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Textbook Pocket Paris 6Th Edition Lonely Planet Ebook All Chapter PDF
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Contents
Welcome to Paris
Top Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Museums
Architecture
History
Parks & Gardens
Riverside Activities
Tours
Cooking & Wine-Tasting Courses
For Kids
LGBT+
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Paris Neighbourhoods
Explore Paris
Worth a Trip
Père Lachaise
Versailles
Survival Guide
Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Paris
Getting Around
Essential Information
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
Welcome to Paris
Named for its leading role in the Age of
Enlightenment, la ville lumière (the City of Light) is
famed for its monument-lined boulevards, treasure-
packed museums, classic bistros and haute couture
(high fashion) houses. Today they’re enhanced by a
new wave of multimedia galleries, design shops and
tech start-ups that are reasserting Paris’ position as a
visionary global city.
THITIPHAN PAKSEESUWAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Paris Top Sights
Musée Rodin
Museum with a sculpture-studded garden.
ROMAN BELOGORODOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Paris Top Sights
Arc de Triomphe
A monument to past glories.
BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Paris Top Sights
Louvre
The mother of all museums.
Sacré-Cœur
Sacré-Cœur’s dove-white domes crown Montmartre.
NATTEE CHALERMTIRAGOOL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Paris Top Sights
Centre Pompidou
Europe’s largest collection of modern art.
SAILORR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Paris Top Sights
Notre Dame
French Gothic masterpiece.
BADAHOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Paris Top Sights
Jardin du Luxembourg
Playground of Paris.
JULIJA OGRODOWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Paris Top Sights
Musée d’Orsay
Art in an upcycled train station.
SALVADOR MANIQUIZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Eating
BRIAN JANNSEN/ALAMY ©
Evolving Trends
In addition to classical French fare, look out for cuisines from around
the globe. Neobistros offer some of Paris’ most exciting dining
options. Generally small and relatively informal, they’re run by
young, talented chefs who aren’t afraid to experiment. Exclusively
vegetarian and vegan establishments are increasing, as are places
offering gluten-free dishes.
Dining Times
Petit déjeuner (breakfast; usually a baguette with butter and jam,
and strong coffee) is seen as a mere precursor to déjeuner (lunch; the
traditional main meal, starting around 12.30pm). Most restaurants
open for dîner (dinner) around 7pm or 7.30pm. Some high-end
restaurants close at weekends, and many places close in August.
Menus
Restaurants usually serve a plat du jour (dish of the day) at lunch
(and occasionally at dinner), as well as menus (fixed-price meals) of
an entrée (starter), plat (main course) and fromage (cheese) or
dessert or both. These offer infinitely better value than ordering à la
carte. Meals are often considerably cheaper at lunch than dinner.
Best Neobistros
Richer Brilliant-value bistro fare but no reservations, so arrive early.
Clover Watch the chefs at work in the combined dining space–
kitchen.
Le Servan Daily changing creations in a neighbourhood bistro near
Père Lachaise.
A Midrange restaurants will usually have a free table for lunch (arrive by
12.30pm); book a day or two in advance for dinner.
A Reservations up to one or two months in advance are crucial for lunch and
dinner at popular and high-end restaurants. You may need to reconfirm on
the day.
A Service is always included: a pourboire (tip) on top of the bill is not
necessary, though rounding the bill up is common.
Drinking & Nightlife
PETR KOVALENKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Coffee
If you order un café (a coffee), you’ll be served a single shot of
espresso. A café allonge is lengthened with hot water, a café au lait
comes with milk and a café crème, lengthened with steamed milk, is
the closest to a latte. Local roasteries such as Belleville Brûlerie and
Coutume prime cafes citywide for outstanding brews made by
professional baristas, often using cutting-edge extraction techniques.
Beer
Paris’ growing bière artisanale (craft beer) scene is going from
strength to strength, with an increasing number of city breweries. An
excellent resource for hopheads is www.hoppyparis.com.
Wine
Wine is easily the most popular beverage in Paris and house wine
invariably costs less than bottled water. Les vins naturels (natural
wines) contain little or no sulphites.
Cocktails
Cocktail bars are undergoing a resurgence; many hip restaurants pair
cocktails with food. Paris Cocktail Week (www.pariscocktailweek.fr)
takes place in late January.
Best Coffee
Beans on Fire Collaborative roastery and cafe.
Wine Bars
Le Garde Robe Affordable natural wines and an unpretentious vibe.
La Quincave Perch on wine-barrel bar stools to choose from over
200 natural wines.
Au Sauvignon Original zinc bar and hand-painted ceiling.
A Although most places serve at least small plates (often full menus), it’s
normally fine to order a coffee or alcohol if you’re not dining.
A The French rarely go drunk-wild and tend to frown upon it.
A For clubbing events, visit www.sortiraparis.com: click on ‘Soirées & Bars’,
then ‘Nuits Parisiennes’.
Shopping
MARC BRUXELLE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Fashion
Fashion shopping is Paris’ forte. Parisian fashion is about style and
quality first and foremost, rather than status or brand names.
Markets
The city’s street markets are social gatherings for the entire
neighbourhood. Nearly every little quarter has its own street market
at least once a week (never Monday) where tarpaulin-topped trestle
tables bow beneath fresh, cooked and preserved delicacies. Marchés
biologiques (organic markets) are increasingly sprouting up across
the city. Many street markets also sell clothes, accessories,
homewares and more.
Gourmet Shops
Food and drink shops make for mouthwatering shopping. Pastries
might not keep, but items you can take home (customs regulations
permitting) include chocolates, jams, preserves and French cheeses.
Many of the best fromageries (cheese shops) can provide vacuum
packing.
A Paris’ twice-yearly soldes (sales) generally last five to six weeks, starting
around mid-January and again around mid-June.
A Most shops offer free (and very beautiful) gift wrapping – ask for un paquet
cadeau.
A Non-EU residents may be eligible for a TVA (taxe sur la valeur ajoutée;
value-added tax) refund.
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given a tilt to the bucket. At all events down they went together to the
bottom, a distance of thirty feet.
The mother, who had seen him at the moment when the descent
began, ran, half shrieking to the well, where she was joined by Mrs.
Templin a moment after.
“Oh, Mis’s, Mis’s, my po’ ophing chile have fell in de well and
broke his naik, and drown hese’f on top o’ that, an’ he my precious
baby—an’ de las’ one I got!”
Mrs. Templin said: “I’m sorry for you, Judy. But maybe he has
been mercifully saved from drowning. Lean over and look down as I
turn the windlass.”
After a few turns, she knew by the feeling that the bucket had risen
to the surface of the water, which was some four feet deep.
“Now call him,” she said.
“Li’ll Iky! Li’ll Iky!” shouted Judy.
“Ma-a-a-a-me!” came a sharp, plaintive answer from the great
deep.
“Is you down dar, precious?”
“Eth, e-e-eth, ’m.”
“Well, well, is you drownded?”
“No—no—no, ’m!”
“Well, well! Is you done gone all to pieces?”
“No—n-n-no, ’m!”
“Is anything de matter wid mammy’s precious boy baby?”
“I k-k-k-co-co-o-ld!”
“Well, well, where is you now?”
“In—in de—b-b-bucket!”
Mrs. Templin then directed the mother to urge the child to hold fast
to the rope while she herself would turn the windlass.
“Dar now, you heah dat? Mis’s say she wan’ my nice li’ll darky to
ketch tight hold to der rope—tight as a tick; an’ she say she gwine
draw him up with her own blessed hands. Mis’s say she can’t ’ford to
lose likely li’ll fellow like my li’ll Ike, dat she can’t. Ye heah, mammy’s
precious suga’ lump?”
“E-e-e-e-th, ’m!”
The winding began, and the mother, being urged to encourage Ike
as much as possible during the ascent, did as well as she could by
such cheering remarks as these:
“Jes’ look at dat! Mis’s givin’ her li’ll niggah such a nice ride! En
Mis’s done tole mammy tah kill six chickens, an’ fry one o’m an’ brile
one o’m an’ make pie out of de rest, an’ all for li’ll Iky’s dinner; an’
she say she gwine make daddy barb’cue two pigs dis very evenin’,
and nobody ain’t to tech a mou’f’l on’m cep’n li’ll Iky if he’ll holt on tah
de well-rope. An’ she say, Mis’s do, she jes’ know her great big li’ll
Ike ain’t gwine to let dat rope loose an’ not get all dem goodies!”
It is possible that in so brief a time never was promised a greater
number of luxuries to a child born to loftiest estate. Chickens, ducks
—indeed the whole poultry yard was more than exhausted; every pig
on the plantation was done to a turn. During the ascent little Ike was
informed that eatables of every description would be at his disposal
forever. The time does not suffice to tell of other rewards promised in
the name of the munificent mistress, in the way of cakes, pies,
syllabubs, gold and silver and costly apparel. All this while, Mrs.
Templin, without uttering a word, turned the windlass, slowly,
steadily.
When the bucket with its contents reached the top, and was safely
lodged upon the ledge, the mother seized her precious darling, his
teeth chattering the while with chill, and dragging him fiercely forth,
said in wrathful tones:
“A cold is yah? Well, ef I be bressed wid strength an’ ef dey is
peachy trees ’nough in de orchard, an’ de fence corners, I’ll wa’m
yah. You dat has sceert me intah fits, an’ made me tell all dem lies—
dem on Mis’s—dat I jes’ knows I never ken git fahgivin’ fo’ ’em.” And,
still holding him, she began striding toward the kitchen door.
“Judy!” called her mistress sternly, “Judy, put down that child this
minute! Aren’t you ashamed of yourself? Instead of being thankful
that he wasn’t killed, here you stand and are so angry with him that
you look as though you wished to kill him yourself. Now take him into
your house and put some dry clothes on him; then send him to me in
the house, where I will have some coffee ready for him. And mind
you, Judy, if you lay your hands on that child in anger, that won’t be
the last of it. Do for goodness’ sake try to learn some reason about
your children.”
Judy led him away sullenly, and in spite of her mistress’s warning,
muttered direful threatenings, louder and louder, as she approached,
ending thus, as, having clothed him, she dispatched him to the big
house:
“Nevah yah min’, sah; wait till Sunday come, when Mis’s go tah
meetin’, an’ you’ll see! An’, boy, ef yah skeers me dat way ag’in, I’ll
put yah whar yah won’t wan’ no mo’ watah an’ no mo’ nothin’. The
idee! people all talkin’ ’bout my chile gittin’ drowned same as puppies
an’ kittens! Ought to be ’shamed o’ yourself! I is. I jes’ ’spises to look
at yah! G’long out my sight!”
Ten minutes afterwards, while little Ike was in the big house,
luxuriating in coffee, biscuit and fried chicken, she was singing in
cheerful voice one of her favorite hymns:
Standing about her bed they sang that, and each separate heart
was welling a song of joy, because they thought she had come back
to them!
Like those great ladies at Versailles, in the reign of the Grand
Monarch, who received in bed, she laughed, happy as the happiest
of them.
Then came another procession, down to the last servant in the
house, bearing gifts. Then flowers and green things—until the
beautiful rose-embroidered covering of her bed was lost to sight
under the load of flowers, and these in turn were blotted out with the
gifts. Wonderful gifts they were! How could they not be? They were
welcoming with them their best beloved back to life! On her neck
was girded a chain, on her fingers were put rings, and in her ears
were hung gems, so that she blazed with jewels. Before her lay a
splendid, filmy dress, and with it were hat and gloves and a gay
parasol.
All—all, gifts of life!
And yet another procession came, bearing holly and mistletoe and
garlands and crimson berries, and last of all, a Christmas tree, all
lighted and glowing with a hundred pretty things. And almost in a
moment they transformed the room into a Christmas bower. The
bed, the walls, the floor, bloomed in the red and white and green of
Christmas.
So Christmas came—the gayest, the maddest, the saddest that
house had ever known.
But she had barely carried it through, and when the excitement
would pass the doctor knew that no stimulant devised by man could
keep her on the earth she had blessed an hour longer. Before the
collapse quite came, the doctor said:
“My patient is tired—”
“A little tired, yes,” she smiled at them. “To-morrow.”
So they all kissed the painted lips good-night and, wishing her a
happy to-morrow, went away.
The doctor moved to take the heavy gifts off the bed. She stopped
him with a tired smile and a shake of the head. It was all she could
do just then. Life was very low.
“No,” she shook, “I want them all just as they are. Mamma said to-
morrow—” she halted.
“Yes.”
“Poor mamma!”
O CAPTAIN! MY CAPTAIN!
By Walt Whitman
My Captain does not answer, his lips are pale and still;
My father does not feel my arm, he has no pulse nor will;
The ship is anchor’d safe and sound, its voyage closed and done,
From fearful trip the victor ship comes in with object won.
Exult, O shores, and ring, O bells!
But I, with mournful tread,
Walk the deck my Captain lies,
Fallen cold and dead.
—Written as a funeral poem for Lincoln, and one of the great
poems of the nineteenth century.
Clear and sweet came the tones, like pearls in their rounded
purity. The mother was crying bitterly.
These words came with ringing force, and it seemed to the old
folks that Milly, far away in Paris, stretched out her hands to them
across the water.
LITTLE BROTHER
By Madeleine Z. Doty
A TRUE STORY
It was a warm summer’s day in late August. No men were visible
in the Belgian hamlet. The women reaped in the fields; the insects
hummed in the dry, warm air; the house-doors stood open. On a bed
in a room in one of the cottages lay a woman. Beside her sat a small
boy. He was still, but alert, his eyes following the buzzing flies. With
a bit of paper he drove the intruders from the bed. His mother slept.
It was evident from the pale, drawn face that she was ill.
Suddenly the dreaming, silent, summer day was broken by the
sound of clattering hoofs. Some one was riding hurriedly through the
town.
The woman moved uneasily. Her eyes opened. She smiled at the
little boy.
“What is it, dear?”
The boy went to the window. Women were gathering in the street.
He told his mother and hurried from the room. Her eyes grew
troubled. In a few minutes the child was back, breathless and
excited.
“Oh, mother, mother, the Germans are coming!”
The woman braced herself against the shock. At first she hardly
grasped the news. Then her face whitened, her body quivered and
became convulsed. Pain sprang to her eyes, driving out fear; beads
of perspiration stood on her forehead; a little animal cry of pain broke
from her lips. The boy gazed at her paralyzed, horrified; then he
flung himself down beside the bed and seized his mother’s hand.
“What is it, mother, what is it?”
The paroxysm of pain passed; the woman’s body relaxed, her
hand reached for the boy’s head and stroked it. “It’s all right, my
son.” Then as the pain began again, “Quick, sonny, bring auntie.”
The boy darted from the room. Auntie was the woman-doctor of B
——. He found her in the Square. The townspeople were wildly
excited. The Germans were coming. But the boy thought only of his
mother. He tugged at auntie’s sleeve. His frenzied efforts at last
caught her attention. She saw he was in need and went with him.
Agonizing little moans issued from the house as they entered. In
an instant the midwife understood. She wanted to send the boy
away, but she must have help. Who was there to fetch and carry?
The neighbors, terrified at their danger, were making plans for
departure. She let the boy stay.
Through the succeeding hour a white-faced little boy worked
manfully. His mother’s cries wrung his childish heart. Why did babies
come this way? He could not understand. Would she die? Had his
birth given such pain? If only she could speak! And once, as if
realizing his necessity, his mother did speak.
“It’s all right, my son; it will soon be over.”
That message brought comfort; but his heart failed when the end
came. He rushed to the window and put his little hands tight over his
ears. It was only for a moment. He was needed. His mother’s moans
had ceased and a baby’s cry broke the stillness.
The drama of birth passed, the midwife grew restless. She
became conscious of the outer world. There were high, excited
voices; wagons clattered over stones; moving-day had descended
on the town. She turned to the window. Neighbors with
wheelbarrows and carts piled high with household possessions
hurried by. They beckoned to her.
For a moment the woman hesitated. She looked at the mother on
the bed, nestling her babe to her breast; then the panic of the
outside world seized her. Quickly she left the room.