1

Cosmetics & Toiletries

(shampoo)

Seyyed Sohrab
Rostamkalaei
Faculty of Pharmacy
2
 ‫چه فكر ميكني‬
‫جهان چو ابگينه شكسته ايست‬
‫كه سرو راست هم در او‬
‫شكسته مينمايدت‬
‫چنان نشسته كوه‬
‫در كمين اين غروب تنگ‬
‫كه راه بسته مينمايدت‬
‫زمان بيكرانه را تو با شمار گام عمر ما مسنج‬
‫به پاي او دمي است اين درنگ درد و رنج‬
‫بسان رود كه در نشيب دره سر به سنگ ميزند‬
‫رونده باش‬
‫اميد هيچ معجزي ز مرده نيست‬

‫زنده باش‬

‫‪3‬‬
‫‪ ‬هری معتقد است شامپو فرآورده ای از يک ماده فعال سطحی در يک شکل مايع مناسب‪،‬‬
‫يا پودر می باشد که هرگاه تحت شرايط خاص استفاده شود‪ ،‬مواد چرب سطحی‪ ،‬کثافات و‬
‫زوائد پوست را از ساقه ی مو و سطح پوست سر پاک می کند؛ بدون آن که اثر سوئی بر‬
‫مو‪ ،‬پوست سر يا سالمت فرد استفاده کننده داشته باشد‪ .‬تنها پاک نمودن سطحی مورد نياز‬
‫است تا سيمای مو حالت خوبی داشته باشد‪.‬‬
‫‪ ‬وال (‪ )wall‬بيان می کند که يک شامپوی خوب بايد مو را تميز کند و سطح پوست سر را‬
‫پاک نمايد‪ ،‬بدون آن که سبب آسيب و يا تحريک شود و نبايد تا حد زياد چربی های طبيعی‬
‫را از سطح پوست پاک نمايد‪.‬‬

‫‪4‬‬
Consideration

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6
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10
Shampoo

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 History
 The word shampoo in English usage dates back to
1762, with the meaning "to massage". The word
was a loan from Anglo-Indian shampoo, in turn
from Hindi chāmpo (च ाँ प), imperative of chāmpnā
(च ाँ पन ), "to smear, knead the muscles, massage".
It itself comes from Sanskrit/Hindi word
"champā" (चम्प ), the flowers of the plant
Michelia champaca which have traditionally been
used to make fragrant hair-oil.
12
 1. Liquid (clear) shampoo
 Clear and transparent
 More than 50%:

1. Easy lathering
2. Rapid lathering
3. Good rinsing

13
 1. Liquid (clear) shampoo
 Based on potassium soap or TEA soap
 Synthetic detergents
 Sequestering agents:
1. Polyphosphates
2. EDTA salts
 Sulfonated oil and paraffin
 Cleansing
 Cosmetic 14
1. Liquid (clear) shampoo

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 2. Lotion shampoo
 Near to 20-25%
 Conditioning
1. Lanoline
2. egg powder
3. Alkanolamine with high molecular
weight fatty acids (conditioning)

 Pearling agent
16
 Egg shampoo
 Egg :
1. Cleaning effect
2. Softening effect
3. Oily effect
4. Suspending effect (Albumen)
5. Yolk lecithin

 Dried egg
17
 3. Gel shampoo
 Consistency (electrolytes, natural gum,
cellulose derivatives)
 High level of detergent
 Packaging in jar and tube

18
 4. Cream paste shampoo
 Soaps (enriched from: glycerids, lanoline. Fatty
alcohols)
 insoluble soaps like sodium stearate
(thickening and opacifying)
 SLS paste
 Stability

19
 5. Oil shampoo
 Sulfunated oils
 Low lathering
 Two phase: (oil shampoo + normal shampoo)

20
 6. Powder shampoo
 SLS & MgLS
 Filler:
1. Sodium pirophosphate
2. Sodium bicarbonate

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 7. Aerosol (mousse) shampoo
 Liquid shampoo
 Dried shampoo
 packaging

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 8. Dry shampoo
 Dry
 Insoluble powder (rice starch)
 Rinsing by solvents

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 9. Medicated shampoo
 Anti dandruff:

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Dandruff

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 Dandruff
 Dandruff (also called scurf and
historically termed Pityriasis
capitis)

 is due to the excessive shedding

of dead skin cells from the scalp.

 As it is normal for skin cells to

die and flake off, a small amount
of flaking is normal and in fact
quite common.
26
 Dandruff
 Excessive flaking can also be a symptom of:
1. seborrhoeic dermatitis,

2. psoriasis,

3. fungal infection

4. or excoriation associated with infestation of

head lice.

27
 Cause
 Dandruff has been shown to be the result of
three required factors:
1. Skin oil commonly referred to as sebum or
sebaceous secretions

2. The metabolic by-products of skin micro-

organisms (most specifically Malassezia
yeasts)

3. Individual susceptibility
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 Cause
 Common older literature cites the fungus
Malassezia furfur (previously known as
Pityrosporum ovale) as the cause of dandruff.
 M. globosa
 M. restricta
 M. obtusa
 M. slooffiae
 M. sympodialis
 M. pachidermatis 29
 ‫‪ ‬تجزيه تری گليسريد ها و ايجاد پاسخ های التهابی‬
‫‪ ‬ايجاد شرايط مناسب رشد در اثر شوره و يا فعاليت بيش‬
‫از حد ميکروارگانيسم‬

‫‪30‬‬
‫عوامل داخلی و خارجی برای ايجاد شوره سر‬
‫‪ ‬داخلی‪:‬‬
‫عدم عملکرد سالم و صحيح پوست سر يا اعضای بدن‬ ‫‪.1‬‬
‫تغييرات در تعادل هورمونی‬ ‫‪.2‬‬
‫رژيم نامناسب غذايی‬ ‫‪.3‬‬
‫سوء تغذيه‬ ‫‪.4‬‬
‫تنش های عصبی‬ ‫‪.5‬‬

‫‪31‬‬
‫عوامل داخلی و خارجی برای ايجاد شوره سر‬
‫‪ ‬خارجی‬
‫‪ .1‬تغيير در رشد باکتری ها و قارچ های سطح سر‬
‫‪ .2‬واکنش ها التهابی موضعی به دنبال استفاده از برخی فرآورده‬
‫های آرايشی (لوسيون های الکلی قوی و صابون های قليايی)‬
‫‪ .3‬مصرف برخی داروها مانند داروهای ضد انعقاد و مدر‬

‫‪32‬‬
 Treatment
Active ingredient Example of product
Zinc pyrithione (0.5-2%), Head & Shoulder, Clinic air
clear, Pantene pro V
Ketoconazole (1-2%), Nizoral

Selenium sulphide (1-2%), Selsun blue

Climbazole (0.5-2%), Climbazole shampoo

Piroctone olamine (0.5-2%), Octopirox

Sulfur (1%), Sulfur shampoo

Salicylic acid (keratolytic) (1.8-3%), in combination

Tar (regulation of keratinization) Neutrogena T/gel 33

 Zinc pyrithione
 Zinc pyrithione is chemical compound used as
an antifungal and antibacterial agent. This
coordination complex, which has many names,
was first reported in the 1930s

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 Herbal Treatment
 Arctium majus root extract
 Arctium lappa extract
 Inga edulis extract
 Corydalis ambigua extract
 Rosmarinus officinalis extract
 Melissa officinalis extract
 Stenocalyx micalii extract
 Salix alba
 Zingiber officinale root extract
 Tea tree oil
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 9. Medicated shampoo
 Seboreic dermatitis:
 Salicylic acid, Tar, Pyrithione zinc

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 9. Medicated shampoo
 Psoriasis:
 Salicylic acid,
 Massage with liquid paraffin or peanut oil,

 Severe brushing is not suitable,

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 9. Medicated shampoo
 Contact dermatitis:
 Sensitive to formalin, parabens, hexachlorophen,
and miranols,

1. Amphoteric surfactants
2. Sulfunated succinic asid
3. Silicone glycoles
4. Peptide derivative of fatty acids
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 9. Medicated shampoo
 Hair growth:
 Pentadecane
(pentadecanoic acid glycerids)
 nutrition

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 10. Shampoo for normal hair
 Lauryl sulfates:

 Low cleansing,

 Suitable for thick hair shafts,

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 11. Shampoo for dry hair
 Mild cleansing + Conditioning:
 For damaged hair,

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 12. Shampoo for oily hair
 High cleansing effect:
 Lauryl sulfates,
 Sulfosuccinates,

 Like other shampoo with higher percent,

 Proposed: conditioner, 42
 13. baby shampoo
 Amphoteric

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 14. Shampoo for damaged hair
 Damaged hair like colored hair:
 Jojoba oil,
 Hydrolyzed proteins;
 Esters of polyol acids;

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 15. Conditioning shampoo
 Cationic surfactants, silicone derivatives:
 Amine oxides + nonionic or amphoteric,
 Amine oxides 5-10%,
 Sulfosuccinates,

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 16. Professional shampoo
 Concentrated acidic
anionic shampoo:
 Dilution 8-10 times,
 For hair coloring,

 Concentrated acidic
cationic shampoo:
 Final washing after hair
coloring,
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 17. Dry post menopausal shampoo
 Low sebum excretion:
 Two-in-one containing
dimethicone,

 Cold water,

 Hair serum,

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1. Cleansing or Foaming agent

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 1.1. Soaps
 Salts of fatty acid (animal fat or vegetable oil)

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 1.1. Soaps
 Fatty acid (chain 10-12) = better foam
 Fatty acid (chain 14-16) = better cleaning
especially in warm water
 Fatty acid (chain 16-18) = active in hot water
near to 70o C
 Sensitive to hard water
 Alkalinity dull appearance (acid rinsing)
50
1.2. Anionic Surfactants

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 A. Alkyl Benzene Sulfonate
 R – Ph – SO3Na
 R – Naph - SO3Na

52
 B. Alkyl Sulphates
 Most widely used anionic detergent
 Lauryl alcohol (C12H25OH): greater volume of
lather

 Myristyl alcohol (C14H29OH): greater richness of

lather
 Cethyl sulfates: usually too insoluble

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 C. Secondary alcohol Sulphates
 Sodium sec-lauryl sulfate
 Low foam inducing and cleansing effect,
 Wetting agent and emulsifier,

54
 D. Alkyl polyethylene Glycol Sulfate
(Alkyl Ether Sulphate)
 Sulphated polyethoxylated lauryl alcohol: more
hydrophilic than sodium salts

 Good foaming properties but, compared with

alkyl sulphates, the foam is lighter and more
open, collapsing readily in the presence of
grease, so that additions of foam booster and
stabilizer are required;
55
 E. Sulphosuccinates
 R–O–CO–CH(SO3-)-CH2-COO- 2M+

 Contain both a carboxylate and a sulphonate group

 R: fatty alcohol, fatty acid ethanolamide
 Average foamers and detergents;
 Mild to skin, and very low incidence of eye
irritation and sting,
 Some conditioning effect;
 Mild shampoo, frequent and baby shampoo;
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 F. Sarcosines
 Like soap
 Lauroyl and Cocoyl sarcosines

 Good foaming
 Good conditioning
 Good cleaning
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 G. Isethionates
 Isethionic acid derivative

 Igepon A
 Like Alkyl sulfate (low lathering)
 In household preparation and cosmetics
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 H. Methyl taurides

 Methyl taurine amides

 IgeponT
 Zweeter ion and conditioning effect
 Low lathering
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 I. Acyl peptides

 Acyl poly amino acids

 Conditioner
 Low lathering
 Lamepon and Maypon

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1.3. Cationic Surfactants

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 Cationic surfactants
 For rinsing
 Incompatibility with anionics (quaternery
ammonium salt)
1. Witcamide
2. Emcol

 Conditioning

62
 Cationic surfactants
1. Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride
(Camine AH-75)
2. Dilauryl dimethyl
ammonium chloride

3. Cetyl trimethyl
ammonium bromide
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 Cationic surfactants
4. N-Cetyl pyridinium bromide

5. Benethonium chloride

64
1.4. Nonionic Surfactants

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 1.4. Nonionic Surfactants
 Low lathering
 Compatible with anionics and cationics
 Not sensitivity to hard water
 Not sensitivity to pH
 Not irritant
 Opacifying effect

 Tween, Igepals, Pluronics

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1.5. Amphoteric Surfactants

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 1.5. Amphoteric Surfactants
 Zwitter ion
 Non irritant (baby shampoo):
1. Long chain alkyl N-sustituted amino acids
(Deriphat)

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 1.5. Amphoteric Surfactants
1. Asparagin derivatives

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 1.5. Amphoteric Surfactants
2.Long chain alkyl N-substituted betaines
(trimethyl glycine substituted with alkyl
sulfates

70
 1.5. Amphoteric Surfactants
3. Long chain alkyl derivatives of imidazolin
(Miranol)

71
 2. Thickening agents
 Synthetic polymers:
1. Carbopol
2. PVP
3. Acrysol ICS
4. Permasorb
5. Polyox
6. Reten

72
 2. Thickening agents
 Natural polymers:
1. Acacia
2. Carageenan
3. Corn starch
4. Gelatin
5. Guar gum
6. Tragacanth
7. Xanthan gum
73
 2. Thickening agents
 Cellulose derivatives:
1. HEC
2. CMC
3. Metocel
4. HPMC

 Inorganics:
1. Bentone gel
2. Bentonite
3. Sodium stearate 74
 3. Sequestering agents

 Prevention from hard soap formation

 Citric acid
 EDTA salts: Versen 100, Nullapon
 Tetra sodium pirophosphate
 Tri polyphosphate

75
 4. Opacifying agents
 Related to ingredients (egg shampoo)
 In soluble ingredients (anti dandruff)

1. Fatty alcohols 1-2% (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol)

2. Mono, di , or triglycerides
3. Spermaceti
4. Bees wax
5. Zinc oxide
6. Titanium dioxide
76
 4. Opacifying agents
 Pearling agent:
 Particle size
1. Tixotropic properties
2. Mg stearate
3. Zinc stearate
4. Mica + Titanium oxide (Timica)
5. Fish scales

77
 5. Clarifying agents
 Butyl alcohol
 Isopropyl alcohol
 Terpineol
 Diethylene glycol
 Propylene glycol
 Diethyl carbitole

78
 6. Conditioning agents
 Soluble for clear shampoo (Ucon HB-660)
 Insoluble for cream shampoo (Ucon LB-1715)
 Lanoline
 Isopropyl myristate
 Glycerin
 Propylene glycol
 Silicones
 Quaterner ammonium salts
79
 7. Foam boosters
 Fatty acids’ alkanol amides:
1. lauryl diethanolamide,
2. lauryl monoethanolamide,
3. coconate monoethanolamide
 Superamides
 Fatty alcohols
 Sarcosines
 phosphates
80
 8. Preservatives
 Methyl paraben
 Propyl paraben
 Butyl paraben
 Phenyl mercuric acetate
 Phenyl mercuric nitrate
 Bronopol
 etc

81
 8. Preservatives
 Methyl paraben
 Propyl paraben
 Butyl paraben
 Phenyl mercuric acetate
 Phenyl mercuric nitrate
 Bronopol
 etc

82
9. Perfumes and Dyes

83
10. Water

84
 DRY HAIR AND SCALP

 inactive sebaceous glands

 dry climate
hair appears dull, dry and
lifeless
 moisturizers and emollients
Avoid frequent
shampooing
Avoid
~ strong soaps
~ detergents
~ products with high
alcohol content
Dry hair
~not overly-porous
 OILY HAIR AND SCALP

Causes:
greasy buildup on scalp
oily coating
improper shampooing
overactive sebaceous glands
normalizing shampoo
Well-balanced diet
Exercise
Regular shampooing
Good personal hygiene

will control oily hair and scalp

Cosmetics & Toiletries
(Soaps)

90
 History
 As European civilizations emerged from the Dark
Ages in the 9th and 10th centuries soap making
as well established and centered in Marseilles
(France), Savona (Italy), and Castilla (Spain).

91
 History
 In those days soap was a luxury affordable only
by the very rich. Mass manufacture of soap
started in the 19th century

92
 History
 Synthetic detergents emerged in the 20th. century,
primarily for fabric washing products.

 While there are many types of synthetic

detergent, very few are suitable for making
cleansing bars.

93
Soap structure

94
 Formulation technology
 Cleansing bars are made of surfactants that are
solid at room temperature and readily soluble in
water.

 While there are scores of commercially available

surfactants only two, alkyl carboxylate (soap)
and acyl isethionate (syndet), are used on a large
scale for manufacture of cleansing bars
95
Formulation technology

96
Soap bars

97
 Basic soap
 The pH of soap is typically in the range 9 – 11.

 C12–14 soaps are soluble and lather easily. C16–

18 soaps are less soluble but good for forming
solid bars.

 The plant oils are mostly triglycerides and when

treated with a base they hydrolyze to the fatty
acid salts (soap) and glycerol.
98
 Superfatted soap bars
 Less drying soaps are made by adjusting the soap
making process to leave an excess of free fatty
acid in the final soap composition (superfatted
soaps).

 This excess fatty acid reduces the lipid stripping

and drying effects of a soap bar to a small extent.
Beauty soaps are typically superfatted soaps.
99
 Transparent soaps
 There are several types of transparent or semi –
transparent soap bars.

 The earliest was a rosin glycerin soap bar

developed by Andrew Pears in 1789.

100
Transparent soaps

101
 Transparent soaps
 The ingredients of Pears patented transparent
soap were sodium palmitate, natural rosin,
glycerin, water, C12 soap, rosemary extract,
thyme extract, and fragrance.

 The process is the dissolving the raw soap and

other ingredients in alcohol, pouring into moulds
followed by up to 3 months of evaporation and
drying. 102
 Transparent soaps
A different type of
transparent bar was
introduced in 1955 by
Neutrogena based on a
patented formulation
invented by a Belgian
cosmetic chemist, Edmond
Fromont.
103
 Transparent soaps
 The ingredients of the Neutrogena bar are
triethanolamine stearate, C12–18 soaps,
glycerine, water, and a range of minor ingredients
including a little lanolin derivative and fragrance.

 Triethanolamine forms acid soaps so the pH of

the Neutrogena bar at pH 8 – 9 is lower than a
regular soap with sodium as the cation.
104
 Antibacterial and deodorant soap bars
 These products are basic soaps containing one of
a limited number of approved antibacterial
agents. Some of these products are positioned as
deodorant soap to inhibit the odor-producing
bacteria of the axilla.

105
 Combination bars, Combar
 Soap + Mild synthetic detergents

 Low irritation (pH reaches to 9-9.5)

106
Syndet bars

107
 Syndet bars
 This product, introduced to the US market in
1957 as the Dove bar, is based on patented acyl
isethionate as the surfactant component in
combination with stearic acid which has a dual
function of providing the physical characteristics
for forming a stable bar and also acting as a
significant skin protecting and moisturizing
ingredient.
108
Syndet bars

109
 Syndet bars
 The high level of stearic acid in the Dove bar is
the basis of the one - quarter moisturizing cream
in the product.

110
 Syndet bars
 When the patents for this novel technology ran
out, several other acyl isethionate bars were
introduced in the USA market including Caress,
Olay, Cetaphil, and Aveeno.

111
 Cleansing liquid
 Anionic +
Amphoteric
surfactants

 Amino acid base

surfactants

112