Naturally Derived, Mild,

Safe and Functional

 NATURALLY DERIVED, MILD,
METHYL GLUCOSIDE BASIC CHEMISTRY
SAFE AND FUNCTIONAL
Methyl glucoside is a unique building block based on the
stabilization of glucose via methylation. It was developed
to overcome the inherent problems associated with other
sugar backbones, such as instability with regard to reactivity
and a tendency toward carbonization and anhydrization.

In the process of methylating a simple monosaccharide

such as glucose, anhydrization is limited to only one oxygen
bridge. In addition, by introducing a methyl group on
the terminal carbonyl, there is guaranteed retention of the
free hydroxyl groups, thus enabling further derivatization.

The remaining hydroxyl groups have excellent hydrophilic

properties in the subsequent derivatives.

This stabilized methyl glucoside backbone, based on

a readily renewable and natural resource, as well as
the availability of several reactive sites in the form of
hydroxyl groups, allows development of numerous
multifunctional derivatives, meeting the requirements of
being naturally derived, mild, safe and functional.
 Glucamate™ Natural Thickeners: Discover new options for thickening personal care
products. Versatile, nonionic thickeners derived from renewable resources, methyl
glucoside derivatives feature excellent safety and mildness profiles, along with broad
compatibility with other formulation ingredients. Experience enhanced elegance and
cost-effective performance, naturally.

STRUCTURE OF GLUCAMATE™ THICKENERS FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF

GLUCAMATE™ THICKENERS
Glucamate™ thickeners can be classified as Gemini surfactants.
• Derived from Natural, Renewable Resources
Gemini surfactants are surfactant molecules possessing more than one
• Reduces Surfactant Irritation
hydrophobic tail and hydrophilic head group. These surfactants typically
• Efficient Thickening at Low Use Levels
have better surface-active properties than corresponding conventional
• Synergistic Thickening with Salt and Betaines
surfactants of equal chain length.
• Light Emollient Afterfeel

SUGGESTED APPLICATIONS FOR

GLUCAMATE™ THICKENERS
• Body Washes/Shower Gels
• Mild Shampoos (such as Baby and Color-treated)
Above is the schematic representation of a Gemini surfactant. For
• Facial Cleansers
the Glucamate thickeners, the spacer represents the methyl glucoside
• Facial Scrubs
portion of the molecule, the ion is the ethylene oxide group, and the tail
• Foaming Hand Cleansers
is the oleic group.
• Liquid Hand Soaps
• Hair Mousse
Structure of Glucamate™ Thickeners • Feminine Hygiene Products

Where R=H or C17H33CO, w+x+y+z=120

Glucamate™ DOE-120 Thickener

INCI Name: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate

Glucamate™ LT Thickener
INCI Name: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate (and) Propylene Glycol
(and) Water

Glucamate™ VLT Thickener

INCI Name: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate (and) Propanediol
 Glucamate™ DOE-120 Thickener Reduces
Irritation of Surfactant Systems
MILDNESS FIGURE 2: Glucamate™ DOE-120 Thickener Reduces Irritation of
Critical micelle concentration (CMC) is the concentration above which Surfactant Systems

monomeric surfactant molecules aggregate to form micelles. Hydrophobic 4

Control
interaction opposed by electrostatic repulsion among the ionic head groups
3 Glucamate™

Irritancy Score
drives the process of micellization. The value of a surfactant’s CMC DOE-120 Thickener

decreases with an increase in the hydrophobic chain length of the molecule. 2

Irritant
Irritation is caused by adsorption of free monomer (surfactant molecules 1

Non-Irritant
in solution). Therefore, the lower the CMC, the milder the surfactant.
0
1 5 10 25 50
Glucamate thickeners have remarkably low CMC values. As shown in Dilution
Figure 1, Glucamate™ DOE-120 thickener has a CMC value of 0.4 g/L
Figure 3 below shows the same formulation thickened with Glucamate
and Glucamate™ VLT thickener has a CMC value of 0.17 g/L. This is com-
VLT thickener and tested by an independent laboratory* for irritancy.
pared to harsh surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium
As the graph shows, Glucamate VLT thickener is exceptional as an
laureth sulfate (SLES, 2-mole), which both have CMC values of 1.59 g/L.
irritation mitigation agent in surfactant systems.
FIGURE 1: Critical
Critical Micelle
MicelleConcentration
Concentrationof Glucamate™
Thickeners
of Glucamate ™

vs. Surfactants FIGURE 3: Glucamate™ VLT Thickener Reduces Irritation of

Thickeners vs. Surfactants
Surfactant Systems
1.60
1.59 1.59 4
Control
1.20
Glucamate™
CMC (g/L)

Irritancy Score 3
VLT Thickener
0.80
2

Irritant
0.40
0.40
0.17 1

Non-Irritant
0
Glucamate™ Glucamate™ VLT SLES-2 SLS 0
DOE-120 Thickener Thickener 1 5 10 25 50
Dilution
Glucamate thickeners also lower the CMC of surfactant systems. When
Glucamate thickeners significantly reduce the irritancy score of common
added to a formulation containing surfactant, Glucamate™ thickeners
surfactant systems, meaning
Glucamate ™ Glucamate thickeners not only provide effi-
VLT Thickener Reduces
efficiently associate with free surfactant molecules, decreasing the
cient, consistentIrritation of Surfactant
and elegant Systems
rheology, but also enhanced mildness for
surfactant concentration required to form micelles. By lowering the CMC
sensitive
4 personal care formulations.
of a surfactant system, Glucamate thickeners decrease the irritancy of the Control
system, reducing the skin and eye irritation caused by these surfactants. 3 Glucamate™ VLT
Irritancy Score

EFFICIENT THICKENING AT LOW USE LEVELS

Thickener
This makes Glucamate thickeners ideal for shampoo and body wash form-
Current
2 cleansing formulations are frequently based on three or more
ulations. Figure 2 shows the results of independent laboratory testing*
Irritant
surfactants, used to deliver the most desirable consumer properties such
of a basic SLES/SLS/Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) surfactant system 1
as rich lather, improved mildness, and superior sensory benefits.
containing Glucamate DOE-120 thickener. The horizontal red line on the
Non-Irritant

0
graph indicates the point where a surfactant system is considered an Experiments 1were conducted
5 to evaluate
10 the25 performance
50 of Glucamate
“irritant.” As the figure shows, Glucamate DOE-120 thickener is able to Dilution
thickeners in both sulfate and sulfate-free cleansing formulations (Tables I,
reduce the irritation of the surfactant system, making it non-irritating to II). In these formulations, even at low thickener concentrations, viscosity is
the skin, both upon initial application as well as throughout the dilution easily achieved (Figures 4, 5).
and rinsing process.

* In Vitro Irritection Assay performed by In Vitro International

 TABLE I: Sulfate Formula Figure 6 shows the performance of Glucamate thickeners in a cleansing
formulation (Table III) containing sodium laureth sulfate (2-mole), sodium
Ingredient Weight % (as is)
lauryl sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine with a target viscosity of
Deionized Water q.s.
10,000 – 12,000 mPa∙s.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (2-mole, 28% active) 40.00
TABLE III: Cleansing Formulation
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35% TS, 30% 11.50
active minimum)
Ingredient Weight % (as is)
Thickener q.s.
Deionized Water q.s.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (2-mole, 28% active) 25.00

TABLE II: Sulfate-Free Formula
Sodium
50,000 Lauryl Sulfate (30% active) 20.00
Glucamate™
Ingredient Weight % (as is) DOE-120 Thickener
Cocamidopropyl
40,000 Betaine (35% TS, 30% 10.00

Viscosity (mPa∙s)
Deionized Water q.s. active minimum) Glucamate™
30,000 VLT Thickener
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (40% TS) 40.00 Thickener q.s.
4 20,000
Control
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35% TS, 30% 11.50
3 minimum) Glucamate™ 10,000
Irritancy Score

active VLT Thickener Glucamate thickeners demonstrate improved thickening performance at

0
Ammonium
2 Cocoyl Isethionate (30% TS) 4.76 lower concentration
2.00%
than
2.50%
other commercial
3.00% 3.50%
thickeners.
4.00%
Irritant

Thickener q.s. Active Thickener (wt% TS)

1 FIGURE 6: Thickening Performance of Various Commercial Thickeners
to Reach Viscosity 10,000–12,000 mPa·s
Non-Irritant

0
1 5 10 25 50 12
FIGURE 4: Thickening Efficiency of Glucamate™ Thickeners in % Active
Level of Added Thickener

Dilution 10
Sulfate Formulation % As Supplied
8
50,000
Glucamate™ 6
DOE-120 Thickener
40,000
Viscosity (mPa∙s)

4
Glucamate™
30,000 VLT Thickener 2

20,000 0
Glucamate™ Glucamate™ PEG-200 PEG-150
10,000 DOE-120 Thickener VLT Thickener Hydrogenated Pentaerythrityl
Glycerol Palmate Tetrastearate (and)
(and) PEG-7 Glyceryl PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric
0 Cocoate Glycerides (and) Water
0.25% 0.50% 0.75% 1.00%
Active Thickener (wt%)

FIGURE 5: Thickening Efficiency of Glucamate™ Thickeners in

Sulfate-Free Formulation

50,000
Glucamate™
DOE-120 Thickener
40,000
Viscosity (mPa∙s)

Glucamate™
30,000 VLT Thickener

20,000

10,000

0
2.00% 2.50% 3.00% 3.50% 4.00%
Active Thickener (wt%)

The three oleate moieties of Glucamate™ LT and Glucamate VLT thickeners

50,000
interact with surfactants to form a mesh-like, complex network that
™
Glucamate
40,000
synergistically buildsThickener
DOE-120 viscosity and offers additional thickening efficiency
Viscosity (mPa∙s)

Glucamate™
when
30,000 compared to other di-substituted associative thickeners.
VLT Thickener

20,000

10,000

0
 50,000
Glucamate™
DOE-120 Thickener
40,000

Viscosity (mPa∙s)
SYNERGISTIC THICKENING WITH SALT SYNERGISTIC THICKENING WITH BETAINES Glucamate™
30,000 VLT Thickener
Sodium chloride is used extensively in cleansing formulations, often as the Betaines are commonly used in cleansing applications for their foam
20,000
primary thickener or in combination with other thickeners. Drawbacks of enhancing properties. Glucamate DOE-120 thickener also shows a syner-
10,000
using high levels of salt include increased risk of irritation as well as the gistic viscosity response when used in combination with cocamidopropyl
risk of “crashing” the system by overshooting the salt curve. betaine0(CAPB) (Figure 8).
2.00% 2.50% 3.00% 3.50% 4.00%
Active Thickener (wt% TS)
Glucamate thickeners, when used in combination with salt, provide a FIGURE 8: Glucamate DOE-120 Thickener: Synergy with Betaine
™

synergistic viscosity response, thus making them cost-effective thickeners 5000

while at the same time improving formulation mildness. Table IV shows a
4000

Viscosity (mPa∙s)
basic surfactant formulation. A salt curve using Glucamate thickeners was
3000
created using this basic formulation chassis.
2000
TABLE IV: Salt Synergy in a Simple Cleansing Formulation
1000
Ingredient Weight % (as is)
0
Deionized Water q.s. 4 wt% TS CAPB 5 wt% Glucamate™ 3 wt% TS CAPB + 1 wt%
DOE-120 Thickener Glucamate™ DOE-120
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (2-mole, 28% active) 40.00 Thickener

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35% TS, 30% 6.57 TABLE V: Synergistic Thickening with Betaines in a
active minimum) Cleansing Formulation
50,000
Glucamate™
Glucamate™ Thickener q.s.
40,000
DOE-120 Thickener Ingredient Weight % (as is)
Viscosity (mPa∙s)

Thickener q.s. Glucamate™

30,000 Deionized Water q.s.
VLT Thickener

20,000
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (2-mole, 28% active) 53.60
Figure 7 depicts the effect of various salt concentrations on the viscosity of
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35% TS, 30% 6.57
the10,000
surfactant system in Table IV with and without 2.5 wt% TS Glucamate active minimum)
thickener.
0 The synergistic effect on viscosity is readily apparent. 50,000
2.00% 2.50% 3.00% 3.50% 4.00% Thickener q.s. Glucamate™
Active Thickener (wt% TS) DOE-120 Thickener
FIGURE 7: Salt Curve With and Without Glucamate™ Thickeners 40,000
Viscosity (mPa∙s)

Control
Glucamate™
In 30,000 Formula above
the system with 2.5 wt% TS V), using 1 wt% TS Glucamate
(Table DOE-120
VLT Thickener
90,000 Glucamate™ DOE-120 Thickener
Control
80,000 thickener increased
20,000 Formula with 2.5the
wt%viscosity
TS more than 8 times vs. using betaine
Formula with 2.5
Glucamate ™
LT Thickener
70,000 wt% TS Glucamate™ alone (Figure 8).
Viscosity (mPa·s)

DOE-120 Thickener 10,000 Formula with 2.5 wt% TS

60,000
Glucamate™ VLT Thickener
Formula with 2.5
50,000 wt% TS Glucamate™
Glucamate
0 LT and Glucamate VLT thickeners demonstrated an even
LT Thickener
2.00% 2.50% 3.00% 3.50% 4.00%
40,000 higher thickening synergy
Activewith betaines
Thickener vs.TS)
(wt% using betaines alone (Figure 9).
30,000 Formula with 2.5
wt% TS Glucamate™
20,000 VLT Thickener FIGURE 9: Glucamate™ LT and VLT Thickeners: Synergy with Betaine
10,000
120,000
0 Glucamate™
97,600 LT Thickener
0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 1.5 2.0 100,000
Viscosity (mPa∙s)

% NaCl 80,000 Glucamate™

VLT Thickener
60,000

40,000 32,400 22,900

14,300
20,000
540 540
0
4 wt% TS CAPB 5 wt% TS 3 wt% TS CAPB
Glucamate™ + 1 wt% TS
Thickener Glucamate™ Thickener
 Cost-Efficiency and More: With high thickening efficiency, Glucamate thickeners are
cost-effective and provide additional benefits such as a reduction in the irritation associated
with surfactants and broad compatibility. They also contribute to luxurious sensory
properties through the retention of foaming properties and a light, emollient afterfeel.

SAFE AND EASY TO USE CONCLUSION

Glucamate thickeners are nontoxic and have a low potential for eye In today’s crowded and highly competitive personal care market, it
and skin irritation. Their chemical structures preclude the possibility of is differentiated performance and claims that set products apart. The
nitrosamine contamination and they are not considered to be nitrosamine proliferation of product choices is not only limited to the consumer.
potentiators. Cosmetic chemists have also been exposed to a multitude of products.

Glucamate DOE-120 thickener can readily be dissolved in the aqueous Today’s formulator must have the justification for any ingredient based
portion of a surfactant-based formulation. For best results, Glucamate on true functionality and overall value added to the formulation.
DOE-120 thickener should be dissolved at 70°C. Glucamate thickeners are multifunctional products which support the
Glucamate LT and VLT thickeners are liquid products which are cold important consumer claims of safety, inherent mildness, and elegance in
processable, meaning that no heat or additional energy is required to use. They contribute to luxurious sensory properties through the retention
dissolve the material or create the association needed for thickening. of lather and a light, emollient afterfeel. Further, Glucamate thickeners
However, for optimal performance and shorter mixing times, Glucamate are perfect choices for satisfying the trend towards the use of materials
LT and VLT thickener can be added at 70°C. derived from natural, renewable resources.

Additionally, ease of use, thickening efficiency and synergistic behavior

LIGHT, EMOLLIENT AFTERFEEL
with surfactants and salt enables a cost-effective formulating solution,
Incorporating Glucamate thickeners results in products with improved making Glucamate thickeners the natural choice.
sensory benefits. The natural, oleate chemistry of Glucamate thickeners
enhances application, improves product spreadability and provides an
emollient afterfeel. For product details, more information, samples and starting
formulations visit www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Further, the three-dimensional structure of Glucamate LT and VLT
thickeners interacts with surfactants to form a complex network that
actually contains less water and “breaks” easily during rub in. This
phenomenon improves the feel of liquid soaps, body washes, shower gels
and other liquid cleansers.
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