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Vilnius In Your Pocket

Vilnius In Your Pocket

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The only guide to Vilnius, capital of Lithuania, you will ever need.
The only guide to Vilnius, capital of Lithuania, you will ever need.

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Published by: In Your Pocket City Guides on Mar 26, 2010
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12/03/2014

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Vilnius

N°114 - €0.58 / 2Lt
inyourpocket.com
December 2014 - April 2015
Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
December 2014 - April 2015 3 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
Arriving & Getting Around 5
Where to get off and how to stay afloat
City Basics 11
Some simple differences worth knowing
History 13
A mind-boggling millennium
Culture & Events 15
Art, photography and the rest
Where to eat 22
The capital’s kitchens in all their glory
Nightlife 44
Where to party in Vilnius
What to see 56
A fully comprehensive guide
Jewish Vilnius 68
Trakai 69
Lithuania’s former capital uncovered
Where to stay 71
Campsites and presidential suites for all
Mail & Phones 79
Keeping in touch
Shopping 80
Lifestyle Directory 86
Sport, Leisure & Health 90
Business Directory 92
Maps & Index
Street index 93
City centre map 94
City map 96
Country map 97
© Vilnius Tourism & Convention Bureau www.vilnius-tourism.lt
4 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 5 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Arriving & Getting Around Foreword
There is no getting away from the fact that winter in
Vilnius can be cold. Bitterly so. That does not for one
minute however also mean that winter in Vilnius is
bleak. Far from it, in fact. Indeed, having first arrived in
Vilnius many, many years ago in what was the middle
of a particularly cold winter, we have to admit to having
something of a soft spot for the city when it’s covered
in snow. The already picture-postcard perfect Old Town
in particular never looks better than when given a crisp,
white frame, with the crunch of snow underfoot provid-
ing the soundtrack for all sorts of winter escapades. And
be honest: there is plenty to do in Vilnius at this time of
year. The cellar restaurants, bars and pubs of the Old
Town provide warm relief from the chill outside, and
many locals insist that the shorter the days, the longer
the parties at night.
Of course, the biggest event of the winter in Lithua-
nia this year is the country waving goodbye to the litas,
and adopting the euro. The big switch takes place/took
place (delete according to when you are reading this)
on January 1st, with both currencies in dual circulation
for two weeks afterwards. If you are still holding litas af-
ter that: don’t panic. You can change then inside a bank
until the end of June.
Whatever currency you are spending in Vilnius this
winter, enjoy the city.
Publisher
Vilnius In Your Pocket
Bernardinų 9 - 4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76, fax (+370) 5 212 29 82
vilnius@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1392-0057
©UAB “VIYP”
Printed by UAB “Lietuvos ryto” spaustuvė
Published three times per year
Print run 15,000
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp
Contributors Howard Jarvis, Martin Kitson
Design Vaida Kniūkštienė
Researcher Vaida Kursevičiūtė
Cover Photo © Arūnas Stankevičius
Sales & Circulation
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
General Manager Rūta Klimavičiūtė
Accounting VšĮ “ACORDO”
Sales Manager Tel. (+370) 610 468 64.
This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides are available
for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, the Vilnius In Your
Pocket office and other outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as
well as online at www.inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of
Vilnius In Your Pocket are also available in many hotels.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2015; some photos,
LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų
9-4,Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
COVER STORY
Vilnius, the winter picture-postcard version, with the
rich colours of the Old Town given a white frame of
snow. Photo by Arūnas Stankevičius.
CZECH
REPUBLIC
SOUTH
AFRICA
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
POLAND
ROMANIA
HUNGARY
SERBIA BOSNIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
FYR MACEDONIA
BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO
ITALY
CROATIA
SLOVENIA
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
UKRAINE
GEORGIA
BELARUS
LITHUANIA
LATVIA
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
GERMANY
BELGIUM
NETHERLANDS
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
ABOUT IYP
Not content with publishing more than
100 guides to cities across three conti-
nents, In Your Pocket is currently prepa-
ring a new round of expansion for 2015.
New cities due to be pocketed include
Rotterdam in the Netherlands, while
some old favourites, such as Budapest
in Hungary and the Russian exclave of
Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot.
And there is a brand new digital plat-
form to look forward to.
In order to make sure you keep up with
all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on
Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpoc-
ket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/
inyourpocket).
Arriving in and getting around Vilnius are fairly simple
afairs once you understand the basics. Accordingly,
travelling further afeld is relatively painless if you’re
prepared to do your research beforehand and use some
sign language when using buses and trains. Car rental is
relatively cheap by Western standards.
ARRIVING IN VILNIUS
The three main points of arrival in Vilnius offer very differ-
ent experiences indeed, making your first few minutes in
the city anything from a pleasure to a pain. Improvements
are taking place all the time. Print copies of Vilnius In Your
Pocket can be bought from kiosks inside the airport, bus
and train stations for just €0.58. Alternatively, buy one on-
line before you leave by clicking here. If you’re coming into
the city by public transport, see the latest information on
our public transport pages, here.
BY BUS
Vilnius’ bus station (autobusų stotis) is located less than
1km south of Old Town in a less than salubrious, albeit
perfectly safe area. Most facilities are located inside one
large grey building and include kiosks and shops for
snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards,
downstairs toilets (€0.29) and ATMs. For 24-hour currency
exchange, use the Medicinos bank across the street and
just to the right of the train station. A bagažinė for left lug-
gage is located outside at the far end of the platforms.
Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by
turning left on exiting the station and walking down the
hill (Sodų). Countless buses, minibuses and trolleybuses
can be found in the immediate area, all going off in differ-
ent directions around the city and none of them offering a
lot of help for people who don’t speak Lithuanian. Among
the useful services going through the city centre are trol-
leybus Nº2 and bus Nº1G. Buy a ticket from the driver for
€1.01 and off you go. Taxis are parked up in a number of
places. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave. Expect
to pay €6 or even more for a short trip to Old Town. Calling
one in advance is the best option.
BY PLANE
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uos-
tas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if you’re land-
ing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities are
quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting your
luggage enter through the electric sliding doors into the
Arrivals Hall, an experience which is not unlike stepping
into the ticket hall of 19th century provincial train station.
There you’ll find a kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and
prepaid mobile phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange of-
fices and a small tourist information kiosk. Toilets are to the
left, and car rental companies to the right.
Getting to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the ve-
hicles parked outside the arrivals terminal will cost about
€15 or possibly considerably more depending on the
cheek of the driver. Calling one in advance will cost a lot
less. If you don’t know how to do it yourself ask the people
in the tourist information kiosk to order one for you. If
you’re travelling to the city centre and want to save a
small fortune, take public transport. Bus Nº88 goes to
the Old Town, Nº1 goes to the train station and rapid
bus Nº3G to Lukiškių Aikštė (Juozo Tumo-Vaižganto
stop) and north over the river past the Radisson Blu Hotel
Lietuva. The bus stop is to the left of the taxi stand, and
timetables are posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the
driver for €1.01 and off you go. Alternatively, hop on a
train and in less than 10 minutes be at the train station in
the centre of the city. Buy a ticket on board for just €0.72.
The airport train station can be found along the road
outside the main exit and on the left. Trains leave every
hour or so from around 06:00 until 21:30, with a journey
time of just seven minutes.
BY TRAIN
The train station (geležinkelio stotis) is fairly large by local
standards. Find kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, ciga-
rettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scattered in and
around the building, toilets downstairs for €0.29, ATM’s
and a 24-hour Medicinos bank outside to the left for
changing money.
Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by
going straight ahead on exiting the station and walking
down the hill (Sodų). The train station is just across the
street from the bus station. See By bus for more informa-
tion about getting to the centre by public transport.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Served by a network of city-owned buses and trolleybus-
es, the capital’s public transport services begin at around
05:00 and continue through the day before stopping not
much later than 23:00. Vilnius does not yet have a nightbus
service except on New Year’s Eve and on a couple of other
special occassions. Getting about the city is cheap, and
relatively easy once you have the hang of the basics. (Being
able to buy tickets directly from bus and trolleybus drivers
helps). Note that public transport can be very crowded dur-
ing peak hours, and that pickpockets are not uncommon
on the busiest routes (especially those to and from the bus
station).
BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES
All buses and trolleybuses in Vilnius are owned and op-
erated by the Municipality. Paper tickets for single jour-
neys are no longer available from kiosks and can only be
bought from the driver, with the fare currently priced at
€1.01 for a single journey on one vehicle. Unless you plan
on spending a lot of time using public transport whilst in
Vilnius, this relatively simple system should be more than
adequate although it’s worth mentioning the alternative,
namely the Vilniečio Kortelė, an electronic ticket available
for €1.16 from kiosks around town. Technically a brilliant
idea, the Vilniečio Kortelė is a bit confusing in reality due
to the variety of credits its possible to add to it. The two
most useful top-up options, available at kiosks around
the city, are to top up with either journeys lasting for up
6 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 7 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around
TRAIN SCHEDULE
From Vilnius To Vilnius
Dep. Arr. City Dep. Arr.
05:40 07:31 IGNALINA 04:21 06:00
08:13 09:59 IGNALINA 05:10 06:33
11:44 13:30 IGNALINA 09:16 11:01
15:31 17:17 IGNALINA 12:47 14:32
16:35
1
17:55 IGNALINA 16:34 18:20
18:39 20:19 IGNALINA 18:56 20:34
21:00 22:31 IGNALINA 20:24
1
21:48
03:49 11:09 KALININGRAD 13:44 18:45
11:52 19:40 KALININGRAD 16:56 22:28
04:48
1
05:55 KAUNAS 04:56
3
06:30
04:56 06:38 KAUNAS 05:33 07:20
06:20 07:37 KAUNAS 06:23
1
07:38
07:30 08:49 KAUNAS 07:05 08:45
08:47 10:25 KAUNAS 08:09 09:23
09:45 10:50 KAUNAS 09:06 10:40
10:25 11:38 KAUNAS 10:55 12:42
11:13 12:29 KAUNAS 12:08 13:20
11:40 13:16 KAUNAS 13:40 15:15
12:25 13:30 KAUNAS 14:40 15:49
14:05 15:20 KAUNAS 15:30 17:12
14:50 16:27 KAUNAS 16:32 17:38
15:57 17:04 KAUNAS 17:05 18:16
16:30 17:35 KAUNAS 17:20 19:05
16:45 18:27 KAUNAS 17:55 19:11
17:30 18:39 KAUNAS 18:41 19:50
17:52 19:20 KAUNAS 19:07 20:48
18:30 20:12 KAUNAS 19:44 20:56
19:52 21:09 KAUNAS 20:19 21:45
20:57
2
22:28 KAUNAS 21:28 22:44
06:45 11:25 KLAIPĖDA 06:50 11:37
11:30 15:10 KLAIPĖDA 12:15 15:55
17:40 22:20 KLAIPĖDA 17:05 21:57
16:55 09:01 MOSCOW 18:55 08:00
07:00 10:30 MINSK 11:10 12:57
14:58 18:45 MINSK 19:50 21:20
18:14 21:44 MINSK 08:40 10:10
19:50 10:28 ST. PETERSBURG 19:40 08:06
14:20 16:54 ŠIAULIAI 17:22 20:00
04:34 05:10 TRAKAI 05:25 06:05
05:16
1
05:52 TRAKAI 06:07
1
06:47
06:10 06:46 TRAKAI 07:12 07:52
TAXIS
Despite recent creeping taxi (taksi) prices, travelling by
taxi in Vilnius remains relatively cheap, especially if you
order one in advance by telephone. In an attempt to
stem the flow of moonlighters, all taxis in Lithuania are
now instantly recognisable by their compulsory yellow
number plates, although this should in no way lure
anyone into believing this has changed the free-market
spirit of the average taksistas (taxi driver). Taxi drivers in
Vilnius are no different to taxi drivers anywhere else, and
will in general take any opportunity to relieve clients of
more money than they need to. The standard rule is to
make sure the meter is running and set to the correct
tariff (generally 1 most of the time and 2 after midnight)
before setting off. Arguments with taxi drivers are futile,
and there are several stories floating around of drunken
foreigners being assaulted when arguing about the fare.
Finally, be extremely cautious of hotels who offer deals
with individual taxi companies as they’re usually set at
extortionate rates. Prices listed below are for standard
daytime journeys within the city limits.
SMART TAXI
Call 1820 or (+370) 5 200 08 20 for a taxi. You can also
use the website (at which you can pre-book cars) but it
is currently only in Lithuanian.Qtel. 1820/(+370) 5 200
08 20, www.smarttaxi.lt. €0.69/km.
STANDART TAXIQtel. (+370) 5 240 00 04, www.
standart-taksi.lt. €0.66/km.
to 30 minutes at €0.64 a trip or up to 60 minutes for €0.93.
These can then be used easily by holding the card against
the yellow machine on all buses and trolleybuses which au-
tomatically take the fare off the card. Alternatively, put any
amount you choose on the card and select which length
journey you want when using the machine on board the ve-
hicle. Other options are available for tickets valid from one to
270 days, although we recommend you get a local to help
you if choosing one of these. You can find out all you need
to know about schedules online at www.vilniustransport.lt
and more about the Vilniečio Kortelė at www.vilniusticket.lt.
MINIBUSES
The great will they/won’t they story of 2013 in Vilnius has
been the ongoing saga of the city’s private minibuses.
Originally scrapped completely in July, the Municipality
did a partial U-turn on the issue in September, and private
minbuses reappeared on the city’s streets early in Novem-
ber. However, not everything is as it was before. Whereas
in the old days the private minibuses would stop wherever
a passenger wanted, they are now limited to standard
public transport stops. What’s more, not all of the private
minibuses have been allowed to make a comeback: as we
go to press, fourteen routes had been restored. Tickets for
the minibuses can be bought on board from the driver
(€1.01), while the Vilniečio Kortelė is also accepted.
LONG-DISTANCE BUSES
All long-distance national and international buses leave
from Vilnius’ main bus station (autobusų stotis). Although
tickets for many journeys can be bought directly from the
driver it’s worth getting one in advance at no extra cost.
The ticket office for national bus services is located inside
the waiting room. International tickets can be bought from
several different outlets found scattered around the build-
ing as well as from a number of travel agencies in the city.
Backpackers and other travellers on a budget from Western
Europe might be surprised to learn that bus travel in Lithu-
ania is more expensive than using the train.
BUS STATION (AUTOBUSŲ STOTIS) QB-6, Sodų
22, tel. 1661, www.toks.lt. Open 04:00 - 24:00. Ticket of-
fce open 06:00 - 19:00, Fri 06:00 - 19:30. JA
ECOLINES The Lithuanian outfit of the large European
network provides all the usual transport services including
cheap bus journeys in the region and further afield. Other
things include insurance, visas, tourism services and bus
rental.QB-6, Geležinkelio 15, tel. (+370) 5 213 33 00, www.
ecolines.net. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:30.
Also at Vytauto 23, Kaunas, tel. (+370) 37 20 20 22. A
LUX EXPRESSQB-6, Sodų 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 233 66
66, www.luxexpress.eu. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama). JA
TRAINS
Vilnius’ main train station (geležinkelio stotis) handles ser-
vices to a number of destinations within Lithuania as well
as international trains to Belarus, Russia and Latvia. Most
tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the right of
the main entrance. Tickets for international trains can also
be purchased from a small office inside and immediately
to the left of the main entrance. The general rule is that
tickets stop being sold 10 minutes before a train is due to
depart. With the exception of some international services,
tickets can be bought on board trains from the conductor
for which a €1.45 commission is charged.
07:40 08:17 TRAKAI 08:37 09:17
13:30 14:06 TRAKAI 14:21 15:01
15:35 16:11 TRAKAI 16:45 17:25
18:20 18:57 TRAKAI 19:33 20:13
20:28 21:05 TRAKAI 21:30 22:10
1
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri.
2
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun.
3
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat.
Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to
press and subject to change during the lifetime of this
guide. More information at www.litrail.lt
Valid until March 28, 2015.
TOURIST INFORMATION
VILNIUS TOURIST INFORMATION (VILNIAUS
TURIZMO INFORMACIJOS CENTRAS IR
KONFERENCIJŲ BIURAS) Tour bookings for groups
and individuals, audio guides, Vilnius City Card, maps,
tourist-related publications, cultural events (www.
vilnius-events.lt), taxi and accommodation booking.
English-, German-, Polish- and Russian-speaking staff.
See their extensive website for more information.QB-2,
Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370) 5 262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262
81 69, tic@vilnius.lt, www.vilnius-tourism.lt. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Also at Didžioji 31 (Town Hall), tel.
(+370) 5 262 64 70. Šventaragio 2 (Cathedral Square),
Rodūnios Kelias 2 -1 (Vilnius International Airport),
tel. (+370) 5 230 68 41. JAW
TRAIN STATION (GELEŽINKELIO STOTIS) QB-6,
Geležinkelio 16, tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt.
Ticket ofce open 24hrs. J
AIRPORT
VILNIUS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (TARPTAU-
TINIS VILNIAUS ORO UOSTAS) Vilnius International
Airport, situated approximately 5km south of the city cen-
tre, is small and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and bar
can be found above the main entrance for fond farewells
and devilishly expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of
Duty Free shops and cafés are located the other side of cus-
toms control. Free wireless internet is available throughout
the airport. To get there by bus (see Public transport for
information on tickets), take Nº3G from Lukiškių Aikštė
(Juozo Tumo-Vaižganto stop) or Nº1 from the train sta-
tion, or use the shuttle train service that departs from the
train station every 30 minutes between 06:30 and 19:30.
Buy a ticket on board the train for just €0.72. A taxi from
Old Town currently costs around €15 using a hotel-booked
firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get
a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company.
By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5
266 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make the
trip for just €5.QRodūnios Kelias 2, tel. (+370) 612 444
42, www.vno.lt. Open 24hrs.
Cheap and efficient, public transport in Vilnius is generally reliable
8 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 9 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around
PARKING
Street parking in Vilnius is divided into four colour-cod-
ed zones, namely blue, red, yellow and green. Colour-
coded parking meters eat coins and regurgitate a little
printed ticket. Times when payments are required are
marked on blue signs using Roman numerals to rep-
resent days, and numbers to represent times. A sign
displaying I-V 8-22 for example means you must pay
to park on Monday (I) to Friday (V) from 08:00 to 22:00.
Signs can be hidden or placed miles away from the
parking space in question. Be careful. A pay-by-SMS
system is also in operation, although in order to use it
you must have a local SIM card. Buy a bar-coded wind-
screen sticker and register it in order to use this service
if you’re planning on living in the city or staying for an
extended period of time. Keep valuables hidden at all
times, including radios if possible.
LOCAL BUS SCHEDULE
BIRŠTONAS
07:10, 09:30, 10:40, 12:35, 13:30, 14:40, 16:10, 18:10.
DRUSKININKAI
07:20, 08:40, 09:35, 10:00, 11:00, 12:10, 13:00, 14:20,
15:20, 15:40, 16:15, 17:10, 18:20, 18:40, 20:30.
KAUNAS
05:45, 06:20, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15, 07:30, 07:45, 08:10,
08:20, 08:30, 08:45, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 10:05,
10:30, 10:45, 11:00, 11:30, 11:45, 12:10, 12:20, 12:35,
13:00, 13:30, 14:00, 14:35, 15:00, 15:10, 15:25, 16:05,
16:25, 16:45, 17:00, 17:25, 17:45, 18:00, 18:40, 19:00,
19:20, 19:45, 20:15, 21:10, 23:00.
KLAIPĖDA
06:00, 06:40, 07:50, 08:50, 10:35, 11:35, 12:00, 12:40,
13:20, 14:50, 16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30, 23:00.
NIDA
06:40.
PALANGA
06:00, 06:20, 08:50, 12:00, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30,
23:00.
PANEVĖŽYS
06:10, 06:30, 07:05, 07:50, 08:25, 09:00, 09:50, 10:20,
10:35, 11:10, 11:30, 12:00, 12:50, 13:40, 14:25, 14:50,
15:10, 15:50, 16:30, 17:00, 17:20, 17:40, 18:05, 19:20,
21:30.
ŠIAULIAI
06:30, 07:50, 09:50, 11:10, 12:00, 13:00, 14:25, 15:20,
16:05, 17:40, 19:20.
TRAKAI
07:10, 08:20, 08:55, 09:15, 09:30, 09:45, 10:40, 10:55,
12:10, 12:35, 13:10, 13:30, 14:00, 14:40, 15:00, 15:40,
16:10, 16:40, 17:00, 17:45, 18:10, 18:45, 20:00.
Valid until April 30, 2015. Not all services listed.
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. The website
at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for up-
to-date, accurate information about travelling by bus
in Lithuania.
For business
or leisure,
rent your car
with Sixt.
(Sixt has it all.
Check sixt.lt for your best deal)
For reservations: www.sixt.lt or call +37 05239 5636
AIRLINES
AIR BALTIC QRiga International Airport, tel. (+370)
5 232 92 92/(+371) 670 060 06 (for calls from abroad),
www.airbaltic.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 20:00. JA
AIR LITUANICA QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel.
(+370) 700 404 44, fax (+370) 5 203 44 93, fy@airlituanica.
com, www.airlituanica.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A
AUSTRIAN AIRLINES QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport),
tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.austrian.com. Open 09:00
- 17:00.
AVIAVILSAQC-5, Aušros Vartų 19a-1, tel. (+370) 5 230
22 00, www.aviavilsa.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
BRUSSELS AIRLINES QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport),
tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.brusselsairlines.com.
ESTONIAN AIR QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel.
(+370) 5 232 93 00/(+370) 647 000 48, vno@ticketing.
lt, www.estonian-air.com. Open 03:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
03:00 - 17:00.
FINNAIR QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5
252 50 10, www.fnnair.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
LOT QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 273 90
00/(+370) 647 000 48, vno@ticketing.lt, www.lot.com.
Open 03:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 03:00 - 17:00.
LUFTHANSA QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370)
5 232 92 92, www.lufthansa.com.
NORWEGIAN AIR SHUTTLEQRodūnios Kelias 2 (Air-
port), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.norwegian.no.
SAS SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINES QRodūnios Kelias
2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 66 38/(+370) 5 232 92 92,
www.fysas.com.
TURKISH AIRLINES QRodūnios Kelias 2-3 (Air-
port), tel. (+370) 5 219 07 25, info.lt@thy.com, www.
turkishairlines.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 -
15:00. Closed Sat.
UTAIR QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232
92 92, www.utair.ru.
WIZZAIR QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5
252 50 10, www.wizzair.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
AIRPORT TRANSFER
BALTIC TRAVEL CARS
A wide choice of quality cars and larger vehicles available for
rent, plus transfers, GPS rental and luxury limousines from a
leading local company who also specialise in general tour-
ism and entertainment activities.QI. Simonaitytės 2A-25,
tel. (+370) 671 988 88 (24hrs), info@baltictravelcars.lt,
www.baltictravelcars.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00. A
LUXTRANSFER
English-speaking drivers of very comfortable cars will look
after you superbly from arrivals hall to wherever it is in
Lithuania you are going: home, hotel, office. The cars even
have free Wifi.Qtel. (+370) 610 240 42, info@luxtransfer.
lt, www.luxtransfer.lt. Open 24hrs. A
CAR RENTAL
Offices representing all of the major international car rental
companies can be found in Vilnius alongside a few local busi-
nesses of varying standards. All types of vehicle are represented,
with many companies also offering chauffeur services. Most
major driving international licences are accepted.
AVIS QD-2, B. Radvilaitės 5a, tel. (+370) 698 448 31,
www.avis.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Also at Rodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport).
RIMAS Qtel. (+370) 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt. Open
24hrs.
SIXT QRodūnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239
56 36, www.sixt.lt. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Also at Sodų 14 (Panorama Hotel), Konstitucijos
20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva). A
DRIVING
Given that Vilnius is a relatively small city and that its
main sights can be reached either on foot or by public
transport, most visitors to the Lithuanian capital will have
little cause to worry about driving. If you do fancy explor-
ing the city (or the rest of the country) by car however, it
is worth noting that despite its reputation as possessing
the deadliest roads in the EU, driving in Lithuania is now
far safer than at any time in the country’s post-commu-
nist history. Indeed, over the past ten years the fatality
rate has fallen by an impressive 10 per cent. The rate of
fatalities per head of population does, however, remain
one of the EU’s highest, along with Poland and Greece.
As a general rule however, driving in Lithuania presents
no more hazards than you would expect to find in any
other country in the region: the poor state of some roads
will be the biggest challenge you are likely to face.
The basic rules of the Lithuanian roads are as follows:
seat belts are compulsory for all (both driver and pas-
sengers), and headlights must be used at all times of
day or night. All vehicles must be fitted with a small
fire-extinguisher and first aid kit, and you will need to
have your driving license and vehicle registration pa-
pers with you at all times. At this time of year, all cars
must also be equipped with winter tyres (an ice scraper
and a brush should also form part of your winter kit).
If hiring a car, all of these things will be provided by
the car rental company. The speed limit around town
is 50kph unless otherwise indicated. Elsewhere you can
drive at 90kph on main roads, 70kph on unpaved roads.
Note that on the country’s highways the usual speed
limit of 130kph is reduced to 100kph during the winter.
ROAD ASSISTANCE
Accidentally get in an accident? No tools? No time? Have
no fear. There are people out there who can help. Altas
Assistance is one of the few companies in Lithuania that
offers roadside assistance to those in need. With years of
experience in helping stranded and damaged vehicles,
the company is staffed with a highly qualified team who
offer mobility services throughout Lithuania for a modest
fee (currently €10.14 for their service plus work inside the
city and €21.72 for out of town assistance). Note that any
accident or incident that requires an insurance claim must
be reported to the police or your insurer won’t believe you.
ALTAS ASSISTANCEQtel. 1810, www.1810.lt. Open
24hrs.
10 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 11 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Vilnius Basics Arriving & Getting Around
INTERNATIONAL BUS
SCHEDULE
From Vilnius To Vilnius
Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.
14:30
1
06:40 BERLIN 20:30
2
14:50
14:45 07:15 BERLIN 14:30 15:50
22:30 15:00 BERLIN 21:30 08:45
14:30
3
16:45 COLOGNE 10:15
4
14:50
14:30
3
05:45 LONDON 21:30
5
14:50
10:00 17:15 PARNU 11:55 19:05
16:10 23:05 PARNU 07:50 15:00
22:30 05:05 PARNU 00:20 06:55
14:30
6
02:30 POZNAŃ 00:30
7
14:50
14:45 03:15 POZNAŃ 01:30 15:50
22:30 10:40 POZNAŃ 18:35 08:45
17:00 09:30 PRAGUE 13:30 08:15
06:30 10:50 RIGA 12:30 17:00
08:00 12:15 RIGA 17:00 21:05
10:00 14:30 RIGA 14:45 19:05
12:30 17:00 RIGA 18:15 22:15
14:15 18:15 RIGA 09:00 13:10
16:10 20:30 RIGA 10:35 15:00
18:30 22:25 RIGA 07:00 10:55
22:30 02:30 RIGA 02:55 06:55
20:15
8
11:50 ROME 15:00
9
08:40
12:30 06:15 ST. PETERSBURG 01:15 15:00
14:15 06:15 ST. PETERSBURG 20:55 10:55
16:10 10:20 ST. PETERSBURG 21:40 13:10
18:30 11:20 ST. PETERSBURG 11:55 03:00
14:30
10
19:30 STUTTGART 08:00
3
14:50
10:00 19:05 TALLINN 10:00 19:05
16:10 00:50 TALLINN 06:00 15:00
22:30 06:55 TALLINN 22:30 06:55
14:45 22:10 WARSAW 06:05 15:50
17:00 23:10 WARSAW 23:40 08:15
22:30 05:40 WARSAW 23:05 08:45
17:00 04:50 WROCLAW 18:15 08:15
Days of the week (1=Monday)
1
1 - 3 4 - 6 -,
2
1 - 3 -5 6 -,
3
3 - - 3 - - 6 -,
4
1 - - -5 - -,
5
- - -
4 - - 7,
6
1 - 3 4 - 6 -,
7
- 2 - 4 - 6 7,
8
- - - 4 5* - -,
9
1* - - -
- - 7,
10
1 - - 4 - - -. * additional 19.12.2014 – 05.01.2015
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all ser-
vices listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt
Valid until April 30, 2015.
ALCOHOL
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light,
crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and
you’re recommended to test a few before settling on a
regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the
magnificent Švyturys from Klaipėda, Utenos from Utena
and Kalnapilis from Panevėžys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius
can’t claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made
in the capital you’ll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see
Nightlife). Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger
than their Western counterparts, making the forming of the
simplest words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple
of the most lethal. In Old Town expect to pay somewhere
in the region of €1.50-3 for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka
(degtinė) is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk
with gusto at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat.
Among the more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-cen-
tury Polish-Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka
fortified with apple leaves and lime blossom, and the lo-
cal illicit firewater, samagonas, available through the right
connections. Take note that imported alcohol isn’t cheap.
Don’t go falling into the trap of thinking that because the
local stuff is giveaway everything else is too. Check prices
before a session to avoid an embarrassingly large bill at the
end of the evening. At the time of writing it was illegal to
buy alcohol in shops between 22:00 and 08:00 anywhere
in Lithuania.
BORDERS
Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia, Po-
land and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the ashes
of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that is
Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements
have as good as removed all border formalities with Latvia
and Poland, although getting in an out of Belarus and Kalin-
ingrad remains a process wrapped up in red tape for hold-
ers of most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from
the Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius, as well as
from a few travel agencies. Note, however, that short-term
visas for Kaliningrad are now available if you arrive in the
exclave by air. For more information about getting in and
out of Lithuania, see the website at www.pasienis.lt.
CRIME & SAFETY
It is not an exaggeration to say that Lithuania is one of the
safest countries to visit in Europe. While petty crime - mainly
in the form of pickpocketing - is as big a problem in this
country as anywhere else in the world, violent crime is al-
most unheard of. Even late at night you will not usually be
presented with any potential threats whilst walking around
city centres, and this goes for single women as much as for
large groups of lads. That said, you do need to keep your wits
about you, and be sure that if you go looking for trouble you
might well find it. Keep your valuables close to hand, particu-
larly on busy buses and trolleybuses, and do not leave coats
and handbags unattended in bars, pubs and clubs.
CUSTOMS
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import re-
strictions placed upon them, although they will need to
make it known if they’re arriving with more than €10,000
worth of cash. When arriving from non-EU countries you’re
entitled to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine
or sixteen litres of beer. If arriving by air you can bring 200
cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, a fig-
ure that’s drastically reduced to 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos,
10 cigars or 50g of tobacco if arriving by any other means.
You can’t bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside
the EU except under certain circumstances. You can’t arrive
with live birds other than pets for non-commercial purposes.
Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other proof of
vaccination). You can take home as much art as you wish tax
free unless it’s over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay
10-20 per cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece
and your passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage,
Šnipiškių 3, tel. +370 527 342 56. Many of the better antique
shops in Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For
more detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for infor-
mation on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.
DISABLED TRAVELLERS
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over
the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get
around on anything other than two well functioning legs.
Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly can of-
ten be flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on
cobbled streets. Outside the capital, you’ll be lucky to find
any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. On the
positive side, however, it is worth noting that newer trol-
leybuses in Vilnius have low entry platforms, spaces for
wheelchairs and hearing loops.
DRIVING
The basic rules of the Lithuanian roads are as follows: seat
belts are compulsory for all (both driver and passengers),
and headlights must be used at all times of day or night. All
vehicles must be fitted with a small fire-extinguisher and first
aid kit, and you will need to have your driving license and ve-
hicle registration papers with you at all times. The speed limit
around town is 50kph unless otherwise indicated. Elsewhere
you can drive at 90kph on main roads, 70kph on unpaved
roads. Note that on the country’s highways the usual speed
limit of 130kph is reduced to 100kph during the winter.
ELECTRICITY
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at
220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round two-
pin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still ex-
ist, although if you push hard enough you should get the
plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should
bring an appropriate adaptor, as they’re almost impossible
to find in Lithuania.
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
January 1 New Year’s Day & National Flag Day
February 16 Independence Day
March 11 Restoration of Independence Day
April 5 (2015) Easter Sunday (Catholic)
April 6 (2015) Easter Monday (Catholic)
May 1 A day off for the workers!
May 3 (2015) Mothers’ Day
June 7 (2015) Father’s Day
June 24 Joninės, or Midsummer
July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas
August 15 Žolinė (Assumption)
November 1 All Saints’ Day
December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Most of the following companies provide services for on-
ward travel or simply for taking a holiday. Some can also
arrange visas for Russia and Belarus.
BALTIC TRAVEL SERVICE LUFTHANSA CITY CEN-
TERQC-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 02 20/1593,
www.bts.lt. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. JA
BPC TRAVELQB-00, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 210
25 90, www.bpctravel.lt. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. JA
KRANTAS TRAVELQA-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370)
5 231 33 14, www.krantas.lt. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
SENAMIESČIO GIDASQC-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370)
699 540 64/(+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.
com. Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA
THE BEAUTIFUL LAND OF NEVERMIND QD-3,
Užupio 23-9, tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt.
Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA
VISIT LITHUANIA QB-2, L. Stuokos Gucevičiaus 1, tel.
(+370) 5 262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. Open 08:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Skyscraper city
12 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 13 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
History Vilnius Basics
LOCAL TIME
Lithuania is in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone at
GMT+2hrs. When it’s 12:00 in Vilnius it’s 05:00 in New York, 10:00
in London, 11:00 in Warsaw, 13:00 in Moscow and 19:00 in To-
kyo. Eastern European Summer Time (EEST, GMT+3hrs) falls
between the last Sundays of March and October respectively.
MONEY & COSTS
The unit of currency in Lithuanian is - until January 1st, 2015 -
the litas (Lt), which comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt,
100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a num-
ber of weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/centų
coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt to €1.
From January 1st onwards, however, Lithuania uses the euro.
There will be a transition period of two weeks during which
time both litas and euros can be used, although change will
only be given in euros. Likewise, from January 1st ATMs will only
dispense euros. Most places of any note in Vilnius happily ac-
cept major credit cards, and ATMs are ubiquitous in urban areas,
although if you’re planning a trip to the countryside make sure
you take plenty of cash along. Lithuania is no longer the cheap
country for foreigners it used to be, although it still offers great
value to most visitors from western Europe and North America.
SERVICE
There are exceptions - and we take pride in exposing such
places in our listings - but as a general rule private-sector ser-
vice in Lithuania (particularly Vilnius) has improved beyond
description during the 20-odd years we have been publish-
ing Vilnius In Your Pocket. When we began, part of our raison
d’etre was to highlight those few places which offered de-
cent service; now our role is the exact opposite. If you need
to deal with public servants (and usually the average visitor
does not) you might well still come across the odd surly sur-
vivor of a bygone age, but even here the trend is towards a
new era of service with efficiency, if not always a smile.
SMOKING
Lithuanians by and large like a cigarette (and compared to
the UK cigarettes are very cheap) but that has not stopped
the country adopting some fairly tough anti-smoking leg-
islation. Smoking is banned in almost all indoor spaces,
including cafes, bars, pubs and clubs except in carefully
separated, special smoking rooms: look for the smoking
symbol in our listings. Smoking is also now banned in two
outdoor spaces in Vilnius: Kudirka Square and Bernardinų
Sodas, as well as at bus stops. Smoking here can leave you
open to a fine of between €5.80 and €14.48. If the ban is
successful in these areas, other parts of the capital could
also be declared smoke-free.
TOILETS
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (where’s the
toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you
use their facilities, although some have started to enforce a
small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few
non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with
plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone
by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest
establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next
to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.
VISAS
Lithuania is a member of both the European Union and the
Schengen border-free travel area. Visitors from the EU may
stay in Lithuania for as long as they like, while visitors from
30 or so other countries (including Australia, Canada, Ja-
pan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United
States) don’t require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within
a six month period. A visa issued by or for any Schengen
country is valid in Lithuania. For more information, includ-
ing the full-list of visa-free countries, take a look at www.
urm.lt.
EXCHANGE RATES
€1=3.45Lt £1=4.36Lt US$1=2.78Lt
(November 24, 2014)
CLIMATE
The climate information below only gives an average
indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures of-
ten plummet to below -20°C.
The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to coun-
ter the religious fervour of crusading German knights.
Lithuania was the last European country to convert to
Christianity, and has seen countless invasions and occu-
pations over the centuries.
7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish
themselves on what’s now known as Lithuanian territory.
11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written
texts in AD 1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built
on Vilnius’ Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the
construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it.
13th century Žemaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at
the Battle of Saulė in 1236, establishing the settlement of
Šiauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253 Min-
daugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuania’s one and
only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign of
the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority of
the population remains pagan.
14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 1275-
1341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns,
inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius
with the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure
peace, in 1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his
daughter Aldona to the Polish king’s son. The Polish-Lithua-
nian Commonwealth comes into being with the 1387 Krėva
Union, whereby Gediminas’ grandson Jogaila (circa 1348-
1434) becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess
Jadwiga (circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security,
the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the
1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius.
15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeat-
ed on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led
by Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the
Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, Žalgiris. German, Tannen-
berg), one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The
country flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from
the Baltic to the Black Sea.
16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural ad-
vances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book in
1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The
end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political
and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes
the state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with
Russia and Sweden drain the Commonwealth’s resources.
18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swed-
ish and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795
Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year
Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short libera-
tion by Napoleon’s army in 1812 on his failed campaign
to Moscow. During the Napoleonic army’s return through
Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation
and extreme cold.
19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent
against thetsarist government, culminatinginthe1831Novem-
ber Uprising, whichleads to the closingof the institution. Russifi-
cation ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly closed, the
Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the country named
the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin script forces the
smuggling in of books fromneighbouring East Prussia. Another
uprising takes place in 1863 and General Muravyov (The Hang-
man) is sent from Moscow to restore order, resulting in deaths
by hanging for most of the leading activists. The repression is
counteredanddefiedby a revival of Lithuaniancultureandtradi-
tion. In1883Jonas Basanavičius (1851-1927) publishes the first
Lithuanian-languagenewspaper, Auszra (Aušra, or Dawn).
INDEPENDENCE & BEYOND
1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sąjūdis is
founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia,
advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August
23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th
anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. October 7
The Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle.

1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially
commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000 Lithu-
anians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human chain
stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to protest the
50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.
1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachev’s visit to Vilnius
is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence dem-
onstrators turn out to ‘welcome’ him. March 4 Pro-inde-
pendence Sąjūdis candidates receive an overall majority in
the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March 11
The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or Sei-
mas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence
and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas
Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17
Moscow imposes an economic blockade.
1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the
parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the del-
egates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to reclaim
the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people are
killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to rec-
ognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border guards
and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border checkpoint
by Soviet Special Forces. August 21 The Moscow putsch col-
lapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings they’ve occupied since
January. Lenin’s statue is removed from Vilnius’ Lukiškių Aikštė
(Lukiškės Square). A photograph of the event appears on the
cover of Issue N°1 of Vilnius InYour Pocket, published on May 1,
1992. August 29 Sweden becomes the first Western country
to open an embassy in Vilnius. September 2 The USA recog-
nises Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. September 17 All three
Baltic countries are re-admitted into the UN.

1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own
flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928.
20
10
0
30
-10
J
-20
Temperature, °C
0
100
50
25
75
F M A M J J A O S D N
Rainfall, mm
M A M J J A O S D N
BASIC DATA
Population Lithuania 2,925,164 Vilnius 530,405
Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 84.1%
Poles 6.6% Russians 5.8% Belarusians 1.2%
Ukrainians 0.5% Others 1.8%
Territory 65,303km
2
Roughly twice the size of Belgium,
and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest
distance is 276km, east to west is 373km
Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia
453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km
Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)
Largest lake Drūkščiai 4,479ha
Highest point Aukštasis 293.8m
14 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 15 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Culture & Events History

1993 June 25 Lithuania’s pre-war currency, the litas, is
re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves
Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits.

1994 December Vilnius’ Old Town joins the list of Unesco
World Heritage sites.
1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Ad-
amkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at
the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before
returning to Lithuania to run for president. December 21
Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to interna-
tional pressure from the EU.
21ST CENTURY
2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting
various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas.
2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US dollar
to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which the country
is invited to join on October 9. November 22 Lithuania is invit-
ed to become a member of Nato. George Bush visits Vilnius the
following day, becoming the first US president to visit the city.
2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas
Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right
wing underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering
91% of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote
give a resounding Yes to EU membership.

2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as presi-
dent Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the Lithu-
anian constitution and his oath as president in his dealings
with unsavoury Russian business partners. April 2 Lithuania
becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and the EU on
May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus is re-elected
president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day job is protecting
the president, wins a gold medal at the Athens Olympics in
the discus. December 31 The Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant
says farewell to the first of its two RBMK reactors.
2007 December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone,
allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen
countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and Ra-
dio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia
radio station.
2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and
Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on
basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis
win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentath-
lon at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team
reach the semi-finals but eventually come home empty
handed.
2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was
first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt
million of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, sus-
pends all services. Dalia Grybauskaitė, the so-called Iron
Lady, is inaugurated as Lithuania’s first female president on
July 12.
2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from
the Soviet Union on March 11. In a sinister U-turn, on May
19 a court in Klaipėda approves the public display of swas-
tikas arguing that they represent Lithuania’s historical herit-
age, not Nazi Germany. Lithuania take bronze medal in the
World Basketball Championship in Turkey after defeating
Serbia 99-88 on September 12.
2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the
death of the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas
Čiurlionis. The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 compe-
tition in cities nationwide between August 31 and Sep-
tember 18. Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia
in the quarter finals in Kaunas on September 15.
2013 Lithuania takes over the Presidency of the Council of
the European Union for a six month period between July 1
and December 31.
2014 May 2014 Dalia Grybauskaitė is re-elected president
of Lithuania.
20TH CENTURY
During the WWI German occupation of 1915-1918 the
Lithuanian Council proclaims independence on Febru-
ary 16, 1918. As the Germans retreat, the Lithuanian
state comes under attack by the Polish General Józef
Piłsudski (1867-1935) who seizes control of Vilnius
and areas south and north of it from 1920-1939. Po-
land maintains control of these areas by claiming they
were a portion of the pre-war Polish-Lithuanian Com-
monwealth. Kaunas becomes the interim capital of
Lithuania until 1940. During the inter-war period inde-
pendent Lithuania prospers under the 14-year dictator-
ship (1926-1940) of the nationalist president Antanas
Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian independence ends
with the clandestine signing on August 23, 1939 of
the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between Hitler and Sta-
lin, who carve up Europe into portions to be controlled
by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. Lithuania is
subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation. Between
1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian henchmen
organise the mass murder of over 200,000 Jews, 94% of
the entire Litvak population. The return of the Red Army
and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into the USSR
on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of some
250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task they’d already be-
gun in 1940 before the Nazis arrived. Lithuanian parti-
sans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miško Broliai), wage
guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of protest against
the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19-year-old
student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in public in
Kaunas, dying from his wounds.
December 27, Congress Hall
The Queen Symphony
Yep, this is exactly what the title suggests: a full symphony,
performed by the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra,
based on the music of Queen. Written by British composer
Tolga Kashif and first performed in 2002, this rendition also
features the Kaunas State Choir, while Gintaras Rinkevičius
conducts. Tickets at www.tiketa.lt.
December 27, Pramogų Arena
Blazing Christmas Ice 2014
A chance to see Lithuania’s most famous and most suc-
cessful pair of ice skaters - Povilas Vanagas and Margarita
Drobiazko - in action. They will be performing all of their
best-loved routines, as well as throwing up one or two sur-
prises. Tickets at www.bilietai.lt.
December 28
The Christmas Race 2014
A tradition dating back to 1975, the Vilnius Christmas
Race features hundreds of runners (many of whom
dress in Santa Claus costumes) taking part in a race
around the Old Town. It starts and finishes in Town
Hall Square and takes in Rotušės aikštė, Vokiečių,
Dominikonų, Šv.Ignoto, Benediktinų, Vilniaus, Ged-
imino, Totorių, S.Daukanto and Universiteto along the
way. Without question the oddest and most fun sight
you will see in Vilnius this Christmas: the race starts at
10:00. If you want to take part yourself, you can register
at www.kaledinisbegimas.lt (sadly the site is in Lithu-
anian only).
December 30, Congress Hall
Festive concert Rock Ballads 3
A follow-up to last year’s amazingly successful concert, in
which some of Lithuania’s best-known rock singers team
up with a full orchestra (the Lithuanian State Symphony
Orchestra, no less) to belt out all your rock favourites,
performed like you’ve never heard them before. Tickets at
www.tiketa.lt.
OTHER EVENTS
December11 – 31, St. Catherine‘s Church
Christopher Christmas 2014
www.kristupofestivaliai.lt
December 20, Siemens Arena
Al Bano - www.tiketa.lt
December 26, Siemens Arena
Peter Marvey: The Magician Without Limits
www.tiketa.lt
December 28, Siemens Arena
Suzi Quatro concert - www.tiketa.lt
December 28 and 31, Congress Hall
The Waltzes And Polkas of Johann Strauss
www.lvso.lt
December 29, Congress Hall
Genesis Suite - www.lvso.lt
December 31, Congress Hall
Festive Concert: The Most Beautiful Opera Arias
www.lvso.lt
December 31, Siemens Arena
Frank Sinatra Tribute Show - www.tiketa.lt
February 15, Siemens Arena
Ed Sheeran concert - www.tiketa.lt
March 19 – 21, Siemens Arena
Cirque du Soleil – Quidam - www.tiketa.lt
March 25, Congress Hall
Celtic Legends. Irish Dance Live - www.tiketa.lt
CHRISTMAS IN THE CAPITAL
November 29 - January 11. The Old Town
Christmas in Vilnius this year will be bigger and bet-
ter than ever. The city is pulling out all the stops to
keep both locals and visitors occupied, with Cathedral
Square very much serving as Vilnius Christmas Ground
Zero. The city’s tree will be lit here on November 29th,
and will remain in position until January 11th. Through-
out December a Christmas Village will be open around
the tree, perfect for souvenirs and Christmas presents:
most of the little wooden huts will be serving local
food and drink. Mulled wine will be omnipresent. The
so-called Christmas Bus will once again be doing the
rounds of Old Town - from Old Town Square to Pilies,
Gediminas and Parliament and back. If previous years
are anything to go by, local kids will once again have to
share the bus with large groups of British lads in foot-
ball shirts. As is now traditional, the Vilnius TV Tower will
be decked out with lights, which will be switched on
on Christmas Day. New Year’s Eve in Vilnius will once
again be centred on the huge fireworks display in Ca-
thedral Square. Get there early. Note that many of the
venues we list in both our Restaurant and Nightlife
sections will be hosting special New Year’s Eve parties:
these usually include food and drink but almost all will
require you book in advance. If you are in town for New
Year, make sure you do not leave making plans until the
last moment: you could be left out on the street. For
more information check www.kaledossostineje.lt.
© Vilnius Tourism & Convention Bureau www.vilnius-tourism.lt
16 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 17 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
January 23 – 25, Exhibition and Convention Centre
Litexpo
Adventur 2015
Lithuania’s now annual travel and tourism fair, held up at Lit-
expo. This year’s event is dedicated to family holidays, but also
includes an entire hall dedicated to getting to know Lithuania.
February 11 – 12, Exhibition and Convention Centre
Litexpo
Convene 2015
A huge Litexpo-hosted event dedicated to the conference,
meetings, events and incentives industry. The biggest
event of its kind in the Baltics. For more information check
www.convene.lt.
February 17
Shrove Tuesday
Known around the world as Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday
and in the vernacular as Pancake Day, the Lithuanian ver-
sion of the festivities held on the day before Ash Wednes-
day at the start of Lent is called Užgavėnės (literally, ‘before
lent’), a distinctly pagan celebration marking something of
a slightly preemptive return of the sun. In Vilnius on the day
expect much frolicking and prancing about in costumes
designed to belittle the country’s ethnic minorities, a tra-
ditional tradesmen’s fair outside the Town Hall (see p.65)
complete with food, beer, hot wine and pancakes and the
burning of Morė, the pagan Goddess of Death who’ll be
dragged through the streets before being set on fire whilst
The Old Crafts Workshops of The Fine Crafts Association of Vilnius
(see below). Photo by Virginija Rimkutė
LITHUANIAN FOOD
two people dressed as Kanapinis and Lašininis have a fight.
The irresistible if somewhat incomprehensible and contro-
versial fun continues into the night with much dancing,
playing, pancake-eating and of course drinking. Ask a local
for more information.
February 19 – 22, Exhibition and Convention Centre
Litexpo
Vilnius International Book Fair
Always worth a trip out to Litexpo this now well established
annual event sees publishers and authors from both home
and abroad converge on the Lithuanian capital to sell their
goods, meet the public and generally celebrate the printed
word in all its many forms. Still in the planning stages at the
time of going to press, keep an eye on www.litexpo.lt to see
how things are progressing.
March 6 - 8
Kaziukas Fair
Celebrating the Patron Saint of Lithuania St. Casimir, the an-
nual Kaziukas Fair, quite possibly the oldest event of its kind
in the country, comes to the Old Town again at the start of
March. A large event featuring everything from traditional
arts and crafts to poetry readings to stalls selling fabulous
beer from small Lithuanian microbreweries, this one is defi-
nitely worth at least a couple of visits. The dedicated website
at www.kaziukomuge2014.lt promises to provide all the
information necessary for those wishing to know exactly
what’s taking place this year.
March 19 – April 2, Vilnius Cinema Theatres
Vilnius International Film Festival Kino Pavasaris 2015
The 20th Vilnius International Film festival arrives in town
on March 19 for two weeks of screenings, discussions and
film-related events. See www.kinopavasaris.lt for more in-
formation.
March 27 – 28, Contemporary Art Centre
Mados Infekcija 2015
The twice-a-year Mados Infekcija started in 1999 as a small
annual event and has grown to epic proportions. Showcas-
ing the work of a plethora of young and upcoming design-
ers, the festival features an array of classic catwalk shows
and a number of other fashion-related events. Taking place
inside the city’s Contemporary Arts Centre (see p.18), read
all about it online at www.madosinfekcija.lt.
ARTS & CRAFTS
AMATŲ GILDIJA
The ceramic artist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost com-
pletely blind yet manages to produce some great ceram-
ics from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic
stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists.
QB-4, Pranciškonų 6, tel. (+370) 5 212 05 20/(+370)
645 380 44, www.amatugildija.lt. Open 13:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. J
JONAS BUGAILIŠKIS ART STUDIO
A local mini-celebrity knocking out all manner of fabulous
wooden eccentricities based on a combination of traditional
Lithuanian folk art and the contents of a very unique mind.
The studio is now also home to Bugailiškis’ daughter, the
painter Aistė Bugailiškytė-Kapočienė.QC-5, Aušros Vartų
17-10, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. By appointment only. J
MENO NIŠA
Art to hang on your body as opposed to your wall, this
combined gallery and workshop presents some of the
best examples of the work of Lithuanian goldsmiths.QA-
3, J. Basanavičiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5 231 38 11, www.
menonisa.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. J
TAUTODAILININKO DIRBTUVĖ
Folk artist Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day
and creates some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel
and piece of paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian
as karpiniai, this old craft, which has been used to decorate
homes during special celebrations for centuries, is avail-
able for sale, or with patience and a steady hand you can
learn how to do it yourself.QG-4, J. Basanavičiaus 29, tel.
(+370) 687 906 50, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Open 17:00
- 20:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun call in advance. J
UŽUPIO GALERIJA
A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive jewellery from a range of
Lithuanian artists. A combined workshop and gallery, you’ll
usually find somebody working there, who’ll be only too
pleased to explain what they’re up to.QD-3, Užupio 3-1,
tel. (+370) 5 231 23 18, www.uzupioartgallery.com. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA
THE OLD CRAFTS WORKSHOPS OF THE FINE
CRAFTS ASSOCIATION OF VILNIUS (VILNIAUS
DAILIŲJŲ AMATŲ ASOCIACIJOS SENŲJŲ AMATŲ
DIRBTUVĖS) An extraordinary organisation dedicated
to both preserving and promoting a wide range of tradi-
tional fine crafts including practictioners such as jewellers,
ceramicists, book-binders and leather workers. Operating
out of studios and workshops spread around the city cen-
tre, the nice people who run the organisation arrange a
fascinating array of things for visitors to see and do includ-
ing lectures, tours, hands-on workshops and even a few
events for children. Visiting is a good opportunity to buy
some unique and special gifts and souvenirs. Their web-
site has good information in English.QC-4, Savičiaus 10,
tel. (+370) 5 212 51 69, www.vdaa.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. JA
UŽUPIO KALVYSTĖS GALERIJA - MUZIEJUS
A small working gallery dedicated to the art of the black-
smith. Watch people at work, buy something as a unique
gift or souvenir or ask about their regular workshops.QX-3,
Užupio 26, tel. (+370) 5 215 37 57, www.vilniauskalviai.
lt. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. J
It’s been written many times by many people in many
places (including, if we’re honest, by our good selves in
this very city guide) that nobody travels to Lithuania for
the food. While this is not entirely untrue, it is also a little
unfair. For while Lithuanian food is not as immediately
celebrated as certain other cuisines, this country’s food is
far more adventurous than people give it credit for.
It is perhaps the classic sour soup which is the staple of
the Lithuanian diet. The most legendary soup is the bright
pink šaltibarščiai, or cold beet soup, made with beet-
root. Another version of the same soup is the raugintų
burokėlių sriuba, made with shoulder of smoked ham
and served warm. Those of you who don’t like beetroot
should fear not, however, for mushroom soup (grybų
sriuba) is now almost as quintessentially Lithuanian (and
just as ubiquitous).
When it comes to the meatier parts of the menu, Lithu-
ania is not to be found wanting, particularly if you like
pork. This country seriously knows its stuff when it comes
to making the most of a pig, with almost every part of the
animal used in some kind of foodstuff. Trotters (troškintos
kojos) are one such local delicacy: they are braised for
hours and served with bacon and sauerkraut. Tradition-
ally, pigs are purchased by farmers shortly after harvest
time and fattened-up until just before Christmas, some-
times into January. They are then slaughtered, with the
tenderest cuts eaten and the rest of the ham and bacon
smoked. Sausages are made, of which the most famous is
the legendary Lithuanian smoked sausage, the skilandis.
Unusually for sausage in this part of the world the meat
used to make skilandis is very lean. Lesser cuts of meat are
used to make a more coarse sausage, rūkytos dešrelės. Our
own favourite way of eating pork in Lithuania however
is to devour a huge, boiled, heavily-smoked knuckle (vir-
tas rūkytas kumpis). Lamb (if you can find it) is also worth
trying: not least lamb’s testicles, a surprisingly tasty treat.
On the fish front, herring (silkė) is a big deal in Lithuania.
Baked, fried or pickled you will often see herring served as
an appetiser. When it comes to larger fish, pike (lydeka) - deli-
cious when simmered in beet juice - is the most common,
although carp also makes the odd appearance on menus.
Lithuania is a country rich in mushrooms. There are hun-
dreds of edible varieties, and as a result they play a key
part in local cuisine. Besides making soup, mushrooms
are used to flavour inumerous dishes, be it with meat, fish
or potatoes.
18 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 19 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
THE AMERICAN CENTER
(AMERIKOS CENTRAS) The Ameri-
can Center provides a variety of books,
DVDs and other resources on politics,
economics, business, entrepreneur-
ship, innovation, American history, lit-
erature and culture. It organises regular
film evenings, presentations by lectur-
ers from the US and Lithuania, as well as other educa-
tional and cultural activities. The American Center is
located at the US Embassy in Vilnius.QG-4, Akmenų 6,
tel. (+370) 5 266 54 02, WebEmailVilnius@state.gov,
www.vilnius.usembassy.gov/irc.html. Open 10:00 -
14:00, Tue 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JUW
CINEMAS
FORUM CINEMAS VINGIS
Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated multi-
plex close to the city centre.QG-4, Savanorių 7, tel. 1567,
www.forumcinemas.lt. Box ofce open 10:30 - 22:00.
Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). JA
MULTIKINO
Hollywood blockbusters inside a large shopping centre.
QH-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 219 53 78, www.
multikino.lt. Box ofce open 10:00 - 22:00. A
PASAKA
A compact Old Town cinema specialising in predominant-
ly independent and/or arthouse films from a wide range of
directors including Woody Allen and the interesting Lithu-
anian film maker Janina Lapinskaitė.QB-3, Šv. Ignoto 4/3,
tel. (+370) 5 261 15 16, www.kinopasaka.lt. Box ofce
open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:30. Also an hour
before the event. JW
SKALVIJA
The best place in the city for arthouse and underground cin-
ema and meeting people who like it in the attached café-bar.
QH-3, A. Goštauto 2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 05, www.skalvija.
lt. Box ofce open an hour before the event. JW
CONCERT HALLS
LITHUANIAN MUSIC & THEATRE ACADEMY (LIETU-
VOS MUZIKOS IR TEATRO AKADEMIJA) The place to
come and see performances by the cream of the country’s
next generation of professional musicians.QG-3, Gedimino
42, tel. (+370) 5 261 26 91, www.lmta.lt. J
LITHUANIAN NATIONAL PHILHARMONIC (LIETU-
VOS NACIONALINĖ FILHARMONIJA) Featur-
ing a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the Lithu-
anian National Symphony Orchestra was established in
1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles
including the aforementioned orchestra as well as the
Čiurlionis String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Mu-
sica Humana to name but a few.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 5,
tel. (+370) 5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.
eu. Box ofce open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00.
Closed Mon. JA
PIANO.LT
Hidden away down an Old Town backstreet, this small con-
cert hall arranges concerts of many types including classi-
cal and jazz.QB-4, Trakų 9/1 (entrance on Kėdainių), tel.
(+370) 5 203 28 91, www.piano.lt. J
PRAMOGŲ ARENA
A large ice-skating rink on the outskirts of the city that
also hosts the occasional concert.QE-2, Ąžuolyno 9, tel.
(+370) 5 242 44 44, www.pramoguarena.lt. Box ofce
open 14:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
SIEMENS ARENA
The quintessential all-purpose arena staging everything
from international basketball matches to big name rock
concerts.QH-1, Ozo 14, tel. 1588/(+370) 5 247 75 50,
www.siemensarena.lt. Box ofce open 10:00 - 18:00.
Fri, Sat, Sun open two hours before the event. A
ST. CATHERINE’S CHURCH (ŠV. KOTRYNOS
BAŽNYČIA) A city-owned concert space inside a mag-
nificent, converted 18th-century Baroque church. Con-
certs are varied and often very good indeed.QB-3, Vil-
niaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, kotrynosbaznycia@
gmail.com, www.kultura.lt. J
TEATRO ARENA
The main venue for the OKT theatre company (see The-
atres), this large place on the edge of town is also a concert
venue among other things.QI-3, Olimpiečių 3, tel. (+370)
683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. J
VILNIUS CONGRESS HALL (VILNIAUS KONGRESŲ
RŪMAI) Home to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra,
this city-centre venue features some fine acoustics and orga-
nises everything from serious classical concerts to shows for
children.QB-1, Vilniaus 6/16, tel. (+370) 5 261 88 28, www.
lvso.lt. Box ofce open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
CULTURAL CENTRES
art. Surplus to the 2,400 square metres of exhibition space,
the Contemporary Arts Centre also organises conferences
and lectures, features a superb reading room and hosts a
rather good bar.QC-4, Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45,
www.cac.lt. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission
€2.32/1.16. JU
TADAS
The weird and occasionally wonderful world of the Lithuanian
artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given over entirely to his
painting, sculpture and other media. Bordering on the naïve
and childlike, Gutauskas’ work is colourful to say the least and
all of it is for sale.QB-0, Kalvarijų 1, tel. (+370) 685 555 25,
www.gutauskai.lt. Open by appointment only. J
TERRA RECOGNITA
An interesting gallery representing the work of the con-
temporary and conceptual Lithuanian artist Saulius
Vaitiekūnas. Much of his work is both fun and thought
provoking and is generally available for sale.QC-3, Stiklių
7, tel. (+370) 612 444 79, www.terrarecognita.lt. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. J
TITANIKAS
A series of exhibition halls owned and curated by the
neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions run the
gamut from student shows to serious work from home
and abroad in just about every conceivable medium.QD-
2, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 36, www.vda.lt. Open
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
UŽUPIO MENO INKUBATORIUS (UŽUPIS ART IN-
CUBATOR) A tumbledown house on the riverbank, brightly
painted and with a few works in the garden, this is Užupis’
unofficial Ministry of Culture as well as a lively gallery space,
workshop and the only place in the city to buy official Užupis
Republic memorabilia, souvenirs, local artwork, a copy of the
Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works from
a wide range of contributors including established local art-
ists, school children and the occasional American professor of
mathematics. Follow the riverbank north from Užupio Kavinė.
QD-3, Užupio 2, tel. (+370) 611 226 75, www.umi.lt. Open
11:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
VARTAI
Arguably the best and most influential contemporary gal-
lery in the country. Find works in all media by the top Lith-
uanian artists working in their fields. Vartai also organises
exhibitions by artists from abroad. Recommended.QB-3,
Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytojų Namai), tel. (+370) 5 212
29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
ZNAD WILII
A Polish art gallery displaying and selling paintings, books and
the Polish-language newspaper of the same name.QD-3,
Išganytojo 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20, www.znadwiliiwilno.
lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
OPERA & BALLET
LITHUANIAN NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET THE-
ATRE (LIETUVOS NACIONALINIS OPEROS IR
BALETO TEATRAS) A stunning construction opened in
1974 and offering the whole range of works. Worth a look
inside even if you don’t plan on attending anything.QA-
1, A. Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 27, www.opera.
lt. Box ofce open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. JA
PHOTOGRAPHY
PROSPEKTO GALERIJA
Owned and run by the Lithuanian Photographers’ Union,
Prospekto Galerija is a hit and miss affair but really worth
the effort just in case. Exhibitions range from the sublime to
the awful, often let down partially by the artists themselves
who submit badly presented work that’s often lit with no
thought to the work. There’s also a small shop where you
can buy books and postcards featuring the work of many
famous and obscure Lithuanian art, news and documentary
photographers past and present.QG-3, Gedimino 43, tel.
(+370) 5 261 83 38, www.photography.lt. Open 12:00 -
18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
THEATRES
Almost all performances are in Lithuanian or Russian.
Some theatres provide occasional simultaneous transla-
tion. Check to make sure before booking tickets.
ARTS PRINTING HOUSE (MENŲ SPAUSTUVĖ)
Housed inside a former tsarist-era printing house this
intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to
collect and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for vari-
ous performers. Check the website for a full list of their
activities.QD-2, Šiltadaržio 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32,
www.menuspaustuve.lt. J
DOMINO THEATRE (DOMINO TEATRAS)
The brainchild of a small collective of like-minded lo-
cal thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts on shows
inside a cinema.QG-4, Savanorių 7 (Forum Cinemas
Vingis), tel. (+370) 656 863 83, www.dominoteatras.
lt. Box office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00.
GYTIS IVANAUSKAS THEATRE
The brainchild of the still relatively young dancer, ac-
tor and choreographer Gytis Ivanauskas, this interest-
ing experimental company are worth looking out for.
Currently they’re without a home but perform regularly
around the city.Qinfo@giteatras.lt, www.giteatras.lt.
GALLERIES
ACADEMY (AKADEMIJA)
The gallery of the Vilnius Art Academy hosts all manner of
contemporary shows by artists from home and abroad and
is always worth a look inside.QC-3, Pilies 44/2, tel. (+370) 5
261 20 94, www.vda.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J
CONTEMPORARY ART CENTRE (ŠIUOLAIKINIO
MENO CENTRAS) Vilnius’ very own monstrous car-
buncle on the face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete
masterpiece conceals one of the country’s leading galler-
ies for both Lithuanian and international contemporary
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Culture & Events Culture & Events
7 18:30 Alexander’s Feast G. F. Handel.
11, 12 18:30 The Marriage of Figaro W. A. Mo-
zart.
21 18:30 La Juive J. F. Halevy.
25 18:30 Ernani G. Verdi.
27 18:30 L’Elisir d’Amore G. Donizetti.
Operetta
19 18:30 The Bat J. Strauss.
Ballet
4, 5 18:30 The Snow Queen S. Prokofiev.
13, 14 18:30 Carmen ballet G. Bizet.
18 18:30 Čiurlionis G. Kuprevičius.
20 18:30 Coppélia L. Delibes.
26 18:30 The Sleeping Beauty
P. Tchaikovsky.
28 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
For Children
1 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofev.
8 12:00 Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs
B. Pawlowski.
15 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofev.
22 18:30 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
MARCH
Opera
4 18:30 Cornet O. Narbutaitė.
6 18:30 Alexander’s Feast G. F. Handel.
13 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
19 18:00 Lohengrin R. Wagner.
25 18:30 La Juive J. F. Halevy.
28 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.
Operetta
21 18:30 The Bat J. Strauss.
Ballet
7 18:30 Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet,
A. Adam, A. Schnittke.
12 18:30 Čiurlionis G. Kuprevičius.
18 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.
20 18:30 Giselle A. Adam.
26, 27 18:30 Carmen ballet G. Bizet.
For Children
1 12:00 Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs
B. Pawlowski.
8 12:00 The Tiny Lingonberry J. Tam-
ulionis.
14 12:00 Première. Zuikis Puikis S. Mickis.
Chamber Hall.
15 16:00 Première. Zuikis Puikis S. Mickis.
Chamber Hall.
22 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
28 12:00 Première. Zuikis Puikis S. Mickis.
Chamber Hall.
29 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofev.
OPERA & BALLET
DECEMBER
Opera
3, 4 18:30 The Barber of Seville G. Rossini.
10 18:30 Carmen G. Bizet.
17 18:30 Ernani G. Verdi.
19 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
Operetta
6 18:30 The Bat J. Strauss.
12, 23 18:30 The Merry Widow F. Lehár.
27 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.
Ballet
5 18:30 Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet,
A. Adam, A. Schnittke.
7, 14, 21,
28
12:00 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
7, 21, 28 18:00 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
11 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
13, 18 18:30 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
Concert
31 19:00 New Year’s Gala Concert. LNOBT
Symphony Orchestra.
JANUARY
Opera
9 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
15 18:30 Alexander’s Feast G. F. Handel.
21 18:30 Ernani G. Verdi.
24 18:30 L’Elisir d’Amore G. Donizetti.
28, 29 18:30 The Barber of Seville G. Rossini.
Operetta
2 18:30 Wiener Blut J. Strauss.
10 18:30 The Merry Widow F. Lehár.
17 18:30 The Bat J. Strauss.
Ballet
3, 7, 8,
14
18:30 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
11 12:00 The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
16 18:30 Tristan & Isolde R. Wagner.
22, 23 18:30 The Blue Danube J. Strauss.
30 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus.
31 18:30 Carmen ballet G. Bizet.
For Children
4 12:00 The Tiny Lingonberry J. Tam-
ulionis.
18 12:00 Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs
B. Pawlowski.
25 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
Concert
13 19:00 German Requiem J. Brahms.
FEBRUARY
Opera
6 18:30 La Traviata G. Verdi.
APRIL
Concert
5 18:30 Filarmonica Della Scala Concert.
Conductor Myung Whun Chung.
Opera
15, 16 18:30 The Barber of Seville G. Rossini.
18 18:30 Cornet O. Narbutaitė.
24 18:00 Lohengrin R. Wagner.
25 18:30 Alexander’s Feast G. F. Handel.
29 18:30 Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky.
Ballet
10, 11 18:30 Première. Bolero+. A triptych of
one-act ballets.
17 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.
21 18:30 Čiurlionis G. Kuprevičius.
23 18:30 La Bayadère L. A. Minkus.
30 18:30 Barbora Radvilaitė S. Vainiūnas,
A. Malcys, H. M. Górecki and other
composers.
For Children
11,18,
25
12:00 Zuikis Puikis S. Mickis. Chamber
Hall.
12, 19 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofev.
26 12:00 Cipollino K. Chachaturian.
Performances take place at the Lithuanian National
Opera and Ballet Theatre (see p. 19). More info at
www.opera.lt
LĖLĖ PUPPET THEATRE (VILNIAUS TEATRAS LĖLĖ)
This inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages has been
charming audiences in Vilnius since the company was found-
ed way back in 1958.QC-4, Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 86 78,
www.teatraslele.lt. Box ofce open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. J
LITHUANIAN NATIONAL DRAMA THEATRE
(LIETUVOS NACIONALINIS DRAMOS TEATRAS)
Pretty much what it says it is, the Lithuanian National Drama
Theatre promotes theatre from home and abroad and stages
it in two venues inside the same building. Look for the three
muses guarding the main entrance.QB-2, Gedimino 4, tel.
(+370) 618 757 80, www.teatras.lt. Box ofce open 10:00 -
14:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. J
LITHUANIAN RUSSIAN DRAMA THEATRE
(LIETUVOS RUSŲ DRAMOS TEATRAS) The only
professional theatre in the country staging works exclu-
sively in the Russian language, this fine old building also
hosts other events including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz
Festival.QH-4, J. Basanavičiaus 13, tel. (+370) 5 262 05
52, www.rusudrama.lt. Box ofce open 10:45 - 18:30,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
NATIONAL YOUTH THEATRE (VALSTYBINIS
JAUNIMO TEATRAS) Founded in 1966 the Na-
tional Youth Theatre stages works of all kinds from
the classics to experimental to innovative reworkings
of original stories.QC-4, Arklių 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61
26, www.jaunimoteatras.lt. Box office open 11:00 -
14:00, 14:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. JA
OKT/VILNIUS CITY THEATRE (OKT/VILNIAUS
MIESTO TEATRAS) Dedicated to modern theatre and
modern interpretations of the classics. See their website
for when and where they’re performing.QB-4, Ašmenos
8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99, www.okt.lt. J
TEATRAS MENO FORTAS An Old Town theatre giv-
en over entirely to the visionary antics of the infamous
Lithuanian theatrical director Eimuntas Nekrošius. Works
include everything from Shakespeare to original works.
QD-2, Bernardinų 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 231 21 10, www.
menofortas.lt. J
VILNIUS OLD TOWN THEATRE (VILNIAUS
SENAMIESČIO TEATRAS) Founded during the final
days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the the-
atre specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of
the 16th and 17th centuries. With a varied repertoire, the
company performs almost exclusively in public outdoor
spaces.QA-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 687 916 61,
www.senamiescioteatras.lt.
VILNIUS SMALL STATE THEATRE (VALSTYBINIS
VILNIAUS MAŽASIS TEATRAS) Only finding a per-
manent home in 2005, this interesting theatre company
who stage a wide range of predominantly contemporary
works are based inside a glorious building in the city cen-
tre. Worth a look around even if you’re not attending a
performance.QA-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5 249 98 69,
www.vmt.lt. Box ofce open 11:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 18:30,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J
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22 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 23 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking 6 Pet-friendly
X Smoking place J Old town location
E Live music S Take away
I Fireplace W Wi-Fi
B Outside seating V Home delivery
With the exception of a handful of amusing and/or ap-
palling disasters, eating out in Vilnius is both excellent
and relatively afordable for all. The city’s restaurants
and cafés literally cater to taste buds of every persua-
sion, ofering everything from vast plates of potato-
based local specialities to a surprisingly wide and gen-
erally palatable concoction of dishes from the kitchens
of such far away places as India and Brazil. Although
the bulk of restaurants worth visiting can be found
within the city centre, the suburbs also ofer a few
treats, which we list when we feel that the plaudits is
deserving. Tipping, if deserved, is up to the diner, with
10 per cent or a rounding up of the bill both being ac-
ceptable.
ARGENTINEAN
EL GAUCHO SANO
This cellar restaurant is prized by those in the know for its
steaks, but there’s also plenty of other Argentinean speci-
alities on offer for those who like to experiment, making El
Gaucho Sano an ideal place to head for diners bored of the
usual offerings around town. Last time round we went for
the sirloin steak, which was ample in proportions, cooked
to perfection and extremely good value considering this
is basically a hotel restaurant.QC-2, Pilies 10, tel. (+370)
5 210 77 73, www.atrium.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €17.
PJASW
ASIAN
PEKINAS
The closest Chinese restaurant to the Chinese embassy is a
small affair with plenty of obligatory lanterns, friendly staff
and a television and CD player vying for attention in au-
thentic Chinese fashion. The slightly pricey menu is exten-
sive and generally excellent, with plate warmers on hand
to keep the large portions piping hot as they’re slowly
devoured. Amidst the more mainstream offerings of beef,
pork, chicken and vegetable dishes are a few exotic treats
including snails and even ostrich.QH-5, Algirdo 28/15,
tel. (+370) 5 215 16 20, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. Open 11:00 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €9. PTAUVSW
SOYA
The legendary national chain of Čili restaurants is currently
undergoing a major restructuring programme, one of the
results being this new name in Asian cuisine. The brain-
child of master chef Yu Chen, Soya focuses its attention on
quality food from China, Japan, Korea and Thailand, an am-
bitious endeavour that appears to be paying off. About as
authentic as you’ll get for an Asian restaurant in this part of
the world, perhaps the only major criticism to be levelled
against them is the location, which is obscure to say the
least. We were particularly impressed with the fusion food
and the banana tempura.QJ-1, Žirmūnų 68a, tel. (+370)
5 277 41 11, www.soya.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. Also at A. Vienuolio 4, Vokiečių 8, Ozo 25 (Ak-
ropolis), Ukmergės 369 (BIG). €5. PAVSW
BELGIAN
BELGAI
Reopened after renovation, Belgai is better than ever. The
interior is a little more contemporary than before, and we
like it. The food is as good as ever, and the portions just
as you will remember them: enormous, especially the
fantastic pots of fresh mussels: still the pick of the menu
they serve them in at least 20 different, variously inven-
tive, ways. The Belgian beer tasting menu is a treat that
more than warrants the price.QB-5, Rūdninkų 15/46, tel.
(+370) 612 147 11, www.belgai.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 20:00. €9. PTJA6W
BRAZILIAN
GRILL BRAZIL
A marvellous restaurant specialising in churrasco and espeto
corrido cuisine, which for the uninitiated is a Brazilian buffet
extravaganza wherein diners help themselves to endless por-
tions of salad and other dishes whilst a procession of waiters
do the rounds armed with large skewers loaded with grilled
meat which is cut at the table and dropped onto the plate.
Unquestionably one of the best restaurants in the country,
there’s also an accompanying set menu for the less adventur-
ous.QF/G-2, Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), tel. (+370) 671 886
65, www.grillbrazil.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €8. AW
CANTONESE
NEW
YUM CHA
The first Cantonese restaurant ever to open in Lithuania and
if first impressions are anything to go by, it’s a keeper. We
turned up on only their second day of business and already
it was doing a decent trade: even without a proper menu
and a few other rough edges. The prawn wonton soup and
mild spicy prawn with egg fried rice we ate was fabulously
tasty, and the service was impeccable for a new restaurant.
Nice interior, by and large free of the awful tat that often
spoils ethnic restaurants in this part of the world.QC/D-5,
Subačiaus 6a, tel. (+370) 5 213 89 88. Mon - Thu 11:00 -
16:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 03:00, Sat
11:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €5. PJASW
CHINESE
DIDŽIOJI KINIJA
Quite frankly there are too many Chinese restaurants
in Vilnius, making decisions difficult considering they
all more or less look the same as each other. If in doubt,
you could do a lot worse than opting for Didžioji Kinija, a
long-established favourite in the city with a huge menu
of dishes we’re slowly going through and that has yet to
disappoint. The vegetable spring rolls are among the best
we’ve ever eaten and the vegetarian options in general are
more or less outstanding. A consistent winner in a city of
losers, we’re still waiting to find a fault here and wonder
if we ever will. Recommended.QA-00, Konstitucijos 12,
tel. (+370) 5 263 63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. Open 11:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €7. PTAVSW
FINE DINING
IMPERIAL BY CALIFORNIA GOURMET
The five-star Ramada Hotel &Suites Vilnius’ flagship gourmet
restaurant offers the ultimate in dining, from the sophisti-
cated décor through to the mouth-watering food. Billed as
the first gourmet restaurant in Lithuania, the food here is
taken very seriously indeed and gets most of its inspiration
from the melting pot of cuisines coming out of the United
States. The menu is impressive and includes a wealth of
classy dishes.QC-5, Subačiaus 2 (Ramada Hotel & Suites
Vilnius), tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, www.californiagourmet.
lt. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
€30. PTJAUSW
For donations: Deutsche Bank Munich | Account no.: 746500800
Sort code: 70070010 IBAN: DE19 7007 0010 0746 5008 00
Bank ID Code: DEUTDEMMXXX | Reference: ‘Drying little tears’
sx09343_AZ_Drying-Little-Tears_Lithuania_124x41.indd 1 31.10.2013 10:30:29 LA PERGOLA
White tablecloth gourmet dining in sumptuous surroundings
inside the Grotthuss hotel, or, during the warmer months, on
their lovely terrace just off a quiet street in the heart of Old
Town. The menu of international dishes includes plenty of
options to keep everybody happy, and is accompanied by an
equally admirable wine list.QB-5, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5
266 03 22, www.grotthusshotel.com. Open 17:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. €19. PTJAULW
LA PROVENCE
Deliciously expensive for a reason, La Provence has been
packing them in since it first opened its doors way back
in 2001. Exclusive, theatrical and a magnet for all manner
of well-heeled VIPs, these people understand flavour like
few others, infusing it into a wide range of dishes from
octopus salad through seasonal seafood to a classic ti-
ramisu made on the premises. Although meat and fish
dominate, there are a couple of vegetarian main courses
on offer to keep everyone satisfied. The wine menu is
both perfectly thought out and frightfully ostentatious.
Do yourself a favour and learn the exchange rate before
ordering some of the four-figure bottles of champagne.
Recommended.QB-4, Vokiečių 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 02
57, www.laprovence.lt. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. €22. PTJAS
NARUTIS RESTAURANT
Lush burgundy and orange fabrics and glorious 18th-cen-
tury frescoes, white tablecloths and staff with impeccable
style, that’s what people have grown to expect in this top
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Where to eat Where to eat
notch Old Town hotel restaurant. There’s plenty of imitators
hereabouts, but in Naručio Restoranas you get the real thing,
meaning great service and great food. The menu features an
imaginative concoction of dishes from around the world, in-
cluding one of the best kybyn (a Lithuanian Karaite speciality)
in the country to a mouth-watering Chilean sea bass. Using
fresh ingredients to create works of art on every plate, this
one really is hard to beat.QC-3, Pilies 24 (The Narutis Hotel -
Preferred Boutique), tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, www.narutis.
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €20. PTJASW
STIKLIAI
A small but magnificent menu of wonderful dishes featur-
ing such classic favourites as black truffles and a proper
sorbet, all served from soup to nuts by impeccable staff
in truly sumptuous surroundings. Whereas most hotel res-
taurants are best avoided, this one is more than an excep-
tion. Backpackers and stag parties might like to find some-
where else to eat. People with style who know a good
thing when they see it and who like to impress might like
to book a table.QC-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370)
5 264 95 80, www.stikliai.com. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00
- 23:00. Sat 12:00 - 23:30. €29. PTJAUW
TELEGRAFAS
One of the top five restaurants in all of Lithuania, perhaps
even the entire Baltics. A superb menu - which changes
frequently - boasts a wide selection of both meat and fish
(often with a local twist), while treats such as the Lobster
Thermidor and the tiger prawns underline the fact that they
will pull out all the stops to be the very best. The dining
room itself is smart yet never stuffy, and the wine list is a
sensation: what’s more there is wine for all pockets. Overall
of course a meal here will cost a small fortune, but you will
nevertheless leave feeling that you have had full value for
money. The name derives from the fact that during most of
Soviet period this was the main telegraph office in Vilnius.
A must.QC-2, Universiteto 14 (Kempinski Hotel Cathedral
Square), tel. (+370) 5 220 16 00, www.kempinski.com/
vilnius. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Breakfast menu served 07:00
- 10:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:30. Business lunch served Mon
- Fri 12:00 - 15:00. €23. PTJAUW
FRENCH
BALZAC
Still impressively busy most times we walk past, our last
outing to Balzac was as good as the previous one, if not
better. The staff remain friendly and helpful and the food,
if not exactly like the stuff made from fresh local ingredi-
ents you’d expect from a roadside restaurant in the sub-
urbs of Bordeaux, is more than good enough to keep visit-
ing French visitors more than happy. The complimentary
bread and spread provided while you wait is not only a
welcome treat but worthy of a review in itself, whilst the
impressive menu continues to impress. Recommended is
the classic onion soup followed by a hotchpotch of small
dishes to share with friends. Note that the kitchen closes
1 hour before they lock the doors.QC-4, Savičiaus 7, tel.
(+370) 614 892 23, www.balzac.lt. Open 11:30 - 23:00,
Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €10.
PTJASW
CAFÉ MONTMARTRE
Brushing aside the name, this otherwise unpretentious
small restaurant on a spookily French-feeling corner of Old
Town came up trumps when we needed a croque-mon-
sieur in a hurry and of the kind you’ll find in Paris for the
same price. With a menu of other similar snacks as well as
larger dishes both from France and Italy, if everything’s as
good as the aforementioned toasted slice of magnificence
then this is definitely one to keep an eye out for.QC-4/5,
Didžioji 40, tel. (+370) 612 892 69. Open 09:00 - 23:00,
Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
€9. JASW
MARCHÉ DE PROVENCE
This now well established Old Town restaurant specialises
in not only the cuisine after which the place is named but
also serves dishes from a number of other European cu-
linary destinations. The regularly changing bill of fare is
positively packed with good things including at the time
of going to press sea snails, a great gazpacho and main
dishes including venison, oven baked lamb and duck with
orange. There’s also some super desserts and an excel-
lent wine list to compliment everything. Their shop in the
same building offers a range of quality food from home
and abroad.QC-3, Pilies 27, tel. (+370) 686 777 07, www.
marchedeprovence.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen
order 22:30. €20. PJASW
SAINT GERMAIN
Decorated inside to imitate French shambles chic and
further reinforced with plenty of good outdoor seating
during the summer, Saint Germain is one of the city’s
best French restaurants. Often full of smart locals and
in-the-know visitors looking for superior flavours, the
atmosphere is certainly one of the best in town, and
the wine list equally admirable. What’s more, the excel-
lent food (we loved the grilled scallops with asparagus)
is more than affordable. Thoroughly recommended.
QC/D-3, Literatų 9, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 10, www.
saintgermain.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen or-
der 22:30 (Sunday 22:00). €17.JASW
FUN
PAUKŠČIŲ TAKAS
Unquestionably the highest restaurant in Vilnius, this
revolving place at the top of the Television Tower offers
amazing views (reason for which there is a cover charge
to prevent people coming up just for the view). While the
food could never expect to live up to the setting it is per-
fectly acceptable and not - as you might expect - priced
outrageously. In fact, it’s cheaper than many places that
have far less exotic views. The kitchen closes 1.5 hours
before they lock the doors. Trolleybus 16 from the train
station runs close by, an honest taxi will cost around
€6.QSausio 13-osios 10 (Television Tower), tel. (+370)
5 252 53 36, www.tvbokstas.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 23:00. Box ofce open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 22:00. €8. ASW
RENÉ
One of few places in Vilnius you can get seriously good
and - most importantly - fresh Belgian mussels. Note how-
ever that as they insist on only selling fresh produce, some
days they will not have any mussels: phone ahead if you
have set your heart on mussels and fries. There is plenty of
other decent food to choose from though, and the setting
is simple yet charming: being able to draw on the tables is
always a draw for some. Good selection of Belgian beer.
The service from the bowler-hatted waitresses can be a
little hit and miss.QC-4, M. Antokolskio 13, tel. (+370) 5
212 68 58. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €8. PTA6US
UŽUPIO KAVINĖ
This place is the headquarters of the organisation behind
the Republic of Užupis, the tiny ‘breakaway’ republic on the
left bank of the Vilnia. Like Užupis itself this venue attracts
a mix of offbeat and curious types, as well as artists and
musicians. The food and drink on offer is good, not least
the Irish lamb soup (unlikely to be found on any other
menu in Vilnius). The milkshakes are probably Republic of
Užupis’ finest exports.QD-3, Užupio 2, tel. (+370) 5 212
21 38, www.uzupiokavine.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €6.
JASW
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Where to eat Where to eat
FISH
ŽUVINĖ
From the same stable as the people with the same
name in Palanga, this classy little number serves a
select range of predominantly locally caught fish ac-
companied with all manner of fancy additions. The
style is very much upscale, the food is impressive and
the location inside the historical Town Hall is more or
less unbeatable.QC-4, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 682 191
72, www.zuvine.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 -
22:00. €15. PTJASW
FUSION
COCO RESTOBAR
A huge padded mirror over the door marks the spot where
Coco Restobar can be located. Inside is a well though-out
affair populated with a mostly young and intelligent
crowd who when they’re not drinking and ogling the DJs
take advantage of a cracking little changing menu of great
experimental food with a distinctive Asian twist.QB-2,
Labdarių 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 09. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. €5. PJASW
INDIE BAR
The eye-catching slogan “burgers, beer, rock & rum”
doesn’t quite to Indie justice. The fab burgers are made
tive, good value food on offer includes schnitzels,
bratwurst, bangers and mash, lamb, boar, beef steaks,
fresh fish and the house special dish of goose with fried
potatoes and a host of other vegetables. There’s live
music during the weekends and an extensive range
of drinks including Riesling, Grauer Burgunder and the
recommended German beer Zoller-Hof from Schwa-
bia.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 11, tel. (+370) 5 212 83 12,
www.buntegans.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00
- 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €10.
TJAESW
GOURMET BURGERS
BOOM! BURGERS
Very centrally located - it’s on the other side of the
street to the Cathedral - you in fact need to look care-
fully to find the entrance of Boom, as it hardly stands
out. Once in, you will find a bright place serving gour-
met burgers which are cooked to order: we asked for
a medium cooked hamburger with onion rings and it
was exactly as we wanted. The Caesar salad would have
been better with chicken (which can be ordered sepa-
rately) but they had run out of it. The cheesecake comes
with ice-cream, a pinch of salt and a drop of olive oil
and is one of the best we’ve tasted. Decent music and
friendly service.QB/C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 652
145 34. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €6. PTJASW
BAKERIES
CHAČAPURI
A small bakery with a handful of tables offering mostly
takeaway Georgian breads of various kinds, generally
baked to order and consequently often taking a while to
arrive. Not advisable for those in a hurry, but outstand-
ingly recommended for those who aren’t. There’s usually
somebody there who speaks English to help decode the
mysteries of Georgian baking. Recommended is the dish
after which the place is named, chačapuri, aka khachapuri,
a smashing little bread bun-type thing filled with cheese.
QB-6, Sodų 9, tel. (+370) 5 240 58 51, www.khachapuri.
lt. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. JAS
PINAVIJA
Pandering to those looking for a more healthy lifestyle
this combined bakery and café specialises in a wide range
of treats made from natural ingredients. Offering both
the choice of eating in or taking away, the menu is im-
pressive and features everything from classic Lithuanian
and international savoury pastries to a mind-boggling
array of cakes and desserts. There’s also a good choice
of drinks on offer and an excellent area for children at the
back, all located in a convenient central location.QA-2,
Vilniaus 21, tel. (+370) 676 444 22. Open 09:30 - 20:30,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:30. PTJASW
to order - medium rare was perfect for us - and come in
styles like Tex-Mex or with Red Leicester cheese. Rum is
poured into a lemongrass-inflected Caribbean soup and
there are 17 rum varieties to imbibe as well as cocktails
and draught beers.QA-4, Pylimo 23, tel. (+370) 608
424 20. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. €4.
PJAEW
GEORGIAN
TIFLISI DUKANI
Featuring pleasant décor, an equally agreeable staff and
some real magic taking place in the kitchen, Tiflisi Du-
kani’s menu features enough Caucasian cuisine to keep
mouths watering for months to come. Because this is a
real Georgian restaurant owned and run by people who
know their business, the staff are on hand to advise as
to what dishes to order. Highly recommended are any of
the Georgian soups and the magnificent grilled meats.
An extensive wine menu and plenty of classic des-
serts finishes everything off perfectly.QA-4, Naugar-
duko 12, tel. (+370) 656 228 05. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri
11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €7.
PTAVESW
GERMAN
BUNTE GANS
Bunte Gans churns out excellent German cuisine and
other dishes in this Old Town favourite. The imagina-
28 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 29 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
GRILL
PANAMA FOOD GARDEN
Take a step away from the bustle of the old town and
head across the river to this excellent restaurant set in-
side an old wooden house in the leafy residential district
of Žvėrynas. The pedigree of the owners is good having
already created the popular Meat Lovers Pub although in
contrast to that venture this is a little more upmarket with
a smart but relaxed atmosphere. There are two main rea-
sons to jump in a taxi and pop over here - the food and
the garden. You’ll find the changing menu chalked up
on a board from which we chose duck in an onion gra-
vy and a beautifully prepared tuna, both of which were
delicious. The place to enjoy it is in the peaceful garden,
one of the best dining spaces in the city.QF-3, Vykinto
17a, tel. (+370) 650 828 29. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €12.
TJA6ESW
THE SMOKE HOUSE
A steakhouse which tries hard to get things right, although
it has to be said that in our experience that is not always
the case. Our medium steak was more well done than any-
thing, although we have to admit that the beef itself was
fabulous: a superb cut of meat. The marinated vegetables
it came with were good too, and the staff were very un-
derstanding. The place itself is simple but nice, and all in
all you can do a lot worse in this town if you crave a meaty
feast.QB-4, Vokiečių 18a, tel. +370) 5 212 17 17. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun
13:00 - 22:00. €10. JA6SW
NEW
THE TOWN CONTEMPORARY GRILL & BAR
A less expensive yet no less high-quality version of Boff,
brought to you by the same people. Expect fine contem-
porary dining including one of the best gourmet burgers
Vilnius has to offer and a fine line up of steaks (all local pro-
duce, by the way). There are also a couple of vegetarian op-
tions (try the spinach pie) and the desserts are great.QA-1,
Gedimino 26, tel. +370) 5 203 12 28. Open 11:30 - 22:00,
Sat 12:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €12. PTJASW
CARRÉ
Featuring several cubby holes in which to hide as well as an ex-
ceptionally long bar, Carré functions on several levels as a res-
taurant, bar and place to relax and drink coffee. The ambitious
menu tips its hat to just about every cuisine known to human-
ity plus there’s an extremely well stocked bar. Popular with
a young and moderately sophisticated crowd, the place at-
tracts punters with the added bonus of the occasional DJ, plus
there’s a large terrace out the back open during the warmer
part of the year.QB-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 687 901 59.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. €7. PTJAUSW
COZY
Friendly welcomes from bar staff who remember your
name is something of a rarity in Lithuania, making Cozy
worth a visit for that reason alone. If you’re only staying for a
short while though there’s still plenty of reason to visit from
an imaginative menu of pub grub that offers more than one
dish for vegetarians (the risotto is a current hit) to the leg-
endary in-house troika, a sweet-tasting, three-layered cock-
tail traditionally drunk by a select handful of regulars who
always have a taxi number ready when it’s time to wobble
out the door. The current exhibition of large black and white
photographs of everyday life in the bizarre Russian-speaking
town of Visaginas finishes everything off very nicely indeed.
Recommended.QC-3, Dominikonų 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11
37, www.cozy.lt. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. €7. PJASW
INDIAN
SUE’S INDIAN RAJA
The best restaurant in Vilnius continues to impress with a fabu-
lously pungent menu of dishes, all made from hand-picked
and hand-mixed spices by a crack team of Indian chefs over-
seen by the uniquely charming Wing Commander Rajinder
Chaudhary. Our last outing saw us putting away a mild pork
korma and a consistently outstanding and nicely spicy butter
chicken after demolishing way too many onion bhajis for our
own good. The service remains excellent, the location is un-
beatable and the bill at the end of it may be a little shocking for
local prices but if you compare it to what you’d be expected
to pay for an average Indian on any British high street then
it simply doesn’t compare. Magic, and thoroughly recom-
mended.QB-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18 88, www.
suesindianraja.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00. €10.
PTJAVSW
INTERNATIONAL
1DUBLIS
Where to start? Food as performance art in which the diner
(that being you) is the star. There are two sittings, one at 18:00
and another at 20:00, both of which have set menus that
change each evening. The chefs (led by Deivydas Praspaliaus-
kas) make a point of visiting every table and will happily talk
about the dish they’ve just prepared. The setting is cool: a mix
of modern and industrial that does not overpower the food.
Service is top notch, and as for the price, while it is not cheap
food this good seldom is: you will walk away feeling as though
it was worth every penny. We did.QH-5, V. Šopeno 10, tel.
(+370) 674 419 22, www.1dublis.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €19. PJAW
BISTRO 18
A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro18 specialises pri-
marily in dishes from the world of European seasonal cuisine
including French onion soup, risotto, pasta and scores of meat-
heavy dishes such as beef and rabbit. There’s pudding too, and
the aforementioned wine shop stocks a huge selection of
booze. There’s little sympathy for vegetarians here, but if you’re
into classy dining on one of Vilnius’ poshest streets this might
just be the place for you.QC-3, Stiklių 18, tel. (+370) 677 720
91, www.bistro18.lt. Open 11:30 - 22:30, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat
13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €15. PTJA6S
30 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 31 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
NEW
DINE
Boasting two very different dining rooms (one dark, one
light) this magic new place is brought to you by the same
team behind the legendary Time. The menu is short yet
CAFÉS
AJ ŠOKOLADAS
A local cafe offering coffee with a street garden on the
pretty Pilies street close to the cathedral. The main pull
here though are the delicious chocolates made daily in
Trakai and delivered fresh to the capital, which are sold
by the gramme, so you can be as picky as you like. Make
sure to take a snoop out back where there is a mock par-
lour made entirely out of chocolate - a dream room for a
kid like Augustus Gloop from Charlie and the Chocolate
Factory.QC-2, Pilies 8, tel. (+370) 655 955 55, www.
ajsokoladas.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Also at Gedimino
46, Vokiečių 6, Gedimino 9. PTJA
LINO SAMĖNO KAVINĖ
What used to be chef Linas Samėnas‘ flagship res-
taurant was recently turned into a cafe serving some
choice food alongside the coffee. You can expect
homemade pizza, quiche, soup, salads, burgers and a
wide choice of desserts including tiramisu, chocolate
mousse, unforgettable chocolate truffles, biscuits,
cakes and a lot more. It is all very good. Wash it down
with fresh fruit juice, milk and ice cream cocktails.QD-
5, Subačiaus 16/23, tel. (+370) 669 755 15. Open
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J6
ŠVIEŽIA KAVA
One of the country’s top coffee house chains, Šviežia
Kava’s Gedimino 9 outlet is housed inside a book-
shop no less, making for the perfect environment to
drink quality espresso and the like amidst a wealth of
literature. Keep an eye out for their other branches.
QB-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 53, www.
svieziakava.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 -
18:00. Also at Gedimino 35, Saltoniškių 9 (Panora-
ma), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Savanorių 22, J. Balčikonio 3.
PJAUSW
TIME OUT EAT & PLAY
While there’s not a great deal to eat, there’s certainly
plenty to play. As the alarming sound of machine guns
attests, the dark basement is a “play zone” with bean-
bags set around three screens ready for PS4 games like
the latest versions of Call of Duty, Killzone, Need for
Speed, FIFA and other controller-gripping delights. If
you’ve never played before, they’ll show you how. Pre-
packaged sandwiches, salads and muffins are the “eats”.
Sensibly there’s no alcohol on sale. Instead, try some
tasty cranberry-and-lemon tea.QA-3, Klaipėdos 3, tel.
(+370) 626 006 57. Open 10:00 - 23:00. PJAW
offer puree for kids as young as six months. The place itself is
bright and colourful, and if you haven’t got any kids to bring
here we recommend borrowing some.QB-4, Vokiečių 6,
tel. (+370) 5 261 06 20, www.kukumuku.lt. Open 12:00
- 21:00, Fri 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
21:00. €6. PTJA6UESW
MEDININKAI
One of Vilnius’ oldest and most well respected restaurants
serves up sumptuous international food in a white tablecloth
atmosphere in a choice of several halls as well as outside in a
lovely 16th-century courtyard during the summer. The menu
features all manner of good things, from fresh seafood to pasta
to some fine grilled meat, all overseen by an award-winning
chef who maintains high standards throughout. Part of the
classy Europa Royale hotel, diners can also take advantage of
the adjoining hotel bar before or after their meal.QC-5, Aušros
Vartų 8, tel. (+370) 600 864 91, www.medininkai.lt. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €12. TJASW
MOON GARDEN
In one word: perfect. In a lot more words, this is a stun-
ning restaurant decked out in a rather delightful mix of
exposed brickwork, ironwork and white leather. Every-
thing about the place oozes class, from the napkins to the
superb service and the food, which is why you will come.
The menu is deliciously brief, and changes regularly. We
ate some terrific beef with tomatoes, lentils, leeks and ap-
ple puree, and for dessert the equally impressive passion
fruit mousse. The homemade bread is seriously good and
the wine list as good as anywhere in the city. Prices high
but so is value for money.QC-5, Bazilijonų 10, tel. (+370)
5 219 99 49, www.moongardenhotel.com. Open 18:00 -
22:00. Closed Sun. €10. TJA6W
NERINGA
A former nomenklatura favourite and still pulling in the
cream of the city’s slightly older sophisticates, this posi-
tively mammoth restaurant features two dining halls sepa-
rated by a bar with a fountain in it. Of particular interest
are the original 1959 murals, protected by the State along
with much of the rest of the interior. The international food
on offer is good, honest fare, although not likely to win
any awards. The desserts are particularly fine, making this
marvellous institution a good place to visit regardless of
whether you’re after a full meal or not.QA-1, Gedimino
23, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 58, www.restoranasneringa.lt.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 -
24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. €7. PTJAUESW
PRIE KATEDROS
Two recent visits to Prie Katedros have both been entirely
positive, not least in part to the totally superb beer they
brew on the premises of which the honey variety tastes
like no other beer we’ve tasted and leaves one delightfully
wobbly after just a couple. The food is also magnificent,
with the soups worthy of a massive round of applause on
their own. The beer snacks are excellent too, plus there’s
free wireless internet and a spooky-looking hologram to
greet you at the bottom of the stairs.QB-2, Gedimino 5,
tel. (+370) 605 775 55, www.priekatedros.lt. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €9. PTJASW
QPOLO
The life-sized black horse masquerading as a standard
lamp goes some way to explaining the ethos behind
Qpolo, an unpronounceable restaurant whose combined
surrealist elements add rather than subtract to the overall
charm of the place. Tucked away in a small courtyard and
featuring a peaceful summer courtyard (in the right sea-
son), the menu is simple but good, featuring everything
from soup in the largest soup bowls we’ve ever seen to
wok-fried noodles to one of the best burgers in town
that miraculously manages to fill your stomach without
emptying your wallet. Trendy it may be, but there’s no
crime in that, especially when the food is this good.QA-4,
Basanavičiaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 32 39. Open 11:00 -
24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. €5. JA6SW
RIVERSIDE
Consistently great food and service courtesy of this ex-
emplary in-house hotel restaurant, the well-chosen inter-
national menu may not be the cheapest in the city but is
worth the trip over the river to sample from it. As well as
serving one of the best buffet breakfasts in town, there’s
also an excellent buffet lunch and plenty of dishes from the
menu until late. The outdoor summer terrace, opposite the
increasingly popular area by the river, is a fine place to visit,
even if only for a drink.QA-00, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson
Blu Hotel Lietuva), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 21, www.riverside.
lt. Open 06:30 - 23:00. €13. PTAULSW
NEW
SIDRO NAMAI
Very good indeed. The first cider restaurant in Lithuania,
which serves some rather good food alongside what is
very much its raison d’etre: cider. They stock no fewer than
15 craft ciders from the UK, and one from Spain. You can
buy them to go at the little shop attached.QA-3/4, Pylimo
22d, tel. (+370) 610 293 04. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. €10. PTJAUSW
SOLE RESPUBLIKA
This popular Užupis venue is now better than ever. It
knows its history too: on the ceilings are paintings of Na-
poleon’s army and tributes to the Lithuanian Uhlans who
served in it. Decorated with loads of colourful touches
(not least the green tiled floor) it is brilliant in summer but
equally good when it gets colder: sitting at one of the win-
dows looking out on the Užupis Angel is a treat. The food
is good and highly creative (we ate a superb cheesecake
with raspberry sauce) and there is a great lunchtime deal
(which runs until 16:00). Good steak, great salads and ser-
vice charming, much like the place itself. Go there.QD-3,
Užupio 10, tel. (+370) 687 310 59, www.solerespublika.
lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €8. PTJA6W
beautifully put together and changes daily, so individual
recommendations are pointless. For what it’s worth, on our
visit we ate a pumpkin soup with goat cheese which tasted
as colourful as it looked, as well as a delicious tagliatelle with
goose meatballs. Whatever is on the menu when you go,
expect tasty, inventive food presented gorgeously but with-
out pretension. Prices are affordable and given the quality,
a bargain. The wine list is a gem.QG-3, Gedimino 35, tel.
(+370) 672 232 72. Mon - Fri 11:30 - 15:00, 17:30 - 22:00,
Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €12. PJASW
DRUSKOS NAMAI
We didn’t include Druskos Namai in our last issue as they
were in the process of moving to a new location. Now that
we have seen the new place for ourselves we are happy to
once again sing its praises, for this really is one of the best
restaurants in the land. Everything (or almost everything)
is locally sourced, seasonal, and prepared with some style.
The menu changes daily so individual recommendations
are pointless: rest assured however that should you dine
here you will find plenty which is innovative and extremely
tasty. You usually need a reservation at the weekend.QC-4,
Savičiaus 6, tel. (+370) 5 215 30 04, www.druskosnamai.
lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €13. PTJAVSW
ESSE
A bustling restaurant in the city centre, find well-trained
staff ferrying a cavalcade of good-looking international
dishes with a leaning towards European cuisine to a wide
range of clientèle from local business professionals to tour-
ists. Among the favourite fare on offer are the mussels in a
wine and cream sauce, plus there’s also over 100 wines to
choose from either from the menu or at unbeatable prices
from the attached shop. For those who can’t stand to be
away from the office for too long, also find free wireless
internet.QG-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 686 004 88,
www.esse.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €10. PTJAESW
KITCHEN
An angular experience with plenty of creamy shades and
exposed wooden features, this simple offering not only
keeps the décor to a minimum but also doesn’t get carried
away with the menu. The recommended dishes on offer
include a recently eaten plate of miniature fishcakes that de-
spite their laughable size tasted superb. There’s an extensive
wine list too. A good choice for those wanting to impress
without breaking the bank.QC-4, Didžioji 11, tel. (+370)
688 805 58. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €8. PTJASW
KUKUMUKU
A little bit of heaven for parents, KukuMuku is a split-level
venue with dining and a kids’ theatre upstairs (there’s chil-
dren’s theatre every Friday, Saturday and Sunday) and a
playground, Lego and games room downstairs. On each
table (if you are lucky enough to get one) you will find a box,
inside of which is your menu, pencils for coloring, and some
games. The food is good - both for kids and for adults - and
they have a range of dishes for kids with allergies. They even
32 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 33 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
SONNETS
That rare treat a hotel restaurant worth eating in, the
Shakespeare’s in-house nosh-pit excels where others
barely get off the ground. Sumptuous and elegant, every-
thing here is polished to near perfection. A diverse menu
tempts diners with all manner of delicacies from classic
Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All overseen
by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a
little heavy but is worth every penny.QD-2, Bernardinų
8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, www.
shakespeare.lt. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 -
24:00. €12. PTJALSW
SOUL&PEPPER
Seriously good contemporary restaurant. From the exposed
brickwork and minimalist tables you know from the minute
you walk in you are dealing with a place that wants the food
to shine. The menu is Meditterannean, with some of the best
pasta (all made fresh on the premises) in the city. Offers a huge
range of imported cheeses and other treats, all of which can
be bought to take home in the restaurant’s superb little deli.
Add in some smooth sounds (often live jazz) and you will see
why it has become such a hit.QB-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370)
699 922 93. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. €10. PTJAUESW
STUDIO 9
Knowing Lithuania as well as we do, we thought this place
was almost certainly going to go off the boil soon after
opening but it just keeps getting better. Arguably one of the
best places in the city to eat and drink for many a year, Studio
9 wouldn’t look or feel out of place 1,000km further west.
Featuring their tremendous burger alongside a handsome
menu of other excellent and unpretentious dishes, eating
here is one option, but it’s also an excellent bar that serves
good draught Guinness and a DJ venue. Surplus to the friend-
ly service are a handful of intelligent touches such as hooks
for jackets under the aforementioned bar and plenty of
foam on the important parts of the ceiling to stop the music
bouncing around uncontrollably. Find it not inside the main
building but via a separate entrance to the left.QB-1, Gedi-
mino 9, tel. (+370) 698 529 99. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. €7. PJAESW
NEW
SWEET ROOT
We were impressed on our visit here. As the name sug-
gests, many of the dishes here feature local root vegeta-
bles, which are used in a variety of ways in combination
with meat and fish to create inventive dishes. The portions
are deliberately small, allowing you to choose a number of
them in order to taste a variety of different flavours: you
will want to when you see the menu. Best of all we liked
the unique desserts: Caramelised quail egg yolks with pine
syrup and sour milk cream. Bet you have never seen that
on a Vilnius menu before! Spartan interior only serves to
highlight the adventurousness of the food.QX-3, Užupio
22, tel. (+370) 685 607 67. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. €11. TJAW
TIME
We tend to steer clear of hotel restaurants in general but
we made a rare exception in the case of this recommended
eatery. Bright and swishy in an entirely unpretentious way,
find friendly staff on hand to serve dishes from a small but
very good daily menu of international dishes alongside
an inspired buffet. We opted for a simple vegetable soup
which not only looked good but that left the kind of glow-
ing feeling one only gets from quality cuisine. The accom-
panying French bread was perfect and crispy and came
with a great little bowl of flavoured butter. Perhaps not the
best location in town but worth a visit if you’re interested in
food made with imagination, a quality sadly lacking in most
Vilnius restaurants. Recommended. Note that on Sundays
they serve a good brunch from 12:30 - 16:30. €21.72.QA-6,
Mindaugo 27 (Comfort Hotel Lt), tel. (+370) 612 022 47.
Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 08:00 - 16:30. Breakfast menu served 07:00 - 10:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 11:00. €11. PTA6UW
VANILLE LOUNGE
One of the top restaurant/lounges in the city, Vanille
Lounge stands out from the crowd in what is Vilnius’s busi-
est nightlife and restaurant district because of its amazing
menu and the high quality of the superior French bistro
food. There is a seriously good drinks menu too, featuring
at least a few treats you will not find on too many other
bar menus in this town. There is a fixed-price lunch avail-
able until 15:30, while in the evening the place becomes
a night spot as much as a restaurant. There’s even a cigar
room if that’s your thing. Fresh flowers on the bar are a
superb touch.QA-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 603 615 32.
Open 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00
- 24:00. €10. PJAXW
VERANDA
Another Žvėrynas classic, Veranda is a great place to eat in,
to have too many beers with a friend in or to take a fussy
elderly relative to. The international and Lithuanian food is
surprisingly good plus there’s a superb selection of booze
including Guinness, Leffe and draught Bernard. There’s live
music several evenings a week, and out the back is a large
garden complete with barbecue for splendidly lazy Sun-
day summer afternoons.QF-2, Kęstučio 39, tel. (+370) 5
273 01 07. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00.
€7. TAESW
ZOE’S BAR & GRILL
A long-standing Vilnius favourite that more often than
not gets included on a list of recommended places to visit
when we’re asked by newcomers to the city for a good
place to eat, Zoe’s manages to consistently get everything
right from its enviable location to the eclectic menu of
classic food. Featuring everything from their recommend-
ed BLT to their excellently priced Thai dishes, this year sees
the place expanding their outside seating even further
and bringing with it one or two gimmicks to keep visiting
and easily bored children amused. Throwing in a few mod-
ern twists such as DJs at the weekend, Zoe’s is more or less
perfect for a simple snack to a full blown spread for large
groups. Note that at the time of going to press the kitchen
was closing an hour earlier than the bar with the excep-
tion of Sundays. Also rents out mopeds: from an hour to
a whole week. Vroom!QB-2, Odminių 3, tel. (+370) 5 212
33 31, www.zoesbargrill.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. €10. PTJAES
ITALIAN
DA ANTONIO
An old favourite with several embassies in town, Da Antonio
is everything an Italian restaurant should be. Classy without
any unnecessary frills and with superb people-watching
windows at the front, native Italian chef Manfredo Molteni
oversees a menu including fresh fish soup, grilled beef fil-
let and a wealth of great pasta dishes for meat eaters and
vegetarians alike. There’s a great choice of Italian wines to
compliment plus some truly gut-busting desserts for those
who can cram a little more in.QA-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370)
5 262 01 09, www.antonio.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. €17. PTJASW
FIORENTINO
A good choice of Tuscan dishes with accompanying
Tuscan wine, all overseen by an Italian from the region
with the kind of passion sadly almost never seen in
the city. Inside it’s all plain white interiors and specials
chalked on the blackboard, whilst the warmer months
add a magnificent 16th-century Renaissance courtyard
into the bargain. Tuscany is of course considered the
birthplace of the Renaissance, so it’s rather fitting that
the restaurant should be here. Brilliant stuff.QC-3, Uni-
versiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 09 25, www.forentino.lt.
Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €7. TJAW
MAMA‘S CAFÉ
A rather striking place: bright, light (complete with a
roof which is partly glass) and starkly modernist in de-
sign Mama’s Cafe offers simple if relatively good food
in a rather different environment to much of Old Town.
The ambience is relaxed and welcoming, and the best
feature is the lovely courtyard, perfect at this time of
year. Service is good although the staff were - on our
visit - a little rushed off their feet with a private party.
Nevertheless it’s a good lunchtime choice (and note that
they have a set lunch menu on weekdays). Oh, one more
thing: take note of the staff recommendations, they
know what they’re talking about.QC-5, Arklių 18, tel.
(+370) 640 612 44. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €6.
PTJA6US
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34 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 35 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
OSTERIA DA LUCA
Not your typical Italian restaurant, Osteria da Luca opts
for a more nouvelle cuisine approach to its cooking and
does it well. Situated inside a fine Old Town building with a
snazzy dining area at ground level and an atmospheric cel-
lar, there’s also the option during the summer on its small
outdoor terrace opposite the fine Franciscan Church.QB-
4, Trakų 11/2, tel. (+370) 679 594 20. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €7. PASW
ST. VALENTINO
An unbeatable location and years of terrific service mark
St. Valentino out as one of Vilnius’ most beloved and re-
spected restaurants. Certainly, the city’s business commu-
nity continues to favour the place over any other, and it
is easy to see why. The often adventurous Italian food is
a cut above the norm (try the duck liver ravioli), and the
cosy, clever interior layout affords discretion and privacy
for those who require it. More than recommended.QB-3,
Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 652 657 77, www.stvalentino.
lt. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 -
24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €10. PTJASW
TRATTORIA DA FLAVIO
The exuberant owner Flavio has turned this hotel restaurant
into a very Italian affair serving excellent food. We felt like
kings with the great staff fussing over every detail: they really
want to make you feel welcome. The menu changes several
times per week and is written on a board in Italian: the staff
will translate and explain it to you in detail. We ate involtini
alla messinese with tomatoes and oregano, and it was deli-
cious. The tiramisu was just as it should (unlike many others in
Lithuania).QB-5, Ligoninės 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 48 46. Open
18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €11. TJA6SW
VAPIANO
Redolent of a millionaire’s greenhouse, it’s all stone, marble
and oak with a particular emphasis on flora and natural
light in here, the perfect environment in fact for qual-
ity Italian food in the city. Featuring open kitchens making
pasta, salads and pizza, the food is made using fresh in-
gredients and comes in ample portions. We’ve eaten here
four times now and can’t complain at all. A super place to
eat in an area crying out for this kind of quality. Note that
the kitchen closes 30 minutes before they lock the doors.
QA-00, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5 238 34 89,
www.vapiano.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
€6. PTASW
Vapiano, SC Europa
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JAPANESE
LABUKI
With suave surroundings and a choice of rooms including
a main area with large windows overlooking the Town
Hall, Labuki offers a wealth of dishes to please all tastes and
budgets. The good-looking sushi sets are well priced and
flavoured, the tempura is terrific and the solitary noodle
dish with beef is absolutely out of this world. The Korean
chef also makes a mean soup and the classic Oriental des-
serts are very good indeed. There are fresh flowers on the
tables, the service is friendly and there’s also a good value
business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat with a
knife and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when
ordering their food.QC-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 261 11
88, www.labuki.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €10. PJA 
VSW
MIYAKO
Miyako provides the full Japanese experience without
shoving it down your throat. What you should shove down
your throat are selections from the sushi and sashimi
menus, all prepared in the front bar area, and all very good
indeed for Vilnius.QA-00, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel.
(+370) 618 521 12, www.miyako.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00. €7. PTASW
KOREAN
TASTE - JHK AND DD’S PLACE
Given that Vilnius has never had a decent Korean res-
taurant it is easy to see why this place is so popular. The
welcome you get from the amazing staff is overwhelm-
ing, and prepares you well for the food, which is equally
impressive. Let the staff recommend you something: we
went for the saewoobulgogi seafood barbeque: not cheap
but well worth the price. Make sure you try the Sujeong-
gwa: traditional Korean punch made with cinnamon (and
much else) served in a teapot for bargain €2.60.QC-4,
Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 659 269 09, www.koreantaste.lt.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. €12. PT 
JASW
ICE-CREAM
SOPRANO
Our last outing here involved entertaining a couple of
under-sevens who demolished so much cake and ice
cream they had to be hosed down before leaving. The
treats on offer really are exceptionally good at any time
of year. QC-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 60 42, www.
soprano.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. PJASW
VEGETARIAN
BALTI DRAMBLIAI
One of the oldest vegetarian restaurants in Vilnius is
still going strong, more than 13 years after first open-
ing its cellar doors. The menus offer a decent range
of veggie food from around the world, including shiva
puri, potato parata, fried eggplant with rice and salad
and some splendid Tibetan dumplings stuffed with
paneer. It’s all decent if not special and has the bo-
nus of being relatively cheap. Wash it all down with
Ayurvedic teas or a banana lassi.QB-3, Vilniaus 41, tel.
(+370) 5 262 08 75. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue
11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. €4. PJA
NAMAI
Vegetarian family restaurant. Namai means Home in
Lithuanian, and this small restaurant looks just that:
a homely kitchen complete with a dining room. Inti-
mate, there aren’t that many tables (and one of those
is a small one with little seats for children). The menu
is a brief affair which changes daily. A good lunchtime
offer consists of soup and a main course (and the soup
comes with Namai’s wonderful home-made bread).
Very good.QC/D-5, Subačiaus 6, tel. (+370) 607 843
99. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Tue 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. €6. TJA6S
36 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 37 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
LITHUANIAN
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant
in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features
pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of
potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminis-
cent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down,
and is perhaps best described as a restaurant or café
serving predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian
favourites in an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere
other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best inten-
tions of the good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call
the former of the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list
both types of restaurant together.
FOREST
Traditional with a twist, Forest is one of those places
which is determined to prove that Lithuanian cuisine
can be progressive. Simple yet innovative, expect su-
perb grilled meats and some of the best salads in the city
alongside specials such as gnocchi and pacheri. It’s all
prepared fresh on the premises using the finest seasonal
ingredients, and is served in a bright, contemporary set-
ting. Well worth your time and money.QB-4, Vokiečių
8, tel. (+370) 698 167 28, www.restoranasforest.lt.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Also at Žirmūnų 2, Savanorių 1. €7.
PTJAUSW
FORTO DVARAS
This perfectly located restaurant on the busiest street in
Old Town provides consistently good food at affordable
prices. Complete with colour photographs to help you
choose, the menu is packed with classic dishes including
the marvellous kepta duona, a good choice when waiting
for a main dish, soup served in a loaf of bread and some
simple but recommended desserts. We recently had the
borsch with meat followed by some truly outstanding
potato pancakes with bacon and mushroom sauce of
which both can also be ordered for vegetarians. The ser-
vice is friendly and efficient.QC-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370)
656 136 88, www.fortodvaras.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €5.
TJASW
GRAF ZEPPELIN
One of the city’s more clever anomalies, bask in an-
tiquity and fill yourself up with what’s claimed to be
the largest cepelinai in the capital. The good value
menu is made up of a range of Lithuanian and Ger-
man dishes, most notably the aforementioned blimps
which now feature as the Lithuanian national dish. All
in all a great place for a full blown, gut-busting meal
and an equally enjoyable atmosphere when they’re
busy.QC-4, Savičiaus 9, tel. (+370) 674 629 49, www.
grafzeppelin.lt. Open 11:45 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 -
18:00. €8. PJASW
LOKYS
One of Vilnius’ best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear)
opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in
1972 in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating
back to the late 15th century and has been serving so-
called traditional hunters’ dishes amidst a slightly tongue-
in-cheek backdrop ever since. The limited menu focuses
on unusual dishes including quail, venison and even bea-
ver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep everybody
happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you can
rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experi-
ence.QC-4, Stiklių 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys.
lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €13. JAW
MYKOLO 4
Holy Miko’s has changed its name to Restoranas-Bistro
Mykolo 4, and it is not just the name which is changed
either. Having become known as a restaurant which
served a bit of everything, the place now concentrates
on developing and showcasing Lithuanian cuisine (al-
though the wine list, thankfully, remains an interna-
tional one). Seasonal, fresh, local ingredients are used,
and the menu changes regularly.QC-3, Šv. Mykolo 4,
tel. (+370) 688 222 10, www.mykolo4.lt. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 -
21:00. €10. PTJASW
čiop čiop
Recipe books are all well and good up to a point,
but you can’t beat expert knowledge from an ex-
perienced chef in the heat of a real kitchen. Enter
Čiop Čiop, a company specialising in teaching
modern Lithuanian cuisine in several languages
and using local produce. Recipes are diverse and
feature everything from caramelised beetroot to
glazed duck with wild berry sauce, sour cream with
thyme and hazelnuts to kastinys. Courses run from
between two and four hours depending on how
many dishes you want to learn about and subse-
quently cook and either take place on Čiop Čiop’s
premises or they can come to you. QC-1, Žvejų 2,
tel. (+370) 663 666 67, skanu@ciopciop.lt, www.
ciopciop.lt. PTJW
Šaltibarščiai
38 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 39 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
SENOJI TROBELĖ
This intimate, folk-themed restaurant is unquestionably
one of the best examples of its kind in the country. We like
the place, especially on a sunny day when it’s possible to
eat and drink on their fine terrace. The food is classic un-
pretentious local cuisine, tastes good and is equally superb
value for money. If you’d like to take a little piece of the
place home (and believe us, you will), their unique crock-
ery is available for sale.QG-5, Naugarduko 36, tel. (+370)
609 990 02, www.senojitrobele.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €7. TAULSW
LOCAL SEASONAL FOOD
LA STORIA
Just perfect. A tiny yet cosy restaurant with just seven or so
tables. Duties are shared between the two owners: Maria
runs around serving, Arūnas cooks. We ate chanterelles
with potatoes and cream sauce, and probably the best
ever panna cotta with strawberries we’ve eaten. The menu
changes every few days, with the emphasis always on only
the very freshest, natural ingredients. Highly recommend-
ed.QC-4, Savičiaus 6, tel. (+370) 616 806 80. Open 12:00
- 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €13. TJA6ES
MEXICAN
SOFA DE PANCHO
We like what’s currently going on in this part of town. De-
velopment may be slow, but it’s always interesting. Sofa de
Pancho may not have any Mexicans working in the open
kitchen but that doesn’t stop them from being enthusias-
tic and actually not too bad at cooking. Probably the best
thing about the place though, like the bar next door, is that
everything’s been thrown together in a jumble-sale fash-
ion that quite simply adds a touch of class to a city with just
too many sterile restaurants. Try the breakfast tortillas if
you’re feeling brave and don’t do what we did and turn up
on a Tuesday evening assuming there’d be a table. Reserve
in advance to avoid disappointment.QB-5, Visų Šventųjų
5, tel. (+370) 673 890 02. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 -
22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €11. TJA6S
YUCATAN
Simple yet good, Yucatan does what it does - Mexican
food - very well indeed. In a sunken location we ate the
toasted beef taco and with marinated shrimps as a starter.
Both took a while to arrive, but while the beef could have
been slightly tenderer, everything tasted great. The friend-
ly waitress who took our order was patient and courteous,
and went out of her way to find us some white wine which
we were initially told was not available.QA-2, Pylimo 2/6,
tel. (+370) 676 392 34. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 05:00. Closed Sun. €6. J6ESW
MIDDLE ASIAN
KINZA
A ten minute or so walk from the Old Town, Kinza is
a relaxed kind of place serving a wide variety of very
good food from all over Asia and the Middle East. We
ate chalop and an Uzbek lamb pilaf with tomato and on-
ion salad that was just about perfect. The venue itself is
brilliantly designed, split between one main dining area
and various other smaller break-out rooms all with a dif-
ferent purpose (drinks, smoking hookah pipes, private
dining in small groups etc). It’s good.QA-4/5, Naugar-
duko 14, tel. (+370) 611 444 14. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €6.
PTJASW
MOROCCAN
MAGHRIB
Be prepared for yet another welcome addition to Vilnius’
currently blossoming restaurant scene, now in a new lo-
cation on Užupio. This small and decidedly friendly little
restaurant serves a good choice of authentic Moroccan
fare from spicy soups to couscous to an excellent sweet
and pungent lamb dish cooked and served in a traditional
tajine. In keeping with the local need to stare at something
whilst eating there’s a large television on the wall, usu-
ally playing a slide show of images of Morocco. The mint
tea is also a real winner, served as it should be in a glass
and made from green tea leaves and fresh mint. Recom-
mended.QX-3, Užupio 22-3, tel. (+370) 698 056 67. Open
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. €9. PTJA6SW
FAST FOOD
MCDONALD’S
Often full to overflowing with lovestruck Lithuanian
teenagers, middle-aged English staggers dressed as
rabbits and the inevitable huddle of people who’d
never be seen dead in the place but that can often
be found there, everything in this city centre branch
tastes like it does in every other McDonald’s on the
planet. The number one spot in town to make an
anti-political statement whilst sitting at one of the
little tables by the window and watching the hordes
drift by.QA-1, Gedimino 15, tel. (+370) 685 421 78,
www.mcd.lt. Open 07:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 05:00, Sun 07:00 - 01:00 (main restaurant). Open
00:00 - 05:00, 06:00 - 00:00 (small window). Also at
Seinų 3, Kareivių 13, Ukmergės 173, Ozo 25 (Akropo-
lis). €4. PTJASW
SUBWAY
Subway became an instant hit in Vilnius when it first
opened in the summer of 2014, and it’s easy to see
why. Magnificent, well-priced sandwiches and much
else, all put together in no time at all by friendly staff.
Stays open until very late: handy if you get hungry after
leaving a club.QB/C-4, Vokiečių 7, tel. (+370) 212 35
56. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00,
Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €3. PJA6US
NEW NORDIC CUISINE
NEW
NAKED BITE OF CONTEMPORARY CUISINE
Contemporary Nordic cuisine, where the emphasis is always
on making the best use of only the freshest, local ingredients.
Housed in an Old Town building characterized by an arched
ceiling the place itself is small, yet has an air of exclusivity: this
is an exceptional restaurant. Offers a good value three-course
lunch and an amazing five course dinner. Having brought the
dish to your table, the friendly young waiters explain what it
is! Boasts 17 kinds of grappa.QB/C-3/4, Žydų 2/12, tel. (+370)
623 134 55. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Lunch €6.37
and 7.82. Dinner €24.62. PJAW
Cepelinai
40 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 41 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
HOME DELIVERY
Too lazy or hungover to go out and get something to eat? The following all provide home delivery services. Delivery
charges range from free to €6 depending on venue and total cost of order.
Venue Tel. Website Open Cuisine
CANCAN PIZZA (+370) 659 887 77 www.cancan.lt
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00
- 23:00
Pizza
ČILI 1822 www.1822.lt
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00.
Chinese, Sushi,
Lithuanian, Pizza,
DIDŽIOJI KINIJA (+370) 5 263 63 63 www.kinuvirtuve.lt
11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00
Chinese
LABUKI (+370) 686 884 88 www.lekste.lt
11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 
Japanese, Korean
MANO GURU (+370) 5 212 01 26 www.manoguru.lt
Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 20:00.
Salad,
international
MIYAKO (+370) 618 521 12 www.sushi.lt
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00.
Japanese
SUBMARINE (+370) 5 233 33 23 www.submarinas.lt
10:00 - 22:30, Sun 11:00 -
22:30
Pizza,
international
SUE’S INDIAN
RAJA
(+370) 5 266 18 88 www.suesindianraja.lt 11:00 - 23:00 Indian
TIFLISI DUKANI (+370) 656 228 05 www.tiflisi.lt
11:30 - 21:00, Fri 11:30 - 22:00,
Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00
- 21:00
Georgian
PANCAKES
LA CREPE
As the name suggests, La Crepe’s tour de force is the hum-
ble, French-style pancake, which it does very well indeed
and, unlike at many other pancake places in town, it does
to order. The perfect accompaniment to coffee and there-
fore one of the best sources of fuel for visitors covering Vil-
nius on foot, the range of fillings is admirable, from sweet
to savoury to vegetarian. Also on the menu for those who
require more than a mouthful of egg and jam is a selec-
tion of more substantial Lithuanian and international
dishes. Their summertime La Crepe Terrasse, on top of the
city’s VCUP shopping centre just north of the river, comes
with terrific views of the capital alongside a regular series
of themed evening events including film screenings and
jazz concerts.QA-1, Gedimino 13, tel. (+370) 616 465 49,
www.lacrepe.lt. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Also at Konstitucijos
16 (VCUP). €5. PJASW
PIZZA
Quite possibly the most popular food eaten in Lithuanian
restaurants today, you can’t swing a cat in the capital with-
out hitting a 30cm margherita or quattro formaggi. As in
many countries in the region, pizzas in Lithuania are eaten
with frightening amounts of tomato ketchup and little re-
gard for the feelings of the Italians who’d in general much
rather go hungry than have to endure a local pica.
BASILICO
Sat on a corner next to a bus stop and an abandoned
cinema Basilico is easily overlooked, which is a shame
because they currently serve the best pizza in Vilnius.
Using proper mozzarella and baked in a wood oven,
these reasonably priced masterpieces are best eaten
with fresh basil which is provided by a plant dumped
on the table by one of the waitresses after you order.
Popular with families and busy during the week, as if the
pizza isn’t temptation enough they even make their own
pasta. Very recommended indeed.QA-4, Pylimo 21, tel.
(+370) 650 516 80, www.basilico-pica.lt. Open 11:00 -
24:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 23:00.
Also at A. Goštauto 40c. €9. PTJA6SW
ČILI PICA
Domination of the local market means either an element
of bad business practice or the ability to get things right,
which in the case of this long-standing chain of pizza
restaurants the latter most definitely applies. True, an
Italian may not be overly impressed with the pizzas but
there’s plenty else on the menu which, in the case of
the grilled meat dishes is usually very good indeed and
affordable for all but the most budget-conscious travel-
lers. We’ve recently been experimenting with their small
breakfast menu and have been impressed with the ex-
cellent value omelettes and the fried eggs with toast
and salad. It’s also worth mentioning that the service
is never bad, and can at times be exceptionally excel-
lent.QA-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90 71, www.cili.
lt. Open 08:00 - 03:00, Fri 08:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 -
06:00, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. Also at Didžioji 5. €4. PT 
JAVSW
JURGIS IR DRAKONAS
Jurgis is the local name for George, and the dragon is the
shapely pizza oven. A very popular place, just like its previous
incarnation, expect it to be very busy all day long, and as they
do not take reservations you may need to wait. We say the wait
is well worth it, as the short menu of (mostly) pizzas, plus a
few other things is very good. This is one of the best places
to have a pizza in Vilnius, given that just about everything -
including the flour - is brought from Italy.QA-3/4, Pylimo 22d,
tel. (+370) 600 779 77, www.jurgisirdrakonas.lt. Open 11:00
- 22:00. €7. PTJASW
PIZZA HUT EXPRESS
Under new management and a much better experience
all round, Lithuania’s adventures into the world of pizza
franchising are finally worth talking about with a positive
spin. The slice of deep-pan pizza we recently gobbled
down hit the spot exactly.QH-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370)
5 259 61 28. Open 10:00 - 22:00. €4. PTAUSW
POMODORO
After numerous visits to several Pomodoro restaurants
it’s still almost impossible to fault them. For the price, the
pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak
continues to amaze and impress. Service is attentive, and
the early morning pancakes continue to be a fine way
to start the day.QA-2, Vilniaus 15, tel. (+370) 5 269 00
22, www.pomodoro.lt. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00
- 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Also at P.
Lukšio 32. €7. PTJAUSW
UŽUPIO PICERIJA
Parked in a street just around the corner from the Užupis
Angel, this tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy or
dead as a door nail. Whatever state it’s found in, the pizza
they serve is decent enough if not exactly gourmet. Eschew
the other meals and stick to the house food and you’ll be
just fine. Service is of course amusing, and the outdoor seat-
ing during the warmer part of the year is exceedingly pleas-
ant.QD-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215 36 66. Open 08:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €5. JASW
RUSSIAN
ČAGINO
Named after the one-time owner of the building this res-
taurant finds itself, this hit-and-miss Russian affair offers
classics such as chicken with smoked plums and blini in
a splendid, 19th-century cellar. Although it may not be
the best Russian restaurant in the world, it’s practically
the only one in Vilnius these days. Weekends can be ex-
ceptionally good fun, with live music, lots of vodka and
large groups of diners getting beautifully sloshed.QA-3, J.
Basanavičiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 261 55 55, www.cagin.lt.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €7. PJAES
SALAD
MANO GURU
Opened way back in August 2004 and still going strong,
the recommended Mano Guru offers a mind-boggling
array of substantial salads plus desserts and soft drinks
in something of a boutique setting. Popular particularly
with women watching their weight, other people are
encouraged to visit not least because of the idea behind
the place. Begun on the initiative of local legend and res-
urrected mayor of Vilnius Artūras Zuokas, over half of the
staff working here are recovering drug addicts involved in
what’s probably the most enlightened project in the city,
and one that’s well worth supporting.QB-2, Vilniaus 22/1,
tel. (+370) 5 212 01 26, www.manoguru.lt. Open 07:00
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. €4. TJAVSW
RAW
RAW42
Located in a little triangle of Vilnius currently making
something of a name for itself, the food stretches be-
yond sandwiches and they even offer short courses in
making food. Very trendy and very welcome, note that
none of the food is cooked at a temperature higher
that +42°C.QB-5, Rūdninkų 12, tel. (+370) 659 685
45. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 22:00, Sat
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €5. JASW
RAW RAW
Good healthy food made from unprocessed ingredi-
ents with almost nothing on the menu cooked, the
selection of dishes on offer is fairly extensive, including
everything from vitamin-packed salads to pasta dishes
made from vegetables. Also a good selection of freshly
squeezed fruit juices.QC-2, Totorių 3, tel. (+370) 699
520 22, www.rawraw.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. €5. PTJASW
42 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 43 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
STEAK
BÖFF STEAK HOUSE VILNIUS
It would be really good news if Böff actually delivers on a
regular basis what it promises, namely the best steaks in
the country in pleasant surroundings. To be fair they’ve
got off to a good start since opening a while back in a
modern setting with a few nods to the past just north
of river. Let’s hope the good news continues. As for the
food itself, the steaks are very good indeed, plus there’s
burgers and fish and a range of good soups to start plus
a handful of desserts and drinks to wash it all down with.
Although the location could be a lot better, it’s actually
not that far to reach over the bridge if you’re in the area
around the National Museum, or, even closer, the excel-
lent Lithuanian Energy and Technology Museum.QC-1,
Olimpiečių 1, tel. (+370) 663 509 69, www.bof.lt.
Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €29.
PTJASW
HAZIENDA STEAKHOUSE
A magnificent steak house, widely regarded as the best
in Lithuania, a title it has held for more than a decade
and a half. All of the raw material is sourced locally from
the finest beef farms, where cattle graze on Lithuania’s
best grasslands. The restaurant can boast to know the
provenance of every single steak they serve, right down
to knowing what the cattle were fed. The setting - at the
charming Mabre hotel - is not to be overlooked either.
Magnificent.QD-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel), tel.
(+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
€17. PTJAW
MARKUS IR KO
Serving various bits of cow to those who can afford it for
as long as many care to remember, Markus ir Ko is an insti-
tution that fails to go away. Once famed for cooking the
best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely
upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by oth-
ers but still knocks out by almost everybody’s account a
damn fine steak.QC-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5
262 31 85, www.markusirko.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €17.
PTJAESW
MEAT LOVERS PUB
Cooking meat to perfection, we had a steak that couldn’t
be argued with, a soup that was up there with soups
costing five times as much and some pork that was ab-
solutely the best meat we’ve eaten in Vilnius for months.
The service is decent, and all things considered there
are few places offering better value in Vilnius right now.
QB-3, Šv. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 652 512 33, www.
meatloverspub.lt. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. €7. PTA6SW
ST. HUBERTUS
Name your game! The patron saint of hunters deliv-
ers on (almost) everything from boar to pigeon, the
classic-cut steaks from porterhouse to tomahawk, the
starters from Baltic herring to ceviche. Order a half-
lobster as an add-on to your steak. Unveiled in 2014,
we found the saint with a few teething problems as a
couple of items on the menu were not available. But
with a peaceful courtyard sheltered from the road and
the elements, and some amazing sauces giving further
flavour to the meat, we expect St. Hubertus to blossom.
QB-4, Vokiečių 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 65 73/(+370) 686
047 08, www.st-hubertus.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €15.
JAXW
SUSHI
SUSHI EXPRESS
Boasts the most impressively adventurous sushi menu
in Vilnius as well as the most skillful sushi chefs in the
city: add in some suitably contemporary design and you
have a winner. For the indecisive the set menus are good
value, and there are non-sushi bites too. There are two of
these places in Vilnius, and though neither is in the Old
Town if you crave decent sushi in this town then both are
well worth seeking out and thoroughly recommended.
QG-3, J. Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370) 699 693 43, www.
sushiexpress.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also at Konstitucijos 20, Verkių 29.
€4. PASW
TAPAS
NIÑO
The cracking little medieval cellar space under Cozy
now operates in the guise of a lounge-like tapas bar. The
delicacies in question more or less measure up to the real
thing, the English-speaking staff are frightfully nice and,
if you’re the type of person who doesn’t agree with fancy
food, it’s possible to spend hours down there soaking up
nothing more than the atmosphere and lots and lots of
alcohol. The attached restaurant-bar upstairs is pretty
good too.QB-3, Dominikonų 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37.
Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. €4. PJASW
UKRAINIAN
LELEKO
Don’t be put off by the folk art motifs covering the walls
nor for that matter by the staff in folk costumes because if
it’s Ukrainian food cooked well, which it is here, then the
Disneyland stuff doesn’t matter. Up at the far western end
of Gedimino just around the corner from the main street,
the walk is worth every bit of effort. There’s something
about Ukrainian food that, despite it mostly being the
same as the rest of the traditional food found in this part
of the world, stands head and shoulders above the rest.
Start with a cracking bowl of borsch and let the friendly
staff take you through the rest of the menu. Good value
and definitely recommended.QG-3, Gedimino 49/2, tel.
(+370) 633 304 37. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €5. TJASW
44 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 45 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
The Lithuanian capital’s disparate nightlife options run
the breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and
budget, from quiet cafés full of serious-looking men hud-
dled over a game of chess to steamy underground cav-
erns dedicated to the time-honoured pursuit of getting
ordinarily level-headed businessmen so horribly drunk
that they willingly empty the contents of their bank ac-
count inside a stripper’s knickers. Now that the city’s
wine-drinking crowd have been given their own places to
imbibe, Vilnius’ nightlife entrepreneurs are turning their
attention to the subject of beer, namely with the regular
opening of a new place selling brown frothy drinks made
in small microbreweries around the country. The best are
of course listed here. Clubs remain almost exclusively
mainstream, whilst the city’s gay and lesbian scene is
almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site.
Note that face control is currently on the rise in Vilnius: if
yours doesn’t ft, forget it. Wearing a decent pair of shoes
usually helps. Leave your trainers at home and have fun!
BARS
ALAUS STUDIJA
Exactly why it took just over a thousand years for somebody to
open a really outstanding bar in Vilnius is anyone’s guess, but
open it they finally did. True, the location could be more cen-
tral, but when it’s as good as this there’s no particular need to
complain. Selling only foreign beers alongside a few stronger
options and decorated with leftover technology from the re-
cently expired Lithuanian Film Studios, the Murphy’s is refresh-
ingly affordable and goes down a treat. A menu of bar snacks
is also available, plus there’s hot nachos and nuts. A taxi from
Old Town shouldn’t cost more than €3. Highly recommended.
QI-1, S. Žukausko 20, tel. (+370) 685 608 85. Open 11:00 -
01:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00.
PAW
ARTISTAI
Hidden in a picturesque little side street inside a rather
lovely courtyard, this very Vilnius-type place was once
known as Amerika, and has since changed practically
nothing except its name. Treading the fine line between
bar, restaurant and nightclub, Artistai attracts a mixed
crowd of mostly friendly locals, serves cheap food and
beer and has regular live music events to supplement the
otherwise orthodox disco nights.QC-4, Šv. Kazimiero 3,
tel. (+370) 5 212 12 68, www.artistai.lt. Open 11:00 -
02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 -
05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAESW
BIX
Started by the legendary rock band from Šiauliai of the
same name, the scruffy bar on two floors that is Bix is fairly
tame during the week but can get busy and full of testos-
terone-filled men in leather jackets during the weekend.
The two pool tables upstairs are a disaster, but quite good
fun after a few beers.QC-4, Etmonų 6, tel. (+370) 5 262
77 91, www.bix.lt. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 11:00
- 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 -
24:00. JAEW
BLUSYNĖ
One of the more quirky venues in the city, a bit of a draw
for arty types but a place which always has a warm wel-
come for just about anyone. Puts on events from time to
time, including the odd concert, reading or exhibition.
Add in decent food and drink at decent prices and you
have a place more than worth your time.QC-4, Savičiaus
5, tel. (+370) 699 627 51. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PJAW
CALIFORNIA TAPAS & WINE
Growing from strength to strength, it’s a breath of fresh air
to see a restaurant in Lithuania improve over time rather
than the usual opposite. Aiming to introduce tapas to the
local population among other things, this Spanish-themed
restaurant-bar on two floors provides a bit of everything,
from a first-floor café complete with open kitchen serv-
ing dishes including Basque fish soup to grilled meat to a
labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating
and drinking. QC-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 652 655 51,
www.california.lt. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 05:00. PJASW
CRAZY BULL
Crazy Bull is a sports’ bar brought to you by the good peo-
ple behind Salento. Besides loads of live sport on the many
televisions (including one genuinely enormous screen)
you can also bet right in the bar. The food is a cut above
standard sports’ bar fare: there are (very good) burgers
and ribs as you might expect, but you can also grab mus-
sels, big salads and a few other treats well worth trying.
Usually packed when there is a big game on, it is less busy
at other times.QC-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820 15.
Open 17:00 - 04:00, Fri 17:00 - 06:00, Sat 13:00 - 06:00,
Sun 13:00 - 04:00. PJAEW
NEW
DĖVĖTI
More ultra-casual spots like this are opening up in shady
corners across the city, and we welcome every one. Taps
pouring craft beers from northern Lithuania adorn the
bar. If it’s a cocktail you’re after, don’t expect the perfect
mojito. They’ll ask your preferences and make up a heady
mixture on the spot. The bar is hammered together from
blocks of wood. Under each table are paper towels and
buckets in case of spillages. A hip non-attitude crowd
chats to bouncy alt-jazz sounds. If you’re lucky, food may
be on offer, such as “yummy pork” or falafel. Opening time
depends on how drunk the bartenders were the previ-
ous evening.QB-5, Sodų 3, tel. (+370) 672 036 75. Open
11:30 - 01:00. JA6EW
DIRTY DUCK
There is much about this place that will have you coming
back for more than one visit. It is a contemporary pub and
bistro with a vaguely industrial feel serving a huge range
of good beer, a seriously decent selection of whiskies (in-
cluding a few from more exotic locations) and great food.
Indeed, the food is a cut above what you would expect
from a pub and can be placed firmly in the ‘top bistro’ cat-
egory. The pork rib with apple sauce we ate was superb,
and the lunchtime deal (available until 15:00) is very good
value. Service is good too.QC-4, Didžioji 28, tel. (+370) 5
231 26 41, www.dirtyduck.eu. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 06:00. PJAW
FORTAS
Despite its rather small beer collection, Fortas can do no
wrong. Perched up on top of the hill above Old Town, this
always busy spot plays host to everyone from shady-look-
ing Russian-speakers without any hair to immaculately
turned out Japanese tourists. It would be unfair to not to
also mention the food, which is consistently marvellous.
Top banana.QH-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 652 011 38,
www.fortas.eu. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAW
GLORY BAR BY STIKLIAI
The newest venue by the legendary Stikliai Hotel and Res-
taurant owners is this very upmarket club which has its eye
firmly set on attracting the city’s most happening people.
There is strict face-control (primarily designed to keep out
teenyboppers) and you will need to be well-dressed to
make it in. Even the DJs wear designer-labels: it is that kind
of place and Vilnius is all the better for it. This is where the
smart-set comes to party and feel superior: if you manage
to make it in and join them no doubt you will too.QC-5,
Aušros Vartų 5, tel. (+370) 618 064 08. Open 18:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAEW
46 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 47 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
MICROBREWERIES
ALYNAS
You will have to go a long way to find a better selec-
tion of beer than this place offers. Part of a wider chain
of beer shops, the main central location is a top venue
for serious connoisseurs of beer. Serving a number of
superior brews from microbreweries all around the
country, this is very much the thinking-man’s Vilnius
boozer. Get in.QA-2, Jogailos 6, tel. (+370) 650 687
52, www.alynas.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJAW
ŠNEKUTIS
Some of this is live, meaning it only lasts a few days, not
unlike the hangover that goes with the superb 12 per
cent Stačias from Panevėžys. A couple of large ones of
these and you might find yourself rolling down the mys-
terious staircase by the toilet. Should this happen, don’t
be surprised to find yourself fished out by the barman,
a personable gentleman with a theatrical moustache.
Highly recommended, and extremely popular, meaning
it’s not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench with
a strange Lithuanian man eating unidentified animal parts
from a bowl. Rare for Lithuania, Šnekutis doesn’t have
table service. Order at the bar. QB-5, Šv. Stepono 8, tel.
(+370) 650 470 58. Open 11:00 - 23:30. Also at Polocko
7a, Šv. Mikalojaus 15. PJAS
GRINGO
The first rum bar in Vilnius, which has friendly bar staff who
certainly make a change from many others in the area, and
the cold beers on offer are both well chosen and priced
(Gringo currently serves one of the best pints of Guinness
in the region). Also find the added incentives of free wire-
less internet and table football, as well as real football (in-
cluding the Premier League) and rugby on the TV.QA-2,
Vilniaus 31/1, tel. (+370) 654 905 41. Open 16:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. JAW
KAS KAS
Another addition to a street already overflowing with über-
trendy places to hang out, Kas Kas models itself at least in
part on the excellent Studio 9 although it doesn’t quite hit
the mark. The place has been decorated quite well and the
staff are quite friendly. The drinks on offer are also quite
good. On the absolutely positive side, if you do choose to
visit and were quite impressed like we were, there’s plenty
of other options hereabouts.QA-2, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370)
630 171 21. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00
- 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAEW
KING & MOUSE
Following on from the success of their similar Kaunas
venture, the owners of this relatively new place located
on what many believe to be Vilnius’ shortest street have
opened an intriguing venue for those who simply can’t get
enough whisky. Featuring over 300 types from around the
world as well as other offerings and plenty of decent food
to accompany it, everything is located inside three dif-
ferent rooms including two bar spaces and a further one
that also contains a shop. Surplus to the usual improvised
drinking sessions are a range of tasting events and such-
like for the connoisseur.QA-4, Trakų 2/Miesto Sienos, tel.
(+370) 657 454 78. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAW
LA BIRRA
A hit and miss affair, usefully located between Old Town and
the city’s main central street, La Birra’s worth a mention not
least because it shows international soccer games and has a
good selection of local and international beers. Not surpris-
ingly, it can get a little lively in here, especially when there’s
basketball on the screens, but it’s definitely worth popping
by if you’re out on the prowl. Check their Facebook page for
sports fixtures.QA-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 604 455 08.
Open 17:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAW
LEIČIAI
The next logical step in the evolution of the specialist
Lithuanian beer bar, Leičiai also doubles as a restaurant
serving classic traditional local food. As well as a space
for drinking the range of superb Lithuanian beers on offer
from small microbreweries around the country, this pleas-
ant watering hole also features two dining halls, one with
an open kitchen and a small beer garden out the back.QC-
4, Stiklių 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 90 87. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
PJASW
LIVERPOOL INDIE/ROCK BAR
There is something going on at this place virtually every
night of the week, and it almost always involves live music,
provided in the main by a wide variety of new artists, for
whom Liverpool is something of a showcase. Indeed, this
really is the best place for young rock and indie artists in
the city. It looks good too: modern and contemporary it is
nevertheless sticks to classic rock aesthetics and has very
quickly become a venue which is a real favourite of the
city’s live music buffs. Add in great service, good use of
technology (customers can have a say on the bar’s playl-
ist via an app) and you have a top venue well worth try-
ing out.QG-3, Gynėjų 14, tel. (+370) 646 529 50, www.
indierockbar.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu 16:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free
or €2 - 5. JAEW
MAŽASIS PUB’AS
This friendly old place has been around in one way or an-
other for years and currently provides liquid sustenance to
a crowd of mostly young fun-seekers who come for the
affordable Old Town beer prices and the live sport on the
television. Far from being one to add to an evening’s itiner-
ary, it does at least serve as a decent refuge for planning the
rest of the evening over a beer when you can’t get through
the doors in Cozy across the street.QB/C-3, Dominikonų 9,
tel. (+370) 678 833 63. Open Mon, Tue 11:00 - 24:00, Wed
11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00
- 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. PAW
PIANO MAN
Consistently busy during the weekend when propping
up the bar is generally the only option left for people ar-
riving after 21:00, the mixed and predominantly chirpy
crowd at Piano Man provides a buzz lacking in many of
its competitors. The bar stocks a good range of drinks in-
cluding draught Guinness and Hoegaarden, there’s table
football in the corner and from time to time there’s also
the added bonus of live music. An excellent choice indeed
for anyone looking for a place to add to their pub crawl
or for staying the course and spending the entire evening
here.QA-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 630 099 49. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00
- 04:00. PJAW
NEW
REPUBLIC NO. 4
Three of these English-style pubs are already huge in
Kaunas. This is their big move to the capital. The big draw:
20 beers on tap and 30 bottled, plus countless whiskies.
Sit around a handmade oak bar or on plush leather seat-
ing surrounded by English paraphernalia and football
scarves, and munch on spicy nachos, juicy steaks, burg-
ers, Caesar salads and the like. Try the delicious beef salad
with balsamic sauce. Best Lithuanian beer: the hard-to-
find Nežinomas krantas (Unknown Coast) with its taste
like strong red wine.QA/B-2, Vilniaus 27, tel. (+370) 614
448 44. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 -
06:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. PJAW
48 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 49 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
SARKOZY
A combined shop and bar specialising in products derived
from the humble apple, in particular some truly excep-
tional cider from Normandy, Sarkozy represents precisely
what Vilnius is in dire need of, namely venues that eschew
the safe and mundane themes the capital’s drinking es-
tablishments usually go for. Already popular with the city’s
moneyed intellectual crowd as well as other characters
who simply like their cider, they also sell a lot of other stuff
for the kitchen including juice, cheese and tea, all of them
of course made with apples.QA-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370)
620 653 33. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 -
24:00. Closed Sun. PJAW
SKYBAR
Churning out scores of excellent cocktails and still providing
not one but two extraordinary views from the 22nd floor,
a trip to Vilnius without a trip to SkyBar isn’t really a trip at
all. Rewarding at any time of the evening, the best times to
drop by are as the sun is setting or late at the weekend when
the place takes on a distinctively clubby feel. The aforemen-
tioned views, which get snapped up quickly by visitors who
head to the tables by the windows immediately on entering,
include not only the best panorama of Old Town there is
but, less popular but an extraordinary contrast all the same,
a view to the vast concrete sleeping districts that house the
majority of the city’s residents. Highly recommended.QA-
00, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, 22nd
foor), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 23. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 02:30. PAULXW
ŠPUNKA
Why aren’t there more bars like this in Vilnius? Small,
scruffy, friendly, affordable and packed with a stunning
selection of outstanding local and foreign beer on tap and
in bottles, there should be a Špunka on every street. Get
absolutely sloshed, meet some eccentric locals and ask for
one of their wooden boards of meat and cheese when you
get peckish. Well worth a visit.QD-3, Užupio 9, tel. (+370)
652 323 61, www.spunka.lt. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Mon
17:00 - 22:00. JAW
SWEET&SOUR
Oh yes, we liked this place from the moment we walked
in. It has a proper bar with proper bar stools for a start (al-
ways a winner in our book) and boasts a couple of most
skilled cocktail wizards in the city. The Old Fashioned they
serve here is perhaps the best in Vilnius, and it’s made all
the better by being able to drink it while sitting in one of
the sumptuous leather armchairs. There is a menu of fine
single malts too, and loads of appetizers to nibble on. Very
nice indeed.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 19, tel. (+370) 682 277
74. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 -
03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA
THE GLOBE
An unexpected gem hidden away upstairs to the left past
reception, The Globe has been providing good alcohol
and the chance of something decent to eat courtesy of
friendly staff for years. Somewhat resembling a slightly
stuffy gentlemen’s club, the complete absence of excite-
ment here makes it the ideal spot for a relaxed business
drink or any other kind of discreet encounter for that mat-
ter.QD-2, Bernardinų 8/8 (Shakespeare Boutique Ho-
tel), tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. Open
06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 24:00. PTJASW
UNIVERSITETO PUB
One of those places which more deserves its Vilnius Leg-
end status, old Lithuanian hands may not immediately
recognise the old Universiteto from days gone by, but
rest-assured it’s still the good time central venue it always
was. The crowd these days is younger and a bit more lo-
cal than the one which made this an expat hangout for a
good many years but with good bar food, plenty of theme
nights and parties you are almost always guaranteed a
decent night out here.QB/C-3, Dominikonų 9, tel. (+370)
678 833 63. Open 22:00 - 03:00, Tue 22:00 - 04:00, Wed
22:00 - 05:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Entrance free.
PJAW
V 4 VILNIUS
Modern industrial minimalist chic in the heart of the city.
With plenty of different seating areas (some on sofas,
some on bar stools, some at more conventional tables)
there is a something for everyone. The food is good, and
while the lunch menu is a bit dearer than other places
nearby it’s still reasonable and worth every extra penny.
Great service from a bunch of happy young waitresses all
dressed smartly in black. Add in lounge-style music and
you have a winner. QA-2, Vilniaus 16, tel. (+370) 652 156
16. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
04:00. PJAW
CLUBS
Due to the universal law stating that it’s impossible to be in
all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are writ-
ten to provide a general overview of what’s to be expected if
you visit them. As any serious clubber already knows, nights
change with alarming regularity, good promoters come and
go and expected crowds fail to turn up. The pitifully few brave
clubs in Vilnius who dare to break away from the mainstream
all have at least a well-maintained website if not a Facebook
page or two to compliment, of which Vilnius In Your Pocket
at least always provides the former to help give readers even
more information. Finally, the good news about clubbing in
Vilnius is that entrance prices are relatively low and the city
is remarkably small. If you do happen to stumble on a non-
event, relocating to another club is both quick and affordable.
BRODVĖJUS
Still, after we-know-not-how-many-years the default
‘where shall we go now’ option for many, Brodvėjus boasts
two levels of mayhem and fun. In general terms, down-
stairs is for dancing while upstairs is for drinking (especially
if you want to sit down). The music remains much as it has
for over a decade: a mix of just about everything. There are
live bands some evenings too. Leave your pretensions at
the door and you will love it.QB-4, Mėsinių 4, tel. (+370)
652 577 90, www.brodvejus.lt. Open 20:00 - 05:00, Tue
20:00 - 03:00, Wed 18:00 - 03:00, Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Sun
21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free on weekdays.
On weekends from €2 - 8. PJAEW
EXIT VILNIUS
Remember when the best club in the country (indeed, one
of the best in Europe in our book) was in Kaunas? That was
Exit. This is a welcome return for Lithuania’s top nightspot,
now in the capital and once again attracting a beautiful
crowd of serious party people looking for a seriously good
time. Expect top DJs from all over the world to be spinning
the tunes behind the decks, amazing lights and special ef-
fects, gorgeous dancers and just about the most hedonistic
time you can have in this city. Bring it on!QG-4, J. Jasinskio
16a, tel. (+370) 698 591 16. Open 23:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free or €9. PJA
MENŲ FABRIKAS LOFTAS
An independent, non-profit cultural centre based inside
a fabulous old factory providing creative opportunities,
outlets and events for the community including parties,
fashion shows, educational seminars, film screenings and
much more. Also known as Loftas (The Loft), for more de-
tails about all their events - including those held on their
new summer terrace, LRT OPUS, see their homepage
(menufabrikas.lt - available in English).QG-5, Švitrigailos
29, www.menufabrikas.lt. Working hours depend on
repertoire. Entrance (Loftas) free - €56. JW
MOJO LOUNGE VILNIUS
The opening night at this place was one of the best parties
Vilnius has seen for many a year, and by the looks of things
the standard has remained high in the weeks which have
passed. A gorgeous place - decked out in style without
ever going over-the-top - it hosts loads of regular parties,
live events and attracts a varied, affluent crowd: it’s the kind
of place where you do not have to worry about feeling too
old or too young. Top music, and the service is good too
(it doesn’t take all night to get a drink). A winner.QC-4,
Vokiečių 2, tel. (+370) 657 665 00, www.mojolounge.lt.
Open 23:00 - 05:00, Thu 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. Entrance free or €3 - 6. PJAEX
NERINGA CAFÉ-BAR
A peculiar, retro-style cellar club functioning as a nice
place for food during the day and something altogether
different during the weekend. Thursday nights are cur-
rently celebrated with live jazz, whilst Friday and Saturday
evenings attract a crowd of mostly middle-aged, manbag-
wielding gentlemen and their peroxide-bleached wives
splashing out on pickled herring and cheap champagne
and reliving their youth on the little dance floor to the fab-
ulous hits of yesteryear. Priceless.QA-1, Gedimino 23, tel.
(+370) 5 231 39 79, www.cafe-bar.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Entrance
(Fri, Sat from 22:00) €3. JAW
50 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 51 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
PABO LATINO
Featuring three halls and two bars of sheer class, Pabo La-
tino is an oasis of Latin culture in a country where human
warmth is far from overwhelming. A tough but fair door
policy keeps the low life out, meaning what you get inside
is a well behaved bunch of good-looking people out for
a fun evening in pleasant albeit sometimes frenetic sur-
roundings. The music is both live and courtesy of DJs, the
cocktail menu is massive and if you don’t know how to
dance Latin style, they even organise lessons for anyone
willing to give it a go.QA-4, Trakų 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10
45, www.pabolatino.lt. Open Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free
or €4.5 - 9. PJAEX
SALENTO DISCOPUB
Nights of foam in which the ladies get all wet and lath-
ery, cheap offers on cocktails, deckchairs, large television
screens and a predominantly young crowd are the things
to expect inside this heaving Old Town favourite. The
brainchild of Italian Piero, the idea is to bring an Italian
and Spanish pub-disco feel to the Lithuanian capital. Each
night promises a different theme, with music focusing
on pop and old favourites. Magic.QC-4, Didžioji 28, tel.
(+370) 676 820 15, www.salentodiscopub.com. Open
22:00 - 06:00. Entrance free - €5. PJAEW
a corridor. Pass the bouncer at the door, leave your coats
with the leggy blonde by the wardrobe and enter a tight,
squeaky clean interior adorned with expensive vases and
framed snaps of movie stars. Come early if you want one
of the sofas, which back onto the glittering Stikliai Restau-
rant, separated by windowed partitions. Sip a Hennessey
Miami, nibble breadsticks wrapped with Parma ham and
partake of foie gras or scallops with black truffles.QC-3,
Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 615 223 17. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJAEW
MOJITO NIGHTS
Mojito Nights is the cocktail bar formerly known as Mojito
Naktys. The new menu is better than ever, and the place
looks great: a saucy cocoon of vaulted cellar rooms often
filled to bursting with a cocktail-fuelled young and rather
cool crowd attracted not just by the drinks but also by the
regular line up of good DJs who make sure the sounds are as
up-to-the-minute as possible. Prices good for the location.
QC-4, Didžioji 33/2, tel. (+370) 687 700 77. Open 23:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. JAXW
NEW
ONE TWO
What sets this lively nightspot apart are the prizewinning
bartenders who use the priciest ingredients in their clas-
sic cocktails. Get your G&T made with exclusive Tanqueray
Rangpur gin and Fentimans tonic, for example, and slouch
in the spacious lounge while the DJ spins tunes with his
back to a library of books. Understandably, it’s moneyed
COCKTAILS
ALCHEMIKAS
It’s about time a cocktail bar came along that was more
about the art of cocktails than the pretence of the cocktail
bar sensation. Specialising in both classic and modern mixed
drinks, it’s worth paying them a visit just to have a peep at the
extraordinary interior, and if you do choose to stick around,
expect to be bankrupt by the end of the evening thanks to
the addictive allure of their magnificent mixology. Note that
this is one of the smallest bars in Vilnius, so serious cocktail
lovers should come on Wednesday or Thursday, as Friday can
be very full. Recommended.QA-2, Islandijos 1, tel. (+370)
612 998 00. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA
COCKTAIL’INĖ
Seriously creative cocktails based on a number of themes,
from highly experimental molecular cocktails to coffee and
more traditional drinks - all mixed with precision. To get the
best out of this place perhaps try one of the tastings, with
each tasting allowing you to sample a number of cocktails for
the one price.QB-0, A. Juozapavičiaus 4, tel. (+370) 615 242
58, www.kokteiline.eu. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 -
24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PJAW
NEW
DREAM BAR
Imaginative minds at the elegant Stikliai Hotel have cre-
ated a money-spinning nightspot out of little more than
www.inyourpocket.com
52 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 53 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
LIVE EVENTS
TAMSTA
A brave attempt by the people who run the excel-
lent music shop downstairs to bring live bands of
many persuasions to a half-starved audience. Mu-
sic ranges from jazz to art-rock to old fashioned
rock and roll, there’s a long bar to keep everyone
fed and watered, plus once a month they organ-
ise a so-called Open Mic Day where outsiders can
come and improvise along with other like-minded
musicians.QD-5, A. Strazdelio 1, tel. (+370) 5 212
44 98, www.tamstaclub.lt. Open 19:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. En-
trance free or €2 - 12. JAEW
professionals who populate this club rather than stu-
dents. Late evenings exude a mysterious and sexy so-
phistication as parties spill into a neighbouring room
with a giant white rabbit.QA-1, Stulginskio 2, tel.
(+370) 695 168 05. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PJAEW
PANTERA
Cocktails and more at a top venue brought to you by
the same people as uber-club Exit. The crowd which
makes it in is young, trendy and rather attractive, while
the place itself is much the same: it looks fabulous, and
is packed with comfy black leather sofas ripe for chill-
ing on with your expertly made drink. Watching some
of the bar staff in action is a night out itself, while the
waitresses are rather fetching in their pretty black
dresses. You will like it the moment you walk in.QA-2,
A. Smetonos 5, tel. (+370) 657 614 45. Open 23:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free.
PJA
PAPARAZZI
Still going strong after all these years, Paparazzi has
made a few minor changes since it first opened its doors
such as moving a few metres to the right and introduc-
ing an extremely popular weekly pub quiz, but the place
more or less remains the same as it ever was. Frequented
by a mostly young, 20-something crowd out for a good
time in a friendly environment, the cocktails remain the
reason why so many still visit although there’s plenty of
other good things behind the bar to keep everybody
happy. If you’re thinking of dropping by late at night
after too many drinks somewhere else, or if you didn’t
bother to get changed after hiking in the countryside
all day, don’t be surprised to be turned away. The door
policy may be tough but it does ensure a good night out
for all who make it in.QB-2, Totorių 1/10, tel. (+370) 5
212 01 35, www.paparazzi.lt. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJAW
SALIONAS
For a subdued, downbeat, alternative version of your
mainstream big-budget cocktail bars, look no further
than Salionas. Breathing life back into the elaborate
Writers Union, once infamous for its crazy insatiable
scribes, it’s now far less intense. Leather furniture adds
a touch of sophistication, while the atmospherically
lit courtyard is relaxing in warmer weather.QB-1/2, K.
Sirvydo 6, tel. (+370) 655 557 06. Open 19:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAW
WINE
IN VINO
Catching on to the current craze for wine bars in the city
early on, they’ve obviously got a real appreciation for
wine of which they stock a fair amount. Perhaps best
enjoyed on a Friday or Saturday night, this is one of the
best places in town to mingle with the cream of the
city’s C-list celebrities.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel. (+370)
5 212 12 10, www.invino.lt. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 04:00. PJASW
LA BOHÈME
Good for either food or drink, the grandiose medieval
interior is perfect for group celebrations and the wine
list is both thoughtful and extensive. All in all a most
suitable venue for everyone, from passing lads on the
pull to a coach-load of grandmothers.QB-3, Šv. Ignoto
4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 87. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. JASW
MIMOZA/VINCHENSO
A little bit of everything here inside one of the latest
sensations to appear on the scene. Crowded much of
the time, it’s both a classy wine bar complete with shop
as well as an Asian restaurant serving the usual collec-
tion of dishes including butterfish sashimi, tofu soup, a
range of tasting dishes and a couple of vegetarian op-
tions. Get here early if you want a seat and rub shoulders
with some of the capital’s prettier specimens. On top of
everything else, they’re attempting to woo even more
customers by booking some decent DJs.QA-2, Islandi-
jos 1/33, tel. (+370) 652 935 87. Open 15:00 - 01:00, Thu
15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. PJASW
NOTRE VIE
Yet another wine bar, this one is small and intimate
with friendly staff and a good selection of booze and
snacks. Although nothing to get too excited about, it is
at least the real thing unlike so many of the others in
Vilnius.QB/C-3, Stiklių 10, tel. (+370) 614 245 21. Open
13:00 - 24:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.
PJASW
TAPPO D’ORO
We immediately took a liking to this highly unpreten-
tious bar on one of the Old Town’s main streets. There’s
no obvious signage, just messy stickers on the windows.
Inside you’re greeted by a framed b/w photo of Thom
Yorke, posters taped on walls and a jumble of rickety fur-
niture. Ukrainian and Lithuanian flags stand on one side.
Drinks include Newcastle Brown, Amstel, Murphy’s and
informal cocktails like “white Italian” (Sambuca, white
wine, other ingredients). Not much to eat besides pork
rinds.QB-4, Vokiečių 8, tel. (+370) 616 747 54. Open
17:00 - 04:00. JAW
WINE&FIRE
If we tell you that this is the latest venture from the peo-
ple behind La Provence and Marché de Provence - both
dining legends in Vilnius - then you will already have
enough reason to come and give this place a try. It’s a
classy wine bar - also serving upmarket nibbles - where
you can sit yourself at one of the sturdy workbench-
style tables and sip one of more than 400 excellent
wines.QC-3, Pilies 25a, tel. (+370) 615 999 09. Open
11:00 - 02:00, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. PJAESW
CABARET
NEW YORK
Opened in 2004 in the style of an old-fashioned musical
theatre, New York’s finally found its feet as more of a live
music club than anything else. Set among authentic theat-
rical décor, evenings here include everything from the oc-
casional cabaret act to all sorts of music shows to the the-
atre’s long-running play, Urvinis Žmogus (Defending the
Caveman). See their website for more information.QH-2,
Kalvarijų 85, tel. (+370) 610 107 62, www.newyorkclub.
lt. Opening hours depend on repertoire. Entrance €6 -
20. PAE
LGBT
Attitudes towards minority groups in Lithuania are
slowly changing for the better, with a handful of brave
individuals spearheading campaigns for equal rights
armed with both courage and a firm understanding of
Lithuanian law. One such person is the gay young Lith-
uanian film director Romas Zabarauskas, who in 2012
along with a number of local LGBT activists launched a
campaign encouraging restaurants and bars in Vilnius
to display an LGBT Friendly sticker (pictured) on their
doors. An overwhelming success, this summer the pro-
ject intensified with the publication of a map of Vilnius
marked with the venues that have so far signed up to
the sticker campaign. Available for free at an increasing
number of places around town including restaurants,
bars, hotels and tourist information centres, the previ-
ously unthinkable maps offer visitors to the city, regard-
less of their sexual orientation, a simple way of know-
ing where Vilnius’ liberal-minded residents choose to
go out and enjoy themselves. Published in July, the first
map was given away in a symbolic gesture of solidar-
ity to Stuart Milk, the nephew of the iconic gay rights
activist and politician Harvey Milk (1930-1978), who
in a rather neat closing of the circle was of Lithuanian
origin.
54 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 55 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
www.inyourpocket.com
SOHO
One main space for drinking and chatting and another for
dance-orientated activities both sub-divided even further
and decorated in a somewhat eclectic yet rather fetching
style. If you want to grab someone’s attention punters
here can send SMS messages to be displayed on a large
screen.QG-4, Švitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395 67,
www.sohoclub.lt. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free - €6. PAW
DOLLS
Dollicious! This is an absolutely fantastic place to indulge in
the truly titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best
in town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their scantily clad
flesh before you, above you and possibly even beneath
you for a price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from
Old Town to visit the Barbie of your dreams.QA-00, Kon-
stitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82, www.oldtown.lt.
Open 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Entrance €20. PA
OLD TOWN STRIP CLUB
Expect a thumping, throbbing, erotically charged es-
capade. These ladies don’t mess around when it’s show
time. Well actually they mess around with a lot of toys. The
hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in this city,
but the very best part might just be the deliciously inno-
cent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their
clothes on.QC-4, Rūdninkų 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 13 49,
www.oldtown.lt. Open 20 :00 – 06 :00. Closed Sun. En-
trance €20. PJA
PARADISE
This perfect combination of gentlemen’s leisure and en-
tertainment provides a range of services and facilities
from saucy dancing to whirlpools. What more could a
man with a credit card need? They don’t call it Paradise for
nothing.QA-2, Vilniaus 29, tel. (+370) 630 111 12, www.
paradiseclub.lt. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Entrance €29.
PJAW
CASINOS
According to Lithuanian law, all visitors to casinos need to take
an internationally recognised form of picture ID (preferably a
passport) with them and register before being allowed inside.
NESĖ CASINO QA-2, Pamėnkalnio 7/8 (Pramogų
Bankas), tel. (+370) 700 555 55, www.nese.lt. Open
24hrs. PJW
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Vilnius In Your Pocket doesn’t mention what one’s expected
to pay for alcohol and ‘other services’ in the places listed in
the Adult entertainment section of this guide. Although by
no means expensive relatively speaking, strip clubs here
aren’t exactly cheap. The memorable story of a visiting busi-
nessman from a country that shall remain nameless suffer-
ing an attack of serial private dancing and then not being
able to pay his bill is one of many similar tales, and is worth
remembering, especially if, as in the case of this gentleman,
it’s someone from your embassy that has to get up in the
middle of the night and sort it out. So, please, before you
indulge too much, make sure you know exactly what you’re
getting yourselves into.
Šv. Kazimiero gatvė
56 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 57 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
What to see What to see
The Lithuanian capital’s frst period of growth took place
immediately south of today’s Cathedral Square, eventu-
ally becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque, Gothic,
Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now known as
Old Town. Although most people fock to the city to visit
this undeniable gem, there are plenty of other things to
see when in town, from the very Lithuanian eccentricities
encountered over the imaginary border in the self-styled
Republic of Užupis to the few remaining relics of a once
thriving Jewish community to the occasional Soviet-era
masterpiece. Fill the buildings with a reasonably interest-
ing collection of museums and galleries, put some decent
parks in the spaces in-between and you’ll fnd it hard to
not fnd a reason to visit.
ESSENTIAL VILNIUS
DAWN GATE (AUŠROS VARTAI)
Completed in 1522, the Dawn Gate (or Sharp Gate (Ostra
Brama) as it’s known to the Poles) is the only remaining
gate from the city’s original defensive walls. As was com-
mon at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed
above all gates to protect the city, and the story of the
Dawn Gate starts from this simple historic fact. The current
image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy,
was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630 by an
unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver about
40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-built cha-
pel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic
healing powers. Interestingly, the Dawn Gate is revered by
both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an im-
portant part of the city’s cultural heritage that it remained
open throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closely as
people walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel
is open to the public and is accessed via a small door on the
left as you’re walking up the hill.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 12, tel.
(+370) 5 212 35 13. Open 06:00 - 19:00. Mass 07:30 (Latin),
09:00, 10:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun 09:00 (Pol-
ish), 09:30, 11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30. J
GEDIMINAS CASTLE & MUSEUM (GEDIMINO
PILIS IR MUZIEJUS) Dating from the 13th century the
castle was rebuilt in 1419 by Grand Duke Vytautas following
the great fire of Vilnius. In 1610 it was used as a prison for the
ruling classes, and during the 1655-1661 Russian occupation
the towers and defensive walls were almost completely
destroyed, with serious albeit only partial restoration work
beginning (presumably by the Poles) as late as 1930. Inside
the tower itself find models of the castle as it was in the
14th and 18th centuries plus other miscellaneous bits and
pieces concerned with the building’s history and knights in
dented armour. The view on a good day is recommended.
The walk to the top is a bit of a struggle for many, although
there are benches thoughtfully provided along the way. Al-
ternatively, use the funicular-type train (tickets €1.5/1) which
runs up and down the hill’s northern slope. Find it hidden in
a courtyard immediately west of the Applied Art Museum
on Arsenalo.QC-1, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Admission €2.03/1.01. J
CATHEDRAL
C AT HE DR AL-
BASILICA OF ST.
STANISLAUS &
ST. LADISLAUS
(VILNIAUS ŠV.
S TANI S L OVO
IR ŠV. VLADIS-
LOVO ARKI-
KATEDRA BA-
ZILIKA) The most
important Catholic
building in Lithu-
ania, Vilnius Cathe-
dral as it’s more
usually known was
first built in 1251
by a newly con-
verted Grand Duke
Mindaugas on the site of a supposed pagan temple.
Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas’ death in 1263,
the church was given back to the Catholic Church on
the country’s official conversion to Christianity in 1387,
although the building that now stands in its place
has little to do with the original structure. The current
building dates to around 1419, with countless modifi-
cations and additions made after that. Its present Neo-
Classical form is largely down to the work of the Lithu-
ania’s first true architect, Laurynas Stuoka Gucevičius
(Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz, 1753-1798), who was also
responsible for a number of other notable buildings in
the city including the Town Hall. The rather plain nave
betrays eleven chapels, among them the must-see
High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-1484), Lithu-
ania’s patron saint. Built in 1636 to house his remains,
the chapel is one of the country’s national treasures.
The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena and Casimir
on the roof, supposedly representing Poland, Russia
and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century
originals which were taken down and lost by the So-
viets in 1950, the year the building was confiscated
from the Catholics. Spending several years as an art
gallery and even mooted as a car repair workshop at
one time, the Cathedral was returned to the Catho-
lic Church on October 22, 1988 during the eventful
Sąjūdis Congress and was re-consecrated on February
5, 1989. The 57-metre free-standing bell tower, a pop-
ular contemporary meeting place, was originally part
of one of the gates in the city’s defensive wall and has
been added to several times over the centuries which
gives it its peculiar shape. It received six new bells in
2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bačkis in a special
ceremony.QC-2, Katedros 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 27,
www.katedra.lt. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Mass 08:00,
17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30,
17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J
GENOCIDE VICTIMS’ MUSEUM (GENOCIDO AUKŲ
MUZIEJUS) The sign outside reads that between 1940 and
1991 this building housed the representative institutions of
the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate
almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-
called genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist
regime. Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius
for people wishing to understand this often bleak and violent
period in the country’s history, what the sign fails to point out
is that between 1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by
the Gestapo, whose role in the systematic murder of the vast
majority of the city’s Jewish population with the willing par-
ticipation of many ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely,
almost completely overlooked, although the recent addition
of a room dedicated to just this issue is a welcome addition.
Controversy aside, as a testament to the suffering endured by
the ethnic Lithuanians, especially under the lunacy of Stalin,
the place is a must-see for any visitor to Vilnius.QG-4, Aukų
2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64, www.genocid.lt/muziejus. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admis-
sion €1.74/0.87. J
ST. ANNE’S CHURCH (ŠV. ONOS BAŽNYČIA) Un-
questionably one of the city’s most famous landmarks and
quite rightly so, the history of St. Anne’s starts with the al-
leged construction in the 14th century of a wooden house
of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the wife of Vy-
tautas the Great. The first historical records of a church here
date from 1394, although the current Gothic masterpiece is
believed to have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a
design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534),
most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike
other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Anne’s has managed
to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is argu-
ably the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different
styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole,
the effect is simply quite stunning. It’s been said the façade
incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the country’s
earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking
at it. The interior is surprisingly free of ostentation, although
this is hardly needed due to the spectacular design of the
structure. The free-standing bell tower has nothing to do
with the original design, being built only in 1873. A visiting
Emperor Napoleon in 1812 famously if somewhat apocry-
phally noted he’d like to take the building back to Paris in the
palm of his hand.QD-3, Maironio 8, www.onosbaznycia.
lt. Open 17:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon (October 1 - April 30).
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon (May 1 - September 30).
Mass 18:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM (TAIKOMOSIOS DAILĖS
MUZIEJUS) Housed inside what was the far northeast
corner of the city’s original defensive walls, of which some
including an original gate can still be seen inside, this worthy
inclusion into the city’s national treasures is stuffed full of good
things to see, among them little models of how the city once
looked, furniture, paintings and much more besides. Among
VILNIUS CATHEDRAL BELFRY
Closed for more than a de-
cade, the Belfry of Vilnius
Cathedral finally reopened
to visitors earlier this sum-
mer. One of the city’s defin-
ing monuments, the tower,
which originally formed part
of the city’s 13th century
defensive wall, became a
belfry in the 16th century. 57
metres tall it was remodelled
and given its current look in the 19th century. Besides
offering views from the top, the tower also hosts an
exhibition of bells and documents the building’s re-
construction.QC-2, Katedros 2, tel. (+370) 600 120 80,
www.bpmuziejus. lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Admission €4.34/2.32. J
the permanent exhibits find three unmissable collections
of sacred Lithuanian art including examples from both the
Catholic and Orthodox Churches dating back as far as the 15th
century. Temporary exhibitions also take place throughout the
year.QD-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 5 262 80 80, www.ldm.lt.
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion €1.74/0.87. J
LITHUANIAN RADIO & TELEVISION MUSEUM
(LIETUVOS RADIJO IR TELEVIZIJOS MUZIEJUS) A
little gem of a corridor lined with several large, glass-front-
ed displays showcasing the history of radio and television
in Lithuania from its inception through to the modern day.
Among the old radio sets, costumes and photographs of
stars you won’t recognise is a fabulous selection of things
dedicated to the tragic events of January 13, 1991, includ-
ing the telephone used by Lithuanian television bosses to
communicate with the KGB and a video camera complete
with a smashed lens, courtesy of an unknown Russian sol-
dier who shot it with his rifle.QF-5, Konarskio 49 (inside
the LRT building), tel. (+370) 5 236 32 14, www.lrtc.lt.
Open by appointment only. Admission free.
LITHUANIAN RAILWAY MUSEUM (LIETUVOS
GELEŽINKELIŲ MUZIEJUS) Recently moving to
much larger premises inside the train station itself, the
Lithuanian Railway Museum may not be to everybody’s
taste, but is still worth a visit if you’re in the area, or for that
matter if you’ve got a while to wait for your train. Made
up of three main exhibition halls the museum charts the
history of the railways in Lithuania, looks at some of the
technical aspects of trains and the tracks they run on, is
bursting with old railway-related paraphernalia and also
has a couple of models that children can play with. Find
it to the right of the main entrance to the station.QB-6,
Geležinkelio 16 (Train Station), tel. (+370) 5 269 37 41,
www.litrail.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission €1.16/0.58. J
58 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 59 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
What to see What to see
LITHUANIAN THEATRE, MUSIC & CINEMA MU-
SEUM (LIETUVOS TEATRO, MUZIKOS IR KINO
MUZIEJUS) Originating in 1926 as a theatre museum
and slowly collecting departments and exhibits over
the decades until it became what it is today, this mildly
interesting cultural diversion inside a glorious 18th-
century former palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian
history of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated
rooms full of harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters
and recordings of famous Lithuanian opera singers are
one or two gems including several displays given over
to the life of the actress Unė Babickaitė (aka. Une Baye or
Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum of cinematic
success in the United States in the 1920s. The museum
also features several temporary exhibitions of painting
and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who
guard the place from pestering you every couple of min-
utes you might just find you enjoy this place. Entrance
is around the back of the building.QB-3, Vilniaus 41,
tel. (+370) 5 262 24 06, www.ltmkm.lt. Open 11:00
- 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission €2.03/1.45. J
MONEY MUSEUM (PINIGŲ MUZIEJUS) Featuring
five small rooms on two floors celebrating the history of
world and Lithuanian money, despite the inclusion of lots
of fancy interactive bits and bobs and plenty of informa-
tion in English, this relatively new museum’s best attribute
is the fact that it’s free to enter. If money’s your hobby
then there’s no doubt it’s worth a visit. If it isn’t, then it
probably isn’t.QB-2, Totorių 2/8, tel. (+370) 5 268 03 34.
Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission free. J
NATIONAL ART GALLERY (NACIONALINĖ DAI-
LĖS GALERIJA) Found inside a renovated and en-
larged building that once housed the Museum of the
Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic,
this bold endeavour showcases the work of a multi-
tude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and
21st century.The museum is organised to highlight
particular styles, eras and political attitudes to art in
Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past
century and also stages temporary exhibitions that are
well worth visiting.QG-3, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370)
5 219 59 60, www.ndg.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu
12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion €1.74/0.87. JAW
NATIONAL MUSEUM (LIETUVOS NACIONALINIS
MUZIEJUS) Lithuania’s oldest museum, parts of the col-
lection inside this intriguing history lesson date back to
the 13th century. On permanent display are religious and
secular items highlighting the cultural and ethnographic
life of the nation, including recreations of traditional
homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more. Also to
be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass
grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum
also puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly
outstanding. A vital key for unlocking the secrets of the
Lithuanian people.QC-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94
26, www.lnm.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission €2/1. J
TOY MUSEUM (ŽAISLŲ MUZIEJUS) Inspired by
similar initiatives in Europe and around the world, this
recently opened interactive museum is a private venture
aimed at children of all ages from four to 90. Tracing the
history of toys and games from around the 12th century
onwards, the museum features exhibits including a whirli-
gig dating from the 14th century that was found during
excavation work nearby, teddy bears galore and some
simple wooden vehicles made in Lithuania during the So-
viet period. Indeed, most of the original items on display
date from the Soviet period and as such offer a fascinating
insight into the former everyday lives of children behind
the Iron Curtain. Many of the things on display are there
to be touched, played with and generally mauled, mak-
ing the place a really recommended place for visitors to
the city with children in tow who are already fed up with
churches and the like. Not the easiest place to find in the
world, keep an eye out for the sign on the wall along with
a lot of other signs. Entrance is through the door just to
the right.QD-2, Šiltadaržio 2/7, tel. (+370) 604 004 49,
info@zaislumuziejus.lt, www.zaislumuziejus.lt. Open
15:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission €3.50 /2.90 /2.40. J
VILNIUS PICTURE GALLERY (VILNIAUS PAVEIK-
SLŲ GALERIJA) Housed inside the charming 17th-
century Chodkevičiai (Chodkiewicz) family palace, this
splendid little museum is of the type in which a menag-
erie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around from room
to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and enjoy a
great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture
plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of exemplary furni-
ture, all of it representing the last several hundred years
of achievement. They also put on temporary exhibitions
here, of which some are well worth checking out.QC-3,
Didžioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.lt. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission
€1.73/0.86. J
VYTAUTAS KASIULIS ART MUSEUM (VYTAUTO
KASIULIO DAILĖS MUZIEJUS) Opened to coincide
with Lithuania’s 2013 Presidency of the Council of the Eu-
ropean Union and housed inside a fine Neoclassical build-
ing dating from the first decade of the 20th century, this
combined museum and art gallery contains a permanent
collection of work by the Lithuanian-born artist Vytau-
tas Kasiulis (1918-1995) who escaped Lithuania in 1944
for Austria and then Germany and who from 1948 until
his death spent the rest of his life living and working in
Paris. The museum also has space for temporary exhibi-
tions and plays host to a range of music concerts.QA-0, A.
Goštauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 67 64, kasiuliomuziejus@
ldm.lt, www.ldm.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €1.74/0.87. J
CHURCHES
BERNARDINE CHURCH & MONASTERY (BERNAR-
DINŲ BAŽNYČIA IR VIENUOLYNAS) Once forming
part of the city’s original defensive walls and constructed
on the site of an earlier wooden church dating from the
middle of the 15th century at the behest of an order of
Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church with
Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the
early part of the 16th century onwards. As the old pho-
tographs on display show, the church interior was truly
breathtaking before the Soviet authorities took control
of the building, handing it over to the Vilnius Art Institute
who among other things allegedly incorporated parts
of the interior into the works of art the academy was
producing. Returned to the monks soon after indepen-
dence, a mammoth restoration project continues to this
day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo
altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dat-
ing from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery
is the oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its
extensive library and independent-minded monks, the
monastery was closed soon after the failed Uprising of
1863 and turned into a barracks for tsarist troops before
falling into the hands of the city’s Art Academy at the
end of WWI. The building now houses the Vilnius Art
Academy.QD-3, Maironio 10, tel. (+370) 616 011 59,
www.parapija.bernardinai.lt. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Mass Mon, Tue 07:30, Wed, Thu,
Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00 (English),
10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J
CHURCH OF STS. MICHAEL & CONSTANTINE
(ŠV. KONSTANTINO IR MICHAILO CERKVĖ) Built
in 1913 at the very end of tsarist rule within the city as
part of the 300th anniversary celebrations of the Ro-
manov Dynasty, this rather absurd-looking Russian Or-
thodox church is famed hereabouts for its garish green
domes. On closer inspection, the church, which sup-
posedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and
Suzdal styles, is a beautiful design, as early postcards
showing the original dome designs attest. The interior
is relatively plain, and only really recommended for seri-
ous enthusiasts.QG-4, J. Basanavičiaus 27, tel. (+370) 5
212 17 90. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00. J
CHURCH OF THE APPARITION OF THE HOLY
MOTHER OF GOD (ZNAMENSKAYA) Built in 1903
and topped with several beautiful Neo-Byzantine cu-
polas, this is one of the best loved Russian Orthodox
churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons hanging
inside are potted plants that make the place feel really
alive. Next to the icons are special prayers for each saint,
but as everything in the church is written in Old Church
Slavonic you’ll need a translator to help work them out.
The church was fully restored inside and out in 2009QG-
3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370) 5 275 13 75. Open 09:00 -
16:30. Service Sat 10:00, 16:00, Sun 09:00.
CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS (ŠV. KRYŽIAUS
BAŽNYČIA) On the other side of the Presidential Palace
from the University, this charming little church’s history
dates back to 1543 and the building of a chapel on the site
to commemorate the martyrdom of a group of 14th-cen-
tury Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over the centuries,
including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the church is
now more or less late Baroque in appearance with a few
rococo flourishes, and is notable as being the only church
in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than
being purpose-built. The small interior is well worth hav-
ing a peep at if the main doors aren’t bolted as they usually
are, the most outstanding feature being the painting, Holy
Virgin Mother of Snow on the high altar, a copy of which
can be found on the fresco over the main entrance. The
small square in which the church is located also features
a stylised, Soviet-era bust of Laurynas Stuoka-Gucevičius
(1753-1798), Lithuania’s first serious architect who was
responsible for the contemporary look of the Cathedral-
Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus among other build-
ings in the city.QB-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93
47. Mass 17:15, Sun 09:30, 12:00. J
CHURCH OF THE HOLY MOTHER OF GOD
(SKAISČIAUSIOS DIEVO MOTINOS CERKVĖ)
Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th century,
this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions
as the city’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such
is often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vil-
60 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 61 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
What to see What to see
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
BALTIC TRAVEL SERVICE LUFTHANSA CITY
CENTER Guided tours around the city, region and
country. Must be booked in advance.QC-5, Subačiaus
2, tel. (+370) 655 258 55/1593, www.bts.lt. Open
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. JA
VILNIUS CITY TOUR
Tours of the historic centre in a number of languages.
Also audio guides available.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 7, tel.
(+370) 699 540 64, info@vilniuscitytour.com, www.
vilniuscitytour.com. Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. JA
nius owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to re-
construction work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after
the start of tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the
hands of Vilnius University who divided it into two floors,
constructing a library, classrooms and dissection rooms
for anatomy classes inside. In 1842 soldiers moved in as
the church acted as a barracks before it took on several
other uses before General Muravyov and his brother had
it restored to its current Georgian appearance and used as
a house of worship towards the end of the 1860s.QD-3,
Maironio 14, tel. (+370) 5 215 37 47. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
J
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT (ŠVENTOSIOS
DVASIOS BAŽNYČIA) Like many of the city’s churches,
the Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit was built on the
site of a former wooden house of worship that met a fi-
ery fate. The current building’s appearance started taking
shape towards the end of the 14th century. In 1501 it was
given to an order of Dominican monks who built a monas-
tery nearby. Its present Baroque appearance dates to the
mid-18th century when the church was rebuilt after seri-
ous fire damage. Inside is a wealth of Baroque and rococo
splendour, well worth further investigation. Interestingly,
the building, which functions as Vilnius’ Polish Catholic
community’s main church, remained opened throughout
the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access to the
church’s crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst
some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from
the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly
victims of the plague.QB-3, Dominikonų 8, tel. (+370) 5
262 95 95. Open 14:00 - 18:30. Mass only in Polish 15:00,
18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J
EVANGELICAL LUTHERAN CHURCH (EVAN-
GELIKŲ LIUTERONŲ BAŽNYČIA) Built in 1555, two
years after the first German-speaking Lutheran commu-
nity is said to have arrived in Vilnius, the crowning glory of
this small Gothic and Baroque church on the street named
after the city’s German community is the gorgeous rococo
altar, dating from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph
Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767), a
Lithuanian of German extraction and the city’s foremost
architect at the time. Serving as a workshop and basketball
court under the Communists, the building was returned
to its congregation in 1991 and has since become the
predominant house of worship for the capital’s multi-
denomination, English-speaking Christians. In addition
to the weekly English-language worship at 9:30 every
Sunday, there will be a Candlelit Carol Service at 16:00 on
Sunday 14th December, followed by refreshments, and
Christmas morning worship at 9:30 on Thursday 25th De-
cember.QB-4, Vokiečių 20, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 25, www.
vilniuschurch.org. Service Tue, Thu 08:00, Wed 18:00,
Fri 17:00, Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumenical Protestant),
11:00 (Lithuanian). J
FRANCISCAN CHURCH (PRANCIŠKONŲ BAŽNY-
ČIA) The Franciscan Church, or the Church of the Assump-
tion of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in
Vilnius to give it its full title, dates from the middle of the
14th century. Currently a beguiling building site of crum-
bling Gothic and Baroque magnificence, work continues
both inside and out to restore it to its original beauty.
Amidst the hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of
bricks on the sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is
slowly moving forwards. At the time of our last visit, the
Chapel of the Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the
lady reputed to have miracle-working powers, was near-
ing completion, giving some indication of how things will
eventually look.QB-4, Trakų 9-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 42.
Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00 (Lith-
uanian), 11:30 (Polish), 13:00 (Polish). J
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH & BASILIAN GATE (ŠV.
TREJYBĖS CERKVĖ IR BAZILIJONŲ VARTAI)
Consisting of a church, monastery, belfry and beauti-
ful rococo gate, with the exception of the latter much of
it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity Church
originally dates from 1514 and features elements of Gothic,
Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the be-
hest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich
Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogiškis, ca. 1460-1530), the
church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire
in the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates
or Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses to-
gether many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope
as God’s representative on Earth. The church is a complete
mess inside, almost completely empty with the exception
of some wonderful, barely visible frescos both inside and
out. There’s also a small chapel on the right as you enter.
Renovation work is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was
built in 1761 to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz
(Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767).QC-5, Aušros
Vartų 7b, tel. (+370) 5 212 25 78. Open 08:00 - 19:00.
Service only in Ukrainian 07:00, 09:00, 17:00 18:30, Sat
07:45, 09:00, Sun 10:00, 12:00, 17:30. J
ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST. PARASKEVA (PYAT-
NICKAYA) Dating back to the middle of the 14th century
and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a
former pagan place of worship, the charming albeit some-
what diminutive Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can
not only claim to have been the first church in Vilnius to
be made of stone but is also the alleged location of the
baptism in 1705 of none other than Hannibal, the African
prince and great grandfather of Alexander Pushkin who
was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the part
of Africa that’s now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the
Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on
several occasions due to fire, fell into disrepair around the
time of the Third Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for
seven decades before being almost completely rebuilt in
1864 only to suffer major fire damage during WWII. Recon-
structed in 1949, the building closed in 1961, opening a
year later as a museum of painting before being returned
to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991. Unusually for a
Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services are con-
ducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday.QC-3,
Didžioji 2. J
ORTHODOX CHURCH OF THE HOLY SPIRIT
(STAČIATIKIŲ ŠV. DVASIOS CERKVĖ) Dating origi-
nally from the mid-16th century but predominantly now
the combined work of the city’s most renowned and pro-
lific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas
Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years
on the rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later
19th-century Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire
ensemble is comprised of the church, a free-standing bell
tower, monastery and convent although it’s the church
interior that’s of most interest, being positively bursting
with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and rich blue and
green colours. A particular quirk of the church’s crypt saw
it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as the
final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints
Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose
remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in
black during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the
exception of June 26 when they’re put on display entirely
naked.QC/D-5, Aušros Vartų 10, tel. (+370) 5 212 77 65.
Open 07:00 - 19:00. Service 08:00, 17:00, Sun 07:00,
10:00, 17:00. J
REFORMED EVANGELICAL CHURCH (EVANGELIKŲ
REFORMATŲ BAŽNYČIA) The origin of the Protestant
Church in Lithuania, whose three traditional strongholds
still exist in Biržai, Kėdainiai and Vilnius, dates back to John
Calvin’s lifetime in 1557, although this particular church,
considered one of the finest examples of Neo-Classical
architecture in the country, was built considerably later
between 1830 and 1835. The work of one of the best local
Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podčašinskis (Pol.
Karol Podczaszyński, 1790-1860), the church was closed by
the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact
the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still
in use.QA-3, Pylimo 18, tel. (+370) 686 360 01, www.ref.
lt. Open by appointment only. Service in Lithuanian
Sun 11:00. J
ST. CASIMIR’S CHURCH (ŠV. KAZIMIERO BAŽ-
NYČIA) St. Casimir’s in many ways represents a micro-
cosm of Lithuania itself. Founded by the Jesuits and dedi-
cated to Lithuania’s patron saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon
(1458-1484), construction on the mighty building began
in 1604 and was completed in 1635. Burnt to the ground
just 20 years later when the Russians invaded in 1655,
conflagration visited twice again within the next century
in 1709 and 1749 before the architect, mathematician and
astronomer Tomas Žebrauskas (Pol. Thomas Zubrówka,
1714-1758) restored it to more or less the form it’s seen in
today. Over the centuries the church fell into the hands of
the Augustinians, Napoleon’s Grande Armée, the Russian
Orthodox Church (who significantly altered its appear-
ance), the Lutherans (who used it as the garrison church
for the occupying German Army during WWI) and others,
including the Soviets who turned the whole place into
a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic
Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and
has since undergone a massive renovation project, restor-
ing its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Re-
naissance touches. Of particular interest inside are three
late Baroque altars and a recently discovered 17th-century
crypt containing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous
religious motifs.QC-4, Didžioji 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 17
15. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00 (Russian),
10:30, 12:00. J



English language ecumenical worship
Sundays at 9.30 a.m.
All welcome!

Mid-week activities (from September):
• Mondays: Ladies Bible study
• Wednesdays: 6 p.m. Fellowship & Bible study

How to find us:
The church is located at
Vokiečių gatvė 20
(go through the archway
and iron gates: the church
entrance is on the left under
the bell tower)

How to contact us:
www.vilniuschurch.org
Pastor Jim Wagner: +370 (8) 636 35565
Email: internationalchurchofvilnius@gmail.com
The International
Church of Vilnius
www.inyourpocket.com
62 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 63 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
What to see What to see
EUROPOS PARKAS
EUROPOS PARKAS (OPEN AIR MUSEUM OF
THE CENTRE OF EUROPE) Founded in 1991 by
the Lithuanian sculptor Gintaras Karosas, this wildly
different and recommended countryside excursion
brings together a number of names in local and inter-
national sculpture including Karosas himself, the Pol-
ish artist Magdalena Abakanowicz as well as Dennis
Oppenheim and the late Sol Le-Witt from the United
States to create a vision that in the words of the park’s
founder ‘…give[s] an artistic significance to the geo-
graphic centre of the European continent…’. Featuring
close on 100 works by artists from countries as diverse
as Armenia, Japan and Venezuela, the park is spread
out over 55 hectares of rolling hills and woodland and
includes static and interactive art as well as the now
infamous Info Tree, Karosas’ crumbling shrine to propa-
ganda made up of some 3,000 televisions with a pros-
trate Lenin at its centre. With the addition of a restau-
rant and gift shop, the park offers a splendid few hours
away from the city for people of all ages. To get there
by car, take Kalvarijų north to the Santariškės round-
about, turn right towards the Green Lakes (Žalieji
Ežerai) and follow the signs. Buses leave from the
Žalgirio stop on Kalvarijų, including a minibus N°146
to Skirgiškės which goes all the way to the park itself.
Alternatively, bus N°36 goes part of the way there but
requires the last couple of kilometres to be made on
foot.QJoneikiškės, 10km north of Vilnius, tel. (+370)
5 237 70 77, www.europosparkas.lt. Open 10:00 -
two hours before sunset. Admission €7/3.
Artwork by Gintaras Karosas dedicated to Lithuanian poet Kris-
tijonas Donelaitis´ 300th birth anniversary
ST. NICHOLAS’ CHURCH (ŠV. MIKALOJAUS
BAŽNYČIA) Pre-dating the country’s conversion to
Christianity by some seven decades, Vilnius’ oldest sur-
viving church was built in 1320 by German merchant
immigrants. Mentioned for the first time in 1387, the im-
pressive, classic red brick Gothic exterior remains pretty
much as it looked the day it was finished with the interior
having received numerous changes and additions over
the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the Vil-
nius region during the two World Wars, this was the only
church in the city open to the city’s small Lithuanian-
speaking Catholic community.QB-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 4,
tel. (+370) 5 262 30 69. Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00,
Sun 08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J
ST. NICOLAS’ CHURCH (ŠV. NIKOLAJAUS
CERKVĖ) The forerunner to this church supposedly dates
back to the second decade of the 16th century, belonging
from 1609 until 1827 to the Uniate Church. At some time
during the 18th century the original church burnt down
and was replaced soon after in the Late Baroque style. At
the height of the tensions between the Russians and sev-
eral other ethnic communities in the city, the church was
confiscated on the orders of General Muravyov and con-
verted into a Russian Orthodox church with several Neo-
Byzantine additions made in 1865. With its predominantly
Catholic tower and typically Orthodox dome the church is
one of the most peculiar looking houses of worship in the
capital.QC-4, Didžioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 85 59. Services
Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J
STS. JOHNS’ CHURCH (ŠV. JONŲ BAŽNYČIA)
Built at the same time as Lithuania’s conversion to Chris-
tianity in 1387, albeit with numerous radical alterations
through the centuries, the vast and imposing Sts. Johns’
Church was given to the Jesuit Church in 1571 by Zyg-
munt II August (Žygimantas Augustas, 1520-1572). On
the dissolution of the Jesuit Order in 1773, the church
was handed over to the adjoining University. The pres-
ent building, which contains elements of all of the major
architectural styles associated with Old Town boasts an
extraordinary and predominantly Gothic interior whose
crowning glory is its organ of which parts date back to
an organ that came from the Belarusian city of Polotsk in
1831. The organ, the largest in country and that received
a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and 2000,
is used extensively in classical concerts the church is
now famous for. Note that the church is part of the Vil-
nius University complex and can’t be visited seperately:
you will need a ticket from the university itself.QC-3, Šv.
Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55, www.jonai.lt. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Mass Tue - Thu 18:00, Sun
11:00, 13:00. J
STS. PETER & PAULS’ CHURCH (ŠV. APAŠTALŲ
PETRO IR POVILO BAŽNYČIA) Believed to have
been built on the site of a site of worship to Milda, the
pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking Late Baroque
masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate victory over
the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac, the Grand
Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived to
see its completion. Financed by two of Pac’s cousins
and completed under several master craftsmen includ-
ing the Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani,
the rather plain façade betrays an interior by Giovanni
Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli that’s quite simply
out of this world. Containing over 2,000 astonishing
stucco mouldings representing miscellaneous religious
and mythological scenes, of equal magnificence are the
20th-century altar containing a wooden figure of Christ,
Antakalnio Jėzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which features real
human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the Latvian
chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating
from 1905.QJ-3, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5 234 02 29.
Open 09:00 - 16:30. Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish),
18:00, Sun 07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00
(Polish), 18:00.
ST. THERESA’S CHURCH (ŠV. TERESĖS BAŽ-
NYČIA) Probably Vilnius’ best surviving example of Early
Baroque religious architecture, work on the first incarnation
of St. Theresa’s was completed in around 1650. Built at the
behest and expense of the then Deputy Chancellor Stepo-
nas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac), the straightforward idea behind
its construction was to create the most beautiful church in
the city, a fact that can clearly be seen by its elaborate fa-
çade, predominantly the work of the Swiss-born Constantino
Tencalla (1610-1647) who also worked on St. George’s Chapel
inside the city’s Cathedral. The spectacular and predomi-
nantly rococo interior, much of it added in the middle of the
18th century, is a riot of golds and pinks.QC-5, Aušros Vartų
14, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Mass 07:30,
17:30, 18:30, Sun 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 17:30, 18:30. J
VILNIUS CATHEDRAL BELFRY
Closed for more than a decade, the Belfry of Vilnius Ca-
thedral finally reopened to visitors earlier this summer.
One of the city’s defining monuments, the tower, which
originally formed part of the city’s 13th century defensive
wall, became a belfry in the 16th century. 57 metres tall
it was remodelled and given its current look in the 19th
century. Besides offering views from the top, the tower
also hosts an exhibition of bells and documents the
building’s reconstruction.QC-2, Katedros 2, tel. (+370)
600 120 80, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. €4.34/2.32. JA
PLACES OF INTEREST
CENTRE OF EUROPE (EUROPOS CENTRAS)
Lithuania has the proud and noble distinction along with at
least six other places of being smack in the middle of Europe.
The Lithuanian claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George
Affholder of France’s Institut Géographique National who
announced that the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village
of Purnuškės some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point,
which can be reached by driving out of the city on the A14
in the direction of Molėtai and looking for the signs, has been
commemorated with the construction of an expensive monu-
ment, a fact that may go a long way to explaining why a recent
recalculation placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer
to Vilnius is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped
nation. Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a con-
cept and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair
slightly ridiculous in the first place.
GREEN BRIDGE (ŽALIASIS TILTAS)
A bridge of one description or another has stood on the
spot of the Green Bridge since 1536. The current 103-me-
tre metal construction dates from 1952 and was originally
named after a Red Army general. The four groups of ex-
traordinary sculptures at each corner represent agriculture
(3.2m, sculptors B. Bučas and P. Vaivada), industry and con-
struction (3.2m, sculptors N. Petrulis and B. Vyšniauskas),
peace (4m, sculptor B. Pundzius) and that old Soviet chest-
nut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J. Mikėnas and J. Kėdainis). One
of a few examples of blatantly Soviet art still in a public
STS. JOHNS’ CHURCH
BELFRY
The belfry of the magnificent Sts. Johns’ Church - sep-
arate from the actual church itself - is, at 60 metres,
the tallest building in the Old Town. It was erected in
the 16th century, before being remodelled in a late-
Baroque style in the 18th century. Alas the viewing
deck (accessed by stairs or a new lift) is closed in win-
ter (it reopens in May) so you will have to admire this
particular Vilnius landmark from the outside.QC-3, Šv.
Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 219 30 29. J
64 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 65 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
What to see What to see
place, the Socialist Realist masterpieces have evaded re-
moval on the grounds that they represent no real people
living or dead. Criminally rusting and falling apart, some-
thing needs to be done to ensure that they stay around for
many years to come. Meanwhile, underneath the bridge
can be found Kunotas Vildžiūnas’ contemporary work
Grandinė (Chain). Yawn.QB-0. J
HILL OF THREE CROSSES (TRIJŲ KRYŽIŲ KAL-
NAS) Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks
were crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century,
Stalin had the crosses removed and buried, and only in
1989 were they rebuilt according to the original plans.
The crosses are a great symbol of both Lithuanian mourn-
ing and hope. An excellent view of Old Town is also to be
found at this spot.QX-1. J
KENESA
The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim are the smallest ethnic
historical community in Vilnius, with just 150 or so remain-
ing members of a people who settled in the region in the
14th century. The Karaite, from whom they get their name,
are a Jewish sect who can be traced back to Mesopotamia
(modern day Iraq) who adhere to the Old Testament and
the Decalogue, but don’t accept the Talmud. The Lithu-
anian Karaite were originally Tatars living on the Black Sea,
almost certainly Muslim and who were converted to the
Karaite faith in the 13th century. Enigmatic and as yet not
properly understood, the Lithuanian Karaite, who number
less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge of extinction.
During the Soviet occupation, their Moorish-looking
kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into a ware-
house. Like the country’s other remaining kenesa in Trakai,
the building is almost always locked.QF-3, Liubarto 6.
LITERATŲ GATVĖ
Inspired by Aidas Marčėnas’s poem Literatų Gatvė about a
wistful young man drinking and smoking with his friends
on the street of the same name, the highly recommended
permanent outdoor gallery on Literatų is dedicated to
writers past and present who’ve all left their mark on the
city. Comprised of small, mixed-media prints, drawings
and paintings celebrating everyone from Jonas Mekas to
Czesław Miłosz to Romain Gary, the gallery, all the work
of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in 2008 and
now features over 100 superb pieces.QC-3, Literatų. J
M. K. ČIURLIONIS’ HOUSE (M. K. ČIURLIONIO NA-
MAI) Although more famous for his painting, Mikalojus
Konstantinas Čiurlionis (1875-1911) has quite a reputation
as a composer. This is the house in which the great man
lived for a short time in a small room that can be visited.
The rest of the building, which during Čiurlionis’ time was
both a family house and a shop, features reproductions of
his paintings and a small concert space which stages musi-
cal productions: check the website to see when the next
performance is.QC-4, Savičiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24
51, www.mkcnamai.lt. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free. J
PALACE OF THE GRAND DUKES OF LITHUANIA
(LIETUVOS DIDŽIOSIOS KUNIGAIKŠTYSTĖS
VALDOVŲ RŪMAI) A reproduction of an original
building dating back to the 15th century that for four
centuries served as the political and cultural centre of
the multi-ethnic, multi-faith Grand Duchy of Lithuania
and that was demolished by the occupying Russians at
the start of the 19th century, the new Palace of the Grand
Dukes of Lithuania opened with much fanfare in 2009
as part of the country’s thousandth anniversary only
to be closed again almost immediately due to a lack of
anything to see inside it. Widely criticised as a patriotic
white elephant using up vast amounts of money that
should have been directed at other more important (and
original) historical buildings in need of repair, the palace
recently reopened its doors with the help of a speech
by the current Lithuanian president Dalia Grybauskaitė.
Permanent parts of the museum include a history of the
development of the original building and the parallel
history that went with it, plus there are plenty of tempo-
rary exhibitions promised for the future. For up to date
information about exhibitions and events in English and
seven other European languages, see the palace’s web-
site.QC-2, Katedros 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 07, info@
valdovurumai.lt, www.valdovurumai.lt. Open 11:00 -
18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
€2.90/1.45. JA
PLANETARIUM (PLANETARIUMAS)
A classic 60s sci-fi adventure of the old school, Vilnius’
dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for
pre-arra nged tours of 15 people or more or take your
chance at the times listed below if you number less than
15 people in total. Featuring a galaxy of projectors aimed
at the inside of the building’s dome, shows include the
fabulously named Venture into Space and Stars and Music.
Find the entrance on Šnipiškių, immediately south of Kon-
stitucijos.QA-00, Konstitucijos 12a, tel. (+370) 615 770
54, www.planetarium.lt. By appointment. Admission
€2.90/1.74. J
PRESIDENTIAL PALACE (PREZIDENTŪRA)
The official residence of the President of Lithuania, the
Presidential Palace started life in the 14th century as a
much smaller structure built at the behest of the city’s
first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzębiec (?-1398). Gaining its late
Classical appearance much later, the building remained
the home of the cream of the city’s Catholic clergy until
the 1795 Partition when it became the residential address
of Vilnius’ tsarist governors. Many illustrious figures have
spent a night in the building over the centuries, among
them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte and local boy,
some-time dictator, military giant and Polish national hero
Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) to name but a few. After inde-
pendence in 1990 the building served several purposes
until assuming its current role in 1997. The presidential flag
can be seen flying over the building when the President
is in residence or in the city. Changing of the Guard takes
place on Sundays at 12:00.QC-2/3, S. Daukanto 3, www.
president.lt. Free tours of the Presidential Palace take
place on Fridays and Saturdays. Tours are limited to 25
people. For more information, see www.president.lt or
call tel. (+370) 706 640 73. J
STEBUKLAS
About halfway between the Cathedral and the bell tower
is the stebuklas, or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone be-
lieved to perform wonders and with the word stebuklas
written on it, the site marks the spot where one end of the
human chain of some two million protesting Lithuanians,
Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tal-
linn was formed on August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom
and hope, stand on the miracle, turn a complete clockwise
circle and make a wish.QC-2, Arkikatedros Square. J
TELEVISION TOWER (TELEVIZIJOS BOKŠTAS)
The tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television
Tower was built from reinforced concrete and steel be-
tween 1974 and 1980 to a design by V. Obydovas and K.
Balėnas. On January 13, 1991 as the disintegration of the
USSR reached a frenzied pace and Moscow attempted to
retake control of the Lithuanian media, Soviet tanks sur-
rounded it in an assault that killed 13 unarmed civilians.
The tower has since become a potent Lithuanian symbol.
Around it are a few monuments and photographs of those
who lost their lives and whose names the nearby streets
are now called in honour of. Inside at ground level is the
small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January 13th Exhibition)
commemorating the brutal events including a copy of the
original Soviet military attack plan, weapons used to beat
protesters and some disturbing photographs. The exhibi-
tion is free, although the 40-second ride in the lift to visit
the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station isn’t.
The ticket office also sells several Television Tower souve-
nirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the region
of €6. Alternatively, take trolleybus Nº 16 from the train sta-
tion to the Televizijos Bokštas stop. Nºs 1 and 3 and bus
Nº 2G also stop nearby.QSausio 13-osios 10, tel. (+370) 5
252 53 33, www.tvbokstas.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 22:00. Admission €6.08/4.05/2.61.
TOWN HALL (ROTUŠĖ)
First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates
from the 15th century, while the present Classical structure
was built at the end of the 18th century. In 1810 the gover-
nor general ordered that the Town Hall housed a theatre,
which gave performances on and off until 1924. Since then
its interior has been a museum. Until the reestablishment
of independence it served as the Lithuanian Art Museum.
Today it’s the Artists’ Palace where you can see gallery
art.QC-4, Didžioji 31, tel. (+370) 5 261 80 07, www.
vilniausrotuse.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Exhibitions held at the Town Hall are
open to visitors, but note that during some events the
building can be closed to the public. Check the Town
Hall’s website vilniausrotuse.lt for up-to-the-minute
information regarding opening times. J
Vilnius
Bernardinų g. 9-4, tel. +370 5 212 29 24
Kaunas
I. Kanto g. 21-4, tel. +370 37 20 99 97
Klaipėda
S. Šimkaus g. 21-4, tel. +370 46 41 18 14
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What to see What to see
VILNIUS UNIVERSITY (VILNIAUS UNIVERSITE-
TAS) Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universi-
ties in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes
up Vilnius University’s main campus buildings embraces
just about every major architectural style of the last 400
years. Originally belonging to the Catholic Church, the
University became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and
has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th
and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past
students who’ve studied here include the Polish Romantic
poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki, the Lithu-
anian author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him
on any 100Lt note) and the Lithuania-born Polish Nobel
Prize-winning author Czesław Miłosz. As well as housing
the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also
famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on
your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12
or 13. The University itself claims 13, although by rights
the correct number should be 12 as one of them only
has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during
construction work on the neighbouring Presidential Pal-
ace. The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well
worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto
7 explaining where everything is.QC-2/3, Universiteto 3,
tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.vu.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun (March 1 - October 31). Open 09:30 - 17:30.
Closed Sun (November 1 - February 28). Admission
€1.50/0.50. J
MONUMENTS
FRANK ZAPPA
Hot Rats! Deceased rock and roll pervert, part-time classi-
cal composer, father of Moon Unit and all round creative
genius Frank Vincent Zappa (1940-1993) has had his head
immortalised in brass and stuck on a stainless steel pole
in a lacklustre courtyard just west of Old Town. Com-
missioned by a student and created by the late sculptor
Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011) who once churned
out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for the bu-
reaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being the
first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the
world. If you’re now wondering what the connection be-
tween Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, don’t. There isn’t one.
QA-3, K. Kalinausko 1. J
MINDAUGAS
Taking pride of place outside the National Museum since
July 6, 2003, the 750th anniversary of the crowning of
the country’s one and only king in 1253, Mindaugas (Pol.
Mendog, 1200-1263), who’s generally considered to be the
founder of the Lithuanian state, was a bit of a character
to say the least. Clumsy in his personal affairs and switch-
ing from paganism to Catholicism and back to paganism
to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventually assassinated
by his nephew and served as little more than a footnote
in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by the na-
tional revival movement of the late 19th century. R. Mid-
vikis’ granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his
sostas (throne), from which the Lithuanian language gets
its word for capital, sostinė, literally ‘the place where the
throne is’.QC-1, Arsenalo 1. J
UŽUPIS ANGEL
After a long and singularly strange career as an oversized
egg cup, the tall pillar in the heart of Vilnius’ breakaway
republic Užupis (where every dog has the right to be a
dog) finally gave birth to a long awaited angel on April 1,
2002, the official independence day of the wacky district.
After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling ceremony,
the covers were finally lifted, and in a big burst of billow-
ing balloons the surprisingly beautiful figure of an angel
was revealed, playing a trumpet and generally being
rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian sculptor R.
Vilčiauskas, find it at the junction of Užupio and Malūnų.
QD-3, Užupio. J
PARKS & GARDENS
Although they like to flee en masse to the countryside
during the warmer part of the year, the good people of
Vilnius are also fond of spending time in the city’s many
public green spaces. Regardless of the fact that there’s very
little in the way of chaos to get away from, Vilnius’ parks
and gardens can still provide a welcome relief from the im-
mediate concerns of the 21st century. Here are some of the
highlights.
BERNARDINŲ SODAS (SEREIKIŠKIŲ PARKAS)
Nestled inside a loop of the Vilnia river just east of Old
Town, this immensely popular place for walks at any time
of year was once the site of the city’s late 18th-century
botanical gardens. Redesigned and renamed the Youth
Park after WWII, the park has recently seen the benefit of a
massive investment and is looking better than ever. Boasts
loads of avant garde fountains, rock gardens and some of
the best childrens’ playgrounds in the city. Well worth your
time.QD-2, B. Radvilaitės 6b. Open 07:00 - 22:00. J
KALNŲ PARKAS
Covering some 25 hectares immediately northeast of
Old Town at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia, Kalnų
Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular retreat for walks and, during
the summer, concerts on the park’s Soviet-era outdoor
stage. Also home to the Hill of Three Crosses (see Places
of interest), the area the park now occupies is shrouded
in a number of contentious mysteries. The so-called Gedi-
mino Kapo Kalnas (Gediminas’ Grave Hill) for example,
one of the park’s four hills and now a spiritual gathering
ground for many followers of the country’s pagan Romuva
organisation, is supposedly the site where the founder of
the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Grand Duke Gediminas (ca.
1275-1341) is buried. No such evidence exists to support
the claim however.QX-1. J
VINGIO PARKAS
Situated to the west of the city along the meandering
Neris river, this wooded park covering 160 hectares of pine
woods was famed as far back as the 16th century. It’s be-
lieved that Alexander I was at a ball here when he received
news of Napoleon’s invasion in 1812, an event mentioned
in Tolstoy’s War and Peace. The park is more famous these
days as the setting for rock concerts, firework displays, jog-
ging and the launching of hot-air balloons during balmy
summer evenings. Also within its confines are a botanical
gardens and a fabulous little children’s zoo.QE-4.
CEMETERIES
Vilnius’ extraordinary cemeteries offer an often emotional
and always interesting journey through the rich tapestry of
races and cultures that built the city. For information on the
city’s two Jewish cemeteries, see Jewish Vilnius.
ANTAKALNIS CEMETERY (ANTAKALNIO KAPI-
NĖS) Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way back
in 1809, the so-called Soldiers’ Cemetery (Karių Kapinės)
can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple
of kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers’
graveyard, distinguished by undulating rows of identical
headstones, lies to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands
a small collection of Tartar graves complete with Islamic
symbols. To the left and deeper into the cemetery, large
Soviet soldiers guard the (no-longer burning) eternal
flame. To the soldiers’ right is the ghastly Soviet memo-
rial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuania’s dignitaries.
Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the ‘red star’
graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian
partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the
border guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on
July 31, 1991 and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroop-
ers during the January 1991 demonstrations, all guarded
by a stunning Pietà. Still in use, among the more notable
recent additions are a large patch of grass surrounded by
a tiny concrete wall and containing the remains of the
Napoleonic soldiers discovered in the city in 2002, and
the final resting place of the often overlooked Lithuanian
composer Antanas Rekašius (1928-2003).QJ/K-2, Karių
Kapų 11.
BERNARDINE CEMETERY (BERNARDINŲ KAPI-
NĖS) Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the cem-
etery is perhaps the most attractive and romantic ceme-
tery in Vilnius. Located over a little less than four hectares
on a rolling hill running down to the Vilnia river, the cem-
etery fell into disrepair soon after WWII before being fi-
nally shut in 1970. Independence has seen it flourish with
the assistance of the Lithuanian and Polish governments,
although much work remains to be done. Of particular
interest are the columbaria, once used for holding urns
full of ashes and now slowly crumbling away. Among
the eminent university professors, scientists and painters
buried here find a few surprises including Geleda Dzer-
zhinskaja (1849-1896), whose claim to fame was giving
birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Felix
Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas Dzeržinskis).QJ-4, Žvirgždyno
3. J
LITHUANIAN KARAITE & TATAR CEMETERY
(KARAIMŲ IR TOTORIŲ KAPINĖS) Following the
destruction in the mid-1960s of the original cemetery in
Lukiškės, the former traditional home of the city’s Lithua-
nian Karaite and Tatar communities, a new cemetery was
opened in a remote area in the southern part of Vilnius
close to the airport. Among the graves, which are marked
in an extraordinary mixture of Hebrew (Lithuanian Kara-
ite) and Arabic (Tatar), is that of the Lithuanian Karaite
scientist, historian and head of the Lithuanian and Polish
Karaite communities Chadži Seraja Chan Šapšalas (Pol.
Hadżi Seraja Chan Szapszał, 1873-1961). The cemetery is
still in use, but is generally closed to visitors (although
the fence surrounding it is hardly very high). According to
tradition, women are forbidden from visiting. Find it on
the stretch of Žirnių to the east of the road to the airport,
before the ski slopes on the north side.QŽirnių.
RASOS CEMETERY (RASŲ KAPINĖS)
Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of many of
the country’s social elite, this extraordinary cemetery
stretched over a large area divided by a main road is still
in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the
cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the
artist and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas Čiurlionis
(1875-1911), the author and publicist Jonas Basanavičius
(1851-1927), whose grave is inscribed with a peculiar, 19th-
century version of Lithuanian that predates its written
standardisation, and the heart of Marshall Józef Piłsudski
(1867-1935), the local-born Polish general who played a
key role in re-establishing Polish independence in 1918
as well as the country’s subsequent annexation of Vilnius
in 1920. Buried with his mother under a black granite slab
and surrounded by the graves of Polish soldiers, the rest
of him lies in Poland’s most sacred burial place under
Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral.QI/J-5, Rasų/Sukilėlių.
VINGIO PARKAS SOLDIERS CEMETERY (VIL-
NIAUS VINGIO PARKO KARIŲ KAPINĖS) A cem-
etery of one sort or another has been known to exist
here since victims of the plague were buried on the site
in 1710. During the German occupation of Vilnius during
WWI the cemetery was used for soldiers from the Ger-
man, Turkish, Polish and Russian armies. In 1948 at the
height of the destruction of the final resting places of
many of the former inhabitants of the city, the Soviet
authorities ripped up the gravestones and the site lay
abandoned until 1980 when it was unceremoniously
turned into a children’s playground and public toilet.
Thanks to the efforts of the Germans, the 6.5 hectare
site was renovated in 2001, with various markers and a
large monument placed where specific burial sites were
known to exist. At the eastern entrance of Vingio Parkas,
the cemetery offers a poignant glimpse inside the former
rich ethnic tapestry that once made up the population of
the city.QF-4, M. K. Čiurlionio
www.inyourpocket.com
68 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 69 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Trakai Jewish Vilnius
JEWISH LIFE
CHABAD LUBAVITCH CENTRE (CHABAD LU-
BAVITCH ŽYDŲ RELIGINĖ BENDRUOMENĖ) This
combined community centre and synagogue is engaged
in numerous religious projects aimed at enlightening
those who need enlightening and restoring the spirit and
sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born
Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in
Lithuania over the last decade and a half, Chabad is espe-
cially known for its festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at
which everybody is welcome. It also supplies visitors with
kosher food.QD-4, Bokšto 19/12, tel. (+370) 615 838 44.
Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
CHORAL SYNAGOGUE (CHORALINĖ SINAGOGA)
Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the only one out of
over 100 prewar Jewish prayer houses that still functions.
The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a
choir section, a feature considered by some a revolution-
ary form of modernisation and assimilation at the time it
was built.QH-4, Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Open
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. J
JEWISH COMMUNITY OF LITHUANIA (LIETUVOS
ŽYDŲ BENDRUOMENĖ) This is the country’s primary
address for its living Jewish people, providing a wide
range of cultural, communal and social services from kin-
dergarten through to senior level. Led by the redoubtable
Dr. Shimon Alperovich (Simonas Alperavičius), legendary
for standing up for Jewish rights however and whenever
the community comes under challenge. Along with the
two functioning houses of worship, this is where you can
meet the genuine Jewish locals. The building also houses a
youth club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto
and Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII
Jewish Veterans.QA-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 03,
www.lzb.lt. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
MUSEUMS
HOLOCAUST EXPOSITION (HOLOKAUSTO EKSPO-
ZICIJA) The smallest but most important and best known
component of the three addresses that collectively comprise
the city’s Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also
known as the Green House) has been led for many years by
the indomitable champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel
Kostanian. The museum is famous for its accurate account
of the Holocaust in Lithuania and the massive local involve-
ment in the actual killing. Its modest, old-fashioned exhibits
are far from high modern, but the heartfelt creation of local
Holocaust survivors. Outside is a small monument to Japan’s
pre-war Vice Consul to Lithuania, Chiune Sugihara, who issued
thousands of visas against orders, saving many Jews from cer-
tain death. Find it at the top of a steep driveway and invisible
to anyone simply walking along on the street below.QA-2,
Pamėnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30, www.jmuseum.
lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat. Admission €2./1.1. J
JEWISH TOURS
Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew
through the Baltics and Belarus.
Yulik Gurevitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09
Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85
Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56
Justina Petrauskaitė Tel. (+370) 699 540 64
Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91
First mentioned in 1337 by the Teutonic Knights and one of
Lithuania’s former medieval capitals, despite being home to
just 5,400 souls the town of Trakai and the national park it’s
located in provide plenty of opportunities for visitors to expe-
rience and enjoy this unique part of the world. Crowned by
a magnificent Gothic castle, the town of Trakai is well known
for its many different inhabitants both past and present,
among them Lithuanians, Jews, Poles (who still make up a
substantial percentage of the population and who know the
town as Troki), Russians, Tatars and the Lithuanian Karaite,
an intriguing, Turkic-speaking offshoot of the larger Judaic
Karaite movement who arrived in the town from the Crimea
at the end of the 14th century and who are currently tee-
tering on the border of extinction. Just 28km west of Vilnius,
Trakai is both a tempting daytrip as well as a destination wor-
thy of further attention thanks to the aforementioned park.
ARRIVING
Several ludicrously cheap buses leave daily from Vilnius’bus sta-
tion, starting before dawn and running until the early evening.
The journey time is around 30-40 minutes. As with the train sta-
tion (see below) it’s also a ridiculously long way away from the
main sights, a good 20-minute walk north up Vytauto. Starting
and ending around the same time as the buses although run-
ning less frequently, trains take about 40 minutes to make the
journey and cost buttons. Taxis are usually parked outside both
the bus and train stations. A trip to the centre shouldn’t cost
more than €2. To reach Trakai by road, take the A1 (E85) high-
way west out of the city, followed by the A4 in the direction of
Druskininkai before turning on to the A16 (E28) highway which
takes you the rest of the way. Driving time depends on traffic,
and can take anything from 20 minutes to an hour or more. A
taxi, if called in advance, will cost €17-29.
BUS STATIONQVytauto 90, tel. (+370) 528 513 33,
www.trakuautobusai.lt. Open 07:00 - 20:00.
TRAIN STATION QVilniaus 5, tel. (+370) 528 510 55,
www.litrail.lt. It works 15 minutes before train leaves.
WHERE TO EAT
To visit Trakai and not eat kibinai is like going to Japan and cir-
cumventing the noodles. As well as the aforementioned Karaite
speciality, the town can also provide sustenance from one or
two other corners of the world. Don’t expect too much in the
way of fine dining, but do be thankful that you won’t have to
pack sandwiches.
GEORGIAN
PIROSMANI
Named after Georgia’s most famous painter, this large
round restaurant overlooks one of the town’s lakes and
can be found on the walk into town on the left of the main
road. The menu is bursting with classic and extremely
good Georgian food, plus there’s a small barbecue out-
side which churns out spectacular grilled meat during
PANERIAI MEMORIAL MUSEUM (PANERIŲ ME-
MORIALINIS MUZIEJUS) Between July 1941, and
August 1944, approximately 100,000 people were mur-
dered at this site by the Nazis, assisted by some Lithua-
nians from such sinister organisations as the Ypatingasis
Būrys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic but necessary
part of any Jewish-related visit to Lithuania, find several
monuments and the remains of the pits where the vic-
tims were burned. The museum, inside a small building
on the murder site, features exhibits in a mix of lan-
guages including everything from stomach-churning
photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job
it was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold.
Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the
Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of
Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get
off at Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The
site is at the very end of the road. To get there by car,
drive out on Savanorių in the direction of Kaunas until
you reach the E28 highway, peel off here and look for
the pitifully few signs put up in order to help you get
there. For a chilling, eye-witness account of the events
that took place here, read Kazimierz Sakowicz’s extraor-
dinary book Ponary Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale.
QAgrastų 17, tel. (+370) 680 812 78. Open 09:00 -
17:00. Closed Mon. By appointment only. Admission
free for individual visitors. For groups of up to 30
people €23.17, up to 15 people €14.48.
STATUES & MEMORIALS
JEWISH CEMETERY (ŽYDŲ KAPINĖS)
By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were de-
stroyed after the war. With the help of foreign diplomacy
only a few graves of famous people such as the Gaon of
Vilna were moved here in a concession to the community.
This new Jewish cemetery was actually opened just before
the war and nowadays, especially on Sundays, is a place
where Jewish people visit the graves of their beloved and
you can meet interesting locals. The Gaon’s grave attracts
visitors from many countries who leave notes of supplica-
tion by the graveside. To the left of the entrance is a small
office where maps of the cemetery can be obtained if it’s
open. Gravestones are covered in the writing of many lan-
guages including Yiddish, Lithuanian, Russian, Polish and
English. To get there by public transport from the centre,
take bus Nº73 from the Lukiškės stop or Nº43 from the sta-
tion.QE-1, Sudervės Kelias 28.
the summer.QKaraimų 2, tel. (+370) 528 561 78, www.
pirosmani.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €4. PTULSW
KARAITE
KARAIMŲ 13
This building made of whitewashed logs doesn’t look very
Karaite at all. It’s not colourful and it’s got more than three
windows. But it is very Karaite because it’s home to both the
Karaite Community Centre and a lovely little restaurant with
authentic Karaite food. The menu offers a range of Karaite
dishes that extend beyond the usual pastry pockets, and the
service is pleasant and prompt. A good spot tucked away from
the meandering crowds.QKaraimų 13, tel. (+370) 528 519 11,
www.karaimai.lt. Open 11:00 - 20:00. €4. JALS
KYBYNLAR
In a word, magnificent. This hugely popular Karaite res-
taurant is a must-see for anyone visiting Trakai. Alongside
their delicious classic beef or mutton (not lamb, as it says
on the menu) kibinai is a small collection of other Karaite
dishes plus a few more of Turkic origin. Highly recom-
mended is the šorpa, a fabulous soup complete with big
lumps of beef and potato and just a hint of spicy warmth.
The small winter restaurant expands to mammoth propor-
tions during the summer, making for a truly lively place to
eat and drink. They even do take-away.QKaraimų 29, tel.
(+370) 528 551 79, info@kybynlar.lt, www.kybynlar.lt.
Open 11:00 - 22:00. €6. PTAUSW
70 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 71 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to stay Trakai
PLACES OF INTEREST
UŽUTRAKIS PALACE
In its glory this mansion, built on land formerly occupied
by the local Tatar community, belonged to the promi-
nent Tiškevičius (Polish, Tyszkiewicz) family who lived in
it until 1939. Built in the 19th century in a neo-Renais-
sance style, the palace itself is closed, but the grounds,
designed by the prominent French landscape gardener
Edouard André (1840-1911), have become something of
a tourist attraction. During the summer this is a prime
spot for a picnic or horse riding. A walk around the
palace grounds is free. To get there in good weather,
catch the passenger ship from the Castle and be sure
to mention you want to get off at Užutrakis. Alterna-
tively, a taxi will set you back somewhere in the region
of 30Lt.QUžtrakio 17, tel. (+370) 528 550 06, www.
seniejitrakai.lt. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu. Admission €2.90/1.45.
WHERE TO STAY
Trakai’s accommodation options run the gamut from
leaky tents to presidential suites complete with wireless
internet and Jacuzzis. The only exception is that the town
remains without a youth hostel, although for good value
central accommodation you’ll be pleased to know that
every other house has a room or two to rent.
APVALAUS STALO KLUBAS
About as feminine as it gets, a night here is like some-
thing straight out of Alice In Wonderland. Overlooking
the fairytale Gothic towers of the Castle, the interiors
appear to have been designed by a committee of hair-
dressers and old ladies. If you can handle the frill of it
all, extras include a sauna, two attached restaurants and
wireless internet throughout. This is truly the cream of
the crop, and by far the most expensive option in town.
QKaraimų 53a, tel. (+370) 528 555 95, fax (+370) 528
517 60, info@asklubas.lt, www.asklubas.lt. 17 rooms
(€61 - 223). PTHAR6LKDW hhhh
TRASALIS
A veritable monster of a place 2km south of the town
centre, the owners have put their money where many
others’ mouths are and actually gone and taken a risk in
Trakai. A combined hotel, conference centre, water park
and many other things besides, the rooms are clean and
comfortable, all coming with cable television, free wire-
less internet and showers that knock you over when you
walk in. The price includes two hours in the water park
and an average buffet breakfast. A taxi to the Castle will
set you back around €3.QGedimino 26, tel. (+370) 528
515 88, fax (+370) 528 515 89, hotel@trasalis.lt, www.
trasalis.lt. 103 rooms (€58 - 105). PHARU 
FLKDCW hhh
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant J Old town location
D Sauna C Swimming pool
I Fireplace W Wi-Fi
VAT (21%) and breakfast included unless otherwise
stated.
Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation op-
tions in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in
Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, mean-
ing staying right in the centre is always an option.
CREAM OF THE CROP
KEMPINSKI HOTEL CATHEDRAL SQUARE
Located opposite the Cathedral and tantalisingly close to one
of the best Indian restaurants in Eastern Europe, writing a Kem-
pinski review seems a little daft as they specialise in some of
the best hotels to be found anywhere. Surplus to the location,
the Vilnius Kempinski comes with 96 magic rooms and suites,
exceptional restaurant, bar, luxury spa, meeting facilities and
an awful lot more. If you’re one of the lucky few who can af-
ford to stay here we most certainly recommend that you
give it a try.QC-2, Universiteto 14, tel. (+370) 5 220 11 00,
fax (+370) 5 220 11 60, reservations.vilnius@kempinski.
com, www.kempinski.com/vilnius. 96 rooms (€190 - 2600).
PJHARUFKDCW hhhhh+
RADISSON BLU ASTORIJA
The name, building and location say it all, as indeed does
the list of the great and the good who choose to stay here
when in town. A beautiful collection of rooms and suites
are on offer, some with spectacular views of Old Town. Top
notch accommodation with all the trimmings, plus busi-
ness facilities, swimming pool, express laundry, a French
restaurant and a bar selling some of the freshest local beer
in the city.QC-4, Didžioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 10, fax
(+370) 5 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@radissonblu.com, www.
radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. 119 rooms (€100 - 900).
PJHARUFLKDXCW hhhhh
RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES VILNIUS
Something of a celebrity favourite, this luxurious place has
played host to all sorts of stars, no doubt attracted by its dis-
crete location in a magnificent 16th century building (some-
thing of a sight in itself). The rooms are larger than the Old
Town norm, all boast wonderful large windows and will leave
you feeling that you ought to have paid a lot more. Add in some
good onsite dining and you have a winner.QC-5, Subačiaus
2, tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, hotel@ramadavilnius.lt, www.
ramadavilnius.lt. 55 rooms (€99 - 450). PTJHA 
R6UIFLKXWhhhhh+
RELAIS & CHATEAUX STIKLIAI HOTEL
Occupying a sumptuous building with Gothic and Baroque
elements, the Stikliai is where millionaires have been tak-
ing themselves for a very long time indeed. Old fashioned in
most senses of the term, the fully air-conditioned rooms come
with such treats as satellite and cable television, internet, mini
bars and Turkish baths in the best suites. Sauna, pool, confer-
ence facilities and an equally ostentatious restaurant can also
be found here. It doesn’t come much better than this.QC-3,
Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70,
reservations@stikliaihotel.lt, www.stikliai.com. 43 rooms
(€128 - 1200). PJHAR6UIFKDC 
Whhhhh+
THE NARUTIS HOTEL - PREFERRED BOUTIQUE
Totally gorgeous in every conceivable way, room interiors
include everything from original 16th-century frescoes and
wooden beams to Jacuzzis in the suites. Decorated with the
ultimate in style and panache, there’s no need to roll off a
list of everything in the rooms because they’ve really got it
all. Add to that a location to die for, impeccable service, a
fine restaurant and a magical spa and, if you can afford it,
you’d be a nutter to stay anywhere else.QC-3, Pilies 24, tel.
(+370) 5 212 28 94, fax (+370) 5 262 28 82, reservations@
narutis.com, www.narutis.com. 52 rooms (€170 - 900).
PJHARUIFLKDCWhhhhh+
UPMARKET
AMBERTON HOTEL
It could be made of damp straw and the restaurant could
serve nothing but cabbage and you’d still probably book
a room once you saw the view. Not that it is made of damp
straw we should point out, and of course the restaurant’s
pretty good too. Expect free internet in the rooms, minibars
and all mod cons, good mannered staff and one of the best
restaurants in the city next door in fact. An absolute winner
for both facilities and location.QB-2, L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus
1, tel. (+370) 5 210 74 61, fax (+370) 5 210 74 60, vilnius@
amberton.lt, www.ambertonhotels.com. 98 rooms (€75 -
149). PJHARULKW hhhh
ART HOTEL MOON GARDEN
It took almost two years to complete the renovation of this
historic building, and the results suggest that it was more
than worth the wait. A superb mix of the old and the new
there is a great mix of stylish design on show, from the
bare brickwork (all original) in some rooms to ornamental
wallpaper in others. The onsite restaurant is superb, the
staff are outstanding and overall you are in for a delightful
experience.QC-5, Bazilijonų 10, tel. (+370) 5 219 99 49,
fax (+370) 5 219 94 80, welcome@moongardenhotel.
com, www.moongardenhotel.com. 18 rooms (€70 -
250). JAUIKW hhhh
CASTLE
Drawing mild comparisons to the
vast, red brick Teutonic fortress in
the Polish town of Malbork, Trakai
Castle (or Trakai Island Castle as it’s
also known) may not be as grand
as its Germanic cousin to the west,
but what it lacks in stature it more
than makes up for in location. Sat
splendidly on a diminutive Lake Galvė island in the north-
ern end of the town, construction on this Gothic master-
piece began in the 14th century at the behest of the then
ruler of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania Kęstutis, and was
completed at the start of the 15th century by his son, Vy-
tautas the Great. Built as part of an expansion programme
of the neighbouring Peninsular Castle, its completion came
at more or less the same time that its military importance
came to an end after the victory of the combined Polish-
Lithuanian armies led by Vytautas against the Teutonic
Order at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, Žalgiris) in
1410. Its second life as a residential palace saw it enter a
golden age, with the Castle visited and admired by many
foreign dignitaries including the Flemish diplomat Guille-
bert de Lannoy (1386-1462), who mentioned it favourably
in his memoirs. The Castle’s demise came with the war with
Muscovy in 1655, which saw it seriously damaged and
eventually abandoned. Attempts to rebuild it have been
ongoing since the 19th century, with the usual wars and
border changes complicating each new project as it arose.
Ironically it was during the Soviet occupation of Lithuania
that the Castle was eventually restored to its former glory,
with work beginning soon after the end of WWII.
CASTLE & TRAKAI HISTORY MUSEUM (TRAKŲ
PILIS IR TRAKŲ ISTORIJOS MUZIEJUS) More like
playing a giant game of snakes and ladders designed
by MC Escher than an enriching cultural experience, the
Trakai History Museum is spread around the Castle and
linked via a baffling array of higgledy-piggledy wooden
steps and dark, plunging spiral staircases. The two main
collections are to be found inside the western casemates
(casements) and the Ducal Palace, the former and least
interesting made up of 19th-century European glassware,
ivory walking stick handles and the like and the latter a
collection of items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a
huge collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to
the Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval gentle-
men with enormous handlebar moustaches. Some
explanations are in English, but much remains in Lithu-
anian, Russian and German only. More than worth it for a
look around the Castle if nothing else.QKęstučio 4, tel.
(+370) 528 539 46, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. Open
10:00 - 19:00 (May 1 - September 30). Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. (March, April and October).
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (November 1 - Feb-
ruary 28). Admission €5.21/3.48/2.32.
trakai.inyourpocket.com
72 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 73 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to stay Where to stay
THE STAR AND PLUS SYSTEM
This guide uses the star system as defined by the State
Department of Tourism under the Ministry of Economy
in which stars and pluses are awarded for amenities of-
fered, and don’t necessarily reflect the quality of those
amenities or the standard of service provided.
ARTIS CENTRUM HOTELS
Perfectly located between Old Town and Gedimino, this
large white birthday cake-looking hotel has been ca-
tering to a better class of guest for years. Surplus to the
marvellous views from the upper front rooms are air-
conditioning throughout, Pay TV, internet access and for
the nervous, peepholes in all the doors. Good for healthy-
minded visitors, the hotel also manages to pack in a gym
and swimming pool.QB-3, Totorių 23, tel. (+370) 5 266
03 66, fax (+370) 5 266 03 77, artis@centrumhotels.com,
www.artis.centrumhotels.com. 118 rooms (€79 - 219).
PJHARUFLKDCWhhhh+
ATRIUM
One of the favourite choices of visiting big-wigs and other
VIPs, Atrium blends together the antiquities of Old Town
with the very best of modern hotel accommodation to
great effect. Complete with minibars, heated bathroom
floors and everything else you’d expect when handing
over this much money in return for a bed for the night,
extras include conference facilities, sauna, a cracking little
Argentinean restaurant and arguably the best location in
Vilnius.QC-2, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, fax (+370)
5 210 77 70, hotel@atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt. 30 rooms
(€60 - 140). PJHA6ULKDW hhhh
BEST WESTERN VILNIUS
Located in the heart of the city’s main business district just
north of the river, the four-star Best Western Vilnius is accord-
ingly geared towards business travellers although there’s no
reason why anybody else can’t stay there either. A wealth of
tastefully decorated rooms plus a gorgeous apartment with
its own sauna are available, all coming with wireless internet,
satellite television, minibars and other treats. A taxi to Old
Town costs less than €3.QA-00, Konstitucijos 14, tel. (+370)
5 273 95 95, fax (+370) 5 273 95 00, ofce@vilniushotel.eu,
www.vilniushotel.eu. 114 rooms (€79 - 232). PJHA 
R6UFLKDCW hhhh
CONGRESS
If this hotel was a person, it would proudly strut about and
puff its chest out. And rightly so. Everything has a neat,
tidy confidence about it, and even if you’re in a standard
room, the place has an elegant yet business-class feel
about it. We also like the free wireless internet. After a
good night’s rest you’ll be ready to take on the town, and
will find yourself conveniently located mid-way between
Old Town and the business district north of the river.QB-
0, Vilniaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 269 19 19, fax (+370) 5 251 42
80, info@congress.lt, www.congress.lt. 79 rooms (€87 -
290). PJHAFLKDW hhhh
CONTI
A good choice of singles, doubles, business class rooms,
suites and apartments inside a well located hotel boasting
a splendid jumble of old and new. Rooms come with the
absolute minimum of internet connections, satellite televi-
sion and minibars with add-ons including such opulence
as a Jacuzzi in the luxury room and apartments. The lobby
café’s a nice place for quiet drink, plus the upper floors
provide some fabulous views of the city.QB-5, Raugyklos
7/2, tel. (+370) 5 251 41 11, fax (+370) 5 251 41 00, info@
contihotel.lt, www.contihotel.lt. 88 rooms (€81 - 275).
PTJHAR6UFLKDW hhhh
CROWNE PLAZA VILNIUS
The only remaining features of Inturist’s flagship Hotel
Friendship are the foundations, one or two arty internal
elements and the views, the latter being some of the
greenest and most pleasant in the city. Plonked west of
the centre on the edge of one of the capital’s finest parks,
this business class box is a favourite among professionals
travelling individually or as part of a group who are there
to use the fine conference facilities. The 16th-floor restau-
rant-bar offers one of the prettiest places to get plastered
in Lithuania.QF-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 84, tel. (+370) 5 274
34 00, fax (+370) 5 274 34 11, hotel@cpvilnius.com,
www.cpvilnius.com. 108 rooms (€69 - 149). PHA 
RUFLKDXCWhhhh+
DVARAS (MANOR HOUSE)
Celebrating the former manor house status of the build-
ing it’s located in, Dvaras is a small hotel with grand ideas,
noticeable in everything from the décor to the price. Just
eight rooms, from singles to luxury suites, are on offer, all
given an old world treatment and all coming with life’s
little luxuries. There’s a couple of fancy restaurants as well,
all of it packaged together just a two-minute walk from
the Cathedral.QC-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 70, fax
(+370) 5 261 87 83, hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt. 8
rooms (€76 - 129). PJHARLKW hhhh
EUROPA ROYALE VILNIUS
The Europa chain’s flagship Vilnius hotel continues to offer
high standards of service in an admirable Old Town location
that’s hard to beat. The choice of individual rooms and suites
is impressive, with even the most basic featuring mini bars,
free wireless internet, air-conditioning and satellite televi-
sion. Also find meeting rooms, international press and the
fabulous Medininkai restaurant. One of the better places
to stay in town if you can afford it.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 6,
tel. (+370) 5 266 07 70, fax (+370) 5 261 20 00, vilnius@
europaroyale.com, www.europaroyale.com. 54 rooms
(€64 - 279). PJHA6ULKW hhhh
GROTTHUSS BOUTIQUE HOTEL
This excellent boutique hotel in a quiet Old Town street
contains 20 rooms and suites complete with Italian furni-
ture, original art on the walls, wireless internet, minibars
and satellite television. Favoured by well-heeled visitors
who like the personal touch, the hotel also features an
in-house gourmet restaurant and state of the art busi-
ness facilities.QB-5, Ligoninės 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03
22, fax (+370) 5 266 03 23, info@grotthusshotel.com,
www.grotthusshotel.com. 20 rooms (€100 - 150).
JHAR6ILKXWhhhh+
HOLIDAY INN VILNIUS
Just over the river in the northern business district, Vilnius’
now well established Holiday Inn provides everything one
would expect from one of the world’s best known qual-
ity hotel brands. As well as a superb choice of reassuringly
expensive rooms and suites, extras include a fine in-house
restaurant, bar with big people-watching windows, ample
business facilities and one of the best buffet breakfasts in
the city. The centre can be reached on foot in a matter of
minutes, there are good public transport links in all direc-
tions and a taxi to Old Town is more than affordable assum-
ing you can afford to stay here in the first place.QB-00,
Šeimyniškių 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 30 00, fax (+370) 5 210
30 01, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www.holidayinnvilnius.lt.
134 rooms (€140 - 280). PJHARUFLK 
DXW hhhh
MABRE RESIDENCE
Found inside a fabulous former monastery, some of it dat-
ing back as far as the 17th century, this swanky hotel can
be found on the border of Old Town and Užupis inside a
lovely quiet courtyard. Geared towards all types of trav-
eller with a healthy bank account, rooms veer from more
than adequate singles to the wonderful (and surprisingly
affordable) presidential suite. Surplus to the rooms are
all manner of treats, from the recommended sauna and
small pool to the in-house steak restaurant.QD-3, Mairo-
nio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 95, fax (+370) 5 212 22 40,
mabre@mabre.lt, www.mabre.lt. 40 rooms (€118 - 271).
PJHAR6ULKDXCW hhhh+
NERINGA
The superb Neringa hotel stands out as one of the city cen-
tre’s major business-class hotels. The Scandinavian-styled
rooms come in both standard and superior classes, offer-
ing good value whilst still managing to provide everything
the modern business traveller requires. Extras include a
selection of international newspapers and magazines, a
small pool and the fabulous Neringa restaurant complete
with original Soviet frescoes dating from 1959.QA-1, Gedi-
mino 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 88, fax (+370) 5 212 22 99,
book@neringahotel.com, www.neringahotel.com. 60
rooms (€55 - 139). PJHAR6UFLK 
DXW hhhh
NOVOTEL VILNIUS CENTRE
Great comfort and four-star luxury from the international
Novotel chain inside a large modern building in the heart of
the city. Choices of rooms include Superior and Executive
class as well as a handful of suites, all of them light and spa-
cious, with many featuring magnificent Old Town views.
Facilities inside the rooms all include free internet and a
number of other excellent facilities. The hotel also features
a good restaurant, bar, sauna, fitness centre and business
options in a total of seven rooms complete with full servic-
es.QB-2, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 62 00, fax (+370)
5 266 62 01, h5209@accor.com, www.novotel.com. 159
rooms (€70 - 175). PTJHA6UFLK 
DW hhhh
RADISSON BLU HOTEL LIETUVA
The high-rise Radisson Blu has been one of Vilnius’ defin-
ing landmarks for decades. The bar on the top floor is one
of the city’s legendary drinkers (and a must even if you
are not staying here). Located north of the river it’s nev-
ertheless well within comfortable walking distance of the
Old Town. The rooms themselves are as luxurious as you
would expect, with those on the upper floors boasting
some splendid views. Good in-house restaurants.QA-
00, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, fax (+370)
5 272 62 70, info.lietuva.vilnius@radissonblu.com,
www.radissonblu.com/lietuvahotel-vilnius. 291 rooms
(€69 - 500). POTJHARUFLKDW
hhhh
RATONDA CENTRUM HOTELS
Another fine business-orientated hotel from the Centrum
people, this one being conveniently located close to the
main commercial district along Gedimino and the Seimas
just around the corner. All rooms come with telephone,
pay-television and free internet, with the superior rooms
also boasting air conditioning. Little extras include all the
usual provisions such as room service, laundry, and, if one
has time on one’s hands, the option of tours around Vil-
nius and Lithuania.QG-3, A. Rotundo 1, tel. (+370) 5 212
06 70, fax (+370) 5 210 06 69, ratonda@centrumhotels.
com, www.centrumhotels.com. 48 rooms (€50 - 130).
JHA6UFLKDW hhhh
Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (see p.56)
74 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 75 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to stay Where to stay
SHAKESPEARE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
To book a room, or not to book a room, that is the question.
Dickens, Joyce, Shakespeare of course and Tolstoy all have
rooms named after them in this literary-themed hotel in
one of the quietest and nicest streets in Old Town. Surplus
to the excellent facilities in the rooms, guests all get a free
present on arrival, plus there’s a rather good restaurant
and a refreshingly peaceful and recommended bar to boot.
QD-2, Bernardinų 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, fax (+370)
5 266 58 86, info@shakespeare.lt, www.shakespeare.lt.
31 rooms (€104 - 220). PJHAR6LKXW
hhhh
MID-RANGE
AAA MANO LIZA
A small, family-run hotel in a quiet Old Town backstreet,
this place has been garnering constantly good opinions
seemingly forever. And for good reason. With a boutique
hotel feel, local art on the walls and the now almost stan-
dard inclusion that’s free wireless internet, Mano Liza
offers a personal touch lacking in many similar places.
Those who stumble back in at dawn should take advan-
tage of their much talked about all-day breakfast.QB-5,
Ligoninės 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 25, fax (+370) 5 212 25
08, hotel@AAA.lt, www.hotelinvilnius.lt. 8 rooms (€63 -
147). JARLKW hhh
AIRINN VILNIUS
It’s been a long time coming and finally it’s happened. The
former not very recommended hotel right next door to the
airport has received a full makeover and has been reborn
as a respectable place to stay aimed at business travellers
who need to get up at the crack of dawn and others who
presumably like sleeping next to a runway. Four classes
of room are available, all coming with wireless internet,
minibars and widescreen televisions, plus there’s a host of
communal features including bar, restaurant, conference
facilities and sauna. For what you get the prices seem very
reasonable, so if you’re on an early flight out of the city you
might want to think about spending another 30 minutes
asleep and staying here.QRodūnios Kelias 8, tel. (+370) 5
232 93 04, fax (+370) 5 213 64 63, info@airinn.lt, www.
airinn.lt. 123 rooms (€52 - 86). HA6IFLK 
DW hhh
APIA HOTEL
A small, family-run hotel in a wonderful location in the
heart of Old Town close to several good bars and restau-
rants, all rooms include free internet access and satellite
television plus there’s guarded parking and a friendly
staff to help with whatever you need. Located inside a
collection of fabulously restored 17th century buildings,
news filtering back from previous guests suggests this
one is definitely worth further investigation.QB-3, Šv.
Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26, fax (+370) 5 262 28
82, apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. 12 rooms (€60 - 168).
JAR6LW hhh
CENTRO KUBAS - ANGEL
Angels, windmills, farming implements and an altogether
rustic feel inside another favourite Vilnius hotel. Small
enough for the personal touch to still shine through yet
not too small to cram plenty of useful gadgets in the
rooms. Hidden away down a wiggly Old Town street a
few metres from the historic centre’s main thoroughfare,
it may not be the cheapest option around but if you’re
planning on visiting regularly they do offer a good dis-
count scheme.QC-4, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 60, fax
(+370) 5 266 08 63, hotel@centrokubas.lt, www.hotel.
centrokubas.lt. 14 rooms (€76 - 104). PJHA 
R6ULXW hhh
CITY GATE
Close to the Dawn Gate, just outside Old Town and look-
ing not unlike part of the set from Gunfight at the O.K. Cor-
ral, this lovely little hotel affords a healthy space between
itself and the chaos of Friday night whilst still being just
across the road from the sights. The rooms are decent, all
coming with free wireless internet, plus there’s three con-
ference halls to contemplate for prospective visiting busi-
ness travellers.QC-5, Bazilijonų 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 06,
fax (+370) 5 210 73 07, hotel@citygate.lt, www.citygate.
lt. 29 rooms (€38 - 78). JHAULKW hhh
CITY HOTELS ALGIRDAS
Located inside a grand-looking building close to the ac-
tion and tantalisingly near to a clutch of superb Chinese
restaurants and a 24-hour supermarket, the Algirdas
boasts everything necessary for a comfortable stay. The
well appointed rooms all come with en suite facilities,
wireless internet and a choice of extras according to
price including refrigerators and kettles in the deluxe
rooms. The in-house restaurant also churns out a menu
of better than average food plus the staff on reception
are extremely helpful when it comes to getting hold
of things generally difficult to find.QG-5, Algirdo 24,
tel. (+370) 5 232 66 50, fax (+370) 5 232 66 54, info@
algirdashotel.lt, www.cityhotels.lt. 42 rooms (€41 - 80).
PJHAULKXW hhh+
CITY HOTELS RŪDNINKAI
Situated at one of the city’s former gates and just across
the road from one of the few remaining sections of the
old city wall, this excellent budget option is now part of
the City Hotels group, and offers bright, colourful rooms,
all of which are en suite. There’s free wireless internet
throughout and at the time of writing an in-house Belgian
restaurant, the menu of which includes mussels. A splen-
did location right on the edge of Old Town and within
easy walking distance of the bus and train stations.QB-
5, Rūdninkų 15/46, tel. (+370) 5 261 39 16, fax (+370) 5
212 05 07, info@rudninkaihotel.lt, www.cityhotels.lt. 28
rooms (€52 - 94). PJAULKDW hhh+
COMFORT HOTEL LT
Opened towards the end of the summer in 2012, Comfort
Hotel LT offers flat screen televisions, heated bathroom
floors, free wireless internet, free tea and coffee 24 hours
a day and a lot more, all of it refreshingly close to the ac-
tion and, best of all, all available for one of the best prices
in town for the class. The in-house restaurant gives the
option of eat-all-you-can buffet food, plus there’s even
more free stuff in the form of a gym that’s open around
the clock. Definitely a welcome addition to the city and
very much worth further investigation.QA-6, Mindaugo
27/14, tel. (+370) 5 250 51 11, fax (+370) 685 989 20,
co.vilnius@choice.lt, www.comforthotel.lt. 200 rooms
(€41 - 115). PJHAR6UFLKW hhh
COMFORT VILNIUS
Simplicity and style get together and have a bit of a cud-
dle in this bare-basics but nonetheless comfortable little
hide-away. Basically it’s a cheap-stay option with nice little
touches (such as light-proof curtains and free parking) that
other budget beds come without. A quality bargain.QB-
5, Gėlių 5, tel. (+370) 5 264 88 33, fax (+370) 5 264 88
32, reservation@comfort.lt, www.comfort.lt. 57 rooms
(€59 - 109). JHA6LW hhh
DOMUS MARIA
Excellent value Old Town accommodation inside a 17th
century former Carmelite monastery, find 47 well ap-
pointed rooms including singles, doubles, triples, quads
and luxury, some with splendid views and all with tele-
visions, internet connections and en suite bathroom
facilities. There’s conference facilities available for those
who need them plus an in-house café where meals can
be ordered throughout the day.QC-5, Aušros Vartų 12,
tel. (+370) 5 264 48 80, fax (+370) 5 264 48 78, info@
domusmaria.com, www.domusmaria.lt. 47 rooms (€45
- 126). JHAULKW hhh
EUROPA CITY VILNIUS
The perfect budget business class hotel, featuring com-
fortable rooms with all the conveniences from satellite
television and minibar to top security card keys and inter-
net connections. Add-ons include a fitness centre to keep
in trim whilst you’re working abroad, conference facilities
and a white tablecloth restaurant.QG-4, J. Jasinskio 14,
tel. (+370) 5 251 44 77, fax (+370) 5 251 44 76, vilnius@
europacity.lt, www.europacity.lt. 128 rooms (€49 -
109). Breakfast not included. PJHAR6U 
FLKDXW hhh+
GRATA HOTEL
It’s a bit of a safari to reach reception but once you do finally
manage to find it you’ll be glad you did. Refreshingly welcom-
ing, the hotel, perched on top of the hill not too far from Old
Town, is geared towards the business traveller but that doesn’t
mean you have to wear a suit to stay here. The rooms feature
classic business hotel blue carpets, en suite bathrooms, sat-
ellite television and minibars. A swimming pool is also avail-
able, plus there are further business facilities and the added
bonus of a bowling alley across the street.QG-4, Vytenio
9, tel. (+370) 5 268 33 00, fax (+370) 5 213 27 60, hotel@
gratahotel.com, www.gratahotel.com. 101 rooms (€30 -
119). THAR6ULKDXCW hhh
HOTEL TILTO
An excellent location on a quiet Old Town street close
to the Cathedral and other major sites, Hotel Tilto gar-
ners much praise from those who’ve slept in their beds.
Among the amenities are en suite facilities for all, satel-
lite television and wireless internet access in a choice of
rooms from compact singles through to mini apartments.
The staff are a friendly bunch plus there’s a small bar spe-
cialising in draught Guinness in the cellar.QB-1, Tilto 8/3,
tel. (+370) 5 210 00 21, fax (+370) 5 210 00 20, info@
hoteltilto.com, www.hoteltilto.com. 35 rooms (€62 -
100). PJARKDW hhh
PANORAMA
This surprising hotel rises above its location and offers
wonderful views of Old Town and plenty of comfort and
luxury without steep prices. While it is very convenient to
be across the square from the bus and train stations, it is
a convenience that is also enjoyed by all manner of scum-
bags, vagrants and weary commuters. Being in the freshly
renovated hotel is lovely. Hanging around outside it is not.
Still, it’s just a short stroll and a quick run of the gauntlet to
Old Town, and the combination of views, basic comforts
and reasonable prices is unmatched.QB-6, Sodų 14, tel.
(+370) 5 233 88 22, fax (+370) 5 216 37 89, reception@
hotelpanorama.lt, www.mikotelgroup.com. 224 rooms
(€86 - 155). JHA6ULKW hhh
PARK INN BY RADISSON VILNIUS
Located 6km or so north of the city centre on the main road
north out of the capital, Park Inn by Radisson Vilnius pro-
vides the usual excellent Park Inn experience for visitors of
all persuasions. Featuring 84 Standard and Business Friendly
rooms, facilities include bright and comfortable accommo-
dation with free wireless internet as standard and a host of
other treats. Extras include a restaurant, bar, large meeting
room and free parking.QUkmergės 363, tel. (+370) 5 238
80 00, fax (+370) 5 238 85 55, info.vilnius@rezidorparkinn.
com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-vilnius. 84 rooms (€51 -
87). HAR6ULKXW hhh
Along the river
76 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 77 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Where to stay Where to stay
RINNO
Just west of Old Town in a small, quiet street, Rinno is a
good-looking three-star hotel in an admirable location
for an affordable price. The rooms come in several cat-
egories from the good value standards through to luxury
rooms complete with a large bath and minibar. All rooms
feature free wireless internet, although you should check
first to make sure you get a room close to the wireless
box to make sure the signal is strong enough. All in all a
decent place to stay in an admirable location that won’t
break the bank.QA-4, Vingrių 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28,
fax (+370) 5 262 59 29, info@rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt. 18
rooms (€43 - 99). JHA6LKW hhh
BUDGET
CAMPANILE VILNIUS AIRPORT
This new, recently-opened place is a more than welcome
addition to the still nascent well-priced-accommodation-
in-Vilnius scene. When you check-in here you can expect
to find a lot more room than you should be getting for this
little money, a very good buffet breakfast, free Wifi and
even coffee and tea in your room. A bargain, quite frankly.
QMinsko 14, tel. (+370) 5 203 22 82, fax (+370) 5 203
22 81, vilnius@campanile.com, www.campanile.com.
92 rooms (€39 - 56). PHAR6ULKW hh
CORNER HOTEL
An excellent budget choice close to Old Town at the top
of the hill, this clean and modern option provides a range
of simple en suite rooms for between one and four guests,
free wireless internet and a better than average breakfast.
Corner Hotel is also worth considering if you’re coming
to stay for a while, offering serviced en suite rooms with
shared kitchen and laundry facilities. It’s also just around
the corner from Algirdo, a street boasting several good
restaurants.QG-5, T. Ševčenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5 210 23
61, fax (+370) 5 210 23 64, info@cornerhotel.lt, www.
cornerhotel.lt. 138 rooms (€44 - 83). HA6UW
hh
ECOTEL VILNIUS
Tucked away in a pleasant, quiet part of town just east of
the city’s emerging business district, Ecotel offers a choice
of sleek and comfortable rooms, all coming with telephone
and television, and including a range for non-smokers and
those with allergy problems. With conference facilities
and a whole host of other services (including ‘rooms for
tall guests’) this might be the lofty option you’re looking
for.QB-00, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00, fax (+370)
5 210 27 07, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel.lt. 166 rooms
(€58 - 81). JHAR6ULW hh+
MIKOTEL
The receptionists are cheerful and outgoing at this modern
hotel near the train station. Fortunately, unlike its dismal
surroundings the hotel’s interior is clean and bright with
the added touch of local artwork for sale on the walls. The
rooms are compact with showers only and comfortable
beds.QC-6, Pylimo 63, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 26, fax (+370)
5 260 96 27, reception@mikotel.lt, www.mikotelgroup.
com. 26 rooms (€55 - 98). JA6UW hh
BED & BREAKFAST
The Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms to
the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that the
two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United King-
dom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run hotel, in
Lithuania it’s more of an apartment kind of thing. Indeed,
most Lithuanian B&Bs are just that. Here it can also mean
any kind of hosted accommodation, whether being a room
in a family house to something similar in a building run by
professional staff. So, not really Bed & Breakfast as is so fa-
mous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in doubt, make sure to ask
plenty of questions before booking something you never
really wanted.
BERNARDINŲ B&B HOUSE
An excellent value little guesthouse, smack bang in the
middle of Old Town.QD-2, Bernardinų 5, tel. (+370) 5 261
51 34, fax (+370) 5 260 84 10, info@bernardinuhouse.
com, www.bernardinuhouse.com. 10 rooms (€35 - 79).
Breakfast not included. JA6LW
VILNIUS HOME BED&BREAKFAST
A new bed and breakfast and on first inspection a most
welcome one. Located in a little house in an Old Town
courtyard, its a clean and rather cosy kind of place with
a touch of colour in all of the rooms. You can pick from
various rooms: singles, doubles or dorms. There is a well-
equipped kitchen and bathrooms are immaculate. Excel-
lent value.QA-3, Pylimo 14b, tel. (+370) 656 050 36,
info@vilniushome.eu, www.vilniushome.eu. 7 rooms
(€13 - 90). JAW
GUESTHOUSES
DOWNTOWN FOREST
A big friendly manor house in Užupis full of big friendly
staff tucked away just off the street in a genuine forest
setting. The rooms are bright and modern, and there is
a variety of sizes, from dorms to private doubles, with a
lovely camping site outside in the right season. Free tea
and coffee, fresh croissants available every morning and
an honour bar for drinks. Not your average hostel, this is
a winner. No wonder all the travellers we have spoken
to love it.QX-4, Paupio 31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31 13, fax
(+370) 5 264 31 12, info@downtownforest.lt, www.
downtownforest.lt. 22 rooms (€7 - 58). AR6IW
LITINTERP GUEST HOUSE
A perfectly-located Old Town guest house which has
become something of a Vilnius legend. The Litinterp has
been offering good quality and outstanding value accom-
modation for more than two decades, and is something of
a favourite for old Vilnius hands when they return to the
city for a visit. The breakfast (which costs a little extra) is
a delivered-to-your-door treat, and there are kitchen fa-
cilities too: perfect for families. Airport pick-up and help
with car rental available. Often fully booked (it really is
that good and popular) reserve a room well ahead.QD-
2, Bernardinų 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 38 50/(+370) 689 985
17, fax (+370) 5 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.lt, www.
litinterp.com. 16 rooms (€20 - 52). Breakfast not in-
cluded. JAW
HOSTELS
DO RE MI VILNIUS HOSTEL
Small, clean, friendly and centrally located towards the
western end of Gedimino, Do Re Mi offers a total of just
six rooms of which four come with en suite facilities and
the remaining two the sharing of bathrooms, both for
an excellent price. Other hostel-type amenities include
laundry and free wireless internet. If you’re coming in and
out of town by air and want a cheap place to stay with all
the major sights within easy walking distance, this place
should be high up on your list of options.QG-3/4, Aukų 3,
tel. (+370) 609 274 64, info@doremihostel.com, www.
doremihostel.com. 6 rooms (€9 - 30). Breakfast not in-
cluded. JALW
FABRIKA HOSTEL & BAR
Smack bang in the city centre, this industrial-feel hostel
features a range of rooms from dormitories to more pri-
vate spaces, all with shared bathrooms. There’s free wire-
less internet throughout plus a common room and a place
to get your washing done. Bicycle rental is also available,
and it also doubles as an interesting art gallery.QA-1, A.
Vienuolio 4, tel. (+370) 5 203 10 05, mail@Fabrikahostel.
com, www.fabrikahostel.com. 10 rooms (€8 - 30).
Breakfast unavailable. JHAR6W
FILARETAI
A back-to-basics hostel in the quirky Užupis district, ac-
commodation comes in the usual dormitory style or, as
is increasingly popular in hostels these days, with twin
rooms for more privacy. Bathroom and kitchen facilities
are shared, there’s also laundry facilities, plus, unlike some,
there’s no annoying curfew.QJ-4, Filaretų 17, tel. (+370) 5
215 46 27, info@flaretaihostel.lt, www.flaretaihostel.lt.
20 rooms (€9 - 20). Breakfast not included. HA
FORTUNA HOSTEL
From the same people as Old Town Hostel, Fortuna is located
just south of Old Town close to the bus and train stations.
Featuring lots of exposed stonework alongside modern con-
veniences, rooms come in range of choices from the usual
dorms to twins. Everyone speaks English, plus there’s a good
kitchen and even a place to park a car.QD-6, Liepkalnio
2, tel. (+370) 656 222 91, info@fortunahostel.lt, www.
fortunahostel.lt. 14 rooms (€7 - 46). Breakfast not avail-
able. JA6LW
JAMAIKA
It’s a well-priced hostel on the edge of the Old Town that
has an enormous Bob Marley mural painted on the (green)
78 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 79 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Mail & Phones Where to stay
POSTAL RATES
Lithuania EU Outside EU
Letter (44g) €0.48 €0.85 €0.97
Postcard (20g) €0.45 €0.71 €0.84
CD (130g) € 0.72 €1.71 €3.40
EXPRESS MAIL RATES
Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a
maximum of 500g.
London Paris New York
DHL €49.23 €49.23 €69.50
TNT €47.20 €52.42 €76.75
UPS €40.84 €55.60 €80.80
LAPTOP LOGIN
Wireless Free wireless internet in the centre of Vilnius
has more or less reached saturation point, with scores
of hotels, restaurants, bars and even shopping centres
providing fast connection speeds at no cost. If you can’t
find a free connection, the national Zebra network of-
fers a range of paid services including a handy option for
browsing over a 24 hour period for just €1.45, which is
available via SMS to anyone with a local mobile number.
3G/4G Bitė (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel (www.omnitel.
lt) provide 3G services for laptop connection to the in-
ternet allegedly wherever you are within Lithuania. Far
from perfect, if you’re prepared for slightly slower speeds
than broadband and the occasional loss of signal then
one of these services might me just for you. The above-
mentioned mobile operators also offer the so-called pre-
4G services, although the only true 4G service is provided
by Mezon (www.mezon.lt), which can be ordered with
the help of a local for a period of two weeks for just €8.40.
kitchen wall. Do you need any more reason to come and
stay here? Well, try spacious, immaculately clean rooms
(even the dorms), plenty of colour and a crowd as mixed
and friendly as you will find anywhere. You can’t miss
this place: just look for the Jamaican flag above the door.
QC-5, Visų Šventųjų 9, tel. (+370) 688 767 66, info@
vilniushostel.eu, www.vilniushostel.eu. 15 rooms (€10
- 60). JHAW
OLD TOWN HOSTEL
Not strictly in the Old Town (but no more than a five
minute walk way) this hostel packs a serious punch for
the paltry amount of money it costs to stay here, offering
more than a few extras alongside your rather basic dorm
room bed. As clean as a whistle, there’s free Wifi through-
out, a fully-equipped kitchen, free lockers and the staff are
genuinely multi-lingual. There are even a couple of rooms
with en-suite bathrooms if you stump some extra cash.
No breakfast though, unless you cook your own.QC/D-6,
Aušros Vartų 20-15, tel. (+370) 5 262 53 57, fax (+370) 5
268 59 67, oldtownhostel@lha.lt, www.oldtownhostel.
lt. 5 rooms (€8 - 14, €26 - 46). Breakfast unavailable.
JRW
POGO HOSTEL
From the same people behind one of the best bars in Lith-
uania comes this new hostel, located in one of the best lo-
cations in the city, clean, simple, fun and amazingly good
value for money. Rooms range from extremely affordable
singles through to dorms that sleep up to 10 and the peo-
ple who run it are very friendly. An exceptionally good op-
tion for anyone looking to meet like-minded people with
a youthful outlook and a taste for good beer.QC/D-2, B.
Radvilaitės 3-1, tel. (+370) 670 795 91, hostel@pogo.lt,
www.pogohostel.lt. 6 rooms (€8 - 26). Breakfast not
included. JAW
SHORT TERM RENTAL
BARBACAN APARTMENTS
A range of extremely high quality two- and three-room
apartments in a quiet location and a lovely old building in
Old Town. Facilities include underground parking, satellite
television, internet, fully equipped kitchens and everything
else necessary for a luxurious stay. Apartments are avail-
able to rent for both long and short stays.QD-4, Bokšto
19/12, tel. (+370) 615 126 88, info@barbacan.lt, www.
aparthotel.lt. (€60 - 120). PTJA6ULXW
EUGENIJUS APARTMENTS
A choice of two decent, good value apartments in Old
Town, located at street level for easy access and coming
with everything required for a self-catering stay. Close to
the main sights, the apartments are managed by a local
husband and wife who run a small ceramics workshop
and gallery in the city. Other services include car and bi-
cycle rental, guided tours and translation services.QA-2,
Vilniaus 25-1, tel. (+370) 699 424 56, eugenijp@takas.lt,
www.vilniusapartments.lt. (€30 - 40). JL
RENTIDA APARTMENTS
Modern and classy apartments with all the trimmings on
a fabulous Old Town street close to the oldest church in
the city. Peaceful, and with some great views out of the
windows, facilities include wireless internet and cable
television.QB-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 682 281 42,
gvidas@rentida.lt, www.rentida.lt. 16 rooms (€44 - 75).
TJW
STASYS APARTMENTS
A choice of several apartments to suit every taste and bud-
get, centrally located, and featuring everything necessary
for a pleasant, self-catering stay. Satellite television in every
apartment.Qtel. (+370) 699 326 72, stasys@apartment-
vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com. (€35 - 85). W
POST
CENTRAL POST OFFICE (CENTRINIS PAŠTAS)
Built in 1886 the Vilnius central post office is a fine example
of neo-renaissance architecture. Redesigned in 1965 the
facade nevertheless retains its original, classical elements
and is something of a gem. Inside you can get just about
everything done you’d expect of a post office, and plenty
more besides, including buying souvenirs and bus tick-
ets. Look out for commemorative stamps and various
philatelic material on sale. Late night post offices operate
in two of the city’s large shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Ak-
ropolis), open 10:00 - 22:00, and Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama),
open 08:00 - 22:00.QB-1, Gedimino 7, tel. (+370) 700 554
00, www.post.lt. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. J
TELEPHONES
TEO The people to call if you want a new telephone line.
QUkmergės 223, tel. 1817, www.teo.lt. Open 09:00 -
19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Also at Savanorių
18.
MOBILE PHONES
BITĖQF-5, Žemaitės 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30/1501,
www.bite.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Also at Sodų 22 (Bus Station), Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP),
Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama). A
OMNITELQB-1, Gedimino 12, tel. 1533, www.omnitel.
lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also
at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Žirmūnų 2 (IKI Commercial
Centre). J
TELE2QB-6, Sodų 22 (Bus Station), tel. (+370) 600 535
11, www.tele2.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima).
ISPS
ZEBRAQtel. 1817, www.teo.lt.
PREPAID SIM CARDS
Card Price (€) Local (€) London (€/min) Top-up (€) SMS (€) Voicemail (€/call) Coverage
Bitė (Labas) 1.74 0.16 0.84 From 1.45 0.03 0.14 99%
Omnitel (Ežys) 1.01 0.06 0.23 From 1.45 0.03 Free 99%
TELE2 (Pildyk) 1.45 0.14 0.53 From 1.45 0.03 0.04 96%
LONG TERM RENTAL
Note that many of these places are also available for
short-term rental - check the prices at the end of the
reviews.
STIKLIŲ DVARAS (STIKLIAI APARTMENTS)
Luxuriously furnished apartments inside a 16th- and
17th-century building available for both short- and
long-term rental. Tastefully decorated and located
in the same building as the Relais & Chateaux Stikliai
hotel, apartments come fully equipped with lounge,
kitchen, bathroom, one or two bedrooms plus satellite
television and internet access. There’s underground
parking too, plus guests/residents have access to the
adjoining hotel’s fitness centre and swimming pool.
QB-3, Dominikonų 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95,
fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, apartments@stikliaihotel.
lt, www.stikliai.com. 10 rooms (€2000 - 3800).
PTJHARFLKDXC
View of Gedimino prospektas from the cathedral belfry (see p.57)
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One of many gorgeous Vilnius courtyards
80 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 81 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Shopping Shopping
AMBER
An astounding Aladdin’s
cave of amber. The walls
and ceiling are plastered
with glowing chips of the
stuff while display cabi-
nets are full of jewellery, sculptures and more. Worth
visiting even if you’re not interested in shopping.
QC-5, Aušros Vartų 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 88, www.
ambergift.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00 (May 1 - August 31). Open 10:00
- 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00 (Septem-
ber 1 - 30). Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun (October
1 - April 30). PJA
Shopping in Vilnius is fun and, in the case of certain
products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, cigarettes and
amber), a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the West. The
main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided neatly
into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber, books
old and new and some nice pieces of art) and parts of
the city’s classiest street, Gedimino (designer clothes,
mobile phones and more books). The city’s markets are
also well worth a visit for an authentic, blast to the past
experience if nothing else, as indeed are the increasing
number of large shopping centres around the edge of
the city, where among other things you’ll fnd all the
clothing and footwear shops we’ve chosen not to list
here.
SHOPPING CENTRES
AKROPOLIS
An enormous place full of just about every shop you can
possibly imagine, including more than a few you will not
find anywhere else in Lithuania. Besides the massive scope
for retail therapy there are plenty of non-shopping activi-
ties: you can try ice-skating, bowling, or even see a film at
the multi-screen cinema. There’s also a good range of res-
taurants, and even a casino. Bus No. 53 will get you there.
QG-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. Shops 10:00
- 22:00, Entertainment 10:00 - 23:00, Maxima Super-
market 08:00 - 23:00. PTAULKXW
GO9
Looking more fabulous than ever after a careful refit,
this shopping centre in the heart of the city is located in
a grand building which is worth a look even if you’re not
shopping. It dates from 1948 and was the sight of amongst
other things the first nightclub in Vilnius, as well as for
much of the Soviet period newspaper offices. Besides
the many shops there is free Wifi throughout and terrific
onsite dining.QB-1/2, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 659 946
39, www.go9.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
PJAUKW
IKI COMMERCIAL CENTRE
This three-floor shopping centre features a large Iki super-
market at ground level, a handful of average shops down-
stairs and up the escalators some fashion outlets, a shoe
shop, a Forest restaurant and, at the time of going to press,
a small kiosk selling ready-made sushi.QX-00, Žirmūnų 2,
tel. (+370) 5 272 19 61, www.iki.lt. Open 08:00 - 23:00.
Also at J. Jasinkio 16. PAUL
OZAS The large Ozas shopping centre offers more gar-
gantuan shopping and restaurant services to the city.
Find inside a veritable cavalcade of shops selling every-
thing from designer clothes to food. The large Prisma
supermarket stocks one of the most extensive ranges
of alcohol in Vilnius.QH-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01
50/1588, www.ozas.lt. Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Entertain-
ment 10:00 - 22:00, Prisma Supermarket 08:00 - 23:00.
PTAULKXW
PANORAMA
Loads of retail outlets, entertainment centres and restau-
rants close to the centre in Žvėrynas. Many high street
names, a top floor of restaurants, the country’s first elec-
tric go-carting centre and smoking rooms next to the
public toilets.QF/G-2, Saltoniškių 9, tel. (+370) 5 219 58
11, www.panorama.lt. Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Entertain-
ment 10:00 - 23:00, Rimi Hypermarket 08:00 - 23:00.
PTAULKXW
VCUP
First opened in 1974 this was just about the first modern
shopping centre to open in Vilnius, and after much reno-
vation is today one of the better places to shop in the Lith-
uanian capital. Loads of stores, as well as plenty of eating
and drinking options.QA-00, Konstitucijos 16, tel. (+370)
5 273 15 15, www.vcup.lt. Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Maxima
Supermarket 08:00 - 22:00. PAULW
AMBER
According to local legend, amber (gintaras) originates from
the tears of the sea goddess Jūratė and the stones from her
castle, which was destroyed by Perkūnas, the pagan god
of thunder, when he discovered her passionate love affair
with the mortal fisherman Kastytis. Scientists, not generally
being of the pagan faith, think different. Some 40 million
years ago or thereabouts the earth got warmer, causing an
increase in the secretion of resin in the pine forests in the
region. The streams of resin swept down rivers and into the
Baltic Sea, sometimes sweeping up a stray bug along the
way. It’s this fossilised resin that now sits in deltaic deposits
off the coasts of Kaliningrad, Lithuania, Poland and Sweden.
Ask most people and they’ll tell you amber is a dark honey
colour. However, visit anywhere selling the stuff and you’ll
soon see it comes in such diverse colours as blue, black,
white and yellow. White amber is called royal amber and
is widely available in Lithuania. Blue and black amber are
more rare here.
BEATA AMBER
As much a wholesaler as retailer, you can pick up amber
at a variety of stages of production here. There are hunks
of raw amber, various polished beads and blobs that you
can use to make your own jewellery and fine finished cre-
ations.QC-3/4, Stiklių 9/10, tel. (+370) 5 272 37 65, www.
beataamber.lt. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Also
at M. K. Čiurlionio 84 (Crowne Plaza Vilnius), Konstitucijos
20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva), Antakalnio 60. JA
ANTIQUES
Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old, some
degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be required to
get antiques out of the country. A reputable antiques sales-
person will assist you with this. If they can’t, you might like
to think again about making the purchase.
E.K.ART
An incredible collection of paintings, furniture, religious
objects and other works of art from Lithuania, Russia, Ger-
many and beyond established over two decades ago and
one of the most reliable places in town to buy antiques. An
excellent place to know about for all serious collectors, the
shop now also stocks a range of antique Persian carpets.
QC-4, Didžioji 27, tel. (+370) 605 222 22, info@ek-art.
lt, www.ek-art.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
BOOKS ETC.
AKADEMINĖ KNYGA
A wide range of works for lexicographers, plus the usual
dictionaries, reference books and paperback novels. One
of the better places in town for foreign literature, which
you’ll find in the back room downstairs.QC-3, Universite-
to 4, tel. (+370) 5 266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
DIDYSIS PEGASAS
Extended during the summer this is now easily the biggest
bookshop in the Baltics. And it’s a proper bookshop too,
with sofas, armchairs and scatter cushions for reading on,
as well as stationery and toys. You’ll do well not to spend
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
AMBER MUSEUM-GALLERY
A great little place apt at dis-
playing amber at its best. The
knowledgeable and friendly
staff speak English, and can
waffle on for hours about the
stuff if you want to know all
about it.QC-3, Šv. Mykolo
8, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 92,
www.ambergallery.lt. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 -
18:00. Also at Šv. Mykolo 12.
JA
82 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 83 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Shopping Shopping
an entire afternoon (and loads of money) here.QG-1, Ozo
25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5 238 77 52, www.pegasas.lt.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
DRAUGYSTĖ
This former largish bookshop recently removed half its
stock and replaced it with a café operated by the best café
chain in the country. The English-language novels can still
be counted on one hand, but now there’s a reason to visit.
Also find a decent selection of books about Lithuania in
English.QB-2, Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 80, www.
vaga.lt. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also
at Gedimino 9, Pilies 22. JAW
HUMANITAS
Glossy books about art, architecture, interior design, shoes
and Jamie Oliver. Also travel guides and atlases.QB-3,
Dominikonų 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53, www.humanitas.lt.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
MINT VINETU
Hooray for the lovely people who opened this very welcome
second-hand bookshop with small attached café in Old
Town. The choice of books, including titles in English, may be
small but it’s the best anybody’s managed to do so far. Rec-
ommended.QB-3, Šv. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370) 618 203 47,
www.mintvinetu.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00. JAW
ROTAS
One would imagine that in an increasingly international city
the choice of books in languages other than Lithuanian would
also be growing, a fact that the last couple of years has shown
in Vilnius to be anything but the truth. It’s therefore always a
pleasant surprise to discover a bookshop that stocks foreign
language books, of which Rotas stocks more than the current
standard offering that takes less than 30 seconds to browse
before leaving empty handed. The selection of novels here
may not be breathtaking but the range of modern and clas-
sic fiction should be enough to keep any English speaker who
needs something to read at least partially happy. In a truly lo-
cal style the owners have decided to make individual entrance
and exit doors for the place, which if you don’t speak Lithu-
anian can be confusing. In short, enter through the door on
the left and exit to the far right of the shop in the small space
where you also pay for your purchases.QB-5, Pylimo 42, tel.
(+370) 5 212 47 60, www.rotas.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
VAGA
An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few English
books upstairs.QG-3, Gedimino 50, tel. (+370) 5 249 83
92, www.vaga.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Also at Konstitucijos 7a, Gedimino 2, Gedi-
mino 9, Pilies 22. A
COMPUTERS
IDEAL SOLUTION
The best place in town for Apple products, from laptops
to iPods.QG-1, Ozo 25, tel. (+370) 606 187 99, www.
idealsolution.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
THE NOTEBOOK SHOP
A fine selection of PC laptops plus spare parts, peripheries,
service and software.QI-1, S. Žukausko 17, tel. (+370) 5
274 15 28, www.nshop.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun. A
FOOD & DRINK
BIOSALA
A good selection of mostly organic food in tins and pack-
ets plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing
powder etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you
enter.QB-4, Vokiečių 13, tel. (+370) 610 653 40, www.
biosala.lt. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). JA
EASTANBUL
This predominantly Turkish food shop is the only thing of
its kind in the city. Find the shelves bulging with an ever-
increasing collection of things to eat including hummus,
chalva (halva), several kinds of ajvar, Turkish yoghurt, herbs
and spices, the fabulous rarity that’s haloumi and much
more besides.QH-3, Kalvarijų 24a (Ibrahim), tel. (+370)
5 273 17 38, www.eastanbul.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A
IKI
Lithuania’s first supermarket chain, and still sticking to
their core values of quality and freshness. Notable for
having top-notch in-house bakeries in the bigger stores.
QG-4, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 37, www.iki.
lt. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Also at Mindaugo 25, Žirmūnų 2,
Sodų 22. AL
IKI EXPRESS
Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with edible
treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked
goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of gro-
ceries.QB-2, Gedimino 16, www.iki.lt. Open 07:00 -
23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Užupio 7/1, Pylimo
21, Vokiečių 13, Gedimino 28. JA
LIVINN
A fine selection of mostly food products, including a range
of goods from the UK-based Infinity Foods. Among the se-
lection are Fair Trade organic basmati rice, organic peanut
butter and large tins of ghee.QA-2, Vilniaus 15, tel. (+370)
659 036 63, www.livinn.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at Saltoniškių 9 (Panorama), Ozo
25 (Akropolis), Žirmūnų 64 (Rimi Hypermarket), Mind-
augo 11 (Maxima), Ukmergės 369 (BIG). JA
MARCHÉ DE PROVENCE BOUTIQUE
Inside the building that houses the restaurant of the same
name, Marche de Provence Boutique specialises in fresh
and gourmet food and drink from Lithuania and further
afield. A good place to pick up a few unusual bits and piec-
es for the kitchen, it also sells bread freshly baked on the
premises.QC-3, Pilies 25a, tel. (+370) 615 999 09, www.
marche-boutique.blogspot.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. JA
RŪTA
Established in Šiauliai in 1913 and still based in the city,
support your local confectioner and buy some of their
treats as a gift or for the simple pleasure of stuffing them
in your face. Everything from chocolate bars to caramel to
truffles.QA-1, A. Jakšto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 68, www.
saldumynai.lt. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Also at Klaipėdos 1. JA
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FLOWERS & PLANTS
FLOWER MARKET (GĖLIŲ TURGUS)
Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at
Reformatų, which was a firewood market before that
and even further back served as a cemetery for the
church across the street. After the erection of the 1983
Monument to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the mar-
ket was moved to its current location. Notable as be-
ing the only 24-hour market in the city, this is the place
to come for individual flowers, wreaths and bouquets.
QG-4, J. Basanavičiaus 42. Open 24hrs. J
GĖLĖS IR MANUFAKTŪRA
A good selection of flowers and plants for the home
and/or special occasions.QB-5, Rūdninkų 11/11, tel.
(+370) 5 261 51 61, www.sododizainas.lt. Open
07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at
Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), Savanorių 16 (Rimi Hyper-
market), Žirmūnų 64, Kareivių 11a. JA
MARKETS
Shopping in a Lithuanian market (turgus), although per-
haps not for the faint hearted, is an experience to be sa-
voured if at all possible when visiting the country. Remem-
ber that many things can be haggled down in price, and
please watch your wallets, especially during the weekends.
COLLECTORS’ CLUB (KOLEKCININKŲ KLUBAS)
What started out as a small gathering of like-minded afi-
cionados trading miscellaneous antiquities in exchange
for a bit of pocket money has slowly evolved into a se-
rious weekly event. Stretched out round two full sides
(three on a good day) of the Trade Union Palace as well
as more stalls selling mostly old coins inside the build-
ing, items up for grabs include everything from Czecho-
slovakian clarinets to furniture to WWII-era Nazi pro-
paganda posters in Lithuanian. QG-4, V. M. Putino 5,
www.vilniusclub.lt. Open 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. J
HALĖS MARKET (HALĖS TURGUS) The modern,
glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing that went
out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and raw meat at
the back is perhaps best worth avoiding, whereas the
beautifully restored brick building dating from 1900 to
the right is more than worth a look inside. A trip through
the doors rewards visitors with a nasal blast of several
tonnes of smoked meat, which can be bought in here
along with a few other specialities including fresh fruit
and vegetables.QC-5, Pylimo 58, tel. (+370) 5 262 55 36,
www.halesturgaviete.lt. Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sun 07:00
- 15:00. Closed Mon. J
KALVARIJŲ MARKET (KALVARIJŲ TURGUS)
Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic
bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat
(cash only), one of the city’s most endangered species
is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a taste
of what the rest of the country’s really like. One of the
best places in town for meat, locally-produced honey
and cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also find trop-
ical fish, Minsk bicycles and cheap cigarettes from the
Roma girls near the main entrance.QH-2, Kalvarijų
61, tel. (+370) 696 357 18, www.kalvariju-turgus.lt.
Open 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
TYMO TURGUS Labouring under the unofficial moni-
ker The Little Good Food & Culture Festival, this once-a-
week jaunt into the world of possible alternatives churns
out all manner of environmentally friendly food from lo-
cal farmers and well as soaps, cosmetics and the like. Po-
litically edgy in the fluffiest sense, the market also hosts
a regular event where people can vent their spleens a
la Hyde Park Corner.QD-4, Aukštaičių/Maironio, tel.
(+370) 611 373 74. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 -
12:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun. J
View of the cathedral belfry from Gedimino prospektas
84 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 85 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Shopping Shopping
SENAMIESČIO KRAUTUVĖ
An interesting idea that takes the old-fashioned deli idea
of fresh products laid out in baskets sold by friendly, rosy-
cheeked people and transforms it into a total Lithuanian
experience. All the food for sale is local, including fruit, veg-
etables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes and drinks. During
the summer months the shop turns into a bit of a café, with
chairs and tables in the street.QC-3, Literatų 5, tel. (+370) 5
231 28 36. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
UŽUPIO KRAUTUVĖ
An early contender for the prize title in the city’s delicates-
sen sweepstakes, the lovely Užupio Krautuvė offers a fine
selection of Mediterranean gourmet food including olive
oil, meat, cheese, a small selection of wine, foie gras and
other welcome treats.QI-4, Užupio 23, tel. (+370) 686
793 50, www.uzupiokrautuve.lt. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
AUKSO AVIS
Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian
culture through a modern context.QC-3, Pilies 38, tel.
(+370) 5 261 04 21. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 17:00. JA
LINEN & AMBER STUDIO
One of the best places to buy linen and amber. They have
a great selection, and the girls who work here are really
helpful.QC-4, Stiklių 3, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 13, www.
lgstudija.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also
at Didžioji 10, Didžioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 10. JA
SAULUVA
A great choice for souvenir and holiday shopping featur-
ing a very respectable collection of amber jewellery plus
Lithuanian made handicrafts mostly made of wood and
glass.QC-3, Pilies 21/12, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 30, www.
sauluva.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at Literatų 3. JA
STIKLO PASLAPTIS (WORLD OF GLASS)
An intriguing selection of decorative and functional Lithu-
anian glassware. The people who run this place also offer
glass-blowing workshops.QC-3/4, Didžioji 38, tel. (+370)
655 815 75, www.stiklopaslaptis.lt. Open 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
JEWELLERY
FREYWILLE
Freywille’s fabulous boutiques are found in the most ex-
clusive locations around the world, a list which now in-
cludes Vilnius. Expect to find only the finest jewellery and
accessories here, and there is a good selection for both
men and women. We are big fans of the pens: very special
indeed.QC-4, Didžioji 15, tel. (+370) 5 240 40 58, www.
freywille.com. Open 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00. PJAW
YURGA
A superb range of jewellery for both men and women,
all of it hand-crafted and made by a talented local de-
signer in a range of materials. Yurga also makes one-off
pieces to order including engagement and wedding
rings as well as a handsome selection of corporate gifts.
Buy from one of their experts in the shop or directly from
their website.QB-3, Trakų 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56,
www.yurga.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
LINEN
LINEN TALES
Beautifully designed and crafted linen for bedrooms,
bathrooms, kitchens and much more besides, all made
by Lithuanians to the highest possible standards. An
excellent option for those living in Lithuania looking
for something unique for their homes as well as visitors
looking for some outstanding gifts and souvenirs.QC-4,
Stiklių 4, tel. +370 626 689 61, info@linentales.com,
www.linentales.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00. JA
LINO NAMAI
Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for just
about any part of the body or home. One of the city’s
top shops.QC-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22,
www.siulas.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12.
JA
PHOTOGRAPHY
FOTOTECHNIKA
Although this is arguably the best photography shop in
Vilnius if not the country, don’t go getting too excited.
Although they stock an impressive range (for local stan-
dards) of cameras, accessories, film stock, lighting, paper
and chemicals alongside such hard-to-find things as
cable releases, the selection remains rather small. The
good news is that if they don’t stock it they can order it
fairly quickly.QG-5, Smolensko 10a, tel. (+370) 5 279 15
45, www.fototechnika.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
VILBRA FOTO
The best choice of dSLRs and digital compact cameras
for the serious enthusiast in the city. Also, tripods, flash-
guns, lenses etc.QG-5, Švitrigailos 11b, tel. (+370) 5 239
41 30, www.vilbrafoto.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun. A
VILNIAUS ANTIKVARO CENTRAS FOTOPREKIŲ
SKYRIUS Tucked away to the right of the main antiques
shop is a man behind a desk selling a beautiful selection
of old film cameras and other related equipment includ-
ing Leicas and some Soviet classics. Worth a peep at least.
QC-3, Dominikonų 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 64 76. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
RECORDED MUSIC
IMUZIKA
Lithuania’s biggest label and one hip shop presenting
jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music. Orders ac-
cepted.QH-3, A. Goštauto 3/24, tel. (+370) 615 940 01,
www.imuzika.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
RŪDNINKŲ KNYGYNAS
A rather cute little shop on the very edge of Old Town, as
well as a good selection of 12inch records from home and
abroad find a fine range of English language magazines
on the subject of design, photography etc. Also available
are a few eco and handmade souvenirs.QB-5, Rūdninkų
20, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 66, info@rudninkuknygynas.
lt, www.rudninkuknygynas.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA
THELONIOUS
A superb choice of second-hand CDs and vinyl, mostly jazz
but also a few other gems you won’t find in a mainstream
music shop. They also sell a range of old-fashioned hi-fi
equipment for those who don’t know their iPods from
their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious now or-
ganise the occasional jazz concert. See the website for
more information.QC-3, Stiklių 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10
76, www.thelonious.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Sun. J
SPECIALITY SHOPS
BITINĖLIS
A glorious little shop selling a range of locally-produced
honey plus everything you ever needed to start producing
the stuff yourself.QB-6, Šopeno 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233
05 70, www.bitinelis.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 -
16:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
BOUTIQUE OF VARIOUS THINGS (VISOKIŲ
DAIKTŲ KRAUTUVĖLĖ) A delightfully Užupisesque
experience, this smart little shop accessed via a door down
an alleyway specialises in miniature steam engines, musi-
cal boxes, animated tin toys, other fun things and a whole
range of niche perfumes.QD-3, Užupio 20, tel. (+370) 5
210 52 17, www.vdk.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun. JA
DE’ ŽAVU
A small and rather natty boutique selling vintage clothing
and accessories as well as a small range of new fashion.
Find everything from old wedding dresses and sunglasses
to shoes to ties to mirrors.QB-3, Šv. Ignoto 3/1, tel. (+370)
663 590 00. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. JA
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
LITHUANIAN DESIGN BLOCK
Located in an area rapidly making a name for itself as the
place to come for expensive designer bits and pieces for
the home, Lithuanian Design Block is packed with good-
ies, from clothing to impossible-looking cardboard tables
to the latest swanky offerings from the Lomo people.
QG-5, Ševčenkos 16a, tel. (+370) 662 350 11, www.
hotelofthings.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun (September 1 - May 31). A
ONA
A multitude of things for the home, paintings, photo-
graphs, jewellery, paper cuts and a host of other similar
articles, all made by small-scale artists, designers and
producers in Lithuania. Promoting ecologically-friendly
products and worthy of much over-needed applause, if
that isn’t enough you can buy everything online and three
per cent of the money you spend goes to a charity of your
choice.QD-4, Šv. Kazimiero 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 63,
www.ona.lt. Open 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. J
SPORT & LEISURE
EXPEDITION
A good selection of sports equipment and a limited
range of clothing.QH-3, Šeimyniškių 5a, tel. (+370) 5
275 68 11, www.expedition.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at Pylimo 36 and J. Ku-
biliaus 18. JA
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86 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 87 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Lifestyle Directory Lifestyle Directory
FRANKO
Get a youthful sprucing-up in this
freshly renovated salon right on
Pilies. The bright-eyed, English-
speaking staff will make your hair
swell with style.QC-3, Pilies 23,
tel. (+370) 5 262 00 82, www.
grozionamai.lt. Open 09:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun. JA
SENAMIESČIO
GROŽIO SALONAS
The Old Town Beauty
Salon offers a superb
selection of procedures and services for the benefit of
both mind and body. Using a combination of natural,
high quality ingredients and highly trained professional
staff, among the other many things they provide are
waxing procedures, massage, hair care, manicure and a
lot more besides.QC-4, Rūdninkų 16, tel. (+370) 5 231
29 22/(+370) 652 224 49, info@senamiesciosalonas.
lt, www.senamiesciosalonas.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JW
BARBERS & BEAUTY
COMPUTER REPAIR
MATRIX Hard drive recovery et al.QG-5, Vytenio 10, tel.
(+370) 5 213 45 74, www.matrix.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
MEDICINOS BANKAS Capable of changing just about
any convertible currency.QB-6, Geležinkelio 6, tel.
(+370) 5 213 54 54, www.medbank.lt. Open 24hrs. J
RJ HAIR CULTURE
Go home with a completely differ-
ent hairdo to the one you came with
courtesy of this rather good beauty
salon. It’s worth noting that they’ve
worked abroad, so there is no lan-
guage barrier (not always the case
when trying ot get a haircut in this
town). If you want make-up done,
you will need to make an appoint-
ment in advance.QB/C-3, Dominikonų 16, tel. (+370)
640 540 00, www.rjhair.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
DRY CLEANERS &
LAUNDERETTES
JOGLĖ
The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services.QG-3,
J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Goštauto), tel. (+370) 5
264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at Gedimino 9 (GO9), Mind-
augo 11 (Maxima), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a
(Europa). A
GENEALOGY
INFORMATION BUREAU
Former journalist and six times European Ham Radio Op-
erator champion, Vilius Vaseikis provides a unique and fas-
cinating service arranging tours of Lithuania for people of
Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from helping to lo-
cate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is also the
man to speak to if you’re thinking of relocating to Lithuania
or are simply looking to rent an apartment.Qtel. (+370)
699 599 88, www.lithuaniavisits.com.
LITHUANIAN CENTRAL REGISTRY ARCHIVE (IS-
TORIJOS ARCHYVO SKYRIUS) The entire Lithuanian
civil registry archives from 1940 to the present day, includ-
ing records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to
use this service, location and approximate date are es-
sential.QG-3, K. Kalinausko 21, tel. (+370) 5 233 78 46,
www.archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
LITHUANIAN CENTRAL STATE ARCHIVE (LIETU-
VOS CENTRINIS VALSTYBĖS ARCHYVAS) When
the Nazis invaded Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to
prepare an extensive set of records of everyone living in
the country, proving that every cloud, no matter how dark
and evil it is, does indeed have a silver lining. Those look-
ing to trace people living in Lithuania during the period
of 1941-1942 should consult this archive.QO. Milašiaus 21,
tel. (+370) 5 247 78 11, www.archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 -
17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
LITHUANIAN STATE HISTORICAL ARCHIVES
(LIETUVOS VALSTYBĖS ISTORIJOS ARCHYVAS)
The same as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see
above), only these archives are from the church registry
up until 1940.QF-5, Gerosios Vilties 10, tel. (+370) 5 213
74 82, www.archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 -
15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
REGISTRY (GYVENTOJŲ REGISTRO TARNYBA)
If you have a name and need an address these people
will help you locate the person in question (the addi-
tion of a town helps speed things up no end), although
non-Lithuanians be warned that if the person in question
is located they are first asked if they actually want to be
‘found’ before the address is given. The sensible thing for
non-nationals to do is to use this service with a Lithuanian
intermediary.QG-4, A. Vivulskio 4a, tel. (+370) 5 271 77
88, www.gyvreg.lt. Open 07:30 - 17:00, Fri 07:30 - 15:15.
Closed Sat, Sun.
KEY CUT
RAKTINĖ
QD-2, B. Radvilaitės 7, tel. (+370) 698 334 13, www.
raktine.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Also at Pylimo 49. J
LANGUAGE COURSES
LANGUAGE AND CULTURE INSTITUTE LINGUA
LITUANICA (KALBOS IR KULTŪROS INSTITUTAS
LINGUA LITUANICA) Learn Lithuanian with courses
of varying length suitable for everyone from short-term
visitors to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week
summer and winter courses are also available and include
plenty of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are
competitive compared to courses offered by the universi-
ties.QA-1, Gedimino 26, tel. (+370) 5 231 32 39, www.
lingualit.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
ONLINE NEWS
LITHUANIA TRIBUNE
A recommended site featuring news about Lithuania on
subjects including politics, economics and international
relations. Information is gathered from other news sources,
academia and the political world and translated into Eng-
lish.Qtel. (+370) 614 312 15, editor@lithuaniatribune.
com, www.en.delf.lt.
NEWZ.LT
An independent news portal in English, bringing together
miscellaneous sources of news and current affairs and
serving them on one easily digestible page. Regularly up-
dated around the clock.Qinfo@newz.lt, www.newz.lt.
PHOTOGRAPHIC SERVICES
PROCENTRAS
The only truly pro shop in town can provide index prints
and rush all manner of film formats through in an hour if
you ask them nicely, although the usual turnaround is more
usually a day. Transparency films get done in batches, and
rather annoyingly can take up to a month to process. They
can also print and mount images and scan negatives up to
impressively large sizes. It’s just a shame they don’t open
during the weekends.QG-4, Savanorių 22, tel. (+370) 5
213 27 52, info@procentras.lt, www.procentras.lt. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
SHOE REPAIR
AVALYNĖS TAISYKLA
Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes.QB-4, Labdarių 1/22, tel.
(+370) 5 262 88 63. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
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Lifestyle Directory Lifestyle Directory
SPECIAL INTEREST GROUPS
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S ASSOCIATION OF
VILNIUS Vilnius’ long established International Women’s
Association welcomes women from all cultural back-
grounds living in the Lithuanian capital. As well as organ-
ising regular events including coffee mornings, member
social evenings and a book club, the association hosts a
number of charitable events, like Blossom of Hope, and the
International Christmas Charity Bazaar as well as many oth-
ers.Qiwavilnius@gmail.com, www.iwavilnius.com.
VETS & PETS
SENAMIESČIO VETERINARIJOS KLINIKA
House calls can be arranged.QB-2/3, Liejyklos 6, tel.
(+370) 699 612 65, www.veterinaras.lt. Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA
WELLNESS
AZIA SPA
A range of Eastern-style massages with a Buddhist phi-
losophy, plus spa treatments, body scrubs, aromatherapy
and more. Thai masseurs on hand for the ultimate authen-
tic experience. Special massages for couples also available.
QB-4, Šv. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 244 46 46, info@
aziaspa.lt, www.aziaspa.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA
BARBORA DREAM (BARBOROS SVAJOS)
It’s almost impossible to know where to begin describing
a place like this. A private spa which offers every kind of
wellness treatment you can imagine, from a number of
different kinds of sauna and steam baths to a wide range
of massages. And there’s more: a banquet hall offering the
perfect location for small private parties or for impress-
ing clients, as well as wine and whisky tasting events.
QD-2, B. Radvilaitės 7/2, tel. (+370) 656 511 11, info@
barboradream.lt, www.barboradream.lt. Open 24hrs.
JDW
EAST ISLAND EXOTIC
Spice up your life with a range of massages including
several delivered with the aid of stones, honey and even
chocolate. They also offer their all body massages along-
side a range of facials, body masks and scrubs.QC-4,
Didžioji 40/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 55 99, www.eastisland.lt.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. J
EXOTIC SPA MOROCCO
A wide range of massages and spa procedures, spa treat-
ment packages for couples and a few saucy options for
gentlemen, all inside an atmospheric Old Town cellar. See
the website for a full list of services.QB-4, Šv. Mikalo-
jaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 15, spa@exoticspa.lt, www.
exoticspa.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00. J
NIDOS KOPOS
Nida’s best massage comes to Vilnius, in a very central lo-
cation close to Cathedral Square. Offers a huge range of
massages and treatments, from a simple yet invigorating
30 minute back massage to an elaborate full body amber
massage and tea ceremony. They even offer massages for
children.QB-2, Odminių 8, tel. (+370) 610 303 33, info@
nidoskopos.lt, www.nidoskopos.lt. Open 12:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. JA
PROVANSO KVAPAI
Translating as Scents of Provence and located inside the
city’s Amberton Hotel, Provanso Kvapai features a shop
and two rooms specialising in a wide range of spa treat-
ments using natural, organic products. Among the many
things on offer are aromatherapy body massage, body
scrub using salt from the Dead Sea, mud wraps and a lot
more. Treatments are available for both men and women
and as well as one-off treatments they also provide a
wide range of treatment packages.QB-2, L. Stuokos-
Gucevičiaus 1 (Amberton Hotel), tel. (+370) 679 250 55,
www.provansokvapai.lt. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00
- 19:00. JAW
SPA CENTRE EAST ISLAND
One of the city’s largest spas, services here include aro-
matic bathtubs, a wide range of Thai massages, facials
etc. and a wealth of cosmetic procedures to make you feel
reborn. The centre comes complete with an Oriental ambi-
ence including representations of Buddha on the wall and
a tranquil Eastern soundtrack.QG-2/3, Konstitucijos 26
(Forum Palace 1st foor), tel. (+370) 5 272 22 27, www.
east-island.lt. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A
FITNESS & GYMS
FORUM SPORTS CLUB
Gym, aerobics, 25m pool, saunas, modern equipment
and the option of a personal trainer to shout at you
while you use it.QG-2/3, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370)
5 210 31 49, www.forumftness.lt. Open 06:30 -
22:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. AFDC
IMPULS PLUS
Strength and cardiovascular workout gear, aerobics,
sauna, spa, pool and waterslide.QI-1, Kareivių 14, tel.
(+370) 615 400 72, www.impuls.lt. Open 06:30 -
21:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Also at L. Asanavičiūtės
15, Savanorių 28, Fabijoniškių 97a, Ozo 41a. ADC
STIMULUS
Opened in 2009 and the first of its kind in the country,
Stimulus is an almost exclusively women-only venue
(exceptions are few and far between and males gener-
ally only ever visit on invitation) offering a wide range
of regimes, therapies, courses and other such things
aimed at achieving a strong and healthy body and
mind combined with inner balance for a harmoni-
ous lifestyle. Also at Aguonų 12.QB-00, Konstitucijos
6, tel. (+370) 607 435 55, info@stimulus.lt, www.
stimulus.lt. PJW
90 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 91 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Sport, Leisure & Health Sport, Leisure & Health
ACTIVE LEISURE
UNO PARKS
Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the
Neris river, Uno Parks offers over 1.5km of tracks up in the
trees aimed at everyone from children to beginners to
professional Tarzans. Each track comes with zip-lines for
aerial flights, plus there’s a 16m swing for the completely
insane and an aerial runway across the river. The place is
hidden from the road and there are no signposts at all. A
map on their website partially solves the mystery.QLiz-
deikos, tel. (+370) 602 323 66, www.unoparks.lt. Open
10:00 - 17:00.
ON WHEELS
PLYTINĖS KARTODROMAS
This go-cart track offers speed, mayhem, danger, so it’s
just like the rest of Lithuania’s road network, but with
smaller cars and more fun.QPlytinės 27, tel. (+370) 699
567 04, www.kartodromas.lt. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 20:00. A
RACQUET SPORTS
TENISO PASAULIS €10.14 - 31.86/hour depending on
when you want to play.QE-1, Ąžuolyno 7, tel. (+370) 655
040 50, www.sebarena.lt. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. A
TABLE TENNIS
SOSTINĖS STALO TENISO KLUBAS
A large, modern table tennis club complete with lots of
tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching or
just playing for pleasure.QI-1, Lakūnų 24, tel. (+370) 654
020 59, www.vilniaus-stalo-tenisas.lt. Open 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. P
WATER SPORTS
LIETUVOS VAIKŲ IR JAUNIMO CENTRAS
The pool is only 25m long but it’s clean as a whistle and,
despite being in a children’s and youth centre, it’s not just
for kiddies.QG-2, Konstitucijos 25, tel. (+370) 5 273 33
33, www.lvjc.lt. Open 06:00 - 13:55, 18:45 - 21:45, Sat
07:30 - 20:15, Sun 07:30 - 21:00. A
VICHY AQUA PARK
A big explosion of aquatic fun with a pleasantly up-lifting
Polynesian theme throughout. There are dizzying water
slides, a pretend beach with real waves, oodles of pools of
various types (one with a bar) and all sorts of saunas and
spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs, the taxi fare’s still
worth it, or take bus N°53 if you’re feeling cheap.QH-1, Ozo
14c, tel. 118, www.vandensparkas.lt. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. TAEKDC
WINTER SPORTS
AKROPOLIS ICE (AKROPOLIO LEDAS)
It’s skating in a shopping centre, and it’s cooler than it
sounds.QG-1, Ozo 25, tel. (+370) 659 919 74, www.
akropolis.lt. Open 08:30 - 23:00.
DENTISTS
A IR B MACKEVIČIŲ ODONTOLOGIJOS KLINIKA
A team of experienced dental professionals providing
an extensive range of dental services. As well as offering
quality, English-speaking services to resident foreigners,
they also specialise in dental procedures for Westerners at
considerably lower prices. Laser-whitening €300, implant
€580 - 730/tooth, prosthetic-CAM-DAM CEREC 3 system
€290 - 580, orthodontics for children and adults, treat-
ment with microscope and magnification lens.QB-2, L.
Stuokos-Gucevičiaus 9-9, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 12/(+370)
686 305 26, mackeviciai@mail.lt, www.dentaltravel.lt.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at
Nemenčinės 54a (Baltic-American Clinic), K. Dineikos 1,
Druskininkai (SPA Vilnius). JA
HIV & AIDS
TRANSMITTED DISEASES & AIDS CENTRE
(UŽKREČIAMŲJŲ LIGŲ IR AIDS CENTRAS)
QNugalėtojų 14d, tel. (+370) 5 230 01 25, fax (+370) 5
276 79 68, www.ulac.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 -
15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
HOSPITALS
VILNIUS UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL (RESPUBLIKINĖ
VILNIAUS UNIVERSITETINĖ LIGONINĖ) QŠiltnamių
29, tel. (+370) 5 216 90 69, www.rvul.lt. Open 24hrs.
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
MEDICINE GENERAL PRI-
VATE CLINICS Excellent Eng-
lish-speaking doctor for general
and family health located in the
city centre opposite the Cathe-
dral. High quality care.QB-2,
Gedimino 1a-19, tel. (+370) 684
331 00 (appointments). Open
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
MEDICAL SERVICES
BALTIC-AMERICAN CLINIC
Highly recommended modern professional health
care and diagnostics, now bigger and better than ever.
QNemenčinės 54a, tel. (+370) 5 234 20 20/(+370) 698
526 55, www.bak.lt. Open 24hrs. A
KARDIOLITA
Privately-run general hospital. Broad range of medical
services.QLaisvės 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 00, www.
kardiolita.lt. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
PHARMACIES
BENU QI-1, Žirmūnų 64, tel. (+370) 5 278 89 91, www.
benu.lt. Open 24hrs. A
92 Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2014 - April 2015 93 facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Business Directory Business Directory
All of the venues in this
guidebook marked with an
Old Town symbol (J) are
featured as such because even
if they’re not in Old Town per
se, they are at least on the
map on pp.94-95 which we
call Old Town. Confused?
Don’t be.
Aguonų A-4/6
A. Jakšto A-1
Alkūnės D-6
Arklių C-4/5
Arsenalo C/D-1
A. Smetonos A-1/2
A. Strazdelio D-5
A. Stulginskio A-2/1
Ašmenos B-4
Augustijonų C-4
Aukštaičių D-4
Aušros Vartų C-5/6
A. Volano D-3
Bazilijonų C/D-5
Beatričės A1
Benediktinių B-3
Bernardinų C-2/D-3
Bokšto C-3/D-5
B. Radvilaitės C/D-2
Didžioji C-3/4
Dominikonų B/C-3
Dysnos B-4
Etmonų C-4
Gaono C-3
Gedimino A-1/D-2
Geležinkelio C-6
Gėlių B-5
Islandijos A-2
Išganytojo C/D-3
J. Basanavičiaus A-3/4
J. Jablonskio A-5/6
J. Lelevelio A/B-1
Jogailos A-1/2
Karmelitų C-4/5
Kaštonų A1
Kauno A/B-6
Kėdainių A/B-4
K. Griniaus A-2
K. Kalinausko A-3
Klaipėdos A/B-3
Kruopų B-5
K. Sirvydo B-1
K. Škirpos D-1/2
Kūdrų D-4
K. Vanagėlio D-5
Labdarių B-2
Lapų C-5/6
Latako C/D-3
Liejyklos B-2/3
Liepkalnio D-6
Ligoninės B-4/5
Literatų C/D-3
Lydos B-4
L. Stuokos-Gucevičiaus
B/C-2
M. Antokolskio C-3/4
Maironio D-2/4
Malūnų D-3
M. Daukšos D-5
Mėsinių B-5/C-4
Mindaugo A-4/6
Naručio D-6
Naugarduko A-4/5
Odminių B-2
Palangos A-3
Pamėnkalnio A-2
Pasažo C-5
Paupio D-3
Pelesos C/D-6
Pilies C-2/3
Plačioji B-5
Pranciškonų B-3/4
Punsko A-6
Pylimo A-2/C-6
Radvilų B-1
Raugyklos A-6/B-5
Rožių A-3/2
Rusų C/D-3
Rūdninkų B-5/C-4
Savičiaus C-4
Seinų B/C-6
Sodų B-5/6
S. Skapo C-2
Stiklių C-3/4
Stoties B-6
Subačiaus C/D-5
Šaltinių A/B-5
Šermukšnių A1
Šiaulių B-4
Šiltadaržio D-2
Švarco C-3
Šventaragio C-2
Šv. Dvasios D-5
Šv. Ignoto B-3
Šv. Jono C-3
Šv. Kazimiero C/D-4
Šv. Mikalojaus B-4
Šv. Mykolo C/D-3
Šv. Stepono A-6/B-5
Teatro A-3
Tilto B-1/C-2
Totorių B-2/3
Trakų A-4/B-3
Turgelių D-6
T. Vrublevskio C-1
Universiteto C-2/3
Užupio D-3
Vienuolio A1
Vilniaus B-1/3
Vingrių A/B-4
Visų Šventųjų B/C-5
Vokiečių B-3/C-4
V. Šopeno B-6
Žemaitijos B-4
Žiupronių D-5
Ž. Liauksmino B-1/C-2
Žydų B-4/C-3
Žygimantų B/C-1
LEWBEN FINANCIAL SERVICES CENTER
Accounting services.QG-3, A. Tumėno 4, tel. (+370)
5 262 05 34, fax (+370) 5 262 05 35, info@lewben.com,
www.lewben.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. J
BUSINESS CONNECTIONS
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QG-3,
Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 612 669 00, info@amcham.
lt, www.amcham.lt.
ASSOCIATION OF LITHUANIAN CHAMBERS OF
COMMERCE, INDUSTRY & CRAFTS (LIETUVOS
PREKYBOS, PRAMONĖS IR AMATŲ RŪMŲ ASO-
CIACIJA) QG-3, Vašingtono 1-63a, tel. (+370) 5 261 21
02, info@chambers.lt, www.chambers.lt.
BRITISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE QC-3, Didžioji
5, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 62, info@bccl.lt, www.bccl.lt.
EUROPEAN BUSINESS NETWORK QP.O. Box 1125,
tel. (+370) 699 388 47, www.ebn.lt.
INVEST LITHUANIA (INVESTUOK LIETUVO-
JE) QA-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38, info@
investlithuania.com, www.investlithuania.com.
VILNIUS CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, INDUSTRY
& CRAFTS (VILNIAUS PREKYBOS, PRAMONĖS IR
AMATŲ RŪMAI) QG/H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 5 213
55 50, vilnius@cci.lt, www.cci.lt.
EUROPEAN COMMISSION
EUROPEAN COMMISSION (EUROPOS KOMISI-
JOS ATSTOVYBĖ LIETUVOJE) QB-1, Gedimino 16,
tel. (+370) 5 231 31 91, , ec.europa.eu/lietuva.
EUROPEAN COMMISSION INFORMATION CEN-
TRE (EUROPOS KOMISIJOS ATSTOVYBĖS LIETU-
VOJE INFORMACIJOS CENTRAS) QB-1, Gedi-
mino 16, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 83, comm-rep-lt-info@
ec.europa.eu, ec.europa.eu/lietuva.
FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS
ARMENIA QF-3, Lenktoji 17, tel. (+370) 5 207 50 40,
info@armeniaembassy.lt.
AUSTRALIA (CONSULATE) QA-2, Vilniaus 23, tel./fax
(+370) 5 212 33 69, australia@consulate.lt.
AUSTRIA QC-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80, wilna-
ob@bmeia.gv.at, www.bmeia.gv.at/wilna.
AZERBAIJAN QG-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 219 56
01, info@azembassy.lt, www.azembassy.lt.
BELARUS QG-4, Muitinės 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55,
lithuania.cons@mfa.gov.by, www.lithuania.mfa.gov.by.
BELGIUM QA-3, K. Kalinausko 2b, tel. (+370) 5 266 08
20, vilnius@diplobel.fed.be, www.diplomatie.be/vilnius.
CANADA QA-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50,
vilnius@canada.lt, www.canada.lt.
CHINA QH-5, Algirdo 36, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 62,
chinaemb_lt@mfa.gov.cn, www.chinaembassy.lt.
ČILĖ (CONSULATE) QA-1, A. Jakšto 11, tel. (+370) 5 260
89 19, rvizgirda@vizgirdos.com.
CZECH REPUBLIC QF-4, Birutės 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 10
54, vilnius@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mzv.cz/vilnius.
DENMARK QI-3, T. Kosciuškos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87
60, vnoamb@um.dk, www.ambvilnius.um.dk.
ESTONIA QF-3, A. Mickevičiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02
00, sekretar@estemb.lt, www.estemb.lt.
FINLAND QG-4, K. Kalinausko 24 (2nd foor), tel. (+370)
5 266 80 10, sanomat.vil@formin.f, www.fnland.lt.
FRANCE QC-3, Švarco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00, www.
ambafrance-lt.org.
GEORGIA QF-3, D. Poškos 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 78 48,
vilnius.emb@mfa.gov.ge, www.lithuania.mfa.gov.ge.
GERMANY QG-4, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 5 210 64
00, info@wilna.diplo.de, www.vilnius.diplo.de.
GREECE QC-4, Rūdninkų 2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26,
embassy@grembvil.w3.lt, www.mfa.gr/vilnius.
HUNGARY QA-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38,
mission.vno@mfa.gov.hu.
ICELAND (CONSULATE) QF-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel.
(+370) 5 215 05 75, vsankalas@hnit-baltic.lt.
IRELAND QC-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 60,
vilniusembassy@dfa.ie, www.embassyofreland.lt.
ITALY QG-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20,
ambasciata.vilnius@esteri.it, www.ambvilnius.esteri.it.
JAPAN QF-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04
62, consular@emb-japan.lt, www.lt.emb-japan.go.jp.
KAZAKHSTAN QF-3, Birutės 20a, tel. (+370) 5 212 21
23, kazemb@iti.lt, www.kazembassy.lt.
LATVIA QF-4, M. K. Čiurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12 60,
embassy.lithuania@mfa.gov.lv, www.latvia.lt.
MALTA (CONSULATE) QC-5, Subačiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5
251 44 91, maltaconsul.vilnius@gov.mt.
MOLDOVA QF-2, Miglos 61a, tel. (+370) 5 260 79 14,
vilnius@mfa.md, www.lituania.mfa.gov.md.
NETHERLANDS QI-3, T. Kosciuškos 36, tel. (+370) 5 211
36 00, vil@minbuza.nl, www.lithuania.nlembassy.org.
NORWAY QA-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd foor), tel. (+370)
5 261 00 00, emb.vilnius@mfa.no, www.norvegija.lt.
POLAND QJ-2, Smėlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 219 47 00,
wilno.amb.wk@msz.gov.pl, www.wilno.msz.gov.pl.
ROMANIA QG-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05 57,
ambromania@romania.lt, www.vilnius.mae.ro.
RUSSIA QF-3, Latvių 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 93,
post@rusemb.lt, www.lithuania.mid.ru.
SPAIN QG-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61, emb.
vilnius@maec.es.
SWEDEN QC-4, Didžioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10,
ambassaden.vilnius@gov.se, www.swedenabroad.com/
vilnius.
TURKEY QC-4, Didžioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 236 42 00,
embassy.vilnius@mfa.gov.tr, www.vilnius.emb.mfa.gov.tr.
UK QJ-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00, be-
vilnius@britain.lt, www.britain.lt.
UKRAINE QG-4, V. Kudirkos 22, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 82,
emb_lt@mfa.gov.ua, www.mfa.gov.ua/lithuania.
USA QG-4, Akmenų 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00,
webemailvilnius@state.gov, www.vilnius.usembassy.
gov.
VATICAN QI-3, T. Kosciuškos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 96,
nuntiusbalt@aiva.lt, www.vatican.va.
FREIGHT FORWARDING
DPD LIETUVA QD-6, Liepkalnio 180, tel. (+370) 5 210
67 50, info@dpd.lt, www.dpd.lt.
LEGAL & FINANCIAL SERVICES
SABALIAUSKAS IR PARTNERIAI QB-1, Ž. Li-
auksmino 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 44, info@siplaw.lt,
www.siplaw.lt.
INTERPRETERS
BALTICK LANGUAGE SERVICES QD-2, Bernardinų 9-4,
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 24, baltick@baltick.lt, www.baltick.lt.
LITHUANIAN OFFICIALS
DEPARTMENT OF CUSTOMS (MUITINĖS DEPAR-
TAMENTAS) QH-3, A. Jakšto 1/25, tel. (+370) 5 261 30
27, info@cust.lt, www.lrmuitine.lt.
MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS (LR UŽSIENIO
REIKALŲ MINISTERIJA) QG-3, J. Tumo-Vaižganto 2,
tel. (+370) 5 236 24 44, urm@urm.lt, www.urm.lt.
MUNICIPALITY (SAVIVALDYBĖ) QA-00, Konsti-
tucijos 3, tel. (+370) 5 211 20 00, e.vicemeras@vilnius.
lt, www.vilnius.lt.
PRESIDENT’S OFFICE (LR PREZIDENTO RŪMAI)
QC-2/3, S. Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 706 641 54, spauda@
prezidentas.lt, www.president.lt.
CONSUMER RIGHTS
EUROPEAN CONSUMER CENTRE (EUROPOS
VARTOTOJŲ CENTRAS) QB-2, Odminių 12, tel.
(+370) 5 265 03 68, www.ecc.lt.
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LITHUANIAN
ART
MUSEUM
Three Centuries of Fashion
Long-term exhibition from the collection of Alexandre Vassiliev (Paris)
MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS
(3A Arsenalo St., Vilnius)
Opening hours:
Tuesdays–Saturdays 11 am–6 pm, Sundays 11 pm–4 pm
Closes one hour earlier on the eve of national holidays
Closed on Mondays and national holidays
www.ldm.lt

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