Professional Documents
Culture Documents
S U S H I L C H AU D H U RY
MANOHAR
2020
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Contents
List of Illustrations 7
List of Tables 8
1. Prologue 11
2. Historical Perspective 19
4. Production Organization 36
Appendices
Appendix 1: An Account of the District of Dacca, 1801
by John Taylor, Commercial Resident of
Dhaka Edited with Detailed Annotations by
Sushil Chaudhury 189
Appendix 2: Letter of a Spinner (Woman) of Santipur,
Bengal, published in the Samachar-Darpan
of the 5th January 1828 228
Appendix 3: Names/Terms used in Persian Chronicles
in Respect of Textile Production 230
Index 251
Illustrations
Prologue
spun yarn from the cotton. Later the whole family helped in weaving
the cloth. When finished, the weaver used to sell it in the local hat
or to the dalals or merchants of whom there was no dearth in the
market. In general, the practice was that the weaver would receive
some advance from the merchant-middlemen, dalals, dadni merchants
and the likes for buying the raw materials, especially cotton or thread/
yarn and for maintaining himself and his family during the period
(about six months) when he would be busy in weaving cloth. When
the demand for cloth was high, the weaver worked full-time and
found no time for cultivation. Many peasants even turned full-time
weavers to meet the demands of the market.
At this point one might ask the question: why was there such a
high demand for textiles? The answer is simple. Besides the personal
needs of the peasant-weavers, there was then a huge demand for
Bengal textiles in different parts of Asia including India as also in
Europe because of the fact that Bengal textile was not only cheap but
also of much superior quality as compared to the other textiles available
in the markets. After the discovery of direct sea-route from Europe
to Asia by Vasco de Gama in 1498, the demand for Bengal textiles
in Europe increased considerably from around the mid-seventeenth
century. Thus on the one hand the demand of the Asian merchants
and on the other that of the Europeans resulted in a huge amount
of textile exported from Bengal till the mid-eighteenth century. But
the export more or less came to an end with the British conquest of
Bengal in 1757 bringing with it whole-scale repressions by the
Company officials, its servants and the gomastas, and after the
Industrial Revolution in Britain towards the end of the century, the
Bengal textile industry started to decline.
Unfortunately, there is a dearth of books written in English dealing
exclusively with the Bengal textile industry. Those available are
concerned mostly with the muslin industry of Dhaka. For instance,
Abdul Karim’s Dhakai Muslin (1965) though a commendable work
deals mostly with the Dhaka muslin industry. However, many of his
observations are in general applicable to the Bengal industry as a
whole. However, it should be pointed out that Karim did not touch
upon some very significant aspects of the textile industry. Not only
the number of books written in English on the Bengal textile industry
P RO L O G U E 13
are very few but most of them were written more than a hundred
years back. James Taylor’s A Descriptive and Historical Account of the
Cotton Manufacture of Dacca in Bengal, published in 1851, contains
very few details of the Bengal textile industry as whole – N.N.
Banerjee’s Monograph on the Cotton Fabrics of Bengal published in
1878 can hardly be relied upon. Moreover this 62-page book is very
difficult to get hold of – only seven copies are available in the world
and none in India.
However, there is significant discussion on the Bengal textile
industry in some publications of the last century. For instance, J.C.
Sinha’s Economic Annals of Bengal (1927), H.R. Ghosal’s Economic
Transitions in the Bengal Presidency (1950), N.K. Sinha’s Economic
History of Bengal (vol. 1) (1956) are quite remarkable contributions
in this respect. Then again from around the 1970s, several treatises
on the economic history of Bengal contain very useful information
on the textile industry – K.N. Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia
(1978), Om Prakash, Dutch East India Company and the Economy of
Bengal (1985) and The European Commercial Enterprises in Pre-Colonial
India (1998), P.J. Marshall’s, Bengal: The British Bridgehead (1987)
and the Sushil Chaudhury’s Trade and Commercial Organization in
Bengal, 1650-1720 (1975) and From Prosperity to Decline: Bengal in
the Eighteenth Century (1995). But all of them deal with Bengal/
Indian textile industry only as a part of other themes. Two significant
works dealing exclusively with Bengal textile industry in the second
half of the eighteenth and early nineteenth century are D. Mitra’s The
Cotton Weavers of Bengal (1978) and Hameeda Hossain’s The Company
Weavers of Bengal (1988). But there is next to nothing in them about
the textile industry in the pre-modern era. Recently an excellent
collection of essays on various aspects of south Indian textiles has
been published (Giorgio Riello and Tirthankar Roy (eds.), How India
Clothed the World?, 2006) which will be helpful in reconstructing the
history of the Indian textile industry in some areas. Unfortunately
here too one gets only piecemeal discussions of different regions, and
not a comprehensive study of the Indian textile industry in the early
modern era as a whole.
However, so far as the regional studies on textiles in various parts
of India are concerned, there are quite a few good works till date. S.
14 SPINNING YARNS
winding and preparing the yarn, warping, applying the reed to the
warp, beaming or applying the warp to the end roll of the loom,
preparing the heddles or harness and lastly the weaving, washing, etc.
Chapter 5 is mainly concerned with a detailed discussion of the
Dhaka muslin industry. Quite a few things like the origin of the word
‘muslin’, why was the Dhaka muslin the most beautiful, where in
Dhaka was the cotton suitable for production of muslin grown, who
did spinning of yarn for muslin, which were the aurangs where the
best quality and most expensive muslin were produced, how expensive
were these muslins and finally what was the production organization
like in the royal karkhanas or musbool-khas-kothi where muslins for
the royalty and nobility were produced in Dhaka are discussed in this
chapter.
Bengal produced not only muslin or fine cloth and cheap and
coarse textiles but also silk, and mixed cotton and silk textiles in large
quantities. How and where were these textiles produced, what was
the process of silk production, how was the silk yarn and who did it,
what was the approximate cost of producing silk textiles and finally
the comparative role of the Asian and Europeans in the export of silk
textiles in Bengal are discussed in Chapter 6.
Chapter 7 is devoted to an analysis of the procurement system of
textiles adopted by European and Indian/Asian merchants. It was
because of the diffusion of textile production in Bengal (not so much
in regions), that procurement was not an easy task. However, the
Asian/Indian merchants had certain advantages over the Europeans
in procuring textiles. In most cases the Asian/Indian merchants
employed gomastas who were in general their kith and kin or people
who belonged to the same caste. These people were conversant of the
local language and as such could directly contract with the weavers
for supply of cloth. Moreover they could cover their food and lodging
with a small sum of money compared to the Europeans. But in the
case of the Europeans, the process was rather difficult. As their
employees did know the local language they had to depend on dadni
merchants, dalals or paikars for the supply of export commodities.
So they had to employ in their principal factories a local person as
the chief merchant who used to arrange for the supply of necessary
items for export through dadni merchants or dalals. Basically the
P RO L O G U E 17
Historical Perspective
to exceed ten times the price of any linens permitted to be made for
Europeans, or any other else in the kingdom’. He tried to account
for the exceptional quality of the fabrics by referring to the high skill
of the Bengali weavers and comparing it with that of their European
counterparts. He wrote:11
As much as an Indian is born deficient in mechanical strength, so much his
whole frame endowed with an exceeding degree of sensibility and pliantness.
The hand of an Indian cook-wench shall be more delicate than that of an
European beauty; the skill and features of a porter shall be softer than those
of a petit maitre.
NOTES
1. James Taylor, Cotton Manufacture, pp. 46-8; Dr. Ure, Cotton Manufacture in
Britain, p. 54; Syed Murtaza Ali, ‘Dacca Muslin’, in Journal of the Asiatic
Society of Bengal, vol. XIII, no. 2, 1968, p. 203.
2. J.C. Sinha, ‘Dacca Muslin Industry’, in Modern Review, April 1925, p. 400.
3. Elliot & Dowson, History of India, vol. 1, p. 5; Abdul Karim, Dhakai Muslin,
pp. 48-52.
4. Ibn Batuta, The Voyages of. . ., vol. 4, p. 122.
H I S TO R I C A L P E R S P E C T I V E 23
Bengal’s Advantages
over other Regions of India
(40 co × 3 co) was Rs. 9.5 but if its size was 40 co × 2.5 co, the price
came down to Rs. 7.
The entire district of Dhaka was known for the production of
muslins which were the finest variety of Bengal textiles but the best
types of muslins were manufactured only in three aurungs namely
Junglebari, Bazetpur and Sonargaon. The finest and the most expensive
plain muslins called mulboos khas (royal clothing) were produced
exclusively in aurungs during the period. But here again there was
difference in the quality of the produce of these aurungs which only
brings out the degree of specialization in the various production
centres. While the weavers of Junglebari and Bazetpur excelled in
muslins of a close texture, those of Sonarpur specialized in making
thin and clear muslins.20 It is noted here that not only in weaving
but also in spinning, washing, etc., that specialization was a typical
feature of Bengal textile industry. The best thread was spun at
Junglebari and Bazetpur, ‘the fabrics of which arangs from the great
skill with which the cotton was spun, possess a peculiar softness’.21
As the Danish report informs us, there were certain washermen in
all weaving districts whose washing can be imitated nowhere’.22 Again
John Taylor noted that the art of making jamdanies of embroidered
cloth in the loom was the monopoly of the weavers of the Dhaka
aurung. These weavers who specialized in manufacturing jamdanies
were called ‘jamdani weavers’.23 Similarly, jamawars, an expensive
variety of silk-piece goods, were manufactured by weavers who
specialized in that particular kind of work.24
The question that crops up here is whether the theoretical concept
of ‘important economics of concentration’25 was somewhat blurred
by the distinctive features of the Bengal textile industry. The assumption
that production for local consumption and local market should be
distinguished from production for export and inter-regional trade
can hardly applied to the Bengal situation. There is little doubt that
the main consideration of manufacturing cloth for local consumption
was the availability of cotton or yarn while the consideration of
distance, both between manufacturing and consuming areas, and
between production centres and the point of final shipment, naturally
comes in as the cost of transport is vital for the profitability of the
enterprise. Besides, the merchants or the middlemen had to organize
32 SPINNING YARNS
NOTES
1. Robert Orme, Historical Fragments, p. 414.
2. For some of the observations, see, S. Chaudhury, Trade and Commercial
Organiztion, 1650-1720, pp. 4-5, 241-6.
3. Orme, Historical Fragments, p. 400.
4. Ole Feldbaeck, ‘Cloth Production in Bengal’, BPP, p. 128.
5. Orme, Historical Fragments, pp. 409-10.
6. Feldbaeck, ‘Cloth Production in Bengal’, p. 126.
7. Report of Henry Cansius on Malda, VOC 1278, ff. 2173-4, 7 September
1670.
8. Fact. Records, Kasimbazar, vol. 6, 16 October 1741.
9. Fact. Records, Dacca, vol. 3, 30 November 1757.
10. Orme, Historical Fragments, p. 410.
11. K.N. Chaudhuri, The Trading World of Asia, p. 249.
12. Orme, Historical Fragments, p. 413; Stavorinus, Voyages, p. 474.
13. BPC, vol. 25, f. 299, 17 November 1752.
14. Fact. Records, Kasimbazar, vol. 6, 26 May 1742.
15. Ibid., 3 April 1742.
16. C&B Abstr., vol. 3, f. 180, 25 February 1752.
17. Home Misc. vol. 456F, f. 112.
18. N.K. Sinha, Economic History of Bengal, vol. 1, p. 104.
19. Beng. Letters Recd., vol. 23, ff. 51, 60; FWIHC, vol. 1, pp. 917-18, 925.
20. Home Misc. 456F, f. 135.
21. Ibid., p. 129.
B E N G A L’ S A DVA N TA G E S 35
Production Organization
but also for the market even long before the eighteenth century. This
is borne out by the contemporary vernacular literature where there
are numerous references stating that the peasant-weavers were taking
their manufactures to the local hats for sale and that they were buying
cotton, yarn and victuals with the money they received by selling
their wares. So it can be said with little hesitation that in Bengal both
farming and weaving ran side by side and it was that if one went on,
the other could not.
Even the poor peasants who lived from hand to mouth did indeed
produce cloth for their own use. Again, it may be pointed out that
the same peasant caste carried out the functions of all the early stages
of silk production – from mulberry cultivation to the winding of
cocoons – except perhaps the finishing process which was a highly
specialized craft. Along with this small peasant-weaver family as the
basic unit of production, we come across in the sources occasional
reference to weaving shops and head weavers. The Dhaka factors
reported in 1736 about such weaving shops where spinners and men
who helped the weavers were working.5 Moreover, while writing about
the profit of the weavers in the mid-eighteenth century, John Taylor
referred to the head weaver who bought thread for weaving cloth.6
However, though the head weaver is known to have functioned in
Hughli in 1670s, he had acted as an intermediary between the weavers
and merchants, and exercised some authority over his community.
His function and precise status is not known from the sources.7 And
it appears that he was not so common a feature of the weaving village
in Bengal as he seems to have been in the Coromandel Coast.8 If he
had been, we should have noticed his presence in the sources but he
is rarely to be seen there. John Taylor, however, reported that the
production of some cloth in Dhaka was carried out by master weavers
possessing two or three looms and employing an apprentice (nikari)
and a journeyman (kareegar).9 At the same time it is interesting to
note that in the mid-eighteenth century it was common for respectable
families of the weaving community to employ their own capital in
manufacturing goods that they sold freely on their own.10 Some of
the weavers in Dhaka were even reported to have advanced money
to a ‘number of most skilled spinners’ for the supply of the finest
thread.11
38 SPINNING YARNS
PROCUREMENT SYSTEM
The dadni (advance) system was an integral part of the Bengal textile
industry. Whether Asian merchants or the European Companies,
everyone had to procure cloth through a dadan given to the merchant
middlemen, dalals, paikars and sometimes directly to the weavers.
Occasionally, the Asian merchants used to buy cloth from the open
market but in most cases they arranged for their supply by sending
their gomastas (agents) to the aurungs where they contracted with the
weavers giving them advances. They had the advantage over the
Europeans because their gomastas were mostly their kith and kin or
belonged mainly to their caste and creed, and were conversant with
the local language and market conditions so that they could buy
goods at cheaper rates than the Europeans. But the factors of the
Companies had no knowledge of the local language or the markets.
Besides they could not arrange to collect cloth like the Asians, from
remote parts of the country. The goods bought through dadni were
called patan or patni. But the good which were bought in the spot
market were called khush kharid. However, in all probability, most of
the textiles for inter-regional and long-distance trade were produced
against advances paid and contracts made under the dadni system. It
may be noted here that sometimes rich weavers used their own capital
for producing cloth – something which will be apparent from a
contemporary observer,12 quoted below, though this was perhaps an
exception rather than the rule.
It was common practice for respectable families of the weaver caste to employ
their own capital in manufacturing goods, which they sold freely on their
own accounts. At Dacca in one morning 800 pieces of muslin brought by
the weavers of their own accord have been purchased at the door of one
gentleman.
The basic raison d’être of the dadni system has been explained in
various ways by the historians.13 The common argument with varying
degrees of emphasis is that it was necessitated by three important
considerations. First, the weavers’ need for finance; the dadni provided
him with the cash to buy the raw materials for manufacturing cloth
and to sustain himself and his family for the period, extending
sometime to six months that took him to finish his work. Second, it
P RO D U C T I O N O RG A N I Z AT I O N 39
gave him the necessary security for the purchase of the goods ordered.
Third, while on the one hand it played an important role in securing
large enough quantity for the merchants who advanced dadney, on
the other it was also a way of binding up the producers in the face
of competition from other buyers in the market of whom there was
no dearth in the seventeenth and the first half of the eighteenth
century. Though a traditional system, it seems that the dadni system
was quite extended during the period under review to meet the
requirements of ‘an expanded and expanding market’. But the
suggestion that ‘the need to operate through the system of contracts
increased considerably’ with the European demands for specific size,
quality, design, etc., can hardly be taken for granted.14 For long Bengal
had been supplying her traditional markets in different parts of India,
South-East Asia, West and Central Asia, the Persian Gulf and the
Red Sea areas and North Africa with varying degrees of standard, size
and quality, and hence standardization was not something absolutely
new, nor was the volume of this traditional trade in any way less than
that of the European trade during the period under review.
In this context it should be noted that the dadni or advance system
was somewhat different from the verlagg system of the sixteenth and
seventeenth-century Europe. In the putting-out system of Europe
most of the artisans were supplied with necessary raw materials and
cash payment was made out to them with only an advance against
their wages. But in the dadni system in Bengal, the weavers were
almost in all cases given cash advance only; advance in raw material
is extremely rare to come by. Even in the royal karkhanas, as we have
seen earlier, the weavers bought and brought their own yarn for weav
ing. But more importantly, while in Europe at all stages of product
ion the output belonged to the merchant-financier, in Bengal the
producer appears to have retained considerable independence – he
had control over his produce until it changed hands and was still the
owner of the means of production, though his freedom to fix the
price of his goods was not unrestricted. The merchant-middlemen
who paid the advance to the weavers had the first claim on the goods
and it might be that the debt obligation often exposed the weaver to
coercive control of the merchant-financier. But what is extremely
significant is that the weaver/artisan was still, in Max Weber’s
40 SPINNING YARNS
PROCESS OF WEAVING
bairati. The quality of phooti was much better than that of bairati.
The best quality muslin was produced with phooti cotton. Of course,
muslin was also produced by using bairati cotton. Its quality was
much inferior to that made with phooti. The phooti cotton was
produced only in a small area in the west bank of the river Meghna.
The details of this will be discussed in the chapter dealing with muslin
production in Dhaka. Here it may only be mentioned that John
Taylor specifically noted that the phooti cotton produced in that small
area was of the best quality in the whole of the world.22
Cotton plants are generally 3 to 4 ft high and cotton grows twice
a year – in the spring and the autumn. As spring cotton was much
better than the other varieties, it was cultivated in most of the lands.
After the harvest of cotton, rice was grown in these lands. Cotton
was grown in a land for two-three years and then kept fallow for a
year so that its fertility was kept intact. The best growers of cotton
were the Baruis or cultivators of betel leaf.23 The seeds of cotton were
to be preserved very carefully against damp weather. About 2 seers of
seeds are required to sow a land measuring one bigha (around half
an acre?) and one bigha used to produce around 6 maunds of cotton.
In every seer of raw cotton, there would be about three-fourths of
seeds and only one-fourth cotton. About a third of the cotton, that
part adheres most to seeds, is capable of being spun into the finest
thread which was absolutely necessary for making the best muslins.
The rest of the cotton was used for making inferior quality muslins
or other ordinary cotton piece-goods. However, though most of the
cotton required for making cloth was produced in Bengal, some
cotton had to be imported from Surat and it was called Sironj cotton.
This cotton was mostly used for making coarse cloth. Besides a small
amount of cotton came from Assam, Tripura, Chittagong Hill Tracts
and Arakan. Needless to say, this cotton was used for making cheap
and coarse textiles. The said cotton was called bhoga cotton.
SPINNING
The cultivation of cotton and the spinning was like a part-time activity
of a peasant-weaver family. They did it like their daily chores in their
leisure hours or taking time off from their other works. But when
P RO D U C T I O N O RG A N I Z AT I O N 43
there was a high demand for Bengal textiles, then the peasant-
cultivator had to devote most of his time in cotton cultivation. But
as mentioned earlier, the peasant could turn to paddy or other
cultivation after harvesting the cotton crop. Spinning, however, was
the exclusive domain of the womenfolk in the peasant-weaver family.
They did the work in their leisure hours or taking time off their daily
chores. This spinning was a part-time as well as a cottage industry.
Generally, these women in the peasant-weaver family did spin from
cotton all the thread needed for weaving cloth in the house. However,
sometimes it was seen that the weavers were buying thread in the
local hat but that might be due to the high demand for cloth for
which the home-spun yarn was not enough and hence had to fall
back on the local supply.
It should be mentioned here that though weaving was a caste-based
hereditary occupation in Bengal, there was no caste bias so far as
spinning was concerned and even women of high caste including
Brahmins, Vaidyas, and Kayasthas spun yarn as did the women of
weaving castes like the Jugi, Tanti, Juluha, etc. Thread for coarse
varieties was spun by a wheel and for fine varieties by a spindle. Thread
was made in all aurungs of Dhaka district but the greatest quantity,
and with a few exceptions, the best, was spun in Jungleburry and
Bazetpur, the cloth of which aurungs, from the greater skill, with
which the thread was prepared, possess a peculiar softness. However,
the number of such skilled spinners was not very many. John Taylor
noted that their number in Dhaka around 1800 was only thirty.24
Preparing thread from cotton and then spinning was a very difficult
and complicated task which needed a host of people. For the details
of the process of preparing the thread before spinning, it will be
appropriate to quote here from a near-contemporaneous author, James
Taylor (1851), who was a commercial resident of Dhaka in the mid-
eighteenth century.25
The cotton in the state of kapas is first cleaned and prepared by the women
who spin the yarn. Fragment of leaves, stalks and capsules of the plant are
carefully picked out with the fingers, and the wool adhering to the seeds is
then carded with the jaw-bone of the boalee fish, the teeth of which, being
small, recurved and closely set, act as a fine comb in removing loose and
coarser fibres of the cotton, and all extraneous matter. . . . [The spinner
44 SPINNING YARNS
then] sits down to the laborious task of cleaning with this instrument each
separate seed of cotton. Having accomplished this, she proceeds to detach
the fibres from the seeds. This is done by placing a small quantity of the
combed cotton upon a smooth flat board, made of wood of the chalta tree,
and then rolling an iron pin backwards and forwards upon it with the hands,
in such a manner as to separate the fibres without crushing the seeds. The
cotton is next teased with a small handbow, formed of a piece of bamboo
with two elastic slips of the same material inserted into it, and strung with
a cord made of catgut, muga silk or plantain fibres, twisted together. The
bamboo slips are movable within the centre piece, and in proportion to the
extent they are drawn out, or pushed back, the tension of the cord is increased
or diminished. The cotton having been reduced by the operation of bowing
to a state of light downy fleece, is spread out and lapped round a thick
wooden roller; and, on the removal of the latter instrument, it is pressed
between two flat boards. It is next rolled round a piece of lacquered reed of
the size of a quill; and, lastly, is enveloped in the smooth and soft skin of
the cuchia fish, which serves as a cover to preserve it from dust and from
being soiled, whilst it is held in the hand, during the process of spinning.
Four things were needed for making thread from cotton. These
were a spindle (taku), one bamboo basket, a piece of shell embedded
in clay and a little hollow stone containing chalk-powder. The spindle
is about 10 to 14 inches in length, and is not much thicker than a
stout needle. Attached to the spindle, near its lower point, is a small
ball of dry clay, to give it sufficient weight in turning. The basket is
used to keep the cotton. The third one, the shell, is for keeping the
lower portion of the spindle so that it does not get stuck in the soil
and can turn easily. The hollow stone with chalk-powder is required
so that the spinner could dip her finger so that they are dry at all
times. The spinner holds the spindle in an inclined position, with its
point resting in the hollow of the piece of the shell, and turns it
between the thumb and forefinger of one hand, while she, at the same
time, draws out the single filaments from the roll of cotton held in
the other hand, and twists them into yarn upon the spindle. When
a certain quantity of the yarn has been spun and collected on this
instrument it is wound from it upon a reed.26
The thread could be spun only at a certain point of the day – either
early morning or late afternoon. A little bit of moisture in the
atmosphere is needed while spinning is done. So the spinners used
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what I then advanced in words and acts that have branded his nation
with the stigma of infamy.
But the well-meaning pacifists of all shades and degrees, from
the wordy interpreters of Prussian philosophies in high places down
to the credulous man in the street, who pinned his faith to the
business instincts of our German customers, clung tenaciously to
their comfortable faith. At last, five months ago, I uttered a further
warning: