,
Re-do shape, St line

NOT OK
OK
Quality check during fusing

Check for W.O no,

bubbling, Fused
thread, Stain, lining
Re-do

NOT OK
OK

Issue of Quality passed cut

parts to sewing

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Display of reference shirt with comments & receive

information for checking

Re-Work NOT OK
Check point 1 In- line inspection by
Collar inspection Traffic light System
Collar visual
OK Standard, measurement collar
Re-Work NOT OK
Check point 2
front Left and right front parts.
pairing Visual standard, measurement
Re-Work NOT OK OK

Check point3
trimming Assembled shirt,
& inspection Measurement,
Re-Work NOT OK OK visual Standard.

End Line AQL Audit

at AQL 2.5

OK

Release to
finishing

Seconds & alterations

NOT OK Checkpoint 4
Final Inspection Identify first quality
Seconds and rejects

NOT OK
Trolley wise
AQL audit (2.5)
OK

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Folding &
Packing

R OK
E
J AQL NOT OK
C Pre Final Audit/
T Finished Stock Audit
S (10%, 25% and 50%)
Offer for
final
inspection OK

ACCEPT
Release to Warehouse

3. Quality Procedures

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3.1 Fabric Inspection

No sooner Fabric is in house, The Fabric inspection report, Shrinkage report & 100%
Shade bands should be submitted within 48 hours. Fabric is to be cut only after the above
reports are submitted & only if they are approved for bulk production. 100% of the Fabric
is to be inspected on a 4 point system & if the fabric is in doubt, further 100% should be
Inspected. While submitting the Fabric Inspection reports, all trim inspection reports
should be submitted too. If Fabric is cut without been Inspected, Total responsibility will
be on this department as it is a violation of a critical aspect. (Annexure 1)

3.1.1 Fabric Inspection. ( Inspection on 4 point system )

Purpose: To decide acceptance or rejections of fabric roll (For Wovens)

Activity Requirement

1. Take the roll. Roll to be chosen at random

2. Check the roll as per 4 points system.

3. Give penalty points for defects.

Points / 100 sq. yd. =
4. Calculate index for each individual roll. Total points in roll * 36 * 100
Total length in yards * width in
5. Calculate final average index for the inches.
total no. of rolls inspected.

6. Decide acceptance or rejectance of the

fabric

Record: Fabric inspection report

PE NALTYPO I N T S

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1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points

Classification
Faults showing in the warp Less than Over 3 inch Over 6 inch Over 9 inch.
direction of fabric. (Except 3inch. but less than but less than
Holes and tears). 6 inch. 9 inch.
Faults showing in the weft Less than Over 3 inch Over 6 inch Over 9 inch.
direction of fabric. (Except 3inch. but less than but less than
Weave stripes, weft 6 inch. 9 inch.
irregularities, holes and
tears).

I). Length of the faults is to be measured in the warp or weft direction and the direction in
which the fault is longest is the fault direction. However when the warp and weft length
are same and when the penalty of the shorter direction is heavier, take the fault of the
direction in which the penalty is heavier.

ii). When the fault in the warp direction is over 1yd, the part which is over 1yd is deemed
as fault of the same kind of others.

iii). When two or more faults overlap, apply only the faults which penalty is the heaviest.

iv). When there are two or more faults within the length of 1yd and the penalty points
come over 4 points, the points over 4 points are not added.

v). The inspector needs to be at a distance of 3 feet away from the inspection table and
the linear speed of inspection not to be less than 0.1mtrs per second.

Minimum fault sizes are shown on the Sears Fabric defect scale :-

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Knots Slubs
A – do not count A - do not count
B- Count as 1 point B - do not count
C- Count as 1 point C- Count as 1 point
D- Count as 1 point D- Count as 1 point
E- Count as 3 points E- Count as 1 point
F- Count as 3 points
G- Count as 3 points
Standards for Passing Fabric:-
Average index for inspected rolls not to exceed » 28 points / 100yd².
Maximum index for any roll not to exceed » 40 points / 100yd².

3.1.2 100% Shade Bands

If the style is a wash garment, Before & after wash Blankets should be submitted ( 3 sets
each ) covering all rolls and it has to attached in the shade continuity card (Annexure 2)
A 100% shade band covering all rolls & all colours pertaining to a certain style /
Consignment should be made & approved prior to cutting of bulk Fabric.
Process.
 No sooner the Fabric is in house, The Q/A department must ensure they get the
panels representing all rolls within 6 hours from Stores.
 Cut 6” from end of each roll. Over lock & join all panels in correct grain line
direction to be in a Blanket form.
 If the Style is a non-wash program, two sets should be prepared.
 If the Style consists of a certain wash, Then 4 Blankets should be prepared. 02
Blankets non-washed & 2 Blankets with the exact approved wash of the style.

 Once the Shade bands are ready, Dye lot or colour segregation has to be done. If
the Shade Band consists of 2-3 different shades, such shades should be segregated

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In to families marked A, B, C Etc. A copy of the Segregation of shades should be

handed over to the Stores, Cutting, and Merchandising & Production departments.
 Stores will issue & the cutting / Production will proceed as per the segregated
shades without getting mixed.

3.1.3 Shrinkage report

A 100% Shrinkage report should be submitted for all styles and the washing shrinkage
has to be performed as per the wash type required for the bulk. (Annexure 3)

3.2 Trim Inspection report

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All trims been In house should be inspected ( 10% ) & the reports submitted accordingly.

3.2.1 Trims Inspection

Purpose: To check defects and to decide Acceptance / Rejectance of trims.

Scope: Interlining, Collar bone, Label, Button, Packing Materials, Swing Ticket, Poly
bag, Product box.

Activity Requirement
A. Interlining

1. ½ meters of lining to be sent to lab. EPI / PPI and GSM

a. Bond strength
1. Take 10” * 4” of fabric strip and lining strip. Note the temperature, pressure and
2.Cut rectangular slit 6”*1” in Tissue paper of speed.
8 ‘* 4”.
3. Sandwich Tissue paper between interlining
and fabric then fuse.
4. Check Pull strength.
Pull strength to be at least 1 kg /
If by varying fusing conditions sufficient sq.cm.
strength is not achieved the lot is rejected.

b. Shrinkage Test.
1. Send two collars to lab every day for
shrinkage test.

c. Visual Inspection
1. Select the roll as per sampling plan. Check for uniformity, micro dots,
uniformity of shade.
Reject the lot is not ok.

Record: Interlining Inspection report.

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Activity Requirement
B. Labels

a. Visual Examination
1. Check lettering, color, edges as per the No weaving defects.
Master and Specifications. Shade continuity.
Smooth and straight edges.
Centered labels.

b. Color fastness test

1. Take few labels get it stitched on the
white fabric.
2. Wash with soap and wash petrol. No color bleeding.

If color bleeds rejects the lots.

Note: Selection Of all trims for the inspection to be as per sampling plan.

Activity Requirement
C. Buttons
1. Check buttons for shade, chip around Uniform in shade, gauge.
the edge. No chip.
2. Get stitched 10 buttons breaks NO breakage
stitched in machine.
3. If any one button breaks, then check No breakage.
for 10 more buttons.

If there is breakage reject the lot.

D. Packing Material

1. Check edges, slots and slot spacing. Even edges for all the trims.
Slots and Slot spacing as per the
specifications.

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Activity Requirement

E. Swing ticket
1. Inspect visually the lettering. No stains and misprints.

F. Product Box

1. Check for lettering, hinge, marks and No misprints and spread hues
color.

G. Polycovers
No misprinting and spread hues. Shade
1. Check for lettering, uniformity and continuity to be maintained.
scratches.

H. Collarbones No cut edges, point to be as per

specification.
1. Check for edges and points. Should fix firmly to the fabric.

2. Stick few collarbones on fabric to

check for glue.

If gum is insufficient, reject the lot.

Record: Trims inspection report.

3.3 Size set

Bulk production cannot be started without the QA Department approving the Size set for
each new style. Once the size set is approved, The Pattern should be checked &
authorized by this department for utilization.

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3.4 PP Meeting
A PP meeting should be organized & conducted prior to bulk production including
Buyer’s Representative, Merchandiser, Production Manager & all sectional heads,
Supervisors & Q/C’s involved with the particular style. No Production is to start without
a PP Meeting & all points to be discussed & documented in the PP meeting format
(Annexure 4). The QA Manager or the Technical Manager should write down the
minutes & file the PP meeting comments in the style file “ Technical, Quality, Packing,
Washing, Shipping ETC”.

3.5 Pilot Run

Once the Production submits the Pilot run, Bulk production should be approved based on
the performance of this cut. If it is not satisfactory, a new pilot run should be made.

3.6 Mock-ups preparation

After the handover meeting of the style to the production floor, the style requirements as
discussed in the meeting should be converted into the visual standards and displayed at
all relevant work stations as guide for the work.

3.7 Test to failure

Purpose
Testing mock up pieces (36) to demonstrate consistency in fabric, threads,
machinery. The test pieces are pulled with a force until they are destroyed establishing
the kilograms at which they are break apart.
Results details- are recorded as = Z factor.
Where there is a consistent result the Z factor will be 4 or above – Pass.
Where there is inconsistency the Z factor will be less than 4 – Fail.
Importance
These tests and the documentation are our evidence of the control to ensure the product
we make is safe. It also allows us to identify if there is any inconsistency which we need
address to improve the product safety.The TTF results are required to accompany the
master style file and should be discused at the time of hand over meeting.

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3.8 Pull Tests

Purpose
To ensure the application is button, stud, snap can withstand a set kilogram of pulling.
The recommendations are specified by our customer at 7 kg per single pull but as a safe
guard MGEL recommend our procedure is pulled at 8 kg.
Importance
To ensure the application can withstand the desired amount of strain in normal wearing
conditions. 5 Pcs randomly must be monitored closely due to product safety.

3.9 Durability Wash

Purpose
This wash test is carried out in the laboratory to ensure the garments construction is
robust (strong). The laboratory test highlights any change to the following areas: Seam
breakdown, fused components, change to colour appearnace, optical brightner and fabric
handle, effects on accessories, colour fastness, pleat sharpness and any wadding. The
wash is carried out at 10 degrees higher than the recommended label wash tempreture.
The laboratory also need a garment reference- for the pre-wash inspection and then the
after wash inspection. 3 garments minimum requirement.
Importance
To ensure all our methods, fabric and trim accessories are suitable to the style and will
perform over numerous times of wear. To prevent customer returns and customer
dissatisfaction.

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3.10Cutting Department
3.10.1 Laying & Cutting area

 Rolls segregated & lay as per shrinkage option or shade band separation in case of
wash & non wash program respectively.
 Relaxation of Fabric for Stretch & Knit at least for 12 Hours and fabric relaxation
report maintained.

3.10.2 Markers Check

1. Marker Way
2. All parts – All parts are there in the marker.
3. Ratio – Size ratios as written on the marker.
4. Shrinkage – whether made as per shrinkage option mentioned.
5. Skip – whether any cut line is skipped.
6. Overlap – check for any part overlapped.
7. Grain line – all parts in grain line as per required.
8. Marker length – as per mentioned.

3.10.3 Prior to Spreading

1. Fabric Quality report.

2. Shrinkage report.
3. Rolls width to be laid.
4. Rolls shrinkage to be laid.
5. Rolls shade to be laid.

3.10.4 Spreading

1. Table marks – check for the table marks as per the lay length.
2. Bowing – check for bowing in the fabric
3. Narrow goods – check for any narrow goods.
4. Mis-alignment of plies – plies alignment at both ends.
5. Leaning – check at the edges for leaning
6. Ply Tension – check for ply tension
7. Count – whether plies are counted correctly.
8. Nap direction – whether required nap direction is followed.
9. End loss – check for end losses.

While spreading all the defects identified in the fabric inspection stage should be marked
using a contrast color waste fabric stripe. (Annexure 5)

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3.10.5 after cutting

1. Grain direction
2. Notches
3. Ragged cut
4. Selvedge
5. Bowing

Ticketing (numbering) should be done on the same cutting table.

The cut panel having contrast colour stripe should be inspected before ticketing for the
defects.

3.10.6 Fusing Procedures

Fusing has to be carried out as per the conditions specified by the interlining supplier,
every four hours one sample of the fused component has to sent for washing and peel
bond strength testing and also the testing of the temp, pressure and time has to be carried
out. In case of failure on any of these all the bundles fused in last 4 hours on that machine
has to be recalled and refused. During fusing the fusing operator has to follow work
instructions as mentioned in the work instructions sheet for fusing (Annexure 6).

Fusing

Recall all bundles fused in last 4 hours

Wash testing, temperature testing,

pressure testing, time testing

Issue to sewing lines

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3.10.6.1 Testing procedures for fusing

Testing procedure for various test mentioned above are as follows
Temperature
Using three thermo-paper strips take the temperature across the width of the press or
machine belt.

Check and record the temperature with the recommended speed and fusing time.
The press will need to be adjusted if variation of more than 5°C below or 10°C above the
recommended fusing temperature is recorded.
Time
Check time with a stopwatch for the actual period for which temperature and pressure is
applied on the fused composite.
Washing
Carry out durability wash test daily on the fused components per fabric per colour.
Peel Bond Strength
Use three strips of fabric, each15x5cms, placed evenly across the belt, position the
interlining to cover the fabric with no overlap
Set the recommended fusing conditions for bulk production and allow it to cool.
Conduct peel bond strength test
Ensure an even bond and acceptable peel bond strength before production.
Fusing – all Interlining fusing has to be ready finished (block cut)
a. Woven interlining – Sewing allowance to be ¼”.
b. Non fusible woven - ----do---------
The entire interlining pattern has to be aligned with shell pattern 1/8" less all
around
For order size more than 2000 pcs for lining cutting die should be used.

3.10.7 Assorting & Bundling

The ready to feed bundle should be checked for the following defects
 Whether numbers are correct.
 Actual quantity as compared to mentioned
 Cut parts check against hard pattern.
 Shade variation in cut parts with same number.

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 Fusing defects etc.

3.11 Sewing floor

Quality control on the product, Packing & stacking should be maintained at the highest
level.
A full functional traffic light system (Annexure 7) should be maintained at all times.
Statistical process controlling ( SPC ) should be implemented for every line to minimize
rejections. No Garment should be passed with inferior quality & rectification to be made
with immediate effect & documented.

3.11.1 Traffic Light System.

This System is a very affective approach in curtailing & discontinuing defected panels &
garments with discrepancies from moving in the Line. There are three colors to identify
the progress of the operator & the quality.
Green, Amber & Red bag with the Instructions of Operation descriptions to be
audited.

* Green – If this color is flagged by the Line Q/C on top of a machine, it indicates
that the Operation is under control & of good standing & could proceed to the next
operation or machine.
* Amber - If this color is flagged, it high lights that the Operation produced by the
Operator is in a tolerance margin & needs close observation from Superiors.
* Red – If the Line Q/C has flagged this color on top of a machine, you should
halt the machine & the operation immediately & rectify same without any delay & ensure
the productivity is not affected. In the same time the Line Q/C must record Instruction
paper what is in color bag & her operation file to follow up & same Q/C will issue a Pink
token to the Supervisor to rectify same & to follow up in three consecutive instance’s in
the same Operation (To Ensure 0 defects are maintained in a particular Operation) &
cross check with the Q/A.

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•The roaming Q/C must continue for each & every machine Incorporating the same
process in the Line (Not more than 32 machines per line), Minimum four times a day.

 Each Line Q/A dept should have two “In process Audit stations” for 100% components
check with the defect statistics (In line Inspection report Annexure 8) maintained
which could be analyzed hourly on each Operation to rectify prior to an Assembling
Garments.
•Each end Line should have a QA Audit station performing 100% Inspection of Garments
prior to moving to the next Process & the Defects to be maintained in the “Defect
Analysis Report” (Annexure 9).
No inline & end line checkers should have trimmers.

3.11.2 AQL Audit.

Apart from the 100% Inspection at End Line, the Q/A Dept should Audit the Merchandise
randomly to ensure the Quality standard set by “MGEL”. Each Auditor should cover 5
Production lines & every hour as per the given AQL (Annexure 10). If the Standard is
acceptable as per the below stipulated table, The Goods can be processed for the next
Operation. However if the Merchandise is not up to the required Criteria, Total Qty
should be returned back to the Production Line for immediate rectification & the same
Auditor should closely Monitor until the rectification is complete. You have to strictly
adhere to maintain an AQL level of 1.5 during Inline Inspections.

3.11.3 Random Measurement Audit.

The QA dept should inspect measurements of Garments randomly covering all styles,
Color & Sizes to ensure the Merchandise is meeting the required Specification before &
after wash. (Annexure11)

3.11.4 Finishing AQL Audit

The QA dept should inspect packed pieces before it is packed into the cartons on the AQL
basis. (Annexure 12)

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3.11.5 Pre Final Audit

Prior to handing over merchandise for final Audit to Buyers, the Q/C department should
do an interim Inspection & submit copies of the reports to the G/M Production &
marketing, Production Manager & the relevant Merchandiser for each P/O. This is
Mandatory. A count & accuracy report should be submitted as well. ( Annexure 13)

3.11.6 Outgoing Quality Level

All the external audit reports should be compiled into one final report with the defect
penalty points will expressed as percentage of total defectives found over the total
quantity shipped out for that month. Also a report of total external audits failed over total
external audits faced in that month should also be prepared.(Annexure 14)

3.11.7 Reports
All inspection in Production & finishing should be daily documented by using Inline
reports & a copy of these reports should be submitted to the relevant Merchandiser at
least twice a week without fail.

3.11.8 Samples
The QA Department should submit the following samples, T.O.P – Within 3 days of bulk
input as per buyers required size & Shipment samples as per buyers requirement, one day
before final audit. This should be strictly adhered to.
i) It is mandatory that all Line Quality Supervisors & controllers should patrol their
respective lines on a daily basis
prior to starting bulk production in the morning to ensure that the Line is geared to
Produce high quality Apparels.

* The following aspects should be taken in to awareness,

a) Cleanliness of the Floor – No Garments, Dust, Stickers, Stains etc to be on floor.

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b) Cleanliness of Machines –
1) Well cleaned without any dust.

2) Oil level & Stains on M/C to be checked.

3) Needles to be checked & should be fluff free & not blunt.
4) Any M/C with “Red” flags on & if, Mechanic to be questioned.

c) Check for Reject Garments – No Reject garment is to be brought forward from the
previous day without been rectified. All Reject Garments should be rectified on the same
day & not kept separately inside the line.

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