Professional Documents
Culture Documents
N°21 - €2
inyourpocket.com
Contents 3
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
The Basics
Facts, habits, attitudes 6
History
A few thousand years in two pages 10
Districts of Athens
Be seen in the right places 12
Budget Athens
What crisis? 14
Gay Athens 34
Sightseeing
Monuments and Archaeological Sites 36
Acropolis Museum 40
Museums 42
Historic Buildings 46
Getting Around
Airplanes, boats and trains 49
Shopping 53
Directory 56
Olympic Games
After being refused the centenary modern Olympics of 1996, Famous Greeks
Athens was finally awarded the Games of 2004. Against all
odds, and the international media who worked overtime for
their respective governments, each outbidding the next in
their efforts to sell overpriced and useless security systems,
the city organised a wonderful and absolutely safe Olympiad
that filled all Greeks with a sense of national solidarity and
pride - and rightly so. This was, surely enough, before they
were presented with the eight billion Euro bill, whereupon
everyone came to the conclusion that the Olympics are no
business for a small country like this one...
Psirri
D4 Bordered by Athinas, Ermou, Pireos, Evripidou
Streets. MMonastiraki, Thissio.
This neighbourhood of narrow streets, workshops, ware-
houses and wholesale shops of every kind, established
itself as the ‘Soho’ of Athens about fifteen years ago.
(Since then, this title has been variously attributed to each
new nightlife hub that springs up in previously deprived
areas). Countless bars, clubs, theatres, restaurants and
cafés catered for mixed crowds but the area has been in
a steady decline as a nightlife destination, as the masses
started to move elsewhere. The food is generally average,
with some exceptions. Restaurants with live Greek music
A view from the Acropolis AIYP often charge higher prices than the quality of their food
justifies, but if you want to experience dancing and singing
Thissio the Greek way, do enter any of them on a Saturday evening,
B5,C5,C6 Bordered by Ermou Street, Philopappou Hill, or a Sunday afternoon.
Ancient Agora, MThissio.
One of the oldest districts of Athens. The Acropolis towering Omonia Square
above and its many neoclassical buildings preserve the aura and the area west of Athinas & September 3rd
of a bygone era. Walk around the Ancient Agora and Philopap- Streets. D2,D3,E2,E3 MOmonia.
pou hill, soak up the atmosphere of the cradle of western This central square is the Balkan face of Athens. Buzzing
civilisation, imagine Socrates conversing with his disciples on and ugly, gritty and colourful, its working class crowds
these very same grounds and attune yourself to the rhythm mingle with immigrants, street traders, lottery ticket sellers
of life of modern city-dwellers sipping their indispensable and, occasionally, weird and suspicious figures. If you head
‘frappé’ (iced coffee the Greek way) at one of the countless towards the back streets to the west of the square you’ll
outdoor cafés directly facing the Sacred Rock. find yourself in the Athenian version of a China town, where
other predominant nationalities are Pakistanis and Africans.
Makrigianni A few surviving neoclassical buildings come as a welcome
contrast to the concrete of the square, the looks of which
E7,E8 Bordered by the Acropolis, Philopappou hill, most Athenians hated as soon as it was reconstructed a
Syngrou Ave. MAcropolis.A district overwhelmed by six- few years ago.
ties blocks of flats (like most of Athens of course) with some
forgotten neoclassical treasures amongst them, Makrigianni
hasn’t so far had very much to offer the visitor except its
proximity to the ancient monuments and some tourist shops
and restaurants. That was true until the New Acropolis Mu-
seum, the pride and joy of the capital, finally opened its doors
last year transforming the district into one of the foremost
attractions for visitors and Athenians alike
Metaxourgio
B3,C3 Bordered by Pireos, Iera Odos, Achilleos Streets.
MKerameikos.
This is the latest up and coming area of the capital, with
a new bar, restaurant or art venue appearing every few
days. Like many other European cities, Athens is gradu-
ally rediscovering its neglected and forsaken districts of
ill repute and transforming them into night-time hot spots.
The shoddy brothels still operate here around the clock,
but, at night, the fashionable crowds of the capital reclaim
the neighbourhood.
Koulouri AIYP
Learn Greek
Athens for free You can follow a language course complete with audio files
Accomodation exercises etc at: www.ellinika.org and www.xanthi.ilsp.
There are hundreds of Athenians happy to offer you their gr/filog. The lessons start at beginner level.
couch on www.couchserfing.com and www.hospi-
talityclub.org All you have to do is register, contact the
person whose profile you find most interesting and book Athens for little
your tickets. Food
Museums Souvlaki-gyros and its variations, apart from obligatory
Admission in all the state run museums and archaeological while you’re in Athens, is a nutritious and balanced meal and
sites is free every Sunday between November and the first probably the easiest thing to find during your wanders in the
Sunday of April. Admission is free every day in the War streets of the capital. For the places we recomend see page
Museum, the Postal and Philatelic Museum, the Rail 41. Koulouri is a simple bread & sesame snack that you’ll
Museum, the museum of Traditional Musical Instru- find sold in every street of Athens for €0.50-0.60. It makes
ments and the Epigraphical Museum. a perfect breakfast that will keep you going till lunch and it
Going out and entertainment is best enjoyed fresh early in the morning.
In www.forfree.gr and www.tzaba.gr you’ll find every free Drink
event that takes place during the week in the city, and ideas Street kiosks (periptera) sell beer for about €1 per can.
on how to do things without spending a penny. The web sites Alternatively supermarkets (open till 21:00 weekdays,
are in Greek only but http://babelfish.yahoo.com produces 20:00 Saturdays) sell spirits for €10-13 per bottle, good
very good translations for both. Greek wines start from as little as €5 and beer comes even
Internet cheaper from €0.40.
A large part of the centre of Athens is covered by a public Shop
wifi network free for all to access. Areas around Syntagma American markets (pg.70) are very popular among young-
Square, Thissio metro station and Kotzia Square are sters, students and those who prefer individuality to mass
all covered and during the winter of course you won’t see production clothes. Chinese shops: It is most probable
many people sitting on the benches with their laptops so that your clothes are made in China anyway, but if you opt
access is faster. to cut the middleman (the western brand label that is) and
Phonecalls buy directly, there are dozens of Chinese shops around
If you feel like a long chat with your granny down-under the Koumoundourou Sq, (map C4) where you can pick jeans
free phone service offered in ‘The Mall’ shopping centre is straight from the cardboard box for a tenner.
probably worth the 30 minutes metro ride to Nerantziotisa Students
station (old metro line). A telecoms company offers free The international student card ISIC can get you into most mu-
promotional VoIP calls to most countries of the world. seums with a discount up to 50% (sometimes even for free).
Find the red phone boxes near the entrance of the shopping Many businesses too offer discounts to card holders.
centre but avoid Saturdays.
History
In Greek mythology Delphi The best way to get to Delphi is by car. Take the national
was the place where two motorway to Lamia and at the Kastro junction (110 km)
eagles released by Zeus to turn left to Orchomenos and Levadia and follow the road
fly across the universe met signs to Delphi. In the village you will find numerous cafes
and determined the Navel of and restaurants catering to the hundreds of day visitors.
the World. A major temple Alternatively you can head for Amfissa, a tranquil little
dedicated to Apollo and town with a small archaeological museum, or Itea a lovely
his victory over the terrible seaside village where you can enjoy fresh fish and seafood
serpent Python was built in one of its many tavernas by the sea. If you have time on
there in 7th century BC. The your way back stop at nearby Arachova, a base for the
local oracle was a religious skiers visiting Parnassos slopes (see opposite page). The
centre where pilgrims, com- picturesque town is riddled with flashy clothes shops, trendy
moners and kings alike from bars, tavernas and during weekends, traffic similar to that
all over Greece came to of the centre of Athens.
consult Pythia on important If you’re not up for driving, there is a regular intercity bus
or everyday matters, like service from Athens KTEL station. Finally you can opt for an
whether to go to war with a organised tour. See our travel agents listing (pg 58)
rival city, or about family and
personal affairs. Pythia the Info
priestess of the sanctuary
mumbled her infamously KTEL Bus Station: Liosion 260. tel. +30 210 8317096
ambiguous oracles in a From Athens: 07:30, 10:30, 13:00, From Delphi: 16:00,
state of intoxication and 18:00 and on Sundays 21:00. Tickets cost €13.60
the other priests translated one way.
The Charioteer them in a way that could Museum and Site: tel. +30 22650 82346, +30 22650
accommodate opposite 82313 Open: daily 08:30-15:00, Good Friday 08:30-
interpretations. One of the most famous oracles was given 12:00, closed on public holidays (see our Basics pages).
to Croesus when he asked if he should go to war with the Separate tickets for the museum and the archaeological
Persians. The answer was “if you go to war you will destroy site cost €6 each (concessions €3). A combined ticket
a great empire”. The oracle turn out to be right, except it was will get you into both for €9 (concessions €5)
his own empire that he destroyed.
Karpenisi (1840m)
Karpenisi ski centre is 284km away from Athens and
11km away from the town of Karpenisi. It is a small centre
but popular nonetheless as visitors can combine sports
with visits to the beautiful mountain villages of the region
that resembles the Alps. There are 6 lifts in total and 11
slopes. There is a ski school, equipment rental shop,
restaurant, cafe and a chalet with an accommodation
capacity of 100 persons (tel.2237-22002). If you drive,
take the national motorway to Thessaloniki and turn to
Karpenisi, or take the KTEL bus to Karpenisi from Athens
central station (tel. 210 - 8315919) Daily pass €20 (w/e),
€12 (weekdays), Seasonal card €180 tel. (+30) 22370
Obviously one cannot claim that Greece is the ultimate 23 506, www.cybex.gr/karpenissi
European ski destination. It is a fact though that its versatile
landscape with high mountains (there are more than 50
peaks in Greece with an altitude higher than 2000 m) actually
allows for a fair share of winter fun mainly between January Pilio (1470m)
and March.
There are 21 ski resorts in the country, and more than half Pilio is one of the most beautiful Greek mountains, home
offer decent standards even for the most demanding and to the mythical creature Kentavros and it is worth visiting
experienced skier. for a weekend even if you are not a skier. It boasts dozens
Most of them are naturally located in northern Greece but there of picturesque villages - most of which have stunning
are a few very easily accessible from Athens ideal for a skiing views of the Aegean Sea, the Pagasetic Gulf and the
weekend or even just for a day’s escape from the city. seaside town of Volos at the foot of the mountain, and
offer plenty of good accommodation and nightlife. The
centre is 27 km from Volos and 330 km from Athens
Parnassos (1600 - 2250m) (take the national motorway to Thessaloniki if you drive,
or KTEL bus to Volos from Athens central station every
two hours .Tel. (+30) 210 8329585). There are six slopes
ranging between 250m for beginners to 5000m with a
total length of 12 km and six lifts. A number of winter
sports are also available like snowboarding and cross
country skiing. A restaurant, a cafe and a skiing school
operate at the centre as well as a chalet for those who
prefer accommodation on the spot. A day pass costs
€15, (children €10) and the cost for renting the equip-
ment is €15 for a full set. Lessons cost €40 per hour
per person and €25 per hour for two. tel. (+30) 2428
074048 www.skipilio.gr
Kalavrita (1700m)
This is the largest, most organised and popular ski resort
in the country. There are 2 main locations Fterolaka
and Kellaria and a total of 20 slopes and 14 lifts. The
distance from the capital is only 180 km making it a
popular day destination for Athenian skiers. Slopes range
from easy-beginner level to difficult for experienced ski-
ers and cross country, with lengths between 50m and
4 km. There are cafes, a restaurant, ski and snowboard
schools, an equipment rental shop and baby sitting
facilities. The most convenient way to get to Parnassos
is by car. Drive to Levadia and follow the signs to Ara-
chova and then the ski centre. The best place to look
for accommodation is Arachova, a picturesque little town
that comes alive in the winter with skiers and celebrity
‘exiles’ from the island of Mykonos. Excellent night life,
restaurants, shops and plenty of traditional hotels make This is the only ski resort in the Peloponese, a trendy
Arachova a good weekend destination even if you don’t winter weekend destination for young Athenians. It is
ski. If you opt to use public transportation take the located on Mt Helmos 14 km from the pretty and historic
KTEL (intercity) bus from Athens central station (every town of Kalavrita and 203 km from Athens. Apart from
2 hours tel.210 8317096). Day passes for the slopes the 12 slopes of all levels and the seven lifts, the centre
cost between €10 - €30 depending on the day of the offers a complete set of winter activities like snowboard-
week and whether all lifts and slopes are operational. ing, trecking, snowmobiles, paragliding, etc Prices for a
tel.(+30)2234022693, (+30) 22340-22373, www. day pass vary between €15 - €25 and there are weekly
parnassos-ski.gr (€70) and seasonal (€350) passes available. tel.(+30)
2692024451, www.kalavrita-ski.com
Budget long enough you’ll get to meet people from all around the
world. You can always chill out for free on the settees if you
Centrotel Peoniou 11A, MVictoria, tel. (+30) 210 arrive in the middle of the night and your booking is for the
8258010, info@centrotel.gr, www.centrotel.gr. If you’re next morning. A heavy duty oven with all necessary food
not desperate to stay on the ‘shiny’ part of the city (and preparation accessories awaits the cooking types. If it’s
pay accordingly), this is one of the best value for money luxury you’re after, look elsewhere. What you’ll get here is a
budget hotels in Athens, located within walking distance clean room for a good night’s sleep and great opportunities to
from the Archaeological Museum and Victoria Metro Sta- meet free style travelers like yourself. Look out on the notice
tion. Constructed in 2005, it is a super-clean and modern board for announcements like, “Fabian, call your mother”
hotel with a helpful and professional staff that would be and prepare for cool parties on the ground floor. Q Dorms:
more than adequate in a five star establishment. Free €18-25, Doubles: €40-50. PJARGW
parking and free internet is the icing on Centrotel’s cake.
Q 59 rooms. Singles/Doubles: €60-80, Suites: €100. AthenStyle D5, Agias Theklas 10, Psirri, MMonasti-
PTJARW hhh raki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3225010, info@athenstyle.
com, www.athenstyle.com. If you are the type who prefers
Metropolis F5, Mitropoleos 46, MSyntagma, tel. to stay close to nightlife this new hostel is a perfect choice as
(+30) 210 3217871, fax (+30) 210 3217469, info@ it is located right in Psirri. An old recently converted building
hotelmetropolis.gr, www.hotelmetropolis.gr. Anyone with four and six bed dorms sharing a bathroom each and,
interested in some good old hanky panky? This is the if you prefer more privacy (at a higher price) you can opt for
place for you. This is also a good choice for backpackers one of the double rooms or even the studio flats. There is a
and travelers who prefer to spend their money on anything bar, free internet and a rooftop bar with a close up view of
other than a hotel. The rooms are less than basic but then the Acropolis and Plaka. Q Dorms: €25, Doubles, studios:
again, you will get to use the smallest bathroom ever. So € 60-150. PJAB
why stay in this 22-room lodge? Because you’ll get the feel
of what life is like in an original Bauhaus structure. Q 22 Dioskouros F7, Pittakou 6, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)
rooms. Singles: €40-70, Doubles: € 40-80, Triples: €60-100. 210 3248165,, fax (+30) 210 3219991, consolas@hol.
PJR6 hh gr, www.hotelfivos.gr. English-speaking, as most hostels
in Athens, and as basic as you can get, it is located in the
Pan F5, Mitropoleos 11,, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 heart of Plaka. There are 2 shared toilets on each floor and
3237816, fax (+30) 210 3237819, reservations@pan- no elevator to speak of. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll get a
hotel.gr, www.panhotel.gr. Named after ancient god Pan, room with air conditioning.The breakfast area is set in a
this family business is a respectable choice. The Internet pleasant outdoor patio. All the rooms are non-smoking.Q
is free of charge, the rooms are not bad for the price and Dorms: €20, Doubles €40, Triples €50. PJA
it is very well positioned, only a two-minute walk from the
Monastiraki area. Q 33 rooms. Singles: €60-80, Doubles: The Student and Travellers Inn F7, Kidathineon
€70-100. PTJAGW hhh 16, MAcropolis, tel. (+30) 210 32 44 808, www.
studenttravellersinn.com. This hostel is located in the
Hostels heart of Plaka. It offers private rooms for 1-4 people and
dorms. All rooms are air-conditioned and some offer private
Athens Backpackers F7, Makri 12, MAcropolis, facilities and balconies.There is free internet available and
tel. (+30) 210 9224044, info@backpackers.gr, www. services such 24 hour reception, laundry and long term
backpackers.gr. This hostel is a never-to-be-forgotten (up to three months) luggage storage. Breakfast is also
experience. 18-30 curious Americans adore this fully non- available on demand. Q Dorms: €15-20, Private rooms pp
smoking, English speaking joint, but if you hang out here €15-30. PJA
Apartments/Studios
Athens Studios E8, Veikou 3A, MAcropolis, EP16 D4, Epikourou 16, MThissio, tel. 6976
tel. 210 9235811, info@athensstudios.gr, www. 484135, info@boutiqueathens.com, www.EP16.
athensstudios.gr. This is one of our top low budget com. Lu xur y apar tment accommodation is scarce
favourites. You’ll be just a couple of steps away from in Athens, as is reasonably priced accommodation.
the New Acropolis Museum and the Acropolis itself. EP16 hits both birds with one stone and what’s more,
You’ll get to stay in an apartment that pretty much looks it brings a fresh metropolitan air to downtown Athens.
like home. Some of the delights to look forward to are Don’t think of chandeliers and sil ver cu tler y, the 4
flat screens, comfy sofas and a free ADSL connection. brand new apartments housed in a refurbished 1930s
Elspeth Geronimos, the lady in charge, wants to create building are luxurious in the contemporary sense of the
an English speaking corner in the heart of Athens and word: designer furniture, pleasant homey but minimal
her studios form part of this plan. A lunch corner and a environment, a location right in the arty heart of the
laundromat make up the other pieces of the puzzle. By city and every modern amenity you may ever need for
the way, don’t bother dropping off your dog at the kennels. a comfortable stay. This is definitely the next Athenian
Dogs are more than welcome! Make sure you don’t miss super-hit for the knowledgeable and lucky few (reserve
out on the opportunity to get a glimpse of the “Athens by well in advance). Minimum stay 3 days. Q €110 for the
night” walking tour, organised by Athens Studios. That’s larger apartments and €90 for the smaller ones. Nego-
the right time of day to appreciate the city’s delights, with tiable for long term stay. PTJA6GB
people who know where to take you. Q Singles: €22-26,
Doubles: €35-50, Triples: €96. PTJAR6G W
W
Ioannis (Royal Olympic Hotel) F8, Athanasiou Milos K5, Hilton hotel, Vasilisis Sofias 46, MEvangelismos,
Diakou 28-34, MAcropolis, tel. (+30)210 9288400. tel. (+30) 210 7244400. Although you’ll find it at the Hilton
Famous chef Kostas Tsigas is in charge of this new gourmet hotel, this is a fine stand-alone Athenian restaurant. The strong
restaurant in the roof garden of Royal Olympic Hotel. Tradi- point of Milos is its use of top-quality local produce, brought in
tional forgotten Greek recipes prepared with the freshest from around the country, including fresh fish from the Aegean
ingredients and a modern twist and a breathtaking view of Sea, which is shipped in on a daily basis. The ambience is ultra
most city landmarks (you can almost touch the Temple of modern and the clients are mainly businessmen and celebrities,
Olympian Zeus) make this restaurant well worth of one of among others. Very nice thought to offer a €20 lunch menu of the
your less casual Athenian nights. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. same quality as dinner but watch out: wine is not included and it
€€€€. PTJAB is not cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. €€€€. PJA
Kanella A4, Konstantinoupoleos 70 & Efmolpidon , Tirbouson A3, Konstantinoupoleos 104, Metaxourgio,
Gazi, MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3476320. One of MKerameikos, tel. (+30) 210 3410107. A relatively new
the great success stories of Gazi and the neo-taverna move- entry, this modern Greek restaurant is run by a young man
ment. A combination of a Greek mum’s type of cooking, low Giannis and his parents and offers delicious traditional Greek
prices and a fashionable clientele, packs this restaurant and food with a creative touch. The highlight of the dining hall (a
its pavement tables every single day and night. Cold lentil converted workshop) is an impressive light pendant made
salad and lemon lamb are our favourites while the house with wine bottles. If you are a train spotter, window tables
wine is an acceptable choice if you want to keep your bill at offer an undisturbed view of the rail tracks outside. QOpen
really low levels. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. €€. PTJB 14:00 - 02:00. €€. PTA
organic wine from the barrel and don’t worry about the cost,
Rozalia is a crisis-friendly eatery. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. Greek food
TJAB
Taverna tou Psirri D4, Eschylou 12, Psirri, MMona- Mezes (sing.) / Mezedes (pl.): A selection of
stiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3214923. As you can probably entrées served in small plates and placed
guess from our list of recommendations, we are huge fans at the centre of the table for sharing among
of original Greek tavernas serving real Greek food with no friends.
frills and attitude attached. This is definitely one of those Horiatiki: Traditional salad consisting of
places that has survived for decades in an area full of frills tomatoes, cucumber, green peppers, olives,
and attitude and poor excuses for Greek restaurants. They feta cheese and a generous serving of olive
do fish and they do meat and day specials and everything is oil, universally known as Greek Salad.
simply excellent. The wine is decent and comes from a barrel,
the atmosphere is welcoming and the staff are trying their
Horta: Salad composed of certain varieties
best when the place is packed. As for the bill, just don’t worry of boiled wild herbs or greens.
about it. QOpen 12:00 - 01:30. €€. PTJ Saganaki: Pan-fried type of dish served with
lemon. Popular varieties are the shrimp, or
To Kafeneio I5, Loukianou 26, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) ‘garides saganaki’, cheese or ‘tiri saganaki’
210 7237757. Unadulterated traditional Greek food in an and mussels or ‘midia saganaki’.
atmosphere of understated elegance. The dishes here are Gemista: Oven-roasted tomatoes, peppers
simple and flavoursome. We recommend the “aginares ala (and less usually, courgettes and aubergin-
polita” (artichokes in a lovely creamy egg and lemon sauce),
stuffed cabbage leaves (“lachanodolmades”) or the lovely es) stuffed with rice and herbs (and option-
speciality salad, accompanied by its good quality house wine. ally mince meat, pine nuts, raisins).
Of course, this being Kolonaki you will pay a bit more for your Gigantes: Giant beans oven-roasted in a
Greek culinary experience, but then again, the pleasant at- tomato and herb sauce.
mosphere and tasteful surroundings (including the signatures Melitzanosalata: Aubergine salad (dip).
of famous personalities that have passed through its doors) Taramosalata: Fish roe salad (dip).
explain the pricing policy. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. Closed Sun. Fava: Chick-pea dip served with lemon and
€€€. PJA
chopped onion.
Triantafyllo tis nostimias F5, Lekka 22, MSyntagma, Soutzoukakia: Spicy meatballs flavoured
tel. (+30) 210 3227298. Difficult to pronounce and impos- with cumin and served in a red sauce.
sible to find as it is hidden inside a small arcade, this traditional Moussakas: Well-known oven-baked dish
Greek taverna serves the local population of the surrounding of potatoes, layered with mince meat, au-
offices. There are both meat and fish dishes prepared with bergines and bechamel sauce.
fresh ingredients and a genuine taverna atmosphere that every Spanakopita: Traditional spinach pie.
Saturday afternoon comes alive with bouzouki. Add to all that Tiropita: Traditional cheese pie.
its ridiculous prices and you have a perfect lunch place two
minutes from Syntagma Sq. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Stifado: Type of meat dish slow-cooked in
Sun. Closed Aug 10-31 €€. PTJE wine and spices, together with a generous
amount of shallots.
Italian
Il Doppio G2, Andrea Metaxa 30, Exarchia, MOmonia, Il postino Skoufa 64 & Griveon 3, Kolonaki,
tel. (+30) 210 3304333. This unassuming trattoria serves MPanepistimio, tel. (+30) 210 3641414. This
tasty Italian specialties at reasonable prices. Once you set Italian-owned osteria serves fresh, simple, well cooked
foot in the elegant neoclassical building nestling right in the Italian food that you can watch being prepared in its open
busy epicentre of bohemian Exarchia, you will suddenly find kitchen. Postcards on the walls and flowery windows give
yourself in a traditionally Italian setting, complete with wooden the place a pleasant Italian feel, while outside tables will
floors and chairs, open-air kitchen, earth-coloured hues make you feel like you’re dining in a suburb of Rome. Its
-mainly ochre and beige- and checked table cloths, which all location is very convenient should you wish to continue your
contribute to creating an environment of understated style. evening in the nearby bars in this small but lively nightlife
It serves a wide selection of pasta dishes and also offers neighbourhood on the borders of Kolonaki and Exarchia.
an extensive wine list. Another of its attractions is its long QOpen 13:00 - 01:00. €€. PTJAB
opening hours, as this Italian-lovers’ haunt closes well after
midnight. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. €€. PJA
Meat Lovers
Drinks Butcher A5, Persefonis 19, Gazi, MKerameikos,
tel. (+30) 210 3413440. Following the huge success
of fish restaurant ‘Sardeles’, the owners set up shop next
Ouzo Traditional aniseed-flavoured spirit usually ac- door. This meat-only restaurant looks like an old butcher’s
companying seafood ‘mezedes’ shop and serves fine organic meats and local varieties of
Tsipouro Traditional strong spirit sausage supplied directly from every corner of Greece.
Raki Traditional strong spirit similar to tsipouro Potatoes fried in olive oil are a must. Lemon or chocolate
Rakomelo ‘Raki’ blended with honey, served warm pie and the complimentary liquors will round off your meal
Retsina Traditional wine flavoured with pine resin nicely. QOpen 13:00 - 01:30. €€€. PTJA
inyourpocket.com
Booze E4, Kolokotroni 57, MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) Kaf eneio Thissio C6, Akamantos 2, Thissio,
210 3240944, booze@boozecooperativa.com, www. MThissio,, tel. (+30) 210 3473133. This café was
boozecooperativa.com. This is not an ordinary café, it is serving the locals of Thissio long before bars and cafés
rather a part of an alternative art house, Booze Coopera- took over every last inch of available space around the
tiva, that hosts a large number of art events, exhibitions, area. These days, its clientele is a lot younger and its
concerts, video art projections and performances. There decoration modern and minimal. It maintains a distinct
is a long wooden table, magazines and board games, and if laid back Bohemian character, unlike most of its undif-
you feel at home and spend the whole day there, just step ferentiated neighbouring counterparts. Drinks are cheap
upstairs to the night club, an offspring of the historic 90s and if you feel peckish after the obligatory walk around the
Booze club. QOpen 10:00 - late. PJ6E Acropolis Rock, a light lunch comes at low prices. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. PJ
Da Capo H5, Tsakalof 1, Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma,
tel. (+30) 210 3602497. Famous outdoor café, where Klepsidra E6, Klepsidras & Thrasyvoulou 9, Plaka,
any self-respecting nouveau riche Athenian wants to be MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3212493. A nicely iso-
spotted among politicians, actors and high profile celeb- lated from the madding crowd café, it is a must stop during
rities. This isn’t just a simple “place to drink your coffee” your wandering in the narrow streets of Plaka. Coffees and
choice but a way of life for some of its regulars who spend refreshments will be placed next to the tasteful little fra-
hours here on a daily basis practicing the intricate ancient grant basil plants adorning the tables. An idyllic setting for
art of checking out passing crowds. Espresso and cap- quiet evening drinks too. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. JB
puccino prices are surprisingly reasonable considering
the location and the clientele. Q Open 07:30 - 00:00. Krinos E4, Aiolou 87, tel. (+30) 210 3216852. This
PJB café has been around since the twenties. Most of its
regulars too! Its old style has been kept intact, despite the
Dioskouroi Café D5, Adrianou 39, Monastiraki, occasional refurbishments. Here you’ll savour the best bou-
MMonastiraki, tel. (+30) 210 3253323. ‘Dioskouroi’ gatsa (cream pie topped with sugar and cinnamon) in town.
were the sons of Zeus and Leda. This is one of the few Also loukoumades, ice-cream and sandwiches priced lower
cafés under this label in the region and is situated in the for takeaways. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Sat 07:30 - 15:30, Tue,
picturesque spot just above Monastiraki Metro station. Thu, Fri 07:30 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PTJNS
Students love it and you’ll have a hard time finding a table.
Order frappé or Greek coffee in the morning and if you hang Museum Café F1, 28 Oktovriou (National Archaeo-
around long enough, continue with ouzo and “mezedes” logical Museum), MVictoria. Situated right next to the
while practicing your backgammon skills. QOpen 08:00 Museum, in a pleasant environment surrounded by potted
- 02:00. JB
Filion H4, Skoufa 34, Kolonaki, tel. (+30) 210 Yogurt bar
3612850. Despite its unremarkable décor, this lively café
manages to retain its multitude of regular customers (many Froyo E5, Ermou 55 & Kapnikareas 2, MSyn-
of them famous actors and writers), because of its cosy tagma, Monastiraki, tel. (+30) 212 1006147.
laid-back atmosphere and congenial environment. The New entry, the first Greek “yogurteria” introducing
coffee here is superb and so is the ice-cream, as this is frozen yogurt as an alternative, refreshing and healthy
one of the few places serving acclaimed Greek ice-cream dessert. You can combine it with one of 30 different
brand Kayak, guaranteed additive and preservative-free. kinds of toppings, like fresh fruit, cereal, nuts or with
A good choice for lingering and enjoying an invigorating chocolate pie and Greek sweets. Delicious! Q Open
beverage together with a scoop or two (or three!), or a 08:00 - 00:30, Sun 11:00 - 00:30.
traditional pastry following a strenuous shopping session
in Kolonaki. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PTJB
plants and trees (you may almost forget you’re right in the
chaotic centre of downtown Athens) this café serves good Bars
coffee, accompanied by a complimentary assortment of A Lier Man A4, Sofroniou 2 Gazi, MKerameikos, tel.
biscuits and mini-croissants. Food is respectable and (+30) 210 3426322. This bar-restaurant belongs to the
reasonably priced. If you visit in early spring, try finding select club of establishments that become trendy as soon
a table next to the almond tree, it is absolutely beautiful as they open their doors to the public. Tucked in a narrow
when in bloom. Service is efficient and polite. A good choice street just off the main Gazi square, it has been one of the
for a snack following your visit to the nearby Archaeological big hits of the last season. Although they serve food, the
Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €. PJB place is primarily a bar with small rooms and smart decora-
tion where freestyle crowds pack themselves to enjoy good
National Gardens café H6, National Gardens, Irodou music of different genres. When the weather is good a couple
Attikou entrance, MSyntagma. Grab a book and walk of tables outside serve as a much needed chill out retreat.
into the national gardens where you’ll find this little tranquil QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. PJK
outdoor café, with its tables scattered in the thick shade
of the garden’s trees. Coffees, snacks, refreshments and Ambariza F5, Lekka 14, MSyntagma, tel. 210
the best cool afternoon break in the city. QOpen 09:00 3257644. It opens early in the morning serving coffees and
- 20:00. J6B snacks etc but this place is basically a watering hole for selec-
tive drinkers. Dark wood is everywhere and the long bar is its
Numismatic Museum Café G4, Panepistimiou 12, strongest point while guest DJs fill the place with appropriate
MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3643774. Whether you funky - jazzy tunes. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PJ
are interested or not in the coins collections housed in
the museum, its café is a must refueling stop during your Athens Sports Bar E8, Veikou 3A, Makry, MAcropolis,
wanders downtown. As central as it gets, it is located in www.athenssportsbar.gr. It’s the only Australian-run bar in
the cool garden of the museum and has a civilised and Athens and it caters to ex-pats, tourists and all sports fans
relaxing atmosphere - an oasis in the noisy city centre. who love watching a game of their favourite sport the right
The café offers a large selection of snacks, sandwiches, way: with lots of beer and a fun atmosphere. Mondays are
wines and homemade sweets perfect for lunch or a light pub quiz nights and Thursdays Karaoke. Happy hour every
dinner complete with jazz sounds. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. evening 19:00-20:00 QOpen 07:30 - late. PJB
PTJ
Baba Au Rum E5, Kleitiou 6, MSyntagma, Monastiraki.
Serbetia tou Psirri Eschylou 3, Psirri, MMonasti- Forget everything you knew about cocktails! This new arrival
raki, tel. (+30) 210 3245862. The best way to finish is virtually a cocktail lab! The guys import directly most of the
off the dinner you’ve just had in Taverna tou Psirri across rare spirits, bitters and syrups they use to produce their out-
the street.Home made sweets and preserves like cherry of-this-world cocktails. Their excellent menu-booklet includes
and bergamot, huge ice cream servings, sweet crepes, seven cocktails you ‘must taste at least once in your lifetime’.
baklava and all kinds of coffees are served in this cute We had them all during our first visit and we can only agree
little cafe just off the main Psirri square. QOpen 10:30 with the statement. The place itself has the minimal-industrial
- 01:30. PT feel of the ‘Bios’ school but most people stand outside right
in the heart of the city’s historic triangle. The only negative
Skoufaki H4, Skoufa 47-49, MPanepistimio, tel. point is that it can take long to be served when the place is
(+30) 210 3645888. A small café with character. This is packed. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. PJB
where you’ll find your average arty type sitting side by side
with your typical mid 30s ladies taking a break from their Bartesera F5, 25, Kolokotroni St. & Praxitelous Gallery,
strenuous shopping spree. It’s a strange combination but, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 3229805. This bar is divided
for this freestyle coffee shop, it seems to work out fine. into 3 parts. A sitting room for quiet conversations, a bustling
You’ll get to listen to an assortment of music and, if you lose section and, in the middle, a space for those who like a bit of
track of time, you’ll witness its gradual transformation into both. As for the music, expect nothing less than alternative
a night bar. If you want to stay out of sight, try the upstairs lashings of jazz, progressive, soul and hip-hop. One of the
level. Lazy sofas and cozy corners are perfect for hush-hush hottest night spots in town these days, frequented by your
rendezvous. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJ average 25-40 freestylers. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. Closed:
Aug 13-24. PJB
Stavlos C5, Iraklidon 10, Thissio, MThissio, tel.
(+30) 210 3467206, www.stavlos.gr. The King’s sta- Bios B4, Pireos 84, Kerameikos, MKerameikos/
bles once, now a café, restaurant, club and art exhibition Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3425335, bios@bios.gr, www.
venue all under the same roof. It is probably the only one bios.gr. A point of reference for the alternative-progressive
among equivalent establishments situated on Thission’s Athenian youth. A minimal bar, a stage for live performances,
central night-time thoroughfare, which is known by its name a basement club hosting experimental djs and two small art
and which can boast of loyal regulars. The inner courtyard house cinemas, all under the same industrial roof of a beauti-
provides a pleasant alternative if you’re not desperate to ful bauhaus building with a quiet roof garden with a distinct
enjoy your drink with a ‘catwalk’ view just outside. QOpen downtown feel. Founder Vassilis Charalampidis, a designer
09:00 - 02:00. PJA and his team, have embarked on a ‘creative exploration of the
multiple manifestations of urban culture’, at the same time
Zonar’s (Le Café D’Athenes) G5, Panepistimiou bringing Athenian nightlife a step closer to Berlin, London and
& Voukourestiou st, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) 210 New York. Its quiet roof garden has a distinct downtown feel.
3211158. A historic café that opened its doors again, QOpen 11:00 - 3:00. PJW
following complete renovation a couple of years ago. It
has the atmosphere of a grand café, a rich history dur- Brettos F6, Kydathineon 41, Plaka, MSyntagma, tel.
ing the last century and a very central location. QOpen (+30) 210 3232110, www.brettosplaka.com. A unique
09:00 - 01:00. PJA store and one of the oldest Athenian family distilleries, selling
its own brand of traditional sweet liquors during the day and
Priza Bar F4, Christou Lada 1, Karitsi Sq, MPanepis- The James Joyce D5, Astigos 12, Monastiraki,
timio, tel. (+30) 210 3244101, www.stinpriza.gr. A MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. (+30) 210 3235055, fax
bar decorated with hundreds of… sockets, promising to (+30) 210 3235070, info@jjoyceirishpubathens.com,
electrify your evenings in Athens. It is fast acquiring its www.jjoyceirishpubathens.com. This is precisely what
own fans and becoming a distinct presence around Karitsi was missing from the Athenian scene: A typical Irish pub.
square, a neighbourhood with many bars of different styles All major sports events are covered and every weekend
that, nonetheless, all cater for selective crowds of the and some week nights artists from around Europe perform
city. A different dj takes his place behind the decks every live. The decoration is unpretentious and tasteful: dark
evening, playing anything from electronica to house and wood, barrels, porcelain and books. The interesting black
freestyle. Just watch your fingers, unless of course you are n’ white liquor trade photos add an extra touch to the
desperate for a funky Einstein-reminiscent hairdo! QOpen whole drinking ritual.If your stomach begins to complain,
20:00 - 03:00. PJB order, what else? Fish n’chips. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00.
PJA6IEB
Rosebud G4, Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Kolonaki, MPanepis-
timio, tel. (+30) 210 3392370. This is a gorgeous artistic Toy Bar F4, Karitsi 10, MPanepistimio/ Syntagma,
café-restaurant with Belgian comic-book character Tin-Tin as tel. (+30) 210 3311555. This is a small bar that pio-
its wall-tapestries’ motif. In order to get a table you’ll have to neered the nightlife scene around Karitsi Square. A classic
be granted three wishes by a genie. Successfully ingenious already, it encompasses three distinctive bars within the
snacks are prepared on the first floor, true to the originality of same establishment: In the morning, it serves coffee and
the establishment. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PJA sandwiches, in the late afternoon, it attracts professionals
for after work drinks while, in the evening, it transforms
Seven Jokers F5, Voulis 7, MSyntagma, tel. (+30) itself into a lively and perennially packed bar with a loyal
210 3219225. A real fun bar for those who want to get clientele that flocks here to enjoy delicious cocktails and
sloshed. The owner/bartender puts on an amazing show, listen to excellent music of different genres, depending on
with dancing and singing on his everyday menu. Freestylers the resident dj. One of our favourites. QOpen 10:00 -
and media staff love it here, but you’ll also get to meet ex- 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Aug 9-18 PJA6
pats as Reuters is at walking distance from here. And when
you find yourself awake the next morning on a bench or on Tribeca G3, Skoufa 46, Kolonaki, MPanepistimio,
one of the bar’s seats with a terrible hangover, just order a tel. (+30) 210 3623541. Young flir ty professionals
coffee and one of those delicious sandwiches Seven Jokers gather here for after-work drinks to see and be seen by
offers in the morning and head off straight to work. QOpen their peers. Music is mainstream, drinks are good but if
10:00 - 03:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. PJ you arrive dressed as if coming straight from the beach,
souvlaki-gyros in hand, you will definitely raise a few eye-
Six D.O.G.S. E5, Avramiotou 6-8, MMonastiraki, brows. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PJA
tel. (+30) 2103210510. A completely new concept has
taken over Avramiotou Street, a tiny, little road hidden just
off Athinas Street. Once the haunt of skaters and general
night-time shenanigans with four different bars offering up
four very different identities, 6 D.O.G.S has taken over with a
bar, an events space as well as a gallery. Hosting a mixture of
live and electronic musical events and parties practically on
a daily basis, this is one street that’s always got something
going on. Good times to be had. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 22:00 - 05:00. PJEB
The Erechtheion on the Acropolis Rock. The Caryatids are replicas of the original ones housed in the new Museum
Acropolis of Athens , MAcropolis, tel. 210 3210219. 6th Century BC, was the site of the Great or City Dionysia
Set in a site covering 30,000 sq.m., the Acropolis of Athens celebrations. Here too was the theatre of Dionysus, one of
is a perfect example of how ancient architecture was adapted the world’s most ancient theatres, where the works of the Ae-
to a natural site to form what has become a model worldwide schylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed. The same
and down the ages. It was the ancient city’s most important archaeological area is also home to the Odeion of Pericles,
religious centre and its monuments, (the Parthenon, the ancient Athens’ first roofed building for musical contests,
Erechtheion, the Propylaea -the monumental entrance to the the sanctuary of the healing god Asklepius founded in the
Acropolis- and the small Temple of Athena Nike) have become 5th century BC, the Stoa given to the city in 160 B.C. by the
an important symbol of ancient Greece’s bequest to Europe king of Pergamon, Eumenes II, various monuments donated
and the world.The first signs of occupation on the ‘sacred by sponsors of theatrical performances such as the Monu-
rock’ of the Acropolis date back to the Neolithic period (2nd ment of Lysicrates, and the Odeion of Herodus Atticus, built
millennium BC). In Mycenaean times (1200-1100BC) it was in the 2nd century AD. With the predominance of Christianity,
the seat of the king, whose palace stood roughly where the especially during the 5th century AD, many buildings on the
Erechtheion was built many centuries later. After the 11th South Slope were reconsecrated as Christian monuments.
century BC until the end of Antiquity, it was home to the cult The East Slope is dominated by the cave of Aglauros, where
of Athena, patron goddess of the city that took her name. the Athenian youths (ephebes) took the oath to protect the
There, Athena was worshipped at majestic temples, brilliant sanctuaries and sacred institutions of the city. One of the
buildings and a vast number of votive monuments. The most most important monuments of the North Slope is the spring
renowned were built in the second half of the 5th century of Klepsydra, in front of which ran the last section of the
BC, when Athens took a lead among the ancient world’s city Panathenaic Way. On this side of the rock there are three cave
states, following important victories against the Persians sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the
and the establishment of Democracy. In the golden age that cave with the Mycenaean spring, the sanctuary of Aphrodite
followed, thought and art flourished, and an exceptional group and Eros and the Medieval church of Saint Nicolas.
of artists made the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman
Pericles reality, under the guidance of the sculptor Pheidias.
The most important monuments were built during that time:
www.theotheracropolis.com
the Parthenon, built by Ictinos (447-432BC), the Erechtheion, The Acropolis of Athens has been many things other than
with its shrines to Athena Polias and Poseidon-Erechtheus and what we have learned to believe. The collective behind
the porch adorned with the famous Caryatids hand-maidens the ‘www.theotheracropolis.com’ project, tries to intro-
(421-406BC), the Propylaea - the monumental entrance to duce us to the different faces, roles and identities of the
the Acropolis designed by Mnesicles (437-431BC) - and the
sacred rock through the centuries. They want to take our
small temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC). QAdmission: €12,
Concessions: €6 (4 day pass). perception of the site away from the stereotypical tourist
experience and “undermine the monolithic discourse on
The Slopes of the Acropolis D6,D7,E7, The 70,000 the Acropolis as an exclusively classical site”.
sq.m. archaeological site of the Slopes of the Acropolis
extends around the Sacred Rock of the Acropolis. After An extremely interesting photo blog worth checking out
the Acropolis itself, the Slopes were the most important before the obligatory visit, especially for those who like
religious centre of ancient Athens. The sanctuary of Dio- to go a bit deeper than the surface.
nysus Eleuthereus on the South Slope, established in the
Lysikrates Monument
Parthenon E6, MAcropolis, tel. 210 3214172. Built
between 447-437BC, during the ‘Golden Age’ of Athens
under Pericles, the Parthenon is a world famous sight.
Its design harmoniously combines the Doric and Ionic
orders, and its architectural and structural details and
the precision in the carving of the marble are a testament
to the expertise in the artisans that created it. Further,
the décor of the Parthenon and its surrounding monu-
ments had a profound and lasting influence on Western
art (especially sculpture and portraiture), as it depicted
the human form in an individualised manner for the first
time. These artistic innovations fuelled developments
that influenced the art of Hellenistic and Roman times,
as well as the Renaissance, Baroque, Romanticism and
Neoclassicism. Q Admission: €12, Concessions: €6
(four day pass)
snakes, though the real triumph here is the work that went dating to the 5th/4th Century BC, with black lines running
into restoration efforts – the plaster casts that complete the from her expressive inlaid eyes, she seems to be crying, while
statues are second to none. a marble sphere dating to the 3rd/2nd BC carved with magic
symbols and icons suggests we are looking at something
that was just as much a mystery to the ancients as it is to
those looking upon it today.
The Propylaia, Erectheion and Temple of the The magnificent Parthenon Gallery VK
Athena Nike, 1st Floor: After the Archaic temple comes
one of the crowning jewels of the Acropolis complex and the The Parthenon Gallery, 3rd floor: The Parthenon
Museum – the famous Caryatids – female sculptures that Gallery is where visitors can truly appreciate the museum
acted as columns on the Erectheion temple’s porch. Built on design and its intentions. Built with the precise geometry
the site of the geometric period temple to Athena Polias (the and dimensions of the Parthenon, one can admire the inner
Ancient Temple) which had been destroyed by the Persians, frieze, the outer metopes and the crowning pediments
the Erectheion is known for its irregular design, in part due while looking towards the Parthenon itself, perched atop
to the irregular surface of the rock as well as the need to the Acropolis hill. Finally, it feels like the pieces have found a
protect the remains of ancient cults, a mark of respect after home worthy of their stature, and a walk around this exhibi-
the Persian-induced destruction to the Acropolis, something tion hall evokes the magnificence of the mighty structure.
the ancient Greeks never forgot. Another special aspect of Nevertheless, the spectacular exhibition space invokes
this display is that rather than being sealed off in a glass, as mixed feelings. Many of the displayed pieces are replicas of
was the case in the old Acropolis Museum, the Caryatids can fragments housed mainly in the British Museum, though the
finally be enjoyed in the round, an illustration of the museum’s conspicuous gaps in the gallery make the frieze found behind
dedication to bringing its exhibits to life. This is evident in the the west pediment appear all the more miraculous – bar one
temple of Athena Nike’s frieze exhibit– a scaled arrange- missing piece, this section is made up entirely of fragments
ment of how the frieze would appear on the temple itself, belonging to the museum. The shame in the situation is
which most people pass as they enter the Acropolis through unavoidable, particularly when most of the breathtaking
the Propylaia without a second glance. A number of reliefs pediment sculptures - especially on the west pediment - are
are also on display, taken from the Nike temple’s balustrade, plaster casts. However, the cast makers’ excellent work, is
the Sandal-binding Nike being a glorious example of superb also apparent in the expert reconstruction of the floral ak-
relief-carving, with luscious fabrics draped over an even more roterion that once crowned the Parthenon’s east pediment.
lusciously carved out body. Indeed, regardless of the debate, the work that has gone
5th Century BC. – 5th Century AD, 1st floor: into the museum is unquestionable, something eloquently
Representing periods in the expressed in the bewitched faces of its visitors - history really
Acropolis’ history from the Helle- does come alive here.
nistic period, the Roman period,
and the advent of Christianity,
classical art lovers will admire
the face of the cult statue of Ar-
temis Brauronia by Praxiteles,
one of the most celebrated attic
sculptors of the 4th Century BC.
In fact, faces are the real winner
in this section, with a collection
of portrait busts allowing visitors
to gaze into the intricately carved Original and replica: Spot the difference! VK
faces of historical figures such as
a young Alexander the Great,
as well as Lucius Verrus, Agrippina the Younger, Emperor Acropolis Museum E7 Dionysiou Areopagitou 15,
Caracalla, his wife Plautillia and a rather handsome portrait MAcropoli, tel. 210 9000901, info@theacropolis-
of a Barbarian from the 3rd quarter of the 2nd Century AD museum.gr, www.theacropolismuseum.grQOpen
exhibited in the Roman period – who knew savages could 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00-22:00 ,Closed Mon, Admission
look so refined? This section also contains the museum’s fee: €5. We recommend you reserve tickets on-line in
most curious exhibits - a haunting marble face of a woman order to avoid queues.
Museum hours:
Museum of the Ancient Agora D5, Adrianou 24, New Benaki Museum A5, Pireos 138, MKerameikos,
MThissio, tel. 210 3210185. Housed in the renovated tel. 210 3453111, www.benaki.gr. This recently opened
‘Stoa of Attalos’ (dating to 150BC) within the archaeological annex to the Benaki Museum is situated in an ex-industrial
site of the Ancient Agora, it is a veritable Museum of the and underprivileged strip spanning Piraeus Str and extend-
History of Democracy, showcasing items linked with the ing to the Gazi area, which is fast transforming itself into a
development of Athenian public and commercial life, civic veritable hub of experimental and avant-garde artistic activ-
emancipation and democratic institutions, from antiquity ity. Housed in a tasteful building that gracefully combines
up until the birth of the modern Greek State. There are simplicity and an imposing aspect and provides a most
a number of world-acclaimed ceramic items and statues welcome contrast to its rather neglected surroundings,
among its collections, such as the colossal statue of Apollon this Museum is well worth a visit if you wish to take in what
Patroos (c. 330BC). The models of the Ancient Agora (com- Athens has to offer as far as modern and contemporary art
mercial centre), Acropolis and Pnyx (public meeting area) are exhibitions are concerned. As well as its regularly alternating
very illuminating as regards the city’s ancient topography. temporary exhibitions, it also periodically hosts alternative
QOpen 08:00 - 16:45, Mon 11:00 - 16:45. Admission fee: drama performances by independent unconventional theatre
€4, concessions: €2.
Children’s Athens
Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli Junction, tions of an interactive character, including state-of-the-art
Rentis, tel. 210 4256990, www.allou.gr. Entertain- technological applications.
ment Park covering about 40,000 square metres. The The Foundation also hosts the ‘Tholos’, a dome-shaped
Park includes an extensive array of amusement rides, virtual-reality theatre, currently showing an interactive tour
an ‘Adrenaline Zone’, the ‘Shock Tower’ (a 40m free of the Ancient Athenian Agora. The Foundation includes a
fall experience) and the largest observation wheel in conventional theatre, a café, internet-access area and gift-
Greece. ‘Kidom’ is the adjacent fairytale park designed shop. Highly recommended if you are looking for a high-tech
for younger children, complete with a pirate ship, carou- educational experience for the whole family and want to
sel, trampolines, and climbing towers. Bus no: B18 and rediscover the little explorer in you. (Bus line 049 Omonia-
trolleybus 21 from Omonia. A taxi will cost €6-8 from the Piraeus, Bus-stop: Viochalko) QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed
centre of Athens. 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission
QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 fee: €4-6, Tholos: €10.
- 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Admission: Free (A fee is
charged for using the rides & games). Kidom is open Hellenic Children’s Museum Kidathineon 14,
until 00:00 daily Plaka, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3312995, fax 210
3312996, info@hcm.gr, www.hcm.gr. This is a small
Attica Zoological Park Yalou, Spata, tel. 210 haven for children aged up to 12 years old, with multifaceted
6634724, fax 210 6634726, zoo@atticapark.gr, thematic exhibits specially designed to cater to childrens’
www.atticapark.gr. Although it cannot be said that this imagination and stimulate their intellectual, creative and
is among the world’s greatest zoos, inquisitive faculties. It covers an area
you and your children will definitely of more than 520 sq. m. in a historic
enjoy a few hours of fun away from three-storey neoclassical building,
the city centre. You’ll have the oppor- including an attic and garden. QOpen
tunity to see more than two hundred , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 14:00,
species of birds, many reptiles, Greek Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.
fauna species like: wolves, bears, Free entrance.
foxes and wild cats, a number of
African mammals like giraffes, zebras, Natural History (Goulandris)
antelopes and some rare animals Museum Levidou 13 / Othonos
like snow leopards and white lions. 100 (Gaea Centre), MKifisia, tel.
Visitors can walk into the monkeys’ 210 8015870, fax 210 8080674,
enclosure and also walk through a info@gnhm.gr, www.gnhm.gr. This
special tunnel and get very close to Museum houses an extensive collec-
the four cheetahs of the park. To get tion of zoological, botanical, entomo-
there take the 319 bus from Doukisis logical, geological and palaeontologi-
Plakentias metro station. Q Open cal exhibits, with the aim of shedding
09:00 - sunset. Admission fee: €14, light on the evolution of the Earth and
Children, Seniors: €10. living systems, as well as raising public
awareness regarding the urgent need
Copa Copana (Summer only) to safeguard the environment. The
12th km Athinon Ave. Haidari, tel. Gaea Centre is a modern exhibition
210 5576006, www.copacopana- area with interactive displays and
park.com. Children and grown ups are audiovisual performances that tackle
guaranteed a day of endless fun in this huge entertainment and invite the reader to address topical environmental is-
theme park just fifteen minutes from the city centre. Wa- sues. Amenities include special educational programmes
terslides of every kind, swimming pools, islands, waterfalls for children, a café-restaurant, gift-shop, as well as a parking
and the Magic Town, the biggest children playground in area. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30, Sun 10:00 - 14:30. Closed:
Greece, complete with a pirate ship: an absolute heaven Until Aug 20 Admission fee: €5 (€7 combined ticket for Gaea
for the little ones. There is a café, pool bars and a Mediter- Centre), concessions: €3 (€4).
ranean restaurant and the fun continues in the evening with
cocktails, DJs and live music. Bus No: A16, B16, E16, 865 Planetarium-Eugenides Foundation Syngrou 387,
from Koumoundourou sq, Bus stop: Afaia-Haidari. A taxi ride Palio Faliro, tel. 210 9469641, www.eugenfound.edu.
costs about €10. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Weekdays: €17, gr. Fancy a journey to the stars? If you’re not a millionaire or
children up to 12 yrs: €10 Weekends: €20, children up to 12 an astronaut but just curious what Neptune looks like this
yrs: €12. Family and member tickets also available. time of year, drop by the Eugenides Foundation. This is home
to the largest and, by general acclaim, most advanced digi-
Foundation of the Hellenic World Pireos 254, tal 3-D 360 degrees Planetarium in the world, built in 2003
MKallithea, tel. 212 2540000, fax 212 2540123, and designed to seat 280 people at a time. Large format
hellenic_cosmos@ime.gr, www.hellenic-cosmos.gr. films and planetarium shows are projected on a 25-metre
This Centre, situated in a former industrial complex and diameter dome. Thanks to the latest digital technology
spanning a total area of approximately 60,000 sq.m., is you can scuba dive in the great barrier reef, get up close
not a Museum in the conventional sense of the term. It and personal with a Hawaiian volcano crater and follow
does host exhibitions aiming at showcasing the develop- Neil Armstrong’s footsteps on the surface of the moon.
ment of the arts, sciences and every aspect of society Buses: 126, A2,B2 from Akadimias & Omirou St QOpen
throughout the Hellenic world. Yet, its exhibits are not the 19:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 20:30. Closed Mon, Tue.
usual original artefacts, but contemporary reconstruc- Planetarium Digital Shows: €6, iWERKS Shows: €8.
National Gardens VK
National Gardens G6, Amalias Street, MSyntagma. pages) are also to be found here offering the same breathtak-
Created and designed by Queen Amalia in the 19th century, ing views of the capital.
the National Gardens provide a pleasant green haven in the
heart of bustling downtown Athens. Its meandering bench- Pedion tou Areos Pati-
laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, make up a favou- sion (28th October) & Al-
rite stroll for everyone. Feeding the ever-hungry water fowl at exandras St, MVictoria.
the ponds is a must, while you may also visit the Botanical A lovely park located within
Museum and, for the young (or young at heart) there is the easy walking distance (just
dedicated Childrens’ Museum. A pleasant coffee-shop is also fi ve minu tes) from th e
located in its grounds. National Archaeological
Museum, i ts expansi ve
Botanical Gar den tree-lined vistas make for
(Diomidous Gardens) a pleasant stroll during the day - there are also numerous
401, Iera Odos Avenue. impressive statues of Greek War of Independence heroes.
Extending over a vast area
of 1,800 hectares in Ath- Zappeion Garden G7,
ens’ western suburbs of Vas. Olgas Av. MSyntag-
Korydallos, Dafni and Agia ma, Acropolis. Situated
Var vara, i t makes for a right next to (and actually
lovel y and invigorating, forming an extension of)
if impractically situated, the National Gardens, the
scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds you can Zappeion Garden gener-
find an overwhelming abundance of flora (more than 3000), ously provides a serene
some of which are exceedingly rare, as well as a dedicated get-away from the hustle
botanic section with pharmaceutical plants. QOpen 08:00 and bustle. There are wonderfully crafted statues to be
- 14:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. seen, while the café and restaurant are well worth a visit.
These Gardens harmoniously combine the grand (imposing
Lycabettus Hill I3 architecture of the Zappeion Hall) with the pristine, in its cool
It can be reached on foot shady vistas and green corner get-aways.
for the adventurous via a
beautiful pedestrian walk-
way surrounded by pine Presidential Palace Gardens H6, Irodou Attikou
trees, by the funicular or by St. MSyntagma Do not miss the opportunity for a stroll
car, offering excellent views in the gardens of a historic Royal residence-now the
of the entire city and the Presidential Palace. The magnificent gardens became
Saronic Gulf. There is an open-air theatre atop the Hill that accessible for the first time last March after President
regularly hosts concerts during summer months. Also on the Karolos Papoulias decided to open their gates to the
Hill is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint public every Sunday 10:00 - 14:00.
George. A coffee-shop and restaurant (see our restaurant
Car rental
Avis Tel. 210 6879600, fax 210 6879610,
reservations@avis.gr, www.avis.gr
Budget Tel. 800 11 800 12, 210 8981444,
reservations@budget-athens.gr, www.budget-
athens.gr.
Europcar Tel. 210 2882151, fax 210 2882050,
info@batek-europcar.gr, www.europcar.com.gr
Run out of cigarettes, feel like reading a newspaper, Hertz Tel. 210 6264000, fax 210 6264409,
craving for a chocolate, need a condom, or worst of www.hertz.gr
all, someone stole your In Your Pocket guide at 5 in the
morning? No worries, here is where you’ll find 24-hour National Tel. 210 3493428, fax 210 3493417,
kiosks: reservations@nationalcar.gr, www.nationalcar.
gr
Kolonaki Sq. H5 Mavili Sq. K4
Syntagma Sq. G5
Kanigos Sq. F2
Omonia Sq. E3
Ag Assomaton Sq. C5
Courier Services
ACS 210 8190000 DHL tel. 210 9890000
TNT tel. 801 11868868 UPS tel. 210 9984000
Airlines
Aegean Viltanioti 31, Kifisia, tel. 210 6261000/Air-
port: 210 3530101.
Aeroflot Xenofontos 14, tel. 210 3220986/Airport:
210 3531101. If you are the old-fashioned type and a snail-mail lover,
Aerosvit Syngrou 36-38, tel. 210 9210710/Airport: here is a list of centrally located post offices.
210 3534020. The stamp to post a 20gr letter or postcard abroad
Air France Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 costs €0.70. Add to that €3.20 for registered and €2.90
9970700/Airport: 210 3530380. for express mail.
Air China Filellinon 24, tel. 210 3716386/Airport:
210 3534245. Acropolis post kiosk D6, Acropolis rock, MAk-
Albanian Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3227466/Airport: ropolis, tel. 210 3217650. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00,
210 3530376. Sun 09:00 - 13:30.
Alitalia Vouliagmenis 577, tel. 210 9988888/Airport: Aiolou - Central PO E3, Aiolou 100, MOmonia,
210 3534284. tel. 210 3216024. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30
Austrian Vouliagmenis 18, Glyfada, tel. 210 9601240/ - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Airport: 210 3533425. Exarchia G1, Zaimi 36-38, MVictoria, tel. 210
British Airways Themistokleous 1, Glyfada, tel. 210 8219570. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
801 1156000/Airport: 210 3531170. Kolonaki I5, Ploutarchou & Karneadou 35, MEvan-
Bulgaria Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3228113/Airport: 210 gelismos, tel. 210 7244404. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00.
3531156. Closed Sat, Sun.
Continental Airlines Filellinon 25, tel. 00800 Makrigianni F7, Dionisiou Areopagitou 7, MAk-
44143592/Airport: 210 3530678. ropolis, tel. 210 9218076. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00.
Cyprus Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3534100/ Closed Sat, Sun.
Airport: 210 3534312. Metaxourgio C3, Thermopylon 42, MMetaxourgio,
Czech Airlines Kyprou 151, Argyroupoli, tel. 210 tel. 210 5225277. QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed
9652957/Airport: 210 3531252. Sat, Sun.
Delta Athens International Airpor t, tel. 00800 Mitropoleos E5, Mitropoleos 60, MMonastiraki,
44129506/Airport: 210 3530116. tel. 210 3218143. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00. Closed
Emirates Syngrou 128, tel. 210 9333400/Airport: Sat, Sun.
210 3531174. Omonia E2, 3rd Septemvriou 28, MOmonia, tel. 210
Gulf Air Nikis 33, tel. 210 3220851/Airport: 210 5233636. QOpen 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
3531566. Plaka F6, Nikis 33, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3235831.
Ib eria Athens International Airpor t, tel. 210 QOpen 07:30 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
3537600. Syntagma Square F5, , MSyntagma, tel. 210
Jat Airways Amerikis 10, tel. 210 3622054/210 3237573. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 14:00,
3634572. Sun 09:00 - 13:30.
KLM Megalou Alexandrou 7, Argyroupoli, tel. 210
9110000/Airport: 210 3533436.
LOT Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3237762/Airport: 210
3530376.
Lufthansa Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175200.
Malev Panepistimiou 15, tel. 210 3241116/Airport: Luggage lockers
210 3530376.
Luggage lockers can be found at Omonia, Monastiraki
Olympic Syngrou 96, tel. 801 801 0101/Airport: 210 and Piraeus old (green) line metro stations (€3 per 24h).
3550500.
Qatar Airways Syngrou 170, tel. 210 9508700/Air-
port: 210 3534011.
SAS Vouliagmenis 85, Gly fada/Airpor t: 210
3530373. Free Internet
Singapore Airlines Kallirois 103, tel. 210 3728000/
Airport: 210 3531259.
Swiss Sorou 18-20, Marousi, tel. 210 6175320/Airport: athenswifi: Grab your laptop, head to Syntagma
210 3530382. Square, Kotzia Square, or Thissio (from the metro station
Thai El. Venizelou 32, Glyfada, tel. 210 9692020/210 up along the pedestrian path), find somewhere comfort-
3531237. able to sit and log on: Internet access is free!
Turkish Athens International Airport, tel. 210 3537280/
Airport: 210 3530401.
Ferry Schedule
From Piraeus to: Days Dep.
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS 1234567 7:25
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos / HS –––4567 17:15
Paros-Naxos-Santorini/BS 1234567 7:25
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /BS 12–4567 7:35
Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos-Milos- 1234567 7:25
Kimolos/GA
Paros-Naxos/HS 1234567 7:30
Ios-Santorini/HS 1234567 7:15
Santorini-Rethymno –2–––6– 15:45
Paros-Naxos/HS 1234567 16:30
Siros-Tinos-Mykonos /HS 12–4567 17:15
Paros-Naxos-Iraklia-Shinousa- ––3–5–7 17:30
Koufonisi-Amorgos-BS
Paros-Naxos-Amorgos- 1–––––– 17:30 OSE train in northern Greece VK
Astipalea/BS
Syros-Paros-Naxos-Donousa- –2 – 4 – 6 – 17:30
Trains
Amorgos-Astipalea/BS
Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS
Siros-Ikaria-Samos-HS
1234–––
––––5––
13:00
16:00
T he Greek rail network is one of the smallest in
Europe. In fact, there is one main line to the north
of the country and another to the Peloponnese. The
Paros-Naxos-Kalimnos-Kos- 1–3–––– 15:00 mountainous landscape of the country does not allow
Nisiros-Tilos-Rodos/BS for an extensive network but the truth is that the railway
Chios-Mytilini/NEL 12345–7 19:00 never featured among Greek governments' top priorities.
Siros-Kos-Rodos/BS 1––4––– 19:00 Only over the last twenty years, there has been an effort
Serifos-Sifnos-Milos/HS 12–4567 18:00 to modernise and upgrade the standards of the rail
Kalimnos-Kos-Rodos/BS –2–4––– 18:00 services and as a result the travel time between Athens
Syros-Patmos-Leros-Kos- –– 3–––– 19:00 and Thessaloniki is now less than five hours. However,
Rodos/BS for the rail journey lovers, Greek railways are not short
Heraklio/ANEK 1234567 20:30 of scenic routes, some of them otherwise inaccessible.
Heraklio/ML 1234567 21:00 Every train departs Athens from Larisis station (Metro:
Chania/Anek 1234567 21:00 Stathmos Larisis)
Paros/BS ––––5–7 21:00 OSE Sina 6 (Central tickets office), tel. 1110, www.
Paros-Naxos-Ios-Sikinos- –––––6– 15:00 ose.gr. Online reservations: http://tickets.trainose.gr
Folegandros-Santorini-Anafi/
GA
Kithnos-Serifos-Sifnos- –2–4––– 15:00
Kimolos-Milos-Folegandros- Train schedule
Sikinos-Ios-Santorini-Anafi
Patmos-Leros-Kos-Rodos/BS –––––6– 23:55 From Athens To Athens
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
Ferry companies 6:50-IC 11:54
7:53-ICEX 12:20
THESSALONIKI
THESSALONIKI
1:41-IC 6:45
7:13-ICEX 11:40
ANEK LINES Akti Kondyli 22, Pireaus, tel. Domes- 9:21 15:02 THESSALONIKI 10:13 15:21
tic:210 4197420/International:210 4197430, boo- 10:51-IC 15:50 THESSALONIKI 11:40-IC 16:43
king@anek.gr, www.anek.gr. Ferry connections between 13:21-IC 18:31 THESSALONIKI 12:42-IC 18:18
14:52 20:51 THESSALONIKI 14:54 19:50
Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy 19:29-IC 23:55 THESSALONIKI 16:33 22:46
20:39-IC 01:48 THESSALONIKI 18:50-IC 23:16
Blue Star Ferries Amalias 30, tel. 210 8919800, 23:59-SL 06:59 THESSALONIKI 22:59-SL 5:46
bluestarferries@bluestarferries.com, www.bluestarfer-
ries.com. Ferry connections from Piraeus to Cyclades and
Dodekanese To
From THESSALONIKI
THESSALONIKI
Hellenic Seaways , tel. 210 4199000, www.helle- Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
nicseaways.gr. High speed ferry connections to the Saronic ALEXANDROU-
07:24-SL 13:14 POLI 08:34SL 15:06
islands and Cyclades
ALEXANDROU-
15:48-SL 22:22 POLI 19:19-SL 0:01
Minoan Lines 25th August St. 17, Heraklion, Crete, tel.
210 4145700, info@minoan.gr, www.minoan.gr. Ferry
connections between Piraeus - Crete and Greece - Italy
Attica Panepistimiou 9, City Link, MSyntagma, tel. Electronics, Computers & Gadgets
211 1802600, fax 211 1802698, www.atticadps.gr.
Upmarket department store,the biggest in the city. All top Germanos, www.germanos.gr. There is a branch on
brands priced accordingly. every other corner. Here you can change batteries and repair
and buy every brand of mobile phone.
Hondos Center Ermou 39, Ippokratous 3, Omonia Plaisio, www.plaisio.gr. The largest computer and office
Sq 4, Merlin 6, www.hondoscenter.gr. Designer brands supply chain.-Stournari 19 & 24, F1-Zaimi 10, F1-Voulis 3,
at great prices, cosmetics cheaper than the airport duty Syntagma, F5
free shops, fashion, travel accessories, underwear, Greek Public, www.public.gr. You can’t miss this large store
art souvenirs and everything you expect to find in a top selling computers, gadgets and books: It’s right on Syn-
department store. tagma Sq, G5
T
his new shopping centre is very popular among
Athenians as it is located only a 9 minutes metro
ride from Syntagma square.
85 stores offer all leading brands at very competi-
tive prices. Clothes, shoes, electronics, accessories,
books and everything to cover your shopping needs
while in Athens.
The place is a perfect all-day destination and besides
the shopping experience a visitor can enjoy lunch or
dinner in one of its 18 eateries of all kinds, relax with
coffees and drinks and watch a movie in its five-screen
multiplex.
Its roof-garden boasts amazing sea and sunset views
and stays open until the early hours.
Finally in Athens Metro Mall you will also find a
supermarket, a beauty salon, a play area, a bank and
many other services.
Shopping Hours:
Shops: Mon – Fri.:09:00-21:00 Sat.: 09:00-20:00
Sun.: Closed. Bank: Mon – Fri: 09:00-15:30 Sat-Sun.:
Closed Dining and Entertainment: Mon. – Sun.:09:00
until late
Melissinos, The poet-sandalmaker Agias Theklas 2, Librairie Kauffmann (French Bookshop) Stadiou 28,
Psirri, MMonastiraki, Thissio, tel. 210 3219247, info@ MPanepistimio, Syntagma, tel. 210 3255321, fax 210
melissinos-poet.com, /www.melissinos-poet.com. Fancy 3230320, kauffmann.stadiou@yahoo.gr, www.kauff-
a pair of hand-made ancient Greek sandals made by a world mann.gr. A historic bookshop supplying local francophones
famous...poet? Stavros Melissinos has crafted sandals for since an era when French was the foreign language of choice
celebrities like the Beatles, Jackie Kennedy, Sofia Loren and among educated Greeks.
has featured in newspaper articles all over the world. He runs
his workshop together with his son, an artist. Travel Bookstore Solonos 71, MPanepistimio, tel. 210
3616943, This excellent travel bookshop belongs to the top
National Archaeological Museum Gift Shop Patision Greek cartography company ORAMA Editions, which is our
(28th October) 44, MVictoria, tel. 210 8217724, fax map supplier. A visit here is essential before any excursion to
210 8213573. Recently refurbished and expanded, it offers the countryside, where you’ll have a huge choice between top
a wide selection of replicas of ancient artifacts, as well as a quality maps and travel guides covering every last corner of
comprehensive collection of guide books on ancient Greece. the country and all international maps and travel guides series.
An interesting selection of gift ideas and memorabilia is also If you mention you’re an In Your Pocket reader, the bookshop’s
available. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:00. experienced staff will happily give you an extra discount.
Markets Sweets
Athens Central Market (Varvakeios) Athinas Aristokratikon F5, Karageorgi Servias 9. The city’s
Street (between Evripidou & Sofocleous Streets), premier sweets and pastries emporium, with an extensive
MMonastiraki, Omonia. An extravaganza of sights, smells array of delicious hand-crafted sweets and chocolates, made
and sounds, here you will be treated to a very wide selection with the finest local ingredients.
of spices, herbs, cheeses, olives, meats, fish and all sorts
of gastronomical delights. Take a pick from the wonderful
selection of nuts, herbs and dried fruits - you will be hard Tattoo & Piercing
pressed to find these back home. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Black Rose D4, Pallados 16, Psirri, MMonastiraki,
Closed Sun. tel. (+30) 210 3238610, www.blackroseta2.gr. If you
are up for a permanent souvenir from Athens, then head to
Fruit & Vegetable street markets (Laiki markets) Black Rose, one of the top tattoo and piercing studios in the
Every Athenian neighbourhood has its own open air fruit and centre of the city. Professional art work, safety and hygiene
veg market on a specific day of the week. Licenced produc- are guaranteed.
ers bring their fresh goodies from their farms to the big city
neighbourhoods. Prices start high in the morning but in true
market fashion get really low towards midday.
Traditional Food Products
One of the best and well worth pottering around is in Kal- Gaea Products, www.gaea.gr. Greek traditional prod-
lidromiou St. Exarchia, every Saturday morning. ucts of exceptional quality and many international awards.
Extra virgin olive oil, olives, and dips to take home with
Monastiraki Flea Market Ifestou & surrounding you. Available in large supermarkets and the airport duty
streets, MMonastiraki. It has lost some of its old days free shops.
charm as modern shops have replaced the stalls, but it Mastiha Shop G5, Panepistimiou & Kriezotou and Ath-
remains the absolute Athenian open-air, vibrant, people- ens Airport, www.mastihashop.gr. All mastiha products
packed, shopping/haggling experience. Head here if you brought to you by the association of Chios mastic growers.
are looking for antiques, collectors’ items, vintage clothing, These exclusively Greek product makes the ideal gift to
old music records and books, homeware, leatherwear and bring home if you want to avoid an ‘ouzo power’ t-shirt! Try
souvenirs. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. the natural chewing gum and the sweet liquor. A full range
of natural cosmetics is also available.
Mesogaia Hamosternas 14, Kato Petralona. Delica-
Natural Cosmetics tessen selling delicious local speciality foods from around
Apivita G4, Solonos 26, Kolonaki, www.apivita.com. Greece, such as extra-virgin olive oil, the local spirit, “raki”,
A full series of natural cosmetics produced with propolis, a diverse array of cheeses and a fragrant selection of
honey, royal jelly, rosemary, green tea and fruits. Greek prod- wild herbs.
ucts that make perfect gifts for anyone back home.
Korres, www.korres.com. Started as a homeopathic
pharmacy, Korres now produces more than 500 skin and
hair care herbal products, sold in more than 30 countries.
Greek women love them as they are 100% natural.
Second hand
American Markets . Ermou 30, D5, 2nd floor tel. 210
3217870, Ermou 48, D5, 1st flor tel. 210 3215740,
Sofokleous 19, E3, 1st floor tel. 210 3217051
Yesterday’s Bread Kallidromiou 87, Exarchia, tel.
210 8811233. Imported second hand clothes.
Shoes
Camper Ermou 34, MSyntagma, tel. 210 3216709.
The world’s grooviest shoes!
Kalogirou H5, Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Kolonaki. The ul-
timate fashionable shoe shop, with top international labels
as well as its own-brand discerning designs. A must-visit
destination for all shoe afficionados.
Supermarkets
AB Vassilopoulos www.ab.gr. Supermarkets are
rare in downtown Athens, they tend to concentrate in
residential areas. Some central branches of the best
supermarket chain AB Vassilopoulos can be found at the
following addresses:
-Vouliagmenis 67 & Menonos, Mets, F8
-Marni 24, E1 -Spyrou Merkouri 38, Pangrati, J6 -Keiria-
don & Sfiton, Petralona, A6 -Mavromichali 157 & Digeni
Akrita, I1
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
SOL SA Fokionos Negri 3, tel. 210 8691100, www. International School of Athens (ISA) Xenias &
solae.gr. The largest Greek accounting & auditing firm with Artemidos, Kefalari, Kifissia, tel. 210 6233888, info@
offices all over the country isa.edu.gr, www.isa.edu.gr
British Council Kolonaki Sq, MSyntagma, Evange- Polish Community School Navarinou 19, Holargos,
lismos, tel. 210 3692333, fax 210 3634769, www. tel. 210 6538204.
britishcouncil.gr.
St Catherine’s British Embassy School Sofokli
Cervantes Institute Skoufa 31, tel. 210 3634117, fax Venizelou 73, Kifisia, tel. 210 2829750, administrator@
210 3647233, dirate@cervantes.es. stcatherines.gr, www.stcatherines.gr.
Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou Sq, MAmpelokipi, Learn Greek online: It’s free!
tel. 210 6432220. www.ellinika.org
Iaso Kifisias 37-39, tel. 210 6184000. www.xanthi.ilsp.gr/filog
Leto Mouson 7-13, tel. 210 6902000.
Mitera Ki fisias 7 Eri throu Stavrou 6, tel. 210
6899421. Emergency numbers
Aiport Police 210 3536919.
Removals Ambulance 166.
Mondial Forwarding Hellas 20th km National road Coast Guard 108.
Athens-Korinthos, Elefsina, tel. 210 5540907, www.
mondialtransport.com. E L PA ( r o a d s i d e a s s i s t a n c e )
Orphee Beinoglou Syngrou & Evripidou 2, Kallithea,
10400.
tel. 210 9466100, www.beinoglou.gr. Fire Service 199.
Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info
Sailing Charter Companies 14944.
Kiriakoulis Mediterranean Alimou 7, Alimos, tel. 210 Police 100.
9886187-91, fax 210 9818979, charter@kiriacoulis.
com, www.kiriacoulis.com. SOS Doctors 1016.
Tourist Police 171.
Vernicos Yachts Poseidonos 11, Alimos, tel. 210
9896000, fax 210 9850130, info@vernicos.gr, www. Traffic Police 210 5230111.
vernicos.com.
athens@inyourpocket.com
Athens In Your Pocket athens.inyourpocket.com