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хладно пушење ,
топло пушење (што је такође ниско и споро роштиљ или директно
топлотно димљење)
суво очвршћавање
Ваша е-п П Р Е Т П Л АТ И Т И С Е S U B S C R I B E
Људи питају када пробају моје суво месо, „да ли је димљено?“ . Врло
често људи мисле да је димљење меса, посебно хладно димљеног,
исто што и суво месо (и јесте и није).
Када сам почео да сушим месо, посебно суво месо. Почео сам да
читам књиге и научио сам много од неких италијанских пријатеља и
онлајн форума. Проводим превише времена дружећи се са Артисан
месарима. Вожња кругова по Италији месецима је такође била
инспиративна!
Након што сам се поиграо са тим, желео сам да обезбедим ресурс за
друге људе да науче о овом старошколском начину 'изједначавања'
укуса меса, али користећи проверене модерне технике за постизање
доследних резултата. (такође велики љубитељ кисељења -
Сканданавија је веома добра у томе).
Dry Curing meat is about following a method, but as many say it is a craft
and it involves some alchemy and accuracy I think (although there is a
traditional way which isn’t about accuracy too, it’s a bit hit and miss –
saturation or saltbox method).
So I thought it’s best to go over the important aspects next, and the
technique (equilibrium curing) that leads to decent/consistent outcomes –
that you can crank out and tastes amazing!
Important Aspects
But there are some tricks I’ve learned along the way.
You want a slightly moist environment and coolish – with a bit of air
exchange or airflow (technically 1 m/s)
So the meat dries out inside, and if the humidity is too high, the outside
goes hard (for short term like normal fridge curing, this doesn’t matter –
case hardening it’s called often)
Or you can try some dry-curing in your existing normal fridge, it’s probably
the best thing to start with and if you become interested, then you can
explore the dedicated curing chamber.
You can just buy a hygrometer gauge if you want to find out accurately what
level you have around home.
Process of Dry Curing at Home
Especially if you are starting off with projects in your normal kitchen fridge.
You get more precision and therefore you’ll get better outcomes. The salt
box method can always be a bit hit and miss. Due to the variations in the
meat cuts and how much you roll around the meat in the salt.
So all you’re doing is having a pan or tray with salt, curing salt, and spices.
Then you coat the meat and roll it around in the mixture. Then place it in a
‘box’ Ziploc bag to be cured in the fridge or a place with a fridge-like
temperature.
The salt box method is covering the whole meat with salt and leaving it for a
certain amount of days based on the weight.
Traditional whole cured prosciutto hams of Italy, you can see the shape from
the pressure applied during the curing process.
I apply pressure also with regular fridge equilibrium curing to speed up the
curing.
I have no idea when the equilibrium curing process came out. I first read
about it on the cured meat blog site mentioned. I would probably guess it’s
already used widely in commercial curing.
The way it works is a percentage of salt to the total weight of the meat.
From what I have found you want to use under 200g of weight for fridge
curing projects with an unmodified regular fridge. Also, you don’t really want
too much fat on the piece of meat, because that takes much longer to dry
out.
I experienced this when I tried to have a nice pork loin with a decent fat
streak, I tried to cure it in my normal kitchen fridge with some other cured
recipes I was doing, including a Hungarian smoked paprika pork loin,
Spanish Chorizo style and Beef, Juniper. Garlic & Thyme as I had done
before.
I ended up having to start up the big curing chamber and it took an extra
three weeks to my surprise. The other beef and pork cuts were ready in 4-6
days in the normal kitchen fridge.
I think this is a step in itself because using sodium nitrates and nitrites you
should be careful with.
Now I’m not going to get into the details of nitrates, the empirical scientific
evidence I have done has shown it’s nothing to be concerned about, as has
been confirmed around the web, there is plenty of nitrates in our bodies, and
heaps in spinach and many greens, much more than consuming moderate
amounts of cured meats.
When it comes to doing equilibrium curing, it’s really important to make sure
all the cure is put onto the meat I do this in a little mixing bowl or the Ziploc
bag.
When you’re doing the salt box method you would just need to make sure
the pink curing salt is evenly mixed through the salt box before you use it.
Some guys I found on social media like to use a vacuum pack for the curing
process, if you are leaving it in the fridge for longer periods of time then this
can mean it doesn’t matter if you forget about it for a week or two longer.
When you use a Ziploc bag, I find the best technique is to really squeeze all
the air out and leave one part of the Ziploc open so that pretty much all that
air gets squeezed out before zipping shut.
Saltbox Method
In Ruhlman’s book Salumi, he said the general guide is one day per 2
pounds /1 kg of meat weight. This is the basic method that has been used
for a very long time. For larger meat projects in a curing chamber.
If you were using the salt box method for regular fridge curing, you can
leave the meat in a salt cure for say 24 hours, but you may find the final
product to be too salty in my experience. Duck prosciutto is used for 24-hour
salt-curing for instance.
For equilibrium curing, I have found that less than 200 g of weight will
work best in a normal fridge, it should only take about 4 to 7 days. The meat
will be fully cured.
If you want to get a bit fancy, some recipes from Ruhlman’s Salumi suggest
rinsing off with wine. I have yet to try this, I prefer my wine consumed orally.
Now would be the time if you want to add another layer of flavor on the
outside, you can do this by making a spice blend.
Black pepper crushed at this point also can help the antibacterial side of it
because it has antibacterial properties.
Once you get the current weight just multiply this by 0.65 to get the target
weight. You won’t want to eat it until this target weight has been hit and it’s
dry enough to eat (preserved per se, and dried enough for wafer thin-slicing!
So for a 200-gram piece, 65% = 130 grams – once this is reached that it’s
ready!
Now I just use a little cut piece of cardboard, but you can use a label printer
or anything that you put a hole through. Then record what it is and the
finished weight (date is also optional). You just tie this on over the muslin if
you are wrapping it.
I do like to use the butchers’ twine to squeeze the cured piece of meat,
which can help the drying process a bit more. It also is quite aesthetically
pleasing to look at if you tie it uniformly.
There are also many types of casings and bungs, which are intestines or
stomachs of animals that work really well as well.
You can’t really adjust the humidity at all in your regular fridge. But the
temperature is cool enough to prevent any bad bacteria so short-term dry-
cured meat creation can be done.
Now here is a trick for a hanging system at the back of the fridge.
It’s a piece of measured wood to fit into the shelf holders & some hooks. I
then can hang the meat at the back of the fridge so that it doesn’t touch
anything.
Of course, there are many ways of creating this hanging system
Cellar
If you have a cold enough winter and around 11-15°C all 50-60°F, then you
can use this environment to try dry-curing some meat. I would recommend
that you check out the humidity, so you know roughly what it does.
Don’t expect every project to go perfect in an open area or cellar, there are
so many more factors can be at play if you are hanging in an exposed area.
Wrapping with muslin cloth is really important if you are going to roll the dice
with this method.
For this environment generally, you’ll be working around 70% humidity and
11°C/50°F. This is usually the accepted whole muscle Salumi or dry-cured
setting temperature setting. But sometimes this needs to be varied
depending on the project.
Most of the time, once dry-cured meats projects have been done, the curing
chamber starts growing a culture of good penicillin white powdery bacteria.
It’s invisible and you don’t see it but it’s there and it helps with all the
projects.
I guess the same in the giant Parma ham manufacturing facilities they must
have a huge amount of good penicillin bacteria growing. Because they have
thousands of hams hanging at any given time.
The key to successfully dry curing meat and getting extraordinary flavors
from quality meat is following a process accurately. So it’s a super long
article, but I feel it needs to be since this is more advanced than frying an
egg!
The world of cured meats is massive, not just in the Italian classic Salumi
but all across the world. I did a post on 50 different types of cured meats.
This wasn’t strictly dry-cured meats, but it just gives you some idea of
what’s out there. If you want to have a read of these examples of cured
meats there are some interesting discoveries when I research this (the goal
is to try all of them at least once!), check them out here.
When I learned about Parma Ham, which is probably seen as the king of
any dry-cured meats for many. I found out that they only use two
ingredients, a specific bred of quality pork and sea salt (other ingredients =
time, patience, craftsmanship & a minimum of 12 months humidity &
temperature that has a favorable environment.
They have some kind of special approval based on strict guidelines and do
not use any nitrates. Possibly there are natural nitrates and other minerals
already in the sea salt that use – for hundreds and hundreds of years help
too.
The key for dry-cured meat is to use sea salt that does not have additives,
anti-caking agents, or iodine.
So that means sea salt or kosher salt works really well. Trapani salt is very
popular in dry-curing communities as a go-to salt.
There are so many different brands and shapes of salt. Because different
salt shapes & brands have different volumes.
If you do the equilibrium curing method, accurate scales are probably the
most important equipment because you are going to be dealing with very
small amounts of salt, spices & nitrates.
No. 1 is:
93.75% salt
6.25% sodium nitrite
Pink Curing Salt No. 2 for long-term cured meats, prosciutto, Lonza,
dry-cured salami, etc.
The nitrates slowly break down over time into nitrites, so by the time (weeks
or months) the transition has occurred, there aren’t any nitrates left in the
meat. Simple!
No.2 is:
Click here if you want to read more about pink curing salt. I’ve often decided
to leave pink curing salt out, if I am going to cook at high temperatures, like
dry cured bacon. Do your own research!
In Summary,
Pink curing salt is always added at a ratio of 0.25% to the total weight
of the meat when doing equilibrium curing. Some instructions/directions
go down to 0.2%.
This is a very small amount, so this is why accurate scales pay dividends.
For example, if the meat weighs 1000 g, I would add 2.5 g of curing salt. If
this was pancetta then I would also be using, for example, 2.5% sea salt for
equilibrium curing to suit my taste preference (2% salt min for fully curing is
my rule).
To make sure there is no chance of bad bacteria like botulism growing, pink
curing salt 2. is the one to be used.
So this is where the accurate kitchen scales that go to 0.X or 0.XX really
becomes handy.
For dry-cured meat projects that I put in my regular kitchen fridge, I have
found that wrapping these can help to slow the drying out on the outside of
the meat before hitting the target final weight.
Most normal fridges run at about 30-50% humidity level. Compared to a DIY
curing chamber which will be set at 60-70% humidity level most of the time.
Muslin helps when you wrap it around the meat to hold some of the
moisture and stop the outside from going hard. The term used is case
hardening, and when this starts to happen, you may have meat that is dried
on the outside but still moist on the inside.
Many dry-curing enthusiasts have this ‘case hardening’ issue. The easiest
way to fix it is to vacuum pack the meat after it has hit the target weight. The
moisture in the meat will equalize inside the vacuum-packed environment;
you just put it in the fridge for a week or two.
For regular fridge dry curing, you generally won’t get to the stage of case
hardening, it will have to reach the target weight and hopefully be consumed
way before it happens!
The salt and spices become a kind of powder, which works really well with
equilibrium curing.
Or if you want to use a bit of arm work, a mortar and pestle work, but you
have to really grind it up.
For a few grinding tools, I wrote a page (near the bottom) about the ones I
like here.
Like any type of cooking when it comes to dry-cured meats and curing
meats, you have to use your senses and some common sense to work out
what’s going on.
There is a certain type of pleasant smell you get from the penicillin or
powdery white mold that is on cured meats. This is a good sign, it protects
the meat from foreign bodies.
Although this won’t be something you come across with short-term curing in
a normal fridge, it takes a few weeks normally.
But it basically comes down to trusting your nose because it was designed
to tell you when things are edible or not edible I think.
You always want to avoid any air pockets inside the meat, but when starting
off with dry-cured meat, you just stick with whole pieces of muscle which
means you don’t have these challenges.
For rolled pancetta, you need a bit more technique to get the meat really
tight.
Rolled pancetta is awesome, on a facebook group, I saw someone using
zip-ties to really get a rolled pancetta tight. Then they tied it with twine & cut
the zip-ties, smart thinking, or there is a sneaky tying technique that works
with butchers twine (I prefer to not use single-use plastic ties, at least twine
is a natural product)
You can get pretty fancy with tying for presentation, and it does add a lot to
visual appeal. Tying is really useful if you’re using muslin to protect the
meat.
Here is a link to the butchers’ twine I buy – 500 ft last a long time!
Duck prosciutto is probably the easiest type of dry-cured product you can
do. Although, I think simple pancetta which is also easily done in a normal
fridge is super straightforward.
I have used different types of wild duck which haven’t been as successful as
farmed varieties but I guess it just depends on your tastes. Wild venison has
worked great.
The weight of the duck prosciutto or small pieces of pork belly definitely
suits a normal fridge curing process. Although, I’ve used beef steak or under
200 g pork loins. All of these came out really amazing and have become a
regular in my repertoire.
Optional Spices for Duck- 1 clove, 1/3 cinnamon stick, orange zest,
0.5% pepper
Option Spices for Beef 1% garlic, 1% sweet bay leaf, 0.5% juniper berry
Optional Spices for Pork 0.5% pepper, 0.5% juniper, 0.5% nutmeg
With an extended spice mix, it can be good to really make the spices fine,
that’s where a spice grinder can be super useful.
The classic bresaola has many spices and the main flavor from cinnamon
and nutmeg. I use this spice mix with great success using my harvested wild
game or any other type of red meat.
Here’s a breakdown of the percentage of spices that I use for this bresaola-
style dry-cured meat. Don’t get too hung up on the spices, if you are missing
a few, it will still taste awesome!
Recipe Breakdown
In regards to dry-cured meat, as long as the outside has not hardened, it will
last weeks. If the meat is fully dry-cured, as long as you keep it in the
condition it prefers ie. 70-80% humidity or 11°C/50°F, it has the potential for
many months of storage.
It will dry out more, however. More fat in the meat will slow this process
since it contained a lot less moisture.
Vacpac and putting in your fridge, it can last years and get better with flavor!
Just take it out and slice up whenever you are craving it
In Italy, it’s just incredible to see all the dry-cured meat just hanging in the
deli or store. And regularly in home fridges whole chunks, ready to be sliced
up for antipasti (in the US that’s a charcuterie board and in the 1980’s I
believe it was called a meat and cheese board!) before dinner, I miss living
in Italy!
Thinly Slicing Dry Cured Meat
I wrote a post on slicing, it can make a huge difference. Tried quite a few
knives, and this guide goes over a lot about wafer thin-slicing! Please find
that post here.
Additional Resources:
How to Cure / Brine Bacon at Home
List of Dry Curing Recipes from Honest Food, Mr Hank
Detailed Guide on normal fridge small meat curing / dry curing
Related Questions
Fully salt curing the meat with salt is the first step with either the saltbox or
equilibrium method. Depending on the size, dry curing can be done in a
normal fridge. Other options generally used are a curing chamber or a
protected cellar area.
30 minutes to 30 days, largely depending on the cured meat project. For salt
curing meat such as fish and seafood. This can be done in 30 minutes in a
salt cure brine. For saltbox curing a prosciutto leg, it can take 30 days.
The drying stage can take months or years! Good things take time!
Guide to Drying and Curing Meat at Home in Detail
Tom Mueller
Thanks for dropping by, I’ve been passionate about meat curing for
decades.
I Hunt, Fish, Forage, Buy, Butcher (Wannabe Norcini), Make, Savor (I’m not
a Saviour), and love curing and smoking meat.
Учећи и конзумирајући на кружни начин, увек ме занима шта се дешава у свету лечења и
пушења
Да хвала!