Manual method:

• Manual method can be done by two ways:

– Marker planning with full size pattern,
– Marker with minimized pattern.
1.Marker planning with full size pattern: According to the standard measurement, all
the patterns are in full dimension here. At first, all the hard patterns are placed on the paper and then those patterns are
marked by turning various directions to reduce the fabric usages. Here the tables, on which the markers are placed,
arranged in the way so that they do not tilt. Vacuum system is arranged here under the table for suction. This method is
suitable for reducing the marker length

2.Marker with minimized pattern: Here, full sized patterns are reduced 1/5 part by a pantograph and
the patterns are made by hard paper or plastic sheet. Marker is planned here with the small pattern pieces
and after making, snaps are taken by using camera. Planimeter is used here to measure covered area of
pattern lies in the marker. In case of this method, marker efficiency is determined by calculating marker
area
and fabric area.
Computerized method:
• Computerized method can be performed by two ways:
– Automatic marker making,
– Interactive method.

• Automatic marker making: It is the most efficient marker making system. Here, the computer makes the
marker itself according the command given to computer. Small pattern pieces are displayed in computer screen but
full size in computer memory. Though it is time consuming method but modern automatic marker making system
overcome that problem of time and needs only two minutes to make a marker.

• Interactive method: Interactive marker making method is a common process where

the operator plans markers by connecting directly with the system through a computer screen. Here, all the pattern
pieces are displayed at the top of the screen in the miniature form. Those are dragged and draped to the pre-determined
place by data pen or tablet. It is less efficient and less time required than automatic marker making system.
What is marker efficiency?
• Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used in a garment
and area of total marker.

Secondly, Glock and Kunz have defined this term in their book, Apparel
Manufacturing as Marker efficiency is determined from fabric utilization,
the percentage of total fabric that is actually used in garment parts.

Note: Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not same thing. In marker
efficiency calculation fabric wastage due to end bits and end loss is not
included but in fabric utilization calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are
included.
How To Calculate Marker Efficiency?
• Calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below with
formula.
– Formula#1
Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area of total marker) * 100

Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD marker, CAD system automatically
calculates total area of garment pattern pieces placed in a marker. So you get area of
marker that is consumed by garments from CAD system.
Total Marker Area: To calculate total marker area simply multiply marker length by marker width.
In manual marker it is difficult to measure surface area of garments patterns in a marker. You
can use a mechanical device, Planimeter, to calculate the surface area of pattern pieces
from outlines of the pattern pieces.
Another method can be practiced to calculate marker efficiency when you don’t have
CAD
system or Planimeter. Calculate ratio of weight of fabric consumed by pattern pieces and
total weight fabric under total marker area. So a separate formula is used to find marker efficiency
How To Calculate Marker Efficiency?
• Calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below
with formula
– Formula#2

Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric consumed by patterns pieces

in a
marker / Total weight of fabric of under the marker area)*100

Weight of garment parts: To calculate weight of garment parts cut one

layer of fabric according to markers and weigh all garment parts that are
included in a marker.

Weight of marker total area: Measure weight of fabric (one layer) of total
marker area.
 Factors Related To Marker Efficiency:
• The following factors are related to marker efficiency
– Marker Planner: Marker efficiency depends on the experience, honesty, sincerity
& technological knowledge of the planner. The more the number of markers
practiced for a particular style, the more is the possibility to get higher efficiency.
– Size of Garments: The more the number of pattern sizes are included, the more
possibility to get more efficiency, but excessive number of pattern sizes, may cause
problem.
– Marker Length: Higher the marker length, higher will be the efficiency, but
excessive marker length may cause a problem.
– Pattern Engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased by changing the pattern
design (Suppose, a big component can be divided into two parts), but should be
very careful about the final appearance.
 Factors Related To Marker Efficiency:
• Fabric Characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those which are similar to all directions.
Marker efficiency is good in those types of fabrics. However, marker efficiency will be less
for asymmetrical fabrics. Especially in case of stripe & check fabrics, the tendency of lower
marker efficiency is higher.
– Symmetric fabric = Marker Efficiency (Higher).
– Asymmetric fabric = Marker Efficiency (Lower).
– In case of check & Stripe fabric == Marker Efficiency (Lower).

• Marker Making Method : Marker can be made by two methods. One is manual & other
computerized. Computerized marker is more efficient when it is done interactively with the
planner. So marker efficiency varies from method to method. Sometimes a skilled operator can
make more efficient marker than computer.

• Marker Width : Marker width normally depends on the fabric width. The more the fabric
width, this is easier to plan or make marker by the marker maker which will increase the
efficiency. This may not be applicable for tubular fabric.
• Style of Garments : There are some garments which have only large patterns such as overcoat. If
there is less number of small components, the marker will be less efficient. Because after placing
large patterns, no small patter to place in the gaps. So the gaps remain unused and hence fabric
wastage occurs.
 Key Points of Marker Making:

• Various key points which should be considered before marker making are
pointed out in the below:
• During marker making it should be followed that fabric width must be
higher than marker width (At least ½ inch).
• Fabric length must be higher than marker length (At least one inch).
• Marker width should be taken according to the fabric width and fabric
spreading must be done by taking the guideline from the marker length.
• During marker making, length of fabric cutting table should be
considered.
 • Key Points of Marker Making:
• When garments pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, in that
• time the grain line must be parallel to the line of warp in a woven fabric and
• Wales in knitted fabric. It should be noted here that, when pattern pieces are
• laid down across the layers, then the line is kept parallel to the weft for woven
fabric and course in knit fabric.
• All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid
down on an asymmetric fabric.
• Plan for garments production should also be considered during marker
• making.
• During marker making, marker should be started with the large pattern pieces.
• Then fits the smaller pieces in the gap of larger pieces. In this way, fabric
wastage is minimized and marker efficiency is also increased.
• In the last step of marker making, all the patterns are shuffled in various
• directions to reduce the marker length. It also helps to increase the marker
efficiency.