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THE PALGRAVE HANDBOOK
OF LITERARY TRANSLATION
Edited by
Jean Boase-Beier, Lina Fisher and Hiroko Furukawa
Palgrave Studies in Translating and Interpreting
Series Editor
Margaret Rogers
School of Literature and Languages
University of Surrey
Guildford, UK
This series examines the crucial role which translation and interpreting in their
myriad forms play at all levels of communication in today’s world, from the
local to the global. Whilst this role is being increasingly recognised in some
quarters (for example, through European Union legislation), in others it remains
controversial for economic, political and social reasons. The rapidly changing
landscape of translation and interpreting practice is accompanied by equally
challenging developments in their academic study, often in an interdisciplinary
framework and increasingly reflecting commonalities between what were once
considered to be separate disciplines. The books in this series address specific
issues in both translation and interpreting with the aim not only of charting but
also of shaping the discipline with respect to contemporary practice and research.
The Palgrave
Handbook of Literary
Translation
Editors
Jean Boase-Beier Lina Fisher
School of Literature, Drama and Creative Independent Scholar
Writing Norwich, UK
University of East Anglia
Norwich, UK
Hiroko Furukawa
Department of English
Tohoku Gakuin University
Sendai, Japan
This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by the registered company Springer International Publishing AG
part of Springer Nature.
The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland
Preface
v
vi Preface
ix
x Acknowledgments
the Ireland and Catalonia panel at the Annual Conference of the Association
of Hispanists of Great Britain and Ireland, held at NUI Galway, April 2014;
for their assistance in accessing archival material, Regina Whelan Richardson
and Ciara Joyce of Maynooth University Library, Charles Harrowell of Senate
House Library, University of London, Montserrat Caba of the Centre de
Documentació i Estudi Salvador Espriu, and the special collections staff of the
Biblioteca de Catalunya and the British Library.
Contents
I ntroduction 1
Jean Boase-Beier, Lina Fisher, and Hiroko Furukawa
Translating the Poetry of Nelly Sachs 21
Jean Boase-Beier
The Poetry of Gerrit Achterberg: A Translation Problem? 39
Antoinette Fawcett
Stylistic Choices in the Japanese Translations of Crime
and Punishment 63
Hiroko Cockerill
Translating Voices in Crime Fiction: The Case of the French
Translation of Brookmyre’s Quite Ugly One Morning 125
Charlotte Bosseaux
xi
xii Contents
The Case of Natascha Wodin’s Autobiographical Novels: A Corpus-
Stylistics Approach 145
Marion Winters
Hysteresis of Translatorial Habitus: A Case Study of Aziz Üstel’s
Turkish Translation of A Clockwork Orange 167
Hilal Erkazanci Durmuş
Transcreating Memes: Translating Chinese Concrete Poetry 187
Tong King Lee and Steven Wing-Kit Chan
Angst and Repetition in Danish Literature and Its Translation:
From Kierkegaard to Kristensen and Høeg 251
Kirsten Malmkjær
‘The Isle Is Full of Noises’: Italian Voices in Strehler’s La Tempesta 269
Manuela Perteghella
Biography as Network-Building: James S. Holmes and Dutch-
English Poetry Translation 309
Francis R. Jones
“Out of the Marvellous” as I Have Known It: Translating Heaney’s
Poetry 377
Marco Sonzogni
Border Writing in Translation: The Spanish Translations of Woman
Hollering Creek by the Chicana Writer Sandra Cisneros 427
Penelope Johnson
Cheating on Murasaki Shikibu: (In)fidelity, Politics, and the Quest
for an Authoritative Post-war Genji Translation 443
Matthew Chozick
Post-1945 Austrian Literature in Translation: Ingeborg
Bachmann in English 463
Lina Fisher
Divorce Already?! Should Israelis Read the Tanakh (Bible)
in Translation? 483
Dror Abend-David
Translators of Catalan as Activists During the Franco Dictatorship 517
Richard Mansell
onclusion 535
C
Jean Boase-Beier, Lina Fisher, and Hiroko Furukawa
Index 543
Notes on Contributors
xv
xvi Notes on Contributors
subjects, for example linguistics, philosophy and language learning, and in the rela-
tionship between translation and creativity. Recent publications include the Routledge
Handbook of Translation Studies and Linguistics (ed.) and the collection of articles, Key
Cultural Texts in Translation (John Benjamins), co-edited with Adriana Serban and
Fransiska Louwagie.
Richard Mansell is Senior Lecturer in Translation at the University of Exeter, where
he joined the Department of Modern Languages in 2006. He has worked as a profes-
sional translator from Spanish and Catalan into English, and has also collaborated on
translations of Shakespeare into Catalan for the stage. His research focuses on two
areas: firstly, he takes a keen interest in translators and their networks, and how their
various activities intertwine, especially from a historical perspective; secondly, he
studies various aspects of the market for translated fiction in Anglophone territories,
and the roles of different members of the translation community.
Manuela Perteghella is a translator, researcher and curator. She has published
research in the field of literary and theatre translation, promoting the theory of transla-
tion as a creative and critical practice (Translation and Creativity, Continuum 2006;
One Poem in Search of a Translator, Peter Lang 2008; Staging and Performing Translation,
Palgrave 2011). She has taught translation at UK universities, and worked for various
theatre companies as administrator, script reader, translator and stage manager. She is
co-curator of TransARTation! Wandering Texts, Travelling Objects (2017) and
TalkingTransformations: Home on the Move (2018). http://transartation.co.uk/exhi-
bition/, http://www.talkingtransformations.eu/
Marco Sonzogni is Reader in Translation Studies in the School of Languages and
Cultures at the Victoria University of Wellington. He is a widely-published and
award-winning scholar, poet, literary translator and editor. His research is centred on
the work of two Nobel Laureate poets: Eugenio Montale (1896–1981) and Seamus
Heaney (1939–2013). He holds an Order of Merit from the Italian Government
(OMRI) for services to culture.
Philip Wilson is Honorary Research Fellow in the School of Politics, Philosophy,
Language and Communication Studies at the University of East Anglia, where he
teaches literature and philosophy. Publications include the edited collection Literary
Translation: Re-drawing the Boundaries (with Jean Boase-Beier and Antoinette
Fawcett, Palgrave Macmillan 2014), the monograph Translation after Wittgenstein
(Routledge 2015) and the translated anthology The Bright Rose (Arc 2015).
Forthcoming are The Routledge Handbook of Translation Studies and Philosophy (with
Piers Rawling, Routledge), The Norwich Histories of Alexander Neville (with Ingrid
Walton and Clive Wilkins-Jones, Boydell) and Simone Weil’s Venice Saved (with
Silvia Panizza, Bloomsbury).
Marion Winters is Senior Lecturer in Translation Studies at Heriot-Watt University,
Edinburgh, Scotland. She is founding editor of New Voices in Translation Studies,
xx Notes on Contributors
xxi
xxii List of Figures
xxiii
xxiv List of Tables
J. Boase-Beier (*)
School of Literature, Drama and Creative Writing,
University of East Anglia, Norwich, UK
e-mail: j.boase-beier@uea.ac.uk
L. Fisher
Independent Scholar, Norwich, UK
H. Furukawa
Department of English, Tohoku Gakuin University, Sendai, Japan
e-mail: f.hiroko@mail.tohoku-gakuin.ac.jp
Van den Broeck had first written his Introduction to the re-printed versions
of Holmes’ essays in 1988, and this was more than 15 years after Holmes set
his thoughts down, doing so at a time when the interactions between
universities in Holland and Belgium and other countries, notably Israel, were
just beginning to develop. It is not our intention to trace those developments
further here: the reader can find out more about the particular networks in
which Holmes was involved by reading the chapter “Biography as Network-
Building: James S. Holmes and Dutch-English Poetry Translation” in this
Handbook, where Holmes himself is the subject of a case study by Francis
R. Jones. There are also several useful overviews of Literary Translation,
including both its earlier manifestations (see e.g. Robinson 2002) and its
more recent developments (see e.g. Munday 2016).
What we would like to focus on here is the central importance of the way
theory and practice interact, because it is on the basis of this interaction that
we can understand the value of individual case studies, such as those collected
in this volume, in illustrating the many different aspects of Literary Translation.
Strictly speaking, we should say that the case studies have been previously
conducted by each researcher, and that what we can read in this book are
reports on them. We present these reports on case study research as a way of
allowing the reader to gain insight into different aspects of the theory-practice
relationship in Literary Translation. It would, however, be overly pedantic to
insist on the distinction between a case study as that which is carried out by a
researcher and a report as that which is presented in written form, and we
shall use the term “case study” to refer to both.
It would be simplistic to say that theories, whether in translation or anywhere
else, arise out of principles that derive from practice. Principles can indeed be
derived, and developed into theories, in this way. But it is also the case that
whatever initial theories a practitioner holds will themselves inform the transla-
tion practices from which principles are later derived by the translator or by
scholars analyzing the translator’s practice. In other words, practices do not just
happen: they result from theories, however preliminary and unformed those
theories might be. A theory is a mental picture of the world, and translators, like
anyone else, have such pictures in their minds before they embark upon prac-
tice, and they develop them, test them, refine them, formulate them, as the
mental picture comes up against elements of practice and is measured against
them (see Boase-Beier 2011: 75–7).
Theory and practice, then, determine each other. As we said above, the
first clear formulation of the discipline of Translation Studies was made by
Holmes on the basis of a particularly close interaction between theory and
Introduction 3
practice specifically in the translation of literary texts. This was in part coin-
cidental: Holmes happened to be a poet and poetry translator, and he hap-
pened to be interested in systematizing what he found to be important in the
translation of poetry, as his collected essays (Holmes 1994) demonstrate. But
in part it is perhaps not coincidental, for it is also true to say, as Maria
Tymoczko does, that the translation of literary texts serves as a useful model
for translation theory more generally, because there is no “body of texts (…)
that is as large, as complex and as representative of cross-cultural textual
practices as the body of literary works created by human beings” (Tymoczko
2014: 14). A third reason for the central role that literary works have played
in the development of translation theory becomes apparent when we take
into account the views of cognitive poetics scholars such as Mark Turner
(1996: 4–5), who maintain that the mind is inherently literary, since the
ability to use metaphor, or to be ambiguous, or to reflect what we say in how
we say it (a literary device known as iconicity), are fundamental to all human
thought. In this view, the human mind is by nature a “literary mind” (see
Boase-Beier 2015: 85–97).
Notwithstanding the importance, for all these reasons, of the translation of
literary texts in the development of Translation Studies, we would not wish to
maintain that all translation is literary translation. Intuitively, one would not
want to say that the translation of a weather report, the interpretation of a
witness statement in court, or a translation of the leaflet supplied with a medi-
cation, were instances of literary translation.
Defining what constitutes a literary text is not easy, but there are three
qualities that we might reasonably expect literary texts to have. We might
assume that they are fictional. We might expect them to employ what are
generally considered to be literary devices, such as rhyme or ambiguity, to a
greater degree than non-literary texts, even if the mental equivalents of such
literary devices are indeed fundamental to our thinking. And we might wish
to consider as literary a text that has the potential to have particular cognitive
effects on its readers: giving rise to emotions such as grief, sadness, anger or
empathy, causing pleasure, or helping one to order one’s thoughts about a
situation or entity which is not actually present (see Richards 1970: 28–3;
Pilkington 2000: 116; Boase-Beier 2011: 38). And yet, straightforward as it
might seem to define “literary text” on this basis, we must bear in mind that
all these qualities might be found in texts we would not want to consider
literary: news might be fictional, advertisements might use rhyme, reports on
government spending might provoke anger.
4 J. Boase-Beier et al.
The term “Literary Translation” does not only refer to a discipline, however.
When written without the capital letters, it refers to either or both of the
practices the discipline concerns itself with: the translating of literary texts, or
the translating of any texts in a literary way.
What is interesting about case studies in Literary Translation used as a
research method is that they always combine literary translation as a practice
(of either type) with Literary Translation as a discipline that describes and
examines that practice. They are descriptive studies grounded in the actual
facts of translation, and are at the same time a useful tool in the formation of
theories.
We said above that theories are views of the world. But it could be argued
that not just any view qualifies as a theory. As Tymoczko (2014: 12) points
out, there are several definitions of the word “theory”; she maintains that
the most useful for Translation Studies is the technical term, whereby a
theory is a confirmed or accepted statement of generalized principles, rather
than the less strict sense of a mere conjecture or speculation. We might add
to this view the suggestion that a theory is a set of principles for which one
can put forward reasonable evidence. Theories can provide answers to
research questions, and they are adjusted when the answers they provide
seem unsatisfactory, either because other theories interact with them and
suggest alternative ways of seeing the world, or because they are confronted
with new data that cannot properly be explained by the theory as it stands
(See also Boase-Beier 2011: 73–75).
When we do research of any type in the area of Literary Translation, we
need to be aware of the ways in which our practical examples interact with the
theory, and individual case studies can provide detailed areas of description
that allow us to examine exactly this interaction. Thus, for example, we see
how feminist translation theory interacts with both the description and,
potentially, with the practice of translation, in the chapter “A De-feminized
Woman in Conan Doyle’s The Yellow Face”, where Hiroko Furukawa discusses
the translation of female speech into Japanese, or, in the chapter “Translation,
World Literature, Postcolonial Identity”, how Paul F. Bandia’s discussion
addresses the interaction of postcolonial theory with the description and anal-
ysis of the way texts by African writers are translated.
Because Literary Translation is a particularly interdisciplinary area of
research, drawing on other disciplines such as Linguistics, Stylistics,
Comparative Literature, and Literary Criticism, it is not only inevitable that
it will often take over methods and strategies from these other disciplines,
but the fact that it does so strengthens and enhances it. In a book that specifi-
cally addresses the way Literary Translation crosses disciplinary boundaries
6 J. Boase-Beier et al.
‘Many, if not most of these men,’ he says, ‘are very indifferent characters. They
are mostly swaggering bullies, robbing, plundering, and ill-treating the people with
impunity. Probably for every pound that reaches the Treasury they rob an equal
amount from the people. They are a constant menace to public tranquillity, and
before any amelioration can be expected they must be got rid of. As soldiers they
are valueless, having no discipline, nor, except in talk, do they exhibit any
extraordinary courage. Compared with that of negroes and Egyptians their pay is
high.’
No one whose lot it has been to travel through the night on the
plains of a tropical country can forget the amazing effect produced
when the sun, with one great leap, as it seems, springs clear above
the horizon. All in a moment the world’s face is altered. Its features
are the same, yet utterly changed. The traveller, however hardened,
can scarcely fail to wonder at the transformation. A journey to the
Soudan to-day produces a very similar impression on one whose
mind is full of the memories of the dark past. The din of battle has
hardly ceased to echo, but the transformation is complete.
Even after Egypt, with all its fascinations, rich with the remains of
ages of civilization, full to the brim of questions and problems deeply
interesting to the student of history, archæology, politics, or
economics, the Soudan, with its triple capital, Khartoum, Omdurman,
Halfaya, comes upon you with a freshness and charm that are
indescribable. Travelling by the ordinary methods, you may go from
Alexandria to Khartoum in about six days. It is well worth while, even
for anyone who has been up and down the whole length of Egypt, to
take the whole journey in one piece. There is all the excitement of
starting for a new country, and at the same time an opportunity to
gather into a focus all the old impressions. Easily and smoothly you
swing through the fertile cotton-fields of the Delta, and its populous
cities and villages, prosperous but dirty, and at Cairo you settle down
into a most comfortable sleeping-car for the night journey to Luxor.
Early next morning you are in the cane-fields of Upper Egypt, with
the river close on one side and the desert on the other. At Luxor you
must change on to the narrow gauge for Assouan, and there is time
to refresh yourself with bath and breakfast, and to look across at the
Plain of Thebes and the Valley of the Tombs of the Kings, or to ride a
donkey out to Karnak. From Luxor to Assouan it is hot and dusty
enough, and you are glad to rest there for the night. Next day you
embark at Shellal, above the Dam, for Wadi Halfa, a voyage of some
200 miles. Coming down, the steamers do it in about twenty-four
hours, but upstream it is a leisurely voyage of three days. There is
plenty of time to see the interesting antiquities of Nubia, and, above
all, the famous rock-hewn temple of Abu Simbel, the colossal statues
of which are, perhaps, the most impressive of all the monuments of
Egypt. It is, besides, a most beautiful reach of the river; the hills
come down to the water in bold and rugged outlines, showing to
perfection in the pure, dry, desert air.
The effect of the Dam is clearly seen as far as Korosko. First of
all, at Shellal the boat is moored amid a grove of palm-trees, the
temples of Philæ are knee-deep in water, and the Nubian villages
look quaint enough as they stand on the edge of the desert, forlornly
mourning their strip of cultivated land, most of which the greedy
Reservoir has swallowed up. Probably a great part of these people
will now migrate to Dongola, but the loss of the land—for which,
indeed, compensation has been paid—is really a small matter to
them. Hardly anywhere is an able-bodied male to be seen; all are
away making their living as sailors or servants elsewhere, leaving
the women and old men to keep their homes. These Nubian
boatmen are a most happy and thrifty people, ready to work all day
and dance all night, always to the accompaniment of a song.
The boundary between Egypt and the Soudan, settled by the
Convention of 1899, runs along the twenty-second parallel; not far
beyond this is the frontier town of Halfa. There is no mistaking the
signs of British rule. The whole place is rigidly clean, an
extraordinary contrast to the filth of the Egyptian villages. The streets
are well laid out and scrupulously swept, and shady avenues of trees
are springing up. But at present Halfa is not particularly interesting,
except as the railway terminus of the Soudan. It is twenty-eight hours
to Khartoum. Nothing can be more comfortable than the well-
appointed sleeping-car train, which runs twice a week. Starting at
eight in the evening, you strike right across the Nubian Desert, most
desolate and forlorn of countries. The very stations have no names,
but are known merely by their numbers.
In the morning you come to Abu Hamed, back to the Nile once
more. Abu Hamed is just at the elbow of the river, where it turns to
the west for its great circuit by Merowe and Dongola. Here was the
scene of one of the stiffest fights in the Soudan Campaign, when
General Hunter made his dash from Korti, in 1897, further down the
Nile, to seize the point for which the new railway was making from
Wadi Halfa, and here are the graves of Fitzclarence and Sidney,
officers of the 10th Soudanese, who fell in the battle. Around this
spot a ghostly legend hangs. It happened that the other white
officers of the battalion were wounded on the same day, and the
black troops marched back to their bivouac without any of their white
leaders. A black regiment is always accompanied by its women on
the march, and these have high notions of military honour. They
would have nothing to do with men who dared to return alive from
the field on which their officers had fallen. The warriors quailed
before their wives, and serious trouble was brewing, till a black
sergeant, who lay dying of his wounds, solved the difficulty. ‘Tell the
women,’ he said, ‘that enough of us are dead to guard the spirits of
the white men in the other world. I myself will mount the guard.’
There are innumerable witnesses to testify that he has kept his word.
The lesson was not lost. It was the same battalion which later, at the
Atbara, raced the Camerons for the enemy’s zareba, and, catching
their Colonel as he ran in front of them, bore him heels foremost right
through the camp, securely hedged by a living wall of bodies,
because a second loss like that of Abu Hamed was not to be thought
of.
From here onward the journey is full of interest. Berber is
springing up again from its ruins; it even boasts two stations, but it
has not an attractive look as a place to live in; there is as yet nothing
more than the mud huts of the country, and it is the hottest place in
the world. Next comes the Atbara River, though not the scene of the
battle, for that was thirty miles upstream; then Shendi, of fiery
memory, but now the Crewe of the Soudan, and finally, late at night,
you step out of the train at Halfaya, the railway terminus. One glance
at the sky will show you that you are really in the tropics. Canopus is
shining fiercely in the east. Right overhead the giant Orion strides
across the vault. Northwards the Great Bear stands like a huge note
of interrogation in the sky, and just over the opposite horizon the
Southern Cross is looming up.
Halfaya stands on the northern bank of the Blue Nile, near its
junction with the White. It is destined to be the workshop and
commercial quarter of the capital. At present the Government
steamboat factories and workshops are still at Omdurman, a legacy
from dervish days. But already the necessary buildings are springing
up, and as trade increases the railway terminus will attract more and
more to its immediate vicinity. The Blue Nile, just before its junction,
divides into two channels, which embrace the fertile island of Tuti.
Opposite Halfaya, and along the southern bank of the island, the
river runs in a glorious sweep due east and west for two or three
miles. Here, facing northwards, stands Khartoum, with as imposing a
situation as any capital could wish for.
A well-made road runs all along the river-front, which is being
gradually embanked and walled. Right in the centre rises the white
Palace, the official residence of the Governor-General, a handsome
building, on the site of Gordon’s old palace, set in a lovely garden.
On either side of it stretch a succession of Government offices and
the neat residences of Government officials, to the new, spacious,
and comfortable hotel on the one side and the Gordon College and
British barracks on the other, pleasantly variegated with gardens and
groves of palm-trees, acacias, limes, and bananas. Behind this
Government belt, the town is carefully laid out into wide streets and
squares in two other belts. The second of these contains, or will
contain, houses and shops built by private persons, but of a good
class and on approved plans; the third is open for the erection of any
buildings that the owners choose to construct. Finally, close to
Gordon’s rampart are the Soudanese barracks, and, right outside,
the native villages, laid out in squares allotted to different tribes,
where you may see huts of every shape, characteristic of many
different parts of Africa.
Considering that three years ago Khartoum was nothing more
than a dirty dust-heap, the work that has been accomplished by the
Royal Engineers is truly wonderful. Of course, the city is still in the
hands of the builders; everywhere are gangs of workmen levelling
roads, preparing foundations, making bricks of Nile mud, carrying,
hammering, digging, building. Women, too, are employed. Their
principal duty is bearing water for the lines of young trees that will
one day make each street a shady avenue. Already the town is
lighted with lamps far better than many an Egyptian city, and it is
hoped that in a short time a tramway will be in working order.
From November to March the climate is very delightful: it is hot, of
course, at times, but the north wind blows steadily and coolly
practically every day, and sometimes the nights are even cold. Even
if it is hot, there is always the Blue Nile to refresh the eyes. It is a
comfort to find that the Blue Nile is really blue—as blue as any Italian
lake. One is so often told that it is called blue because of the mud it
brings down during the flood—the mud which causes the ‘red’ water
so dear to the Egyptian cultivator. But anyone who looks at it cannot
fail to realize that its name is derived from its clear and limpid waters,
and not from its muddy flood-time. One of the most charming scenes
in Khartoum is the view of these blue waters seen from the windows
of the Soudan Club through a green maze of palms and lime-trees.
Khartoum, with its bungalows, offices, shops, and banks, is a
civilized town, summoned up out of nothing, as it were, by an
enchanter’s wand. Far different is Omdurman. Here, too, the
engineers have been at work, clearing, demolishing, and cleaning.
Only those who marched in after the battle four years ago and saw
those foul labyrinths of streets can realize how much has been
accomplished. But though purified and greatly shrunk, of course,
within its limits in the Khalifa’s time, Omdurman remains a real
Central African city, with nothing European about it. It was originally
intended to move all the inhabitants over to Khartoum; but the
natural convenience of its position on the left bank of the river, just at
the junction of the two Niles, makes it impossible to carry out this
intention. Its population is actually increasing at present, and it
seems far better to let natural forces work their way, and retain it as
the native quarter of the capital, distinct from the seat of government.
It possesses, too, a wide sloping foreshore, or beach, exactly suited
to the feluccas which ply upon the river.
This beach is one of the great sights of Omdurman, and a
fascinating spectacle it is. On a busy day it is absolutely crowded
with traders and porters from all parts of the Soudan. It is the great
market-place for gum from Kordofan, feathers from Darfur, ivory from
the Bahr el Ghazal, dhurra from the Blue Nile country, and
everything else that comes in by boat or camel. All day long the
porters go to and fro, carrying their loads and chanting their
monotonous songs, chiefly tall, broad-chested, but spindle-shanked
negroes from the Nile Valley, Dinkas, Shilluks, Bongos, or Bari, with
here and there a short, thick-set, sturdy hillman from Southern
Kordofan or Dar Nuba. Women equally diverse in type sit sorting the
different qualities of gum. Naked children, brown and black, tumble
and chatter in every direction. It is difficult to drag one’s self away, so
strange and novel and varied are the sights.
But Omdurman has much more to show. First and foremost the
Khalifa’s house, the only two-storied building in the town, and built of
brick. It is occupied now by the British inspectors. Hard by are the
ruins of the Mahdi’s tomb, too solidly built to be entirely destroyed,
but even its partial demolition has been sufficient to put a complete
stop to pilgrimages. In front is the great square in which the Khalifa
used to preach to his assembled dervishes. It is surrounded by a
high wall excellently built, said to be the work of the German
Neufeld. It is witness now of scenes very different from those of the
old fanatical days, so far removed in everything but time—perhaps
the parade of a Soudanese battalion, a football match, or the arrival
of a string of camels laden with gum from El Obeid.
In the Beit el Amana are some interesting relics of the past. Here
are the brass cannon taken originally by the Mahdi from the
Egyptians, and piles of captured dervish muskets of every shape and
form, swords and caps; and here, too, is the Khalifa’s carriage, a
ramshackle, broken-down old four-wheeled chariot. It is a puzzle
how it ever got to Omdurman. It looks as if it were built for some
quiet old maiden lady in a French provincial town, but it fell on a
strange master in its old age; and Slatin Pasha, now Inspector-
General of the Soudan, had to run as a footman before it. Close by is
the great broad street leading northwards, by which the British troops
marched in on the battle. Every step is reminiscent of the last
evening of days of the dervish tyranny.
But the most fascinating sight of all is the sook, or market. The
mixture of races is amazing. It would take a trained scientist to
catalogue them all. From a camel to a silver bracelet, there is
nothing dear to a native that cannot be bought. Here are made and
sold the angarebs, or native bedsteads, woven with string across a
low four-legged wooden framework. As yet these people have not
much mechanical ingenuity, and their appliances for working in wood
and iron or other metals are rude in the extreme. The past in the
Soudan has not been conducive to the development of the arts, but
there is promise for the future.
One feature of the place is the curiosity shops, full of many
strange spears and shields, knives and sabres, and occasionally an
iron gauntlet or coat of mail such as the dervishes wore; but these
are rare now. These Arab shopmen know how to drive a hard
bargain, and love nothing better than chaffering over a price. All
curiosities are called ‘antiquos.’ There is an annual flower-show in
Khartoum, at which a prize is given for the best ‘antiquos.’ A
Soudanese turned up who was very anxious to compete for this
prize with a live porcupine, which he insisted was an ‘antiquo.’ He
was allowed to exhibit at last, but not for competition, on condition
that he himself led it about by a string, as the authorities could not
undertake its charge. With more justice a live tortoise is also
commonly offered for sale as a very choice ‘antiquo.’ In another
quarter are the rope-makers, twisting their long coils of fibre in
exactly the same way as they have been twisted for centuries;
further on, the basket and net makers are weaving dried reeds in
curious patterns. Yet another part is entirely devoted to the needs of
women. Here are combs and strings of all kinds of beads, unguents,
and the strange preparations they use for fixing the small plaits in
which they tie their hair; cinnamon bark and other scents, without
which no wedding is complete; cooking-pots and other articles of
their scanty domestic furniture; even dolls of most weird and
fantastic shapes and material, and many other quaint trifles. The
whole place is crowded with women, black and brown, many of them
tall in stature, easy and graceful in their movements, and, however
ugly they may be in other respects, nearly all with the most
beautifully shaped arms.
It is a strange contrast to go a little further on through the western
outskirts of the town, and to find a game of polo proceeding on the
hard desert sand. And beyond, again, in the middle of these great
spaces, far from the rush and turmoil of the town, are the quiet
graves of two or three of those who have laid down their lives in this
far country, and shall see their homes no more.
It would take a long time to get tired of merely riding about in
Omdurman and watching the thousand and one sights of such a
place, and reflecting on the stranger scenes that must so frequently
have been enacted there less than five short years ago. But if you
want a gallop in the desert, nothing is more delightful than to pass
along the broad street leading northwards through the deserted
quarters of the once huge city, and to ride, with the keen wind
blowing freshly in your face, to Gebel Surgham, the hill which
overlooks the field of Kerreri, that historic field of bloodshed. The
merest novice can easily follow every phase of the battle, and see
where wave after wave of the dervish hosts rushed madly but
heroically to their doom. Some of their skulls still lie bleaching in the
sun. There, too, is the khor where the Lancers made their famous
charge. Or you may take boat, and sail past the mud forts that
saluted the steamers which came just too late for the watcher
anxiously straining his eyes to see them from the palace in
Khartoum. Almost every spot has its own historic interest. Perhaps
as you skim along before the wind a battered old paddle-steamer
labours creaking past, towing a string of barges. It is one of Gordon’s
gunboats, once more patched up and restored to duty.
But of all the sights and interests of this fascinating place, by far
the most impressive, as in Cairo itself, is the ancient and mighty
river. Khartoum and Omdurman are what they are because here the
two great tributaries join their forces and set out across the waterless
desert on their great mission to Egypt. The spot where the Blue and
White rivers meet, and for some distance flow side by side
unmingled, would be still in many ways the most notable in all