R E PR IN TE D FR OM ‘

Q HA R P E R S BA Z A R
’
.
”

T HE

UG LY G IRL PA PERS;
-

HINTS FO R T HE T O ILET .

NE W YO R !
H A RP E R BROT H ERS , P U B L I S H ER S ,

FR A N ! LIN SQ UA RE .
 En te re d acc ord in g t o Ac t of C o n gr e ss , i n t h e y ear 1 87 4 , by

H A E RP R Sc B RO T H E RS .

In t h e O ffi ce o f h L ib
t e rar i a n f C ng
o o t
r e ss, a Was h in gt on .
 A U NT S U SA N ,

EAR AND HAND

THE D SO M E O LD LAD Y W HO N EVE R
NEE DE D A NY OF T H E SE RE C IPES ,

ME OFFE R MY FI RST B O O ! .

5 1m.
m
,
 P R E FA C E .

BY m e ans of th e se sc a tt e r e d c h apt e rs t h e
w rit e r h as com e to kno w wo m e n b e tt e r — t h e ir
tra ditions d e si r e s an d d e lig h ts I f t h roug h
, ,
.
.

t h e s e p ag e s wom e s h ould kno w t h e ms e lv e s

n

a n d w h at t h e y m ay b e com e i n r ega rd a d n

t e mp e r for t h e ir lov e rs fri e nds c h ildre n a n d

, , ,

t h e ir o wn s ak e s i t wil l we ll r e ward t h e p
,
l e as
a t l bor w h ic h h as alr e a dy m e t suc h kind
n a

appr e ci a tion B e gun b y c h anc e to m ake a n

.
,

agr e e bl e a rtic l e or t wo for Ha r er s B az a r

’
a
p
th e Ugly G irl P ap e rs we r e conti n u e d by
-

r e qu e st a d h a v e broug h t t h e writ e r into

,
n

fri e ndly b e arings wit h m any of t h e r e ad e rs

of t h e B a za r To t h e ir qu e stio s an d h ints
. n

t h e s e c h apt e rs o we more of t h e ir v alu e t h an

 PREFA C E .

a pp e ars on t h e surfa c e ;an d t h e littl e book

go e s out h oping to m e e t if not n e w fri e nds ,

a t l e ast som e old on e s.

Th e sci e nc e of t h e toi le t is we ll nig h as

-

d e lic at e as t h a t of m e dicin e ;an d as no p e r

scriptio n h as y e t prov e d a sp e cific for dis e as e ,

n o r e cip e c a n r e a c h al l c a s e s of compl e xion .

I could wis h for t h is book t h e good will a d-

n

consid e r a tion of p h ysici ans und e r w h os e ad

,

vic e it m ay b e h ope d its sugge stions wil l ap

p ro v e t h e m s e l v e s of wid e s e rvic e
.

S D P
. . .
 C O NT E NT S .

C H A P TER I .

W m n s Bu sin e t o b e B u t i f l How t o A cq u i e C l
o a
'
ss ea u .
-
r a e ar

C mpl e xi n — R gim f Pu i t y f t h Bl d C b n
o o . e en or r o e oo . ar o

at f Amm e oni d P w d e d C h c l —St ippl e d Skin

o a an o er ar oa . s .

F c M k — O ily C mpl xi n
a e I i t t i n of t h
as s . o e o s .
-
rr a o s e

Skin — L tt i c .C m e t ic C ling D ink s S

e — r e as a os . oo r . uu

—
B ths B e d d M l
a r P ge 9
a an o a sse s . . a

C H A P T E R II .

C ar e of t he H i — C hild n H i
Wh e n t C t i t a r . re
’ ’

s a r .
— o u .

Amm ni a W h — G lyc in o d Amm ni — P as es . er e an o a o

m d a — H w t B u h th e H i
es .
— C u t t ing t h e E n d
o o r s a r . s .

— G m n M th d f T
er t ing t h e H i
a — S u the n w d
e o o rea a r . o r oo

P m d H i Dy s Dy ing t h Eye b o w
o — a — e .
-
d Ey
a r e e e r s an e

l h — S pe fl
as es H i : —D pil t o i e —W h e f
. u r u ou s a r e a r s . as s or

t h E yel
e h e d Ey b w as s an 22 e ro s

C H A P T E R III .

E l eg nc e o f M nn e
a G c e f t h e L t in R c e s — Th e
a r . ra o a a .

S c et ef G cer —G lidi g M v e m e n t
o — C li t h e nic
ra . n o . a s s .

E c t n e f F ig u e — Sh ou ld B c e s — H w t Acq u i e
re ss o r er ra o o r

Sl ping Sh u ld
o — C f t h e F e e t Th A t o f VV lk
o er s are o .
-
e r a ~

i g — P ic t u e q u e C
n . i g f So u t h e n Wo m e n
r s 35 ar r a e o r

C H A P T E R IV .

N . P Willi. s as a C i ic r t ofB e u t y Th e P e fu m e
a .
-
r of th e
P e e nc
r s e .
— Ch m ar of Go d C i c l t i o n
o C hi ll r u a .
-
s a re In
1] C ON T EN T S .

c i pi e n t C ng i
o est on — P pe a r C l o hin g t — L u x u r i es of th e
B hat .
— A Su b s t i t u t e f o r Se a B th a s .
— TO Se cu e F r ra

g n B h D 1ic
rat t — r ea . e at e De n t i h i c e s —F in e . C o o l gn —A e .

Li t f F g nc e
s o ra ra P ge 4 8 a

C H A P TE R V .

Mo ral s P in t of o a t T il t A r t an d P wd — A n iq u er . e o e s .

W hi n g t n L di
as M ki n g Up t h F c e — Whi t ning
o a es .
-
a e a e

t h e A m — T in t o f R u g — T M k F
r s ch R u g s o e o a e re n o e .

Mil k o f R — G e u z T in t — C e C mpl xi n
o ses . r e s o ar s o e o s

C u e d by P w d e C l f t h e Lip s — C y t l d
a s — o r . o or or r s a an

G ld H i P w d e
o —Dy ing Bl o nd Wig — T D k n
a r o r. e e s o ar e

t e H hn
h — C h mp gn d B l ck VV l t B k D m
a — a a e an a -
a nu ar . oo

o f t h e C mpl e xi n A t i t
o o r s .

C H A PT E R VI .

Reca mi e r ining Di n f P i t i e B t h
’

s Tra H igh . a a o o rs
’
a .

B u y of M t u i y
ea t t —T h W t h f B u y Ge g
t — a r . e or o ea or e

E li t o C ompl e xi n D C z e n v e —B l y P t f
o n — o s . r . a a . ar e as e or

t h e —
F c e P e s c ip i n
a t f t h R m n L di e — T R r r o s o e o a a s o e

m v e P impl s — C c ill VV h — V ni h f W inkl

o e . a s ar a as . ar s or r es .

—A c t ic Acid f C m e d o n e — To Re m v e M k — L d y
e or o s . o as a

M ry M o n t g u H bi t o f I t li n L di e — W h f
a a . a a a a s . as o

Vi t i lr o 70

C H A P T E R VII .

Shining P ll a F c eor l d
. e—L u str o u s
n F e ck l e s — Ti a s — Go r

g eLily Sp t s S P h t g ph
r -
o Ni t .Re m v un o o ra s . re o es

F ckl s O ld En gli h P e c i p t i n F Y ch t ing

re — e
— s r s r o . or a .

Alm nd O i l B u t t milk
o — -
C m e t ic Ro m y d
.
— er as a os . se ar an

G l y c e in —L t i n f P ickly H t F M q i t
r e .
— o o or r ea . or us u oe s .

P t e c t ing H i f m S A i —F hi n bl G y H i
ro a r ro ea r . as o a e ra a r .

—D k E y e ar d Silv H i T R t e D k Il i
s an er a r .
-
o es or ar a r .

— B nd lin e a C ld C e m Alm nd P m d e F r
o . o r a . o o a . o

Skin Di e a e s — Su l ph u ro u s A c id
s s . 77
 C ON TEN T S .

C H A P T E R V II I .

Se rv ic e of B u
V ni t y b t P f c i n
ea ty — No t f o r a ,
u er e t o .
—E e
y
~

b w f l t h L u a F hi n bl B t h
ro s o — ’
e r a rc —T im
’
s a r as o a e a s . 1

ming t e Ey e l h e L u x u y f t h e T o il t It M gn t
h — — as s r o e . s a e

i I n u nc
c fl — A S f St im u l n t — A m
e e u f th T i
. a e a . at e rs o e o

l t — C m t ic G l v e s — T Re fin t h Ski n f t h Sh u l
e os e o o e e o e o

d d A ms
e r s an — Su lph t e f Q u inin f r th H i F — a o e or e a r . or

t h Ey b o w
e d Ey e l h e
e — A H ml
r Dy e — T R
s an as s ar ess o e

m v e S ll w n e —A Hin t f St o u t P pl e —P f m d
o a o ss . or eo . er u e

B t hing p w d e
a -
o P ge 8 6 r a

C H A P T ER I X .

Ho p e f H m ely P e o pl e — Tw V i t l C h m — Th e l V y
or o . o a ar s a

t Li e
o — S n i e r d Op n Ai —Bl ch d by t h D w
u r s an e r . ea e e a n .

Liv e t Su nn \V i d w — I B lc ni e
a d P k y n o s . n a o s an ar s .

C h i t i n B k f t B w n St e k d G d h m
r s a a s
’
r ea as .
-
ro a an oo -
u or .

— T ue B d r— D vic e f St i ff Sh u ld rs C t
r ea — d e or o e o r se s a n

G i dl e —Th e L t t
r
. sm e Ne e d e d — Ho w t b e P l d
. . a er or o e ase

w t h O n e Se l f
’
1 s

CH APTER X .

Th e B nni o e st ! ate i Ch i
n nd m A W d
— r st e o . or to M ot h e rs

an d Aunt
s V ni i
t s — w f U gl v
— Di ff e r e n t
Th e S a e orro s o

VV m — Re cip e
o enf . A ci n t B u t y —S nd W h s o an n e ea . a as .

— C l f t h N il — E mb c t i n f t h e H nd
~
o or or e a s . ro a o or a s .

S p t Bl e ch t h
oa o — a —
A m F e ck l e L t i n s A t i t ic e r s r o o r s

E n t h u i sm a t t h e T il e t
s a o .

C H APTER X I .

A D k P ti n ar d T of tho F ce .
—O]1 ve o il -
an ar or e a .
— O l iv e
tar f I nh l t i n C b lic L t i n f P impl
or — a a
— Cu o . ar o o o or es . re

for Mu q i t Bi t e — P l Bl nd — A F nch M q u i e
‘

s u o s a e o es . re ar s .

— D e e p ning C l o by Su nligh t Se d u c t iv e C o m e tic

e o rs .
-
s s .

No se m chin e F inge T himb l e

-
a . 1 17 - r s
iv CO N TEN T S .

C H A PTER X II .

Re m o v a l E ffe c t f H igh Living

of Su pe r fl u o u s H ir a . s o .

W k f T y ph o id F v
or o — R m n Tw eze — L l M e er . o a e rs o a on

t ez s R cip e
’
— P t e Wo d h
f e — Bl ching A m
s as o o -a
s es . ea r s

w i t h C hl id — C u t i n b u t D pil t i — P u blic
or e . a o s a o e a or e s .

B t h s — I mp ving C o mpl xi n by t h Su lph u V

a ro e o s e r an e r
—
b t h H w A bi n W m n P f m e T h m lv
a . o ra a o e er u e se es .

P o f u e H ai Sign f N t u e B o u n t y
r s P ge 1 25
r, o a r
’

s a

C H A PTER X III .

Ma d am e C e l n ar t
’
s W k or s of the T o il e t .
—Li t e rat u r e of

Be u ty a . C
A t f C i tf d
a re s of th e T o il e t .
— r s o o u re an

L ci n g
a H w t H ld Ne dl G c e fu lly — I i P w d e
.
-
o o o a e e ra . r s o r

f Te
or —A tr f I t li
s se s \V m e — D pil t y u d
. r s o a an o n .
~
e a or se

i H
n m — S pi i
a re t f P y é t — H
s b.u e d b y G e k r o i re . er s s re

W m n Me xic n P m d e — D u ky P e f u m e d M bl es
— o e a o a s r ar

—
. . .

Lo t P e f u m e —Su l t n L t i n — B illi an t P t e f
s r s . a as
’
o o r as or

Ne ck d A m s — B king E n m e l
an r 13 4 a a

C H A PT E R X IV .

Th e L as t of B al nc es
the Ro se .
—W e ighing i n the a .
— To
Lo d t b Lo v d
ve a n f L ve
o It P w
— e e — Th e E nigm a o o . s o er

ve th L t f M —I n pi t i n in t h e L k — Th
_

o r e o o en . s ra o oo s e

a
—
L nd f Sp ing T D u ch h
o f D e v o n hir — \V m .
'

e e ss o s re . o en

a t d ft e T hi t y
an
— T ining f E m t i n W ming
a r— r . ra o o o ar

t h V ic
e — C w fee t t e O p
o t h e .
— B h mi n A r e nic
ro
’
s- a e ra o e a s

W t s — Re cip f m M d m e V e t i
’

a er M ilk f R e e ro a a s r s. -
o os s .

—Sw e t il — O p e —d nc e
e P e c ip t i n f Re t ing
-
o s . ra a rs
’
r s r o or s or

Su ppl e n s e s 14 6

C H A PT E R X V .

Th e F f l M l d y f w hich
ea r u Di a a o no on e es — Es
p ri t 0 d on ~
t a /g i q u e . I mp o t a n t t Sm k e
G ra y P as t ill e s . r o o rs .

M u t h P e rfu m es C e o f t h B ea t h — Di e c t i n
o
— ar e r . r o s fo r
a — —
B t hin g P e rfu m es fo r t h e B at h Ba zin s i t Q
P — .
’
c e . ua l
 C ON TEN T S .

i ty of ps So a — B a t hing an d An o in t ing t h e F ee t .
— Nic e t y
of St o cking s — D lic e ate Sh e Lining s — F t f P u lin
o ee o a e

Bon p t a ar e P g 15 5 a e

C H A P T ER X VI .

“
Th e Le v e e Fu ll f J y N bi l i t y f t h e B dy
a s ar o o .
”
-
o o o — 1

It P s ibili t i s — B i
oss d H e t D e p nd n t e it ra n an ar e e on .

P h y ic l C u l t u I mp e iv i Am ic
s a t — O C o n t mp t
re ra e n er a ur e

o f He l th — E i a t b M gni fic n t t h C l e n — Di
. a s er o e a e an a s

t ill e d W t f E v y U — Su b t i t u t e f St ill s — V p
a er or er se . s or a or

an d Su lph u B t h — B n B t h — O t me l f t h e
r a s . ra a s a a or

H nd s — F e q u ncy
a f B t h s — Re m e di e f o H e p t ic
r e o a s r a

Sp t o s

C H A P T E R X VII .

Th e B n t ing Sy m
a u in t A u t h o —T i l o f C p
ste .
—A Q a r . r a s or n

l e n y Re u l t f Living Sixp nc D y — I ndi ff nc

e . s o on e e a a e re e

o f D ct — A Wi S g n —R l t i n o f G l c
o o rs t se ur eo . e a o u o se o

O b e i t y Di t f St u t P pl — N St ch o Su g
—s e or o eo e o ar ,
n ar .

L ing F l e h t t h e R t f P u nd \Ve ck
os s Hu m
a a e o a o a . an

B n ea — Hu m
s .f B n t ing T c t — Hi G t i t d ors o a
’
s ra . s ra u e .

H n t o D H v y — O D y w i t h Dive t h e Ne x t
o ors r . ar e . ne a s,

wi t h L z s — B mid o f Amm ni
a ar u 175 ro e o a

C IIAPT ER X VIII .

A Let t e r Pl i n
.
— T r i al s o f B e t Hu b nd a a V o m am
V — Th e s s a

in h
t e VV l d B u d ck W h f t h e H i Fo C hil
or —
.
-
r o as or a r . r

d n II i — O il f M c
re
’
s St
a r im u l n
. t — T Re t e o a e as a a . o s or

C l t t h H i — Sp e m o i l P w f l H i R t
o or o e a r . r - a o er u a r e s ore r .

— Th C h e p t H i D
e — Cu f aC hilbl in
es— L a r~ e re or a s o o se
y . .

Sh oe t h C u s f C n — Py lign e u s A cid f C o n
e a se o or s ro o or r s

—T u p e n t in
. .

rd C b lic Acid f S ft Co s e an 185 ar o or o rn

C H A P T E R X IX .

A Ta l k b u t C mpl xi n
a o o e o s — De l ic at e L i n C u e of
ot o .
— a s

Ro u gh F c e s a — Su n P in t ing
a an d e —
Bl chin g C o u rt
a
 C ONTENTS .

L adi es Re fu ing t l V h t h e i F c e s — E xp e im e n t
s o as r a r s

w i O liv e t
t h — C n u mp t i n d C l F c — R -
ar . o s o an ea r a es . ev .

W H H Mu y
. . O liv t P c l in W m n
. rr a on e - ar .
-
or e a o e .

D w ing H m t t h Su f c e — VVh t i t b D
ra u ors o e r a a s o e one

f ort h e We k W m e n ? P g 19 2
a o a e

C H A P T E R XX .

S u l ph u B t h s Bl e ching O ld F c e — E xp e im e n t in
r a — a a s r s

B hing C u i n
t a— t o —Ne e d f P b li B t h s — T h i
. a s . o u c a e r

P p e P ic e
ro M e t h d f G iving Su lph u V p b t h
r r s . o o r a o r- a s .

— II t B t h fo H t Wea t l e — R u i n B t h t H m
a s or o 1 r . ss a a s a o e .

m
lmp m e t Ne e d e d i P u blic B t h
r o ve
'
—\V h t t h y
n s n a s . a e

Sh u ld b o —\V h t t h e y A e eTh e R u i n V p
. a r .
- - ss a a or a

b t h — A ft Se n t i n
a . B igh t n d L i gh t n
er -
f sa o s .
- r e ss an e ss o

H l th ea R v e nc e f . th P hy ic l —I fl
-
e f re or e s a . n u e nce o

B t hing n t h e Ne e
a d P o i n N c it y f rv s an a ss o s . e e ss o

Pu blic B at h s ‘

1 98

C HAP T E R XXI .

De vic e s of B e d P t e d C u t p l te
Un eas y A ge
'

.
— r a as an o r -
as r

t C nc eal W i nkl
o o — A cc p t ing t h e Si t u t i — P l i r es e a on a n

lV m o d Ag e e bl T i l t
en
— E x mpl
an The R r a e o e s . a es .
-
ec

t D u gh t
or s
’
— D ing o Tw H u nd d Y
a er . re s s n .
o re a e ar .

Ec u Li n d Whi t N — Wi f '

r k
ne A S t an e a n so o . ena or s e .

A \V hing t n Su cc
as — —
D u ll T hi F c e H y c l o d
o e ss , n a s . a - o re

H i A dv n t ge f Lining Roo m w i t h M i o
— a r . a 2l 2 a s o s rr rs .
'

C H A P T E R XX I I .

P hy ic l E d u c t i f G i l — A VV m a V l ue i t h ’
s a a on o r s . o n s a n e

VV l d —
orH igh b d F ig u
.
— An t iq u e R c s I n pi
— -
re res a e s ra

ti n o f A t t V ni t y
o Th — T ying A g
r D no a .
- e r e .
-
r e ss ,

F d d B t hing f Y u ng G i l A Ve t
oo ,
an — Cl
a or o r s o on o se

St u dy — B c . d B ckb —
d N v e T lk f G i l
ra e s an a o ar s . e r a o r s
’

F ling — E x ci f t h e A m Singi n g Sc l w i t h
ee s er se or r s -
a es

C e t s tf D e v el pm e n t o f t B u O p n w k C o
o rs — ho t —
. o e s . e -
or r

et th e Be t
s s — Th e B y d e f I ndi d th i F m
s a a er s o a an e r or s .
 C ON TEN T S . vi i

—Th e D el ic cy a d ue Y u ng Gi l
o r s —A F nk ra but Nee d e d
C uti
a on — C ar e o f the F ig u re a ft er Nu ing rs P ge a 2 24

C H A P T E R XX III .

Ha nd s an dC mpl xi n P p ing f P i — R fi i g
o e o s .
— re ar or ar t es e n n

Ro u gh F c — C b lic B h
a d C c ill
es ar o at s an as ar a .

G lyc i n W h
-
Sch l gi l
er F l u h d H nd
e d
as .
-
oo - r s
’
s e a s an

F c a —T S ft n t
es . h H nd R d N
— o — Sc t
o t e e a s e o se s e re s c

M ing p C l gn f t E y
k —a — h u — C m t ic G l v
. o o e or e es os e o es .

To I mp t B illi n t C mpl xi n
ar a 238
r a o e o

C HAPTER XXIV .

W m n L k
o e
’
d N v
s — A L w t on d G en e t i n
oo s an er es o - e ra o .

C hild n d t h i “ y B i f M dn s “ m m i
re — an — e r
r
a s r e a es 70 n

th W d e — Si gm g
oo — \V k w ll d n t h e E i t
s . n . or e o e as e s .

Sl p t h R m dy f
ee T mpe
— H u e f Sl p e— Th e or e er . o rs or ee

G e t rM e dicin
a — Su n hin e M u ic l V k d Sl e ep 2 4 7
es s ,
s ,
or ,
an .

C H A P T E R XX V
C h nging Wig d C hign n M t ching B id — F iz
a
— s an o s . a ra s r

zi g h H i
n — C imping pin B l nd H i pin
t e — a r .
~
r -
s . o e a r- s .

\V h C l H i Bl chi g T
at — —Su lph u P
o o rs a r . ea n r e sse s . r as t e .

—F o xy L ck s
o — Fr e sh e n i n a Swi t ch e s 25 7

C H A P T E R XX VI .

Ha i r C mpl xi n Bl ck Dy P i n Bl u Bl ck
an d o e o .
— a es — e rs a e -
a .

P xid f Hyd g
-
ero — Chl id G ld I i
f —
e o ro en or e o o .
' ‘
rans e n t

Dy e s .
 T HE U G LY G IR L PA P E RS - .

C HA P T ER I .

VVo m a n B u sin e s t o b e B e u t i f l — Ho w t o A cq u i e C l e r
’
s s a u r a a

—
.

o —
C mpl e xi on Regim n f P u i t y o f t h e B l o d C b o n
e or r o s ar

t
a e o f Amm o ni d P o w de e d C h r c o l
a an —St ippl e d Skin
r a a . s .

— F c e M k s O ily C mpl xi o n s —I i t t i n o f t h e
a — as o e . rr a o s

Ski m — Let t u ce C m et i c C ol ing D ink —S n

as a — os o r s . u

B t h s B ea d d M o l e
a -
r an ass s .

TIIE first r e quisit e in a wom a n to ward pl e as ~

i n g ot h e rs is t h a t sh e s h oul d b e pl e as e d w it h
h e rs e lf I n n o ot h e r w ay c an sh e a tt a in t h a t
.

s e lf po s e t h a t s a tisfa ction w h ic h l e a v e s h e
-
r
, ,
r

at lib e rty to d e vote h e rs e lf succ e ssfully to

ot h e rs .

I app e al to t h e u gly siste r h ood to kno w if

t h is is n o t so C ould a wom a n b e m ad e to
.

b e li e v e h e rs e lf b e a utiful it would go f ar to ,
10 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS
‘

wa rd m aki n g h e r so T h os e h op el e ss s h ri n k
.
,

ing souls ali v e wit h d e votion an d im agin ation

, ,

w it h h e arts a s fit to m ak e p a ssion at e a d w o r n

sh i e d lov e rs or st e a df ast a d i nspiring h e ro n

p ,

in e s as t h e fa ire st Ve nus of t h e se x n e e d not

, ,

for a inst an t b e li e v e t h e r e is n o a ll e vi atio n

n

for t h e ir c as e n o c h a n c e of m aking f ac e an d
,

figure more a ttra cti v e an d tru e r e xpon e nts of

t h e spirit w it h in .

T h e re is sc arc e ly an y t h ing i n t h e h istory

of wom e n more touc h ing t h an t h e h om ag e
p aid to b e auty by t h ose wh o h a v e it not N o .

sl a e a m o n g h e r t h rong of a dore rs appr e ci a t e d

v ‘

more k e e nly t h e be auty of R ec ami e r t h a n th e

sk e l e ton like i rri tabl e M ad a m e De C h at e a u
-
,

bri and Th e lov e lin e ss of a ri v a l e a ts i n to a

.

g i rl s h e ar t like corrosion ;e v e ry fa ir curling

’

h air e v e ry gra c e of outlin e is tr ac e d i n lin es

, ,

of fi r e o n t h e mind of t h e pl ain e r o n e a d r e ,
n

produc e d wit h m i c r o scOpi c fid e lity I t i s a .

w om a n s busin e ss to b e b e a utiful Sh e r e c
’
.

o m m e n d s e v e ry irtu e an d h e rois m by t h e
v

g r a c e w h ic h s e ts t h e m fort h Wom e n of ge n
.
12 TH E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

wi t is fi n e st a n d h e r h e a rt yie lds t h e ric h e st

,

we a lt h w h e n e xpe ri e nc e h a s form e d t h e f a i r
,

a d co lorl e ss m at e ri a l of yout h
n A s we e t girl .

of se v e nt ee n a n d a h ig h bre d b ea uty o f t h irty -

,

if we ll pre s e rv e d m ay dispute t h e pa l m I
,
.

do not m ea n to d ec ry ro se b uds n d d e w -
a .

O e h a rdly kn o w s w h ic h to lov e t h e m for

n

most t h e i lov e lin e ss or t h e i brie fn e ss But

— r r .

wo m e n wh o loo k t h e ir t h irtie s i t h e fa c e
'

s h ould not l y d o w n th e sce ptre of life or

a ,

fa ncy t h a t its d e lig h ts f o t h e m a re ov e r r .

T h e y a e young whil e t h e y s e e m yo ung

r .

T h e n we m ay bo ld ly se t about r e nov ating

t h e out wa rd form sure t h t N a tu e w ill r e
,
a r

sp e nd to o e fforts Th e e sse nce of b e a ty

ur . u

is h e a l t h ; but all a pp a r e ntly h e alt h y p eo pl e

a e not f a i
r Th e typ e of t h e syste m m ust b
r . e

consid e re d i n tr e atm e nt Th e brun e tt e is usu .

a lly built u p of m uc h iron a d t h e bilious ,

n

se c e tion is sluggis h Th e blond e is a pt to

r .

b e dysp e ptic a d subj e ct to disturb a nce s of

,
n

t h e blood From t h e se c us e s r e sult fre ckl e s

. a ,

pi m pl e s an d t h at co ar s e ind e nt e d ski n s hip

, ,
 LI M I T OF APPETITE . 13

l ed w it h punctur e s lik e tissu e of pig skin

th e
p
-
,

—a f a ult of m any ot h e r wis e cl e ar compl e x

ions .

Th e fair e s t ski ns b e long to p e opl e in t h e

e a rli e st st ag e of consumption or t h os e o f a
'

scrofulous n atur e T h is mir aculous cl e ar ne ss

.

a n d brilli a nc e is d u e to t h e const ant purg a tion

w h ic h w ast e s t h e consumptiv e or to t h e issu e ,

w h i c h r e li e v e s t h e sy st e m of impuriti e s by o e n

outl e t We m ust s e cure purity of t h e blo o d

.

by l e ss e x h au sti v e m e t h ods Th e di e t s h ould

.

b e r e gul at e d a ccording to t h e h abit of t h e

p e rson I f stout sh e s h ould e at as littl e as
.
,

wil l s a tisfy h e app e tit e ;n e v e r allo wing h e r

r

s e lf h o we v e r to ris e from t h e t abl e h ung y

, ,
r .

A f e w d ays r e solut e d e ni al w ill s h o w h o w

’

m uc h r e ally is n e e d e d to k e e p u p t h e str e ngt h .

W h e n r e cov e ring from s e v e r e n e rvous prostr a

tion y e ars ago t h e write r found h e app e tit e
, ,
r

g on e T. h e l e a st mors e l s atisfi e d h ung e r a d ,

n

m or e prod c e d a r e pugn anc e sh e n e v e r tri e d

u

to ov e rcom e Sh e re sum e d study six h ours a

.

d av an d walk e d t wo m il e s e v e ry d ay from t h e
14 T HE U G LY GIRL PAPERS .

suburbs to th e c e ntr e of t h e city a d b a ck ,

n

ag a in Bre kf st usu ally wa a sm al l s a uc e r

. a a s

of str a wb e ri e s a d o e G ra h a m cr ack e r an d
r n n
,

w a s not infr e qu e ntly disp e ns e d w it h altog e t h e r .

L unc h wa s h alf a or ange for th e burde n of

— n

e a ting t h e ot h e r h alf w as not to b e t h oug h t

of ;a d at six o clock a h a ndful of c h e i e s

n
’
rr

form e d a p l e ntiful d inn e r O nc e a we e k h e . s

did cra v e som e t h ing lik e b e e f ste ak or soup -

,

an d took it But guiding h e rs e lf w h olly by

.
,

a pp e tit e sh e foun d w it h surpris e t h a t h e r

,

str e ngt h r e m a in e d st e ady h e n e rv e s gre w ,

r

c alm an d h e abil i ty to study was n e v e r b e t

,
r

ter . T h is is no r l e for a y o n e fart h e r t h au n

,
n

to say p e rsons of we ll d v e lop e d p h ysiqu e -

e

n e e d not fe a r an y limit ation of di e t for a

ti m e w h ic h do e s n o t t e ll o t h e stre ngt h a d n n

is approv e d by appe ti te N e v e r e at too muc h ; .

n e v e r go h ungry .

F or we ak dige stion not h ing i s so r e lis h e d o r

str e ngt h e ns so m c h as t h e ric h b e e f t e a or

u ,

r at h e r gr a y pre p e d from t h e b e e f j e lly sold

v
,
ar -

by fi r t r t e groc e rs T h is is v y diffe r e nt
s
-
a . er
 DIFFEREN C E IN DIE T . 15

fro m th e xtr acts of b e e f m ad e by c h e mists

e ,
"

Th e cond e ns e d b e e f pr e p a r e d by t h e sa m e
comp ani e s w h ic h s e nd out t h e co nd e ns e d
m ilk is pr e fe r abl e i n all r e sp e cts as to t as t e
, ,

an d nouris h m e nt A t abl e spoo n ful of t h is

.
-

j e lly d i ssol ve d h y pouring a cup of boiling

,

wa t e r o n it a n d dr ank w h e n cool w ill giv e a s

, ,

muc h str e ng t h a s t h r e e fo u rt h s o f a poun d of !

b e e f st e ak broil e d F or singe rs a n d stud e nts

-
.

wh o n e e d a lig h t but str e ngt h e ning di e t not h ,

ing is so a dmir abl e .

Ne rvous p e opl e an d s ang u in e on e s s h ould

, ,

a dopt a di e t of e ggs fis h soups an d s al ads

, , , ,

w it h fruit T h is cools t h e blood an d l e a v e s

.
,

t h e str e ngt h to s u pply t h e n e rv e s inst e a d of

t axing t h e m to dig e st h e a vy pre p ar a tions .

Lymp h atic p e opl e s h ould e sp e ci ally pr e fe r

suc h l i v e ly s al ads as cr e ss p e pp e r gr ass h ors e
,
-
,

r adis h an d must ard T h e s e ar e n atur e s cor

,
.
’

r e c t i e s a d s h ould app e a r o n t h e t abl e from

v n
,

M arc h to N ov e mb e r to b e e at e not m e r e ly
,
n

as r e lis h e s but a s sti m ul a ting an d b e n e fici a l

,

food T h e y stir t h e blood an d cl e ar t h e eye

.
,
16 T HE UGLY GIR L P APERS .

an d b r ai n
fro m t h e h umors of spring N e rv .

ous p e opl e s h ould b e mor e sp aring of t h e se

fi e ry d e lig h ts an d e at abund ntly of gold e n
,
a

l e ttuc e w h ic h cont a ins opi um i n its mo st d el i

,

c at e an d l e ast inj uri ous st at e Th e qu e stion .

of f at m e a t do e s not s e e m s atisfa ctorily se t

t le d . I s h ould compound by using ric h soups
w h ic h con ta in t h e e ss e nc e of m e ats an d sup ,

ply c arbon by s al ad oil a n d a fre e se o f n u t s u .

or cre a m P l ump f air p e opl e m ay l e t oil y

.
,

m att e rs of all kinds c are fully alon e T h in .

—
on e s s h ould e at v e g e t abl e s 1f t h y c an fi n d e a

cook wh o kno ws h o w to m ak e t h e m p al at abl e .

I t is str ang e t h at i n t h is country w h ic h pro ,

du ce s t h e fin e st e g e t abl e s fit for t h e e n vy of
v
,

for e ign cooks not o n e ou t of a h undr e d kno ws

,

h o w to pr e p ar e t h e m prop e rly P e opl e wh o

“

a e a n xious to b e rid of fl e s h s h ould c h oos e

r

a cids l e mons lim e s a n d t a m arinds e a t sp a r

, , , ,

i gly of d r y m e at s w it h cra ck e rs inst e ad of

'

n ,

br e ad an d follo w stri ctly t h e a dvic e n o w

,

gi v e n .

T o cl ear t h e com p l e x i on or r e d u c e t h e si ze ,
 TONIc s INEFFE CT UA L .

th e blood m us t b e car e fully cl e ans e d Two .

simpl e c h e mic als s h ould ap pe ar on e v e ry toi

l e t t a bl e — t h e c arb o n at e o f a mmoni a an d po w
-

d e r e d c h arco al No co s m e ti c h as m o re f r o
.

q u e nt us e s t h an t h e s e Th e a mmoni a m ust .

b e k e pt in gl ass wit h a gl ass sto p p e r fro m ,

t h e ai F r e n c h c h arco a l i s pr e fe rr e d by p h y
r .

si i a s as it is mor e fi n e l r o u n d a n d a l a rg e
'

c n
, y g ,

bottl e of i t s h ould b e k e pt o n h and I n c as e s .

of d e bility an d al l w as ting disord e rs i t i s al v

u a b le To cl e a r t h e compl exion t ak e a t e a
.
,

Spoonf l of c h arco al we ll m ix e d i n wat e r or

u

h on e y for t h r e e n g h ts t h e n u se a simpl e pur

i
,

t i e to r e mov e it from t h e syst em

v I t a cts
ga .

l i ke c alom e l w it h n o b ad effe cts purifyin g t h e

, ,

blood mor e e ff e ctu ally th an an y t h ing e lse .

But som e simpl e a pe ri e nt m ust not b e omit

t e d o r t h e c h a rco al w ill r e m ain i n t h e syst e m
, ,

a m ass of f e st e ri ng poison wit h all t h e i mpuri ,

ti e s i t absorbs A ft e r t h is cours e of pu r i fi ca
.

tion t On i c s m ay b e u s e d Many p e opl e s e e m

,
.

not to kno w t h a t protoxid e of iron m e dic ate d

'

win e a n d br acing m e dicin e s ar e u s e l ess

“ ”
,
18 THE UGLY GIRL PA PER S .

w h e n th e i m puriti e s r e m ain i n t h e blood .

Th e u se of c h ar co al is d a ily b e tte r u nd e rstood

by our b e st p h ysici ans an d it is po we rf l an d
,
u
,

S mpl e e noug h to b e h andl e d by e v e ry h ous e

i

h old Th e purifying proc e ss unl e ss t h e h e alt h

“
,

is un us u ally good m ust b e r e p e t e d e v e ry

,
a

t h r e e mon t h s We absorb i n b ad food an d

.

a i r m or e u n profit abl e m a tt e r t h a n n atur e c a n

t h ro w off i n t h a t tim e I f di e t an d atmos

.

h e w e re p e rf e ct no suc h a i d w ould b e
p r e ,

n e e de d ; but i t is t h e c h oic e b e t we e n a e v v r

gr e at an d a sm all e vil in e xisting conditions .

A fre e u s e of tom ato e s an d figs is by t h e way ,

r e comm e nd e d to m aint ain a h e alt h y condition

,

of t h e stom ac h an d t h e s e e ds of e it h e r s h oul d
,

n o t b e disc ard e d .

Th e m ost t roubl e som e t as k is to r e fin e a

s t ripp l ed ski n w h os e oil gl ands a r -
l arge an d
e

co ars e T h e r e m ay n o t b e a pimpl e or fr e ckl e

.

o n t h e f a c e an d t h e te mpl e s m ay b e smoot h
, ,

but t h e nos e an d c h e e ks look lik e a pin cus h -

ion from w h ic h t h e pins h a v e j ust b e e n

drawn P ati e nc e an d m any appli cations ar e
.
20 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PE RS .

at nig h t an d was h wit h a solution of ammoni a

,

in th e morning .

Blond e s wh o ar e unb e autiful ar e apt to

h a v e di v e rs i rrit ations of t h e sk i n w h ic h t h e ir
,

d a rk e r n e ig h bors do not kno w Pe opl e of .

t h is type also h a v e a t e nd e ncy to acid stom

a c h s t h e a ntidot e for w h ic h is a dos e of am
,

moni a say o e qu art e r of a spo onful i n h alf a

,
n

gl ass of wat e r t ak e n e v e ry n ig h t a n d morning

,
.

T h is also pre v e nts d e c ay of t h e t e e t h a n d

s we e t e ns t h e bre at h an d is l e ss inj urious t h n
,
a

t h e sod a an d m agn e si a m any l a di e s se for u

a cid stom a c h s I n summ e r t h e syste m s h ould

.

b e k e pt cool by b a t h ing at nig h t a d morn ing n

,

an d by t a rt drinks cont a ining cr e a m of f a t ar l .

S m all qu antiti e s of n itre pr e scrib e d by t h e

,

p h ysici an m ay b e t ak e n by v e ry s anguin e pe
,
r

sons wh o su ffe r w it h h e a t ;but p al e compl e x

ions s h ould s e e k t h e s u n w h e n its po we r is n ot
too gr e a t a d b e c ar e ful of al l t h ings to a void
,
n , ,

a c h ill . T h is d e a d e ns t h e skin p aints blu e cir

,

cl e s ro u nd t h e ey e s an d l ea v e s t h e h ands an
,

u nc e rt a in color .
 MAGNOLIA C OMPLE XIONS . 21

T h e s e pre c a utions m ay s e e m burd e nsom e ,

but t h e y al l h a v e b e e n pr actic e d by t h os e wh o
priz e b e a uty N ot h ing is so a ttra cti v e so sug
.
,

e st i e of purity of mind a d e xc e ll e nc e of n
g v

body as a cl e a r fi n e gr a in e d Skin Strong

, ,
-
.

color is not d e sir abl e Tints r a t h e r t h an col

.
,

ors b e st pl e as e t h e r e fin e d e ye i n t h e c o m
,

pl e xion S om e mot h e rs a e so anxious to se

. r

cur e t h is gr a c e for t h e ir d aug h t e rs t h at t h e y

a e k e pt o n t h e strict e st di e t fro m c h ild h ood
r .

Th e most d zzling P a ri a n could not b e mor e

a

b e autifu l t h n t h e c h e e k of a c h ild I onc e

a

s aw wh o was k e pt o n o at m e al porridg e f o -
r

t h is e ff e ct A t a bo arding sc h ool I r e m e mb e r
.
-
, ,

a fas h ion abl e mot h e r ga v e strict inj unctions

t h a t h e d a ug h t e r s h ould to u c h not h ing but
r

bro wn br e ad an d syrup T h is was h ard far e ;

.

but t h e c a mm e lips an d m agnoli a bro w of

r

t h e young l ad y we r e t h e e n vy of h e r sc h ool

m at e s wh o h o we v e r we re not courag e ous

'

, ,

e nough to att e mp t su c h a r e i m e for t h e m

g
s e lv e s .
 TH E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

C HAP T ER II .

C are of t h e H ai r .
—
Wh e t o C t i t C hild n H i re
’

s a r .
— n u .

— A mm o ni W h e — G lyc e in e a d Amm ni — P
as s . r an o a . o

m d
a H w t B u h th e H i
es .
- o C ut t ing t h E nd
o r s a r .
-
e s .

—G e m n M e t h o d o f T t ing t h e H i —S u t h e n w d
r a
’

r ea a r . o r oo

Pom d — H i D a e .
—Dy e in g t h e E y b w
a r- d Ey e
y es . e ro s an

l h
as esu
S ep fl
. u u H i D e pi l t i
a o e
r s — VV h e f
o s a r . r . as s or

t h e Ey l he d E eb w
e as s an v ro s .

ST . P AUL
pprov e d h i m s e lf no l e ss a con
a

n o i sse u r of f e m al e b e a uty t h a n a c e nsor of d e

corum w h e n h e w rot e I f a w om an h a v e long ,

“

h air it is a glory to h e
,
T h is is in no wis e r

i nconsiste nt wit h t h e ot h e r apostolic p ass age

w h ic h d iscour ag e s orn at e h a ir dre ssing for -
,

a bund a nt s h in ing h a ir n e e ds l e ss c a r e to a r

r ang e t h a n a sc anty crop t h at must b e dis

pos e d t O t h e b e st a d ant ge Th e wom an v a .

w h os e m agnific e nt c h e v e lu e r e a c h e s to h e r r

wa ist t h ick s on e s w ris t w h e n tig h tly bound

’
,
a ,

n e e ds no b a id nor c at ar act fi ge pu ff n orr

,
n r-
 W O M EN S DO WRY
’
OF HAIR . 23

sno w curl o b and of gold or a mb e r t o cro wn

-
,
n r

h e rs e lf E v e ry gi l oug h t to h a v e suc h h ir
. r a .

M ot h e rs s h ould r e m e mb e r t h a t su c h gifts of
n atur e fo m a do wry w h ic h h as no littl e
r

we ig h t i t h e incid e nts of a wom a s life a d

’
n n n
,

s h ould cultiv at e assiduously t h e locks of t h e ir

d a ug h te rs I t i s not b e st to ke e p t h e m clos e ly
.

cut : a ft e r fi e ye a rs t h e y s h ould n e v e r b e
v

touc h e d by scissors s a v e to clip t h e e nds onc e

,

a mont h a s h e re ft e r e xpl a in e d but s h ould b e

,
a
,

smoot h ly br aid e d in long Ma rgue rite pl a its ,

t h e most conv e i e n t styl e unl e ss t h e mot h e r

n
,

is a mbitious of se e ing h e r p e t s h a ir i n curls ’

.

H ardly an y locks w ill r e sist good disciplin e ,

if t ake n i t h e do wny st ag e of infancy a d

n n

submitte d to pa pillote s I t is a mistak e n 0

. 11

tio n t h a t a l u xuri an t gro wt h of h air i n c h ild

h ood weak e ns t h e h e ad N atur e is not i n t h e
.

h abit of providing supe rfl uiti e s Th e B e ton . r

wom e n a e not e d for t h e ir m agnific e nt h a ir

r ,

w h ic h i s allo w e d to gro w fro m c h ild h ood .

Th e b arb a ri ty of t h e fi e comb s h ould b n e

a bolis h e d i ci viliz e d n u s e ri e s a d a d ily or

n r ,
n a
24 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

s e mi we e kly w as h wit h a mmoni a or so ap s b

-
u ~

stitut e d w it h a t h oroug h brus h ing aft e r w d

,
ar .

A c h ild s h e ad is too t e nd e r for a y r asping

’
n

proc e ss ; e v e knott e d sn a ls s h ould b cut

n r e

r at h e r t h a n pull e d out S e nd t o w h e a d e d c h il
.
-

dre n into t h e s n a muc h s possibl e t h at its

u s a ,

r ays m ay affe ct e v e y p a rti l of t h e iron i

r c e n

t h e blood a d c h a ng e t h e fl
,
n e colors to ax n

mor e ag e e abl e s h ad e s
r .

W h e n t h e h air h as b e e n n e gl e ct e d cut it to a ,
n

ev e n l e ngt h an d was h t h e sc alp nig h tly w it h sof t

,

w a t e r into w h ic h a mmoni a h s b e e n pour e d a .

T h is m ay b e as str ong as possibl e at first so

’

t h a t it do e s n o t burn t h e skin A ft e r wa d . r

t h e proportions m ay b e t h r e e l a rg e spoonfuls

of a mmoni a to a b a sin of wat e r A pply wi t h .

a brus h ,
stirring t h e h air we ll w h il e t h e h e ad
is p arti ally i mm e rs e d D o t h is a t nig h t so . ,

t h at it m ay h a v e a c h anc e to dry for not h ing ,

is so dis agr e e abl as h air put up w e t d

e an

tu n e d m usty Wring a d wip e it t h oroug h

r . n

ly ,
t h e n co m b a d s h akne o t t h e tr e ss e s
u in a

d f t of i r till n e a rly dry w h e n it m ay b e

ra a ,
 S TIMULUS FOR T HE HAIR . 25

don e up a cotton in N ig h t c aps h e at t h e

n et .
-

h e a d n d n j ur e h a ir
a I A mmoni a is t h e most .

h e alt h ful an d e ffi ci e nt stimulus kno wn for th e

h a r a d quick e ns its gro wt h w h e not h ing
i
,
n n

e ls e w ill do so A h e alt h y syst e m w ill supply

.

oil e noug h for th e h a r f t h e h e d is k e pt i I a

cl e a n I f t h e sc alp i s unn at rally d y a mixt

'

. u r
,

u e
r of h lf a ounc e of c bon t e of m
a n ar a a

moni a i n pi t of s w e e t oil m ak e s t h e most

a n -

e st e e m e d h a i in vigo tor G lyc e in e a d m

r ra . r n a

moni a m ak d lic te d e ssing for t h e h ir

e a e a r a ,

an d w ill not soil t h e nic e st bonn t P om ad e s e .

of all kinds a e vot e d vulga r a d j ustly Th e

r
,
n .

only e xcus e f o t h e i se is j ust b fore e nt e r

r r u e

ing e a b t h w h e a t h o ough oiling of t h e

a s a ,
n r

h ai pr e v e n ts inj u y f om s alt w a t e r I t
r r r .

s h ould b e sp e dily w s h e d off wit h dilutio n

e a a

of a m moni a .

W h e a gro wt h of young h a ir is e st blis h e d

n a

it oug h t to l e ngt h e a t l e ast e ig h t inc h e s n a

y e i a vigo ous subj e ct H ir is a ind e x

ar n r . a n

of vit lity Th e wom e n of t h e tropics w it h

a .
,

t h e ir a bounding h e a l t h h a v e luxuri ant c h e v e ,

~
26 T H E U GLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

l ur e s . A mong S p anis h an d S out h A m e ric an

wom e n h a ir a va rd long i n a coil as t h ick as ,

t h e wrist is t h e rul e an d not th e e xc e ption

, , .

Th e warmt h of t h os e l a ti tud e s f a vors t h e se

c re t i o s a n d sti m ul a t e s e v e ry org an to i t s ful l
n
,
~

e s t d e v e lopm e nt To obt ai n lik e r e sults we

.
,

mus t t y to obt ai n t h e s a m e conditions of lux

r

ur i a n t h e alt h A good circul a tion i s e ss e nti al

.

to fin e n e ss an d pl e asing color of t h e h a ir .

Th e sc a lp must b e stimul a t e d by fre qu e nt

’

brus h ing as we ll s by t h e a mmoni a b t h

,
a a .

A l d of f s h io d e cre e d o n e h und e d strok e s

a v a n r

of th e brus h to b e gi v e n h e r c e l e br at e d locks
d a ily a d t h os e wh o h a v e tri e d t h e e pe r i
,
n x

m nt fi d t h t i t is not a t a ll too m uc h
e n a Gi . v

en quickly t h is n umb e r occupi e s t h r e e min

,

u te s in b e sto wing a d sur e ly t h is is littl e

,
n

e oug h tim e to giv e a fi e h e a d of h a ir

n O nc e
n .

a mont h t h e nds of t h e h air s h ould b e cut to

e ,

r mov e t h e fo k e d e nds w h ic h stop its gro wt h

e r ,
.

Th e p atrons of a c e rt a in Ne w Y ork sc h ool of

h ig h r e put e will r e m e m b e r t h e young d a gh u

t e of a A lb a n y g ntl m a n w h os e wond e rful

r n e e ,
28 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS .

a lmond or oli v e oil fla vore d wit h mild pe

,
r

fum e R ub a sm al l qu a ntity of t h is o n t h e
.

skin of t h e h e ad aft e r it h as b e e n was h e d as

a bov e . T h is m ay b e e ffici e n t b t i t h is age
,
u n

wom e n pr e fe r t h e cl e a nli e r m e t h od of stim a

l a ting t h e h a ir wit h out pom ad e .

I f an y l adi e s a e as fond of stirring u p cos

r

m e tics a d wa s h e s as we r e t h e w ife an d d u gh
n a

t rs of t h e Vic a r of Wak e fi e l d t h e y m ay try

e ,

t h e se h ig h ly r e comm e nd e d r e cip e s
Th e follo wing is s a id to b e a n e xc e ll e nt curl
ing fluid : P ut t wo pounds of common so ap
cut sm all into t h r e e pints of spirits of win e ,

a n d m e lt tog e t h e r sti ring wit h a cl e a n pi e c e

,
r

of wood a d d e ss e nc e Of a mb e rgris citron an d , ,

n e roli about a qu art e r of a n ounc e of e ac h

,
.

R o wl and s M ac ass ar O i l for th e h air : T ak e

’

a qu art e r of a n ounc e of t h e c h ippings of alk a

n o t root t i e t h is i n a bit of co a rs e m uslin a n d

, ,

suspe nd it in a j ar cont a ining e ig h t ounc e s of ’

s we e t oil for a we e k cov e ring from t h e dust

-
,
.

A dd to t h is sixty drops o f t h e tinctur e of c a n

t h ar i d e s t e n d rops of oil of ros e n e ro l i a d

, ,
n
 INNO X IO US H A IR DYES -
. 29

l e mon ea c h sixty drops Le t t h e s e st and t h re e

.

we e ks clos e ly cork e d an d y o u w ill h av e o n e

,

of t h e most po we rful sti m ul ants for t h e gro wt h

of th e h air e v e r kno w n .

Tak e a pou n d an d a h alf of so ut h e rn wood

a n d boil it slig h tly br u is e d i n a qu a rt of old
, ,

oliv e oil wit h h alf a pint of port win e or spir

-
,
-

it W h e n t h oroug h ly boil e d stra i n t h e oil

.
,

c a r e f u lly t h ro u g h a lin e n clot h R e pe a t t h e .

op e ra tion t h r e e tim e s wit h fr e s h sout h e rn wood ,

a n d a dd t w o ounc e s of b e a r s gr e as e or fr e s h
’

l a rd Apply t wic e a we e k to t h e h air an d

.
,

brus h it i n we ll .

W h e r e a h ir d ye is d e e m e d e ss e nti al t h e
a -
,

d e plorabl e w ant m ay b e m e t by t h is re cip e ,

w h ic h h as t h e m e rit of b e ing l e ss h a rmful

t h an m o s t o f t h e nostrums i n u s e : Boi l e qu a l

p a rts of in eg a r l e mon j n ce an d po wd e re d
v
,
-
i ,

lit h a rge for h alf an h ou r o v e r a sl ow fi e in a ,

r ,

p o r c e l ai n l i n e d
s
e ss e lvW e t t h e.h ai r w it h t h is

d e coction an d in a s h ort tim e it will turn

,

bl ack .

L ol a M onte z giv e s a h a ir d ye w h ic h i s s aid -

30 THE UGLY G I RL PA PERS
-
.

to b e inst ant an e ous an d as h a rml e ss as an y

,

min e ral d ye us e d I t is m ad e fro m gallic

.

a cid t e n gr ains ;a c e tic a ci d o n e ounc e

, ,
tinc
ture of s e squic h lorid e of iron o n e ounce D is ,
.

sol v e t h e g allic a cid i n t h e se squic h lorid e an d ,

a d d t h e a c e tic a ci d . W as h t h e h a ir wit h so a p
an d wa t e r a n d a pply t h e d e by dipping a
, y
fi n e comb i n it an d dr awing t h rough t h e h ai r
so a s to color t h e roots t h oroug h ly Le t it .

d ry ;oil a n d brus h .

W h ite l as h e s a n d e y e bro ws are so dis agre e

a bly sugg e st i v e t h a t o n e c a n n o t bl a m e t h e ir

poss e ssor for disguising t h e m by a h arml e ss

d e vic e A d e coctio n of wa lnut j uic e s h ould
.
-

b e m ad e i n t h e s e as on an d k e pt i n a bottl e for
,

u se t h e y e a r round I t is to b e a ppli e d w it h
.

a sm all h a i r pe ncil to t h e bro ws an d l a s h e s ,

turning t h e m to a ric h bro wn w h ic h h a rmon ,

iz e s w it h fair h a ir I t m ay b e appli e d to t h e
.

e dg e of t h e h air about t h e fa c e a n d n e ck w h e n ,

t h a t is p al e r t h an t h e r e st Le t m e r e p e a t
.

t h at t h e b e st r e m e dy f ill us e d tr e ss e s is
or -

strict c are ;glossy v it ali ze d tre ss e s k e pt in o

, ,
r
 Ho w TO WE A R RED H A IR . 31

der by const ant brus h ing a ssum e b y d e g re e s

,

a b e tt er co l or . I t i s a mist ak e to so ak r e d
h a ir wit h oil in t h e h Ope of m aking it d a rke r ;
it s h ould b e k e pt wa vy an d lig h t as possibl e ,

to s h o w off t h e ric h lig h ts an d s h ado ws wit h

w h ic h i t abounds Th e su n h as a good e ffe ct
.

o n obnoxious s h ad e s of h a ir if it is ot h e r wis e
.

w e ll att e nd e d to an d r e d or w h it e locks s h ould

,

b e worn in flo a ting m ass e s wa v e d by fi n e pl a it

,

ing at nig h t or by crimping pins w h ic h d o n o t

,
-
,

inj ur e h air u nl e ss worn too tig h t P al e h air .

s h o ws a wa nt of iron in t h e syste m an d t h is i s ,

to b e suppli e d by a fr e e u se of b e e f st e aks -
,

so ps pur e b e e f gra vi e s an d r e d w in e s S alt

u
, ,
.

w a t r b a t h ing str e ngt h e ns t h e syst e m an d a cts

e
,

fa vorably on t h e h a ir A S to color h ardly a ny

.
,

s h ad e is unlov e ly w h e n luxu ri ant an d i n a liv e

ly condition . I t i s only w h e n dis e as e d or n u
c a re d for t h at an y color app e ars dis agr e e abl e .

S andy h a ir w h e n we ll brus h e d an d k e pt glossy

,

wit h t h e n a tur al oil of t h e sc alp c h an g e s to a,

w a rm gol d e n ting e I h a v e s e e n a most o h

.

noxious h e ad o f t h is color so c h ange d by a

 32 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

f ew y rs
ea c a r e t h at i t b e c a m e t h e admir ati o n
’

Of t h e o wn e r s f i e nds a d could h a rdly b e

’
r n
,

re cogniz e d as t h e w it h e r e d fi e ry loc ks onc e

,

worn .

Su pe rfi u o u s h air is as troubl e som e to t h o se

wh o h a v e it as b aldn e ss is to ot h e r s T h e re .

i s n o way to r e mov e it but by dilut e a cids or

c a ustics p ati e ntly appli e d tim e afte r tim e as
, ,

t h e h a ir m ak e s its a pp e a r a nc e Th e m ild e st .

d e pil ato ri e s kno w n are p arsl e y wa t e r a c a ci a ,

j uic e an d t h e gu m of i vy I t is s aid t h at n u t
’

,
.

o il W ill pr e v e nt t h e h a ir from gro w ing Th e .

j uic e of t h e milk t h istl e m ix e d wit h o il a o

-
, ,

cording to m e dic al a ut h ority pr e v e nts t h e h a ir ,

from gro wing t oo l o w on t h e for e h e ad or ,

s tr aggling on t h e n ap e of t h e n e ck A s Wil .

lis s ays N ature oft e n Slig h ts t h is p art of h e r

,

m ast e rpi e c e M uri a tic a cid v e ry slig h tly e

.
,
r

d u ce d a ppli e d w it h a s a bl e p e ncil will d e stroy

, ,

t h e h a ir ;an d to pr e v e nt i ts g o wing t h e p rt
,
r ,
a

m ay b e oft e n b at h e d w it h strong c amp h or or

cl e ar a m m m a Th e l a tt e r w ill s e rv e as a d e
o ;
~

p i l at o r
y but
,
c a us e s gr e a t p a in an d must b e ,
 DEPIL ATORIES . 33

quickly was h e d o ff Th e d e pil atori e s sold in

.

t h e s h ops ar e strong c a ustics an d l e a v e t h e ,

ski n v e ry h ard a d unpl e as ant B at h e t h e

n .

upp e r lip or ot h e r fe atur e affl ict e d wit h s u

,

e fl u o u s h air wit h a mmoni a or c a m p h or as

p r
, ,

strong as c an b e born e a n d t h e h air will d ie ,

Ou t i n a f e w we e ks M ol e s wit h long h a irs

.
,

i n t h e m S h oul d b e touc h e d W it h lun a r c a ustic

,

r e p e ate dly A l a rg e d ark mol e on a l ady s

.
,
’

n e ck was re duc e d to an u nnotic e abl e w h it e

spo t but t h e n itr at e of silv e r c a us e d a sore
,

for a we e k i n pl a c e of th e mol e C ar e s h ould .

b e t ake n to brus h t h e b a ck h a ir up wa rd from

c h ild h ood to pr e v e nt t h e disfig u ring gro wt h
,

of we ak loos e h a irs on th e n e ck F in e cl e an
,
.

wood as h e s m ix e d w it h a littl e wat e r to form

-
,

a p ast e m ak e s a tol e rabl e d e pil atory for

,

we ak h a ir w it h out an y p a in
,
S trong p e arl as h .

was h e s also kill out poor h a ir

‘

A cl e v e r sci e ntific m an sugg e st e d t h a t t h e

gro wt h of h air mig h t b e h aste n e d by fr e qu e nt
ly a pplying e l e ctric curr e nts to i t or b a t h i n g ,

it in e l e ctric al wat e r Simil ar e x p e rim e nts

.
34 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS .

h a v e b e e n m ad e on it al tissu e s wit h r e m a k
v r

a bl e succ e ss But t h is th e ory m ust b e l e ft for

.

fu rt h e r d e v e lopm e nt .

Th e e y e l as h e s m ay b e improv e d by d e lic at e
ly cutting o ff t h e i r fork e d a n d goss am e r poin ts ,

a n d a nointing w it h a s alv e of t w o dr a c h ms of

ointm e nt of n itric oxid e of m e rcury a d o n e n

d r ac h m of l a rd . M i x t h e l rd a n d ointm e nt
a

we ll an d anoint t h e e dg e s of t h e e y e lids nig h t

,

a n d In o r n i n w a s h ing af t e r e ac h tim e w it h
g ,

w a r m milk an d wa t e r T h is i t is s aid w ill

.
,

r e stor e t h e l as h e s w h e n lost by dis e as e Th e .

e ff e ct of bl ack l as h e s is to d e e p e n t h e color of

gray e ye s T h e y m ay b e d a rk e n e d for t h e at
.

r i c al s by t aking t h e bl a ck of fr ankinc e ns e ,

re sin an d m as tic burn e d tog e t h e r T h is wi ll

,
.

not com e o ff wit h pe rsp irat i on .

36 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

som e mod e ls of suc h r e fin e d proportions an d

suc h informing spirit t h at t h e y fall a t onc e
into t h e curv e s of gra c e ;but t h e s e ar e m e ant
for mod e ls an d h a ppily n ot h ing forbids t h ose
,

of l e ss e r m e rit to atte mpt t h e s am e l e sson A r e .

n ot som e bor n m ast e s of t h e pi a no full flo w n

r
,
-

a t onc e o v e r t h e fi rst diff icult i e s of music ?

But do e s t h is h ind e r an y pupil from six h oms ’

d a ily drill if n e e d b e to gr asp th e s am e d i ffi

, ,

c ul ties ? Th e o n e e d is to b e att a in e d wh e t h
n
,

e r inst antly o r n ot ; a n d in som e c a s e s t h e

m ost l aborio u s is by al l m e ans t h e most d e

lig h tful pl y e r C our age t h e n Th e s a m e
a .
,
.

t h ing is tru e of ot h e r e fforts t h a n t h os e of t h e

ke y bo a rd ;an d i t is quit e as c e rt a i n t h a t t h e
-

wom an wh o tr ains h e rs e lf to b e gr a c e f l wil l u

b e so as t h a t t h e c l umsy young p e d ant a t t h e

,

sc al e s will i n ti m e rus h ictoriously t h roug h

, ,
v

th e
“
S h o we r of P e a rls t h e C,
a sc
”
a d e of “

R os e s or an y ot h e r dr a wing roo m f a vorit e -

of g e l tiniz e d oct a v e s
a .

F or t h e fi st comfort i t must b e o wn e d t h a t
r ,

A m e ric a n wom e n h a v e t h e l e ast n a tura l g ra c e k .

 SPANIS H GIRL IN T HE SENATE . 37

of an y n ation in t h e world E nglis h wom e n

.

a r e u su a lly w e ll tr a in e d i n a sort of m artin e t

propri ety of attitud e w h ic h suits t h e ir solid

contours ;but n e it h e r A nglo S axon r ac e kno ws-

a n a ppro a c h to t h os e l e ngt h e n e d curv e s t h os e ,

b e nds of e v e ry sl e nd e r j oint an d suppl e m u s

cl e w h ic h fill t h e e y e i n looking a t a wom a n
,

of L atin r ac e I watc h e d a S pa nis h A m e ric an

.
-

girl i n t h e ga ll e y of th e Unite d S t at e s Se n
r

a t e o e n ig h t in ord e r t o s e iz e i f possibl e h e r
n , , ,

c h ar m of ge sture Sh e Was round e d ye t fi n e

.
,

in figur e an d s e e m e d to b e as I an b e st
, ,
c

p h r as e i t al l m uscl e N0 o n e could t h ink of

,
.

h e r bon e s a s h a ving a n y mor e sti ffn e ss t h a n

t h e pli a nt spr ays of an e l m Sh e l e an e d on
.

t h e r a iling of t h e b alcony not str aig h t for ward

,

as e v e n t h e e l e g ant a n d d e lic at e diplom a tic

E nglis h l adi e s did but l e ngt h wis e as if r e cl i n

, ,

ing ;an d t h e b e n d of h e suppl e wrist wit h

r
,

t h e bl a ck an d gold f a n was simply inimit abl e

,

to an A m e ric an wom an T h os e intransfe rabl e

.

curv e s b e witc h e d t h e e ye e v e n to pam ;but

som e t h ing w as g a in e d in t h a t fi e minute s v
’
38 T HE UGLY GIRL P A PERS .

study w h ic h I r e d uc e to t wo points : Sid e

way mov e m e nts a n d a ttitud e s pl e a e mor e s

t h an t h os e e it h e r for wa rd or b a ck wa rd Th e .

s e cre t of grac e is to t e a c h e v e ry j oint of t h e

body to b e nd all t h a t it c an .

T ak e t h e l ast poin t first an d yo u h av e all,

t h at yo u n e e d to t e ac h t h e fin e st grac e To .

t h e dumb b e lls to t h e c alist h e nic e x e rcis e s a n d

-
,

work as i f y o u we r e qu alifying yours e lf to b e

a contortionist at a circus Vit alize e v e ry .

fibre as t h e h ot b lood e d S out h e rn e r is it aliz e d

,
-
v
,

an d t h e body will p l ay into gr a c e of its e lf .

Th e first t h ing is t h e h a rd e st to st an d
straig h t M ost p e opl e a r e s atisfi e d ind e e d to
.

a tt ain t h is point of p h ysic a l an d polit e cultur e ,

an d n e v e r e t b e yon d it E r e ct sti ff n e ss is
g .

b e tt e r t h an crook e dn e ss To b e admirabl e t h e
.
,

figur e must b e p e rfe ctly fl at in t h e s h ould e rs .

N o proj e cting s h ould e r bl a d e s n o curv e s a e al

-
,
r

lo we d h e r e h o we v e r pl e asing t h e y m ay b e e ls e
,

w h e re . A stout figur e c a n h ardly b e u r e n a

fi n e d if it is fl at b e h ind A p air of in e l astic

. .

s h ould e r br ac e s m ust b e c all e d into r e quisi

- ‘
 INEL A STI C SHOULDER B RA C ES -
. 39

tion ;a n d t h e s e s h ould b e m ad e of coutille o r ,

s a tin j e an t wo inc h es wid e an d cord e d at t h e

, ,

e dg e. M ak e t h e m b a r e ly long e noug h to r e a c h
t h e b e lt of t h e skirts w orn an d button on t h e m
,
.

Se t t h e s h ould e rs p e rfe ctly fl a t ag a inst t h e

wall a n d find t h e dist anc e b e t we e n t h e ir
,

bl ad e s ;fast e n a bro a d str ap t h e s am e l e ngth

—not mor e t h a n t wo inc h e s e ry lik e ly
v — by
,

s e wing it to t h e straps b e h ind e v e n w it h t h e

lo we r e dge of t h e sc apul a T h is is t h e b e st
.
,

a s we l l as t h e c h e a p e st s h ould e r brac e to b e
-

found I f we ll proportion e d an d al l t h e m e as
.
,

u r e t ak e n sc ant it c an not f a il to dr a w t h e
,

s h ould e rs into pl ac e E xc e ll e n t t e a c h e rs of
.

p h ysic al tra in ing say t h at t h e will alon e s h ould

b e us e d to forc e on e s s e lf to st an d str a ig h t
’
.

T h is is tru e of a p e rson in p e rfe ct h e alt h .

But round s h ould e rs oft e n r e sult fro m we ak

n e ss or s e d e nt ary pursuits aga inst w h os e i
,
n

flu e nc e it is us e l e ss to struggl e an d I w ould

;
not d e b a r an y h alf in v alid fro m t h e luxu y of
-
r

t h e support gi v e n by a strict p a i r of br a c e s .

T h e y r e li e v e t h e h e a rt d lungs by t h ro wing
an
40 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPER S .

t h e we ig h t of t h e c h e st on t h e b a ck w h e re it ,

b e longs inst e a d of cro wding i t do w n o t h e

,
n

bre ast To corre ct t h e gly ris e of th e s h oul

. u

d e rs w h ic h al ways a ccomp an i e s curv a tur e an d ,

som e tim e s e xists wit h out it we ig h ts m ust b e ,

us e d N ot h ing is more u nfe min in e t h a n th e

.

straig h t lin e of s h ould e r w h ic h prop e rl y b e

,

longs to a cuirassi e or r a t h l e te
an S om e .

mot h e rs m ak e t h e ir young folks wal k t h e floo r

w it h a p ail of wat e r in e a c h h an d to gi v e t h e i r ,

s h o uld e rs a gra c e ful droop A substitut e m ay .

b e worn in on e s roo m w h il e a t w ork i n t h e

’
,

s h ap e of an outsid e br ac e of tripl e gray lin e n ,

h a ving t wo e xtr a stra ps buckling round th e

tip of e ac h s h ould e r o n e long e d r e ac h ing t h e
,
n

b e lt w it h a w e dge s h ap e d l e a d or i ron we ig h t
,
-

h ook e d on i t .
T h is is h e roic p a ctic e but
r e f ,

f e c t al ;a d
u n i ts p a ins a e a m
r ply comp e ns a t e d
by lin e s of figur e w h ic h a r e t h e sur e st e xpo
n e uts of h ig h br e e ding .

Th e position of th e f ee t is not to b e n e
g
le c te d i n th e e l sson of st a nding T h e to e
. s
s h ould b e w id e ly turn e d out to b al anc e we ll ,
 DISFIGUREMEN T S . 41

an d if foot is inclin e d to turn in t h is m ay

th e ,

b e r e m e di e d by h a ving t h e boot h e e ls m d e a

h ig h e r 0 t h e i nsid e T h is wil l t h ro w t h e
11 .

foot into a pos i tion to d e v e lop t h e arc h e d i n

ste p A crooke d le g is a m att e r for surgic al
.

tre atm e nt ;an d i n t h e s e d ays of cura tiv e i n

g e nu i t
y w it
,
h st e e l br a c e s i t w ill b e but t h e

work of a f e w mont h s to bring t h e most a wk

wa d limb i nto s h ap e
r . T h os e wh o h a v e s e e n
t h e wond e rs wr oug h t w it h d e form e d c h ildr e n

wh o h a v e crook e d limbs a n d bodi e s wil l c o n

sid e r it a simpl e m att e r to bring a p arti al dis
fi g ra t i o n und e r control
u .A s to t h e Size of t h e
fe e t s e nsibl e p e opl e will n e v e r b e p e rs u ad e d
,

t h at a y d e gre e of pr e ssure w h ic h c an b e
n

born e wit h out suffe ring is inj urious Na ture .

kno ws h o w to prote ct h e rs e lf A cl e v e r old

.

s h o e d eal e r g a v e as h is e xpe ri e nc e t h a t p e opl e

-

wh o a l ways we a r tig h t s h o e s n e v e r h a v e corns .

I t is t h e alt e rn a tion of tig h t a n d loos e s h o e s

t h a t giv e s ris e to t h e s e torm e nts .

Th e gr e at t o e j oint oug h t not to proj e ct b e

-

yond t h e lin e of t h e foot I kno w a z e alous

.
42 T HE U G LY G IRL P APERS .

young girl wh o r e gul arly scre we d h e r b are foot

u i n a lin e n ba nd ag e b e for e going to b e d to
p ,

k e e p i t i n s h ap e F or p ainful s we lling of
.

t h e fe e t i n w arm we a t h e r no r e m e dy i s a s
,

e ff e ctu al as an i c e cold foot b a t h for fi e m i n

- -
v

u t e s i n t h e e v e n ing or w h e n t h ey a r e most

troubl e som e T h is h o we v e r m ust n e v e r b e

.
, ,

t ak e n W it h out first we tting t h e h e ad pl e n t i

fully wit h i ce wat e r an d k e e ping a cold b and
-
,

a e o u i t all t h e w h il e I t is good to so k
g . a

t h e f e e t for fift e e n mi n ut e s in wa rm wat e r at

l e ast t wic e a we e k T h is k e e ps t h e m e l astic

.
,

an d i n d e lic a t e pli a nt condi t ion

,
.

A n e l e g ant c arri ag e is t h e p at e nt of n at
u r e s n obility an d a pp e a rs of its e lf w h e n t h e
’

body is h eld into prop e r attitud e s an d m ad e ,

prop e rly e l astic by e x e rci se Th e gr e a t c ause

.

—
of all stiffn e ss is want of e x e rti on a ge n e ral
rustin e ss of all t h e limbs To t h e sl e nd e r
.

c h ild of t h e S out h t h e clim at e suppli e s a d e

gre e of r e l ax a tion a d suppl e n e ss w h ic h dis
n -
a

p e ns e s w it h th e n e e d of a ction Th e wo men .

of Sout h A m e ric an colo n i e s s e ldom walk f o r

44 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

m ainly on t h e h ips w h ic h gi v e s a n i nd e
,
«

scrib abl e stiff n e ss of d e m e a nor A m e ric ans .

do t h e s a m e t h ro wing t h e we ig h t a littl e
,

more o t h e t h ig h wit h out b e nding t h e k n e e

n
,
.

F r e nc h wo m e n c a y t h e we ig h t on t h e c alf
’

rr

of t h e l e g an d t h e kn e e b e nds v e ry muc h a t
,

e a c h st e p w h il e t h e body is c arri e d w it h t h e
,

l e ast Aa la n cem en t of t h e s h ould e s an d th e r

,

h e ad so f ar from b e ing h e l d lik e a cock ad e

or t h e h e ad of tongs is e asy La téte d éga gé
,
. e
,

l ee épa les t o nal a t e is t h e rul e for a good

u / n

styl e Tr t h e di ff e re nc e of contr acting t h e

. v

m uscl e s i n t h e c alf of t h e l e g i n walking wit h ,

t h e k n e e b e nt s e nsibly at e a c h st e p Th e .

body i n volu n t arily t h ro ws its e lf b ack an d a ,

lig h tn e ss of mot ion is t h e r e sult w h ic h is i m,

possibl e wit h t h e usu al s wing of t h e l e g fro m

t h e h ips i n t h e s t i fi w alk of S axon w om e n .

Th e sa m e a ut h ority s ays t h a t t h e f a f a m e d r-

s e rpe ntin e glid e of t h e cr e ol e w h ic h t a v e l e rs

,
r

a dmir e a n d v a inly try to d e scrib e com e s from ,

a p e culi a r mov e m e nt of t h e h ips Th e w e ig h t

.

of th e fig u r e is t h ro wn on t h e loins an d h alf ,
 UNDUL ATING WA LK . 45

of t h e b ody mov e s alt e rn at e ly a t e ach st e p not ,

In a wriggl e a s it is c a ric atur e d a t t h e N ort h

, ,

o t w it h a sof t turn of t h e s h ould e rs corr e

u ‘

sp e nding a d a smoot h n e ss w h ic h b e tr ays t h e

,
n

se nsuous t e mp e r a m e nt an d l ux u rious p h ysiqu e .

S uc h is t h e walk of t h e wom e n of Ve n e zu e l a ,

Bogot a an d La P l at a S uc h a g ait h o we v e r
,
.
, ,

wo u ld h ardly b e a cc e pt e d i n t h e C h a mps E ly
s ee s as sugg e stiv e of h ig h r e fin e m e nt Th e .

w om e n of A l ab am a an d G e orgi a h a v e tr a its
e noug h of t h is walk to m ak e t h e m a mong t h e

m ost gr a c e ful in t h e world as f a r a s c arri ag e

,

go e s Th e cr e ole s of th e G ulf h a v e t h is si n uo u s
.

glid e b e tr aying a fl e xibility of limb w h ic h we

c an sc a rc e ly im agin e To g ain t h is pli ancy
.
,

t wisting mov e m e nts of gymn astics a e e sp e r

c i ll
a
y suit abl e G yr a tions of e a c h
. limb t h e
,

h e a d an d b ody produc e in a f e w we e ks pra e

, ,
’

tic e an e n i abl e d e gre e of el asticity w h ic h

,
v
,

g i v e s t h e c arri ag e som e t h ing mor e t h an t h e

u
p d and o w n for w a rd a
,
d b a ckn str a ig h t,

lin e s of motion w it h w h ic h l adi e s ordin a ily r

fa vor u s A smoot h long ste p t h e we ig h t of

.
, ,
46 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PE RS .

th e body o n th e loin s w h e r e n ature i nte n d

,
~

e d it s h ould b e an d t h e l e gs prop e ll e d from

,

t h e nc e w it h out s t iffn e ss a t t h e kn e e or oh
,

t r u si e motion of t h e h ips is prob ably t h e

v
, , ,

id e al of walking ;suc h a s o n e finds bot h in a

h ig h ly tra in e d wom an a d i n t h e unt aug h t
n

p e rfe ction of a S out h Se a I sl and e r .

I h a v e Spok e n at l e ngt h o n t h e topic of

walking be ca us e its import an c e as a n a t of
,
r

gr ac e c an not b e ov e rra te d an d b e c aus e it h as

,

a still d e e p e r b e aring o n wom e n s h e alt h ’

.

Th e tr a ining w h ic h s e cur e s a n e l e g an t c a r
r i a e is pr e cis e ly t h a t w h ic h count e r a cts t h e
g
t e nd e ncy to a do zen fat al r e l ax at ions at di ffe r
e n t points of t h e fr a m e a n d pr e v e nts t h e ir
,

a pp e a r anc e . N o o n e oug h t to say t h at walk

ing brings on t h e disord e rs w h ic h bl anc h an d
wit h e r fe m n n e life
i i Th e c au s e i s t h e fat al
.
,

in h e rit ed weakn e ss of constitution s h o wn by ,

e it h e r u ndu e r e dn e ss or p allor by indol e nc e ,

or e xcitability w h ic h is a slo w d e c ay fro m its

,

first br e at h an d poisons t h e h op e s an d t h e
,

l ov e l i n e ss of so m any w om e n T h e s e doom e d.
 W A LKIN G v er s u s WE A KNESS . 47

b e ings must work out t h e ir o wn s alv ation an d

m ak e t h e ms e lv e s an e w i n t h e e ff ort Th e .

we akn e ss e s would d e v e lop w h e t h e r t h e y walk

e d o r not . Th e c a r e s h ould b e to a dj ust e x
e r c i se a n d nouris h m e nt sti m
,
ulus an d r e st i n,

d e proportion
u . But t h e we ak w om an m ust
h a v e s e p ar ate couns e l for sh e by no m e ans
,

com e s und e r th e h e ad of t h e s e u n p re me dita t e d

co n sult ation s.
 T IIE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

C H A P T ER I V .

N . P Wi l li . C i t ic f B e u t y —Th e P e f u m e f t h
s as a r o a . r o e

P n c e — C h m f G o o d C i c u l t i n —C hill
re s e ar In
o r a o s are

c i pi t C ng e t i n — P p
en o C l t hing — L u x u i e f t h
s o . a er o r s o e

—
B t h A Su b t i t u t e f S B t h s — TO S c u e F
a . s or ea -
a e r ra

r —
g a n t B e t h D e lic at e D e n t i f ic e s F in e C l gn e — A
r a . r .
-
o o

Li t o f F r g nc e
s a ra .

WHEN Willis di e d A m e ric an soci e ty lost its ,

gre a t p e rson al critic N0 ot h e r write r s h o ws .

suc h i nsig h t into t h e subtil e e l e m e nts of wo m

e n s b e a uty or sp e aks so a ssur e dly on points
’
,

of m e re out ward attr action T h a t g e ntl e a n d .

gr acious critic wh o bl e ss e s t h e ord e r of Old

B a c h e lors diss e cts fe minin e m ann e r wit h ze st ,

but is not gi v e n to t h a t m e ntion of e ar locks -

a n d fi n e r tips w h ic h m ad e
-
P e opl e I h a v e
g
Me t suc h a cons e rv e of h ints for t h e dre ss
”

ing t abl e I t is a pity suc h a connoiss e ur of

-
.

f e minin e gr a c e s could not h a v e t ak e n h alf a

h undre d distinguis h e d sp e cim e ns i nto h is trai n
 PE RSONA L PERF UME . 49

i ng to s h o w t h e world suc h wom e n as fill t h e

id e al of a r e fin e d m a of t h e w orld Willis
n .

was susc e ptibl e to b e uty w h e r e v e r h e found

a

it : a p e rfe ct e ar on t h e h e ad of a pl ain coun

try girl would not m is s t h e gl anc e of t h is ar t "

ist an d h e b e trays w h a t singl e c h arms m ay

,

ri v e t th e r eg ard of a m an of t aste a doze n

tim e s i n t h os e glorio us s k e tc h e s w e n e ve r h ope

to se e e xc e ll e d
.

Y ou re m e mb e r o n e of h is h e roin e s was r e
m ark abl e for t h e p e rfum e w h ic h e x h al e d fro m
h e r p e rson. We a re not to suppos e t h at t h is
most fascin ating gift was d u e to Co u d ay s r
’

s ac h e ts or to h e dyo si m a on h e r h air F ro m
,
.

r e p e ate d e xp e ri e nc e v e rifi e d by t h at of v e ry
,

disc e rning an d s e nsiti v e p e rsons it is a f ,

firm e d t h a t c e rt a i n p e opl e of fi e orga nis m

n

an d p e rf e ct h e alt h h a v e a fr agr a nc e b e long

ing to t h e ir pre s e nc e lik e sc e n t to a flo we r .

O n e of t h e most po we rful fe minin e nov e lists

of t h e d ay s aid t h at sh e al ways kn e w w h e n a
f a vorite brot h e r h ad b e e n i a roo m by t h e
n .

s li g h t i n d e fi n ab le p e rfum e t h a t follo we d h im .
50 THE UG LY GI RL P APERS .

H is pillo w br e at h e d it h is e asy c h air an d

,
an d -
,

i t was p e rc e i v e d e v e n by comp arati v e str an

g e rs I h a v e kno w n p e rsons innoc e n t of using
.

p e rfum e w h ose fragrant pr e s e nc e was r e cog

,

n i ze d by e v e ry o n e wh o c a m e n e a r t h e m In .

al l c as e s t h is was a ccomp ani e d by a bodily

condition of p e rfe ct h e alt h an d muc h m ag

n e tic a ttr a ctio n T h is m ay b e n am e d t h e first
.

i n t h a t list of subtil e pe rson al prop e rti e s w h ic h

constitut e t h e stronge st an d most e nduring of
p h ysic al c h arms an d w h ic h ar e not discuss e d
,

wit h an y proportio n to t h e ir pot e ncy We do .

n o t stop to a sk w h a t pl e as e s u s ; r e fin e m e nt

a ttr a cts s we e tn e ss d e t a ins u s an d we a r e only

, ,

t oo gl a d to l i e u nd e r t h e sp e ll

May a pl a in wom an r e ac h h e r h an d for

t h e s e gifts of pl e a sing ? S ur e ly T h e y .

w e r e m e ant to b e n atur e s comp e n sation for

’

t h e l ack of c h is el e d f e a tur e s an d r u ff l e d

tr e ss e s T o r e ac h t h is subtil e r e fin e m e nt r e
.

quir e s suc h pre p ar ation as t h e virgins u nd e r

we nt f o r th e court of A h asu e rus : S ix mont h s
w it h oil of myrr h a d six mont h s w it h s w e t
,
n e

3,
52 T HE UG LY GIRL PAPERS .

b e most d e ad e d W h e n th e blood fors ak e s

r
.

t h e skin it clogs t h e h e a rt t h e i nt e rn al org ans

, , ,

a n d l ays t h e tr a in for t h os e dis e as e s of t h e

—
tim e n e uralgi a p aralysis r h e u m atism an d
, , ,

conge stion I n fa ct e v e ry p e rson wh o su ff e rs

.
,

from o n e of t h e s e stupid c h ills is i n a st at e of

i ncipi e nt conge stion Ho w h at e ful is t h e mis
.

c r ab le e conomy w h ic h stints fir e s i n t h e r a w

d ays of May a n d S e pt e mb e r b e c aus e t h e c al,

e nd a r of h ous e h old ro u tin e d e cr e e s t h at i t is

not t h e s e ason for stov e s a n d gra t e s ! Not

l e ss i rrit ati n g is i t to sit wit h a circl e h alf
s h iv e ring in a l arg e p a rlor b e c aus e t h e full
,

blood e d act i v e m aste r of t h e h ous e h as d e cid

,

e d t h a t i t is nons e ns e to turn t h e h e a t on Th e .

slo w torture s suc h unfe e ling p e opl e in fl ict o n

t h e ir innoc e n t victims wil l b e w itn e ss e s aga inst
t h e m som e d ay t o t h e ir gre a t surpris e
,
.

E v e n i n summ e r m any d e lic at e p e rsons

find t h e skin al ways cold T h os e wh o a e so
. r

susc e ptibl e s h ould n e v e r b e w it h out prot e o

tion Th e most con v e ni e nt is a s h e e t of tissu e

.

p ap e r quilt e d i n m arc e llin e silk a d worn b e ,

n
 P APER FOR UNDER WE A R . 53

twe e n s h ou l d e rs t h e most s e nsitiv e point

th e ,

of t h e w h ol e body for f e e ling cold Th e com .

fort of t h is sl ig h t d e vic e c an h ardly b e i m ag

in ed . P ap e r is a non conductor of h e at but
-
,

p orous e noug h to a dmit a i so t h a t it n e e r

r
,
v

le a v e s t h e d a mpn e ss of rubb e r or oil silk p o -

r

te c to rs . E v e n i wint e r t h e w a rmt h of t h e s e
n

sl e nd e r lin ings e xc e e ds t h a t of a s h e e t of wad

ding In t h e c h ange of t h e y e ar w h e n it is
.
,

not cold e nough for fl ann e l a n d o n e c an not ,

b e comfort abl e w it h out som e e xtr a clot h ing ,

t h is is j ust w h a t is want e d A s h e e t of quilt e d

.

p ap e r s h ould b e worn for th e b ack an d o n e for ,

t h e c h e st t h e a rms c as e d i n t h e l e gs cut fro m

,

O l d silk or t h r e a d stockings w h ic h cling to t h e ,

fle s h a d k e e p i t from t h e a i r b e tt e r t h an an y
,
n

ot h e r a rticl e T h us e quipp e d a d e lic at e wo m

.
,

an m ay fa c e t h e subtl e c h ills of spring a d n

a utumn w it h out a s h iv e r A dd e d w r m t h is
. a

not n e c e ss ary about t h e trunk of t h e body t il l

e xtr e m e cold we at h e C lot h e s fit clos e ly
r .

t h e r e an d t h e it al c e ntre s a l ways g e n e r at e
,
v

most h e at so t h at only t h e e xtr e miti e s an d

,
54: T HE UG LY G IRL PAPERS .

th e upp e r p ar t of the c h e st n ee d r o te c ~
p
=

tion .

Th e d aily b at h n e e ds to b e a dminist e re d
wit h som e c a r e Th e v alu e O f h ot b a t h ing is
.

h a rdly u nd e rstood In cong e st e d circul a tion

.

not h ing is so e ffe ctiv e as a t e n m inut e s b at h ’

a t e ig h ty fi ve d e gr e e s t h e wa t e r cov e ring t h e
-
,

body e ntir e ly follo we d by a cold spon ge b a t h

,
-
,

quickly g i v e n an d imm e di at e drying B at h

,
.

to we ls a re not h alf l a rg e e noug h as commonly

m a d e T h e y S h ould b e sm all s h e e ts i n si ze lik e
.
,

t h e r e al T u rkis h b at h to we ls u se d by t h e wo rn
-

e n of C onst a ntinopl e w h ic h e n v e lop t h e body

, ,

an d dry it a t onc e A b a t h s h ould n e v e r c h ill

.

o n e an d t h e fe e lings m ay b e sa fe ly tru st e d as
,

guid es i n t h e m atte r To a constitution strong

.

e no g h to m e e t it e v e n t h oug h som e w h a t d e
u ,

p re ss e d at t h e tim e not h ing is so inviti ng as

,

t h e stimulus of t h e cold b at h t h e i nst ant s

’
,

c h ill follo we d by t h e rus h of warm blood al l

ov e r t h e body For we ak syst e ms an i n ig
. v ~

or a nt is found so simpl e an d e ffe ctiv e t h t

,
a

t h e wond e r i s wh y it was not us e d long ago .

 A MMONI A B AT Hs . 5

W h e n th e s e ason or circumst anc e s forbid a

st ay on t he se a co ast ’
-
,
substitute n e arly if
a

n ot quite as stre ngt h e ning i s found i n an

a mmoni a b at h . A gill of liquid a mmoni a i n
a p a il of wat e r m ak e s an i n vigor a ting solution
‘

w h os e d e lig h tful e ff e cts c an only b e comp a r e d

to a plunge i n th e surf W e ak p e rsons w ill
.

find t h is a luxury an d a tonic b e yond com

p ar e I t cl e ans e s t h e skin a d stimul at e s i t
.
,
n

w ond e rf u lly . A ft e r such a b at h t h e fl e s h fe e ls

fi r m a n d cool lik e m a rbl e M ore t h a n t h is
.
,

t h e a mmoni a purifi e s t h e body from al l Odor of

p e rspir ation T h os e i n w h om t h e s e cr e tio n is

.

unpl e as ant will find r e li e f by using a spoonf u l

of th e tincture i n a b asi n of wa te r an d was h ,

i n g t h e a rmpits we ll wit h it e v e ry morning .

Th e f e e t m ay b e rid of odor i n t h e s a m e way .

But w h a t s h al l d e stroy t h at f o e to s e nti

m e nt t h at b an e of all b e a uty an Offe nsiv e
, ,

bre at h ? I c a n not im agin e a wom an could

fall i n lov e wit h IIype i o n if h e h ad t h is
r

drawb ack Th e sugg e stion of u r e fi n e m e n t

. n

an d of p h ysic al disord e r i t gi v e s would

56 T HE UG LY GIRL PAPERS .

we ig h gainst all t h e moral an d inte ll e ctu l

a a

w ort h w h ic h m ig h t l i e b e h i n d i t Th e a ut i
‘
.

dot e h appily is a s simpl e a s t h e e vil is pre

, ,

v a iling Wit h a tt e ntion to t h e h e alt h a d

.
,
n

brus h ing t h e t e e t h a t l e ast n ig h t a d mor n n

ing al l b e sid e s t h at is n e e d e d to s e cur e a

,

s we e t bre at h i s to dissol v e a bit of licoric e

t h e siz e of a c e nt i n t h e mout h a ft e r u s

ing t h e toot h brus h T h is w ill e v e n c o u n te r

-
.
w

a c t t h e e ffe cts of indige stion a n d do e s not

,

con v e y t h e u n pl e as an t sugge stio n of cac h ous

an d spic e t h a t t h e y a r e us e d to h id e a n offe nse
,
.

L icoric e h as no sm e ll but i t s we e t e ns t h e mout h

an d stom a c h A stick of it s h ould b e c h ipp e d
.

for u se an d k e pt i n a box on t h e toil e tt e

,
.

A tinctur e w h ic h r e store s so u ndn e ss to t h e

gums is o n e ounc e of co ars e ly po wd e r e d Pe
r u ia
v b ark st e e p e d in h alf a pint of br andy
n

for a fortnig h t G argl e t h e mout h nig h t an d

.

morning wit h a t e aspoonful of t h is tincture

d ilut e d w it h a e qu a l qu antity of ros e wa t e r
n -
.

F or d e c aying t e e t h m ak e a b als a m of t wo
scrupl e s of myrr h i n fi n e po wd e r a scrupl e of ,
 “
SWEET As O RRIs IN M A SS T IME
-
.
”
57

j unip e r gum an d t e n grains of rock a lum

, ,

mix e d i n h on e y an d apply oft e n

,
.

I t is u s e ful al so to c h e w a bit of orris root -

,

w h ic h Bro wning s ays F lor e ntin e l a di e s lov e to

u se in m a ss tim e ;or to wa s h t h e mout h w it h
-

t h e t i n c t u e o f myrr h or t ak e a bit of myrr h

r
,
'

t h e siz e of a h az e l n u t at nig h t or a pi e c e of
-
,

burn e d alum .

A v e ry agre e abl e d e ntifric e is m ad e from

an ounc e of myrr h i n fi n e po w d e r an d a littl e

po wd e re d gre e n s ag e mix e d w it h t wo spoon

,

fuls of w h it e h on e y Th e t e e t h s h ould b e
.

was h e d wit h it e v e ry n ig h t an d morning .

To cl e a n t h e t e e t h rub t h e m w it h t h e as h e s
,

of burn e d br e ad I t m ust b e t h oroug h ly

.

burn e d n ot c h a rre d
,
.

S pit e of all t h a t is s aid aga inst it c h a rco al ,

h olds t h e h ig h e st pl ac e as a toot h po wd e r I t -
.

h as t h e prop e rty too of opposing p t e f a

, ,
u r c

tion a d d e stroying vic e s of t h e gums I t

,
n .

is m ost conv e ni e ntly us e d w h e n m d e into a

p ast e wit h h on ey
A fi n e C ologn e is pr e p ar e d from o n e g al
l on of d e odoriz e d alco h ol or spirit ob t ain e d
,

from t h e C at a wb a gra p e w h ic h is n e a rly

,

if not qu it e e qu al to t h e grap e spirit w h ic h

giv e s F a rin a C ologn e its v alu e To t h is is ad d .

e d o n e ounc e O f O i l of l a v e nd e r o n e ounc e of
,

oil O f orang e t wo drac h ms of oil of c e dra t o n e

, ,

dr a c h m of oil of n e rol i or orang e fl o we rs o n e ,

d rac h m of O il of ros e an d o n e d a c h m of am
,
r

b e r g is
r , M ix we ll an d k e e p for t h r e e we e ks
,

in a cool pl ac e .

To t h is lis t of fr g anc e a dd a r e cip e for

a r

commo n C olog n e to u se as a toil e t wa te r .

I t is oil of b e rga mot l a v e nd e r an d l e mon e ac h

, , ,

o n e dr a c h m ;oil of ros e a n d j asmin e e a c h t e n ,

drops ;e ss e nc e of amb e rgris t e n drops ;spirits ,

of win e o n e pint M ix an d k e e p we l l clos e d

,
.

i n a c ool pl a c e for t wo m ont h s w h e n it w ill ,

b e fit for u se . L adi e s will b e gra t e ful for t h is

wh o h a v e kno w n w h a t troubl e it is to find a
r e fr e s h ing C ologn e w h ic h do e s n ot sm e ll like
cooking e xtr a ct wit h l e mo or an ill a I f n v .

wit h t h e s e h ints a wom an c an n o t k e e p h e r

s e lf f ragra nt an d lov e ly i n p e rson h e r c ase
.

m ust n e e d t h e h e lp of t h e p h ysici an .
60 T HE UG LY G IRL PAPERS .

turn of m asculin e admi re rs G e orge d e cl are s

.

h e could n e v e r o wn a wife wh o us e d po wd e r
an d e t A nn i e com e s do wn looking innoc e nt
y ,

in h e r p ink bo ws w it h a little w h ite bloo m o n

,

e c h t e mpl e a n d a Sl l S C l O l S Odor of L ubin s

’
a , p l l

Viol e t flo a ting roun d h e I don t t h ink

r .
’

G e orge m e dit at e s d i vorc e on t h a t a ccount .

T h e re is som e t h ing n obl e a n d inge nuous i n

t h e sig h t of a n u nco v e r e d skin ;b ut we r e c

o n c il e ours e l v e s to t h e p e a rly f alse h o od a o ,

c e ti n t h e situ a tio n wit h t h e fals e h a ir not

p g ,

so gray as it is i n fro nt a d t h e long a rt i fi c ial

,
n
,
~

s h ap e d n ails an d th e cra mpe d fe e t E v e ry

,
.

body kno ws t h e y ai e i n v e nti ons a nd acc e pts ,

t h e m as suc h like p aste brilli ants a t a t h e atre

,
.

Th e a r t s of t h e toil e t a r e as old a s T h e b e s .

Th e p a int e d e ye of d e sire t h e burning c h e e k

,

an d dy e d n a ils we r e co e v a l wit h t h e w isdom

,

of Al e x andri a O f old t h e R om an l di e s
. a

u s e d t h e fi n e dust of calcin e d s h e lls an d t h e

j uic e s of pl ants to re stor t h e i fre s h n e ss of
e r

color T h e re i s n o e n d to t h e mod e rn con

.

t r i an ce s for t h e s a m e purpos e
v C rus h e d ge
.
 L ADY W A SHING T ON G ERAN l UMS .

r an i u m l e a v e s an d t h e p e t als of artifici al ros e s

,

w h ic h cont a in c a min e friction W t h r e d fl a n

r
,
i

n e l an d t h e j uic e of str a wb e rri e s a r e h o m e l v

, ,

substitut e s for roug e Th e wom e n of t h e

.

S out h a e m or e g i v e n to t h e u se of cosm e ti cs
r

t h an t h e ir N ort h e r n sist e rs P e r h aps W as h ing

.

t o n s e ts t h e e x a mpl e to all t h e st at e s ;for n o

w h e r e e ls e is s e e n suc h lib e r al se of p a int a n d u

po wd e r skillfully appli e d as t t h e c pit al

, ,
a a .

T h e re wom e n p a int for th e bre akfast t abl e an d -

,

c arry th e d e c e ption e v e ry w h e e Th e S p an r .

is h A m e ric a l ad i e s m ak e t h e absurd mist ak e

-
n

of supposing t h e ir ric h compl e xion s a d d ark n

e y e s ar e not m or e e nticing to N ort he r n e y e s

t h an our o wn cold b e a uti e s ;so by t h e h e lp ,

of toil e t bottl e s t h e y p e s e nt f c e s lik e L ady

"

,
r a

Was h ington g r niums fro m n in e in t h e morn

e a

ing till t h e y i c e t h e ms e l v e s to froz e n w h it e

n e ss for th e e v e n ings W h ite d s e pulc h re s is
.

t h e p h r a s e for e v e r r ng n g in on e s h e a d a t
’
i i

sig h t of t h is folly W h at i ndign ati on h as

.

s e iz e d o n e a t sigh t of M d am e t h e w it ty
a

a n d e n v i a bl e w h o h a d t h e we akn e ss to m ask
,
62 T HE UG LY G IRL PAPERS .

her lustro u s tropic al M urillo colors h ic h — w

, ,

e nc h a nt e d e v e ry N ort h e rn h e a rt — wit h poor

pl ast e r of burn e d oyst e r s h e lls ! I t was v e ry
-

w e ll for t h e T r e asury blond e s wh o look e d lik e ,

h um an p e ac h e s til l o n e sa w t h e m clos e to d ab ,

b l e i n w h it e a n d pink I t suit e d t h e ir s t vl e
. .

F or t h e s e sup e rb cre ol e s an d S e villi ans n e v e r ! ,

Bot h fro m prin cipl e an d pr e fe r e nc e t h is ,

book discount e n anc e s p aint an d po wd e r I t .

b e li e v e s t h at a w om an n e e ds n o ot h e r cos
m e tics t h an fre s h ai r e x e rcis e an d pure w a
, ,

ter
,
w h ic h if fre e ly us e d wil l imp ar t a rud
, ,

di e r glo w an d more p e arly tint to t h e fa c e

t h a n all t h e roug e a n d lily w h it e i n C h rist e n
-

do m .

But if m ust r e sort to artifici al b e a uty

sh e ,

l e t h e h e a rtistic about i t an d not l y o n

r ,
a

p a int as o n e would furniture polis h to b e rub ,

=

b e d i n w it h r ags Th e b e st a n d c h e ap e st
.

po wd e r is r e fin e d c h alk in littl e p e ll e ts e ac h ,

e no u g h for a n applic ation P o wd e r is a p o

. r

t e c t i o n an d comfort o long j ourn e ys or i n

n

t h e city dust I f t h e po e s of t h e skin m ust

. r
 HOW To USE POW DER . 60
fl

be fill e d o n e w ould pr e fe r cl e an dust to b e

, ,

gin w it h A l ay e r of po wd e r will pr e v e nt
.

fre ckl e s an d sun b urn w h e n prop e rly appli e d

- .

I t cools fe v e ris h s km s an d its u se c an b e

,

condon e d w h e n it m odifi e s t h e contr ast b e

t we e n r e d arms a n d W h it e e v e n i n g dre ss e s .

In a m at e u r t h e a tric als i t is indisp e ns abl e t h e ,

foot lig h ts t h ro wing t h e worst construction on

-

e v e n good compl e xions In all t h e s e c as e s i t

.

is wort h W h il e to kno w h o w to u se it we ll .

Th e skin S h ould b e as cl e an a n d cool as possi

b l e to b e gin
,
A p ell e t of c h alk wit h out an y
.
,

po sonous bismut h in it S h o uld b e w rapp e d i n

i ,

co ars e lin e n an d crus h e d i n wat e r grinding it ,

w e ll b e t we e n t h e fing e r s T h e n was h th e
.

fa c e quickly wi t h t h e lin e n an d t h e we t po w ,
"

d e r oo ze s i n its fin e st st a t e t h roug h t h e clot h ,

l e a ving a pure w h it e d e posit w h e n dry P r e ss .

t h e fa c e lig h tly wit h a d a mp h andk e rc h i e f to

r e mov e sup e rfluous po wd e r wiping t h e bro ws ,

a n d n ostrils fr e e T h is mod e of u sing c h alk

.

is l e ss e asily d e te cte d t h an w h e n it is duste d

on dry .
64 T HE UG LY G IRL- P APERS .

Th e b e st found ation for L ubin s po wd e r i s ’

g ain e d by so api n g t h e f ac e we ll an d t aking ,

c are not to rinse Off al l t h e smoot h glossy fe e l ,

i n g it l e a v e s D v th e fac e w it h out wiping

. r
,

a n d t h e t h inn e st l ay e r of oil is l e ft w h ic h ,

h olds t h e dry po wd e r w it h out t hat m e aly look

,

w h ic h L ubin is a pt to l e a v e To w h it e n t h e
.

a rms for t h e atric als rub t h e m first wit h glyc

,

erin e not l e tting t h e Skin a bsorb i t al l a d

, ,
n

a p p ly c h alk Th e coun try pr a ctic e is to sub

.

s t i t u t e a t allo w c andl e for t h e glyc e rin e ;b t u

ours is a progre ssi v e age A t l e ast t h e mo ral.

feeling l e ads o n e to spare a n es cort s c oat ’

sl e e v e .

R ouge n e e ds consid e ra tion b e fore r as h ly ap

plying Th e re ar e more tints of co mpl e xio n
.

t h a n t h e re are ros e s a n d o n e c a n only b e suc

,

c e s f l b y Obs e rving t h e n atura l colo s of a

‘

s u r

b e a uty of h e r o wn t y pe S om e c h e e ks h a e
.
v a

w in e lik e pu plis h glo w ot h e rs a tra nsp a nt

-
,
r ,
re

s aff ron tinge lik e y e llo wis h pink porc el in

,
-
a
°

ot h e rs still h a v e cl e a r pal e c armin e ;a n d t h e

,

ra re st of all t h a t su ff u se d tint lik e a ppl e blos

,
~
 T HE B ANE OF B ISMU T H . 65

soms By m aking h e r o wn rouge a l ady c an

.

—
grad u at e h e r p all e t t h at is to say h e r c h e e ks ,

-
a t pl e as ur e Th e follo w ing pr e p ar ations
.

h a v e t h e v irtu e at l e ast of b e ing h arml e ss

, , ,

w h ic h c an not b e s a id of most p aints an d po w

d e rs Re d l e ad bismut h ars e nic an d poiso n
.
-
, , ,

ous v eg e t abl e compounds ar e us e d i n t h e c o m

m o n cosm e tics Bis mut h is most fr e qu e nt ;
.

a n d i ts l e ast e ffe ct is to giv e t h e c h e e ks it h as

w h it e n e d a crop of purplis h pimpl e s w h ic h ,

would i ndic at e t h at t h e we ar e r was fr e e ly

d i spo ge d to t h e s a m e t a st e s as Sair e y G a mp
”
.

Th e h id e ously co a rs e compl e xion of m any

public singe rs is p artly d u e to t h e ir u se of h is
m t h po wd e r
a A n old disp e ns atory giv e s t h e
.

follo wing formul a for a h arml e ss cosm e tic u n

d e t h e n am e of A lmond Bloo m :
r

Tak e of Br azi l dust o n e ounc e ; wa te r , ,

t h re e pints ;bo il str ain an d ad d six dra c h ms

, ,

of isingl ass t wo of coc h in e al t h r e e of bo ra x

, , ,

n d a n ounc e o f alum boi l g in n d str a in

a
; a a a ,

t h rough a fi n e clot h Use as a liqu id c o s

.

m e tic .
66 T HE UG LY G IRL PAPERS .

De vo u x F r e nc h ouge is t h u s pr e p are d
r

Carmin e h alf a dr a c h m ;oil of a lmonds o n e

, ,

drac h m ; F r e nch c h alk t wo o unc e s M ix ,

. .

T h is m ak e s a d ry r ouge .

Th e milk of ros e s is m ad e by m ixi n g four

o unc e s of oil of a lmonds forty drops of oil of ,

t art a r an d h alf a pin t of ros e wat e r wit h c ar

,
-

min e to th e prop e r s h ad e T h is is v e ry soot h .

ing to th e skin D iffe re n t tinge s m ay b e giv e n

.

t o t h e roug e by adding a f e w fl ak e s of indi go

for t h e d e e p bl ack rose c imso n or mixing a lit

-
r ,

t l e p al e y e llo w w it h l e ss c a rmin e for t h e soft

G r e u ze tints All pr e p ar ations for d a rk e ing

. n

t h e e y e b ro ws e y e l as h e s e t c
,
m ust b e put on
,
.
,

w it h a sm all h air p e ncil d irty fi n ge

”
-
Th e .
-
r

e ffe ct is not good A fi n e lin e of bl ack round

.

t h e ri m of t h e e y e lid w h e n prop e rly don e

, ,

s h ould n o t b e d e t e cte d an d its e ffe ct in soft e n

,

ing an d e nl argi n g t h e app e ar anc e of t h e ey e s

is We ll kno wn by all am at e ur pl ay e rs A .

sm e a re d blotc h y look con v eys an u n pl e as ant

,

i d e a of dissip a tion .

F or t h e fi nge r tips alk an e t m ak e s a goo d

-
,
68 T H E UG LY G IRL PAPERS .

an d ft e r ward incorpor at e with wax an d

a

sp e rm ac e ti A l ways t i e alk an e t i n muslin

.

w h e n i t is us e d for coloring purpos e s .

W h e blond e w igs a e n ot att ain abl e for

n r

t h e atric al s a s witc h of d a rk h a ir m ay b e
,

bl e ac h e d by so aking i n strong vin e g ar an d ,

colore d by an infusion of turm e ric i n C h am

p agn e or by th e liquor obt a in e d from t h e tops
,

of pot ato e s r e ady to flo we r m ix e d wit h wat e r

, ,

su ffe ring it to ste e p t we nty four h ours T h is

-
.

is too poisonous e v e r to b e us e d o n th e h e ad
w it h s a fe ty .

Th e waln ut st a in for ski n or h a ir is m ad e

pre cis e ly lik e t h at for clot h by boiling t h e
b a rk — say an ounc e to a pint of wate r for -

an h our slo wly an d a dding a lump of a lu m

, ,

t h e siz e of a t h i mbl e to s e t t h e d y e A pply .

wit h a littl e br u s h suc h as is us e d i n wa te r

,

colo s to t h e l as h e s a d e y e bro ws or w it h a
r ,
n ,

spong e to t h e h air “Tr ap t h e h e ad i n an Ol d

.

h a ndk e rc h i e f w h e n going to sl e e p or th e moist

,

e of t h e h a ir w ill st a i n t h e pillo w c as e s
-
ur .

Bu t o n e t h ing m ust b e s a id : t h e w om an
 LOS T B LOOM A ND GLOSS . 69

wh o h as onc e t ak e n to p ainting an d colori ng

m us t go o n p a i nting a n d coloring ;r ar e l y if,

e v e r do e s t h e compl e x o n r e g ai n its bloom

,
i
,

t h e ski n its smoot h n e ss or t h e h a ir its gloss

,
.

In most c as e s t h e op e r a tor must go on d e e p

c uing t h e h u e a n d in no c as e c a n h e or sh e
,

b e sur e of t h e s h ad e or tint w h ic h succ e ssi v e

ap pl i c ations will p rod u c e .
70 T H E UG LY G IRL PAPER S -
.

C H AP T ER VI .

Rec a mi e r ining — Di n f P o i t i e r s B t h : H igh

’
s Tr a . a a o ,
a

B e u t y o f M t u i t y —Th e Wo t h f B e u t y — Ge g
a a r . r o a . or e

E li t o C mpl xi o n — D C z n v e —B l y P t f
o n o e s r . a e a . ar e as e or
'

t e F ce
h a — P c ip i
e t f trh R m n L di e
s r — T R on s o e o a a s o e

m v P impl
o e —C c ill W h V ni h f W inkl
es .
— a s ar a as ar s or r es .

—A c e t ic Acid f C o m e d n e T Re m v e M k
or — L dy o s .
~ -
o o as a

M y Mo n t g u — H bi t o f I t l i a n L di e s — N
ar a . V h fa a a as o

V i t ri o l .

THE m otto t h at us e d to h a unt our souls

o v e r copy books N o e xc e ll e nc e w it h out gr e at
-
,

l abor is a tru e about p e s on a l improv e m e nt

,
”
s r

a s a n y t h ing e l s e Fe w c e l e br at e d b e a uti e s
.

h a v e g a in e d t h e ir f a m e W it h out u se of t h os e
a rts w h ic h m ust b e t h e e a rli e st of all sinc e we ,

h a v e n o r e cord of t h e ir first t e ac h ing t h e —

a r t s of t h e toil e tt e M ad a m e R ec a mi e r wh o .

e x e rcis d mor e po we r by h e
e b e a uty t h a n an y r

wom an of mod e rn tim e s wa s br e d by a m ost ,

c ar e ful mot h e r v e rs e d in all t h e m vs te r i e s of

,
 EFINED B E A U T Y
R . 71

tr aining He r e xc e e ding d e lic acy of co rn

.

pl e xion aros e fro m t h e prote ction sh e g a v e it ,

n e v e r going out e xc e pt i n h e c arri ag e an d r

,

sc a rc e ly kno wing w h at it was to se t foot to

t h e ground M arg ar e t of A nj ou an d M a ry
.

S tu a rt i n e arli e r tim e s we r e wis e as se

, ,
r

p e nts in t h m agic of t h e toil e t disd aining

e ,

n e it h e M v d e w nor l e ss Simpl e lotions f

r a or

c h e e ks w h e re o n t h e e ye of t h e world was to
d we ll D i a n a of P oiti e rs b e qu e at h e d a l eg
.

ac
y of a lu e to h e r s e x in comm e nding t h e
v

u se of t h e r ai n wa t e r b at h w h ic h pr e s e rv e d
-
,

h e o wn b e a uty till a t t h e age of sixty fi e no

r ,
-
v
,

o e co u ld b e
n ins e nsibl e to h e r N ino n d e .

l E c l OS l e ft t h e s am e t e st mony I t is i t ol
’
n i . n

cr ab l e t h at wom e n h a v e not t h e a mbitio n to

pr e s e rv e t h e ir h e alt h a n d c h a rms to t h e l at e st
d at e an d giy e u p t h e ir c as e s SO s h am e fully
,

soon A n int e llige nt m aturity c h is e ls an d é

. r

fi n e s t h e fac e to a h ig h an d f e e ling b e auty ;

t h at is to t h e a ttra ctions of yout h w h at t h e
a ristocr a tic h e a d of Boot h would b e b e sid e a

pink a d w h ite l a dy kill e r of soci e ty T h is se

-
n - -
"

.
72 T HE UG LY GIRL PAPERS .

r e n e an d finis h e d e xpr e ssion s h ould find p h ys

ic a l fa vor to accomp any it N or is t h is to b e
.

ga in e d as m a ny s ay ,by l e ading a p ass i v e e m o

, ,

t i o n l e ss lif e P e opl e of v ivid fe e ling ar e t h e

.

younge st T h e ir quick alte rations of mood

.

m ak e t h e fac e cl e an o t ye t do not s e ttl e it i n

u ,

uniform furro ws Bot h gri e f an d j o y y e arn

.
,

ing p assion an d u tt e r r e nunci a tion e n e e d e d ,

ar

to sculpture fin e ly t h e st tu e s for r e m e ma

br an ce N o o n e profe ssing t h e lofti e st a i ms

.
,

wh o und e rst an d s h um a n n ature c an d e spis e,

t h e c ar e of p e rson al b e a uty w h e n combin e d ,

wit h mor al w orth its influ e nc e is so i r r e s i s t

,

ibl e L ook at t h e portr aits of t h os e r e no wn e d

.

a s mor al an d i nt e ll e ctu al h e ro e s ; i t will b e

found t h e ir gre atn e ss was r a re ly associ at e d
w it h p h ysic al r e pulsiv e n e ss an d t h o u g h t h e ir
,

fa c e s i t h e conflict s of life gre w s e am e d

n

a n d w orn y,
et i yout
n h t h e y must h a v e b e e n

more t h a n ordin arily r e m ark e d for b e a uty of

a h ig h ord e r C ol umbus a n d G alil e o a d
— n

W h it e fi e ld w il l do f o e x ampl e s A nd if
r .

th e r e ad e r go t h roug h t h e r a ng e of f e minin e
 V ALUE OF
~

A O LE A R C OMPLE X ION . 73

c e l e briti e s from th e po e ts t o mission a y biog

,
r

ra h ies
p ,
w “
it h portr a it of t h e origin al not ,
”

‘
o n e fa c e i n t e n w ill dis put e w h a t I h a v e
s aid .

L e ast of al l l e t an y wom an h e e d smili n g

scor n of h e r we akn e ss i n t aking p ains to se
—
cur e a good compl e x i on t h e r e al cl e arn e ss
an d color if sh e e sc h e w t h e co ars e pre t ens e
,
'

of po wd e r an d p a nt G e orge E liot wi t h h e r
i .
,

m asculin e s e ns e b e ars witn e ss to t h e i r e si st i

,
r

b l e t e nd e ncy to a ssoci at e a pur e soul wit h a

luc e n t compl e xion NO wom an c an b e disa .
~

e e ab l e i f sh e h a v e t h is s a ving cl a im ; a n d
g r

t h e e will b e no apology for adding a f e w e s

r

tim abl e r e cip e s for t h e purpos e f ro m t h e col

l e ctio n of a fore ig n p h ysici an D r C az e n a v e ,
. .

He r e comm e nds t h e follo wing a s a composi «

tion for t h e fac e '

T h re e ounc e s of ground b arl e y o n e ounc e ,

of h on e y and t h e wh i t e of o n e e gg m ix e d to
,
'

a p ast e n d spr e a d t h ickly on t h e c h e e ks nos e

,
a , ,

a n d for e h e ad b e for e going to b e d

,
T h is m ust .

re m ai n all n ig h t prote cting th e fac e b y a soft

,
74 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

h a ndk e rc h i e f or bits of l a wn l a id ov e r t h e
,

p arts on w h ic h t h e aste i s appli e d Wash i t ‘

p
.

off wit h warm wat e r we tt ng t h e surfac e wit h

,
i

a spong e a n d l e tting it soft e n w h il e dr e ssing

,

t h e h a ir or finis h ing on e s b a t h Re pe at
’
.

n ig h tly till t h e skin gro ws p e rfe ctly fi n e a d n

soft w h ic h s h ould b e i n t h re e we e ks aft e r

, ,

w h ic h i t w ill b e e noug h to u se it on c e a we e k
Alw
.

a vs wa s h t h e f c e w it h wa r m wa t e r an d
a

m ild so a p rubbing on a l ittl e cold cr e am w h e n

,

e xposing on e s s e lf to t h e we a t h e r T h is p aste
’
.

was us e d by t h e R om ans With t h is c are

.
,

m u s t b e t ak e n to b a t h e d ily i n w ar m wa t e r
a ,

u sing so ap fr e e ly toning t h e syst e m wit h

,
a

cold pl u n g e a ft e r wa rd if o n e c an b e a r i t
,
.

F or pimpl e s u se t h is r e cip e : t h irty six gr a ins -

of bic a rbon at e of sod a o n e dra c h m of gly c e r

,

i n e o n e ounc e of sp e rm a c e ti ointm e nt
,
R ub .

on t h e fac e ;l e t i t r e main for a qu art e r of a n

h our an d wip e off all but a slig h t fi l m wit h a
,

s oft clot h .

Th e b e st was h for th e compl e xion giv e n is

c asc a ri ll a po wd e r t wo g a ins ; u i a t e of a m
,
r rn r
76 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

suc h h e roic applic ation could s afe ly b e m ad e

a .

Th e ans we r was t h a t n i a t i c a cid Sixty pe r

r ur
,

c en t stro n g dilut e d i t we l v e p arts of wa t e r

.
,
n
,

m ig h t b e u s e d a s a w a s h a n d gra du ally e at
,

a way t h e co a rs e out e r e n v e lop e O f t h e skin i f ,

an o n e h ad fortitud e to b e a r a s lo w c a ut e y
y r

lik e t h is L ady Ma ry r e cords t h at Sh e h ad to

.

s h ut h e rse lf u p most of a we e k an d h e r f ac e
,

m e antim e was bliste re d s h ockingly ;but afte r

wa rd t h e I t ali a n l a di e s assur e d h e r t h at h e r
compl e xion was v a stly i mprov e d O n the
‘
.

w h ol e t h e typ h oid fe v e r i s pr e fe r abl e as a n

,

a g e nt for cl e aring t h e compl e xion b e ing pe r

,

h ap s l e ss d ang e ro u s an d mor e e ff e ct i v e .
 SHINING PALLOR .

C H AP T ER V II .

Shining P all or L u t o u s F c e s.
- l de n F re ck l e s
s r a — Go —Ti
g Li l y Sp o t
er- S P h o t o g ph s Ni t e Re m v e
s . un ra . r o s

r —
F e ckle s O l d E gli h P e c i pt i o n Fo Y ch t ing
.
—
n s r s r . r a .

Alm o nd O il B u t t e milk as a C o m e t i c R e m y d
— -
.
— r s os ar an

G lyc e in e r .
- —
Lo t i o fo P ic kly He t Fo M q i t o e s
n r r a . r us u .

P t e c t ing H i r f o m Se A i F hi n b le G r y H i
ro a r a r .
- as o a a a r.

— D k E ye ar d Si l v e H i
s an —T Re t e D k H i r r a r . o s or ar a .

B nd o lin e C ld C e m A l m o nd P o m ade — Fo r
-
a . o r a . .

Ski Di e e — Su lph u o u Acid

n s as s . r s .

Tn E summ e r h e ats w h ic h m ake n atu re lov e ,

l v ar e t h e b an e of our fair skinn e d Nort h e rn

,
-

girls S out h e rn fram e s re c e i v e t h e glo wing

.

wa r m t h an d gro w p al e r a n d p al e r b e c a us e
, ,

giving a m atte r o f fact e xpl an ation of a b ea n - -

tiful a ppe ara nc e t h e surfa c e of t h e skin is

—

cool e d by t h e p e rspiration an d t h e blood r e ,

tre a ts to t h e c e ntral v e i n s Th e s h ining pal .

lor w h ic h po e ts lov e o n t h e fa c e s of t h e ir
”

fa vor i te cr e a tions i s t h e Sign an d e ff e ct of c o n

c e n t r a te d p assio n of a n k ind i n a quick e l e c
y ,
78 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

tri c n ature I disb e li e v e d i n t h e e xpre ssio n a

.

long ti m e cl assing it wit h th e m arbl e flus h

,
“ ”

an d suc h fr e ak s of n atur e in nov e ls ;but t h e

pe culi ar look h as com e und e r my e ye more

t h an onc e I t is a v e ry striking o n e as if t h e
.
,

lig h t c me fro wit h in a l u strous e l e v at e d

a m —
,

e xpr e ssion too e t h e r e al a n d of t h e spirit to b e

,

m e r e ly h ig h b r e d I t is o n e of t h e r e fi n e
-
.

m e nts Nature gi v e s to h e r id e al pi e c e s of h u
m a nity an d not h ing co ars e lurk s i n t h e cr e a
,

tion of t h e o n e wh o pr e s e nts it Th e Sout h .

e r n p allor is quit e di ffe r e n t — a d e a d but cl e a r

ol i v e v e ry admir abl e w h e n t h e skin is fi n e

,
.

Nort h e r n p al e n es s is r e li e v e d r at h e r t h a n d is
figure d by a f e w gold e n fr e ckl e s T h e y are .

m or e piqu ant t h an ot h e r wis e ;an d girls wit h

t h e pur e compl e xion w h ic h a tt e nds a uburn ,

blond e an d bro wn h air oug h t to consid e r t h e m

,

as c a pric e s of n a tur e to b l e nd t h e h ues of

brig h t warm h air an d sno wy skin W h e n as
,
.

l a rge an d almost as d a k as t h e p atc h e s o n t h e

,
r

tig e r lily e v e ry o n e wil l fin d t h e m som e t h ing

-
,

to ge t rid of wit h disp atc h Fr e c kl e s indic ate

.
 ENGL ISH C U CUMB ER C O SMETI C . 79

an e xc e ss of iro n i n t h e blood t h e sun a cting

,

o n t h e p a rticl e s i n t h e Skin as it do e s on i nd e l

ibl e i n k bringing out t h e color A v er y Si m

,
.

p l e wa
y of r e moving t h e m is s a id to b e as fol
lo ws :
T ak e fin e ly po wd e re d n itre (s altp e tr e ) a d ,
n

a pply it to t h e fr e ckl e s by t h e fing e r moist e n e d

w it h wat e r an d dipp e d i n t h e po wd e r W h en
.

p e rfe ctly don e an d j udicio u sly r e p e ate d it w ill ,

r e mov e t h e m e ffe ctu ally wit h out troubl e .

A n old Englis h pr e scription for t h e ski n

is to t ak e h alf a pint of blu e ski m m ilk -
,

slic e into i t as m uc h cucumb e r as i t w ill

cov e r an d l e t it st and an h our ;t h e n b at h e
,

t h e f a c e an d h a nds was h ing t h e m o ff wit h

,

fair wat e r w h e n t h e cucu mb e r e xtra ct is dry .

Th e l att e r is s a id to stimul at e t h e gro wt h

of h a r w h e r e it is l a cking if we ll an d f e
i ,
r

qu e ntly r u bb e d in I t would h e w ort h w h il e

.

to apply it to h ig h for e h e ads an d b ald cro wns .

R oug h Skin s from e xposur e to t h e wind i n

,

riding ro wing or y a c h ting troubl e m a ny l a

, , ,

di e s wh o wi ll b e gl ad to kno w t h at an appi i
,
80 T HE UG LY GIRL PAPERS .

c a tio n of cold cre a m or glyc e rin e at n g h t i

,

w s h e d o ff wit h fi n e c arb olic so ap in t h e mor n

a

ing will r e nd e r t h e m pr e s e n t abl e at t h e bre ak

,

fast t abl e wit h ou t looking lik e w om e n wh o

-
,

follo w t h e h ounds blo wzy an d burn e d Th e

,
.

simpl e st way to obvi at e t h e b ad e ffe cts of too

fr ee su n an d wind w h ic h a e apt on occ asion
,
r

to r e v e n ge t h e mse l v e s for t h e n e gl e ct too oft

e n S h o wn t h e rn b y t h e f a ir s e x i s to rub t h e
,
.

fa c e t h ro at an d a rms w e ll wit h cold cr e am or

, ,

pur e almond o i l bef o r e going o u t Wit h t h is

-
.

pre c aution o n e m ay com e h om e from a b e rry

p a rty or a s ai l wit h out a tr ac e of t h a t ginge r
b re ad e ff e c t too apt to follo w t h os e pl e asur e s
‘

C old cr e am m ad e fro m almond oil w it h no -

,

l ard or t allo w about it w ill ans we r e v e ry e n d

,

propose d by t h e u se of b utt e rmilk a fa vorit e ,

country pr e scription b u t o n e w h ic h young l a

,

di e s c a n h ardly pre fe r as a cosm e tic on a

‘

count o f its odor .

A d e lic at e an d e ffe cti v e pr e p ar ation for

rou g h s k ins e ruptiv e dis e as e s cuts or ulc e rs is
, ,

fo u n d i n a mixture of o n e ounc e of glyc e rin e ,

 C ARB OLI C B A LM . 81

h al f an ounce of ros e m ary wat e r an d t we nty

-
,

dro p s of c a rbolic acid In t h os e dr e ad ed irri

.

t a t i o n s of t h e skin occurring i n summ e r s c h ,

u

as h iv e s or prickly h e a t t h is wa s h g i v e s soot h
,

ing r e li e f Th e c arbolic a cid n e utrali ze s t h e

.

poiso n of t h e bl ood purifi e s an d disinfe cts t h e

,

e ruption an d h e als it r apidly

,
A solution of .

t h is a cid s ay fifty drops to an ounc e of th e

,

glyc e rin e appli e d a t nig h t forms a prot e ctio n

, ,

fro m rn u squ i t o e s T h o u g h m any p e opl e con

.
~

sid e r t h e r e m e dy e qu al to th e dis e as e const ant ,

u s e v e ry soon r e concil e s o n e to t h e cr e osotic

odor of t h e c arbolic a cid e sp e ci ally if th e pur e

,

crystalli ze d for m is u se d wh i ch is f ar l e ss ov e r
,

po we ring i n i ts fragr anc e t h a n th e common

sort T h os e wh o dislik e i t too m uc h to u se
.

i t at nig h t w ill find t h e sting of t h e bit e s ai

,

most mira c u lously cur e d a n d t h e blotc h e s r e

mov e d by touc h ing t h e m w it h t h e mixtur e i n

t h e morning T h is is p e nn e d w it h gra te ful

.

r e coll e ction of its e ffici e ncy aft e r t h e bite s of

Je rs e y m u squ i t o e s a f e w nig h ts ago B abi e s .

an d c h ildre n S h ould b e touc h e d wit h it in r e

83 Ti m UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

d u ced form to r e l i e v e t h e p ain t h e y fe e l from

,

ins e ct bit e s but do not kno w h o w to e xpre ss

,

e xc e pt by worrying Two or t h r e e drops of

.

a tt a r of ros e s in t h e pr e p ar a tion disguis e s t h e

s m e ll so a s to r e nd e r i t t l e abl e to h um an b e
o r »

ings t h oug h n o t so to m squ i to e s

,
u .

L adi e s wh o find t h a t se a ai r turns t h e i r h ai r

gray or wh o a e fe a rful of suc h a r e sult s h ould
,
r
,

k e e p it c ar e fully oil e d wit h som e v e g e t abl e O il ;

n ot glyc e rin e as t h a t combin e s wit h wa t e r too
,

r e adily to prot e ct t h e locks Th e r e cip e for .

cold cr e a m m ad e wit h more of t h e almond oil -

,

so as to form a s al v e is not a b ad se a d re ssing

,
-

for t h e h air an d th e spe rm a c e ti a n d wa x r e n

,

d e r it l e ss gr e a sy t h a n ordin a ry pr e p ar a tions .

A nim al pom ad e s gro w r ancid an d m ak e t h e ,

h e a d m ost unpl e as an t to touc h an d sm e ll .

M a ny pr e p ar a tions a e g i v e n to r e stor e t h e
r

color to d ark h air w h e n i t is lost t h rou g h ill

h e alt h or ov e rs tudy Th e f as h ion abl e s to
.

d y w it h tru e t a st e a dmir e gr ay h ai r w h e n in
a , ,

r ofusion a d d e e m it distinguis h e d w h e n a c
n
p ,

c o m p a ni e d by d a rk e y e s to w h ic h t h e contr ast
,
84 T HE UGLY G IRL PAPERS
-
.

glyc e rin e it is fit to se T h is is e xc e ll e nt f o r
,
u .

m aking t h e h a ir cu l M oist e n a lo k of h a ir
r .
’

w it h it n o t too w e t an d b us h round
, ,
w m r a ar

cu ling iron or put up i n p apillot e s I f t h e

r -
, .

curl com e out h a rs h an d sti ff brus h i t round ,

a cold i ron or curling stick w it h a v e ry l ittl e -

of t h e cosm e tic for k e e ping str ay h a ir in pl a c e ,

or cold cre am T o t h e r e cip e gi v e n in t h e l ast

.

c h apt e r anot h e r is add e d of p e r h aps fin e r pro ,

portions : O i l of s we e t almonds fi e p arts ; ,

v

sp e rm ac e ti t h re e p arts ;w h ite wax h alf a p art ;

, ,

a tt a r of ros e s t h r e e to fi e drops
,
M e lt t oge t h
v .

e r i n a s h allo w dis h o v e r h ot wat e r str ai n

, ,

t h roug h a p ie c e o f m u sl i n w h e n m e lt e d an d
‘

a s it b e gins to cool b e a t it w it h a sil\ e r spoon

'

till quit e cold an d of a sno wy w h it e n e ss I t .

is we ll to r u b it smoot h o a sl a b of m arb l e n

or porc e l ain b e for e putting i n gl ass box e s to

k e e p F or t h e h air u se s e v e n p a rts of almond
.

O i l to t h e oth e r proportions n a m e d Th e s e -
.

cr e t of m aking fin e cold cre a m li e s in stirring '

a n d b e a ti ng it we l l al l t h e tim e i t is cooling .

T h os e wh o h a v e t h e misfort u n e to contract
 T HE LAST RE SOR T . 85

cut an e o u s diso d e rs a ising from e xposur e to

r r

t h e cont a ct o f t h e l o w a n d d e gr ad e d a d -
n

c h a rit abl p e sons som e tim e s run n arro w risks

e r

of t h is kind o f o m scorbutic affe ctions o

— r r r

t h e fum e s of c e t a in m e dicin e s e a c h an d an y of
r
,

w h ic h a r e li abl e to produc e rough n e ss an d i n

fl a m m at i o n of t h e skin W ll b e gl a d of a sp e e dy
,
i

an d c e rt a in cur e for t h e ir afll i c t i o I t is a n .

was h of sulp h urous a cid (not su l p h uric) dilut e d ,

in t h e proportion of t h r e e p arts of soft w at e r

to o n e of t h e a cid an d us e d t h re e or four tim e s
,

a d ay till r e li e v e d I kn e w a young l ad y
.

w h os e fi n e compl e xion w as ruin e d by t h e

fum e s of m e dicin e Sh e adminis t e re d to h e r

gr a ndmot h e r w h o m Sh e t e nd e d wit h r e ligious

,

c ar e ;a n d t h i n k n g t h e re m ay b e ot h e rs i
,
r n

lik e c as e h ast e n to gi v e t h is pre scription S b

,
. u

To s ca— al l p a r a sit e s on furnitu r e h um an b e ings, ,

or p e ts a e quickly d e stroy e d by t h is appli c a

r ‘

tion .
86 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

C H A P T ER V III .

vic e of B e u ty
Se r a V ni t y b t P e f c t i o n
.
—No t f o r a ,
u r e —Eye
b w o f P e t ch L u
ro s ra r — F hi n bl B t h s T im
’
s —a ra as o a e a r

ming t e Ey el h
h — as es —
L u x u y f t h e T il e t It M gn e t r o o s a

i Ic fl e ce
n u — n A S f St im u l n t — A m te a e f th e T i a . a u rs o o

l te— Co m e ic G l o v e To R fin e t h e Skin f t h e Sh o u l
t s
— s e o

de d A m s — S l ph t e f Q u inin e f
rs an r u h
t e H h n —aFo r o or a

h
t e E y e b o w s a drE y e l h en — A H ml e Dye To Re
as s ar ss .
-

m o v e S ll o w n e
a — A H in t f
ss St u P eo p l e
o
. t — P erfu m ed or .

B t h ing p o w d e
a - r .

IT is a wond e r th a t so f e w e duc at e d p e o ple

addr e ss t h e ms e lv e s to t h e s e rvic e of b e a uty i n

t h e h um an form I t is r e fin e d to study d r a
.

e i e s or d e sig n costum e s for t h e a dornm e nt

p r

of t h e b ody but n ot to d e v e lop t h e p e rfe ction

,

of t h e body its e lf H a ir dre ss e rs p e rfum e rs .

-
, ,

a d t a ilors fi n d a mpl e consol a tio n for b e ing

n

t h e nint h p art O f m e n or som e t h ing l e ss i n , ,

public e stim ation sinc e t h e world finds t h e ir ,

work a n e c e ssity a n d a mply r e p ays it ,

Who .

m ak e fortun e s fa ste r a mong th e working cl ass e s -

 LU X URIOUS B AT HS . 87

t h a n t h os e Wh o minist e r to t h e d e sire for

b e a uty l e t u s c al l it rat h e r t h an t h e s e v e re r
, .

n am e of v a nity ? Th e arts of t h e toil e t a e

‘

a dv a nc e d to t h e r a nk of a prof e ssion a bro a d .

E n glis h fas h ion j ourn als d e cl a r e t h is i n t h e ir

a dv e rtis e m e nts .E st ablis h m e nts i L ondon n

an d at f as h io n ab l e wat e ri g pl a c e s offe r brig h t

n -

l y furnis h e d p a rlors w h e r e o n e m ay e nj oy t h e
luxurious soot h ing of e v e ry appli anc e of t h e
toil e t in succ e ssion Th e war m b ath i n all
.
,

th e a ppe aling pl e a sur e of m arbl e porc e l ain , ,

an d gold inst e ad of dingy O il clot h s an d

,
-

r e e king zin c b asins giv e s pl ac e to t h e d e ft

,

h a nds of t h e h air b a t h e r a n d t h e c h iropodist

-
,

a n d t h e s e to t h e dr e ss e r wh o a rr a ng e s t h e ,

locks qu ickly a d a rtifici ally dri e d in t h e

,
n
,

m ost e l e g a ntly Simpl e s t vl e T h e n com e s t h e .

cosm e tic artist w h o r e mov e s blotc h e s

,
d an

Spe cks f om t h e fa c e w it h quick ci d s l v e s

r a ,
a

it wit h soot h ing was h e s or a ppli e s e molli e nt ,

p ast e s w h ic h l e a v e soft f e s h n e ss b e h ind Th e

r .

v ulg arity of p a int d e n am e l is not allo we d

an

in t h e s e e sta blis h m e nts t h oug h t h e O pe at ors

,
r
88 T 111 5
I G LY
'
l G IRL PAPERS .

h a v e good kno wl e dge of all s e cre ts of t h e ir

art .In rro i o u s d y e s ar e us e d as novic e s n e v e r
x

c a n a pply t h e m s u p e rfluous h a i s a r e r e mov e d

,
r
,

a n d e y e bro ws a n d e y e l as h e s a r e c a r e d for by

t h e most skillf u l h a nds Th e form e r h a v e c v

.

e
y
r unn e c e ss a ry h a ir r e mov e d an d a e t h inn e d ,
r

to t h e p e ncil e d lin e t h e y form in t h e portra its

of Ve n e ti a n l adi e s wh o s e c u re d t h is p e culi ar
,

c h arm i n t h e s a m e way I f I could only find .

out h o w P e trarc h s L a ur a trimm e d h e r e y e

’

b ro ws an d gi v e t h e m e t h od to my r e ad e rs !
,

Wit h a p air of fa iry lik e scissors t h e l as h e s

-

a e trimm e d a h a ir br e a dt h a d brus h e d w it h
r -
,
n

s ab l e p e n cils con v eying an ointm e nt w h ic h i r r

cre as e s t h e ir gro wt h Th e n a ils a e polis h e d

. r
,

a n d t h e h a nds ind u e d w it h soft a d p e rfum e d n

oils w h ic h l e a v e no tra c e P icture t h e l uxury .

of suc h a pl ac e an d suc h a tt e ntion inst e ad of ,

t h e fro wzy rooms a n d a re l e ss s e rv a nts of a

c

common h a ir d e ssing s aloon ! Th e m agn e tic

-
r

b e n e fit of suc h ope ra tions oug h t to coun t for

m uc h i n e l e ga n t p h ysic al cultu re It u n m i S .
,

t k ab ly soot h e s t h e s s t e m an d fre s h e ns its

a v ,
 GIRLS HELPING E AC H O T HER . 89

po we rs b e t t e r t h a n an y n arcotic stimul ant .

M or e t h an o n e of t h e most brilli a nt write rs of

t h e tim e is i n t h e h a bit of b a t h ing an d m ak

ing a f l l toil e t b e fore composition fe e ling

u

its m agic influ e nc e o n t h e mind i r end e ring n

on e s t h oug h ts brig h t a n d h appy

’
.

But bl e ss e d wat e r a d simpl e s c h e mic als

n ,

a d s troki
n s do t h e ir work i n ston e war e a d
rr -
n
g ,

top b e d ooms as we ll as i n b at h s lin e d wit h

r

porc e l ain b e h ind t h e porti ere of a P omp ado u r

dr e ssing room C l e v e r girls c an do muc h for
-
.

e c h ot h e r in t h e s e m att e rs ;a n d l e t m e h op e
a

no o e will h a v e to ask more t h an sixt e e n pe o

n

l e b e for e finding a fri e nd wit h n e rv e e noug h

p
to trim h e e y e l as h e s for h e r as an a m bitious
r ,

m aid e n Onc e did A fre s h h andful of pr e

.

s c i t io n s for t h e s e a m at e urs is t ak e n fro m

r
p
P a ris a ut h oriti e s .

C osm e tic glov e s for w h ic h t h e r e is suc h

d e m a nd ar e spr e ad insid e Wit h t h e follo win g
pre p a ra tion : Th e yolks of t wo fr e s h e ggs
.

b e at e n wit h t wo t e as poonfuls of t h e oil of

s we e t al m onds o n e ounc e of ros e wate r an d
,
~

,
90 T HE UGLY GI RL PAPERS .

t h irty six drops of tincture of b e nzoin M ak e a

-
.

p ast e of t h is a n d e i th e r anoi t t h e glov e s wit h

,
n

i t or spr e a d it fre e ly on t h e h a nds an d dr a w

,

t h e glo v e s o n a ft e r wa rd O f cours e t h e r e is no
.

virtu e i n th e glov e s s a v e as t h e y prot e ct t h e

h ands from drying or soiling t h e b e d lin e n -
.

A p as t e for t h e ski n of t h e s h ould e rs a d n

a rms is m a d e fro m t h e w h it e s of four e gg s

boil e d i n ros e wat e r w it h t h e a ddition of a

-
,

grai n or t wo of alum b e at e n till t h ick S pr e ad

,
.

t h is O n t h e ski n a n d cov e r wit h old lin e n

'

W e a r it ov e rnig h t or all t h e aft e rnoon b e fore

,

a p a rty w h e r e o n e d e sir e s to a pp e a r i n full

dre ss T h is cosm e tic giv e s gr e at fir mn e ss an d

.

purity to t h e skin an d m ay b e us e d to ad
,

v a nt ag e by p e rsons h a ving soft fl abby fl e s h ,

.

A was h to s timul ate t h e gro wt h of h a ir in

c as e of b aldn e ss i s m ad e from e qu al p arts of
t h e tinctur e of sulp h at e of quinin e an d a r o

rn a t i c t i ncture .

F or c a using t h e e y e bro ws to gro w w h e n

lost by fi e u se t h e sulp h at e of quinin e fi v e
r
,
—

gra ins i n a n o u nc e of alco h ol .

92 T HE . UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

a t -an
y l a rg e drug stor e for about t h irty c ents
-
,

an oun ce .

Th e r e cip e s w h ic h follo w w ill b e of s p e ci al

v a lu e in t h e wa rm d ays of e a rly Spring Th e .

first cont ains n e a rly al l t h e e ge t abl e m e di v !

cin e s i n common u se for purifying the blood

an d W ill pre v e nt t h e l assitud e an d b ilious
sym p tom s w h ic h o v e rcloud m any a s wee t
spring d ay W h e n ru ad e by on e S o wn h and
.
’
,

so t h at t h e purity an d e xc e ll e nc e of t h e ingre
d ie n ts c an b e insur e d t h e mixtur e is f a r b e t
,

t e r t h a n most of t h e blo o d pu i fi e rs a n d tonics

-
r

pre scri b e d b y t h e f aculty I t is gi v e n h e re.

b e c au se it r e mov e s t h e s allo wn e ss an d u n
h e alt h y i ris h u e s of t h e compl e xio n at a se a
son w h e n a girl s c h ee k s h ould we ar its brig h t
’

e st cl e ar e
,
s t fl am e .

H alf an oun c e e ac h of spruc e h e mlock an d , ,

s a s ap arilla b ark d and e lion burd ock an d ye l

r , , ,

l o w dock in o n e g allon of wat e r ;boil h alf a

,
n

h our str ain h ot an d a d d t e n d r Ops of O i l of

, ,

Spruc e an d s as s afr as mix e d W h e n cold ad d .

‘

h alf a po und of bro wn suga r an d h alf a cup

 S A SSAFRA S FOR EMBONPOIN T . 93

of y e ast Le t it st and t we l v e h ours i n a j ar

.

cov e r e d tig h t an d bottl e Use t h is f r e ely as

’

.
,

an ic e d drink . T h is is a go od r e cipe for t h e

root b e e r w h ic h Ne w York e rs lik e to t aste
-

during war m mont h s .

P eopl e inclin e d to e rn b o n po i n t fe e l t h e bur

-

d e n o f mort ality oppr e ssi v e during t h e first

h e ats of t h e c al e nd ar T h e y w ill b e gl ad to
.

h e a r fro m a h ill country doctor w h o s e pr ais e

-
,
‘

i s i n m any h ous e h olds t h a t a strong d e coction

,

of s ass afras d r ank fre qu e ntly w il l r e d u c e th e

fle s h as r apidly as an y r e m e dy kno wn T ak e .

i t e it h e r ic e d or h o t as fan ci e d wit h suga r if

, ,

pre fe rr e d I t is not ad vis abl e h o we v e r to

.
, ,

t ak e t h is t e a i n c e rt ai n st at e s of h e al t h an d ,

t h e f a mily p h ysici a n s h ould b e consult e d b e

fore t aking it A strong infusion is ad e a t

. ni

t h e r a t e of an ounc e of s ass afr a s to a q a r t of u

wa t e r
. Boil it h alf an h our v e ry slo wly an d ,

l e t it stan d til l col d h e ating aga in if d e sir e d

, ,

an d k e e ping it fro m t h e a i r .

A troubl e sc a rc e ly to b e n am e d a mong e r

fin e d p e rsons is profus e p e rspir ation w h ic h ,

94 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
‘

ruins clot h ing an d comfort alik e F or t h is it

.

is r e comm e nd e d to b at h e t h e fe e t h ands an d
.
,

pa rts of t h e body w h e re t h e s e cr e tion is g re a t

e st w it h cold infusion o f ros e m ary s ag e , ,

or t h ym e an d a ft e r ward d ust t h e stockings

,

an d und e r g a rm e nts wit h

-
a mixtur e of t wo

an d a h alf dr a c h ms of c amp h or four ounc e s

,

of orris root an d sixt e e n ounc e s of st arc h th e

-
, ,

w h ol e r e d uc e d to imp alp abl e po wd e r Ti e it

.

i n a co ars e m usli n b ag an d s h ak e i t ov e r t h e
,

clot h es T h is m ak e s a v e ry fi n e b at h ing po w
.
’

d er .
96 T HE UGLY GIRL P APERS .

compl e xion t wo t h ings w it h w h ic h no wom a n

c an b e w h olly un a ttr a ctiv e Th e o e is t h e . n

Sign of m e nt al t h e ot h e r of p h ysic l h e alt h

,
a .

N o wond e r n tu e m ak e s t h e m SO w inning
a r .

To S h o w w h t I m e an l e t us m e ntion som e
a ,

com m on f ul t s d t h e ir antidote s N ot h ing

a ,
an .

i s m or e d lig h tful t h n pulling our n e ig h bors

e a

in pi e c e s wit h a good moti e f i t

,
v o r .

C h r isti a n a is ov e r t h irty no r e ason in t h e

—

l e ast wh y sh e s h ould not b e as a dmire d a s a

t h re e d ays ros e for o n e of t h e most b e a utif u l
’
,

w om e n i n Ne w Y ork w h om e v e ry o n e is i n ,

f at u a t e d wit h is o v e r Sixty Ye t nobody t h inks

,
.

of C h risti an a s looks for t h e simpl e r e aso n

’
,

t h at sh e h as giv e n u p t h inking of t h e m h e r
s e lf b e li e ving h e poor ski n c a n ot b e i m
— r n

prov e d nor t h e sti ff h ig h c arri age of h e r

, ,

s h ould e rs b e c h ange d Th e d e pt h of h e r e y e s
.

an d h e r r e lly good col r a e lost w it h t h e s e

a o r

d e fe cts To j u d g e h o w t h e r e m e di e s s h ould
.

b e a ppli e d scrutin iz e h e e nti e mod of l i

,
r r e v

ing S unris e i Ja
.
,
v o
n Jun e an d sh e is
n u ar r ,

n ot u p! T h is wil l n e v e r s e rv e a c andid ate

 OPEN A IR AT SUNRISE . 97

for be auty Th e first r ays of th e s u n t h e

.
,

purity of e arly a i h a v e as pote nt an e ffe ct

r
,
'

“
o n t h e compl e xio n a s t h e noon r ays on t h e

we bs of lin e n i n t h e bl e a c h i ng g r ou nd By -

a l l m e ans if o n e m u st r o b d aylig h t for Sl e e p

'

, ,

tak e t h e h o u r s f rOrn t e n to t h re e but s e e t h e ,

fi r e s i n t h e e ast fro m out o f d o o rs e e n if your- -

,
'

h e ad touc h e d t h e pillo w only t wo h ours b e

fore I don t b e li e v e i n an y spe ci al morality i n
.
’

ge tting up e arly but I d o kno w its b e n e fits

,

o n n e rv e s an d circul a tio n of t h e blood T h e re .

i s a tonic i n t h e d e w cool a i r a ling e ring of

-
,

n ig h t s rom an c e t h a t sti s w h il e it soot h e s t h e

’
r
,

b lood l ik e a fi n e m agn e tic h and .

Bu t ge tting up a n d staying in t h e h ous e

wo n t improv e on e s compl e xion
’ ’
Ho w m u c h .

of h e r ros e an d lily fac e t h e E nglis h p e as ant

- -

wom a n o we s to h e wa lk to t h e re a ping fi e l d
r -

a t d aybr e a k is we l l kno w n A fte r t h e fi s t

'

. . . r

s oft d ays of F e b ru a ry a n d M a rc h t h e re is n ot h

i n g to h ind e r C h risti a n a fro m r e ading h e r

p raye r book or m orning p ape r o n th e porc h i n
-

t h e s u n lig h t if sh e c h oos e to do t h is r a t h e r
.
,
98 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS .

t h an rak e t h e d e a d l e a v e s fro m t h e grass ,

s we e p t he st e p s or do som e t h ing to stir h e r

,

l agg a rd bloo d I f i t is cold l e t h e r pl a nt h e r

.
,

s e lf at t h e s unni e st windo w se w r u n h e r m a , ,

c h in e lo u ng e an d e at t h e re till sh e is n o more
, , ,

a fr a id of suns h in e t h an of an ot h e r blood r e
y
l a tion O ur wome n wan t to imit ate F r e nc h
.

se ns e an d sit i n t h e b a lconi e s a n d p a rks to do

,

t h e i work W h e n t h e y los e t h e d e te sta bl e

r .

v ic e of se l f con sciousn e ss t h a t s aps A m e rica n

-

we ll b e ing i n all ways t h e y wi l l b e a b l e to

-
,

l i v e a t t h e ir eas e m e n t s se wing Singing r e ad

, , ,

ing as t h oug h tl e ss a n d unnotic e d as t h e w h it e

,

dov e s soari ng abov e t h e m w h e re t h e suns h in e

is wid e st I t is m a tte r of custom m e re ly
. .

But C h risti a n a s bre akfa st is r e ady by t h is

’

tim e an d we will se e w h a t sh e e ats Co ffe e

,
.
'

we ll h ous e k e e p e rs buy t h e r e ad y g r ound e o f

,
-

f e e n ow an d it i s m i x e d t ra s h wa nting t h e
, ,

h e ar tin e ss of a good pure cup b u t no gre a t ,

h a r m at worst Me a t : do yo u call t h at bit

.

t h e w idt h of t wo fing e rs crisp e d gr e as e d a t , ,

o n e e n d r aw a d bl e e ding a t t h e ot h e r fit su e
,
n ,
100 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

a tiny sau c e r e tt e as if i t h e ld som e E as t In

,

di an con dim e nt T h e r e oug h t to b e a s uc e r

. a

pil e d w it h t h e m or som e s a vo y v e g e t abl e d e l

,
r

i c at e ly cook e d ;for br e akf a st oug h t to b e n e xt

to t h e h e a rti e st m e a l of t h e d ay I t is f ar t h e .

b e st way to t ak e co ffe e a d bre ad o n rising n

,

a n d e a t t h e m e a l l a t e r w h e n o n e h as W ork e d
into an app e tit e for i t T h os e wh o find it i m
.

possibl e to alt e r t h e i r h abits e noug h for t h is

u su ally h a v e d uti e s w h ic h oug h t to c all t h o n r

u
p long e noug h b e for e to b e quit e h ungry by

s e v e n or e ig h t o clock t h e usu a l h ours in t h is

’
,

coun try for br e akfast .

T ak e away t h at t h i n slip of to ast ;it m ak e s

o n e turn in v alid to s e e it W V h a t do yo u e all
.

t h is gr ay bro ad c e ll e d p allid st u fl ? Bre ad

,
-
,

good y e ast br e a d ? I f t h e re is an y t h ing i n

t ol e r abl e i t is w h a t t h e m ak e rs of i t commonly
,

c all good h om e m ad e bre ad I t is m e aly or

-
.
,

bitt e r or gray a d co a rs e gra in e d sad looking

,
n - -
,

w it h w h it e crust as if t h e o wn e rs we r e too
,

poor to afford fi r e to b ak e it t h oro u g h ly G i ve .

m e po or b r e ad an d I c an e at it i n a Spirit of
,
 T HE RI C HES T B RE A D . 10 1 ~

re sign atio n ; but t h is dom e stic h ypocrisy of '

good bre ad lib e l s t h e w h e a t t h a t m ad e it a n d ,

a rr a n s t h e t a st e O f t h os e wh o e at it W e re
g
r .

it e v e r so goo d t h e re is som e t h ing b e tt e r ye t

,

t h e crisp unbolt e d c ak e t h a t ling e rs wit h n utty

,

ric h n e ss on t h e p al at e onc e t asting of w h ic h

,

we a ns o n e fro m t h e i mpov e ris h e d g e ntility

of w h ite bre a d fore v e r I t is not urg e d o n
.

t h e scor e of b e ing w h ol e som e Th e p h ras e h as

.

b e e n so m uc h abus e d t h a t t h e cry of h e alt h

ful food in v a ri ably sugge sts som e t h ing w h ic h
”

do e sn t t aste good But t h e stre ngth an d

’
.

ric h n e ss a n d coloring of w h e at c ak e r e c e m -

m e nd i t to an y br e akfast fan ci e r T h e re is .

no u se a i m ing at fi n e grain e d compl e xions -

w it h out t h e u se of co a rs e br e a d a t e v e ry m e al .

A slic e of G r a h am bre ad a t br e akfas t wil l

not count e ract th e e vil t e nd e nci e s of i ncorr e ct
di e t t h e r e st of t h e d ay W h e n yo u ge t your
.

co ars e bre ad t wo or t h r e e slic e s wi l l not b e

,

too muc h at a m e al S uc h oug h t to b e t h e

.

br akfast of a young l ady wh o wis h e s to h a v e

e

roundn e ss of contour unfailing spirits an d se lf

, ,
«
 02 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

comm and wit h r e ady str e ngt h for wa lking

, ,

working or study
,
Br ai n work t ak e s food as
.
-

m uc h as bodily l abor B e t we e n M rs O Fl a . .
’

h e rty in t h e l a undry an d t h e fait h f u l l ad y e ditor

of a n e wsp ap e r it is prob abl e t h a t th e form e r
,

h as t h e e a si e st tim e of it an d us e s l e ss str e ngt h

,
.

Th e wom e n w ort h a n y t h ing a e built an d r

sust ain e d b v h e arty fe e ding I t is SO t h at sing .

e rs an d d anc e rs e a t a n d l e ctur e rs a n d a ut h o rs
,

—G risi a n d J e nny L ind M rs K e mbl e a n d ,

.

R istori Ms E d wards t h e nov e list an d w it h

,
r .
, ,

h e r n e a rly e v e ry w rit e r of note at t h is d ay .

T h e y ar e we ll nouris h e d wom e n w h os e app c

-
,

t i t e s would e mb a rr a ss t h e c andy loving sylp h s -

w h os e us e fuln e ss a mounts to not h ing mor e

t h an t h a t of c h e a p porc e l ain Wom e n wh o .

e x e rcis e littl e of cours e e a t l ittl e ;i n t h e e n d

t h e y c an do not h ing b e c a us e t h ey a r e not

,

su ffi ci e n tly f e d T h e re is n o grossn e ss i n e at
.

ing l arge ly if o n e work we ll e noug h to con t

s a m e t h e str e n gt h afford e d Th e b e st e ngin e s

.

a e b e st f e d
r Th e grossn e ss li e s i n e ating a n d
.

b e ing id l e A wom an wh o limits h e r e x e r

.
1 04 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

of ab us e it is e asily don e Walking w it h a

,
.

p ail of wat e r in e ac h h and is r a t h e r dull work

u nl e ss t h e r e is a c all for dom e stic h e lp A .

h o me ly but v e ry e ff e ctu al way of e d u c atin g

th e muscl e s is to we a r we igh ts f ast e n e d to th e

S h ould e rs A s h a wl stra p a ns we rs e v e ry pur

.
-

pos e buckl e d o n t h e s h ould e rs wit h t h e h andl e

,

b e t we e n t h e m o n t h e b ack a n d faste n ing a ,

fl at i ron of fi e or Si x pounds we ig h t to t h e
’
-
v

str aps w h ic h h ang und e r t h e a rms A n e xtra .

buckl e m ay b e s e we d h alf way do wn e ac h -

str ap t o f ast e n t h e iron o t h e e n d by a s e cond

,
‘

l oop Th e we i gh ts m ay b e worn w h il e r e ad
.

ing or w riting for h ours a n d wil l b e found ,

r at h e agr e e bl e to b al anc e t h e stooping pro

r a

p e n si t
y by t h ro wing t h e str e ss on fre s h mus

cl e s Wit h or wit h out i t nin e t e nt h s of wom e n

.
,

fro m e ig h te e n y e a s old u p wa rd w ill n e e d an

r

ot h e r simpl e support to re li e v e t h e m uscl e s of

t h e trunk b e l o w t h e wa ist I t m att e rs littl e
.

w h a t c a us e s t h is fe e bl e n e ss w h e t h e r too h a rd
,

w ork t h we ig h t of skirts o d g e n e r a tion of

,
e ,
r e

t h e m uscul a fibr e f om wa nt of e x e rcis e a n d

r r
 L INEN GIRDLES . 10 5

l a c k of fr e s h ai r I ts r e li e f is i mpe rativ e t o
'

pre s e rv e bloom an d life of an y kin d wort h

c lli n g life I f an y girl or wom an c an not
a .

d a l e e run up st a i rs t ak e long wal ks or st a nd

’
n , , ,

a bout t h e h ous e work n o m att e r h o w slig h t

,

t h e f a tigu e su pport m u st b e provid e d

,
Wom .

e n we a r cors e ts an d sa t h e y c an n ot e xist
y ,

wit h ou t t h e m w h e n t h e d e m and for ai d of

,

t h e r e l a x e d m u scl e s of t h e h ips an d b ack ,

t h oug h f a r m ore i mp e rativ e is n egl e ct e d Th e ,

.

m e ans a e e ry simpl e : a b and ag e of lin e n

r v

t o w e ling soft a n d cool buckl e d ti e d or pin

, , , ,

ned as tig h t as w ill b e comfort ab l e a n d so

, ,

a rr ang e d as to r e li e v e e v e ry m uscl e t h a t f e e ls

fatigu e T h is is wort h all t h e m anufa cture d

.

a ppli anc e s in t h e m ark e t an d its prompt u se

'

a v e rts a h undr e d distr e ssing cons e q u e nc e s At

‘

t h e first appro a c h of d e bility t h e s e girdl e s

s h ould b e worn as t h e y h a e b e e n from a

,
v n

c i e n t tim e s a mong G r e e k a d J e wis h wom e n n .

I t is not sur e t h a t t h e ir Offic e of pr e v e ntion i s

not more e ss e nti al t h an t h at of cure Tig h t
.
.

co rs e ts are an abomin ation for t h ey i nte rf e e ,

r
106 TH E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

wit h fl e xi b i l ity an d SO wi t h t h at c onstant e x

,
~

e r e is e Of t h e trunk m uscl e s w h ic h alon e c a n

—
k e e p t h e m in ton e k e e p t h e m from d e ge n e ra
tion an d a trop h y A S to t h e muscl e s of t h e
.

b ack a n d abdom e n affe ct e d by t h e girdl e a ,

d e gre e of support j ust suffici e nt to e n c ou r

a e t h e m to t h e ir w ork a n d pr e v e nt t h e ir
g ,

g i ving it u p i n f atigu e an d d e sp air will e x e r ,

~

cis e an d stre ngt h e n t h e m A b and age tig h t e r

.

t h an is n e e d e d for t h is wil l do h a rm not ,

only by k e e ping t h e m uscl e s idl e a n d so ,

we ak e ning t h e m but by compre ssing t h e a h

,

d o m i n al v isc e ra an d t h us pro d ucing num e r

,

ous e vils .

T h e re is a gam e c h ildre n pl ay c all e d wring “

t h e to we l i n w h ic h t wo cl asp h a nds a n d w h irl

”
,

t h e ir a rms ov e r t h e i r h e ads w it h out los i ng

h old t h a t e v e ry wom a n oug h t to practic e to
,

k e e p h e r m uscl e s fl e xi b l e H ardly an y e x e r
.

cise could b e d e vis e d w h ic h would giv e pl ay

to so m any muscl e s at onc e A w om an o u g h t .

to be s lit h e fro m h e ad to h e e l a s a w illo w

a

wan d not for t h e s ak e of b e a uty onl y b u t

, ,
10 8 T HE UGLY GIRL P APER S - .

CH A P T ER X .

Th e B o nni e t ! t e i C h i t nd m —A Wo d t o M t h
s a n r s e o . r o e rs

an d A u n t — Di ff n t V ni t i s — Th So w f U gly
s e re a e e rro s o

—
Wo m n R cip e f e . A nci n t B u t y — S nd W h
e s o an e ea . a as .

C l o f t h e N il — E mb c t i n f t h H nd
-
o r or a s . ro a o or e a s .

So p t o B l e ch t e A m
a h — a —
F e ckl L o t i o n s A rt i t ic r s r e s

E n t h u i m t t h e T il e t
s as a o .

WA S th e l ast c h a pt e r t o o m uc h of a s e rmon
on C h risti an a s br e a kf st ? Y ou t h ink so ’
a ,

K a t e wh o a e l o gi g t o l e rn som e a t t h a t
,
r n n a r

m y m ak e y o u t h e b o
a i e st K at e i n C h rist e n rrn

dom Y ou s ay your h ands a e ro u g h an d

. r un

s i g h tly your h air gro ws w h e r e y o u d o n o t

,
r

wa nt i t a n d is n on e too t h ick w h e r e it oug h t

“

to b e Y our e y e bro ws a e b u h y a most u n

.
— r
‘

s ~

fe mini n e tr ait t h t m ak e s you look fi e rc e s a ,

a a

l a m b wit h must ac h e s Y ou don t s e e m lov e l y .

’

to yours e lf a d t h is consciousn e ss m k e s you

,
n a

stiff an d Sh y in your m ann e r S om e body i s . .

to b l am e for t h is sta te of t h ings E it h e r your .

 LOS T DOWER . 10 9

mot h e r or yo u r aunt or t h e l ady princip a l of

, ,

t h e sc h ool w h e re you S tudi e d oug h t to h a v e ,

t ak e n yo u i n h and b e for e yo u we re fo urte e n ,

a n d s h o we d o u t h e r e m e di e s for t h e s e d e fe cts
y
t h a t we r e to aff e ct your spirits an d comfort in

a ft e r life-
A gi l s h ould b e t au g h t to t ak e
. r

c a r e of h er skin an d h a ir j u st as Sh e is to h old
h e r dre ss out of t h e dust a n d not to crumpl e ,

h e r s as h w h e n sh e sits do wn O n e t h ing will .

n o t m ak e h e r va in m o r e t h an a not h e r T h e re
"
.

a e m any v a n ti e s to b e foun d in wome n s

’
r i

c h ar act e r O ne is v ai of kno wing t h ree

. n

l angu ag e s o n e of h e r S u nd ay sc h ool d e votion

,
-
,

a not h e r of h e p att e rn t e mp e r a n d o n e of h e r
r
,

pr e tty fac e O f all t h e s e e rrors t h e l ast is

.
,

m O St e n d u r ab l e E v e ry a ttr a ction fi l ch e d fro m

'
‘

a gir l by n e gl e ct or d e sign s so m uc h stol e n I

fro m h e do wry t h at n e v e r c a n b e r e pl a c e d
r .

Victor H ugo s a vs t h a t h e wh w ould kno w o

s u ff e ring S h ould l e a r t h e sorro ws of wom e n

n .

Le t h im s y of u gly wo m e n an d h e will touc h

a ,

t h e d e pt h of bitt e rn e ss W h at t e ars t h e pl a i n
.

on e s sh e d o n sil e n t pi llo ws s h inking e v e n ,

r
1 10 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

from th e p al e b e a utiful moons h in e t h at c on

,

t r ast s so f at ally w it h t h e ir h o e l i n e ss T h ey
rn .

would gi v e y e ars of lif e to w i n o e of b e a uty n .

T h is r e gr e t is n atur al irr e sistibl e a n d n ot to

, ,

b e forbidd e n B e tt r l e t t h e gri e f h a v e i ts
. e

way till t h e busy p e riod of life t ak e s a wo r n

a n s t h o u g h ts o ff h e rs e lf an d sh e forg e ts to
’
,

c are w h e t h e r sh e is b e a utiful or not Da m .

up t h e sluic e s of an y sorro w a n d i t d e e p e ns ,

an d gro ws wid e r IS t h is tr e a ting a p e culi arly

.

fe minin e r e gre t o v e r t e nd e rly ? T h is i s writ

- ~

t e n i n r e m e mbr a nc e of a girl wh o t h oug h t h e r

s e lf so h om e ly t h a t sh e bsolut e ly pray e d t h at
a

sh e mig h t d i e an d go to b e p e rfe ct i n h e a v e n .

M or e t h a n o n e girl m ak e s suc h a wis h t h is

nig h t b e for e sm all m irrors i n cott ag e or m an
sion c h amb e rs wit h n o e ye but h e r o wn t o
,

sc a n h e h op e l e ss fe atur e s W h y do e sn t som e
r .
’

o e Op e n a sc h ool of fi n e a rts lit e r ally cl s

n ,
e

b ea ms a r t s an d m ak e a gr e a t e r succ e ss t h a n
-
,

Wort h b y improving we ar e s inste ad of cos

,
r

t u m es ?

Till t h a t tim e com e s ,

l e t us m ak e th e b e st of
1 12 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

wit h rubbing cold c re a m we ll i nto th e Skin .

T h is e ffe ctu ally r e m ov e s t h e roug h n e ss c a us e d

by h ous e work a n d s h ou l d b e us e d e v e ry d ay
-
.
,

fi rst r e moving i n k or v e ge t abl e sta in s with

a cid .

A l ways rub t h e spot w it h cold cr e a m or O i l

a fte r using a cid o n t h e fing e s r Th e cre a m
.

suppli e s t h e pl ac e of t h e n a t u r al O i l of t h e
skin w h ic h t h e a cid r e mov e s wit h t h e st ain
,
.

T o g i v e a fi n e color to t h e n a ils th e h and s ,

a n d fing e rs must b e we ll l at h e r e d a n d wa s h e d

w it h sc e nt e d so ap ; t h e n t h e n ai ls m ust b e
rubb e d w it h e qu al p arts of C inn ab a r a n d e m
er
y
,
follo w e d by oil of bitt e r al m onds To .

t ak e w h it e Sp e cks fro m t h e n ails m e lt e qu al

,

p arts of pitc h an d turp e n tin e i n a sm all cup ,

ad d to it vin e g a r an d po wd e r e d sulp h ur R ub .

t h is on t h e n ails an d t h e sp e cks wi ll soon dis

,

a ppe a r . Pi tc h an d myrr h m e lt e d tog e t h e r

m ay b e us e d wit h t h e s am e r e s u lts .

A n e mbroc ation for w h it e ning a d soft e n n .

ing t h e h ands an d a rms w h ic h d a te s f ar b ack

, ,

p ossi b ly to Ki ng Ja m e s s ti m e s i s m ad e fro m
’
,
 PO WERFUL A PPLI CAT IONS . 13

myr rh O ounc e ; h on e y four ounc e s ; ye l

,
ne ,
‘

l o w wa t wo ounc e s ;ros e wat e r Si x ounc e s

x, -
,
.

Mi x t h e w h ol e i n o n e we ll b l e d c d m ass for -
n
f

u se ,
m e lting t h e wa ros e wat e r an d h on e y
x, -
,

toge t h e r i a dis h o v e r boiling wa t e r an d ad d

n
,

ing t h e m yrr h w h il e h ot R ub t h is t h ickly;

ov e r t h e skin b e for e going to b e d I t is goo d .

for c h app e d surfa c e s a d would m ak e an e x

,
n

c e l l e t m a sk for t h e f a c e
n .

To i m prov e t h e Skin of th e h ands an d arms

t h e follo wing old E nglis h r e cip e is giv e n t h e ,

p rincipl e of w h ic h is o w r e vi v e d i n di ff e re n t
n

cosm e tic combin ations T ak e t wo ounc e s of

.

fi e h a d so ap Ol d l V i n d s or or almond so ap
n r —

-
an d dissolv e it in t wo ounc e s of l e mon j uic e .

A dd o e ounc e of t h e O il of bitt e r almonds

n

a n d as muc h oil of t ar t a r M ix t h e w h ol e a d
.
,
n

stir we l l till it is like so ap a d u se it to was h

,
n

t h e h ands T h is cont ains th e most po we rful

.

ag e nts w h ic h c an s afe ly b e a ppli e d to t h e skin ,

a n d it S h o u ld not b e u s e d o n scr atc h e s or c h ap ~

p e d h ands F or
. t h e l att e r a d e lic a t e Ointm e nt

is m ad e from t h r ee ounc e s of oil of s wee t al

1 14 THE U G LY GIRL PAP ERS -
.

monds an ou n c e of sp e rma c e ti an d h al f an
, ,

ounc e of ric e flo r M e lt t h e s e ov e r a slo w

u .

fi e k e e p stirring till cold a d a d d a f e w drops

r , ,
n

of ros e O il T h is m k e s a good color for t h e

-
. a

lips by mixing a littl e alk an e t po wd e r w it h it ,

a n d m ay b e us e d to t i ng e t h e fi n e r tips I t
g
-
.

is a t l e ast h a rml e ss .

O il of almonds sp e rm ac e ti w h it e wax an d
, , ,

w h it e sug a r c a ndy in e qu al p a rts m e lt e d to

-
, ,

ge t h e r form a good w h ite s alv e for t h e lips

,

a n d c h e e ks i n cold w e at h e A fi n e cold cr e a m r .
,

m uc h pl e asant e r to u se t h a n t h e mixture s of
l a rd an d t allo w commonly sold und e r t h at
n am e is t h us m ad e
,

M e lt tog e t h e r t wo ounc e s of oil of almonds

a n d o n e dr a c h m e a c h of wh it e wax an d sp e r m

a c e ti ;w h il e w a rm a d d t wo ounc e s of ros e wa -

ter
,
a n d or a ng e fl o we r wa t e r -
h alf a n ounc e .

N ot h ing b e tt e r t h an t h is will b e found i n t h e

r ange of toil e t s alv e s .

A was h for r e moving t an fr e ckl e s blotc h

“
,

e s an d pimpl e s as t h e h ig h sounding pr e fa c e
” -
, ,

a ssur e s us i s m ad e from t wo g allons of strong

,
11 6 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

country u nl e ss sh e h as t ak en to w riting v e ry
,

poor s e ri al a rticl e s a d le t t h e h e rb g ard e n an d

,
n

t h e b e e s r n o ut To sa v e troubl e t ak e t h e '

u .
,

re cip es a n d h a v e t h e m m a d e u p a t onc e by t h e
d ruggist wh o und st a nds suc h t h ings ;but it
,
er

is pl e as ant to d abbl e i n was h e s an d lotions

on e s s e lf lik e t h e Vic a r of l V ake f ie l d S young
’
,
’

l adi e s . T h e n h a v e you p ati e nc e to p e se v e re r

i n t h e ir u se ? F or m aking on e s s e lf b e autiful ’

is a work of tim e an d p e rs e v e ra nc e as muc h

as b e ing an a rtist or a stud e nt or a C h risti an
, ,
.

I w is h I we re wit h you a n d could k e e p you ,

u
p to your pr e p a ra tions brus h your e y e bro ws
, ,

t r im your e y e l as h e s an d do t h e doz e n di ff e re nt
,

O fli e s of symp a t h y an d wom anly kindn e ss

c I .

s h ould f e e l t h at I was t h e a rtist putting t h e

touc h e s on som e t h ing mor e v a lu abl e t h an an y
st atu e e v e r mould e d Can you fe e l so your .

s e lf ? F or if y o u c a n onc e ge t h old of t h at
a rtistic i mpuls e you h a v e t h e s e cr e t of all t h e se
,

t ile t int e rfe re nc e s

o .
 W I TC H C RAF T FROM T HE WOODS . 1 17

C H AP T ER XI .

A D Potion
ark il d T
.
— O liv e
f th F c e —O li v e
-
o an ar or e a

t f
ar I nh l t i n C b olic L o t i n f l impi
or — a a o ar Cu e o or
’
~

es .
-
r

f M q i t B i t s — P l e Bl ond — A F nch M q u i
or us u o e a es . re ar se .

f
D-
e p e ning C l
e by S u nligh t —S d u c t iv C m e t ic
o or s e e os s
j . .

No e m chin
s - —
a F inge T himbl ee . r s .

N EI T HER distill e d te rs p e rfum e d lik e May wa ,

nor e mbroc a tion smoot h e r t h an v e l v e t a re t h is ,

tim e to b e o ffe re d vo Th e compound i n its u .

u gli ne ss is mor e lik e a w itc h s potion a n d t h e

’
;
"

odor is g e n e r ally lik e d by t h os e only w h o a e r

us e d to it But its m e rits a e e qu al to its u g

. r

—
l i n e ss n ay SO firmly a m I p e rsu ad e d of its e f
,

f e c t i e n e ss t h a t b e fo re s undo wn I doubt n o t
v

i t s virtu e s will b e i n a ctiv e t e st wit h i n t h is

h ous e h old Se a w inds w ill roug h e n t h e fac e

.
,
-

an d misc e ll a n e ous food d e t e rior a t e t h e soft

e s t ski n s T h e re a e wrinkl e s t o o S h o wing

. r
, ,

t h e ir first faint d aring on t h e bro w b e for e

118 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

th e l a ss rinkl e s w h ic h h ad n o busi
w
g
n e ss t h e r e for t e n y e a rs to com e a t n y a
,

r a te . W h at h and s h all soot h e t h e ir tra c e

“ ”

a way ?

I t is a h unt e r s pr e scription t h a t com e s

’

i n u se Yo u will h e a r of i t along t h e S a r a
.

n ac or u i n t h e F an c o i r e gion w h e r e t h e
, p r n a
,

pin e s a n d spruc e s yi e ld f e s h r e sins for its r

m aking I t is popul a r t h e re for its e ffic acy

.

in k e e ping th e bl a ck fl i es an d m usqu i t o e s aw ay
-

e t e v e n h u n t e rs b e a r w itn e ss to i ts e xc e ll e nc e
y
i n l e a ving t h e Skin fa ir a n d innoc e nt T h us .

runs t h e formul a simpl e e noug h i n all con, ,

s ci e nc e e t h o w f e w w ill h a v e t h e b ol d n e S S to
y ,

t ry i t : M i x o n e spoonful of t h e b e st 25c i n a

pin t of pure ol i v e or almond O i l b h e ating th e ,

v

t wo tog e t h e r in a tin c p se t i boiling wa t e r u n .

S tir till compl e t e ly mix e d an d smoot h putting ,

i n mor e O i l i f t h e compound is too t h ick to

r u n e a si l R ub t h is o t h e f c e w h e n going
v . n a

to b e d a d l ay p atc h e s of s oft old clot h o n

,
n

t h e c h e e ks an d for e h e a d to k e e p t h e t ar from

rub b ing o ff Th e b e d lin e n must b e prote ct e d

.
1 20 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPER S
-
.

th e clos e of war m we a t h e r ? Th e c aus e is v e ry

pl a in W h e n cool d ays c h e ck t h e pe r spi r a
.

tion t h e syst e m must s e n d out m att e r by som e

,

ot h e r outl e t b e fore it c an a dj ust its e lf to th e

n e w st a t e of t h ings N ot h ing is b e tt e r for t h e
.

irrit abl e fa c e t h an b at h ing wit h a dilutio n of

c a rbolic a cid o n e t e aspoonful of t h e c o m
—

mon a cid to a pint of ros e wat e r Th e a cid -

.
,

a s usu ally sold i n solution is about o n e h alf

,

t h e str e ngt h of r e ally p ur e a cid w h ic h is v e ry

,

h ard to find Th e r e ci pe g i v e n abov e was

.

furnis h e d by a r e gul a r p h ysici a n an d was ,

u s e d on a b aby to soot h e e ruptions c a us e d by

,

h e a t wit h t h e h appi e st r e sults C are m ust b e

,
.

t ak e n not to l e t t h e was h ge t into t h e e ye s as ,

it c e rt ainly will sm art t h oug h it m ay not b e

,

strong e noug h to do f urt h e r h a rm NO more .

purifyi n g h e aling lotion is kno wn to m e dic al

,

Skill a n d its w ork is spe e dy P oor b aby was

,
.

not be a utiful wit h h is fa c e of u n a ccustom e d

spots a d blotc h e s w h e n t h e la i g w it h t h e
n , _
v n

fluid b e ga n a t nig h t but n e xt morning t h ey

,

We re h ardly v i sibl e I comm e nd t h is again to

.
 T RES B LONDES .
”
12 1

mot h e rs as a spe cific ag ainst t h os e irrita tions

w it h w h ic h c h ildr e n suffe r F or soot h ing m s . u

quito b i t e s alon e it is wort h all t h e c a mp h or ,

sod a was h e s an d h arts h orn t h at e v e r we re

,

tri e d .

T h e re is a word of comfort to d ay for t h os e

m ost h op e l e ss c as e s of r lo e l i e ss t o w color
u r v n
,
-

e d blond e s L ig h t h air of t h e faint e st s h ad e

,
,

wit h out a ting e of gold or a uburn is n o w f a ,

n

c i e d a bro a d C h ignons of p al e h air dr e ss e d

.
,

in abund ant f izz e s comm an d n e arly as h ig h

r
,

a pric e a s t h os e pur e b l o d es d or é s w h ic h n e

h a v e b e e n w ort h So m any tim e s t h e ir we ig h t

i n gold L adi e s of fas h ion i n F an ce d y e t h e ir
'

. r

h air or r at h e r bl e ac h it to t h is colorl e ss st at e
, ,

an d t h e e ffe ct is e ry piqu a nt w it h d a rk e y e s
v

an d compl e xion A t th e fete s in P a ris r e c e n t

.
f

ly a m a rc h ion e ss of d aring t ast e a ttr act e d ge n

e r a l a dmi a t i o n by h e r p al e tr e ss e s r e li e v e d by
r ,

profus e bl a ck v e lv e t tri m mings I nd e e d t h e .

,

only we ar for t r es b lo n d e ? is bl ack e v e n if i t ,

is only bl ack alp ac a wit h tra nsp ar e nt r u cl e s a t

,
r

t h e n e ck an d wrists Le t su c h n o t f e ar to e x
.
12 2 TH E UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

pos e t h e ms e l v e s to t h e fi e rc e st sun to gain a

s h ad e or t wo Of color i t h e fa c e I f th e fi n e
n .

gra in e d ski n w h ic h a ccomp ani e s suc h h air t ak e

o n a p al e e v e n bro w n so m uc h t h e b e tt e r for
, ,

a rtistic e ff e ct D a rk e y e s wi ll gi v e brilli ancy to

.

t h e dull e st f ac e ;a n d d a rk t h e y must b e if t h e ,

h arml e ss cr ayon c an m ak e t h e m so b yskillful

s h ading ab out t h e lig h t l as h e s I f e v e r a t is
. r

a boon it is w h e n c all e d i n to c h ang e t h e sick

‘

ly w h it e n e ss of too blond e bro ws a n d l as h e s .

We c an h ardly e xp e ct t h a t girls w ill c arry

t h e ir ze al for coloring so f ar as to fe e d for
mont h s on t h e m e al from sorg h u m s e e d w h ic h ,

h as t h e po we rful e ff e ct of d e e p e ning t h e tint

—
of t h e e ntir e fl e sh a p h e nom e non as tru e as
strange ;but we m ust h op e t h at t h e y wil l li v e
a n d work i n t h e r ays of t h a t gr e a t b e a u t ifi e r ,

t h e sun w h ic h brin gs out an d p e rfe cts all u n

,

d e v e lop e d ton e s i n N atur e s p ainting P al e

’
.

e ve s d a rk e n i n e x e rcis e out o f doors a n d p asty

- -
,

skins gro w prism atic lik e mot h e r o f p e arl i n

- -
,

t h at wond e rful way w h ic h fas cin at e d M onsi e ur

T ain e w h e n h e b e h e ld t h e m ir aculous bro ws
124 T HE U G LY GIRL P APERS
-
.

t h ou g h som e t h ing Of th e kin d was u s e d by

v e ry p articul a r b e a uti e s fifty y e ars ago Th e
.

only t h ing wom e n would not do to incr e as e

th e i r com e lin e ss i s to pu t t h e ms e lv e s on t h e
rack u n l e ss ind e e d it we re to l i v e h e alt h il y
,
.
 RES ULT S OF HIG H LI V IN G . 1 25

C H A P T ER X I I .

Re m o v a l of Su pe r fl u o u s Ham E ff e c t s
— igh Livin g of H .

W o k o f Typh id Fe v e R m n T w ee z s L o l a M n
r — o r . o a er . o

tez s
’
Re cip e s — P st e f Wo o d h s Bl e ch ing A m
a o — -
as e . a r s

—
w i t h C h l o ide C au t i n b o u t D epil t o i
r o s — Public
a a r es .

B t h s — I mp o ving C o mp l e xi o n s by t h e Su lph u V p o r
a r r a ~

b t h How A r bi n W m e n P e fu m e T h e m el v e s
a — . a a o r s .

P fu e H i Sig n o f N t u e s B o u n t y
ro s a r, a r
’
.

A C ORRESPONDEN T to kno w w h at Will

w is h e s
r e mo v e sup e rfluous h arr a dding t h a t sh e is an ,

noy e d w it h suc h a gro wt h of it on h e r fac e

t h at Sh e is t h e r e m ark of h e r fri e nds T h e s e .

u nfortun at e c as e s a e t h e r e sult of morbi d con

r

s t i t u t i o n fr e aks of n atur e w h ic h ar e t o b e co rn
,

b at e d as o n e would e radic ate l e prosy or sc r of

u la . Th e e xtr e m e gro wt h of h a ir w h e r e it
s h ould not b e com e s from gross li ving or is ,

in h e rit e d by young p e rs on s from t h os e w h os e

blood was m ad e of too ric h m at e ri als L iving .

for t wo or t h r e e g e n e r ations o n ov e rl ard e d

1 26 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

m e ts pl e nty of p astry s al t m e ats h a m an d

a , , , ,

fis h w it h good old pickl e s fro m brin e i n

,
-

s h ort w h at w ould b e c all e d h ig h living a mong

,

mi d dl e cl ass p e opl e is pr e t t sur e to l e a v e its

- — v

m arks o n lip a d bro w. S om e t im e s typ h oid

n

fe v e r st e ps in an d arr e sts t h e d e ge n ra tion by e

a p a inful an d s e a rc h ing proc e ss w h ic h as it , ,

we re burns out t h e il e p a rticl e s a d if t h e

,
v
,
n ,

p ati e nt s stre ngt h e nd ure l e a v e s h e r almost

’
,

Wit h a n e w body Th e r e d sc aly skin p e e ls

.
,

Off an d l e a v es a soft fre s h cuticl e , pink as a

, ,

c h i ld s ;t h e d ry h air com e s out a n d a fi n e

’
, ,

ofte n curling suit succ e e ds it w h il e mol e s a n d ,

fe minin e m ust ac h e s d is ap pe ar an d l e a v e n o .

Sign But t h is fortun at e e n d is n o t s e cure d

.

to ord e r an d t h e r e ar e pre fe r abl e ways of r e

,

n e wing t h e h abit of body .

F or imm e di a te r e mo v al of t h e affl icting s h ad ~

o ws w h ic h m a r a f e minin e fa c e t h e r e a r e m any

m e t h od s Th e R om ans us e d twe e ze rs r e gu
.
,

l a ly as we do n a il brus h e s to pull out s t a v

r -
,
r

h airs ;an d L ol a M ont e z sp e ks of s e e ing i a v c

ti m
j

s of a mo d e rn d ay Sitting f o r h o u rs b e for e
'

v
12 8 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS-
.

b e tte r to u se d aily a p aste of as h e s or c austi c

sod a l e ft o n as long as i t c an b e born e wa s h
, ,

ing with v in eg a r to t ak e out t h e alk ali a d ,

n

r ubbing o n s we e t O i l to soft e n t h e skin w h ic h

-
,

is l e ft v e ry h ard by t h e s e a pplic ations A p .

pli e d d ay aft e r d ay i t would n ot fail to kil l

,

t h e h a ir i n a mont h w h e n it w ould dry a n d

,

r u b o ff T h is may b e us e d o n t h e a rms w h ic h
.
,

mig h t b e w h it e n e d an d cl e are d of h air t oge th

e r by b at h ing t h e m i n a h ot so l utio n of c h lo

ri d e of lim e as strong as t h at us e d for b l e ac h i ng

cotton say t wo t abl e spoonfuls to a qu a rt of
,
-

wa t e r . B at h e t h e a rms d a ily in t h is as h ot as ,

c an b e born e for not ov e r t wo min ut es wast

, ,
r

ing aft e r ward i n vin e gar a d wat e r an d r u b

n
,

bing wit h almond or ol i v e O i l T h i s s h ould b e

.

don e i n a warm room b e fore an ope n w indo w ,

to a voi d bre at h ing t h e fum e s of t h e c h lorid e ,

w h ic h ar e b oth u n pl eas a nt an d oxious S trong n .

soft so ap l e ft to dry o n t h e a rms w uld in tim e

- o

e at a wa y an y h ai r . But th e troubl e is t h at
t h e s e strong ag e nts e at a way t h e skin almost
as soon a s t h e y do t h e h a ir a n d ni e c a e m ust
,
c r
 V IRT UES O F T HE V APO R B A T H -
. 129

be us e d to pr e v e nt d ange rous r e sults I f t h e .

blood s h ould b e in b ad ord e r t h oug h n o t sus ,

e c t e d by an n e l e ast of al l by t h e p e rso n
p y o ,

int e re st e d c austic of a y sort mig h t e at a h ol e

,
n

in t h e fl e s h t h at would fe ste r a n d b e a lo n g ,

ti m e h e aling I sa w a frig h tf u l sore t h at a

.

l a dy m ad e on h e n e ck trying to r e mov e a
r ,

mol e wi t h lun a r c a ustic an d s h ould ad v is e c ,

v

er o n e to b e c a r e ful h o w t h y r u n suc h p ain e

y
ful risks I t is not w se to e ndure p ai n h e ro
. r

i cally t h inkin g to h a v e t h e m atte r ov e r an d

,

don e wit h at onc e B e tte r try th e applic atio n s

.

m any tim e s l e a vi n g t h e m to do t h e ir work

,

gradu ally an d sur e ly .

T o l ay t h e found a tion of tru e b e a uty t h e ,

syste m s h ould b e purifi e d w it h in as we ll as

wit h out . N ot h ing is of so m uc h v alu e in t h is
r e sp e ct a s t h e a por b a t h
v I n all our l arge
-
.

citi e s public e st ablis h m e nts e i st f o t aking x r

t h e s e b a t h s an d t h e i virtu e s a e we ll app e
,
r r r

c i a t e d by t h os e w h o onc e try t h e m At t h e .

l a rge st b at h ing h o u s e s i n Ne w York l adi e s

-

a tt e nd r e gul arly f o t h e s o l e Ob j e ct of i m
"
r
1 30 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

proving t h e ir compl e xion P e r h aps t h e most .

succ e ssful for m a dmi nist e re d is t h e sulp h ur

v a por b at h w h ic h works wond e rs for n e ural
-
,

i I t purifi e s a n d s e a rc h e s t h e blood a n d I
’

g a.
,

h a v e s ee n a p ati e n t wh o h ad lost o n e of t h e
lov e li e st compl e xions in t h e world a s h e ,
s

t h oug h t fore v e r com e out of h e r b at h d ay

,

a ft e r d a v isibly w h it e n e d a t e a c h tri l F or
y a .

l adi e s p ast yout h not h ing r e store s s u c h soft

n e ss an d c h ild lik e fre s h n e ss to t h e c h e e k or
-

suc h suppl e n e ss to t h e fi gure O f cours e t h e se .

b at h s c an only b e t ake n at pl ac e s for t h e pur

pos e w h e re c h e mic al m e ans a e not wanti n g
,
r .

I only m e ntion t h e m to u rg e all l adi e s wh o

h a v e t h e c h anc e of trying t h e m not to f ail o f
doing s o bot h for pl e asur e a nd b e n e fi t
,
.

Th e apor b at h pur e a n d Simp le h as stood

v -
, ,

for som e tim e a mong h ous e h old r e m e di e s for

v a rious ills a d is giv e n by s e ating t h e u n
,
n

d e ss e d p a ti e nt o n a str a w or fl ag c h air ov e r a
r

sa uc e i w h ic h is a littl e lig h t e d alco h ol a d

r n
,
n

w r apping c h a ir p a ti e nt a n d all i n l a rg e bl a nk
, ,

et s . A ft e r a f e w min u t es t h e p e rs pira tion

 32 T HE UGLY GI RL PA PERS .

e noug h for th e v apo r b ath ;as for th e f u m i

~ c

gati e n som e cre atu e doubtl e ss wil l b e w ild

,
r

e noug h to try t h e e xp e rim e nt onc e w h i h will c

,

b e suffici e nt for a life tim e ff s / e d o sh e w ill

. z
,

b e v e ry gl a d to kno w t h a t a mmoni a b at h in g
will d e s t r v most tr ac es of h e r a d v e nturous
o

c apric e .

A profusion of h air h o we v e r is a sig n of , ,

n ature s lib e rality an d t h i s gro wt h is found in

’
,

conn e ction w it h a str e ngt h an d g e n e rosity of

constitutio n t h at is c ap abl e of t h e b e st t h ings
w h e n d uly r e fin e d S out h A m e ric ans w ith
.
,

t h e ir s u ppl e bodi e s ov e rflo wing w it h it ality v

,

h a v e spl e ndid tr e ss e s a n d so h a v e t h e S p an
,

i ar d s an d I t ali a ns S uc h p e o p l e a r e quick a n d
.

l asting i n t h e d anc e o wn d e e p tun e ful voic e s

, ,

mo e wit h v igor an d e as e an d h a v e a lux

z
,

u r i an c e of blood a n d spirits w h ic h is too ,

p re cious to r e str ai n or los e Fa sting d e ni al .

,

of pl e as an t food an d pl e nty of i t till o n e is ,

wor n to an a nc h orit e m ay d o for r e ligious,

p e n a n c e but do e s not r e ac h p h ysic al e nds so

,

we l l a s mod e r at e a n d s a tisfying i nd ulg e nc e .

 W HAT To EA T. 1 33

If y
an poor girl t h ink fro m r,
e ading t h is
p a

p e r t,
h at Sh e oug h t to st a rv e a n d w ast e h e rs e lf

by s we at ng b e c aus e Sh e h as a p air of mus

i

ta c h e s a n d a coa t of h a r on h e r a rm s Sh e is
i
,

v a stly m ist ak e n I f Sh e w a nt to kno wW h at

.

e a t l e t h e r study P rof e ssor Blot s

’
Sh e m a
y ,

cook e ry book W h at e v e r s t h e r e sh e m ay e a t
-
. I ,

a s it IS t h e r e assur e d t h a t al l t h e d e lig h tful

F r e nc h s e asoning w ill n ot do h e r blood h alf

t h e inj u ry of a s e ason s cours e of pi e s m ad e
’

a ft e r good Y a nk e e f a s h ion — t h e crust h alf

l ard a d h alf O ld b utt e r t h e filling strong

n
,

w it h spic e or d r e nc h e d wit h e ss e nc e as t h e ,

c as e m ay b e .
134 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

C HA P T ER XIII .

Mad am e C el nar t s W o k s o f t h e To i l e t — Li te at u re of
’
r . r

B e u t y C e s f t h e T o il e t A t s o f C o i ff e an d
a — . ar o .
-
r
’
ur

L cing Ho w t o H o ld Ne e dl e G ra c e full y I r i s P o w d er
a — .
— a .

fo T es e s
r r — A t o f I t ali an W o m e n — D e pil t o y u e d
s . r s . a r s

i n H ems ar Spi i t o f Py r é t re
.
- — H e b s u se d b y G e ek
r . r r

—
W o m e n Me xi ca n P o m d e — D u sky P e rf u m e d Mar bl e s a . .

Lo t P e r fu m e s Su l t n as Lo t i o n Br i ll i an t Pas t e fo r
-
s — — . a
’

Ne ck a d A r m s B king E n am e l
n — . a .

IF v e r a wom a n d e s e rv e d a s e at i n t h e
e

F r e nc h A c ad e my for t h e v alu e of h e r lit e r ary

l a b ors to h e r kind it was Mad am e Celn ar t , .

Th e works O f t h is liv el y a ut h or on m an
n e rs dre ss cosm e tics an d kin d re d topics no
, , ,

l e ss int e re sting to h e r se x a r e found i n e ig h t ,

sm all oct a vos i n t h e ir n ati e F m uc h Th e v .

l dy wa s an ind ustrio u s a d b illi a nt write r

a n r

on t h e m e s of t h e toil e t t h e h ous e h old an d , ,

d e portm e nt o n w h ic h M rs F a rra r a ut h or of
,
.
,

Ti e Yo u n g La d y s Fr i en d of our mot h e rs
’ ’
r ,
136 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

of b e au ty an d v ange l s of coqu e try

o th e r
'

,
e .

'

Sh e h as a w e ll br e d curl of d isd a in for

-
u ne

a l lu r e b o u r geo i s e m es u i n e
q
”
b ut w it h t h e re v
,

e r e nc e of a tru e F r e n c h wo m a n w h os e cr e e d is ,

h e r mirror sh e pronounc e s h e r w ork c o n saor é

,

e la t o i l et t e e t l a c o n ve r sa t i o n d e l a be a u t é
,
.
”

T h e s e d u ti e s Sh e divid e s wit h s e rious pre cision

i nto t h e “
co i n s d e l a t o i l e t t w h ic h i n clud e e,
”

cosm e tic arts an d l a r t al e s e co ifi e r la cer et

,
’

, ,

ch a u s se r.
”
I t w as ind e e d an a r t i n th e tim e ,

of h u ndre d bon e d cors e ts wit h out C l asps to

-
,

l ac e o n e S s e lf an d in t h e d ays of cl assic san

’
,

d als to pu t on on e s s h oe s Sh e is a s e x a ct i n
’
.

all h e r d e t a ils as a sc h ool mistr e ss t h oug h o n e -

,

f anci e s a cov e rt smil e o n h e r w is e fac e as sh e

r alli e s t h e yo u ng d e moise ll e s wh o dre ad e d t h e
b at h — b e c a us e it was so cold ? O h no ;but
b e c aus e t h e i r m od e sty could n o t e ndure t h e
b aring of t h e ir p e s on e v e n to t h e ms e l v e s
r .

S uc h sh e gr a v e ly ad vis e s m ay s a v e t h e ir p u
, ,
“

d eu r ”
by b a t h ing i n a p e ignoir O n e i n e vi .

t ably r e c alls Lol a Mo n t e s d e dic ation of h e r z

’

fa mous B ook of B ea u ty T o al l m en an d ,
“
 NEWBU RYPOR T G ENTLE WOMEN . 1 37

m e n wh o not afraid of t h e ms e lv e s on
ar e ,

count e ring t h e s e F r e nc h d e mois e ll e s wit h

.

ei r con v e ntu al susc e ptibility .

Th e gr ac e f u l pr e c e ptre ss go e s on w it h d i
"

e tions for sitting for h old i ng on e s n e e dl e

’
, ,

r d anc ng an d h olding on e s p e ttico a ts out

i
,
’

t h e m ud N obody will allo w t h at t h e s e

.

nts ar e sup e rfluous wh o notic e s t h e v a ri e d

vk war d n e ss w h ic h w om e n f all into wh o ar e

tb i t u al l
y t h oug h tl e ss o n t h e s e poin t s S om e .

t h e s e nic e customs m ay h a v e b e e n c arri e d

our s h or e s possibl y w it h R oc h amb ea u s
,
’

re nc h l adi e s at N e wport or S al e m I re .

e mb e r h e a ring o e of t h e fi n e N e wbury p ort

n

di e s wh o a ns we r to t h e d e scriptio n of gen
,

swo m e n still m a int a i n e arn e stly th a t it was

,

ost gr ac e ful to se w wit h a long point “ ”

a t i s to pus h t h e n e e dl e n e a rly i t s w h ol e
,

n t h t h roug h a t e a c h stitc h m st e ad of pul l

g ,

g it out so to
,
sp e ak by t h e nos e ,
A n d sh e .

as righ t as o u c an v e rify by t h e n e xt se w
y,

g yo n t ak e u p
. .

I n t h e t i m e of M ad am e Cel n ar t fi n e l ad ie s ,
188 T HE UG LY GIRL PAPERS .

u es d to po wd e r t h e ir h ai r wit h t h e d u st o f
F lo re nt i n e iris w h ic h g a v e t h e ir lov e br at h
,
-
e

ing tre ss e s t h e iol e t odor of sp ing A pl e as

v r .

an t i dea but t h eir iris orris root must

; o ,
ur ,

h a v e b e e n a t ifl e fre s h e r t h an com e s to t h is
r

c o nt
u rv . I t m k e s us sure t h a t t h e b e a uti e s
a

of Titi an s an d G uido s tim e s we r e r e al wo m

’ ’

e n to kno w t h a t t h e y st e e pe d t h e i r tr e ss e s i n
,

bl e ac h ing liquids an d dy e s an d spre a d t h e ir ,

locks i n t h e sun for h ou rs to g ain t h e cov e t e d

gold e n ting e ; an d t h e h ai r of t h e Be ll a
.

D onn a h e rs e lf mig h t h a v e c a ug h t p art of its

e n c h antm e n t fro m t h e sprinkl i ng of iol e t v

po wd e r t h at l e nt its wa v e s a soul T h os e i m .

mort al b e a uti e s would h a v e c anoniz e d L u b in

h ad h e b e e n a liv e wit h h is po m ad e s an d pe r

fum e s i n t h e ir tim e Ce l n a r t was a coura

.

ge ons a dvoc at e of cosm e tics or e ls e sh e was ,

w is e e no u g h to put t h e worst first for o n e of ,

h e e rli e st r e ci pe s is t h is d e pil a tory w h ic h is

r a ,

not at al l quot e d by w ay of re comm e nd a tion .

I t is t he O ri e nt al R usm a a d e p il atory s e d
,
u

i n h a r e ms ‘
14 0 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

for its conj ug atio n of Spic e s would d e lig h t an

O ri e ntal I t was m ad e of f a t butt e r h on e y
.
, , ,

a d a rom a tics
n — t h e more t h e b e tt e r ; but as

non e of our b e ll e s wis h to try t h e anointing

bodily I Spar e t h e m t h e list an d giv e inste ad
’

, ,

t h e Espr i t ole py r ét r e Th e pyr e t h rum o r

’

.
,

S p anis h p e llitory is an h e rb h ig h ly v alu e d by

,

cosm e tic a rtists an d app e a rs i n s e v e ral r e cip e s

,

of t h e F r e nc h
P o wd e r e d cinn amon o n e dr ac h m ;cori an ,

d e r nin e t e e n scrupl e s ;v anill a t h e s am e ;clov e

‘

, , ,

e ig h t e e n gr ains ;coc h in e al m a c e an d s affron , ,

t h e s a m e ;simpl e spi ri t of pyr e t h rum o n e l i ,

t r e (about s e v e n e ig h t h s of a qu a rt) Le t t h e s e .

ingr e di e nts d ig e st for fift e e n d ays an d ad d ,

or ange fl o we wat e r h alf an ounc e ;oil of an

-
r ,

i s e e ig h t e e n d r o ps ;c i t o n ditto ;oils of l a
,
~

r
,
v

e nd e r an d t h ym e e a c h n in e drops ;a mb e rgris
, ,

t h r e e gr ains M ix t h e a mb e rgris w it h t h e
.

py r é t r e a n d put t h e t wo liquids tog e t h e r

,
Fi l .

t e r aft e r t wo d ays Use a s a toil e t wa t e r

. .

N o wond e r F r e nc h cosm e tics a e so h ig h r

ly v alu e d w h e n t h e ir composition e mbr a c e s

,
 SAFFRON ~
A ND ROSES . 14 1

suc h a v ari e ty of pl eas ing i ngre di e nts T h ym e .

,

a nis e ,
a n d s aff ron s e e m h om e ly h e rb s for a
w om an s u se b t t h e y assist e d a t e v e ry toil e t
’
u
,

a mong t h e G r e e k wom e n of old a n d R h odora

wov e t h e croc u s (m e ado w s aff ron ) w it h t h e -

ros e an d fe nn e l among h e r j asmin e s wit h ou

, ,
t .

a t h oug h t suc h as t h e s e t h ings g i v e us of Sick

t e as an d h om e m ad dy e s W h y s h ould h e rbs
-
e .

of suc h e xc e ll e nt r e no wn los e t h e po e try t h a t

b e longs to t h e m ? M ingle d i n v a ri e ty wit h
a m b e rgris a n d or a ng e flo wers t h e y giv e bo d y ,

to a pe rfum e ric h e noug h to h a v e s atisfi e d

C l e op atr a .

I f t h is r e cip e is complic at e d w h a t will b e ,

s aid to t h e n e xt compound e d by S outh A m e r

,

ic a Wom e n an d fas h ion abl e i n P a ris not so

n
,

v e ry long a ft e r t h e tim e of Jos e p h in e wh o ,

m ay h a v e p a troniz e d or ind e e d introduc e d

, , ,

t h is souv e nir of cr e ol e coqu e t y Ma d a m e r .

Ce l n a t s ays of i t
r O nly th e Ta rt u ffe s of
,
“

c oqu e try could bl a m e t h e M e xic a n po m ad e

”
,

w h os e proportions indic a t e t h a t t h e for m ul a

ca m e stra i g h t fro m t h e p e rf m e r s h ands a n d
.

’
u ,
14 2 T HE UGLY GIRL P APERS .

is t h e re fore corre ct A ny on e wh o wis h e s t . a

try i t ca n r e du ce t h e m e asur e to suit h e rs e lf

E xtra ct of coco a Sixty fo u r ounc e s ;oil o f
,
-

no is e tte t h irty t wo oun c e s ;oil of h e n t h irty

,
-
,

t wo ounc e s ;oil of v a nill a t wo o unc e s ;w h it e ,

b als am of Pe ru o n e dra c h m ;b e n zoin flo we rs

,

h alf a dr ac h m ;c i e t d i t t o n e roli o n e dra c h m

v
, ,

e ss e nc e of ros e o n e dra c h m
,
oil of clov e fl o w
e rs o n e oun c e ;citron a n d b e rg a m ot w
,
a t e rs

e a c h h alf a pint S t e e p t h e v a nill a in t h e c o

.

c o a but t e r e ig h t d ays in a h ot pl a c e ;d i sso l v

t h e b als a m i n h alf a gl as s of alco h ol w it h t h ,

b e n zoin an d ci v e t an d ad d t h e spirit of clov e

,

M i x t h e e ss e n c e of ros e d n e rol i in t h e oil

an

of b e n an d noise tt e an d b e a t t h e w h ol e forci
,

bly tog e t h e r i n a l a rge m arbl e or c h in a bo wl .

C r e ol e wom e n spre ad t h is p ast e o n t h e i

smoot h skins w h ic h t h e oil of coco a soft e n
,

an d m oist e ns w h il e t h e d e lig h tful c h a ngin

, g

odor is absorb e d till t h e ir forms a e like li v

,
r

ing d skv but p e rfum e d m bl e s T h e se r e c

,
u ,
ar .

ip e s a e gi e o t so m uc h for i mitation o
r v n '
n ,

to co ntribut e to th e lore of p e rfum e rs t h is sid e

14 4 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPER S .

t wo grain s;sulp h ate of quin i n e t h re e g rains ;

,

c armin e fi ve grains P o wd e r an d m i x c are

,
.

fully ad ding four drops of t h e oils of rose an d

,

mint .

Th e follo wing cos m e tic c all e d t h e Ser ki s cl u

,

Ser a i l is s a id to b e a fa vorit e lotion us e d by

,

t h e S ult an as for w h o m it is import e d fr o m

,

—
A c h ai a t h oug h t h i s sounds mor e lik e o n e
of t h os e pl easant fictions w h ic h pe rf u m e rs d e
lig h t to in v e nt conc e rning t h e ir oils a d po n

m ad e s t h a n an y t h ing we ar e oblige d to b e
li e v e T h is m ay b e s a id i n fa vor of th e a ss e r
.

—
tion i t is suc h a m ixt u r e of st arc h an d oils
as n o o n e but an od alisqu e could e ndur e to

u se I t is m ad e of s we e t almond p a st e t e n
-
,

l i vr e s ;r ye an d pot ato st arc h e a c h six livr e s

,
'

oil of j asmin e e ig h t oun c e s ;t h e s am e of oil of

,

or ang e flo we rs an d of ros e s ;bl ack b als am of

P e ru si x ounc e s ;e ss e nc e of ros e an d of cin
,

n a mon e a c h sixty grains M ix t h e po wd e rs

,
.

a n d e ss e nc e s s e p a r at e ly i n e art h e n v e ss e ls t h e n
,

a d d t h e po wd e r to t h e liquid littl e by littl e ,

b ru is e we ll tog e t h e r a n d str a i n t h roug h m usli n

,
.
 B RILLI A N T ENAMEL 14 5

An l g ant pre p ara tio n for w h it e n i ng t h e

e e

fa c e an d n e ck i s m ad e of t e r e b i nth of Me cc a ,

t h re e grains ;oil of s we e t almonds four ounc es ,

sp e rm ac e ti t wo dra c h ms ;flour of z inc o n e

, ,

d c h m ;w h ite wax t wo drac h ms ;ros e wate r

ra
,
-
.

six d ra c h ms M i x i n a wate r b at h a n d m e lt
.
-
,

toge t h e r Th e h arml e ss m in e r al w h it e is fix e d
.

i n t h e pom ad e or w h at w e w ould c all cold

,

cre am an d is appli e d wi t h t h e gr e at e st e as e
,

a n d e ffe ct I t m u st b e to som e pre p ar ation

.

of t h is s u b tl e sort t h at t h e lustrous w h it e n e ss
o f c e r t ai n m uc h admir e d fas h ion abl e compl e x
-
« -

ions is d u e I t is a c h e ap e n am e l w it h out t h e
.
,

suppos e d n e c e ssity of ba ki n g w h ic h by th e , ,

way is s u c h a blu nd e r t h at I wond e r p e opl e

,

of s e ns e p e rsist i n sp e ak i ng of it as if i t cou l d
b e a f act .
14 6 T HE U G LY G IRL P A PE RS .

C HA P T ER X IV .

Th e L a s t o f t h e Ro s e in — W e ighing
nc e s t h e Bal a — T0
o a —
L v e n d t b e L v d Th e E nigm
o f
o L o v e It P w r
e — a o s o e

o v e t
r h e Lo t f M I n pi t i
o n i n t h en Lo. k - — Th s ra o e o s e

a —
L nd o f Sp in g Th e D u ch e o f D e v o n hi e W m e
r — ss s r . o n

a t d ft e T hi t y
an a — T ining f E m t i o n
r r .
— “f mingra o o ar

t h e V ic e o —C w f t t t h e O pe — B h e mi n A r e n i
. ro
’
s- ee a ra o a s c

W at e s lr—R e cip f m M d m e V t
e i — M ilk o f Ro e
ro a a es r s .
~
s s .

—Sw ee t il s — O p e d nc e P e c ip t i o n f Re t o ing
-
o . ra - a rs
’
r s r or s r

Su pp l e n es s .

FO R an
y w om an , m aid or m atron , p ast yout h ,

wh o h e ars t h e l e a v e s b e gin to drop , an d s e e s

th e ros e s curl i n t h e war m summ e r of h e life r

t h is c h apte r is writt e n I t is we ll t h a t wit h .

t h e d e c ay of bloo m a n d out wa rd c h a rm t h e e r

s h ould b e a l e ss e ning of fe e ling a ami abl ,

n e

indiffe re nc e to t h e h o m age t h at yout h o e t c x s

e ag e rly Th e wom an O f
.
— wh o d ar e s fi ll in
t h e ag e l — t h e wom an wh o finds t h e fa i t n

l in e s on h e r c h e e k an d t h e p allor cr e eping t o
14 8 T HE U G LY GIRL PAPERS -
.

wom an i n lov e is f ar mor e b e a utiful th an o n e

o u t of i t A nd t h is is tru e if t h e lov e l ast to
.

t h r e e score .

Le t w om e n if t h e y w ould r e m ain c h arming

, ,

by all m e ans k e e p t h e ir h old on lov e t h e ir ,

fa it h i n rom an c e Th e po we r of fe e ling gi v e s
.

vit ality an d int e re st to f ac e s long aft e r t h e ir

fi rst flus h h as p ass e d Sp e aking as m att e r of .

fact t h is is t h e c as e for e motio n h as a li v e li e r

, ,

p o w e r t h an t h e sun h as ov e r t h e blood an d ,

t h e mi ra cl e of lov e in m aking a pl a in girl

pre tty is e xpl ain e d by t h e stimul ating e ff e cts

of h appin e ss on t h e circul ation I f yo u would .

pre s e rv e inspir tion in your looks b e wa r e h o w

a ,

you r e p e ss e motion C u ltiv at e not t h e signs

r .
,

of i t but e motion its e lf for t h e t wo t h ings a e

, ,
r

v e ry distinct S u ffe y ou s e lf to b e to c h e d
. r r u

a d s wa ve d by nobl e m s i c a nd p a ssion
n To u .

d o i h S pl a c e your lf o f t e n und e r t h e b e st i
l ,
se n

fl e e w it h in e c h
u nc s Th e e m ay b e p a t h os
r a . r

e noug h in t h e e nd e ring of poor littl e girl s ’

r a

song t t h e pi ano to sti t e nd e rly c h ords o f

a r

fe e ling t h a t we re g ro wing dull for want of

 A N TI Q UE BELLES . 14 9

rose of morning t h e p e rf u m e of
i

u se . Th e ,

spring h a v e r apt m any a middl e age d wom an

,
-

a way to d i vin e r e gions of f a ncy from w h ic h ,

sh e c a m e b a ck w i t h t h e ir d e wy fr e s h n e ss an d
Sm e l l ling e ri g abo u t h e Y out h h s its d ay
n r . a

l ng r e v e ri e s w h il e its h ands a r e at w ork W

o . e

old e r on e s n e e d to r e s e rv e w it h j e alous c a e r

o ur h ours of solitud e i n w h ic h t h e Springs fill

,

u
p.

Th e fac e s of old b e a uti e s h a v e no c h ar m b e

yond t h a t of fe e ling L ook at t h e w om e n
.

wh o we r e r e put e d t h e b e ll e s O f our l a rg e
citi e s t we nty y e a rs ago T h e y m ay b e we l l
.

s e rv e d ; but i n most c as e s t h e y a e m e r e r

ks i n d iscolore d wa x Th e p e a rl y t e e t h.
,

sm all G r e ci a n fe a tur e s t h e soft fi n e h air , ,

r e gul ar e y e s a e l e ft but th e bro w h as

r
,

ru e d n e it h e r to we e p nor smil e t h e lips a e ,

r

rn ose d a n d mig h t b e m ut e for a l l t h e e x

p ,

e ss i o n t h a t r e pl a c e s t h e i r lost crimson O e . n

u ld a dore t h e wa ste d b e auty of t h e D uc h e ss

D e vons h ir e worn by t h e agit a tions of a
,

i lli an t an d rom an tic life for t h e s ak e of

,
”
15 0 T HE UGLY GIRL P A PERS .

t h e fi re kindn ss t h at lit e v e n its d e at h

an d e ‘

pillo w ;an d th e Jos e p h in e of Malm aison wit h ,

e y e s a l ways e loqu e nt of t e a rs w ins mor e d e vo

,

tion t h a n t h e e mpre ss at S aint C loud co n fe ss e d ,

t h e lov e li e st w om an of F r a nc e Le t no wo m.

an fall into th e n stake of pre s e rving h e r

n

b e auty by r e fr aining fro m e motion for al l Sh e ,

c a n k e e p by suc h costly p a ins w ill b e t h e c o fli n ~

lik e s h ap e lin e ss of flo we rs pre s e rv e d in s and .

L a ug h we e p r e j oic e or suffe r as life pro

, , ,

vid e s O nly fe e l som e t h ing n atural wort h y

.
, ,

an d vi vid e noug h not to l e a v e your fac e a

b l ank .

T h e r e is a tim e b e t we e n t we nty fi e a n d -
v

t h i r t fi e w h e n t h e struggl e of life m e a n or
v -
v ,

lofty as it m ay b e oppre ss e s wom e n sor e ly

,
.

Fr e t a d c a r e writ e cross i ng script o n t h e ir

n

fac e s w h ic h gro w y e llo w an d pinc h e d til l t h e y

d e sp ai r of com e lin e ss T h is is w h e n t h e y ar e
.

l e a rning to liv e Te n y e ars or so m ak e t h e

.

l e sso n e asy an d i t is o n e of th e t h an kf ule st

,

t h in gs in t h e world to se e suc h fa c e s going

b a ck to t h e blossom an d sunny s we e tn e ss of
152 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

ar e t wic e as i mpr e ssibl e t h e n a s t h e y a r e in

yout h if t h e y kno w h o w to ge t h old of th e
,

rig h t not e s T h e y l e a v e t h e ms e l v e s to fal l out

.

of tun e an d forge t to r e spond

,
.

Ye t a s a wom an do e s not lov e to c arry h e r

,

t h inn e d tr e ss e s a n d cro w s fe e t into t h e gl a r e

’
-

of t h e Op e ra or to t alk p o e try w h e n r h e u
,

m at i s m t wing e s h e m iddl e finge r t h e cr aft of

r
,

t h e toil e t com e s i most grat e fully Th e

n .

fr s h n e ss of t h e skin is prolonge d by a simpl e

e

s cre t t h e t e pid b a t h i n w h ic h bran is stirr e d

e , ,

follo we d by l o n g friction till t h e fl e s h f airly

,

s h in e s T h is k e e ps t h e blood at t h e surfac e
.
,

a n d h as its e ffe ct i n w a rding o ff w rin kl e s .

Bo h e mi an count e ss e s ov e r t h ir ty m ay go to
a rs e nic springs as t h e y w e r e w ont to do for
, ,

t h e b e n e fit of t h e ir compl e xions ;b u t t h e h om e

b at h room is mor e e ffic a cious t h a n e v e n t h e

-

minut e dos e s of quicksilv e r wit h w h ic h t h e

l a di e s of G e org e t h e F irst s court u s e d to
’
.

poiso n t h e ms e lv e s a primiti v e way of ge t

—

ting at t h e virtu e s of blu e pill -

.

Th e c e l br t e d M ad a m e V e st r i s Sl e pt w it h
e a
 ANOIN T ING W IT H PERFUMES . 1 53

he r f ac e cov e re d by a paste wh i c h g a v e fi r m
'

n e ss to a loos e ski n an d pr e v e nt e d wr inkl e s .

I t was a re cip e w h i c h t h e S p a nish l a di e s a e r

fond of n sm g w h ic h re q u r e s t h e w h ite s of
,
i

fo u r e ggs boil e d in ose w at e r to w h ic h is

r -
,

a dd e d h alf a n ounc e of a lum a n d as m uc h ,

O i l of s we e t almonds t h e w h ol e b e at e n to a
,

p aste .

A fa vorit e cosm e tic of th e tim e of C h arl e s

II was t h e milk of ros e s s a id to giv e a fa ir
.

an d yout h ful a pp e a r a nc e to f a d e d c h e e k s It .

w as m a d e by boiling gum b e nzoin i n t h e spir

-

its o f win e till i t form e d a ric h tincture fift e e n ,

drops of wh ic h in a gl ass of wa te r m a d e a f a r

grant milk i h w h ic h t h e fa c e an d arms we re

,

b a t h e d l e a ving t h e lotio n to dry on I t o h

,
.

lit e at e s wrinkl e s as f ar a s a y t h ing c a b e

r n n

s id e s e n a m e l .

To r e store suppl e n e ss to t h e j oints t h e ,

O ri ent al pr actic e m ay b e r e vi v e d of a nointing

t h e body w it h oil Th e b est s we e t oil or oil
.
-

of almonds i s s e d for t h is purpos e Slig h tly

u ,

e fum e d w it h tt a r of ros e s or oil of viol e ts

p r a .
1 54 T HE U G LY GIRL PAPERS .

Th e j oints of th e kn e e s s h o u ld e rs an d finge rs , ,

a r e to b e oil e d d aily a n d t h e ointm e nt w ll e

,

rubb e d into t h e skin til l it l e a v e s n o gloss , _

.

Th e m uscl e s of t h e b a ck f e e l a s e nsibl e r e li e f
fro m t h is tre atm e nt e sp e ci ally w h e n str ain e d
,

w it h work or w it h c a rrying c h ildr e n Th e .

a nointing s h ould follo w t h e b at h w h e n th e ,

t wo ar e t ak e n tog e t h e r I t is a pity t h is cus .

tom h as e v e r fall e n into disus e a mong our

p e opl e wh o n e e d i t quit e as muc h as t h e se n
,

suons O ri e nt als .

O p e ra d a nc e rs i n E urop e u se an ointm e nt
-

w h ic h is t h us gi v e n by L ol a M ont e z : Th e
f a t of d e e r or st ag e ig h t o u nc e s ; Oli v e oil
,
-
,

six ounc e s ; virgi n wa t h r e e oun c e s ;w h it e x,

br andy h alf a pint ; musk o n e grain ; ros e

, ,

w at e r four ounc e s
,
Th e f at oil a n d wax a e
.
, ,
r

m e lt e d tog e t h e r a n d t h e ros e wa t e r stirr e d into

,
~

t h e br andy a ft e r w h ic h all a r e b e at e n tog e t h e

,
r .

I t is us e d to giv e suppl e n e ss to t h e limbs i n

d an cing a d r e li e v e s t h e sti ff n e ss e nsuing on
,
n

viol e nt e x e cis e A mb e rgris would suit mod

r .
e

e n t a st e b e tt e r t h a n m usk i n pr e p a ring t h is
r .
156 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS . .

r oom re ady for t h e s l ig h t e st signs of th at most

,

t e rri b l e m al ady from w h ic h nobody di e s .

A lco h ol of t h irty t h r e d e gr e e s o n e ounc e

-
e
,
°

c amp h or four gr ins ;opiu m in po wd e r twe n

,
a
,

ty gr a ins ;O i l of clov e s e ig h ty drops ,

Th e e f .

fi c ac y of t h is lotio n w il l b e se e n a t a gl an c e ,

a n d no ot h e r a ut h ority for i t s u se is n e e d e d

t h a n t h a t of t h e l e arn e d an d e xc e ll e n t ph ysi v

c i an wh o g a v e it its n a m e .

Ve ry prope rly follo w t h e gray p astill e s for

p u rifying th e bre at h T h e y do so no t by dis
.
,

guising it but by r e a c h ing t h e root of t h e dif

,

fi c u l ty a rr e sting d e c ay i n t h e t e e t h a n d n e u
, ,

t r al i i n g acidity of t h e stom a c h
z Th e mixt .

u r e is v e ry Si mpl e : Ch lor at e of lim e s e v e n ,

drac h ms ;v anill a sugar t h r e e drac h ms ;gum ,

a r a bic fi ve dr a c h ms
,
— 40 b e m ix e d w it h wa r m

wat e r to a sti ff p as t e roll e d an d cut into l o z

, ,

e ng e s .

M a d a m e Ce l n ar t a rc h ly a d vis e s al l good
wi v e s to l e t t h e ir spous e s kno w t h a t t h e s e l o z
e ng e s e ntir e ly r e mov e t h e tr a c e s of tob acco i n

t h e b r e at h A S a good wife will h a rdly i nt e r

.
 EAU A NGELI Q UE .
”

fe r e w it h a fa vorit e h abit of h e r h usb and wh o

is fond of s m okin g t h e l e ast an y ge ntl e m an
, ,

c an do i s to r e nd e r h is pr e s e nc e a cc e p t abl e

a ft e r t h e indulg e nc e .

A not h e r p asti ll e pre fe rabl e o n som e ao

,

counts to th e abov e but o wing its v alu e to t h e

,

s am e principl e is m ad e fro m c h lor at e of so

,

d i u m t we nty four gra ins ; po wde re d sug a r

,
-
,

ounc e ; g u a d raga th t we nty gra ins ;

'

'

o e
n tn -
n
,

p e rfum e r s e ss e nti al Oi l t wo drac h ms Po w

’
,
.

d e r t h e c h lor at e i n a gl ass mort a r ;put t h e

po wd e r i n a cup a n d pour i n a littl e wa te r
,

l e t it s e ttl e a d pour off

,
n R e p e at t h e proc e ss .

t h re e tim e s w it h fr e s h wa t e r filt e ring w h a t is ,

pou r e d Off e a c h tim e a d mix t h e gum an d ,

n

sugar w it h it adding t h e p e rfum e l ast

,
.

A g argl e for t h e m o t h w h ic h combin e s n

all t h e v irtu e s of Eu u A n gel i gu e an d e v e ry ,

ot h e r was h of h e a v e nly n am e is m ad e of t h e ,

c h lorat e of lim e i n po wd e r t h r e e d ac lnn s ; ,

r

distill e d wat e r t wo ounc e s R e duc e th e c h lo

,
.

r at e w ith a gl ass p e stl e in a gl ass mort ar ad d ,

a t h ird of t h e w at e r stir an d p our off as d i , , ,

1 58 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPE RS .

r e c te d b e fore an 511 is add e d To t h is ad d

,
.

t wo ounc e s of a lco h ol i n w h ic h i s dissolv e d

,

four drops of t h e ol atil e oil of rose s an d fo u r

v

drops of p e rfum e r s e ss e n ti al oil H alf a t e a

’
.

spoonful of th e sol utio n in a w in e gl ass of w a -

t e is to b e us e d a t a tim e as a toot h was h a n d

r -

g argl e for t h e mout h a d gums

n .

l V i t h t h e b es t i nt e ntions as to p h ysic a l n e at
n e ss m any p e rsons a re un abl e to m ak e t h e i m
,

pre ssion of t h e ir comp any w h olly a re e abl e g .

T h e y m ay r e m e mb e r w it h ad v ant age t h at
rinsing t h e mout h w it h t h is fluid Si x tim e s a

d ay is not too m uc h p a ins i n ord e r to m ak e

t h e ms e l v e s acc e pt abl e to ot h e rs T h e re i s n o
.

sure r p assport to e st e e m t h an an innoce nt ,

t a intl e ss p e rson w h ic h wins upon o n e b e fore

,

mor al virtu e s h a v e tim e to m ak e t h e ir way .

I f you t h ink t h is trut h i s r e p e at e d too oft e n ,

study t h e impre ssion m ad e by t h e r e spe ct abl e

p e opl e you m e e t for t h e n e xt mont h Th e r e .

sult will s atisfy you t h a t t h os e wh o a re as n e at

a s w h it e c ats ar e as o n e to fift e e n of th e c ar e

l e ss e as ily s atisfi e d sort

,
.
16 0 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS .

ro se wa t e r h alf a d ac ln n of M e xic an coc h in e al

-
,
r

four ounc e s of solubl e cre am of t a rt ar fi e ,

v

dr ac h ms of liquid b als a m of P e ru fi v e d a c h ms ,
r

of dry b als a m of t h e s am e ;v a nill a o n e dra c h m ,

p ellitory root o n e an d a h alf ounc e s ;stor a x

, ,

o e an d a h alf ou n c e s ;g al a ng a o n e oun c e
n
'

root of g al an ga o n e an d a h alf ounc e s ;dri e d

,

or ange pe e l t wo dr ac h ms ;cinn amon e ss e nc e

, ,

of m int r oot of Bo h e mi a n an ge lic a an d dill

, ,

se e d e ac h o n e drac h m I nfus e e ig h t d ays an d

,
.
,

filt e r F or lotions ad d o e spoonful of t h is to

.
,
n

Si x of w a t e r I t is also us e f u l for fr e s h e ning

.

t h e mout h adding t we nty four drops of it to

,
-

fou r t e aspoon f uls of t e pid wa t e r F or dis .

e as e d gums doubl e t h e d os e a n d g a rgl e w it h

, ,

it s e v e ral tim es a d ay .

Th e P d t e A wér a s i ve of B azin t h e c e l e br at e d ,

pe rfum e r h as t h e distinction Of b e ing h ig h ly

,
‘

comm e nd e d by t h e F r e nc h R oy al A c ad e my
of M e dicin e I t is b ett e r for toil e t u se t h a n
.

so aps w h ic h cont ain so m uc h alk ali T ak e .

po wd e r of bitt almonds e ig h t Ounc e s ; oil

er ,

of th e s am e t we lv e ounc e s ; s a vo n r er t of
,
 D A NGER OF U SING POOR SOAPS . 16 1

th e p e rfum e rs e ig h t ounc e s ;spe rm ac e ti fou r

, ,

ounc e s ;so ap po wd e r four ounc e s ;cinn ab a r

, ,

t wo dr a c h ms ; e ss e nc e of ros e o ne dr a c h m ,
.

M e l t t h e so ap an d sp e rm a c e ti wi t h t h e oi l in
a wat e r b a t h
- a dd t h e po wd e r an d m i x t h e
, , ,

w h ol e in a m a rbl mort a r
e I t forms a kind
.

of p ast e w h ic h soft e ns a d w h ite n s t h e ski n

,
n

b e tt e r t h a n an y so a p kno wn .

M a k e toil e t wat e rs an d p ast e s of t h is kind i n

qu antity a s t h e y improv e w it h age I t costs
,
.

a bout o n e fourt h as muc h to pr e p a r e t h e m

a s to buy t h e s a m e qu a ntity a t t h e p e rfum e r s
’

a n d o n e h as t h e a dv a nt age of a fin e r a rticl e .

DO not u se c h e ap so ap for t h e toil e t Suc h .

i s almost al ways m ad e of r a c i d or h alf pu trid

n -

f at combin e d wit h strong alk ali e s w h ic h dry

, ,

an d cr a ck t h e Skin som e tim s c a us i ng d ang e r

,
e

ous sor e s by t h e poisonous m att e t h e y i h r

t r o d u e from vil e gr e as e
c Ne ver allo w suc h
.

so ap to touc h t h e fl e s h of a infant To do n .

so is littl e b e tt e r t h a n a bsolut e cru e lty W h it e .

so a ps a e t h e s afe st as t h e y a re only m ad e of
r
,

purifie d f at .
162 Ti m UGLY GIRL PAPER S
-
.

Th e fe e t S h ould b e was h e d e v e ry nigh t an d

morning as r e gul a rly as t h e h a nds I t p e . r

s e v e s t h e ir stre ngt h a n d e l asticity a d h e lps

r
,
n

to k e e p t h e ir s h ap e W h a t p e rso o f r e fin e
. n

m e n t an t ak e a y pl e sur e i looking a t h e
c n a n r

o wn f e e t pr e s e nting t h e common a pp e a r a nc e

of distortion by s h o e s t o t i gh t i n th w r o g
o e n

l a c e a n d t h e dry h a rd e n e d skin of p a rti l

p , ,
a

n e gl e ct ? O n e s foot is as prop e r an obj e ct

’

of prid e an d compl a c e ncy as a s h ap e ly h and .

But w h e r e i n a t h ous and would a sculptor fi n d

o n e t h a t w as a pl e asur e to cont e mpl a t e lik e ,

t h a t of t h e P rinc e ss Pa ulin e Bon ap arte w h os e ,

lov e ly foot wa s mod e l e d in m a rbl e for t h e d e

lig h t of al l t h e w orld wh o h av e s e e n i t ?
A S n ic e c a re s h oul d b e giv e n to fe e t as to
h ands b e ginning w it h a b at h of fi f t e e m i n
,
n
‘

ut e s in h ot so ap an d wa t e r fol lo we d by scrap
,

ing wit h a i vory kn ife a n d rubbing wit h a

n ,

b all of s and ston e w h ic h w ill b e found most

-
,

us e ful for a doz e toil e t purpos e s Th e ails

n . n

m ay b e l e ft to t a k e c a r e of t h e ms e l e s w it h v
,

const ant b at h ing an d we l l fi t t i n g s h o e s u n-

,
‘
16 4 T HE UG LY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

ar e quite c ap abl e of going t h rou g h w it h a

box of w h it e stockings i n a d ay a d looking
,
n

non e t h e cl e an e r for it a t t h e e n d O u boot

. r

m ak e rs a r e i n f a ult a bout t h e lining of s h o e s

w h ic h oug h t to b e c h ang e abl e w h e n soil e d .

S oil e d ind e e d W h e n a e common S h o e s e v e r

,
r

cl e an wit h in O ur m an ufacture rs a e t h e o p r

o s i t e of t h e F r e nc h w h os w orkm n w r
p ,
e e e a

fre s h lin e n a prons a n d was h t h e ir h a nds e v e ry

,

h ou r for fe ar of soiling t h e w h it e k i d linings

,

a t w h ic h t h e y se w . Th e tim e w ill com e w h e n

we will find it a s s h ocking to our id e as to w ea r
out a p ai r of boots w i t h out putting i n n e w lin
ing as we t h ink th e h abits of G e orge t h e F irst s ’

tim e w h e n m aids of h onor we nt w it h out w s h

,
a

ing t h e ir fac e s for a w e e k an d p e opl e w ore

,

out t h e i r lin e n wit h out t h e ai d of a l a undre ss .

C l e anlin e ss m e ans h e alt h i e v e ry c as e a d a

n
,
n

pl e a m ust b e o ff e re d for t h os e n e gl e ct e d m e m
b e rs t h at only find fa vor in our e y e s by m ak
,
~

ing t h e ms e lv e s as di m inutiv e as p ossibl e .

 A HOME AL TAR PIECE -
.

C HA P T ER XVI .

‘
Th e Le ves aFl ll f J oy N bili t y f t h e B o dy
ar e l o .
-
o o .

It Ps ibili t i e — B i
o ss d H e t D p nd e n t o i t
s . ra n an ar e e n .

P h y ic l C u l t u I mp t iv i Am e ic — O C n t mp t
s a re e ra e n r a ur o e

o f H e l th ; E i t b M gnific e n t t h n C l e n Di
a .
-
’

a s er — o e a a a s

t ill d W t e f
e E v y U e Sub t i t u t e f St ill s V p o
a —
r or — er s s or a r

an d Su lph B th — B n B th — O tm l f the
ur a s . ra a s a ea or

H nd s — F e qu e ncy f B t h s — R m e di e f r H e p t i c
a r o a e s o a

Sp t o s .

Ho w lusty d e lic at e t h e young l e a v e s

an d

g ro w o n t h e ir st e ms in t h e i r nook of suns h in e !

Wh at could b e lov e li e r in its way t h an th e

h r e e ge r ani um l e a v e s st a rting from t h e mould
n t h e w indo w box w h e re t h e su n strik e s across-

h e corn e r of t h e Sill ? T h e y a e so firmly

“

ao i s e d
y e t g l a nc i ng ;e a c h full of gr e e n j uic e
,

h at t h e su n turns to j e we l lig h t w it h spots of -

,

l a rk e r tint w h e r e t h e f e a t h e r e d e dge s o v e rli e

a subtl e pi e c e of color w roug h t by sun a n d

soil for no e e to se e b ut by c h anc e e t e cst atic

I

y ,
16 6 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

in its d e lig h t as i f m e ant for t h e c e ntre tre foil

,

of a n alt a r w indo w S o t h e sun do e s al l h is

.

work . S o l e a v e s gro w by myri ads i n t h e gar

d e n an d t h e for e st SO t h e forc e s of n atur e
.

bring fort h e v e ry t h ing p e rfe ct if l e ft fre e to

t h e ir impuls e s .

T h e r e is som e t h ing lik e t h e l e a v e s i n our

fra m e s t h at w ould gro w springy an d strong
,

soft colore d an d brilli an t uprig h t an d j oyous

-
, ,

if it we re su ffe re d to I t a pp e als for sun .

s h in e an d gay e ty for abund ant food a n d e as e

, ,

for c O pi o u S w at e ring te n d nc e an d fre e dom

,
a ,
.

G i v e i t t h e s e a n d t h e bo d y und e r pr e s e nt
.
,

conditions is as f a r b e yond its common d ull

,

n e ss an d we akn e ss as it is b e lo w t h e s a ints i n
lig h t ;f o r h e a v e nly bodi e s a n not b e v e ry dif c

f e r e n t from ours unl e ss t h e c e as e to b e bodi e s v .

Th e mort a l fr a m e is nobl e e noug h a s it is .

N o h arp e v e r v ibr at e s lik e i t w it h e motio n

a n d pl e a sur e ;no st a r s h in e s so f a ir or so w is e

as t h e f a c e of m a n G od m ad e i t a n d G od -

,
.

lov e s i t w h ic h i s t h e r e ason it w ins so clos e ly

,

u po n us an d is so d e a r
,
T h e r e is no wisdom.
16 8 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

tog e t h e r in t h e most v ari abl e of clim at e s .

T h e y int e rc h ange h abits as we ll t h oug h th e ,

only o n e p e culi a r to A m e ric ans as suc h is a

tol e rabl e cont e mpt for t h e conditions of h e alt h
— a cont e mpt i n h e rit e d t h roug h h alf a doz e n
ge n e rations Th e clim ate is not i n fa ult but
.
,

t h e p e opl e ar e I t is m uc h e asi e r i n t h is
.

country to b e m agni fi c e nt t h an to b e cl e an
.

. .

A t an y h ot e l t h e re is e noug h of us e l e ss u p
h o lste r y as a m a tt e of cours e but a b at h i s
,
r
,

an e xtr a Oft e n not to b e h a d o n an y t e rms

,
.

T h is is t h e c as e e v e n i n t h e m e tro p olis w h e re ,

at l e ast a b e tt e r id e a of civili za t i on oug h t to

pre v a il F or t h e r e st t h e r e is not m uc h to b e
.
,

sa id for t h e int e llig e nt cult u r e of an y f a mily

wh o h a v e c ar p e ts b e for e t h e ir b a t h roo m is -

fitt e d u p .

W h e n r e fin e m e n t h as r e ac h e d a st e p b eyond
fauc e ts an d wat e r pip e s e ac h h ous e wil l h a v e
-
,

its distilling app ar atus to provid e th e pur e st

wa t e r f o r drinking an d b a t h ing N obody w ill
.

an
y mor e t h ink of drinking u ndistill e d wa t e r

t h an t h e y do n o w of e ating b ro wn sugar w h e n
 DISTILL AT ION M ADE EASY . 169

te
y c an
g h
et itwe H e r M aj e sty t h e Q u e e n
.

EE ngl and u se s not h ing but distill e d wat e r

> r he r toil e t a n d t h e luxury an d softn e ss of
,

t c h a b at h ar e so gr e a t t h at no o n e u s e d to

S indu lge nc e will cons e nt t o fore go it A .

n al l still costs fi e doll ars an d would p ro

v
,

id e al l th e wa t e r t h a t is n e e d e d for f a mily
I t s h ould b e k e pt i n a ction al l t h e tim e ,

fill a clos e r e s e rvoir for b at h ing w h il e t h at

,

r cooking an d drinking S h ould b e fr e s h ly

still e d e ac h d ay A simpl e substit u t e for a
.

is a t e a k e ttl e wit h a clos e cov e r an d a

-
,

a p e rc h a or l e a d pip e f ast e n e d to t h e
-

t l e ading t h ro u g h a pa il of cold wat e r

,
‘

0 a a for h olding t h e dist i ll e d wa t e r T

j r h
. e

am from t h e boiling wa t e r go e s o ff t h roug h

tub e cond e ns e s u nd e r t h e cold wate r

, ,

d runs off pure into t h e r e c e i v e r t e e . r

us e s a re h e at e d by ste a m I a m told t h e y
, ,

b e a mply provid e d wit h distill e d w a t e r

a dding a pip e to o n e of t h e tubul a r h e a t

t h at w ill c arry ste am into a cool e r from ,

run day an d nig h t .

170 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS -
.

B sid s
e e distill d wat e r b at h s in a c o m
th e e -

l e t e h ous e h old t h e r e s h ould b e f a ciliti e s for

p ,

t h e v apor b a t h t a y tim e a T h is is i n al u a
n . v

b l e in colds r h e um a tism conge stions a d n e u

, , ,
n

r l ia
a T h e r e di e st substitut e is t h e rus h
a
g .

bottom e d c h air an d lig h t e d s a uc e r of alco h ol

d e scrib e d i n a form e r c h apt e r A sulp h ur .

b at h r e quir e s a s h allo w pan of co als wit h a

t i n wa t e r pa n abov e it an d a n e l e v a t e d s e a t
-
,

ov er t h e w h ol e S ulp h u r is t h ro wn on t h
. e

co als w h ic h m ingl e s w i t h t h e ste am a d e

, ,
n n

t e rs t h e syst e m by t h e pore s w h ic h a e op e n e d ,
r

by t h e v apor Th e p ati e nt br a zi e r an d c h air

.
, ,

m ust b e e n v e lop e d wit h a wa t e r proof cov e r -

ing in t h e clos e st m ann e r l e a ving only t h e ,

h e ad e xpos e d so t h a t n o sulp h urous v apor c an

,
‘

possibly b e br e at h e d as t h a t w ould b e suf,

f o at io
c at onc e
n I r e g u l a r b a t h ing e st ab
. n
.

l i sh m e n t s t h e p a ti e nt sits i n a w ood e n box ,

h ving a cov e r a d a wa t e r proof coll a r w h ic h

a n -

fits tig h t about t h e n e ck l e a ving t h e h e ad out ,

.

T h is box is f ille d w it h st e am by a pip e a d ,

n

t h e v a po r i mpr e g n at e d wit h sulp h ur from a

17 2 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS
-
.

not so m uc h by b at h ing oft e n as by st aying in

t h e w a t e r long at a tim e A h ot so a p suds
.
-

b a t h onc e a we e k is b e n e fici al to p e rsons wit h

moist an d oily skins Bay rum a d c amp h or
.
-
n

m ay b e u s e d to a dv a nt ag e b y suc h p e rsons
e a c h t i m e a ft e r w a s h ing t h e f a c e Th e h ot
suds b at h s h ould b e t ak e n t h ric e a we e k by
t h ose wh o wis h to r e mov e mot h p atc h e s .

O n e of t h e b e st ways to m ak e t h e h and s
s oft an d w h it e is t o w e a r a t nig h t l a rg e m it ~

t e ns of clot h fill e d wit h we t br an or o atm e al

an d ti e d clos e ly a t t h e w rist A l ady wh o
.

h ad t h e fin e st soft e st h a nds i n t h e county

,

confe ss e d t h at sh e h ad a gre a t d e al of h ous e

work to do b u t k e pt t h e m w h it e by w e a ring
,

bra n mitt e ns e e ry n i gh t
v .

P ast e s a n d poultic es for t h e fa c e o we most

of t h e ir e fli ca cy t o th e moistur e w h ic h dis ,

solv e s t h e O ld co ars e ski n an d t h e prot e ction

,

t h e v afford from t h e a i r w h ic h a llo ws t h e

,

n e w skin to f rm t e nd e r an d d e lic a t e
o O at .
~

m e al p ast e is e fli c ac i Ous as an y t h ing t h oug h ,

l e ss agre e abl e th an th e p aste s m ad e wit h w h it e

 REGIMEN FOR HEPA TI C SPOT S . 1 73

of lum ros e wat e r T e al u m a s

’

e a h
an d -
gg , ,
.

t i n ge s t h e fl e s h m aking i t fi rm w h il e t h e e gg
r , ,

k e e ps i t s u ffi ci e ntly soft an d t h e ros e wat e r ,

-

p e fu me s t h e mixture
r .

W h at a e c all e d i ndiscrimin at e ly m ot h
r
,

m ask morp h e w an d by p h ysici ans h e p atic

, , , ,

spots ar e t h e Sign of d e e p s e at e d dis e as e of

,
-

t h e liv e r T a ra x acum t h e e xtract o f d and e

.
,
-

l ion root is t h e st anding r e m e dy for t h is

,

a d t h e usu al pr e scription is a l a rg e pill fo u r

n

nig h ts i n a we e k som e ti m e s for mont h s To

, .

t h is m ay b e a dd e d t h e fr e e u se of tom ato e s ,

m ust ard s e e d a n d al l s e e dy fruits an d

-
,

e e t ab le s w it h lig h t broil e d m e a ts an d n o
g , ,

re ad but t h a t of co a rs e flour P astry pud .

,

ings of most sorts a d fri e d food of al l kinds ,

n

ust b e disp e ns e d w it h by p e rsons h a ving a

d e n ey to t h is dis e as e I t m ay t ak e Si x .

or e v e n m ont h s to m ak e an y isibl e ,
v

ssion on e it h e r t h e h e alt h or t h e mot h

e s but succ e ss w ill com e at l ast
,
O ne .

of a t e aspoonf u l of c h lorat e of sod a i n

gl ass of wa t e r t ak e n i n t h r e e dos e s , ,
1 74 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS
-
.

b e for e m eals will ai d th e r e cov e ry by n e utral

i zing morbi d m att e rs i n t h e stom ac h T h e re
.

i s n o sur e cosm e tic t h a t w ill r e a c h th e mot h

p atc h e s Su c h tre atm e nt as d e scrib e d suc h
.
,

e x e rcis e as is t e mptin in its e lf an d

g , g y
a so

c ie t
y
,
w ill r e stor e o n e to conditions of h e al t h

i
n w h ic h t h e e xtinctio n of t h e s e blotc h e s i s
c e rta in .
17 6 TH E UGLY GIRL PA PERS
-
.

th e s am e p age wit h t h e k indly e nt h usi ast of

t h e l e tt e r on corpul e ncy .

T h e re i s no e vid e nc e i n its p age s t h at t h e

writ e r e v e r t ri e d a ut h ors h ip b e for e He was .

ov e r sixty six y e ars Ol d w h e n i n a bu r st of

-
, ,

gra ti tud e for h is r e li e f fro m t h e burd e n of too

muc h fl e s h h e took u p h is pe n to t e ll h is f e l
,

l o w cr e a tur e s of h e lp for t h os e wh o s u ff e r a
-

lik e infliction Th e qu a intn e ss of h is p age s

.

r e m inds o n e of I z aak W alton from h is ope n ,

i n g s e n t e nc e s w h e r e h e d e cl a r e s
,
O f al l t h e ,

p arasite s t h a t affe ct h um anity I do n o t k n o w ,

of n o r c an I i m agin e a y mor e distre ssing

, ,
n

t h an t h at of Ob e sity — a n Opinion w it h w h ic h
”

al l h is f e llo w suffe r e rs w ill agr e e

-
He is fond .

of t e rming h is gri e v an c e a p arasit e a n d t h e ,

n a m e Slips out w it h a fr e qu e ncy w h ic h is lik e

t h e e c h o of obj urg a tions h url e d a t h is i n fi m r

ity B e ing c all e d to a ccount for it l at e r h e

.
,

m e e kly d e cl ar e s t h a t t h e word is us e d w h olly

in a figur ati v e se ns e H is st at e mig h t h a v e
.

j ustifi e d a stronge r e pit h e t NO p are nts on .

e i t h e r Sid e to se h is o w p h r as e e v e r s h o we d
,
u n
,
 THE B URDEN OF
‘

T HE FLE SH . 1 77

a te nd e ncy to co rpul e ncy but b et we e n t h irty ,

an d forty h e fo und t h e h abit gro wing upo n

h im Hi s ph ys C an ad rse d viol e nt e x e rcis e

. I I v
,

an d h e took to r o v i ng F inding h is fl e s h i n
v
.

cr e as e h e consult e d h ig h ort h odox a ut h ority

,
“

(n e v e r a n
y inf e rior a dv i s e r ) tri e d s e a a i r a n d ,

b at h ing took g llons of p h ysic a n d liquor po

,
a

t assae al ways by a d vic e rod e h ors e b a ck dr a nk

, , ,

t h e wa t e rs O f Le a m i ngton C h e lt e n h a m an d
‘

, ,

Ha rro wg a t e dose s e noug h we S h ould t h ink , ,

to h a v e d isguste d h m wit h life fore v e r i

li v ed o n Sixp e nc e a d ay a n d e a rn e d it a t , ,

le ast by h a rd l a bor an d us e d v a por b a t h s

‘

a n d s h a mpooing w it h out an y h e lp for h is i n

”
,

Th e ric h ge ntl e man foun d h is position th e ,

good t h ings of t h is life h is h ous e s h orse s an d , , ,

fri e nds sm a ll e nj oym e nt s ave as t h e y le ss e n e d

, ,

t h e incr e asi ng burd e n life h e ap e d upon h im .

He was ob e di e nt an d inte llige nt i n u sing e v e ry

m e ans of r e li e f sugge ste d but h is doctors we re ,

of v e ry sm all u s e to lu m A S h e p a t h e tic ally .

s ays W h en a cor pul e n t m a n e ats drinks an d

,
“
, ,
17 8 T HE UG LY
n
-
GIRL PAPERS .

sl e e ps wel l h as no p ai n an d no orga nic d i

, s

e as e t h e j udg m e nt of abl e m e n s e e ms p ar a
,

ly z e d H is sta t e was piti ab le an d t h e re a r e

.
”
,

too m any co m p an ions i n distre ss w h o a ns we r

to t h e s a m e pictur e He could n ot t i e h is .

s h o e an d ofte n h ad to go do w sta irs slo wly

,
n

b ack ward to s a v e t h e j a r of inc eas e d we ig h t

,
r

on h is ankl e s an d kn e e j oints Lo w living was -

.

pre scrib e d an d h e follo we d it so h e artily t h at

,

h e bro u g h t h is syste m into a l o w irrit abl e ,

st a t e an d brok e out i n boils an d l a rge a r

,
c

b u n cl e S for w h ic h h e h ad to b e tr e at e d a d
,
n

“
ton e d u p i n a way t h a t bro u g h t h i m into
”

h e a vi e r condition t h a n e v e r .

He sp e aks fe e lingly ye t w i t h simpl e dign ity , ,

of t h e tri als w h ic h sto t pe opl e e ndure b e ing u ,

cro wd e d in c ars an d st age s uncomforta bl e i n ,

wa rm t h e a tr e s an d l e cture roo ms be sid e s fi n d -

,

ing t h e m s e lv e s t h e butt of ridicul e or a t l e ast , , ,

t h e obj e ct of r e m ark Th e l a t c a us e d h i m
. s

for m any y e a rs to g i v e u p p ublic pl e a sur e s .

Many p e rsons as t h e y r e a d w ill h a v e c a us e to

, ,

r e p ro ac h t h e m s e l v e s for t h ose wh o are c on

,
180 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

h airs Th e faculty ar e to bl a m e for ov e rlook

.

ing suc h a f o e to h um an comfort .

M r Willi a m H a rv e y Surge on of th e R oy l
.
,
a

D isp e ns ary for D is e as e s of t h e Ea was t h e r

,

first p e rson wis e a n d consid e r a t e e no u g h to

pre scrib e a r e m e dy He r e ason e d fro m M
. .

B e rn ard s a cc e pte d t h e ory of t h e product of

’

glucos e as we ll as bil e fro m th e l i v e r G lu

“
.

cos e is alli e d to st a rc h an d s acc h arin e m at

te ran d is produc e d i n t h e li v e r by ing e stion
,

of sug a r an d st arc h Th e subst anc e is al ways

. .

p re s e nt in e xc e ss bot h i di ab e t e s an d ob e sity
n
,

an d it struck t h is e m in e n t surg e o n t h a t t h e

s a m e dry di e t w h ic h drains t h e e xc e ss of glu

cos e i n t h e form e r d is e as e mig h t b e of s e rvic e
i n t h e l a tt e r A bstin e nc e fro m food cont a in
.

ing st a rc h a n d suga r r e duc e s di ab e te s an d ac ,

c o d i n l y h e pr e scrib e d i t for h is p a ti e nt
r
g H e .

was to l e a v e off all br e ad m ilk butt e r b e e r , , , ,

suga r an d pot ato e s b e sid e s ot h e r root v e ge t a

, ,

bl e s a s t h e s e cont ai n t h e l arge st a mount of f t

,
a

m ate ri al .

Ye t t h e di e t allo we d was lib e r al Bre akfast .

 SPARE DIET . 1 81

was four or fi ve ounc es Of b e e f m u tton kid , ,

ne
y,
broil e d fis h a d a
y cold m e a t e x c e pt
,
n n

v e al a d pork ;a l a rge cup of t e a wit h out mil k

n

or sug ar a littl e biscuit —

cr ack e rs o r an
,

Ounc e of dry to ast .

D inn e r : fi e or Si x ounc e s of an y fis h e
v x

c e pt s almon h e rring an d e e l s w h ic h a e too

, , ,
r

f t ; an y e g e t a bl e s b ut pot a to e s b e e ts par
a v
, ,

snips c arrots or turnips gre e n v e g e t abl e s b e

, , ,

ing e sp e ci ally good ; an oun c e of dry to ast °

t h e fruit of a pudding ;an y poultry or g a m e ;

t wo or t h r e e gl ass e s of good cl ar e t s h e rry or , ,

M a d e ir a but no c h amp agn e port or b e e r

, , ,
.

Te a : t wo or t h r e e ounc e s of fruit a rusk or ,

t wo an d a cup of t e a w it h out milk or sug a r

,
.

S upp e r a t nin e : t h r e e or four ounc e s of m e at

,

or fis h an d a gl a ss of cl ar e t B e for e going to
,
.

b e d if d e sir e d
,
nig h tc ap of grog wit h out s g
,
a u

a r was allo we d or a gl a ss of cl a r e t or s h e rry

,
.

T h is was comfo t abl e comp a re d to h is for r

m e r di e t w h ic h was br e ad a n d milk for b e a k

,
r

fast o a pint of t e a wit h pl e nty of milk a n d

,
r ,

suga d butt e r e d to st ; d inn e r of m e a t

r
,
an a ,
1 82 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

b e e r bre ad of w h ic h h e a t e a gr e at d e al
, , ,

a n d p a stry of w h ic h h e was f e u d w it h fruit

, ,

t a r t an d br e ad an d m e a t for supp e r Ye t on .

t h e l ib e r a l di e t h is fl e s h we nt do wn a t t h e r a t e

of more t h an a pound a we e k for t h irty fi e -

v

we e ks .

He e xpl ains h is b e li e f t h at c e ta i n food i s r

as b a d for e ld erl y p e opl e a s b e ans a e for r

h ors e s an d t h e nc e fort h h e c alls t h e forbidd e n

,

food h uman b e an s He suffe rs h ims e lf to

“
.

m ak e a littl e m irt h ov e r t h e e n e my t h at h e ld
h im i n dur an c e so long We c an we ll b e li e v e .

h e would scrupulously a void t h os e b ea n s

“
,

suc h as milk b e e r sug ar an d pot ato e s a ft e r

, , , ,
”

h e h ad gro a n e d a scor e of y e a rs from t h at “

dre adful torm e nting p a rasit e on h e alt h a n d

comfort He s e nsibly writ e s h is Opinion t h a t
.

corp ul e nc e m u st n a tur ally pr e ss wit h undu e

v iol e nc e upo n t h e bodily isc e r a dri ving o e v
,
n

p art on a not h e r an d stopping t h e f e e a ctio

,
r n

of al l . H c alls M r H a rv e y s syst e m t h e
”
e .
’ “

tra m ro ad for Ob e sity a d s ays Th e gr e at

-
,
”
n ,
“

c h a rm a d comfort of t h is syst e m is t h at its

n
1 84 T HE UGLY GIR L PAP ERS
-
.

proc e e ds we r e giv e n to t h e poor ;but w it h t h e

s e nsitiv e n e ss of a m a not u s e d to app e ar in n

public h e s ays O n r e fl e ction I f e are d my

,
‘

,
“
,

motiv e s mig h t b e mis tak e n I gi ving t h e .

”
n

cre dit of t h is syst e m to D r H arv e y we ar e .

,

sur e of o b eying t h e wis h e s of th e a u t h or wh o ,

sp e aks of h is b e n e fa ctor w it h e xtr e m e grati ~

tud e a n d s ays He h as sinc e b e e n told it is a

, ,
“

r e m e dy as Old as t h e h ills but t h e applic ation is ,

of r ec e nt d ate He t h inks an y o n e wh o suf

.
”

fe rs fro m ob e sity m ay prud e ntly m ount g u ard “

ov e r t h e e n e my if h e is not a fool to h ims e lf

,
.

He was so f a r d e li v e re d from h is mal a dy as

to indu lge i n t h e forbidd e n a rticl e s of food
but s ays I h a v e to k e e p c a r e ful watc h so
,
“
,

t h at if I c h oos e to sp e nd a d ay or t wo wit h
D iv e s I must not forg e t to d e v ot e t h e n e xt to
,

L az arus .
”

N o m e dicin e was gi v e n w it h t h is di e t s a v e
a v l a til e a lk a l i dr a ug h t in t h e m orning dur
o

ing t h first mont h T h is was prob ably t h e

e .

brom id e of am m o n ia wh i c h is of gre at u se i n
,
'

r e ducing an ov e r a mount of fl es h -
.
 O NE O F THE UGLY GIRLS .

C H AP T E R XV III .

A I e t t er
. P l in W m n —Th e B e t Hu b d
.
—T r i al s of a a o a . s s an

i
n t e VVo l d
h — B d ck W h f t h e H i F C hil
r .
— ur o as or a r . or

d n H i O il f M ce
re
’
— s a r St im u l n t
.
— T Re t O a as a a o s O Ie

C l t o t e H i Spe oi l P w f l H i Re t
o or h — a r . r In - a o er u a r s ore r .

— Th e C h p t H i D e —C u e f
y ea Ceshilbl ain —
L o a r- . r or s . o se

Sh t h C u e o f C o n Py lign e o u A cid f C o n s
oe s e— a s r s . ro s or r .

T u p e n t in e d C b lic Acid f S ft C o n
-
r an ar o or o r s .

A MONGinquiri e s not s e ldom r e p e at e d is an

urg e nt d e m an d for a pr e scription to k e e p th e
h air f ro m coming out Th e follo wing l e tte r .

w ill b e a cc e pt abl e to m ny r e a d e rs a .

I w mph t ic lly e f t h u gly g l b e ing o f

as e a a on o e
‘
n
'

s,
’
a

v e y l ge fig u
r ar d inh e i t ing t hin h i ; t h e w i e I s u i t d
r e , an r a r o r s e

m elf w e
vs ll e n u gh B t h ! t h e g ni e s I h v e u ff d
o . u O a o a s e re

th rou gh my p e o n l d e fici nc i s N w w i t h h ppy h m

rs a e e . o ,
a a o e

O f my w d t h e b t h b an d in t h w o ld I
o n an es mil e us e r ,
c an s

a t th o ld di t e
e Y t it w s r o l sse l. d I e pi t y as n es s r a ,
an c an

t h e gly gi l s n ob dy b t e wh h b e e n t h e c ‘ ’
u r as o u on o as re an .

M y h i b eg n c o m i ng o t w h e n I w j u t i my t e e n
a r a u as s n s,

an d h as al w ay s b e e n t h e t i l o f my l i fe I h v e b ee n p r a . a u
186 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

an d d o w n t h e w h ol e s c l e o f r e st o t iv e s w i t h all m an n er a ra ,

o f e cip e
r ol u n t ee e d b y
s v ymp at hizing f i e nd L t f l l
r s r s . as a ,

a ft e t u ning f m t w m o n t h t y n e S t og w h e e
er r r ro a o s
’
s a ar ar a a, r

I h d u nd g n e
a v c o u se f t e t m e n t f u nd y phy
er o a se ere r o r a or s r s~

ic l ill my h i c m e o t f i gh t f ll t ill I w l m t w i t h
a s, a r a u r u v, as a os

o t u
yan d n t hing
,
an e m e d t ch
o e ck i t A e l t ivsee o l d o . r a ,
an

l dy t l d m e t
a ,
o e b u d ck t te
o I t ied i t d i t
us r o -
r oo a . r ,
an

w k e d l ik e ch m My h i r h s n e v e g w n i t d e
or a ar . a a r ro as o s

no w ,
d t h
i an as a s —
b ol u t e ly c s d c o ming o t o m e t hing ea e u s

th t h
a o t b ee n t h e c
as n e f fi ft ee n y e rs So m e t hing Ofas or a .

t hi m y b e d e
s a f g w t h i c nc e n e d t o a e c e ip t
u ,
as ar a s ro s o r ,
r

giv n m e by f i e nd m o n t h o o go It i f mily e
e a r a r s a . s a a t ~

ce i pt d ,
m e t hing f f mily e c e t Th e l di e o f t h e
an so o a a s r . a s

h u e wh
o s , e i t h v e m gnific e n t h i
o us ,
w hich t h ey t t ib
a a a r, a r

u t e t t hi o e c ip t It i
s r q u ee c ngl m e t e y o e e
e . s a r o o ra ,
as u s

O e p o u nd f y ll w d o ck o o t b il e d in fi e pin t o f w t e
n o e o -
r , o v s a r

t ill e d u c d t o e pin t ; t
r e in d d d n o u nc e f p u l v e
o n s ra ,
an a a O r

i d b
ze x h lf
or a u nc e o f c o e l t t h e e o u nc e o f w ee t
,
a an o a rs sa ,
r s s

o il ,
pin t o f Ne w E ngl nd m d t h e j u ic e o f t h re e l ge
a a ru ,
an ar

re d o ni n p fu
o m e d t
s, pl e u
ere —
( q u te o f ao u nc o f as r a ar r an e

oil f l v e nd e
o a d t g in f mb e g i w o u l d b e e ffi c a
r an en ra s o a r r s

ci n in v e c ming t h e p w e fu l c e n t Of t h e ing e di e n t )
o s o r o o r s r s .

“
My l i t t l gi l h m gnific e n t h i b t i t t u bl e s me
e r as a a r, u ro

b v c ming o t t h i w in t e A h e i s o n l y fi e ye
o u s ldr . s s v ar s o ,

I h v h i t t e d b u t p u t t ing y t hing o
a e es a a o I wi h y u an n . s o

w u ld
o m t im e y i f i t i b t t d c t
so e sa chi l d h i s es o o or a
’
s a r , or

l t n tu
e a ta ke it c u
re I h v e l e n d t h t t o h mp
s o r se . a ar e a s a oo

t h e h ea d w i t h c o l d w t e e v e y m o ning i e xc e l l e n t t hing
a r r r s an ,
1 88 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

Or t wo intos a uc e r ;dip a sm al l st ifi brus h

a ,

into it an d brus h t h e h air sm artly rubbing

, ,

t h e tin ctur e w e l l i nto t h e roots O n b ld . a

spots if h ai r will st art a t al l i t m ay b e stim

, ,

u l a t e d by friction w it h a pi e c e of fl a nn e l till

t h e ski n looks re d a n d rubbing t h e tinctur e

,

into th e sc al p T h is proc e ss m ust b e r e p e at e d

.

t h re e tim e s a d ay for we e ks W h e n t h e h air

.

b e gins to gro w apply t h e t incture onc e a d y

,
a

till t h e gro w t h is we ll e st ab l i sh e d b ath i g t h e , .

n

h e ad i n cold wat e r e v e ry morning a n d briskly ,

brus h ing i t to bring t h e blood to t h e surfac e .

W h e n t h e h air lo se s color i t m ay b e e ,
r

store d by b at h ing t h e h e a d in a we ak sol ution

o f a mmo ni a an e v e n t e aspoonful of c a rbon t e
,
a

Of a m moni a to a qu art of wat e r was h n t h e ,

h e ad wit h a cr as h mitt e n an d brus h ing t h e

,

h air t h oroug h ly wh il e we t B at h ing t h e h e ad

.

i a strong solution of rock s al t is s a id to r e

-
n

stor e gray h a ir i n som e c a s e s P our boiling .

w at e r on rock s alt i n t h e proportion of t w

-
o

h e aping t abl e spoonfuls to a q u a rt of wat e r

-
,

an d l e t it st and til l cold b e for e using .

 A C HE AP H AIR DYE -
. 1 89

Th e old sp e cific Of b e ar s gre as e for t h e h air ’

5 h ar d ly found n o w a d o e c an n e ve r b e ,
n n

u e of g e tting t h e r e a l a rticl e
r but a e qu al n

y po w e rful a pplic a tion is discov e r e d i n pur e

pe r m oil of
-
t h e v e ry fr e s h e st fin e st qu ality
, ,
.

T
h is forms t h e b asis of succ e ssful h air r e stor
ti ev s,an d w ill n ot f a il of e ff e ct if us e d a lon e .

t is h o we v e r procur e d i n prop e r fr e s h n e ss
, ,

u ly by sp e ci l import atio n fro m t h e nort h

a

as t of E uro e
p .

I n t h e list of h air dy e s o n e ag e nt h as l o n g
-
,

e e n ov e rlo k e d w h ic h is found i n t h e h um
'

e s t h ou e h old s It is too co m mon an d h um

s .

e ind e e d to e xcit e confid e nc e at first ;but

, ,

is s a id t h a t t h e wat e r i w h i ch p ot ato e s n

e b e e n boil e d w it h t h e skins on forms a

v

ed a d h ml ss d f t h h ir d
y ne
y e aro e a a n e
y e r

ws .Th e p a rings of pot ato e s b e for e cook

g m ay b e boil e d by t h e ms e lv e s a n d t h e wa ,
~

r str a in e d Off for u se To apply t t h e . I ,

o u l d e s s h ould b e
r cov e r e d wit h clot h s to
o t e c t t h e d e ss an d a fi n e comb dipp e d i n
r ,

wat e r dr a wn t h roug h t h e h air we tting it .

,
19 0 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS-
.

at c h strok e till t h e h e a d is t h oroug h ly

ea ,

so ak e d Le t t h e h air dry t h orough l y b e fo e

. r

putting it p I f t h e r e sult is not s a tisf ctory

u . a

t h e first ti m e r e pe a t t h e w e tting w it h a spong e

, ,

t aking c are n ot to discolor t h e ski n O f t h e

bro w an d n e ck E xposing t h e h ai r to t h e sun
.

out o f doors w ill d ark e n a d se t t h is d ye N O

- -
n .

h e sita tio n n e e d b e fe lt a bout trying t h is for ,

pot a to wat e r is a s afe a rticl e us e d i n t h e

-

h ous e h old p h arm acopoei a in a v ari e ty of ways .

I t r e li e v e s c h ilbl a ins if t h e fe e t a e so ak e d i n r

i t w h il e t h e wat e r is h ot an d is s aid to e as e ,

r h e um atic go u t .

I nquiri e s h a v e b e e n m ad e a ft e r a cur e for

corns I t is not al ways t h e c as e th at t h e y
.

com e fro m we a rin g tig h t s h o e s I h a v e s e e n .

trou b l e som e on e s prod u c e d by we aring a loo se

clot h s h o e t h a t r u bb e d t h e S d e S of t h e foot l .

I t is b e st a l ways to we a r a snugly fitting s h oe

of lig h t soft l e at h e r n ot so tig h t as to b e p a i n
, ,

ful n or loos e e noug h to allo w t h e foot to

,

spre ad Th e muscl e s a e grat e ful for a c e r

. r

ta in a mount of compre ssion w h ic h h el p s t h e m ,

I,
19 2 T H E UGLY GIR L P A PE RS .

C HAP T ER X IX .

A Ta l k b u t C mpl xi n
a o oL t i n C u se f
e o s — D e lic a t e o o s
— a o

R u gh F c s
o — S a P in t ing d Bl achin g C u t
e —
un a an e o r

L di e Re f u ing t W h t h e i F c e s
a s s — Ex p e im n t
o as r a r e s

w i t h O l iv e t
— — C n u mp i n
tar d
. C l ea F c o— R s o an r a es . ev .

W H H M y
. . . O liv e t
u r raP c el i W m n on - ar .
-
or a n o e .

ra —
D w ing Hu m s t t h e Su f c e Wh t i s t o b D o n e
or o r a a e

f or t h e W e k IV m e a O n

A S OU T HERN l ady s e nds t h e follo wing r e cip e

for glyc e rin e lotion w h ic h is r e fin e d a d pl e as ,
n

a n t as w e ll as u s e ful Th e p ain of sunburn e d .

an d fr e ckl e d skin so troubl e som e to m a ny of ,

our fair r e ad e rs c an b e r e l i e e d ,an d t h e s h in

,
v

ing morning fa c e of yout h r e store d by t h is ap ,

plic ation : T ak e o n e ou n c e of s we e t almonds ,

or of pist ac h io n uts h alf a pint of e ld e r or

-
,

ros e wa t e r an d o n e ounc e of pure glyc rin e

,
e

gr at e t h e n uts put t h e po wd e r i ,
littl e b ag n a

of lin e n an d squ e e z e it for s e v e r l min ut e s in

,
a

t h e r o se wa t e rr
t h e n ad d glyc e rine an d l ittl e a
 C LE A N -
FA C ES AND C LEAN EODIES . 19 3

p e rf u m e I t m ay b e us ed by w
. e tting t h e f a c e ,

w it h it t wo or t h r e e tim e s a d ay T h is i s a ;

grat e f l applic ati on for a p arc h e d roug h ski m

u
,

I t s h ould b e allo we d to dry t h oro ug h l y w h en ,

if it fe e l sticky or p asty i t m ay b e was h e d o ff,

'

w it h wa r m w a t e r .

T h e r e ason wh y S O m any y oung wom e n

h a v e ro u g h fa c e s i s t h e y wa s h t h e i r f ac e s e
,
i v

e ry d a
y but n e gl ect to cl e ans e t h e ir bodi e s .

Th e po re s ar e clogg e d by s e cre tio ns an d ,

morbid m att e rs i n t h e blood bre ak out i n t h e

only fr e e spot th e fa c e Th e l adi e s of K ing
,
.
(

G e org e s court w r e p e rfe ctly logic al w h e n

’
e

t h e y r e fuse d to was h t h e ir fa c e s l e St it s h oul d

spoil t h e ir compl e xions T h ey s e ld om was h e d
~

e it h e r bodi e s or lin e n a n d it w s d an g
,
e rous to a

g i v e t h e ir fe stering blood a outl e t by cl e a r n

ing a pl ac e for it .

F ull blood e d girls w h os e compl e xions g i v e

-

t h e m troub le S h ould not e at f t m e at s v e i n a a

t h e d e p t h of w int e r n o d i k m i lk: T h e y
r r n
°

m ay t ak e t h e s e i n a ft e r y e a rs if t h e y g o w t h i
-
,
r n

a n d w e ak from h a rd work or t h e n ursing of

194 T HE U GLY GIRL PA P ERS .

c h ildr e n Th e ir syst e ms c an turn t h e grapes

.

a n d p e a rs t h e y oug h t to fe e d on t h e fis h '

, ,

c h ick e n an d l e an m e at th e n utty o atm e al a d

,
‘

,
n

w h e a t c ak e s (not m us h e s) into fl e s h e noug h to,

roun d t h e ir e l bo ws an d stre ngt h e noug h to

,

m ak e t h e ir wal k l ik e t h e figur e of a d anc e .

T h e y s h ould try d a ily b t h ing or r at h e r scrub

a ,

bing wit h so ap an d h ot w a t e r follo we d by a ,

cold dip a proc e ss t aking a m att e r of t e n m i n

,

u te s a d a a t most if t h e y kno w t h e m e aning

y , ,

of disp a tc h V e ry lik e ly t h e y w ill n e e d a f e w

.

bottl e s of S ar a tog a wat e r or dos e s of s alts to

cl e ar t h e blood ad h e ring r e ligio u sly to a G ra
,
s

h a m di e t t h e w h il e or t h e ir l as t st at e a ft e r t h e
,

m e dicin e will b e wors e t h an t h e first A ft e r .

t aking t h e sulp h ur apor b at h s t h e y m ust go

v -

out of doo r s an d finis h bl e ac h i n g t h e ms e l v e s

,

in t h e sun By li ving i n it fi e h ours a d ay

.
v
,

t h e y m ay gain t h e lov e ly p aint e d m arbl e Of

t h e E nglis h girl s f a c e wh o r e aps a ll d ay in
’
,

t h e h a rv e st fi e ld .

C osm e tics som e tim e s pl ay tricks wit h f a ir

skins w h ic h a e quit e m yst e rious to t h e u n
r
196 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

puri fie r would h a v e h ad t h e s a m e e ffe ct O n e .

l ady k e pt on u si n g t h e lotion an d h e r fa c e ,

b e c a m e smoot h aft e r trying i t t h r e e or four

tim e s W h e n p e opl e p e rspire fre e ly suc h n

.
,
u

h appy e ffe cts a e s e ldom notice d A propos of r .

t h is com e a f e w li fte s fro m W H H M urray

, . . .
,

t h e a ut h or of t h e Ha n d b o o k of t i e A d i r o n -
r

d a cks A l a dy wh o was p u zzl e d by t h e e ff e ct

.

of t h e cosm e tic wr dte to h im a bo u t it kno wing ,

h e was fa mi li a r wit h i ts u se i n t h e m ount a ins ,

a n d r e c e i v e d t h is m e rry a ns we r

“
I h ve a h ea rt y l u gh o v er v u pe pl e xi t y A ll
h ad a a o r r .

I kn w i t h e mi x t u w c m m n il
o s, t re d we tas o o sa o rs
’
ar an s e

O il w i t h t h
,
co i t e f i up O p t y l di
ns s e nc v od s r . ur ar ,
a es an

g n t l e m e n b t h h v e u e d i t f eely f v e i n t h e w o od
e o ,
a s r or at s s,

an d t h l di e h v
e a l w y d cl e d t h t i t m d t h i ki n
s a e a a s e ar a a e e r s

as s o ft t inasCe t i i t i it n ev c u d y h i n
sa . r a n s, er a se an r as

t h i ca
e r se .

D e lic at e
fa ir skinn e d w om e n a e t h e v e ry
,
-
r

on e s o n w h o m t h is cosm e tic w il l h a v e t h e
e ffe ct of d a wing h umors t o th e surfa c e
r .

H e a v e ns ! h o w m any o f t h is sort t h e re a e i n r

t h e w orld — p al e S h ado wy a s porc e l a in fragil e

, ,

of bon e a n d t e n d e r of Skin a bout as us e ful as ,

 W E A K WOMEN . 97

wis h bon e s of a C h ristm as c h i cke fi ! Th dy h a v e

-
’

int e ns e souls ;it is a pity t h e y h a v e not e no u g h

body to h old t h e m I s t h e re not wi t e noug h
.

in t h e world to con j ur e fl e s h to t h e bon e s an d

stre n gt h to t h e m uscl e s of t h is gr eat army of
we ak wom e n ?
19 8 T H E UGLY GI RL PAPERS .

C H AP T ER XX .

Su l ph u r Bl ching O ld F c s — E xp e im e n t s in
Bat h s — ea a e r

B t hing C u t i
a . N e d f Pu blic B t h
a ons Th i . e o a s . e r

P o p P ic s — M t h d f G iving Su lph V p b t h
r er r e e o o ur a or- a s .

H t B t h f H t W t h e — Ru i n B t h t H m e
o a s or o ea r . ss a a s a o .

I mp v e m e n t Ne d e d i P u blic B t h — VVh t t h y
ro s e n a s . a e

S h u ld b eo— Wh t t h y A e —.Th Ru i n V p a b th e r e ss a a o r- a .

—A ft e S n t i n —B igh t n
r -
e d Ligh t n e
sa o of H
s .lth r e s s an ss ea .

—R v e nc e f t h t
e re i l —I fi e o f B t hing
or e
n s ca . n u nce a o

t he N ve d P eri n Ne c e i ty f Pu blic B t h
— s an as s o s ss o a s .

IT is not
littl e a m using to r e c e i v e re qu e sts
a

for a way to g i v e sulp h ur v a por b at h s to th e -

fa c e alon e S om eb ody wants a fair compl x

. e

ion a d f an ci e s it m ay b e ga in e d by bl e ac h ing
,
u .

t h e fa c e lik e a n old L e g h or n b onn e t i n a b ar

r el A sid e fro m th e c e rt ainty of b e m g c h ok e d

.

to d e at h by t h is m e t h od t h e re is n o way f ,
o

w h it e n ing an d r e fin ing t h e f c e by a pplic a a

ti ons to it alon e w h e n t h e conditions of h e alt h ,

a e not r e g a rd e d i n ot h e r t h ings
r C a rbolic .
200 THE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

b ors Sh e is incl in e d to t h ink t h at i f h e fac e

'

.
,
r

would only turn b o wn ag a in l l ov e r sh e

r a
,

wou l d for e go h e dr e ams of P ri a n bro w a n d

r a

c h e e ks lik e p ea c h e s .

A su l p h ur v apor b a t h is a m att e r of c a ution

-

w h e n g i v e n by t h e b e st o f h ands I t is n o t .

we ll to t ak e it i n t h e d a mp b e king p ,
“
r a -
u
”

w e a t h e r of M a rc h for t h e b t h op e ns t h e
,
a

pore s n d c atc h ing cold wit h s e v e r l gra ins

,
a a

O f sulp h ur i n on e s body is t h e n e xt t h ing to

’

s al iv a tion by m e rcury Th e cons e qu e nc e i s .

t h at o n e f e e ls h e a vy a d a c h ing t h e e y e s n ,

gro w we ak a nd t e e t h grumbl e w h il e l a t e n t
, ,

r h eum atic p a ins wak e up to s h a rp r e mind e r

of on e s i mprud e nc e t e t h e we at h e i s
’
. n r

wa rm an d s e ttl e d t h e s e b a t h s a e a l uxu y
’

,
r r

an d m e dicin e combin e d Th e v e most e f . ar

f e c t l purifi e s of t h e syst e m s e a rc h ing o u t

ua r
,

a d r e mo i g a l l w a st
n v n p articl e s to l e a v e t h e
e
,

skin as n e w a d f ir as a b aby s I h v e s e e n
n a
’
. a

old d d k e n e d compl e xions r e stor e d by

an ar
,

t h m in a way t h a t was littl e S h ort of m i

e

r ac l o u s
u T h e s e b at h s ar e also of b e n e fit in
.
 PUB LI C B AT Hs . 20 1

lgi a d e al e rf u ll wi t h scrofulous
'

n e u ra ,
an d po w y
aff e c t i o n s .

Th e tim e is n ot f a r dist an t w h e n e v ery to wn

t h at o wns a public h all will also h a v e its pu b
'

lic b at h s B efore t h at tim e com e s p h ysici ans

.
,

ought to mod e r ate t h e c h arge s f t h e se r e m or

e d i al ag e nts O uts id e o f our l arg e citi e s t h e

.
,

cost of t aking Sulp h ur v apor b at h s is $ 5 eac h -

an d t h e y a e giv e n only i n s e ri e s s pr e
r ,
a
'

s crib e d by t h e j udgm e nt
. or h umo r of t h e
p h ysici an W h e n w ill p e opl e l e ar n t h e l a ws
.

a nd h abits of t h e ir o wn bodi e s so t h a t t h e y ,

n e e d no t b e a t t h e m e rcy of e v e ry sp e ci ali st
wh o c h oo se s to m a k e mon e y o u t of t h e i r e m e r

g e n cie s ? F o t h e b e n e fi t of outsid e r s i t o u h t
r
g z

to b e s aid t h at t h e c h a rg e in t h e b e st e stablis h
.

m e nts of Ne w Y ork is not h ig h e r t h an $ 2 50

for t h e Singl e b a t h an d a g e a t r e d uction from
,
r

t h is is common .

Th e e ss e nti al difficulty of t h e sulp h ur v apor -

tre atm e n t is to k e e p from t h e fac e t h e po we rful

fum e s w h ic h ar e d ange rous to br e at h e F or
,
;

t h is obj e ct t h e b at h e r e nt e rs a wood e n b o x
,
,
20 2 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

wit h cov e r t h a t fits t h e n e ck Sh e t ak e s a

a .

s e a t i n t h e box u ndre ss e d an d t h e Cov e r is

,

a dj ust e d so t h at only t h e h e a d is l e ft o u t .

C lot h s or a r u bb e r coll a r a r e clos e ly draw n

a bout t h e n e ck to pr e v e nt t h e l e a st e sc a p e of

a s a n d a w e t spong e is l aid on t h e top of

g ,

t h e h e ad or w h a t is b e tt e r a v e ry we t to we l
, , ,

fold e d turb a n wis e r ound t h e b ack of i t an d ,

ov e r t h e t o p t h us cooling t h e b as e of t h e
,

br ain t h e s id e a rte ri e s a n d s e nsitiv e u pp e r

, ,

p art T h is compr e ss must b e fr e qu e ntly we t

.

w it h cold wat e r during t h e b a t h a pr e c a utio n

—

w h ic h r e m ov e s t h e d ang e r of a popl e ctic s e i z

u r e s by t h e i nt e ns e h e ating of th e b loo d .

S t e am c h a rge d w it h sulp h ur is t h e n l e t into

t h e box by pip e s a n d i n t h r e e min u t e s t h e
,

p e rspir atio n flo ws as if t h e l uckl e ss v icti m

we r e m e lting a way . I n t h e b e st e st ablis h
m e nts a n a tt e nd an t f ans t h e b at h e r al l t h e
tim e t h e st e am is l e t on to coo l t h e h e ad
, ,

i nto w h ic h t h e h e at e d blood rus h e s i n a way

t h at m ak e s t h e we t to we l smok e dir e ctly .

An d t h is is an a tt e nt i on t h e p ati e n t m u st
20 4 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPE RS
-
.

o ff by an i nst ant s plunge into cool wat e r of

’
,

sa
y s,
e v e n ty d e gr e e s I sa
y cool
. for it c e rt a in ,

ly w ill f e e l as if ic e d a ft e r a b a t h of n e a rly
a h undr e d an d fifty d e gr e es I n a commo n
.

b at h roo m by t h is m e ans o e m ay e xpe ri e nc e

-
, ,
n

m uc h of t h e r e al b e n e fit of a R ussi an apor v

b at h .

Th e b at h l asts fift e e n minut e s w h e n t h e ,

v apor is turn e d ff W h e n th e st e am i n t h e
o .

box h as h ad tim e to cond e ns e t h e cov e r is u ,

n

j oint e d a d th e b at h e r tre ate d to a scrubbing

,
n

w it h so a p an d wa rm wat e r, w h ic h gr adu al ly
cools a n d cl e ans e s t h e body T h e n cool e r wa
.

t e is pour e d ov e r t h e body a d a ft e r w ipi n g

r ,
n
, ,

o e is w r a pp e d i n a fr e s h s h e e t an d li e s do wn
n

to pl e as ant dre a ms .

I t is h ard t h at such a n e c e ss ary r e qu isit e

to t h e h ig h e s t vigor s h o u ld r ank as i t do e s , ,

a mong l u x uri e s O n e c a h ardly i m agin e a

. n n

a ddition to a fi n e h o u s e mor e d e sira bl e t h n a

a b at h ing h all suc h as R om a n p atrici a ns a d d

-
,

e d to t h e ir pa l a c e s w h e r e a y for m of v apo r
,
n

or h ot b at h was at comm and .

 IMPRO V EMEN T S IN PUB LI C B AT HS . 2 05
‘

M any improv e m e nts ar e n e e d e d i n o u r pu b -

li c b at h s T h e r e s h ould b e Sm all dre ssing

.

clos e ts as t h e r e a e a t s w i m ming b a t h s w h e r e
,
r -
,

o n e s clot h e s m ay b e k e p t fro m cont a ct wit h

’

b e ds on w h ic h a t h ous and p e opl e re st in t h e

cours e of a y e a r Th e r e po s mg h al l s h ould b e
.
-

we l l lig h t e d a n d p a v e d wit h til e s inst e ad of

, ,

b e ing spr e a d wit h bits of c arp e t to b e toss e d ”

a bout ;an d t h e r e s h ould b e a mpl e Sp a c e b e

twe e n t h e couc h e s E v e ry t h ing s h ould con

.
t

v e
y t h e i mpr e ssion of sp a c e a d r e pos e — of n

suns h in e for t h e s ak e of its r e i i ng po we r

,
v v
'

an d of r e fin e m e nt for t h e soot h ing it a l way s

,

brings th e n e rv e s .

U su ally t h e b at h h ous e is buil t i a court

-
n

y a r d w h e re h ig h w lls o e v e ry sid e s h ut o u t
,
a n

t h e sunlig h t Th e b as e m e n t dr e ssing roo m is

.
- -

fille d wit h n arro w co u c h e s cov e r e d wit h lig h t

rubb e r s h e e ts sugg e stive of not h ing mor e pl e a s
,

an t t h an c a st o ff clot h ing a n d r e st m e a sur e d

-
,

by t h e b a t h clock w h e n on e s pillo w m ust b e

,
’

g i v en u
p to a n e w com e r -
.

F ro m t h is h uddl e d roo m t h e b at h e r S te ps
'

-
2 06 T HE U G LY -
G IRL PAPERS .

i nto be yond summ e r h e at d ark an d d ip

on e ,
r

ping wit h moist u re wit h a pl u nge b at h i n ,

t h e c e ntre P assing t h ro u g h it o e finds

.
,
n

n e xt w h a t s e e ms like a wid e m arbl e sta irc as e

running th e l e ngt h of e a c h sid e a lmost t o
t h e l o w roof wit h g atings l e t i n t h e f a c e of
,
r

t h e st e ps Th e b at h e r a sc e nds o n e of t h e s e
.

stony couc h e s a n d l i e s do wn wit h h e a d on t h e

,

stony pillo w c arv e d e v e ry six fe e t or so for

t h e purpose Wra ppe d in a s h e e t alrea dy we t
.
,

wit h moistur e sinc e l e a ving t h e dr e ss ing room -

,

a l a rge s onge dipp e d i n cold wa t e r a t t h e

p
b ack of on e s h ea d a d a not h e r a t t h e mout h
’
,
n

an d nos e o n e f e e ls
,
s if t h e re we r e ae s i a
p p r r

tion e noug h alre ady for s nit a y purpos e s ; a r

but w h e n wit h a h iss a d a ro a r t h e ste am is

,
n ,

l e t on t h roug h t h e gr a tings o e finds t h e dif ,

n

fe r e nc e R olling v apor fills t he room so d e nse

.
,

t h a t e v e ry outlin e is s h ut out a s compl e t e ly as

I n t h ed a rk e st nig h t Th e h e a t ris e s to s u ffo c a
.

tion t h e n e w b at h e r t h inks a d rus h e s aga in

,
n

an d ag i n to t h e douc h e ag a inst t h e wall to

a

we t h e r th rob b i ng h e ad or i nto t h e n e xt roo m , ,

 208 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

Th e y e s clo s e to k e e p out t h e sordid sur

e ~

r oundings of t h e b at h ing roo m ; an d e v e ry

‘

id e a o r r at h e r s e nsa tion for t h e brain is too

,
—

p ssiv e to t h ink is bl iss T h is is t h e d o lce

a — .

a r n i en t e I t ali ans aspir e to — t h e sum of al l

f
d e light possibl e to s e ns ation P assion a n d .

ra ptur e h a v e no c h a rms t h at e qu l it I t is a .

t h e d e a t h an d e xtinction of al l p a in Q u it e
.

as b e a utiful is t h e r e turn to consciousn e ss ,

se ns e a ft e r se ns e r e g a in i ng doubl e brig h tn e ss

a s softly an d st e adily as t h e u nfolding of a

flo we r .

A ft e r a r e luct ant w aking an d going out into

t h e s u nlig h t ag a in o n e s e e ms to h a v e found a

n e w se lf Th e f e at h e r lik e lig h tn e ss an d e l a s
.
-

t i c i t y of e v e ry limb a moun t almost to d e liri um

t h e y ar e so di ff e r e nt from on e s usu al d ulln e ss

’
.

I t is fr e e do m t h a t fe e ls lik e flying I f t h is i s
.

simply h e alt h i n o u r common st at e w e must

,
'

b e f a rt h e r to wa rd e xt i nctio n t h a n we i m agin e .

In t h is st a t e of purity an d lig h t o n e l e a rns

to r e v e r e nc e on e s p h ysi c al s e lf A body t h at
’
.

a t its b e st is so glorious an d h appy o u g h t n o t

 MOR A L EFFE C T S OF T HE B A T H . 2 09

to be xpos e d t o t h e di st u rb anc e of app eti t e

e

a n d t h e cont a ct o f
g ro ss t h ings
‘

W e n e e d to
.

b e v e ry m uc h mor e r e fin e d in our living e a t ,

ing a n d br e at h ing IV e o u g h t to b e n ic e r
,
.

a bou t our clot h e s a d our food c h oosing t h e

n
,

b e st of m e ats an d fr u it f ar b e tt e r t h an we a e
,
r

n o w cont e nt wit h an d s h ould pl a c e our d we ll

,

ings out of th e r e ac h of t h e l e ast i mpure a i r In .

t h is alte re d a d st e a di e d fra m e e vi l dispositions

n

los e t h eir s way I rrit abl e t e mp e r is soot h e d

.

d e spond e ncy fl e e s as by m agic an d fl e rc e pa s ,

r

sions l ie asl e e p as a t t h e stroking of t h e ir

m an e s I f a y o n e s h ould r e ad t h is p age wh o
. n

b attl e s wit h u nn atural d e sire s w h ic h m ak e life

,

l e ss bl e ss e d a n d lof ty t h a n it wa s m e an t to b e
.

l et h e r h a v e r e cours e to t h is e fli c i e n t ally It .

w ill r e stor e o n e fro m t h e h orribl e d e pre ssio n

w h ic h cr a v e s alco h ol or opium it will r e s ,

c ue fro m t h e p e rilous e xcit e m e n t of ov e r

wroug h t n e rv e s o r too m u c h br a in w ork an d -
,

b a nis h t h os e morbid fe e lings w h ic h consciously

or unconsciously inclin e to i mpurity of i m
a gi n at i o n if n o t of lif e Th e p u rity of t h e
.
2 10 T HE U G LY GIRL PAPERS .

body an d t h e soul ar e too clos e ly int e r wov e n

for an y o n e to d a r e n e gl e ct t h e m .

In t h e old tim e s a int s us e d to subdu e t h e

,

body by pr ay e r an d fasting Th e mod e rn .

way is by pr ay e r an d b a t h ing .

I t is h a rd e nough to k e e p a p e ac e abl e
firm an d s we e t h abi t of soul w it h out l e tting
,

loose on it t h e h umors a d ins an iti e s of t h e

n

body T h e s e ar e in n o way so sure ly qu e ll e d

.

as by wa rm b at h s a d t h is is w h n t h e y oug h t
, y
to b e a mong t h e public buildings of e v e ry
v ill ag e an d m ad e as c h e ap as possibl e T h e re
,
.

t h e dru nk a rd mig h t fin d a stim ulus w h ic h

h as no r e a ction t h e e motion ally ins an e a s e d a

,

ti v e t h a t would cl e a r h is br a in a n d st e ady h is
n e rv e s T h e re t h e e x h aust e d watc h e r by t h e
.

sick mig h t r e cruit an d t h e ov e r w roug h t stu

,

d e nt l awy e r O p h ysici an find support w it h out

, ,
r

r e course to p e rilous stimul ants Th e doo s of . r

suc h a pl ac e in a l a rge city s h ould st and Op e n

n ig h t an d d ay lik e t h os e of c h urc h e s
,
.

Wom e n n e e d t h e b a t h for al l t h e s e purpose s

e ve n more t h a n m e n Th e fe e bl e m ot h e r
.
 THE UGLY GIRL PA PERS
-
.

C HA P T ER XX I .

D vic
e es Of P t e d C o u r t p l ast e r
U n eas y A ge .
—B r ea d as an -

t o C o nc e l W i nkl e s — A cc p t ing t h
a r Si t u t i n — P l i e e a o a n

W o m e n d Ag e bl e T il t —E x mpl —T h Re c
an re a o e s . a es . e

D u gh t e
’
D e ing Tw H u nd e d Y
’

to r s a r .
-
r ss on o r a e ar .

Ec u Lin e n d Whi t e N soo k — A S n t o Wi fe f

r an an . e a r s
'

A W hing t o n Su cc e s — D u l l T hin F c —H y c o l e d
as s ,
a es a - or

H ir —a A dv an t age s O f Lining R o m s w i t h M i
. o r r o rs .

DID you e v e r go to s e e a l ady n ot of n u ,

c e rt ain but of un e asy age a n d find you s e lf ,

r

u s h e r e d into t h e fa mily Sitting room by a n e w -

s e rv ant wh o did n o t kno w t h e ways of t h e

,

h ous e ? D id you find h e w it h a cou t pl aste r r r -

loz e nge an inc h wid e b e t we e n h e e y e s a n d r

,

o e a t t h e out e r e n ds of h e e y bro ws ? A t
n
e r

Sig h t of t h is r e m a k a bl e orn am e nt did con r ,

c e n e xp e ss its e lf l e st sh e h ad fall e n do wn
r r

st a i s h d a diff e e nc e w it h t h e at ? W e r e
r or a r c

t h e s e insinu tions p a i e d w it h e t e ra n r e
a rr v

sourc e s a d w e you dissu ad e d fro m f u rt h e r

,
n er
 AV ER TING W RINKLES . 2 18

in q i ry by t h e d e lic ate r e m ark t h at sh e could

u

i n te re s t you b e tt e r t h an by g vm g t h e h isto y
i r

of h e scratc h e s ? O f cours e y o u kn e w t h e r e
r

w s a myst e ry a bout t h os e bits of court pl ast e r

a -
,

d pe h ap f e e l so to t h is d ay unl e ss N ature
'

an r s
,

h v e g i v e n you t h e mind of a d e t e cti v e I f

a .

so your p ati e nc e is to b e r e ward e d Th e

,
.

s e cr e t of t h os e p atc h e s was not scr atc h e s b u t ,

w ri n kl e s .

I trust d e tri b ut e will b e p aid to t h e ing e

u

un ity of failing ge w h ic h h as p e rfe ct e d t h is

a ,

d e vic e for war d ing o ff its un we lc o m e tok e ns .

Th e r a tion al e of t h e pl a n is v e ry S m pl e Th e i .

pl ast e r contr acts t h e skin a d pre v e nts its ,

n

sinking into cr e as e s an d lin e s I t also pro .

t e c t s a d soft e ns t h e skin
n I h a v e h e ard of
.

o n e oldis h l a dy w h o we a rs t h e s e orn a m e nt al

a pe n d a e s a ll t h e tim e i n t h e h ous e w h e n not

p g
r e c e iving compa ny a n d cov e rs p arts of h e r
,

fac e wit h a doug h m ad e of we ll m umbl e d -

bre ad to k e e p h e r compl e xion f air Th e h e ro .

i sm of t h is r e sist anc e to tim e m ust b e a p

p l au de d but,
i t is a n Op e n qu e stion w h e t h e r
2 14 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

th e pl ay is wort h t h e c andl e Th e b e auty of

.

a e l ie s n o t i n fr e s h n ss lik e t h a t of sixt e e n
g e
,

but in cl e ar an d lofty e xpr e ssion in t h e l ook of ,

e xp e ri e nc e a n d not unkindly s h r e wdn e ss i n t h e

,

fi nis h of s e lf r e pre ssion of c almn e ss trust an d

-
, , ,

symp a t h y T h e s e t h ings gro w on a f ac e as it

.

los e s fre s h n e ss an d roundn e ss j ust as t h e sky

,

b gins to s h o w t h ro u g h t h inning boug h s

e .

Th e gr e at e st of bl e ssings for som e p e opl e

w ould b e to l e ar n to a cc e pt t h e ms e lv e s a n d
t h e ir gifts I f t h e y could st and a p art fro m
.

t h e ms e l v e s a w h il e to se e t h e ir b e coming
points m uc h of t h e ir r e pining would b e drop
,

p e d . E v e ry t h ing an d e v e ry body is b e a utiful

in its s e ason T h e re is a w h ol e som e pl a inn e ss

.

t h a t a ccords wit h dom e stic life an d n atural

s u rroundings as t h e b ark of tr e e s r e li e v e s t h e ir
,

g re e n Th e color of h ealt h t h e g e ntl e n e ss

.
,

a d s we e tn e ss t h a t com e of a conqu e r e d s e lf
n
,

a e e l e m e nts of b e a uty t h a t m a k e a n f ace

r
y
tol e r abl e Ho w d e a r a re t h e pl a i n fa c e s t h at
.

h a v e watc h e d our c h i ld h ood wit h w h o m we

,

h a v e gro wn up so clos e ly t h at f e at u r e a n d
9 16 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

e xc e pt f o r th e j ollity lurk ing in it w h ic h sh e ,

i n h e rits fro m h e r fat h e r I n w int e r an d f l l

; a ,

w h e n sh e looks p al e s h e ton e s u p w it h a
,
“ ”

m orning dr e ss of all wool stu ff o n e of t h os e

-
,

bro wn grounds w ith sm all b unc h e s of bri l

li ant crimso n or purpl e fl o we rs a c h e e ry pat
—

t e rn t h a t t h e r e ctor lik e s b e h ind t h e co ffe e »

u n r of a cold m o n i n g w it h cris p w h it e
r w

ruffl e s se t Off by t h e bro wn dre ss C rimson

,
.

o r purpl e i n soft brilli an t S h ad e s a re he r

, ,

C l O l S for n e ck ti e s
U
'

He r stre e t dre ss is a
-
.

d rk walnut bro w n clot h trimm e d wit h c r OS

a -
,
s

cut v e lv e t t h e s a m e s h ad e Th e o v e r Skirts of.

-

C orn e li a s dre ss e s ar e a l ways long so t h t sh e

’
,
a

will not look lik e a fi sh i n g bob or a doll pin -

cus h ion ; an d t h e re is d e e p ros e color about -

h e r bonn e t —
N ot ros e s b y t h e way Sh e h as - -
,
.

a n unspok e n fe e ling t h a t it is not for e v e ry

body to we a r rose s but v e lv e ty m allo ws a n d
—

doubl e stocks imit ations of fr agra n t common

,

gard e n flo we rs t h a t a r e e ry l i k e h e rs e lf Th e
v .

b ro wn a n d c r imson m aid e n is a pl e as ant sig h t

o r a wint e s d ay ,w h e n t h e gr ay of t h e c h urc h
’
r
 T OILETS FOR T HE SE A SONS . 2 17

an d w h it e ofsno w n e e d som e t h ing war m

th e

to com e b e t we e n t h e m I n Summ e r sh e c h oos e s .

,

or h e r cousin in Ne w York c h oos e s for h e not r ..

t h e lig h t p e r cal e s t h a t e v e ry o n e e ls e is we a r

ing nor t h e grays an d ston e colors t h at walk to

,
-

c h urc h e v e ry S und ay b ut é cr lin e ns wit h r e ,

u
,
s

li e f of bl a ck or bro wn for morning w h e n sh e ,

go e s from pa ntry to g ard en a d fro m s e wing ,

n

m ac h in e to n urs e ry A ft e rnoons sh e d o e s n t
.
’

divid e h e rs e lf b y putting o n a w h ite blous e

a n d color e d Skirt o a buff r e dingot e ov e r a
r
,

bl ack tra i n but we a rs a dre ss of o n e color

,

, ,

t h a t looks as i f i t we r e m e ant to s t ay at h om e .

W h ite n ai iso o k is h e d e lig h t its s e mi tr au r ,

-
.

p a enc
r
y w ond e rfully suiting h e cl e a r b o wn r . r

n e ss b t solid w h it e lin e n o c a mbric sh e e s

,
u r

c h e ws S oft iol e t j a con e t a d t h e w h ol e

. v
,
n

family of lil a cs a e m ad e for h e ;an d sh e is

,
r r

luxurious i n r ffl e s an d fl o n c e s o n h e d e mi
u u r

tr a in e d Skirts Sinc e sh e m ak e s a d Ofte n i o n s

,
n r

t h e m h e rs e lf Bl ack gre n adin e Of cours e sh e

.
, ,

we a rs w it h h ig h lining to giv e h e r waist its

,

ful l l e ngt h e v e ry bit of w h ic h i t n e e ds ;a d

,
. n
218 THE UGLY GIRL PAPERS -
.

Sh e is n ot too utilit a ri an to n e gl e ct t h e a i d
w h ic h a mod e st d e mi tr ai n o a h ous e dr e ss -
n

giv e s to h e r h e ig h t A ll t h e ot h e r girls m ay
.

we a r pu ff e d wa ists an d pl e at e d wa ists Sh e .

kno ws t h e a re not for h e r plump s h ould e rs

v
,

t h oug h clust e rs of fi n e tucks on a blous e g i v e

l e n gt h to t h e waist an d l e ss e n t h e widt h of,

t h e b ack S h awls sh e n e v e r w e a rs nor s h o t

.
,
r

p e rky b asqu e s t h at a e consid e re d I d o n t

,
r
’

—
kno w w y t h e prop e r t h i ng for stout fi g
h
ur e s He r c h oic e is t h e long polon ais e an d
.
,

t h e F r e nc h j a ck e t w h ic h by its S h ort S h ould e rs

,

an d simpl e lin e s con v e ys a d e c e n t com e lin e ss

of figur e to an y o n e wh o we a r i t I f Sh e h ad s .

a p a rty dr e ss i t would b e w h ite m uslin or

, ,

lig h t silv e ry gr e e n sil k trimm e d w it h pl e at ,

Ings of tull e a n d w it h t h e m Sh e w ould w e a r

,

h e mot h e r s p e a rls or h e r o w fi n e c a rbuncl e s

’
r n
,
.

M rs S e n ator wit h al l h e r fort u n e a d posi

.
,
n

tion is doom e d to h e a r p eople sp e ak of h e r in

,

und e r ton e s a t p arti e s Sh e is ric h but v e ry

-
,
“
,

pl a in . B e ing a s h r e wd wo ma n sh e do e s not
”
,

was t e h e r e fforts o n trying to lt e r h e r t h in a

9 20 T H E UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

h e r pale , f ri zze d h a ir t h a tfa c e m ak es h e r

”

more p e ak e d t h an i t i s an d h e o v e rsiz e d ,
r

skirts Sh e ough t no t to wea r t h e se lig h t

.

dre sse s for sh e h as no color an d h e r th i

, ,
n

compl e xion i s not e e n l e a r Sh e h a s t h a t

'

v c .

difficult figure to d ispos e of w h ic h is t onc e ,

a

girlis h a n d tall wi t h out s ee ming so A tra in e d

,
.

dre ss would m ak e h e r look le a so s h e s h ould n

,

dispe ns e w it h a l arge tourn ure a d l t h e ,

n e r

dre sse s brus h t h e floor a f e w inc h e s we a ring ,

as m any sm all fl o n c e s b e lo w t h e u kn e e s a

f as h ion an d se nse allo w If h e mot h e r wh o r

,

is r at h e r a strict l ad y wo uld insist o h a ving

,
n

t h e girl s dr e ss e s m ad e w it h pu ffe d wa ists or

’
,

l o o s e blouse s of t h ick lin e n inst e a d of t h e ,

Victori a l awns t h at i on so fl a t n d S h o w r ,
a

t h e poo r s h ould e r bl ad e s f i gh t f l l
-
t h e e ffe ct r u v
,

would b e rat h e r d e lig h tful Sh e oug h t to .

we a r puffe d gr e n a din e s a n d l e nos of m a oon r

—
rosy l il ac or d e e p gre e n t h e fi s t lig h te d w it h i
,

p l e rosy bo ws a t t h e t h ro a t an d i t h e h a ir
a n ,

t h e l a tt e w it h lig h t gr ee n an d w h ite t h e lil a c

r ,

wit h pe ri Wi nkl e knots Ho w on e wo u l d like

.
 C OIFFURES FO R THIN FA C ES . 22 1

to dre ss h e r ov e r again a n d turn t h e poor ,

t h ing out c h arming as sh e oug h t to b e Il r . e

h a i r dr e ssing wo ld al l h a v e to b e don e o e r
-
u v

ag a in S h arp fe atur e d p e opl e s h ouldn t we a r ’

-
.

curls w h ic h m ak e t h e p e ak e d e ffe ct still more

,

prom in e nt S of t wa v e s draw n lig h tly away

.
,

fro m t h e fa c e an d brus h e d u p fro m t h e n e c k

b e h ind would b e b e tt e r a d smoot h bra ids
, ,
n

b e st of al l w it h littl e wav e s p e e ping out und e r

,
'

t h e m If t h e young wom a n could t ai u h e

. . r r

s e lf not to b e e xcit abl e or to smil e SO ov e r ,

c o mi n
g l y a d not b e SO e ag e r to m e e t
,
n e w ao n

ai t a c e sh e would m ak e a pl e asing i m
n s,
q u n

pression w h il e n o w sh e g e ts sn ubb e d in a t a cit

,

way a n d t h os e w h o t ak e h e r up out of pity

,

h ardly fe e l a s if t h e y we e p a id for it I f r .

w om e n w it h h ay color e d h a ir could b e broug h t

-

to b e li e v e t h a t lig h t bro wn of all ot h e rs wasn t , ,

’

t h e color for t h e i styl e o e could fford to

r ,
n a

ov e rlook m inor d e fici e nci e s .

O n e is t e mpt e d to t h ink som e tim e s t h a t

t h e r e is a loss i n not a dopting t h e F r e nc h pl a n
of lining h ous e s wit h mirrors I f p e opl e con .
22 2 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

t i n u allyc aug h t sig h t o f t h e mse l e s t h e y would

‘
v
,

h rdly i ndulg e i n t h e g im ac e s an d g auc h e ri e s

a r

w h ic h t h e y inflict on t h e world I t co ld h ard

. u

1y l e a d to a n i t v in most c as e s a d would s e ttl e

v
,
n

m a ny v e xing probl e ms of dre ss a d d e m e a nor n .

O n e is not al ways to b e c e ns u r e d for studying

t h e gl ass .Th e or a tor m ust u s e i t to l e ar n
h o w to d e li v e r h is s e nt e nc e s w it h prop e r
f aci l pl ay a n d e asy g e sture Th e public
a .

singer studi e s wit h a mirror on t h e m usic

r a ck to ge t t h e ri g h t positio n of t h e mout h
for issuing th e voic e wit h out m aking a fa c e .

Th e wa nt of suc h tr a in ing m a rs t h e work of

som e gr e at artists w it h bl e mis h e s w h ic h n e a rly
undo t h e e ffe ct of t h e ir t al e nts
-
.

Th e inj unction t h a t al l t h ings s h ould b e

d o n e d e c e n tly an d in ord e r m e ans t h a t t h e y
oug h t to b pl e asing Th e study of ourse l v e s
e .

ca n h ardly b e compl e t e wit h out t h e a i d of t h e

m irror w h ic h s h o w s c andidly t h e cold smil
,
e ,

t h e v ac a nt b a s h ful g az e w e giv e our f e llo w

, ,

b e i gs inst e ad of t h e d e c e nt a tte ntion t h

n
, ,
e

k ind full gl a nc e it is m e e t t h e y S h ould h a v e

,
2 24: T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS -
.

C H AP T ER XX II .

P hy ica l E d c t i o n f G i l — A W m n s V l u e i t h e
s u a o r s . o a
’
a n

W o l d — H igh b d F ig s — An t iq u Ra c e — I n pi
r .
-
re u re e s s ra

ti n f A t
o o t V ni t y — Th e T ying A ge
o r n D a . r .
-
r e ss ,

F oo d d B t hing f Y u ng G i l
,
an a A V t Cl e or o r s .
-
e o on os

St u dy — B c .d B ckb d
ra e s — Ne v T lk f G i l
an a o ar s . er a o r s
'

F ee l ing E x e ci e f t e A m Singing Sc l e w i t h
— sh — r s or r s a s

C o rse t ff — D e v e l pm e n t f t h e B u t —O p n w o k Co
s o o o s . e -
r r

et t e
s h Bs e t — Th e B de e s f I ndi d th i F m av a r s o a an e r or s.

—T e
h D e lic cy d e Y ng G i l a— A F nk b t Ne e d e d
u ou r s . ra u

C u t i o n C e f t h e F ig u e ft e Nu ing
a — . ar o r a r rs .

A MERI C AN girls b e gin to m a k e muc h of

p h ysic al cultur e A s t h e y a dv an c e i e fi n e . n r

m e nt t h e y se e h o w muc h of t h e ir v alu e in SO
c ei ty d e p e nds o t h e n e rv e a d spirit w h ic h n n

a ccompani e s t h oro u g h d e v e lopm e nt I t is t . no

e noug h t h a t t h e y kno w h o w to d anc e l ngui d a

l a n d c arry t h e ms e l ve s i n comp any

I
,
TO d i — . s a

t i n g u i sh h e rs e lf a young b e ll e m ust o w s wim ,

r ,

Sk at e rid e an d e v e n s h oot to say not h ing of

, , ,
 T HE ES T FI GURE
R . 2 25

l e sso ns i n fe n cing w h ic h nobl e l adi e s i n C er

,
f

m a ny an d som e of for e ign f a mily h e r e t ak e

, ,

to d e v e lop sur e n e ss of h an d an d a ility Th e g .

h e a vy fl a t f o o t e d cr e ature wh o c an not wal k

,
~

a cross a roo m w it h out b e tr aying t h e b a d t e rms

h e j oints a e on wit h e ac h ot h e r must h a v e

r r
,

a spl e ndid f a c e a n d fortun e to k e e p an p l ac e

y
i n t h e world n o m atte r h o w good h e r family
, ,

or h o w a ri e d h e r a cquir e m e nts t h oug h sh e

v
,

sp e aks s e v e n l angu ag e s lik e a n ati v e an d h as ,

pl ay e d son at as sinc e sh e was e ig h t y e ars old .

A wom a n s v alu e d e p e nds e nt i r e l y o n h e r use

’

to t h e world a n d to t h at p e rson wh o h app e ns

to h a v e t h e most of h e r soci e ty A man lik e s .

t h e soci e ty o f a wom a n wh o c an walk a mil e

.

or t wo to se e an Int e r e sting v i e w an d c an ,

t ak e long j ourn e ys wit h out b e ing l aid up by

t h e m He like s smoot h motions r ound a rms
.
,

an d t h ro at h e ad h e ld straig h t an d s h ould e rs
, ,

t h at do not b o w out W h e n you se e t h a t a.

fi n e figur e m ust b e a str a ig h t lin e fro m t h e

roots of t h e h ai r to t h e b as e of t h e s h ou ld e r
'

b l a d e v o u wil l r e ali ze h o w f e w wom e n ap

226 T HE U G LY » G IR L PAPERS .

pro ac h t h is h ig h br e d id e al S p e ci al culture
“

-
,
.

ind e e d i s disc e rn e d w h e re suc h e xc e ll e nc e of

,

lin e m e e ts t h e e y e Th e polis h e d r ac e s of t h e
.

E ast wh o untutor e d a n d d e grad e d y e t h a v e

, , ,

t h e e nt a il of antiqu e subtl e ty a n d ar t in h e rit ,

suc h fi gur e s along wit h t h e prov e rbs of s ag e s

an d p al a c e mos a ics T e b e st bor n of all
. h -

coun tr i e s h a v e t h is nobl e se t of h e ad t h i s ,

l an c e lik e figur e an d e asy pl ay of limb

-
,
.

A s sur e ly as o n e c an b e ed u c at e d to rig h t
t h oug h ts an d m ann e rs so t h e motions an d
,

pois e of limb c an b e tr ain e d to corr e ctn e ss .

Th e work m ust b e gin e a rly A girl s h ould .

b e put i n tr a i n ing as soon a s sh e p ass e s from

‘

th e plum p n e s s of c h ild h ood into t h e u gl y

a e of d e v e lopm e nt
g T h e mot h e r s h ould i n
.

sp e ct h e r dre ssing to se e w h at improv e m e nt is

n e e d e d an d sti mul at e th e c h ild by t h e d e sire
,

to poss e ss b e a utiful limbs an d figur e Th e .

se nse s ar e e arly a wak e to t h e s e ns e of grac e .

T h e r e is no b e tt e r w ay to i nspir e a girl wit h i t

t h an to t ak e h e to pictur e g all e ri e s s h o w t h e
r -
,

fa c e s of h istoric al b e a uti e s or t h e figure s of

,
2 28 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

n e rvous wi t h fatigu e w h e n t h e e xcit e m e nt is

Ov e r Se e t h at sh e do e s n ot s u ff e r fro m cold
.
,

a n d t h a t s h e is not too w a rmly dr e ss e d r e ,

m e m b e i n g a plump a cti v e c h ild w ill suff e r

r ,

w it h h e a t und e r t h e clot h e s i t t ak e s to k e e p
yo u comfort abl e I f sh e is t h in an d s e nsit i v e
.
,

c ar e m ust b e t ak e n ag ainst sudd e n c h ills .

K e e p h e r o n e ry Simpl e but we l l fl a o r e d
v -
v

di e t w it h pl e nty of sour fruit if sh e cra v e i t

, , ,

for t h e young h a v e a f acility for gro wing bil

i o n s w h ic h a cids corr e ct
,
S we e t pickl e s not
.
-

too h ig h ly spic e d a re fa vorit e s wit h c h ildre n

a n d b e tt e r t h a n s w e e tm e a ts
. N uts an d ai . r

sins a r e mor e w h ol e som e t h a n c andi e s Ne w .

c h e e s e an d cr e a m ar e to b e pre fe rr e d to butte r
w it h br e ad a n d v e g e t abl e s S oup an d a littl e.

of t h e b e st a n d j uici e st m e a t s h ould b e gi ve n
a t dinn e r But t h e misc e ll an e ous st u fli n g t h at
.

h lf gro wn girls e allo we d to i ndulge i n

a -
ar

ruins t h e ir compl e xion t e mp e r an d dig e stion

, ,
.

N o coffe e nor t e a s h o uld b e t ak e n by a ny h u

m n b e ing till it is full gro wn Th e e x c i t e
'

-
a .

m e n t of young n e rv e s by t h e s e drinks is ruin

 PROPORTION OF W ORK A ND PL AY . 2 29

Ou s . B e sid e s t h e l xury an d t h e st i mulus is

,
u

gre ate r to t h e adult w h e n d e b a rr e d from t h e se

t h ings t h roug h c h ild h ood N e it h e r m ind nor
.

body s h ould b e work e d till m aturity C h i l .

dr e n W ill do all t h e y ou gh t in study an d

w ork w it h out m uc h urging ; an d t h e y will
l e arn mor e an d r e m e mb e r mor e i n t wo h ours
of study to fi e o f pl ay t h an i f t h e ord e r is
v -
,

in v e rte d Say to a c h ild G e t t h is l e sson an d

.
,

y o u ma
y go to pl ay —an d
y o u will b e astonis h

e d to se e h o w r apidly it l e arns ;but i f o n e l e s a

son i s to succ e e d anot h e r till si x dre ary h ours

h a v e dragge d away i t los e s h e art an d l e arns
, ,

m e re ly W h a t c an not we ll b e h e l pe d A girl .

u nd e r e ig h t e e n oug h t not to pr actic e at th e

pi ano or sit at a d e sk mor e t h an t h r ee qu ar
t e rs of an h our at a tim e T h e n sh e s h ould.

r u n out o f —
-
doors t e n minut e s or e x e rcis e to ,
,

r e l i e v e t h e n e rv e s A n a dult n e v e r oug h t to
f

study or Si t mor e t h an an h our w it h out bri e f

c h ange b e for e p assing to t h e n e xt T h is .

k e e ps t h e h e ad cl e ar e r t h e limbs fr e s h e r an d
, ,

c arri e s on e t h ro u gh a d ay wi t h l e ss fatig u e
.
2 30 THE UGLY GIRL PAPE R S
.

t h an if o n e w ork e d e ig h t h ours an d t h e n r e st ~

e d four .

T h oug h tful te ac h e rs do n o t s h ar e t h e pr ej u «

dic e aga inst b rac e s an d b ack b o ards for k e e p ~

ing t h e figur e straig h t es p e ci ally w h e n young

.

,
.

I t is t h e instinct of b arb a rous n atio n s t o u se

suc h a ids i n com pe lling e r e ctn e ss in t h e ir c h il
dre n T h e s e a ppli anc e s n e e d not b e p ainful
.

i n t h e l e ast b u t r at h e r r e li e v e t e nd e r m u scl e s
,

an d b on e s L anguid girl s s h ould t ak e cool

.

sitz b at h s to stre ngt h e n t h e m uscl e s of th e

-

b ack a n d h ips w h ic h ar e more t h an ord in ari

'

l y susc e ptibl e O f f a tigu e w h e n c h ild h ood is

ov e r But n e ze r t alk of a girl s fe e lings i n
.
'
’

mind or body b e fore h e r or su ffe r h e r to ,

d we ll o n t h e m Th e e ff e ct is b ad p h ysic al ly
.

an d m e nt ally Se e t h a t t h ese inj unctions ar e

.

O b e v e d implicitly ; sp a r e h e r t h e w h ys an d

w h e r e for e s I t is e noug h for h e r to kno w

.

t h a t sh e w ill f e e l b e tt e r for t h e m O f al l .

t h ings d e l iv e r us from v a l e tudin ari a ns of fi f

,
’

t e e n N e v e r l ug h at t h e m ; n e v e r sn e e r ;
.
-
a

n e v e r indulg e t h e m i n s e l f condolings -
Be .
23 2 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS .

t h os e m uscl e s of th e S h ould e r w h ich giv e its

gra c e ful slop e T h i s is d e v e lop e d by t h e
.

u se of t h e skipping rop e i n s winging i t ov e r

-
,

t h e h ead a n d by b attl e door w h ic h k e e ps t h e

, ,

a rms e xt e n d e d at t h e
,
s am e tim e u sing t h e
m uscl e s of t h e n e ck an d s h ould e r s S wingi n g .

by t h e h ands f ro m a rop e is c apit al an d so is ,

s winging from a b ar T h e s e muscl e s a re t h e

.

l ast to r e c e i v e e x e rcis e i n common mod e s of

life an d pl aying b all b e a n b ags or pillo w
, ,
-
,

fi gh t s a e conv e ni e nt ways of c alling t h e m

r

i nto a ction . S inging sc a l e s wit h cors e ts Off

s h ould e rs t h ro wn b a ck lungs d e e ply infl at e d
, ,

mo u t h wid e op e n an d br e ath h e ld is t h e b e st
, ,

tuition for insuring t h at fulln e ss to t h e upp e r

p a rt of t h e c h e st w h ic h giv e s m aj e sty to a
figu e e e n wh e n t h e bust is m e agre T h e s e
r v
'

sc al e s s h ould b e pr actic e d h alf an h our morn

ing an d a ft e rnoon g ain ing t wo e nds at onc e
,

— i ncr e as e of v oic e an d p e rfe ctio n of figur e .

T h is brings us to t h e inquiri e s m ad e by
mor e t h an o n e corr e s p ond e n t for som e m e ans
o f d e v e loping t h e b ust E v e ry mot h e r S h ould
.
 C ORSET S FOR GIRLS . 23 3

pay a tt ention to t h is m att e r b e for e h e r d a u gh .

te rs t h ink of suc h a t h ing for t h e ms e lv e s by ,

s e e ing t h at t h e ir dre ss e s ar e n e v e r i n t h e l e as t
constrict e d a cross t h e c h e st an d t h at a fool
,

is h dre ssm ak e r n e v e r puts p addi n g i nto t h e ir

wa ists . Th e h orribl e custo m Of we aring p ad s
is t h e ruin of n atur al figur e s by h e ating an d
,

pre ssing do wn t h e bosom T h is most d e lic ate

.

a n d s e nsit i v e p art of a w om a n s for m m ust al

’
~

w ays h e k e pt cool a n d we l l support e d by a

,

lin e n cors e t Th e op e n work e d on e s ar e by

-

f a r t h e b e st an d t h e compr e ssion if a n y s h ould

, , ,

not b e ov e r t h e h e ar t an d fix e d ribs as i t ge n ,

e rall
y is b u t j ust at t h e wa ist
,
for not,
mor e

t h an t h e W idt h of a bro ad waistb and Si x .

i nc h e s of t h ick coutill e ov e r t h e h e a rt an d
s tom a c h — t h os e p arts of th e body t h a t h a v e
mos t vital h e at must sur e ly d isord e r t h e m a d
— n

affe ct t h e bust as we ll I t would b e b e tt e r if

.

t h e coutill e we re o v e r t h e s h ould e rs or t h e ah

dom e n an d t h e w h al e bon e s of t h e cors e t h e l d

,

toge t h e r by bro ad t a p e s so t h a t t h e r e would

,

b e l e ss dr e ssing o v e r t h e h e a rt inst e ad of ,
2 34; T HE UGLY GIRL PAPE RS .

mor e . A d e e p bosom r at h er t h an a h o ld
l o w, ,

on e is a Sign of gr a c e i n a full Ow n w om a n r
g
-
, ,

a n d a full bust is h a rdly a dmir abl e i n a n u n ~

m arri e d girl He r figure s h ould b e all curv e s

.
,

b u t sl e n d e r promising a full e r b e a uty w h e n

,

m a turity i s r e ac h e d O n e is not fond of ov e r

.

ri pe p e a rs .

F l at figure s a r e b e st diss e mbl e d by puffe d

an d s h irr e d blous e wa ists or by cors e ts w it h a
-
,

fi n e r att an run i n t h e top of t h e boso m gor e ,

w h ic h t h ro ws out t h e fulln e ss s u fli c i e n t ly to
look we ll in a pl a i n co sa g e O f al l t h ings
r .
,

I ndi a rubb e r p ads ac t most inj uriously by

-

const antly s we ating t h e Skin an d ruining t h e ,

bust b e yond h op e of r e stor a tion To improv e .

its outlin e s we a r a lin e n cors e t fitting so clos e

,

a t t h e e n d of t h e top gor e s as to suppor t t h e

bosom we ll F or t h is t h e cors e t m u st b e fitte d

.

to t h e skin an d wo n n e xt t h e und e r fl an n e l
,
r -
.

Nig h t a d morning w as h t h e bust in t h e cold

n

e st wa e t r — Sponging it up wa rd but n e v e r ,

do wn M ad am e Cel ar t r e l at e s t h a t t h e b ay
. n

a d e r e s of I ndi a culti v a t e t h e ir for m s by we a r

 THE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

n e rv e s th e bosom by an e xcit e m e nt t h at is
'

, ,

simply r u inous to a c h ild s n e rvous syst e m ’

.

T h is i s pre tty pl ain t alking but no pl ain e r ,

t h an t h e subj e ct d e m ands G irls a e v e ry dif. r

f e e n t i n t h e i r f e e lings
r S om e affe ction a te
.
,

i nnoc ent h e a rty n ature s r e m in t h roug h t h e ir

,
a

liv e s as simpl e as w h e n t h e y we re b ab e s t aking

t h e ir b at h und e r t h e ir mot h e rs h an ds ;whil e ’
’

ot h e rs e qu ally innoc e nt but mor e susc e ptibl e

, ,

re quire to b e gu ard e d an d s h e lte re d e v e n from

t h e v iol enc e O f a c a r e ss as if fro m contagion

an d p a in .

Du e a tt e n tion to t h e ge n e r al h e alt h al ways

h as its e ffe ct i n r e storing t h e bust to its rou n d
n e ss I t is a mist ak e t h at it is irr e m e di ably
.

inj ur e d b v mu s ing c h ildre n A b ab e m ay b e .

t a ug h t not to pinc h a n d bit e its mot h e r a d ,

n

t h e e x e r c is e of a n a tur a l function c a n inj ur e

h e r i n n o way if prop e r c a e is t ak e n to sus

,
r

t in t h e syst e m a t t h e s a m e tim e C old com

a .

pre ss e s of we t lin e n wo n ov e r t h e bre ast a e

r r

v e ry soot h ing a d b e n fici l provid e d t h e y d o

n e a ,

not strik e a c h ill to we ak c h e st A t t h e

a .
 D
REST ORING T HE FIGURE . 2 37

sam e
"
t i me t h e cinctur e s h ould b e c ar e fully
adj u st e d . W e akn e ss of a y kind affe cts th e
n

contour of t h e figur e an d it is us e l e ss to try to

,

im pro ve it i n an y ot h e r way t h an by r e storing

t h e str e ng th w h e r e it is wa nting . T e pid sitz
b at h s str e ngt h e n th e muscl e s of th e h ips a d ,
n

do a way wit h t h a t dragging w h ic h i j u r e sth e

n

firmn e ss of t h e bosom B at h ing in wat e r to

.

w h i c h a mmoni a is a dd e d str e ngt h e ns t h e skin ,

but t h e u se of c amp h or to dry t h e m ilk a ft e r

we aning a c h ild is r e pr e h e nsibl e . N o drying
or h e ating lot ions of a n y kin d S h o u ld e v e r b e
ap p li e d e xc e p t i n illn e s s
.
 T IIE UGLY GIRL PA PER S ;
-

C HA P T ER XX III .

Ha nd d C mpl e xi n s — P p g f P t i — Re fi i ng
s an o o re an n
'

or ar es n

Ro u gh F c e — C b lic B t h — C h lk
a sd C c ill ar o a s a an as ar a .

—G lyce in W h — Sch l -gi l F l u h d H nd

r e as d . oo r s
’
s e a s an

F c s
a
e — T O S ft n t h e H — —
d R d N s Se c e t f
o e an s
“

e o se r s o

M ki g p C l gn e f t E v e C m e t ic G l o v es
a — n -
u h .
— o o or e s . os .

To I mp t B illi n t C o mp l xi n
ar a r a e o .

P EOPLE troubl e i cold we at h e r about

ar e in n

t h e ir h ands a n d t h e ir compl e xions w h ic h t ak e ,

t h e tim e w h e n p a rti e s abound an d o wn e rs ,

n e e d t h e ir v e ry b e st looks to pu t on a r u inous ,

air . I t is mor e t h a n susp e ct e d t h a t t h e young

l ady wh o b e gs for som e good f ac e po wd e r or
'

wa h t h a t will h id e a b a d compl e xio n w i t h out

s

spoiling i t e ntir e ly h as t h e e n d i n v i e w of ,

m aki n g h e rs e lf pr e s e nt abl e in soci e ty for t h e

wint e r He e ntire ly r e ason abl e r e qu e st s h all
. r

b e a tt e nd e d to no l e ss on h e r o wn a ccount ,

t h a b e c a us e sh e write s i n t h e n a m e of four
n

d e vot e d subscrib e rs C ar b olic so ap s fail to .

24 0 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS .

or not b at h e d Oft e n e noug h sinc e

i r r e g u la r l v, ,

som e skins r e quire mor e fre qu e nt cl e ansing

an d stimul u s t h a n ot h e rs b e c a us e t h e y s e cre t e
,

mor e P e r h aps ot h e r f u nctions a e disturb e d

. r .

o r t h e blood is not stirr e d e noug h by liv e ly

e x e rcis e D ire ctions for di e t h a v e b e e n giv e n

.

b e for e i n t h e s e p ag e s I t w ill b e e noug h to

.

r e comm e n d p e opl e w it h irrit abl e blood to

drink a gl ass or t wo of m ild cid e r o r e at o r
a ng e s or l e mons as t h e y f ancy w it h i n t h e h alf ,
,

h our b e fore e ac h m e al e sp e ci ally b e for e br e ak

,

fast A S h a rd work or e x e rcis e as on e c an e n

.
'

dur e stirs sluggis h s e cre tions an d work s h ould ,

al wa v s b e brisk Many a young wom an mop e s

.

o v e r h ous e work d ay a ft e r d ay st anding o n

-
,

h e r f e e t m ost of t h e tim e a n d f a nci e s t h a t

,

s h e h as e x e rcis e w h e n h e r slo w blood do e s

,

not onc e i n t e n h ours r e c e i v e impuls e e noug h

to s e nd it vigorously from h e a d to foot in a

way o n e co u ld c all living Work s wiftly

.
“

an d r e st w e ll oug h t to b e a wom an s rul e

” ’
.
,

W h e n t h e blood flo ws s wiftly t h e e ye is cl e ar , ,

t h e sig h t b e tt e r t h e s ki n r e fin e d an d t h e
, ,
 C AR B OLI C B ATHS . 24 1

wh ol e body fe e ls improv e m en t ; m e m ory an d

t h o u g h t a e improv e d idl e n e ss t ak e s wing
r , ,

a d h appin e ss st e als into t h e h e a rt

n .

Y oung l a di e s s h ould not gi v e up t h e ir

b at h ing w it h c arbolic so ap H ot wat e r w it h
.
,

a s poonful of prop h yl actic fluid or h e n yl to

p
e a c h qu art is a v e ry w h ol e som e b at h i n ski n
,

disord e rs follo we d by a brisk rub wi t h c rash

,

till warm or wr apping i n a bl ank e t by t h e

,

fi r e till all d ang e r of c h illin e ss is p ast Th e .

p h e n yl a n d prop h yl a ctic fl uid a r e mild e r

forms of c a rbolic a cid an d lik e it d isinfe c t
, , ,

a t a d h e aling
n n A sponge b at h or plunge a t
.

s e v e nty fi e d egr e e s aft e r a h ot b at h pr e v e nts

-
v

al l we a k e ning e ffe cts an d t a king cold Non e .

but robust p e rsons s h ould e v e r t ak e b at h s e x

c e pt in a war m room Th e b at h roo m s h ould
.
-

al ways b e so a rr ang e d as to b e h e a t e d i a n

f e w min ut e s O t h e r wis e t h e b t h is b e st
. a

t ak e n i n on e s o wn room b e for e t h e fi e
’

r .

Th e disguis e for a b a d Skin is e sily found a .

Re fin e d c h alk is t h e s afe st t h ing to se a d u

,
n

costs f ar l e ss by i ts o wn n am e t h a n put up in
24 2 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPE RS .

p h otograp h box e s as
“
L ily Wh it e ,
”
e tc . C as
c arilla po wd e r w h ic h t h e C ub an l adi e s u se so
,

m uc h is r e comm e nd e d as e ntir e ly h arml e ss

,
.

I t i s pr e p ar e d from a root us e d i n me dicin e ,

a n d i n Ne w Y ork is sold at all t h e l ittl e C ub an

s h ops wit h ciga rs t e pi c s we e tm e ats an d ot h e r

, ,
r
,

n e c e ss ari es of life E it h e r was h t h e f ac e wit h

.

t h ick s u ds from glyc e rin e so ap an d dust t h e ,

po wd e r o n wit h a s wan s do w n p u ff r e mo v ’
-
,

ing sup e rfluous trace s wit h a fr e s h p u ff k e pt

for t h e purpos e or e ls e grind t h e p o wd e r in
,

we t lin e n by pr essing it in t h e fin g e rs an d ,

a pply W h at oo ze s t h roug h to t h e skin A fine .

w as h for a ro u g h or sunburn e d ski n is m a d e

of t wo ounc e s of distill e d wat e r o n e ounc e of ,

glyc e rin e o n e ounc e of alco h ol an d h alf an

,

ounc e of tincture of b e nzoin Wit h out t h e .

wa t e r an d w it h t h e a ddition of t wo ounc e s of
,

pr e p are d c h alk fr e e fro m bismut h i t m ak e s a ,

f a r b e tt e r cosm e tic for w h it e ning t h e f a c e t h a n

a n
y of t h e e xp e nsiv e B alms of Y out h
“
or
”

“
M agnoli a Blooms I f a fl e s h tint i s d e
”
.

s ir e d a d d a gr a in of c armin e
, .
24 4 TH E UGLY GIRL PA PER S .

ing O ff st ains at t h e s a m e tim e Far m

b ad .
c

e r s gi ls w ill t k e not e of t h is an d also t h a t

’
r a ,

rubbing t h e h ands w it h a slic e of r aw pot ato

w il l r e mov e v e g e t abl e s t a ins R ubbing t h e .

h ands we ll wit h al m ond O il an d pl ast e ring -

,

t h e m wit h as m uc h fi n e c h alk as t h e y c a n
t ak e o n going to b e d will usu ally w h it e n t h e m
, ,

in t h re e d ays tim e an d t h i s h int m ay b e of

’
,

s e rvic e b e fore a p arty of conse qu e nc e .

R e dn e ss of t h e nos e is a Sign of b ad cir e n

l ation a n d of h umor n t h e blood I t is b e s t I .

tre at e d by applic ations of p h e nyl rubb e d o n ,

oft e n e ac h d ay a d by alt e r ati v e s A spoon

,
n .

ful of w h it e m ust ard s e e d t ak e n i n wat e r b e

f re bre kf st e ve ry morning is o f s e rvic e i n
o a a

t h is c a e a d in rus h of blood to t h e h e ad
s n

w h ic h al w ys h as som e t h ing to do w it h con

a

st i a t i o R e fin e d c h alk m a d e into a t h ick

p n .

pl st e r w it h o n e t h ird as muc h glyc e rin e as

a

w t e a d spr e d on t h e p a rts w ill cool e y

a r
,
n a ,
r

s i e l t o s i fl mm a tion a d r e duc e t h e
n ed
p a u a n r

n e ss .

Th e s e cre ts of m aking p h v e h a rdly l l

“ -
u a a
 MAKING UP . 24 5

b e e n m e ntion e d t h o u g h t h e list is gro wing

,

long N
. V h a t girl d o e s n o t kno w t h a t e ating
lump sugar we t wit h C ologn e j ust b e for e goi g
-
n

out w il l m ak e h e e y e s brig h t or t h a t t h e
r
,

h om e li e r mod e of flirting so ap su d s i nto t h e m -

h as t h e s am e e ff e ct ? S p anis h l adi e s sq u e e z e
o ange j uic e i n to t h e ir e y e s to m ak e t h e m
r

s h in e A C ontin e nt al r e cip e for w h it e ning t h e

.

h ands looks strong e noug h : T ak e h alf a pound

of soft so ap a gill o f salad Oil an ounc e of
-
,
0
-
,

m utto n t allo w an d boil tog e t h e r ;a ft e r boil

,

ing c e as e s add o e gill of spirits of win e an d

,
n

a scrupl e of a mb e rgris ;rip a p air of glov e s

t h re e siz e s too l a g e spr e ad t h e m wit h t h is

r
,

p aste a n d se w u p to b e worn a t n ig h t A
,
. .

curious w s h e vid e ntly I t ali a i n its origin is :

a ,
n ,

E qu al p a rts of m e lon pumpkin gourd a n d , ,

cucumb e r s e e ds pound e d to po wd e r soft e n e d ,

w it h c e a m a d t h inn e d to a p ast e w it h milk

r
,
n ,

p e rfum e d wit h g in of m sk a d t h r e e drops

a ra u n

of oil of l e mon (O i l of j smi e m ay b e s ub st i a n

t ted f
u t h e musk )
or Th e fa c e bosom an d
. ms , ,
ar

ar ea noint e d wit h t h is ov e nig h t a d was h e d r

,
n
24 6 T HE U GLY GIRL PAPERS .

O ff in rm w ate r i n t h e morning Th e a u
wa .

th i ty quot e d s ays it a dds r e m ark abl e purity

or

a d brilli anc e to t h e compl e xion

n . S uc h p a ins
will wom e n t ak e for t h at b e auty w h ic h a ft e r
,

al l is only Skin d e e p .But did n ot De S tael

sh e would g i v e h al f h e r kno wl e dg e for
sa
y
p e rson al ch arm s .
24 8 T HE UGLY GIRL P A PERS -
.

is a ge n e r ation of we a k nerv e s I t s h o ws .

p a rticul rly in t h e l o w ton e of spirits com mon

a

to m e n a d wom e n T h y c n ot b e r s n
n . e an a u

s h in e i t h e ir h ous e s ;t h e y fi nd t h e colors of
n

Ja cqu s M inot ros e s an d of G erom e s picture s

e
’

too d p ;t h e w altz i n Tr e v i e w is too b ill

ee r

i a t R ossini s m sic is too s e nsuous a d Wag

’
n u n
, ,

n e r s too s e ns ation al ;M e nd e lsso h n is too lig h t

’

B e e t h ov e n too cold T h e i r work is fuss ;i a .

st e ad o f r e sting t h e y idl e an d t h e r e is a
—
,

W id e diffe re nc e b e t we e n t h e t wo t h ings Pe o .

l e w h o drink stro n g t e a an d smok e too m any

p
cigars r e a d or st ay i n doors too m uc h find
,
-
,

t h e h um of cr e ation too loud for t h e m Th e .

s w e ll of th e wind in t h e pin e s m ak e s t h e m
gloo my t h e s we e p of t h e stor m prostrat e s
,

t h e m w it h t e rror t h e e v e rl asting b e ating of

,

t h e surf a d t h e nois e s of t h e str e e ts alik e

n

w e ary t h e ir w ort h l e ss n erv e s Th e h appy .

c i e s of sc h ool c h ildr e n a t pl ay a e a g i e
r -
r r v

a nc e to t h e m ; i nd e e d t h e e a e p e opl e wh o ,
r r

find t h e c h i p of t h e h e t h crick e t a d t h e
r ar n

S ng ng t e a k e ttl e intol e r abl e Bu t it is a

i i -
:
 HEALT HY NOISES . 24 9

Sig of dis e as e d e rv e s N a tur e is full of

n n .

nois e s an d only w h e re d e at h r e igns is t h e re

,

sil e nc e O n e wis h e s t h a t t h e m e n a d wom e n

. n

wh o c a n t b e a r a c h ild s oic e a sing e r s pr

’ ’ ’
v ae
,

tic e or t h e p assing of fe e t up a d do w n stai rs

,
n

mig h t b e tr a n porte d to sil e nc e lik t h at w h i h

s e c

w r ps t h e pol e s or t h e sp a c e s b eyond t h e st a s
a r

till t h e y could l e a r to we lcom e sound wit h

n
,

out w h ic h no o n e li v e s .

C h ildre n m ust m ak e n ois e a d a gr e a t d e al ,

n

of it to b e h e al t h v Th e s h outs t h e r a ck e t
,
.
,

t h e t u m b l e a n d turmoil t h e y m ak e a e n a t ,
r

ur e s way of v e ntil ating t h e ir bodi e s of s e nd

’
,

m g t h e br e at h full into t h e v e ry l st corn e r of a

t h e lungs a n d t h e blood a n d n e rvou s fluid into

,

e v e ry cord an d fibr e of t h e ir muscl e s I nst e ad .

of qu elling t h e ir riot it would b e a bl e ssing to

,

old e r folks to j oin it wit h t h e m T h e e is a . r n

a w ful trut h follo wing t h is a ss e rtion D o vou .

kno w t h t m e n a n d wom e n go m ad aft e r t h e

a

n a tur a l stim ul us w h ic h fr e e a i r an d bounding

e x e rcis e supply ? I t is t h e l a ck of th is most

po we rful inspiration w h ic h kno ws no r e ac ,
~
250 T HE UGLY G IRL PAPERS .

tion t h a t m ak e s t h e m drunk ards g am e st e rs

,
‘

an d fl i n s t h e m into e v e v dissip tion of body

g r a

a n d soul . Me n a d wom e n e sp e ci ally t h os e

n ,

l e ading studious r e pre ss e d li v e s oft e n c onfe ss

, ,

to a longing for som e fi e rc e bri e f m adn e ss ,

t h at w ould unse a t t h e inc ubus of t h e ir li v e s .

C l e rgym e n e ditors w riting wom e n an d t h os e

, , ,

wh o l e a d s e d e nt a ry li v e s h a e s a id i
,
your
v n

h e aring an d min e t h a t som e t h ing ail e d t h e m

t h e y could not und e rst and T h e y fe lt a s if .

t h e y would lik e to go on a spre e d anc e t h e ,

t ar ant e ll a or scre am till t h e y we re tire d T h e y

,
.

t h oug h t i t t h e moving of som e d e pra v e d i m

puls e not y e t root e d out of t h e ir n a ture s an d ,

to subdu e i t cost t h e m h ours of struggl e an d

m o r t i fi c at i o n P oor souls ! T h e y n e e d n ot
.

h a v e visite d t h e ms e l v e s s e v e r e ly if t h e y h ad
kno wn t h e trut h t h a t t h is l a wl e ss longing was
t h e c r v of idl e n e rv e a d m uscl e fr antic n
,

t h r o u gh d i s u se W h a t t h e cl e rgym a wa nt e d
. n

w as to l e a v e h is books an d h is subd u e d d e
m e anor for t h e h il l country for t h e woods
-
, ,

w h e r e h e could n o t only walk but l e ap run , , ,

2 52 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS .

h e alt h of m any w om e n b egins to improv e

fro m t h e tim e t h e y study m usic Wh y ? Be .

c a us e i t furnis h e s an outl e t for t h e ir fe e lings ,

a n d e qu a lly b e c a u se S ng ng e x e rts t h e lungs

i i

an d muscl e s of t h e c h e st w h ic h l i e in a cti v e .

Th e po we r for t h e h ig h e st as we ll as t h e
lo we s t note is suppli e d by t h e b e llo ws of
t h e lungs w ork e d by t h e mig h ty m uscl e s O f
,

t h e c h e st an d sid e s I n t h is pl ay t h e r e d
.

blood goe s to e v e ry tiny c e ll t h a t h as b e e n

W h it e a n d f a in t f o r wa nt of its food ; t h e
e ngorg e d br ain an d n e rvous c e ntr e s w h e r e t h e

blood h as s e ttl e d h e ating an d irrit ating t h e m

, ,

ar e r e li e v e d ;t h e h e a d f ee l s brig h t t h e h a nds ,

gro w warm t h e e y e s cl e a r an d t h e spi its

, ,
r

l i v e ly T h is is aft e r Singing strongly for h alf

.

an h our . Th e s a m e e ffe ct is g a in e d by an y
ot h e r k ind of brisk w ork t h at s e ts t h e l ungs
an d muscl e s going but as m u s i c brings e m o
,

tion into pl ay a d is a pl e asur e or a r e li e f as

,
n

it is m e l an c h oly or gay i t is pr e fe rabl e Th e

,
.

work t h a t e ng ag e s o n e s int e r e st a s we ll s
’
a

s tr e ngt h is al ways t h e b e st Pe r contr a wh a t

.
,
 B LE SSING OF W ORK . 2 53

e v e r o e do e s t h orough ly a d w it h disp atc h

n n

s e ldom contin u e s dist st e ful T h e re i s m o e

a . r

t h a n we se e a t a gl a nc e i n t h e comm and ,

“
W h atso e e t h y h an d fi d e th to do do i t
v r n
,

w it h t h y mig h t Th e r e ason gi v e n b e c a us e
”
.
,

t h e ti m e is s h ort for all t h e cultur e a n d all t h e

good work we wis h to accompl is h is t h e ap ,

p ar e nt o e ;but t h e root of it li e s i n th e n e c e s
n

siti e s of o u r b e ing O nly work don e wit h our

.

mig h t wil l s atisfy our e n e rgi e s an d k e e p t h e ir

b al anc e H alf t h e wom e n in t h e world a re
.

suff e ring fro m c h ronic unr e st morbid a mbi ,

tions a n d dis appointm e nts t h a t wo uld fl e e lik e

,

morning mist b e for e an h our of h e arty tiring ,

work .

I t is not so muc h m att e r w h a t t h e w k or

is as h o w it is don e
,
.

Th e we ak s h ould t ak e work u p by d e gre e s ,

w orking h alf an h our an d r e sting t h e n going ,

a t it st e ad ily ag ain I t is b e tt e r to work a lit

.

t l e briskly an d r e st t h a n to k e e p o n t h e slo w

drag t h roug h t h e d ay L e arn not only to do .

t h ings we ll but to do t h e m quickly I t is

, .
2 54 T HE UGLY GI RL PA PE RS .

disgr ac e ful to loite r a d dron e ov e r on e s n

’

w ork . I t is intol e r abl e bot h i n music an d in

life .

Th e b ody lik e all sl a v e s h as t h e po we r to

, ,

r e act o n its t ask m ast e r All m e an p assions

-
.

a pp e a r born of dis e a s e d n e rv e s \V a s t h e r e
.
.

e v e r a j e alous w om n wh o did not h a v e dys

a

e s i a or a h ig h t e mp e re d o n e wit h out a t e nd
-
pp ,

e ncy to spin al irr i t a tion ? H e at h e n t e mp e rs

i n yo u ng p e opl e ar e a Sign of w rong h e alt h ,

a n d mot h e rs s h ould s e n d f o p h ysici a n as we ll

r

as pri e st to e xorcis e t h e m Th e gr e a t r e m e dy
.

for t e mp e r is Sl e e p No c h i ld t h a t sl e e ps
— .
'

e noug h w ill b e fr e tf u l ;a n d t h e s a m e t h ing is

n e arly a s tru e of c h ildr e n of l arge r gro wt h

’
.

N ot l e ss t h an e ig h t h ours is t h e m e asur e of .

sl e e p for a h e alt h y w om an u nd e r fifty Sh e .

m y b e abl e to ge t o n w it h l e ss an d d o con
a ,

s i d e a b l e w ork
r e it h e r w it h
,
m ind or h ands .

But sh e could do so muc h m or e to b e tt e r sa t ,

i f a t i o n b v t aking o n e or t wo h ours m o e
s c . r

Sl e e p t h at sh e c an not afford to los e i t IV o m

,
.

e n wh o u se t h e ir br a ins t e ac h e rs a rtists writ

-n -
, ,
2 56 T HE UGLY G IRL PA PER S .

p e opl e ar e not as m uc h al arm e d by it Th e .

bra in is a more d e lic at e o ga n t h an t h e st e m r

a c h a n d not h ing so sur e ly disord e rs it a s wa nt

,

of sl e e p I n troubl e or sorro w lig h t s e d ativ e s

.
,

s h ould b e e mploy e d lik e r e d l a v e nd e r or t h e

,

brom at e of pot ass a for t h e n e rv e s h a v e mor e

,

to b e ar an d n e e d al l t h e r e st t h ey a ge t
,
c n .

Th e wa r m b at h I re p e a t is b e tt e r t h a n e it h e r
, ,
.

S uns h in e m usic work a n d sl e e p a e t h e

, , ,
r

gre a t m e dicin e s for wom e n T h e y n e e d more .

sl e e p t h an m e n for t h e y a e not so strong a d

,
r ,
n

t h e ir n e rv e s p e r h aps a e more a cut e Work

r .

is t h e b e st cure for e nnu i a d for g i e f Le t n r .

t h e m sing w h e t h e r of lov e longing or sor o w

, , ,
r
,

pouring out t h e ir h e a rts till t h e lov e r e turns

,

i nto t h e ir o wn bosoms till t h e longing h as

,

sp e nt its forc e or till t h e sorro w h as lift e d

,

i ts e lf i n to t h e suns h in e an d t ak e n t h e h u e of
,

trust n ot of d e sp air
,
.
 C A PRI CE S IN H A IR . 257

C HA P T ER XXV .

C h nging Wig
a s o s an d B id — C hign n
Fi .
— M a t ching ra s . I Z <

zi g t h e H i —C imping pin —B l nd H i pin

n a r . r -
s . o e a r- s .

Wh t C l H h u — Bl ching T e e Su lph u P t
a o o rs a ea r ss s .
-
r as e .

—F o xy L ck s —F e h e ing Sw i t ch e
o . r s n s .

THE s e cr e t of cont e nt for most wom e n i s

not p e rfe ction b t c h ange T h e y c an not
,
u .

e v e n b e s a tisfi e d w it h t h e ir looks long a t a

tim e ;but Ma ry Q u e e n of H e arts as we ll as

,

S cots must dra w a n a ubur n wi g o v e r h e r l u x

,

urions tre ss e s d a rk an d sm e l ling of viol e ts for

, ,

w h ic h r e g al h a ir e d E li za b e t h would h a v e gi v e n
-

t h e ruffs o ut of h e r b e st go wns a n d h e r r e cip e ,

for y e llo w st arc h wit h t h e m Th e pre tty .

“

M iss Va v asour wh o c h a ng e d h e r c h ignon c

,
”
v

e y morn ing w it h h e
r costum e was a typ e of
r
,

t h e fickl e b e a uti e s of t h e d ay wh o a r e a l ways ,

b e tte r s atisfi e d wit h so m e ot h e r wom a n s styl e -

’

t h an t h e ir o w Wom e n Of in t e llig e nce s e n d

n .
 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

urge nt r e qu es ts for som e t h ing to c h an ge th e

color of t h e ir h a ir , e it h e r to m ak e t h e front
locks m a tc h t h e C h at e l a in e bra id or to bl e a c h ,

it outrig h t F a ir blond e s w h os e s nny locks

.
,
u

h a v e b e e n t h e ir prid e find w it h dism ay t h a t

,

t h is infa ntil e tinge w h ic h m ak e s a wom a n look

,

so young an d c h arming is d e e p e ning i nto m a ,

—
ture as h bro wn a s h ad e wit h no pre stige or
-

a tt r a ctio n w h a t e v e r I n t h e ir e x act e y e s i t is
.

mortifying to we a r a blond e braid s e v e ral d e

gre e s lig h te r t h an t h e cro wn tres se s T h e s e .

l ast are gro wing a n d const antly c h an ge w h ile

, ,

t h e e nds k e e p t h e ir e a rly ting e Ve ry f e w .

lig h t h a ir e d p e opl e p ass from yout h to middl e

-

a e w it h out s u c h a c h ang e B ut u nl e ss t h e
g .
,

d i ff e r e nc e is v e ry sta rtling i t m ay b e m a d e ,

agr e e a bl e by skillfully d r e ssing t h e h air .

L ig h t or v a ri e d h a ir s h ould b e crimp e d or
wa v e d w h e n i ts tints w ill a pp e ar lik e t h e pl ay
,

o f lig h t a n d S h a d e C ontr ary to all write rs on

.

t h is point I cont e nd t h a t crimping do e s not

,

n e c e ss a rily inj ur e t h e h air I f it is kill e d .

p ull e d o u t by t h e roots or brok e n by frizzing,

260 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PERS
-
.

slid e s or br aid e d i n an d out of a loop of t h ic k

,

cord 3 bit of t h in p ap e r fold e d ov e r t h e crimp

, ,

a n d t h e pinc h ing iro n us e d wit h s a fe ty e v e ry

-

d a y provid e d t h e h air is not p u l l e d too tig h t

,

in br aiding i t Th e co u ntry m e t h od w h e re
.
,

f is e ur s irons a e unkno wn is to l ay t h e h e ad
r
’
r
,

on a t abl e a d s e t a h ot smoot h ing iro n o n

,
n -

t h e wov e n lock — a n awk ward but e ffici e nt

proc e ss I t is not good to put t h e h a ir up o n

.

m e t al pins or h air pins ov e rn ig h t for t wo e a

-
r

s n s : t h e p e rspir a tio
o O f t h e h e a d w ill rustn

t h e pins ins e nsibl y so t h a t t h e v wi ll cut t h e

, ,

h ir ; a d t h e cont a ct of iro wit h t h e sul

a n n

l m a s gi v e n out by h a ir during sl e e p
p ro u s
g
t e nds to d a rk e n a n d r e nd e r t h e color d ispl e s a

ing R ubb e r crimping pins f st e n e d by a

.
-
,
a

rubb e r c atc h ar e a l at e i n v e ntion a n d a gre at

, ,

improv e m e nt But a loop of t h ick e l astic

.

cord i s b e tt e r t h a n an y t h ing Th e h air is .

w ov e n i n a n d out as on a h a ir pin t h e e l astic -

,

h olds i t w h e n t h e fing e rs a e wit h drawn a n d r ,

it is pl e as an te r to sl e e p i t h an h alf a doz e n n

stiff pins I kno w mo e t h a n o e piqu nt lit

. r n a ‘
 BED INSULA TORS . 26 1

t le l ady w h os e n aturally wa ving tr e ss e s a e

”
r

t h e a dmir a t ion of h e r fri e nds by t h is simpl e

m e ans ;an d as t h e proc e ss h as gon e o n for

y e ars wit h out l e ss e ning t h e fl o w of ru ffl e d
h air it m ust b e conc e d e d t h a t crimping do e s
,

not al ways h urt it I ro n h a ir pins h urt t h e

.
-

h e ad more t h a n a ge n e ra tion of f is e urs Th e r .

l at e st accus ation aga ins t t h e m is t h at t h e y

draw Off t h e h e alt h y e l e ctricity of t h e h e ad '

a n d to a g e n e r a tio w h ic h compl a ins of pa

n

r al s i s fro m using st e e l p e ns an d us e s p at e nt
y ,

gl ass insul ators for t h e l e gs of its b e dst e ads ,

t h is wil l se e m no fri volous c h arg e Th e pat .

e n t insul a to s a e a f ct
r r T h e ir se is d vise d
a . u a

by m e dica l m e n for all n e uralgic r h e um atic , ,

a n d sl e e pl e ss pe opl e an d o n e of t h e l a ge st
,
r

gl ass firms i Ne w Y ork m ak e s t h e ir m a n u

n

f actur e a sp e ci alty Th e p at e n t a n d p e rfe ct

.

h air pin is not y e t in v e nt e d R ubb e r pins ar e

-
.

clumsy i f h a rml e ss but t h e r e a r e g il t h ai pins

'

-
,
r

m a d e of a y e llo w composition m e t a l w h ic h r e a

pl e as ante r to u se t h a n commo n on e s n d v e ry ,
a

b e co m ing i b lond h a i D k h i e d p e opl e

n e r . ar -
a r
26 2 T HE U GLY GIRL PA PERS
-
.

must stick to t h e rubb e r pins or at l e ast se e ,

t h at t h e ir bl a ck on e s a e we ll j ap ann e d so r
,
as

not to cut t h e ir locks .

N o w to giv e a n Opinion about t h e c h ang e

,

o f h a ir we m ust kno w som e t h ing of its n a t

,

u r e an d w h a t colors it Wis e m e n s ay t h a t
"

, .

l ig h t h a i r is o wing to bund nc e of sulp h ur

an a a

i n t h e syst e m a n d d a rk h a ir to a e xc e ss of
,
n

iron S o if w e comb lig h t o e d locks w it h

. r r

l e ad combs for a long tim e t h e l e a d a cts o ,

n

t h e sul p h ur e t e d h ydrog e n e volv e d by t h e h a ir

an d d a k e ns it
r I f we a n n e utr ali ze t h e iro n
. c

i n a n y way a contr a ry e ffe ct will b e obt ain e d

,
.

T o do t h is work a t t h e d a k h air pr e cis e ly as

,
r

if it we r e a ink spot to b e t ak e n out Th e

n -
.

skin s h ould not suffe r a d t o p e e n t t h is oil

,
n ~
r v
,

it c are f lly along t h e p a rting e dg e s a d cro wn

u , ,
n

of t h e h e ad w iping t h e oil f r om t h e h ir wit h

,
a

a soft clot h O x a lic a cid strong an d h ot is

.
, ,

t h e b e st t h ing to t ak e out spots of ink m ad e

w it h i on an d we m ay try t h is w it h t h e h a i
r
,
r .

T o a pply t h is or a y Of t h e pre p a ra tions

,
n

n a m e d o n e s h ould b e in undre ss we a ring o t

, ,
n
26 4 T HE UGLY GIRL PA PE RS .

c austic solutions an d sit i n t h e ir b alconi e s i n

,

t h e sun all d ay bl e ac h ing it ;a d y e t a not h e r

,
n

d ay t h a t t h e s a m e r ays mig h t tur n it y e llo w

, .

P e r h aps t h e y g ain e d b v t h e ir folly i n o e way n

w h at t h e y lost i n a not h e r for suc h a n airing ,

a n d sunning w ould b e n e fit t h e h e alt h of a n

y
wom an A p aste of bisulp h a t e of m agn e si a
.

an d lim e is v e ry e ff e ctu a l for bl e a c h ing t h e

h air ;but it m ust b e u s e d wit h gr e at c a utio n

n o t to burn h a ir skin a n d b a ins tog e t h e r
, ,
r .

Th e mom e nt i t b e gins s e riously to att a ck t h e

skin i t s h ould b e was h e d off i n t h r e e wat e rs ,

wit h l e mon j ic e or vi n e g ar i n t h e l ast o n e to

u

n e utraliz e t h e alk ali T h e s e p ast e s are r e c o m

.

m e n d e d to turn ash color e d h air lig h t To -

.

bl e ac h d ark h air is a long an d t e dious proc e ss ,

an d suc h an utt e r pi e c e of fool e ry t h a t I do

not c ar e to r e count t h e dir e ctions for it Th e .

d e sire to c h ang e th e color of t h e h a ir c an only

b e j ustifi e d w h e n i t is of a d ull a n d sickly a p
a a n e a d t h is is b e st m e nd e d by impro
n v
p e r c ,

i ng t h e ge n e r al h e alt h H ai r c an not b e .

glossy ric h colore d an d t h ick unl e ss t h e b e d

,
-
,
 T O FRESHE N S WI TC HES . 65

ily vigor is w h a t it S h o u ld b e I nd e e d h air is

.
,

o n e of t h e sur e st ind e x e s to t h e st a t e of h e alt h .

S corc h e d an d foxy locks ar e a Sign of n e gl e ct

a n d of b ad s e cr e tions Brus h ing r e me di e s t h e
.

first condition h ygie n e t h e n e xt But a mong

,
'

t h e v ari e ti e s of tre atm e nt sp e ci ally a ppropri

a t e to r e stor a tio n of t h e h a ir sulp h ur ,

apor v

b at h s must onc e mor e b e m e ntion e d D os e s .

of sulp h ur t ak e n i Do th e b oys fas h ion we e k

,
n
’

ly w it h mol ass e s wil l b e of s e rvic e in k e e ping

, ,
.

t h e blood pur e an d i n tim e w ill affe ct t h e

,

h air ; but t h is po we rf l ag e n t s h ould n o t b e

u

u s e d w it h out a dvic e of a p h ysici an an d t h e ,

dos e s h ould b e al ways follo we d by simpl e pur

at i e s lik e musta rd s e e d figs or prun e s e a t e n
v -
g , , , ,

fre e ly C h lorin e s a n d c h lorid e s e sp e cifics

. ar

for b l e ac h ing h a ir but t h e y turn it gray or

,

w h it e an d t h e y e llo w ting e is dy e d a fte r ward

, .

S ulp h urous a ppl ic a tions a r e t h e s afe st if c o m ,

mon c aution is us e d not to t ak e cold aft e r

wa rd or to br e a t h e an y fum e s fro m t h e m .

S witc h e s t h at h a v e lost fr e s h n e ss m ay b e
v e ry m uc h improv e d by dipping t h e m int o
26 6 T HE UGLY GIRL PAPERS
-
.

common am mon i a w it h out dilution H al f a .

pint is e noug h for t h e purpos e Th e life an d

.

color of t h e h ai r is r e v i e d as if i t we r e j u st
v

cut fro m t h e h e ad T h is dipping s h ould b e r e

.

at e d onc e in t h r e e m o nt h s to fr e e t h e s w itc h
p e »

fro m d ust as we ll as to insur e s afe ty from

,

p ar asiti c form a tions Th e subj e ct of color

.

ing t h e h air wi l l b e S po k e n of i n anot h e r

c h apt e r .
26 3 T HE UGLY G R I L PA PE RS .

h air wit h d e cid e d warmt h of c h e e ks or pu r ,

p l e
-
bl a ck r e fl e t s of t h e t r e ss e s w it h S p anis h
crimson or r at h e r t h e burning ros e of tropic
,

blood s e e n t h roug h smoot h skin O cc asio n al

.

ly t h e r e com e s a n e xciting discord a m inor ,

str a i n O f color t h at ffe cts o e lik e subtl e

a n

music suc h as t h e finding of d a rk e y e s a n d

'

gold e n h a ir or cl e a r brilli a nt blu e e y e s i n a

, ,

gypsy fa c e ; but i t is impossi b l e to compos e

h e ads i n r e ality wit h a n y s a tisfying r e sults as
y et
. W e h a v e y e t to l e a r n h o w to work fro m

t h e insid e out w h ic h i s t h e only tru e m e t h od

,

wit h h um an mod e ling .

A ll t h a t c an b e s a id o n t h i s point h o we v e r
'

, ,

w ill not m ak e t h e e d h air e d girl o n e w h it l e ss

r -

ard e nt in h e r d e sir e to se e h e r locks of d ark e r

s h ad e t h a t t h e y m ay b e l e ss conspicuous or
, ,

k e e p t h e d ark h air e d wom an from t h e cov e te d

-

v ision of brig h t locks an d b l a ck e y e s I t is

.

us e l e ss to t alk about t h e d ang e rs of t h e proc

e ss
,
or h int t h a t orpim e nt an d r e algar ar e
d e a dly poisons . I f e v e ry h a ir h a d to tur n
in to a living sn ak e w h il e u nd e rgoing th e
 B L AC! H A IR DYE
-
. 26 9

c h ang e it would h ardly d aunt t h is co urage ous

,

v a nity Th e b e st to b e h op e d from a y f ar
.
‘

t h e r e nlig h t e n m e n t is t h at t h e y will r e nounc e

t h e s e a cti v e poisons for som e t h ing comp a a r

t i e ly h a rml e ss
v D e Tas t e all r e ad e rs will b e
.
,

in te r e st e d in t h e s e cre ts of th e toil e t and t h e

,

sig h t of sci e nc e turn e d coiffe u r .

I t is comp ar ati v e ly a simpl e m att e r to d ye

h air bl ack S ulp h ur is o n e of t h e constitu e n ts
.

Of h air w h ic h e x h al e s i t consta ntly i n t h e

,

form of sulp h ure t e d h vd ro ge n fortun at e ly of ,

t h e we ak e st sort or i t would b e intol e r a bl e

,
.

W h e n we t wit h a solution of c e rt a in m e t als ,

t h e action of t h is gas t u rns t h e h a ir bl a ck .

L e ad combs o we t h e i r e ffici e ncy to t h is c aus e .

Th e l e a d w h ic h rubs on t h e h a ir is d ark e n e d
by t h e gas but t h e tra c e of l e ad a t e ac h
,

comb i ng i s so slig h t t h a t t h e op e ra tion must

b e m any tim e s r e p e at e d b e for e it t ak e s e ffe ct .

Bu t l e ad coloring w h e t h e r a ppli e d by combs

-
,

or by t h e p ast e of lit h a ge is a sl o w poison

r
, ,

not s e ldom c a using p aralysis an d e v e n d e at h

,
.

Th e absorption of l e ad into t h e syst e m a t an y

2 70 T HE UGLY GI RL PAPERS
-
.

p art is d ange rous b ut t re bly SO w h e n appli e d

,

so clos e ly to t h e bra in Th e tint gi v e n b y

.

t h is m e ans as w e ll as t h a t dy e d w it h n itr a t e
,

of silv e r is unn atur al gre e nis h an d rusty in

, , ,

t h e lig h t n e e di g contin u al r e p e tition to a p

,
n

p e ar d e c e nt .

O ri e nt als a r e in t h e h a bit of d y e ing t h e i r

h air a n d b e a rds t h e d e e p j e tty bl ack w h ic h

t h e y a dmir e if n a tur e h a v e not gi v e n t h e m
,

t h e d e sir e d d e pt h of color F or t h is purpos e

.

Turk s a n d E gypti ans u se a t h ic k sol ution of

n at v e Iron o r e in pyrogallic aci d w h ic h giv e s
i
,

t h e bl a ck e st a n d most u nimp e ac h abl e color .

~

Th e Pe rsi a n s pr e f e r blu e bl a ck a d u se indigo

-
,
n

to prod u c e it E urop e an h a ir d ye i s u se a se
.
-

l u t i o n of iron wit h h ydrosulp h at e of a mmoni a

,

to d e v e lop an d fix t h e color b ut t h e odor is ,

o bj e ction abl e D y e s n e e d to b e a ppli e d onc e

.

a we e k to k e e p t h e color i vid an d it is we ll
v
,

to touc h t h e p a rtin gs t wic e a s ofte n wit h a

fi n e comb dipp e d i n t h e d y e a s t h e h a ir al ,

ways s h o ws t h e n atur al color as f ast as it

gro ws from t h e roots .
27 2 T HE UGLY GI RL P APERS
-
.

b le for e y e bro ws l as h e s an d w h isk e rs It

, , .

must b e us e d w it h e xc e e ding c ar e h o we v e r , ,

for it st ains t h e ski n as we ll as t h e h air I f .

a ppli e d w it h a fi n e toot h comb dipp e d in t h e

-

liquid combing t h e e nds first ,an d c e asing j ust

,

b e for e t h e ski n is r e ac h e d t h e d y e w ill prob

,

a bly t ak e by m e ans of c apill ary a ttr actio n

“ ”
,

wit h out aff e cting t h e f a c e C a utious u se of

.

t h is pr e p ar ation o n t h e b r o ws an d l as h e s gi v e s
v e ry pl e asing r e sults w h e n t h e s e a e m uc h r

p al e r t h a n t h e h a ir T h e y s h ould b e first
.

c a re fully oil e d an d th e oil wip e d Off t h e h air

, ,

w h ic h is t h e n touc h e d w it h a fi n e s abl e p e ncil .

F ort un at e ly bl e ac h ing an d dy e ing ar e bot h

,

suc h t e dious proc e ss e s t h a t t h is circumst anc e

a lon e w ill k e e p m any p e rsons from submitting

to t h e i r bond age O nc e a ppli e d t h e d ye b e

.
,

com e s a n e c e ssity muc h h ard e r to l e a v e off

,

t h an to b e gin as t h e E nglis h D r Sc o ff e n
,
. r

s ays wh o is a ut h ority for m os t s u gge st i o u s in

’

t h is c h apte r O e c a n not bl a m e t h os e pe
. n r

sons wh o brus h t h e roots of t h e h a ir or for e

h e ad a n d n e ck wit h a mb e r l a v e nd e r t o dis
 TRANSIEN T DYES . 273

g u is e t h e ir p al e u nsig h tly app e ar an c e an d a

, ,

touc h of t h e s am e liquid on w h it e e y e bro ws

do e s no h arm W al n ut b ark st e e p e d a we e k
.
,

in C ologn e giv e s a d ye t h a t is tr ansi e nt bu t

, ,

e a sily a ppli e d w it h a brus h e a c h d ay a n d h as

,

inst ant e ffe ct I t t ak e s a d ay or t wo to bl e ac h

.

h a ir an d h ours to color i t e it h e r bl ack or ye l

,

l o w ;a n d t h e work h as to b e don e ov e r mont h

by mont h in a fas h io n t h at brings th e victi m
t o spe e d y r e p e nt anc e of h e r folly
‘
.
27 6 INDEX .

B l c h d by t h D w n 9 7
ea e e a
Bl n d H i h w t M k 68 Bl n d H i p i n 26 1
.
,

o e a r, o o a e, : o e a r- s,
Bl n d A d v i c
.

o es 20 e to,
Bl d M i ld C id f I i t b l 240 ;D w c l A i Bl d T n i c
, .

oo er or rr a e, e - oo r as a oo
, o ,
97
Bl m —A l m nd 6 5 ; D c y f 14 6
.

oo o e a o
B d y N b i li y f t h 16 5
.
, ,

o o t o e,
B n p t P i n c P u l in —h L v l y F t 16 2
, .

o a ar e , r es s a e o
B c 2 30 ; S h u l d B c 3 8
er e oo , .

ra es, o er ra e s ,
B id — M t c h in g 25 8
.

ra s, a
B i n B i m w k t k F d 102 ; t h B i n D p nd n t t h
.
,

ra ra ot a es oo e ra e e on e
B dy 16 7 ; t h B in m D li c t t h n t h S t m c h 256
, e
o e ra o re e a e a e o a
B d T u 9 9 100
, , .

re a r e,
B k f t 9 8 ; C h i t i n B k f t 98
.
, ,
’
re a as s , r s a a s re a as
B h — O fi w 55 ; h w t S c u
re a t an F g n t 56
‘

ens e, o o e
,

re a
.

ra ra
B u t —D v l p m n t f t h 233 ; I mp v in g t h 234
.
,
s e e o e o e, ro e, .

C l i t h n i c 38
a s e s,
C m ph f t h F 172
.

a or or e ace ,
C i g f S u h n W m n 44
.

a rr a e o t er e
C c i ll P w d 74
o o , .

as ar a e r,
C u t i n N d d 2 35
o .

a o a ee e
C z n v D C m m i t i f t h F c 73
, , .

’
a e a e s, r o s on r e a e,
k f t h T i l 134 ; R c i p f R m v i g
o

Mdm
.
, .

C l
’
e n ar t s, a a e, on s o e o e t, e e r e o n
ll T c f T b cc i t h B h 156
e

a ra e s O o a o n e re at
C hi g n n d Wi g C h n g in g 257 , .

o s an s, a
C h i ll l i R
) a ns, ali f f 190 e o r,
, .

C hi l d n — h i I i t i n 12 1 ; t h i W y 24 8 24
e .

“
re t e r rr at o s, e r a s,
C hill in i Symp t m f D i e ss 51
s a o s e as e s ,
,

C h ill I n c i pi n t C n g t i n 52
s at e e
o
es o
.

C h i t i n L k 9 6 ; h B k f t 98
o , .

’
r s a a s s, er re a as
C id M i ld f I i bl B l d 24 0
oo , .

e r, or rr t a e oo
C i g P pl h S m k t M 248
.
, .

ar s , eo e o o e oo an V ,
C i c u l i n C h m f 51
.

r at o ar o
C l n l in m n H l t h 164
.
, ,

ea e ss ea s ea
C l g ym n S n t i n f 250
.
,

er e e sa o s o
C l hin g P p 52
.
, ,

o t a e r,
C ifi
o
'

A t f t h 138
u e,
,

r s o
.

e,
C l d L m 81
.

'

o ea
C l g n h w t M k 58
, .

o o o o a e,
C l h w t P cu F hn
e , .

o o r, o f 60 o ro re re s e ss o
C m d n Bl c k W m h w t R m v 75
.
,
o e o e s, o r a or s, o o e o e,
C m pl xi n —h w t Acq i C l 1 3 t C l t h 17 ;P p
.

o e o o u re a e ar , o e ar e, re a
O ly 19 ; h w t P c u F in 21 ; D g f P i n t
o :
ra ti n f o r i o o ro re a e, an er o a
6 9 ;R i n w t
o s
B th f t h 71 ;B t W h f t h ,

i g th e, -
a e r as a a o r e, es as or e,
B d E ff c t
n a

74 ; (t u f re f S d Wi n d th 80 ; h C m a e s o u n an on e, t e
pl xi n R u in d by F u m f M d i c in 85 ; I i H u f t h 92 ;
o r o

e es o e e, r s es o e,
w h C m pl m i t h S i g n f 9 6 ;E ly W l k I mp v t h 9 7
e o
at ex n s e o ar ro e e,
E ff c t f S u n hi n t h 98 ; C mpl xi n I mp 2v d by T kin g a
. o ,
s

o e on e, o e s ro e a
S u lph u V p B t h 130 ; b u t C mpl xi n 19 ; C mpl x i
e s o
a o r- a s, a o o e o s, o e o n

i v T u bl t F u ll bl d d G i l 19 3 ; P u Bl d M k
r
e - oo e r s, re oo a es a
d 19 9 ;h w t D w i h D u ll 2 15 ;G i l C mpl xi n 23 1
es ro o
’
no o o re s s t a r s o e o s,
T u bl w i t h t h C mpl xi n i C l d W t h 238 ; h w 1m
ro
,

e e o e o n o
,

ea e r, o to
D t ar B i lli n t 245 ; t h 26 7
a r a , e, .
 INDEX . 2 77

C o mp N v u O pi ni n f 24 80
o se rs , a er o s o o
C n g t i n V p B t h G d f 17
,
.

o s, a o r- a oo o r,
kin g P p 9
o es
C
.

ro e r,
n —L C u f 190 ; S ft 19 1 ;R m di f d
oo
C
.
,

o r s Sh th o o se es e a se o , o , e e es r,
19 1
C p l
ot
.

D n g f 18 2
u e n ce ,
C p u l n cy T i l f 1 77 ; T u ki h B t h f 178
a er o , .

r s a s o r,
r a s o
C t b u t 105 ; G i d l m N d d t h n 105 ;S in g in g S c l
or e , ,
.

o rs e s -
a o r es o re ee e a a es
wi h C d 2 32 ; t h B t 2 3 3
, ,
’
t o rs e t s c e es
C m t i c— A t i t 8 7 G l v 89 24 5 ; C m t i c 14 0 S u l t n 144 ;
. , .

’
s ; o e s, os e a a s,
M i lk f —R
os e r
15 3 ; C m t i c m im pl y T i c k 194
, , ,

o o s e s a s a, os e s so et es a s,
t I nj u
r
C i mpin g t h A t f 83 ; d H i 258 ; C i m p in g
.

th e r o oe s n o re e a r, r
pi n 259 ; R u bb C impi n g pi n 26 0
r ,

er r - s,
C u l t h H i h w t 84 ; C u lin g F l u id 28 ; C u l in g i n 259
s, .

r e a r, o o, r r - ro s,
C u t m 98
, .

s o
C u t 80
.
,

s, .

D c E t h w 102
an e rs a o
DD nu ihn g 24 D3 in g M t h h u l d I n p c h 226
.
, ,

a c , .

t
’

g t r e ss a o er s o s e er ,
DD nw ni f Bli cDh ldi cby h5 7 97S t n d d 14 3
a
a .
er s
ea
-
e
,

t e, .
.

t r ce e ate , a ar
D pil t i 3 2 ; CA u i 2n12 b u t
e
e a o r e s, a t o s a o
, .

DD vv i cn hi f U Dn u chy g f 14 9
e es o e as e, .
,

o s re , es s o
D i t —Gf i l P 228 n w i t h H p t i c S p t 173 ; f S t u t P p l 180
e .
,

e or e rs o s e a o s, or o eo e,
f
D i g t i n—F d f Wi k 1m4 t m f 1
or r s,
oo
.

or ea
D i — C hill ines
e ase s
o
S p
,
5 E u p t i v 80 e ss s a
, .

o o r e,
D h w t 219 ; P Gi l 228 ; f F l t Fi
s , .

i 220 ; f
‘
re s s o o, o or as t e n, or r s, or a
234
DD in f GTi l 23
u re s,
re s s e s
H
3
u nd d
or
Y
.

r s, .

w 2 15 o re a e ar ,
D ink — C l in g 20 S u mm 9 2 9 3
re s s g on
oo e r,
.

DD w wlliny g tb Bu d w h209n y f l 255

r
ro
s
s ,
o o e
,

e ou ee
,

,
.

e g t s, a o o u r,

H ml 9 1 h w t A pply 91 F n ch 9 1 P i n B l u
.

Dy e- a ar e ss, o o re ers a e
b l c k 270 ; f Whi t E b w 273 ,
,

r e ye ro
D T h —f i c t hl 3H4 i C hl29 ;i df tf hG El dy 2l h T n di En b w 30 ; f
a o s
, , .

res or e a r, o r e e as es an 3e ro s, or
t ea r 71 ;
a s, 273 o r e o o s e t,
D y p p i J l u W m h v 254
s e s a, ea o
:
s o en a e,
,

.
ra .

Ea t , h o w t o , 102
A n g li u
.

”
Ea u e q e, 15 7
Ed i S n i n f
to rs, e s at o s o
.

250
Ei Gl o t, C m pl xi n 7
e o r ge , o n
,

e
.

o s, 3
EE mn mi ln BT kininign g f
o .

ot o , ra o , 15 1 .

a e a 14 5
EE xn cmi — L Dv v l p A m
ig a o
,

G il
f o e,
,

t h e , 14 7
.

d
;f to e o th e r s 23 1 or r s, 232 ; O u t - o o r, 251
E xp i n— S iGn w w h D
er
re s s o
se
is the g o f,
e
at ,
,
95
.

Whi
.

B y e b ro w ws ; ho to ro 90 a ye f o r t e , 273
Ey l h B u Ehy db w D y in w
e as es W h an d e ro s
.

e g t h e , 30 ; a s e s f o r, 8 1 :
.

T im
r
m d d e an w G r s e , 88 ; h o to ro , 91 .
27 8 INDEX .

EEyy BD i gkh E i n g S u g wi h C l g
es
e s,
r
ar
t,
12 2
at M k th 45 ar t o o ne on a es e, 2 .

.
,

F c —M n f S f n i g
a e ea s o M ki o C mp i
t h e 19 ; a n g-u p t h e , 6 1 ; o
te n
‘
os
t i n
o O li v
s f o r t h e , 73 ; d
e -O i l a n P p i nf
Ta r f o r t h e , 120 ; a re ar a t
Whi n in g te P
t h e , 145 : P u l ic f
as t e s a n d o t e s o r t h e , 17 2
o or

F Scc h —l G i ld F l u Ih id bl
a es
oo
o o
-
; Bl c hi n g
f o r r r t a e , 120
’
ea D u l l T h in
s
, 19
8 ; ,

24 3
.

, 2 18
g e
F u l C mm n
a ts,
r s
o 96
, .

FF l i—n C n v T l k G P i bi nf H h n S n din g
o , .

of a ii l
’
ee gs, e er a s, e o re e r, 230 .

ee t f t h e 4 0 , 16 2 ; o s t o
at e o w h w o f, e ta 40 ; o to
K p F E l i c P in fu l w l l i n g
ee the ee t as t , 42 ;

t h e , 16 2 ; O i l f o r t e , 1 6 3
a
.

w B h S e o f, 4 2 ; h o to
,

at e
h
—E c n P p C i g f wh
.

F
iu u i e re t e s s o f t h e , 38 ; t h e th e ,
W lkin g
ro er ar r a e o en

N
a wh
42 ;
u r s n i g , 23 6
,F i n Fi g u m u b C f
at a f e re st e, 225 ; a re o t h e , a t e r

Fi u Fl
.

g re s , at , 234
Fi n A S h
.

e rt s , c ool o f, 110
Fi n T
ge r h i n i b l e s , 124
.

F i n — ip C l i n g h
e r -t s, o or o f t e , 66
.

Fl h w R d u c
g
m f R du ci n g 17 L
.

es ho to e B
e , 93 ; i gS
an t n ste or e 5 ; OS
i ng Fi h R Pu d ,
c~ at t h e ate o f a o n a e e k , 18 2
F lk — ld i n w i h h C h ild n
.

s, O er, to J o t t e re , 24 9
F d W k D i g i n B in w k k
o

b u
.

oo fo r ea e s t o , 14 ; ra - or t a e s , 102 ; a o t o u r,
209
F m —R n v in O u w d B u y i h Hum n
.

or e o at g th e t a r , 12 ; e a t n t e a 86
F c kl — G l d n ;h w R m v
re es e , 78 o to e o e , 79
, .

F c kl W h
o .

re e a s , 1 14
F n hD
.

re c
ye , 9 1
F izzin g H i
r t he a r , 25 9
.

F izzin g n g
r t
- o s , 25 9 .
.

G l f
ar g e M or th e o n th 157
n i n Lw n d
.
,

Ge e r at o a o -
to e 24 7
GG ii dld l mLi n Nn d d h n C
r e, a
,

e ,
1 05 .
, .

t s , 105
t o r se
G iBl —hinP hy i c l Ed u c i
r
r s
es o re
s a
D
wh n G i l
ee
A e
wk w d 7
Ex c i f at o n
a
o f, 22 4 ;
.

e
f o r , 22 8 ;
r s ar e ar ,
22
23 2
at g f o r , 22 7 1) et f o r , 2 28 ; re s s er se o r,
C Y u ng
G l v —C m i c C l i i n
a re o f D li c c y
o Y u ng
23 5 ; e , a
:
d ue o , 235 .

et 8 9 -d t
g , 24 3
G c
o e s,
Sc I n pi Gi l w i h ; W m
os , ; o s e .

ra e t he w e r e t o f, 38 ; h o to s re a r t 226 i n o
e n, S ign o f, 234
,

G u m R c ip D i d
.

s, a e e fo r se as e ,
160 .

H i B l ck
a r— a D C h fow w C u l i v C hil
to ye , 13 ; are o t h e , 22 ; h o to t at e
di u 23 ;
’
W has e s , 24 : M n
,
b i n in g x u i n
ea s o f O ta lu wh nr a t , 26 ; e
e
t o C u t , 26 ; G m nM h d
s,
et o C u l i n Fl u d
o f Tre a t i n g t h e , 2 7 ; r g i fo r
f
e r a
t h e , 28 ; O i l o r t h e , 28 ;Dy T R
h o w to Sup
re at e d 31 er
G wh
fl u o u s , 3 2 ; ro t
es,
w
o f, 33 ; h o B u h
to r s H i P wd
t h e , 33 ;
,
a r o e rs,

6 7 ;to D kn
ar e th e, 6 8 ; h o w
P v n in m k Bl n d 6 ; F h i n bl
to a e o e,
f m T u ni n
S
8 as o a e
G r ay , 2 ; Pr e pa a t
8 i f e t t h e e a -a i r ro r g
H i G y P p i n R in w C l
i o n o r r e g
the a r r a , 82 ; r e ar a t o fo r e sto r g the o o r o f t h e,

8 2 ;h o w to k p H i C i mp d C i i Cu l
i l e d , 8 3 ;h o to r t h e , 84 ;

;D Am u G wh
ee a r r e or

B h
at e r, 8 7 r e ss e r s , w h
at e r , 8 9 : a m
as t o St i u la t e t h e ro t
2 80 INDEX .

MM i l A d v t g f L i in g R m
rr o r s ,
o es, 33
an a es o n oo s wi t h , 221 .

M n g u L dy M y 7
.

o ta a ar 5
M n z L l R ci p f , .
,

o te o a, e e o 154
M h h u ld In p c D u gh D i n g 226
.
, ,

t h er
’
ot e r, 3 s o s e a te r s re s s
M hot
M uhG l f
W d e rs - P ci i ,
a or t o , 10 9 : re s r pt on for F ee bl 211
e,
, .

o t arg e r t h e , 15 7
M u —y B k Li n f m
i
, .

’
r ra s oo es ro 19 6
M u ic n h u l d S t u dy
, , .

s l n ti u e n ce o f, 148 ;Wo me s o 252

M
r
Bi t 8 1 , .

usq mto es, .

N il —w iP l i 16h3in g t h 88 ;h w t g i v F in C l t th 112 ;I
a s
o ii
o s e, o o e a e o or o e, n
g
k Whi t
, .

N
a n so o 2 12 e,
N ck P p t i n f Whi t n i n g t h 145
e a
,

re a ra o
.

or e e,
N dl h wPt h ld G c fu l ly 137
ee
,

e, o o o a, ra e
.

NN i g hb W m u l li n g24 t P i c 9 6
e o rs,
’
our
, o e es,
,

.
.

e rv e s , 7 o an s ,
N D vi t u f P 15 t t i n C u f 13 ; N v u d S n gu i n P p l
.

er o s ro s ra o , re o r, er o s an a e eo e,
e o r,

N t N i g h t C p 25
e s vs
.

- a s,
NN u lRg i d nS u lphfu h V p B t h f
. .

e ra a, r a o r- a o r,
o se , e 2 44 e ss o t e,
N M c hi n 123
o se - a e , a,
.

N u in g C f t h F i g u ft 236
.

rs , a re o e re a e r, .

O il f
- th H i
or 8 ; f M c 187 e a r 2 o a e,
Oil s, S w t 15 3 ee
.

O in t m n t O l i v 1 9 5
, .

e e,
O li v O i l d T f 2 t h F c 120 , .

e- an ar r e a e,
Ex c i 5 1
o

O t d
.

u - oor er se , .

P ddin g iw t 2353
a a a ns
P int d h d 9
a an
,

o e r,
, .

P i n t in g t C mpl xi n D n g f 6 9
a e o e
.

o a er
P l n N t h n d S u h n 78
o .
, ,

a e ess, or er an t er
P ll S hi n in g 7 7 o .
,
a o r,
Pp
a e r as aP v n t t i v g i n t C hi l l i n 52 re
,

e
.

a e a a s e ss ,
P i k d B l c n i i 98
.

a s an a o e s, n,
P i P p i n g f 23 8 0
ar t e s , re ar o r,
.

P i —n h w t Q u i t 2 9 0 f m
as s o s, o e o u r,
.

P Sh u ld d Ai m R v i n g H i f m th
o

as t e f o r ; o e rs an s, or e o a rs ro e
F c 127 ;f Wh i t n in g t h A m 128 ; f V n u 139 ; S u l p h u
a e, or e e r s, o e s, r,

P t i ll G y f P u i fyi n g t h B t h 156
as e s, ra or r e re a
P5 1 B z i n
, .
,

16 0
'

P fu m — f t h P n c 4 9 ;h w A bi 1n W2 m n P43 fu m t h m
1 6 a s
, , .

re s e e, o ra o e er e e
l v 13 1 P fu m 14 1 ;f h B dy 4 ;L t 1 ; f S p in g
er e o e a
se es, er e s, or t e o os o r
1 49 ; f h B h 159
, , ,

t at
P pi t i n P p t i n f P fu 93 ; C u f O d f t h
e rs ra
o
o
e
- re
,

a ra
.

o or ro se, re or or o e,
1 59 ; D R 88 u l t i n g f m S dd n l y C h ckin g 203
an e rs es ro u e e
PP hy i cc hl C u l uu U g n t 16 , .

’
e t ra r s a r a, .

s at 7 re r e
Phy i c l Ed u c t i n f G i l 224
.
,

s a a o o r s, .
 INDE X .

P i n P— c c
o, ra ti e at t h e , 229
P impl
a
R ci p R m v Di
.

es a e e to e o e, 74 are s e as e 239
W h
.
,
'

P
i n i pl e - a s , 114
S u h n w d ;A l m nd M xi c n
.

’
m
I o a d e s , 25 ; o t e r oo 29 84 ;o e a 14 1
P wd e r, 6 2 ; Ch l k
a 63 C c i ll B h in g as a r
,

a, 7 4 , 24 2 ; at
,

94
, .

PP wpd i nd P inP fu P pi i n
o
o e r an
,

a t , 59 .
, .

a r at o fo r ro se e rs ra t o 93
P n c P fu m f
re
re s e e, er e o t h e, 49 .
, .

P m W m
ri an s ,
’
11
P i n c ip l S c h l W d
e, o
a s o f o o s, a
.

or t o , 1 09
P phyl c i c F l u i d
r
a t 24 1
.

Pro
i n Cu f N v
.
,

ro st rat o , re or er ou s, 13 .

Q u een o f E n gl nd u D i ill d W f h T i l t l
a , th e, se s st e at e r or er o e , 69 o

RR cc mi—G cT ifn i n gL in 37 A n i u
a es ra e o th e at , t q e, 22 6 .

e
’
a er s ra 70
R c ip — W mD y P fu m
.
,

fo r ar 1 a s,92 er e, 139, 14 0, 4 1, 14 2
Rh u m i m G d
e es
at s oo fo r 170
.

RR m MAi dk n g L i i g w i h M i
e , .
,

oo s, va ta es o f n n , t r ro rs, 221 .

l o f, 6 6
R u g —Ti n
o s e s,
e D F n ch
t s o f,
.

64 ; e vo u x re 00
Ru m i n l
o , .

s a, Or e ta , 138 .

S l l w—n ho
e s s, wt R m v o e o e , 92
a
S lv L
o
T il
.

e i p, 114 ; o e t , 114
a
Sc l p P p n
.

a D
re ar a t i o s f o r ry , 25
S c fu u
,

G d
l o s A fi e ct i o n s ,
'

1 oo f o r , 20
.

B h Sub i u
ro .

Se a - a t s , a s t t t e f o r , 55
S hh LTi nin
.

oe- g, 1 6 4
i h
.

o e s, g t, 41
S h u ldA m—B c S h u ld w ADc uvii c S l p i n SShh u lu dl d
o er r a e s , 38 ho
.

to q re P to g
e f o r St i fi
o e rs , 4 0 a as e
s an d
'

fo r r o e rs , 90 ; e e r s , 103
Sin S u d n Di f w S in
o
T i n i ng
.

g e rs a n d t e ts, et E
o r , 15 ; h o
ge r s a t , 102 ;
o f , 15 1 ; S in in S c l w i h C
g g
SS ikinu —i I n i Aci np i nf h
a es t S n gi n g
o r s e t s o ff , 232 ; i , 25 1
ra
.

t at o , ce t g t h e , 2 14
P c ip i n f h Cu R gh
.

rr t a t o s o t e , 20 ; re s r t o o r t e , 79 ; re f o r
S ki n f m Y c h inf R u h S u mm I i i n
o u

t , 79 ; g , 80 ; rr t a t o s o f t h e ,
g
s ro a er
I I
o

81 ; n mm i n h
fla at o o mp v i n
t e , S5 ; f o r w Pro g t h e , 113 ; h o to
l
on g th e F hnre s B n Cl n
e s s o f t h e , 152 : ra R c ip e a s e s t h e , 17 1
ro
e
fo r S
C n mp i
u nb u n d
r e F kl d
an d
t o n o n t h e , 19 5
C u f R u h ;E f c f
re c e , 19 2 ; a se o o g , 19 3
a e
f e t o
o su
S l p— NR md Md yu h T m p
ee the e e fo r e N u mb f H u
e r , 254 ; P er o
.

o rs t o , 254 ; 8 0 '

pl e w ho ee c , 25 5
SS l ip u —d Q u l i yv H
oa s a t ,
C h p 1 1 C b li c
o f 16 0 ; d o n o t u s e e a , 6 ; ar o
.

, 238 .

t e, R ese r e o u r o u r s o f , 14 9
o
S uh WmnC i f
t e rn o e , a r r a g e o , 44
.

o
S u h nw d P m d
.

o t er oo o a e , 29
pi i b i
.

S r ts, h o w t o O t a n l l n f a i l n g , 10 1
i
S in w R m v I g bl 1
.

ta s, h o to e o e nk o r V e e ta e , 12
SS iillppl dS mS kil n C u f
t , a
a l , 16 9
r e o r , 18
.
.

t
S c ki n e
w Of n Ch n
.
,

to g , ho te to a g e , 163
S m ch M i n i n H l hy C ndi i n f h
s .

to a , to a ta a ea t o t o o t e , 18 .
2 82 INDEX .

S u P d plT hiGn Pw Spl u F d f

to t an
wh y e o
H in e ro
eo e,
to
oo
t 102
o r, 16 ; a t to S u P pl
to t eo e, 93

S u dy V
t Cl a e to o n o s e, 2 29
. .

H i
, .

Su pe r fl u o u s a r, 32
S u n Wi
rge o a se, 180
.

SS ww ii mmi n Sch l N v u W m n h u l d g
, .

g
-
oo er o s o e s o o t o , 251
c h F h n in g
, .

t e s, re s e , 26 5 .

T an - W a sh , 1 4 1
.

Ta r , 1 95
P— pl
Te a, e o e w h o
.

tro , 248 D i nk S n gr
T h
eet Dc fo r Cl n in
e a i n g , 56 ; W h ea s g o f t h e , 57 ; as f o r t h e , 14 3
.

T mp
e
mp
e r, h o w t o
S ign W n g H l h
S l p R m dy
o o t h e t h e , 20 9 ;
o f
ee th e e e f o r, 254 ;l l e a t h e n
.

e rs a ro e a t , 254
Th i l
.

e a t r c a s , Dy e s f o r , 34
T hi u P pl F d
.

n a n d St o t eo e, oo f o r , 16
T in B w n
.

, 9
t, a ro 1
T b cc B h R m dy
.

o a o i n th e re a t , e e f o r , 156
Ti W
o l e t— An i u T i l A
a t e r , 58 , 1 4 0 ; T il
t q e et rt s , 6 0 the o e t a Pr o f e s
.

In u n c Lu x u i u Lu x u y A i ic
o
i n
s o 87 ; fl e e of a r o s , 88 ; r o f t h e , 88 ; rt st
C C f T il
.

a t t h e , 1 16 ; a r e s o f t h e 1 36 ; r a t o f t h e 15 2 ; o e t “3 1 18 18 a n d
PAg D i il l d P in m n
.

W W
, ,

as t e s , 1 6 1 st e a t e r f o r t h e , 16 9 la o e and
b
re e a l e , 2 15
T h ch R ci p
.

oot a e, e e f o r t h e , 155
T t h W h 158
.

oo - as
T w l B t h 54 , .

o e s, a
T i n i n g Rec m i 7 0
.
,
’
ra a er s,
T w z R m n 126
.
,

ee e rs , o a
T yp h id F v m t i m C u d b y H i g h L i v i n g
.
,

o e e r so e es a se , 126 .

Ulc 80 e r s,
U n f mi n in T i t 108
e
.

e ra s, .

V n i t i Di fl t 109
a e s,
‘

e re n
M d m 152
.
,

V t i
e s r s, a a e . .

V i t ri o l , \V a s h o f, 76 .

W k fu l n
a e Si g n f Il l H l t h 255
e ss a o -
ea
W lki n in R l i n t H l h 4 6
.
,

a e at o o ea t
W m D R g
c ip f 9 2
.
,

ar ay s , e es o r,

W h — f V i t i l 7 6 t S i m l t t h G w t h f H i 90
.

as o r o B d o t u a e e ro o a r, a an
1 11 ; f T F c kl P impl r d Bl t c h
an , 114 f T th .

re
:
e s, an e s, ; or
:

ee
,

0 1
H n —d 14 3 ; f S u n b u d S ki n 24 2 ; G ly c i n 24 2 f t h T i es
o o
,

a r rn e er e,
s,
D i t il lin g 16 8 ; D i il l d W t
o

W t T il t
, .

a er o e , s , st e a er or e o ~

‘ 16 9
et,
W k h w th h u l d W k 253
.

ea o e, s o or
Wi f S n
.
, ,
’
e, a 2 18 e at o r s ,
W i Bl n d f Th t i l 68 ;Wi g d C h i g
.

g s, o e, Chor i
g g 572 e a r ca s , s an n on s , an n
W i lli N P B u ty 48
.
,

ea
B u t i fu l 9 ; W m n A t i t 87 88
s, o n

W m n —h B u in
.
. .
, ,
’
t b e ss e ea o a s r s s,
H l hy W m 1 l 7 t h L v li t W m n f F
o a er s o
150 ;T i l
.
,

a ea t an l e o e es o a o r an c e , r a s
Pl 5i n 185h ; h w AHd mim ly W m 22n W mm kn H V l ul f Ai ng t h
o :
,

f o a a o a o e o a ca n a e erse re e .

t M
,

21 ; w
’
bla e, i 5 ; a an re s n a, o a s a e e

W ld 225 ; W m n R u l 240 ;W m n L k
or ,
a dN v 24 7 o a
’
s e, o a
’
s oo s an er e s,