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Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to Milan
Top Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Art
Architecture
History
Design
For Kids
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Milan Neighbourhoods

Explore Milan
Duomo & San Babila
Quadrilatero d’Oro & Giardini Pubblici

Brera & Parco Sempione

Porta Garibaldi & Isola

Corso Magenta & Sant’Ambrogio

Navigli

Porta Romana & Porta Vittoria

Worth a Trip

Borromean Islands
Como

Survival Guide

Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Milan
Getting Around
Essential Information

Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
Welcome to Milan

Milan is Italy’s city of the future, a fast-paced

metropolis where creativity is big business. From
cutting-edge design to creative dining and a sidewalk
scene that makes Fashion Week seem redundant,
Milan is both thrilling and fun. Everyone here is
fizzing with ideas and ambition, and it’s catching.
Unlike nonna’s Italy further south, the Milanese, like
New Yorkers, are refreshing modernists. The main
currency here isn’t the euro or amazing design
gadgetry – it’s inspiration.

Duomo | DENZEL9/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
 Milan
1 Top Sights
Duomo
With its ageless marble facade and countless pinnacles and spires
piercing the sky, Milan’s splendid Gothic cathedral is a veritable
outdoor sculpture museum.

SHINKAJI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Milan Top Sights

The Last Supper

Saved from WWII bombs by a bank of sandbags, Leonardo da Vinci’s
Last Supper (Il Cenacolo) is one of the world’s most iconic images.

YURI TURKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Milan Top Sights

Pinacoteca di Brera
Founded in the 18th century, the Pinacoteca houses a priceless
collection of Old Masters that include the likes of Titian, Veronese,
Bellini and Caravaggio.

PAOLO BONA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Milan Top Sights

Museo del Novecento

Milan’s stunning collection of 20th-century art is fittingly housed in
the rigorous, Fascist-era Palazzo dell’Arengario.

CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Milan Top Sights

Castello Sforzesco
Former residence of the dukes of Milan, Sforza castle is one of the
biggest citadels in Europe. It now houses the city’s civic museums.

CATARINA BELOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Milan Top Sights

Museo Poldi Pezzoli

Poldi Pezzoli’s historically themed apartments offer a preserved-in-
amber insight into the heyday of 19th-century patronage.

LESTERTAIR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Milan Top Sights

Isole Borromee
In Lake Maggiore’s most beautiful corner, the Borromean Islands
harbour the spectacular palaces of the Borromeo family.

ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Milan Top Sights

Museo Nazionale Scienza e

Tecnologia
Dedicated to inventor Leonardo da Vinci, Italy’s finest science and
technology museum is housed in a 16th-century Olivetan monastery.

VIKTOR GLADKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Eating

Milan’s dining scene is like its fashion scene, with

restaurant openings hotly debated and Michelin-
starred tables hard to come by. Milanese cooking is
influenced by French and Austrian traditions, in
addition to which the city offers a wealth of regional
Italian and ethnic eateries. Make reservations Friday
through Sunday.

KOKOPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Food History
Northern Italian food is city food originating from one of the richest
urban cultures on the planet. Peasants may have toiled in the fields,
but they rarely had the means to eat anything more exciting than
wild garlic, greens and polenta. The people with the real knowledge
to transform the country’s growing abundance of ingredients were
the inhabitants of wealthy cities like Milan. As Venetian and Genoese
sailors offloaded their cargoes of spices, sugar, saffron, fruit, citrus
and nuts from around the Mediterranean, so traders distributed
them via northern Italy’s navigable network of rivers. Powerful clans
like Milan’s Sforza’s competed for a slice of the profits, taxing trade
and patronising the best cooks of the day. It was in this competitive
commercial environment that Italy’s great cuisine was born.

Foreign Flavours
Milan’s generations of internal Italian immigrants have injected the
cuisine of virtually every region into the lifeblood of the city, where
you’ll often find Genovese, Piedmontese and Tuscan dishes sharing
menu space with local Lombard classics. As well as the food of these
near neighbours, Milan’s increasingly diverse global population is
also reflected in the city’s eating habits. Unusually for Italy, Japanese
and Chinese restaurants are commonplace and the cuisines of India,
the Middle East, sub-Saharan Africa and, most recently, Latin
America are all represented.

Best Milanese
Ratanà A native Milanese chef turns out some of the city’s best local
cuisine.

Latteria di San Marco A classic family concern dishing up Milanese

home cooking.
Trattoria Milanese Old-school restaurant in a pretty cobbled street.
Luini The oldest panzerotti (savoury pastry) take-away in the city.
Best Regional Italian
Ristorante da Giacomo Classic Tuscan seafood dishes in an elegant
Mongiardino-designed restaurant.
A Santa Lucia A Neapolitan restaurant with a celebrated history.
Volemose Bene Taste the punchy flavours of the south in this
raucous Roman trattoria.
Trattoria del Pescatore Outstanding Sardinian cuisine, including the
best lobster in town.

Best Ethnic
Tokuyoshi Michelin-starred Italian-Japanese cuisine with a refined
aesthetic.
Casa Ramen Super An Italian take on ramen that stays true to the
soul of the dish.
Dim Sum Chinese cuisine showcasing Lombard ingredients.
NÚN Reinvents the humble Middle Eastern kebab into gourmet
wraps.

Best Michelin Stars

Ristorante Berton Food that pushes the boundaries to produce
‘evolved’ Italian cuisine.
Seta One of the most talked-about dining destinations in town.
Cracco Deconstructive alta cucina from Milan’s most famous chef.
(pictured)
Alice Ristorante Viviana Varese’s exciting contemporary restaurant in
Eataly’s flagship store.
Drinking & Nightlife

Drinking is a stylish affair in Milan and an opportunity

for la bella figura (making a good impression).
Cocktail and wine bars abound, particularly in
Navigli, Porta Romana and Isola, and stay open until
2am, while clubs are open until 5am. Zero’s
(http://zero.eu/milano) fortnightly guide and info is
useful, as is 2night (http://2night.it/milano).

TAREK MUSTAFA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Aperitivo
Happy hour elsewhere in the world might mean downing cut-price
pints and stale crisps, but not in oh-so-stylish Milan. Its nightly
aperitivo (predinner drinks with snacks) is a two- or three-hour
ritual, starting around 6pm, where for €8 to €20, a cocktail, glass of
wine, or beer comes with an unlimited buffet of bruschetta, foccacia,
cured meats, salads, and even seafood and pasta. (Occasionally you’ll
pay a cover charge up front that includes a drink and buffet fare,
which generally works out the same.) Take a plate and help yourself;
snacks are also sometimes brought to your table. Most of the city’s
bars offer aperitivi, in some form or other.

Best Cocktails
Mag Cafè Creative cocktails in a laid-back canalside bar with a
speakeasy vibe.

Bar Rita An American-style cocktail bar serving up the classics with a

twist.
Bamboo Bar The best designer bar in the city.
Bar Basso A Milanese institution and the home of the negroni
sbagliato.
Octavius Bar Top cocktails by a one-time barman of the year.
Botanical Club Fabulous gin-based cocktails from Milan’s first
microdistillery.

Best Historic Cafes

Pasticceria Marchesi Serving coffee and superlative cakes beneath
historic painted ceilings since 1824.
Pasticceria Cova Milan’s oldest cafe, opened in 1817 by Antonio
Cova, a soldier of Napoleon.
Gattullo Perfect coffee and pastries from southern baking impresario
Joseph Gattullo.
Pasticceria Cucchi 1930s style and a devilish raspberry pie.
Sant’Ambroeus Opened by French pastry chefs in the belle époque
and famous for its pralines.

Best Wine Bars

Cantine Isola One of the few places you can taste top-shelf
producers by the glass.
Vinoir A youthful crew and an interesting list of bio-dynamic wines.
Ricerca Vini A restaurant and wine vendor with a huge and well-
curated inventory.
N’Ombra de Vin All-day tastings in a former Augustinian refectory.

Best Aperitivo
Ceresio 7 A rooftop perch with stylish snacks to match the views.
(pictured)
Cantine Isola Lovingly prepared snacks to pair with top-quality
wines.
Pasticceria Marchesi A picture-perfect spritz (cocktail made with
prosecco) with pretty snacks to match.
oTTo Scandi smørrebrøds (open sandwiches) and a hipster crowd.
Frida Fun people-watching and over 80 cocktails, beers and wines to
choose from.
Dry Why bother with a buffet when this bar pairs cocktails with
perfect pizzas?

Best Night Out

Apollo Club A vintage-style bar with dinner, dancing and international
DJs.
Santeria Social Club An ex-Volvo dealership turned cultural venue
and live-music hub.
VOLT Fashion-forward club vying that takes its cool cue from Berlin.
Alcatraz A huge club featuring Latino, house and classic rock ‘n’ roll.
Nidaba Theatre An award-winning live-music venue hosting serious
blues, soul and folk.
Shopping

Milan is an industry town that lives and breathes

fashion and design and takes retail as seriously as it
does biotech or engineering. Beyond the heart-
fluttering price tags of the the Quadrilatero (the
Quad), the rest of the city abounds with vintage
stores, concept shops, multibrand retailers, cute
boutiques and artisanal ateliers.

ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Where to Shop
Beyond the dazzling big-name brands in the Quad, there are a wealth
of other shopping experiences to be had in Milan. Younger labels and
a hip new breed of multibrand retailers can be found in Brera, Corso
Como, Corso Magenta, Corso di Porta Ticinese and Navigli, while
midrange labels and chains line bustling Via Torino, Corso Vercelli
and Corso Buenos Aires. Milan’s interior and industrial designers
have showrooms throughout the city, although many concentrate in
the streets surrounding Piazza San Babila.

Tax Refunds
Non-EU residents spending more than €155 can claim a refund when
they depart the EU. The refund only applies to purchases from retail
outlets that display a ‘tax-free for tourists’ sign. You can claim your
refund at the airport or at any office of Global Blue
(www.globalblue.com) or Premier Tax Free (https://premiertax
free.com).

Best Shopping Experiences

Quadrilatero d’Oro The world’s most famous luxury shopping quarter.

NonostanteMarras Milan’s most creative concept store.

Spazio Rossana Orlandi Creative design and homewares in a former
tie factory.
10 Corso Como Cutting-edge fashion from Carla Sozzani.
Costanza Milano Shopping tours of Milan’s under-the-radar furniture
warehouses.

Best Heritage Brands

Borsalino Maker of the world’s coolest hats for more than 150 years.
Pellini Costume jewellery from the granddaughters of a La Scala
costumier.
Aspesi Understated, stylish outdoor gear and leisurewear.
F. Pettinaroli Monogrammed stationery for top desk dressing.
Foto Veneta Ottica 1930s photo studio filled with supercool sunnies.

Best for Food & Wine

Peck Crammed with every delectable Milanese treat you can
imagine.
Eataly A multistorey temple of gastronomic goodness. (pictured)
Zaini The original Milanese chocolates wrapped like Christmas
presents.
Cantine Isola An impressive array of hard-to-find regional wines.

Best Vintage Finds

Cavalli e Nastri Early- and mid-20th-century Italian fashion-house
names.
Mania Vintage Authenticated bags and accessories from the most
coveted brands.
Il Cirmolo A treasure trove of homewares and collectable artefacts.

Best Stylist’s Eye

Biffi Edgier pieces curated with a hyper-fashionable sensibility.
Imarika Bold colours and prints are given a modern Milanese make-
over.
Slowear Store Timeless menswear supported by an ethical
philosophy.
Wait and See Eclectic, super-fun, highly wearable collection.
Dictionary Elegant streetwear delivering a sharp contemporary look.
Art

Milan’s museums contain collections to rival any in

Italy, with works from the Middle Ages through to
modernist masters. What’s more, you can often
linger with a Bellini or Caravaggio without the usual
crowds, even in Milan’s most famous gallery, the
Pinacoteca di Brera. The city is also a treasure trove
of 20th-century art.

S74/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Enlightened Vision
The great museum tradition for which Milan is famous can be traced
back to the educational aims of Counter-Reformation cardinal,
Federico Borromeo (1564–1631). During his 36 years as Milan’s
cardinal, he distinguished himself through his incorruptible virtue,
academic zeal and civic patronage. In 1609 he founded the Biblioteca
Ambrosiana, which along with Oxford’s Bodleian, was one of the first
public libraries in Europe. In 1618 he also donated his art collection
to the Ambrosian academy and laid the foundation of a public
institution that could work with the school training artists.

The Contemporary Scene

Milan’s creative reputation is usually linked to the fashion and
design industry, but the city’s contemporary art scene is, with
neighbouring Turin, the most dynamic in Italy. The majority of
Italy’s living artists choose to call Milan home, at least between
sojourns in New York or Berlin, while Milan’s annual art fair, Miart
(www.miart.it) is the largest in Italy, attracting more than 45,000
visitors and 200 exhibitors.

Best Frescoes
The Last Supper Not strictly a fresco at all; Leonardo da Vinci’s The
Last Supper breaks all the rules.

Chiesa di San Maurizio Seventy years in the making, San Maurizio’s

frescoes still dazzle onlookers.
Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio At the heart of this basilica is the lovely
Portinari Chapel decorated by Renaissance great, Vincenzo Foppa.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Presso di San Satiro San Satiro’s tiny chapel
made large with Bramante’s brilliant trompe l’oeil niche.
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Erst die Berliner Jahrhundert-Ausstellung zeigte weiteren Kreisen,
was Feuerbach dem deutschen Volke hinterlassen.
Spamersche Buchdruckerei in Leipzig
 *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ANSELM
FEUERBACH ***

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