Hopscotch the Frog

Amigurumi
Pattern and Photos by: Emmy Scanga

Thank you for downloading a copy of this

pattern. This pattern is intended for personal use.
All photos and text are subject to copyright ©
2023 Emmy Scanga. Please do not redistribute in
any form including text, videos or photos and
other translations. All Rights Reserved. Finished
items made from this pattern may be sold,
however a link to my Ravelry store or website
plus credit must be given. Happy Stitching!!

© Emmy Scanga UPDATED 07/15/2023- head, belly, body, legs, some assembly steps
Difficulty Abbreviations
US/American terms
Beginner
Comfortable with rows, increasing MC- Magic Circle
and decreasing, single crochet, half Ch- chain
double crochet, double crochet, and Sc- single crochet
picot stitches. Hdc- half double crochet
Dc- double crochet
Slst- slip stitch
Hook st/sts- stitch/stitches
Inc- increase (two single crochet
stitches in the next st unless noted ex:
3.25 mm dc inc- two double crochet in the
next stitch)
Yarn Dec- decrease (two single crochet
together)
Lion Brand Pound of Love Medium Sk- skip
(4) weight in Olive and in Antique P- picot (slst style outlined below)
White
Scrap of medium (4) weight in gold

Any yarn will work as long as hook

Special Stitches
size does not leave gaps in the
stitches. When in doubt, size Picot (slst style) Stitch:
down. Chain 3, skip the two chains
closest to the hook, slst in the
Supplies back bump of the third stitch.

● Yarn (I used one body color, one belly

color and a piece of scrap yarn for the
Gauge
eyes, but you can use any color combos
you like) Finished size is approximately 2.5
● Hook inches wide by 5 inches long by 1.5
● Darning needle inches thick. Gauge is not as
● Fiber Filling important as ensuring hook size is
● Stitch Markers small enough to prevent gaps
● 9 mm safety eyes between stitches.
● 28 gauge wire (optional)

© Emmy Scanga 2
 Pattern Notes:
All pieces are worked completely flat. There is no chain 1 turning
chain at the end of each row. You may need to adjust the first
stitch of each row to be slightly looser to make the last stitch of
the next row easier.

Head
--- Crochet flat in Rows in body color ---
Row 1 MC 7 sc, turn [7]
Row 2 Sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc, turn [9]
Row 3 Sc, hdc inc, 2 sc, 3 sc in next st, 2 sc, hdc inc, sc, turn [13]
Row 4 3 Sc, 2 dc, inc, sc, inc, 2 dc, 3 sc, turn [15]
--- Mark eyes placement between dc posts on completed Row 4---
Row 5 Slst, sk 2, slst, 7 sc, slst, sk 2, slst [11]

Fasten off; cut short tail as it won’t be used for sewing. Hide inside body.
For later during assembly mark sts 2, 6 & 10 on Row 5.

Body
--- Crochet flat in Rows in body color ---
Row 1 Attach to back of head, 9 sc, turn [9]
Row 2 Sc, sk 1, sc, dc inc, dc, dc inc, sc, sk 1, sc, turn [9]
--- Set stitch marker in first and last stitch of completed Row 2---
Row 3 Sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, sc, turn [11]
Row 4 Sc across, turn [11]
Row 5 Inc, 9 sc, inc, turn [13]
Row 6 thru Row 8 Sc across, turn [13]
Row 9 Sc, 2 dec, sc, 3 dc in next st, sc, 2 dec, sc, turn [11]
Row 10 Sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, sc turn [9]
3

© Emmy Scanga
 Body continued
--- Set stitch marker in first and last stitch of completed
Row 10---
Row 11 2 Dec, sc, 2 dec, turn [5]
Row 12 Dec, 3 dc in next st, dec, turn [5]
--- Set stitch marker in first and last stitch of completed
Row 12---
Row 13 Dec, sc, dec [3]

Fasten off; cut short tail as it won’t be used for sewing. Hide inside body.
For later during assembly mark rows on body piece: Row 2 for arms and
Rows 10-12 for legs.

Belly
--- Crochet flat in Rows in accent color ---
Row 1 Attach to last row of body: sc, inc, sc, turn [4]
Row 2 Sc across, turn [4]
Row 3 Inc across, turn [8]
Row 4 thru Row 7 Sc across, turn [8]
Row 8 Sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc, turn [6]
Row 9 Sc across, turn [6]
--- Set stitch marker in first and last stitch of completed Row 9---
Row 10 thru Row 12 Sc across, turn [6]
--- Set stitch marker in first and last stitch of completed Row 12---
Row 13 2 Sc, dec, 2 sc, turn [5]
Row 14 Dec, sc, dec, turn [3]
Row 15 Sc across [3]

Fasten off; cut short tail as it won’t be used for sewing. Hide inside body.
For later during assembly mark Rows 9 and 12. These will be guidelines for
sewing. 4
© Emmy Scanga
 Arms Make 2

--- Crochet flat in Rows in body color ---

Row 1 Attach 3 sc to Rnd 2 side of body- all three sc will be
in one spot, turn [3]
Row 2 thru Row 8 Sc across, turn [3]
Row 9 Sc, sk 1, sc, turn [2]
Row 10 In the first st= (sc, P, sc), P, in the second st= (sc, P,
sc, slst) [this will result in 4 sc with a picot in between
each sc- for a total of 3 picot, ending in a slst]

Fasten off. Cut tail long enough to fold sides together and sew down the
arm from wrist to body.

Legs Make 2

--- Crochet flat in Rows in body color ---

Row 1 Attach 3 sc to Rnd 10-12 side of body, turn [3]
Row 2 Inc across, turn [6]
Row 3 thru Row 7 Sc across, turn [6]
Row 8 3 dec, turn [3]
Row 9 Sc, inc, sc, turn [4]
Row 10 thru Row 13 Sc across, turn [4]
Row 14 2 Dec, turn [2]
Row 15 Sc across, turn [2]
Row 16 In first st= (Hdc, P, dc), P, in second st= (dc, P, hdc, slst) [this will
result in 2 hdc and 2 dc, with a picot in between each st- for a total of 3
picot, ending in a slst]
Fasten off. Cut tail long enough to sew down the leg from ankle to body.
5
© Emmy Scanga
 Before assembly:
Before Assembly you will want to add your eyes
and eye details.

EYES:
On Row 4 of the head-
using the stitches marked
in between the dc posts-
insert safety eyes here.
*NOTE; I suggest only
applying the washer
halfway so you have room
for eye details. Then, once
you are satisfied with eye
details , close and secure
washer.
EYE DETAILS:
Using a scrap of yarn
in any color you like,
embroider around the
safety eye any way you
like. I like to angle
mine towards the
nose in the inner
corner and lifted at
the outer corner.

NOTE:
You can also sew/embroider eyes if you do not
have safety eyes! I would embroider across
the marked stitches to create this look. Yarn
would go across the dc posts on Row 4 in
black yarn, then embroider color of choice
around the eye for the details.
6
© Emmy Scanga
 Wire Posing
Wire Inner Frame-
Adding a wire frame to your frog before
sewing can allow you to create a variety of
poses and character to your froggy friend.
I prefer to use 28 gauge wire (common
gauge for floral wire) so my frog friend still
has some flop while still holding shape.
I create an “X” shape with the wire and
twist- ensuring that the looped ends
reach ankles and wrists. To secure in
place, I wrap the sewing tail of the arm or
leg around the loop a few times before
sewing back to the body. I typically use a
mattress stitch or ladder stitch to sew
limbs closed.

Extra Detail ideas…

Surface Crochet-
You can use a disappearing ink pen to mark where to crochet. You can find a
link to a surface crochet tutorial on the last page.

Spots with paint-

Fabric markers, fabric paint, or acrylic paint (best to add textile medium, mix in
for best/most flexible results) can be used to paint details, designs and
highlights to your frog (not pictured).

Beads-
A fun way to add bumps and texture to a frog! I also suggest using a
disappearing ink pen to mark placement before sewing beads onto your frog.

Embroidery-
Stitching on french knots, simple running stitches, flowers, vines, and patterns
are a fun way to spice up your frog to add personality.
7
© Emmy Scanga
 Assembly
ARMS & LEGS- Fold in half and sew down the
limb. If you are adding wire, be sure to
sandwich that inside the limb as you sew to
the body. Tie off at the end and hide yarn
inside. No need to stuff the arms and legs. I
like to tie the initial tail of each limb where I
attached to the body with the tail of the
sewing yarn for extra security.
Be sure that Row 10 and 12 of the legs meet at
the end. I like to make a few passes between
these rows to keep them together.

BODY- Align the top of the belly (last row

crocheted) with the stitch markers on Row 5 of
the head (the 6th st… these should be the middle
stitch between the eyes). Row 9 of the belly
should be at the top of the arms. So Row 9 of
the belly should line up with Row 2 of the
body. Row 12 of the belly should line up with the
markers on each side of the eyes (these are the
2nd and 10th sts of Row 5 on the head).

I like to use one long piece of yarn in the body

color, gather the front loop of the three stitches
of the last row of the belly, center the yarn then
sew down each side of the face.

*TIP: you can use the back loop of the sc’s on the
last row of the head to create a smoother mouth
look. It isn’t necessary to create your cute friend,
but that is how I get my frog to have “lips”.

Once I have one side sewn in, lightly stuff and

sew the other side closed. Hide tails in the body.

8
© Emmy Scanga
 Follow the yarn… … to connect with me
Don’t forget to tag me or
use #embermischief so I
can see your creations!

Congrats!
You’ve created an adorable amigurumi!
I would love to see it on socials so be sure to tag me and use
the #embermischief or #frogmischief

If you want to find more patterns, be sure to click the fox

above for links to more ideas, behind the scenes photos,
videos, and exciting news!

Resources & Links Click to see a video

Half double crochet

Magic Circle video Decrease (invisible) video
Double crochet video
Single crochet video Bind off & Sew Closed
Triple crochet video
Slst video video
Front Post Single Crochet
Chain bump video Attaching Limbs
video
Surface Crochet Using Stitch Markers
Increase (sc) video

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© Emmy Scanga