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craft beverages
and tourism,
volume 1
Craft Beverages and Tourism, Volume 1
 Carol Kline • Susan L. Slocum • Christina T. Cavaliere
Editors

Craft Beverages and

Tourism, Volume 1
The Rise of Breweries and Distilleries in the
United States
Editors
Carol Kline Susan L. Slocum
Appalachian State University Manassas, Virginia, USA
Raleigh, North Carolina, USA

Christina T. Cavaliere
Stockton University
Manahawkin, New Jersey, USA

ISBN 978-3-319-49851-5    ISBN 978-3-319-49852-2 (eBook)

DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-49852-2

Library of Congress Control Number: 2017933990

© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s) 2017

This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the
Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of
translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on
microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval,
electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now
known or hereafter developed.
The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this
publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are
exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use.
The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information
in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the
publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to
the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The
publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and
institutional affiliations.

Cover illustration: © Monty Rakusen

Printed on acid-free paper

This Palgrave Macmillan imprint is published by Springer Nature

The registered company is Springer International Publishing AG
The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland
 Reviewer Thank You/Acknowledgments

This book could not have been completed without the expertise of
our reviewers. Thank you to the following individuals for offering their
time and guidance to the project: Suzanne Ainley, The Ainley Group;
Donna Albano, Stockton University; Abel Duarte Alonso, Liverpool
Business School; Stefanie Benjamin, The University of Tennessee; Berkita
S. Bradford, Virginia State University; Erick T. Byrd, University of North
Carolina at Greensboro; David A. Cárdenas, University of South Carolina;
Janna R. Caspersen, University of Tennessee; John C. Crotts, College
of Charleston; Donald Getz, University of Calgary; Josette P. Katz,
Atlantic Cape Community College; Adam J. Mathews, Oklahoma State
University; Alison Murray, East Carolina University; Alex Naar, Virginia
Polytechnic Institute and State University; Christian M. Rogerson,
University of Johannesburg; Jason R. Swanson, University of Kentucky;
Wei Wang, The University of Southern Mississippi; Helena A. Williams,
GastroGatherings & Mar-Kadam Associates; and Robert L. Williams,
Susquehanna University.

v
 Contents

1 Introduction  1
Carol Kline and Brian R. Bulla

2 The Impact and Implications of Craft Beer Research:

An Interdisciplinary Literature Review 11
Erik Tyler Withers

3 Growth and Development of Craft Spirit Tourism:

The Fermenting Giant? 25
Zachary D. Cole

4 Craft Cider Tourism: Getting to the Core of the Matter 41

Carol Kline and Zachary D. Cole

5 Life on the “Beer Frontier”: A Case Study of Craft

Beer and Tourism in West Virginia 57
Daniel Eades, Doug Arbogast, and Jason Kozlowski

6 Highland Brewing Company: A Case of Product

and Experience Design 75
Mark Lewis, Rob Hornyak, and Richard W. Pouder

vii
viii Contents

7 As if Beaches and Theme Parks Were Not Enough:

Mediated Social Construction of Craft Beer Tourism
in Tampa Bay  89
Travis R. Bell

8 Tourism as a Business Strategy for Growth in Oregon

and Washington Craft Breweries  105
Alison Dunn and Gerry Kregor

9 Return of a Rebellious Spirit: Whiskey Distilling and

Heritage Tourism in Southwestern Pennsylvania  119
Leslie Przybylek

10 Whiskey’s Resurgence: Distributed Distilling in the

Post-Prohibition Era  139
Sebastian Hernandez and Anton Dekom

11 Moonshine in North Carolina: Crafting

Quality for Tourism  155
Carla Barbieri and Annie Baggett

12 A Summary of Volume 1: The Rise of Breweries and

Distilleries in the United States  173
Christina T. Cavaliere

Index  183
 Notes on Contributors

Doug Arbogast is West Virginia University Extension Service’s Rural Tourism

Specialist. He conducts research and delivers training on rural tourism development
in destinations across the state and works collaboratively with West Virginia University
faculty and students to promote the sustainable development of tourism in West
Virginia. His research interests include rural tourism, sustainable tourism develop-
ment, tourism planning, tourism management, and regional competitiveness.
Annie Baggett serves as the Agritourism Marketing Specialist with the
N.C. Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (NCDA&CS). With
30 years of sales, marketing, communications, and public relations experience in
the private and nonprofit sectors, farms and creative entrepreneurs are a priority.
As a farmer herself welcoming guests to the family farm, with unique insight into
tourism, her work is in support of agribusinesses that educate and entertain the
public through NCDA&CS services, programs, and partnerships.
Carla Barbieri is Associate Professor in Equitable and Sustainable Tourism at
North Carolina State University, USA. Her research focuses on agritourism, farm
entrepreneurial diversification, and rural well-being. Barbieri also investigates the
economic, socio-cultural, and environmental impacts of specialized forms of tour-
ism, especially those related to agricultural resources, such as wine tourism. She
uses sustainability, sociological, and tourism approaches to frame her studies.
Travis R. Bell is Multimedia Journalism Instructor in the Zimmerman School of
Advertising & Mass Communications and a PhD student in the Department of
Communication at the University of South Florida in Tampa, Florida. He teaches
electronic field production and television news courses, as well as special topics
related to sports media. His doctoral research focuses on qualitative methods, with
a particular emphasis on ethnography and media effects. Primarily centered on

ix
x NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS

sport communication, his research has branched into craft beer and hip-hop music.
In addition to his university commitments, Bell is a documentary filmmaker,
including a short film about two Tampa Bay craft breweries. Prior to his teaching
career, he was a multimedia journalist at five television stations across a twelve-year
broadcasting career. He remains active as a freelance producer, writer, and
videographer.
Brian R. Bulla is Assistant Professor of Public Administration at Appalachian
State University. Brian’s research and interests include public policy analysis, cli-
mate change adaptation, and adaptive governance. Bulla holds a PhD from North
Carolina State University. He was a post-doctoral research associate at Purdue
University prior to joining Appalachian State.
Christina T. Cavaliere is Environmental Social Scientist and International
Sustainable Development Specialist focused on linking tourism and biocultural
conservation. She serves as Assistant Professor of Hospitality and Tourism
Management and Sustainability at Stockton University. Her research interests
include tourism and climate change, local economies, sustainable agriculture and
ecogastronomy, permaculture, agritourism, and community redevelopment. She
has designed and implemented conservation projects, field trainings, and research
projects in over 35 countries and her articles have appeared in several A-ranked
academic journals.
Zachary D. Cole is Assistant Professor of Hospitality and Tourism Management
at Flagler College. He teaches about culture, development, and impacts in the
context of global travel and tourism. His research interests include niche tourism
development, outdoor recreation, social impacts of tourism, and sustainability in
planning and policy. When not undertaking field research on craft beverages, he
enjoys the outdoors and exploring new places.
Anton Dekom is currently an architectural designer at The Miller Hull Partnership
in Seattle. He received his Bachelor of Architecture degree from Cornell University
in 2012 and received the Charles Goodwin Sands Bronze Medal for his thesis
research on the phenomenological and psychological qualities of domestic spaces.
His personal interests include philosophy of mind, phenomenology, and the aes-
thetics of the everyday. He is a recipient of the Robert James Eidlitz Traveling
Fellowship and has conducted research on the design and history of whiskey bar-
rel-aging warehouses.
Alison Dunn graduated from Strathclyde University in Glasgow with a PhD in
Environmental Planning in 1998. She has lectured in leisure and tourism manage-
ment at the University of Gloucestershire, University of Queensland, and York St
John University. She joined the University of Tasmania in 2006 and is now
researching tourism and teaching tourism management in the Tasmanian School
of Business and Economics. Her main research interests are in niche, premium
products as tourist attractions.
 NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS xi

Daniel Eades is West Virginia University Extension Service’s Rural Development

Specialist. His teaching and outreach activities engage government and commu-
nity leaders in the process of data-driven economic development decision-making.
His research interests include rural and regional development economics, com-
munity development, and the intersections between regional food and agriculture
initiatives and the state’s rural economies.
Sebastian Hernandez is a Seattle-based designer at Gensler. He received a
Bachelor of Architecture degree from Cornell University in 2012, where he was a
Cornell Traditions Fellow as well as a Christiania Researcher in Residence Fellow.
He is principally interested in the documentation of ephemeralities by drawing and
digital fabrication, as well as speculative design relating to extreme social, political,
or natural conditions. He was recently awarded the Fellowship 41 Grant to explore
alternative applications of 3D printing in data visualization and architectural analy-
sis. He received the Robert James Eidlitz Traveling Fellowship in 2013, which
resulted in a joint research project called “The Architecture of Aging” that
explored the barrel-aging process of whiskey.
Rob Hornyak received his doctoral degree from the Center for Process Innovation
at Georgia State University and is currently Assistant Professor of Information
Systems at the W.P. Carey School of Business at Arizona State University. His
research articles have appeared in the Journal of Operations Management and the
Journal of Information Systems and focuses at the intersection of Information
Systems and Supply Chain Management.
Carol Kline is Associate Professor of Hospitality and Tourism Management at
Appalachian State University in the Department of Management. Her research
interests focus broadly on tourism planning and development and tourism sustain-
ability, but cover a range of topics such as foodie segmentation, craft beverages,
agritourism, wildlife-based tourism, animal ethics in tourism, tourism entrepre-
neurship, niche tourism markets, and tourism impacts to communities.
Jason Kozlowski is Labor Historian and Labor Educator in West Virginia
University Extensive Service’s Institute for Labor Studies and Research (ILSR).
He conducts teaching and research programs for labor unions and labor-manage-
ment programs on labor relations and workplace concerns around the state. In
addition, he develops and disseminates applied and academic research on historical
and contemporary issues such as pertinent economic and policy matters.
Gerry Kregor hails from Tasmania, Australia, and has worked and taught at uni-
versities in Tasmania, Queensland, and the United Kingdom in horticulture, cell
biology, information technology, and higher education practice. His interest in
tourism came about through cooperation on horticultural tourism and craft-food
tourism projects. Gerry is a keen beer-traveler, amateur brewer, cider maker, and
fermenter of many foods and is currently undertaking further studies in microbiol-
ogy to develop this interest.
xii NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS

Mark Lewis is an Assistant Professor of Management at the Walker College of

Business, Appalachian State University. His research focuses at the intersection of
design thinking and strategy with the intent of helping organizations increase their
innovation capacity. His research articles have appeared in various journals as well
as national and international conferences. Before entering academia, Mark worked
with IBM Global Services. His research has been sponsored by companies such as
UPS, Chrysler, Hewlett-Packard, Gartner, and SAP.
Richard W. Pouder holds a PhD in Management from the University of
Connecticut. He is Professor of Management at Appalachian State University.
Pouder’s research focuses on topics that include geography and competition,
innovation, investor reaction to strategic events, and application of strategic plan-
ning methods in various industry settings. His articles have appeared in Academy
of Management Review, Journal of Operations Management, Journal of Management
Studies, Growth and Change, and Journal of Managerial Issues.
Leslie Przybylek , M.A., is Curator of History with the Senator John Heinz
History Center and a humanities consultant. She has developed numerous profes-
sional museum exhibitions and writes on aspects of historical memory, frontier
mythology, and technological development in the United States. She has pub-
lished multiple articles in the fields of American history and folklore including
contributions to Western Pennsylvania History and American Myths, Legends, and
Tall Tales: An Encyclopedia of American Folklore.
Susan L. Slocum is Assistant Professor in the Department of Tourism and Event
Management at George Mason University, Virginia. She has worked on regional
planning and development for 15 years and worked with rural communities in
Tanzania, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Her focus is on rural sus-
tainable development, policy implementation, and food tourism, specifically work-
ing with small businesses and in less advantaged communities. She received her
doctoral education from Clemson University.
Erik Tyler Withers is a PhD student and Graduate Instructor in the Sociology
Department at the University of South Florida. His current research focuses on
the overlap of consumer culture with racial and ethnic identities and inequalities.
Erik’s interest in craft beer-related research started during his prior career where he
worked in the craft beer, wine, and specialty foods industry.
 List of Figures

Fig. 5.1 Mapping the rise of craft beer (Source: Fromson, 2013) 59
Fig. 5.2 Location of West Virginia craft breweries (shaded) and
interview locations (numbered) 62
Fig. 5.3 Iron Horse “One WV” 66
Fig. 5.4 Morgantown Brewing Company “Local” t-shirt 67
Fig. 6.1 Five dimensions of the HBC experience 85
Fig. 11.1 Location of study distilleries 160

xiii
 List of Tables

Table 5.1 Locations of West Virginia breweries included in study 62

Table 6.1 Dimensions of experience adapted from Kalbach (2015) 83
Table 8.1 Profile of breweries in the study 107

xv
 CHAPTER 1

Introduction

Carol Kline and Brian R. Bulla

The paired set Craft Beverages and Tourism, Volume 1: The Rise of Breweries
and Distilleries in the United States and Craft Beverages and Tourism,
Volume 2: Environmental, Societal, and Marketing Implications are about
the intersection of two significant industries. While the geographic scope
of these books is limited to the United States, the books are applicable
worldwide because the topics of destination development, experience
development, marketing, social and environmental impacts, and consumer
education are relevant and readily transferable beyond the boundaries of
the United States.

C. Kline (*)
Walker College of Business, Appalachian State University,
Boone, USA
B.R. Bulla
Dept. of Government & Justice Studies, Appalachian State University,
Boone, USA

© The Author(s) 2017 1

C. Kline et al. (eds.), Craft Beverages and Tourism, Volume 1,
DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-49852-2_1
2 C. KLINE AND B.R. BULLA

The Craft Beverages and Tourism book project began from our desire
to compile emerging research on the topic at hand. Because of the trans-
disciplinary nature of craft beverage tourism, we knew there was a multi-
tude of ways to examine this growing phenomenon. Indeed, we received
so many proposals from our original call for chapters, it became evident
that two volumes were needed to capture the breadth of topics related to
craft beverages and tourism. Both volumes of Craft Beverages and Tourism
include established and emerging writers from a variety of disciplinary per-
spectives; within Volume 1, we highlight the evolution of destinations,
businesses, and entrepreneurs associated with this growing market.
Within the past two decades, the craft beverage industry has exploded
in the market, in part because the brewers are able to “hyperdifferentiate”
between corporate brands as well as other craft beverages (Mathews &
Patton, 2016). Craft beer dominates the beverage scene; however, craft
cider is another manifestation of this burgeoning market. While the pro-
cess of creating cider is closer to wine than beer, cider is often offered at
breweries as well as manifesting in individual cideries. Similarly to beer,
cider’s international ties are undeniable. Distilleries are yet another off-
shoot of this movement for craft beverages.
Craft beverage tourism is an exciting arena that intersects with many
other current areas of growing scholarship, for example innovation and
ingenuity, legislative oppression and globalization, and sense of place
(Haven-Tang & Jones, 2006; Niester, 2008). Examples of craft bever-
age tourism can include tours of production facilities, visiting breweries,
pubs, brasseries, exploring self-driving trails or routes, destination pack-
ages or themed weekend getaways, beverage tastings or food pairings, fes-
tivals and other public events, visiting museum and collections, and the
acquisition of themed-visitor merchandise (Bujdosó & Szûcs, 2012; Dunn
& Wickham, 2015; Plummer, Telfer, Hashimoto, and Summers 2005).
Many general tourism trends intersect with craft beverage industries. For
example, Millennial travel motivations and patterns continue to shape,
invert, and expand the types of experience development and marketing
within the tourism industry. Additionally learning while traveling contin-
ues to hold strong, and the sharing economy and on-demand economy
transects with craft beverage growth. Destination marketing organizations
are increasingly using videos to tell the story of their place and food and
beverage entrepreneurs are taking front stage. Most specialty research is
conducted around food and beverage tourism.
 INTRODUCTION 3

A recent study by the World Food Tourism Association (Stone, Migacz,

& Wolf, 2016) investigated food-related travel habits of leisure travelers
from ten countries (Australia, China, France, Germany, India, Ireland,
Mexico, Spain, United Kingdom, and United States). Of the over 2500
respondents, 93% participated in culinary activity while traveling within
the last year. Particular to craft beverage tourism, 47% are beverage trav-
elers, based on the definition used by the authors: “leisure travelers who
have participated in an intentional wine, beer or spirits activity while on a
trip in the last two years” (Stone et al., 2016, slide 35). One-sixth (17%)
had visited a brewery, taproom, or beer trail (15% of US respondents) and
65% had consumed a local beer on at least half of their trips in the last two
years. Perhaps even more interesting, 82% admitted to spending more on
food and drinks while traveling than at home and 85% consider themselves
knowledgeable about food and drinks.
A recent Skift report entitled Food tourism strategies to drive destination
spending echoed the same positive trend toward beverage tourism:

In 2016, food tourism continues to revolve more around the rise of spirits,
craft beers, and other alcoholic drink categories. Beverage trails, first made
popular by destinations such as Kentucky and its Bourbon Trail, are surfac-
ing in other parts of the country. Beer culture in particular is booming in
America. Craft beer, especially, has grown into a massive consumer market.…
destinations are developing travel experiences that combine local breweries
and brewpubs to tap that interest. Other cities are creating similar product
experiences around coffee, spirits, liqueurs, etc., to rebrand their identities for
foodies….Destinations are missing out on longer stays, more repeat visitation,
and higher average visitor spending if they’re not packaging and promoting
their food tourism product in line with 2016 trends. (Oates, 2016, Executive
Summary)

The demand exemplified by these studies underscore the need for addi-
tional basic and applied research on craft beverage tourism.

Craft Beverages and Communities

Alcoholic beverages have a long history across cultures and societies.
Likewise, they have been firmly entrenched within the history of the
United States. The recent rise of craft beverages is an expansion of the
local foods movement, which is a rejection of the notion that our food
must be sourced from monolithic and industrialized producers. Moreover,
4 C. KLINE AND B.R. BULLA

the rise of craft beverages signals the grassroots development of a space

where multiple generations, social entrepreneurs, and community-focused
innovators can forge their own path. Brewers are serious and passionate
about their craft (Thurnell-Read, 2014), value authenticity, being con-
nected to a particular community, and their product, but they also under-
stand the joy of a finely flavored drink and the larger social context in
which to enjoy it. The connective power of community and alcohol was
depicted in the US TV show Cheers that ran for 11 seasons from 1982
to 1993, revolving around several characters within a Boston bar, and
whose tagline “where everybody knows your name” captured the sense
of community within the public bar. While the bartenders in Cheers were
likely serving corporate brands, the show captured the microcosm of the
local gathering space. For some, the craft brewery has become their ‘third
place’ (Oldenburg, 1989), regardless of whether it is in their hometown
or a new place found while traveling.
Alcoholic beverages elicit a multitude of responses depending on your
background. The philosophical roots of prohibition within the United
States still have a firm hold in many rural communities. While some US
counties remain embattled in heated debates over alcohol legislation, oth-
ers are building a new economy on entrepreneurship that includes the
craft beverage scene, outdoor recreation amenities, “creative” careers,
and place-based (PB) and location-neutral jobs. The brewery or distillery
serves as the medium to the development so much more within communi-
ties: a sense of local pride, a space where ideas can be exchanged and voices
heard, a revival of the craft economy, and an atmosphere that attracts cre-
ative professionals. Studies have documented the spiraling effect of chang-
ing communities, where one small change leads to another, then another,
to which point a critical mass of shifts have occurred in the built, cul-
tural, human, social landscapes of a town or region (Delconte, Kline, &
Scavo, 2015; Stone & Nyaupane, 2015; Zahra & McGehee, 2013). New
businesses that arise within the craft beverage tourism landscape have the
potential to create a ripple effect of impacts within their host region.
Craft breweries are typically embedded in communities with a strong
sense of place, and central to creating that sense of place is PB develop-
ment. PB development involves the “identification and mobilisation of
endogenous potential … the ability of places to grow drawing on their
own resources notably their human capital and innovative capacities”
(Tomaney, 2010 p. 6). It is founded on “the premise that a local economy
must be developed as an appropriate response to the opportunities and
 INTRODUCTION 5

limitations of that particular place. Place-based economy is a participatory

bottom-up economy where the individual community building efforts of
local businesses and residents create a collective unique identity and sense
of place” (Rangwala, 2010 p. 42). PB economies include tourism, local
food processing, distribution and retail, health care, and a number of jobs
related to arts and other creative endeavors such as visual and performing
arts, design, media, publishing, museums and heritage, and culinary arts
(Regional Technologies Strategies (RTS), 2011). For instances, within
North Carolina, these latter creative industries “directly and indirectly
account for 5.31 percent of the state’s gross domestic product with a con-
tribution of more than $19.5 billion, sustains 5.54% of the state’s employ-
ment, and creates $41.4 billion in goods and services” (RTS, 2009, p.5).
Similarly, Mississippi boasts over 40,000 residents employed in creative
enterprises with nearly one-fifth of them self-employed (RTS, 2011). In a
White House memo dated June 21, 2010, addressed to Executive Offices
and Agency Heads, a number of guidelines were outlined to encourage
the continued application of “place-based principles to existing policies,
potential reforms, and promising innovations, with a particular focus
on strengthening economic growth and achieving greater cost effective-
ness” (Orszag, Barnes, Douglas & Summers, 2010). Such policies also
leverage investments by focusing resources in targeted places as noted by
Cytron (2010) who highlighted the federal government’s investments in
PB initiatives through Choice Neighborhoods, Promise Neighborhoods,
Sustainable Communities, and the Healthy Food Financing Initiatives
programs. Craft beverage processing and tasting facilities are solidly
embedded within the PB economy.
Location-neutral businesses (LNBs) and jobs, on the other hand, are
those that can be located in any number of places, but primarily are in their
current location because of quality of life preferences. LNB and location-­
neutral employees rely on the concept of telecommuting or remote work-
ing and can include occupations in transformative, distributive, retail, and
services (Moore & Ford, 2006). A 2005 study in Routt Town, Colorado,
confirmed that survey respondents were attracted to the town by the sense
of community, outdoor recreation and children’s recreation opportuni-
ties, general safety from crime, and due to affordable broadband they were
able to live in and work from Routt Town. Most of the communities’ busi-
nesses “are deeply committed to and actively involved in community and
participate with local non-profits, children’s sports, schools, churches, and
civic clubs” (Moore & Ford, 2006, p.2).
6 C. KLINE AND B.R. BULLA

Entrepreneurial activity demonstrated in many LNB and PB businesses

is a suitable strategy for many rural regions because oftentimes decisions
about jobs and development in rural communities are decisions that are
made locally. Because innovation is a core value/aspect of PB develop-
ment and location-neutral development (Moore & Ford, 2006; Tomaney,
2010) both of these economic strategies resonate with the craft beer mar-
ket and are therefore incorporated into this book project. Because most
rural communities do not have a comprehensive business infrastructure,
entrepreneurship encourages regional interplay as well as a regional iden-
tity (Low, 2004; McGehee & Kline, 2008). Both entrepreneurship and PB
businesses are important parts of a healthy economic strategy, manifested
recently in “cluster” and “corridor” and regional development efforts.
The social and cultural benefits of small-scale locally owned businesses
like craft breweries are associated with higher-average income levels, less
income inequality, less juvenile delinquency, less unemployment, more voter
turnout, and better public health (Tolbert, Mencken, & Blanchard, 2012).
Specific to public health, Tolbert, Mencken, and Blanchard (2012) ana-
lyzed federal statistics for over 30,000 counties to determine if there were
associations between a variety of health indicators and the presence of small
businesses (any industry). They found that the number of small businesses
per person is related to lower levels of obesity, diabetes, and rate of death;
the number of large retailers per person was associated with higher levels of
obesity and rate of death. They summarized that a substantial “small busi-
ness presence fosters an entrepreneurial culture within the community to
address local needs” (Tolbert, Mencken, & Blanchard, 2012, p.15). Van
Praag and Versloot (2007, p. 351) sum up the value of entrepreneurs as
such “we conclude that entrepreneurs have a very important—but specific—
function in the economy. They engender relatively much employment, cre-
ation, productivity, growth, and produce and commercialize high-quality
innovations.” Many of the chapters within this volume provide tangible
examples of innovation within rural and urban settings of the United States.

Craft Beverage Tourism Research

Within the tourism literature, much has been written about the general
culinary tourist and the wine tourist; however, the craft beverage market is
expanding very quickly and provides a wide and novel platform for inves-
tigation. The gap in the literature remains wide, even into the 2000s when
the oft cited articles by Augustyn (2000), Augustyn and Pheby (2000),
 INTRODUCTION 7

Schnell and Reese (2003), Sharpies (2003), Plummer et al. (2005),

Plummer, Telfer, and Hashimoto (2006), McBoyle and McBoyle (2008)
appeared.
Despite all the ways that alcohol influences individual and community
life, there is very little written in the academic literature to understand the
cultural shifts this reflects in communities, and how it affects local dynam-
ics in business and supply chains, denoting the best business practices to
cater to local residents as well as tourists, market profiles, as well as its envi-
ronmental challenges and opportunities. Some of the earliest academic
research on beer tourism was published in 1997 and 1999 (Flack, 1997;
Martin & Haugh, 1999). Despite the increasing number of beverage-­
related research in social sciences, a comparison of trends, best practices,
and visitor travel patterns and motivations across breweries, cideries, dis-
tilleries, and destinations would be beneficial to learn from various geo-
graphical and cultural spheres.
To that end, Volume 1 begins to fill these gaps in knowledge. This
book begins with three summary chapters, designed to provide the “lay
of the land” regarding craft beer, cider, and spirits research; literature on
the latter two topics is particularly sparse. In Chapter 2, Erik Withers pro-
vides an interdisciplinary literature review of craft beer research whereby
he explores the social, economic, and cultural dynamics of craft beer using
themes of space, place, and identity; production, markets, and consumer
culture; tourism; and sustainability. Zac Cole contributes two chapters out-
lining trends and nuances of craft cider tourism and craft spirit tourism. He
charts the development of craft spirits and craft spirits tourism in Chapter
3, contextualizing it within the broader landscape of distillery alcohol
sales. In Chapter 4, he joins Carol Kline in a tribute to the nascent focus
of cider within the tourism industry, pointing out the geographic places
and events where a cider enthusiast can enjoy a beverage while traveling.
The rest of the book is devoted to developing craft beverage expe-
riences and destinations. In Chapter 5, Daniel Eades, Doug Arbogast,
and Jason Kozlowski provide a case study of craft beer tourism in West
Virginia. Mark Lewis, Rob Hornyak, and Richard Pouder (Chapter 6)
highlight the value propositions of Highland Brewing Company in the
“beer city” of Asheville, North Carolina, and demonstrate the success of
Highland in providing great services and experiences toward the end of
creating value and competitive advantage.
In Chapter 7, Travis Bell details craft beer tourism growth in Tampa Bay,
Florida. He details the integrated efforts of brewery and tourism organization
8 C. KLINE AND B.R. BULLA

website language, a new university brewing curriculum, and how mass media
stories coalesce into facilitated support systems that co-­construct a positive
narrative of craft beer. And in Chapter 8, Alison Dunn and Gerry Kregor
present a case of Seattle and Portland craft brewers’ use of tourism practices
to support their pursuit of market penetration.
The last three chapters provide various interpretations on distillery
tourism. First, Leslie Przybylek (Chapter 9) carefully weaves a narrative of
current day marketing campaigns that employ historical rebellion (an eigh-
teenth-century distiller’s tax protest) as a part of their brand. In Chapter
10, Sebastian Hernandez and Anton Dekom continue the theme of whiskey
tourism but propose a different lens. Through an emphasis of authentic-
ity, they investigate how distilleries have worked to construct and interpret
their own unique identity as a response to increased whiskey consump-
tion and tourism. Finally in Chapter 11, Carla Barbieri and Annie Baggett
trace the history of moonshine in North Carolina to reveal its modern day
manifestations in tourism. They demonstrate how preserving the unique-
ness of their products and stories, tying their product to local agricultural
ingredients, and targeting the locavore tourist market will sustain the suc-
cess of the moonshine producers. Within the concluding chapter, Christina
Cavaliere draws parallels between the chapters and outlines a broad vision
of the innovative research presented in this volume. She draws four primary
themes to the forefront for the reader that have emerged from this first
volume. These themes include: the interdisciplinary of the craft beverages-
cape, the evolution of the craft turn, the role of co-creation for innovation,
and community redevelopment and sociocultural place making.
The regions represented in Volume 1 represent just some of the craft
beverage destinations taking shape in the United States. We are witness-
ing the beginning of a burgeoning-to-booming market of craft beverage
tourism, and this research in corresponding fashion provides cutting edge
insight into this type of travel. In this increasingly globalized world, we are
seeking uniqueness and craft beverages allow us to “taste place,” becom-
ing one more way that we can understand the world using our senses. We
hope you enjoy your favorite craft beverage while reading these chapters.

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 CHAPTER 2

The Impact and Implications of Craft

Beer Research: An Interdisciplinary
Literature Review

Erik Tyler Withers

Over the past 30 years, the USA has gone through a complete beer make-
over. What was once considered a beverage for the working-class man,
beer has become a sophisticated and complex consumer entity that spans
across many demographic categories. Craft beer now transgresses social
scenes from hipster to hippie, from country clubs to ball games, and from
music festivals to yoga studios. High-end restaurants now sport beer lists
that match the length and depth of their wine menus. Craft beers such as
Lagunitas’ IPA, Stone’s “Arrogant Bastard,” and Cigar City’s “Florida
Cracker” can now be found on the shelves of gas stations and convenient
stores. When the tired runners of the Chicago Marathon trudge through
the finish line, they are quickly handed a Goose Island “312 Urban Wheat
Ale” as a celebratory gesture. In short, craft beer pervades many aspects of
US mainstream culture.
In addition to “sudsing” its way into the social and leisure lives of many
Americans, craft beer has also foamed over into the offices and classrooms

E.T. Withers (*)

Department of Sociology, University of South Florida,
Tampa, USA

© The Author(s) 2017 11

C. Kline et al. (eds.), Craft Beverages and Tourism, Volume 1,
DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-49852-2_2
12 E.T. WITHERS

of academia. Unsurprisingly, the rise in craft beer popularity has caught

the attention of researchers from many different academic disciplines.
Starting in the late 1990s, researchers have used craft beer as a colorful
vehicle in which to explore many aspects of the social world. This chapter
is meant to give the reader an interdisciplinary overview of some of these
scholarly endeavors. The driving questions of this chapter are: What are
some of the main themes that have emerged from the recent scholarship
on craft beer? And, how has craft beer been used as a colorful example to
illustrate some of the ways that people navigate their social worlds through
consumer products?
The focus of this chapter is solely on academic work that has been
done within the social sciences on craft beer. The goal is to provide an
interdisciplinary framework that may inform future academic work on
the subject. This chapter is organized by the main themes that have
emerged from the body of scholarship that involves craft beer, which
are: space, place, and identity; production, markets, and consumer cul-
ture; tourism; and sustainability. These themes were chosen for two rea-
sons. First, they are the most evident areas of focus that run through the
current academic literatures on the topic of craft beer. By incorporat-
ing scholarship that falls into these themes, a broad overview of how
craft beer has been covered within academia is provided. Secondly, these
themes are some of the most relevant to the broader scope of this vol-
ume. All articles included in this chapter come from peer reviewed aca-
demic publishing outlets and were found through searches using online
scholarly research databases.
The main focus of this review is how people interact through, with,
and around craft beer within business and leisure settings, therefore only
works from within the social and behavioral sciences are included; works
that cover the biological or natural qualities of craft beer are not included.
Furthermore, in this chapter “craft beer” is conceptualized as a beer that
(1) is brewed, bottled, and sold by a privately owned brewery; (2) is small
in production (six million barrels or less); and (3) contains only “tradi-
tional” ingredients (Brewers Association, 2016). Therefore, scholarship
focusing on home brewing or other craft-beer-related products has not
been included. After a review of the aforementioned themes, this chapter
concludes with a discussion of some of the future directions that may add
to the development of this lively area of focus.
 THE IMPACT AND IMPLICATIONS OF CRAFT BEER RESEARCH:... 13

Space, Place, and Identity

Craft beer is made from a combination of four main ingredients: water,
malts, yeast, and hops. However, the complexity of this simple beverage,
according to Patterson and Hoalst-Pullen (2014), is due to variances in
geography. The USA is split up into many regions, each fostering its own
set of histories, styles, communities, and cultures. Researchers have used
craft beer to explore how these regional elements work together to con-
struct meanings of products and consumer practices. Craft beer then, is
a vessel through which people can engage with local places. Researchers
within this line of work are not only interested in how a product (such as
beer) shapes the local settings in which it is produced and consumed, but
are more so interested in how the region shapes the product.
For instance, Patterson and Hoalst-Pullen (2014) investigate how local
communities are involved in constructing the meanings of the craft beers
in their regions. The authors hold that “The production of beer, particu-
larly craft beers, is partially dependent on the ingredients but more so the
brewers and localism (or regionalism) of beer style varieties” (Patterson
& Hoalst-Pullen, 2014, p. 1). They point to the synergetic relationship
between a region’s history, localism, and the innovative nature of local
brew masters, who stress the importance of place within the production
of craft beer (Patterson & Hoalst-Pullen, 2014). In this sense, craft beer
styles and flavors are cultivated among a region’s support from its local
communities.
Space, place, and identity are factors that have been attributed to the
growth of the craft beer market. Reid, McLaughlin, and Moore (2014)
attribute the growth of the craft beer industry to two socioeconomic pro-
cesses: resource partitioning (which will be discussed in further detail in
sections to come) and the “neolocalism” movement. Within the neolocal-
ism movement, consumers are demanding goods and services that have a
broader connection with the local community. This consumer movement
has been used to describe the link between geographical locations and
consumer trends. Neolocalism is defined as: “the deliberate seeking out of
regional lore and local attachment by residents (new and old) as a delayed
reaction to the destruction in modern America of traditional bonds to
community and family.”
The rise of neolocalism in modern food culture can be seen in many
different ways such as through the popularity of farmers markets, region-­
14 E.T. WITHERS

specific food trucks, and buy-local/Slow Food social movements.

According to Schnell and Reese (2003), the rise in popularity of craft
breweries is a response to the “smothering homogeneity of popular
national culture,” and the desire for an increasing amount of consumers
to “reestablish connections with local communities, settings, and econo-
mies” (p. 46). Flack (1997) attributes the rise of craft beer popularity to
a “rejection of national, or even regional culture, in favor of something
more local” (p. 116).
Research on craft beer has also contributed to the understanding of
collective identity formation and organizational legacy. Lamertz et al.
(2016) argue that the popularity of the craft brewery culture in Ontario
is a result of the creation of a new collective identity by local brewery
entrepreneurs. The authors hold that local breweries were able to recover
important identity narratives from the industry’s past, which led to this
creation of a new collective identity. It is argued by Lamertz et al. (2016)
that craft breweries in the region revived the ancestral meanings of beer
brewing as a community activity and craft. They did this through the
return of small batch brewing technology, the resurrection of old prod-
uct styles, and the reinvention of the tavern as an important part of the
distribution chain. This research highlights how historical regional nar-
ratives can attribute to the growth of new markets and new collective
identities. In short, place can be used to construct meanings of consumer
practices.
Baginski and Bell (2011) provide a regional application of resource par-
titioning theory (which suggests that, as an industry grows and matures,
multiple segments often emerge) in their analysis of the craft beer industry
of the Southern United States. They suggest that resource partitioning
holds truer in urban locales—which engender creative and attractive attri-
butes—than in rural ones. Additionally, they find that the southern region
of the USA has the lowest rate of craft beer industry growth, positing that
“the special distribution of the craft brewing industry is one complicated
by other issues such as legal, moral and religious ones.” This, accompa-
nied by certain legal obstacles, makes it harder for craft breweries to gain
a foothold in the region. In short, the theory of resource partitioning may
differ according to geographic contexts.
Craft beer research focused on space, place, and identity provides an
informative snapshot into the ways in which regions, histories, and cul-
tures shape the formation of markets and identities. It brings the com-
plexities of geographic location to the center of analysis to show that
 THE IMPACT AND IMPLICATIONS OF CRAFT BEER RESEARCH:... 15

even something as simple as beer can take on a multitude of intricate

social meanings. This line of research directly ties to tourism studies by
highlighting and investigating how people engage with local environ-
ments and communities through consumer products. It stresses the
importance of the use of consumer cultural goods and practices to con-
nect people with the local. However, this body of craft beer research may
not pay sufficient attention to the ways in which capital (both economic
and symbolic) is negotiated through the involvement in local craft beer
cultures. Flack (1997) has suggested, “The beer that a person drinks
has become a sociological marker or symbol of self-definition” (p. 46).
Baginski and Bell (2011, p. 155) characterize craft beer as both “high-
brow” and as a “high order prestige good,” while Murray and O’Neill
(2012, p. 900) refer to the craft beer drinker as both “sophisticated” and
“discerning.” In short, craft beer is—in part—a status symbol. Future
research can further investigate the ways in which engagement with local
and regional products may be ways of status distinction and symbolic
capital acquisition.

Production, Markets, and Consumer Culture

Scholars have developed and applied economic theory to the craft beer
industry to analyze its successful gaining of market share. An example
of this is the application of “resource partitioning” theory to explain the
growth of the craft beer industry. Carroll and Swaminathan (2000) pos-
ited that the growth of product variety occurs in the face of high market
concentration because of resource partitioning between large-scale and
small-scale producers. According to Carroll and Swaminathan (2000), in
the early stages of a market’s development, large-scale producers compete
with and exploit one another for the resources at the center of the mar-
ket. The number of producers shrink as a result of this competition and
the products within this market tend to become homogenized. Because
of this, room is opened up in the periphery of the market for small-scale
specialty producers to offer niche products to customers who desire differ-
ent styles. The authors argue that this explains the proliferation of the craft
beer industry as a market response to the homogenization of beer types by
large-scale producers.
The craft beer movement is oftentimes referred to as a “revolution.”
Rao (2008) looked at the role that social movements within markets have
played in aiding the growth in popularity of craft beer. He pointed out:
16 E.T. WITHERS

“The proliferation of microbreweries violates two tenants of industrial

economics: that rising concentration deters entry and that industries tran-
sit through a growth phase culminating in peak numbers of producers.”
The rise in the number of craft breweries suggests that new entry into
a market is possible for entrepreneurs even when large-scale producers
account for a vast majority of the sales in a market, and that a number of
like businesses entering the same market do not always result in destructive
competition or exploitation. Rao held that this phenomenon is due to the
craft beer industry’s success at framing itself as a social movement against
big beer businesses. The author states: “identity movements, informed
by a ‘we’ feeling, arise to challenge dominant organizations or categories
and seek to realize new collective identities by building new organizations
that emphasize democracy, participation, and empowerment” (Rao, 2008:
p. 43). Rao concluded that beer enthusiasts were able to construct a “hot
cause” (the undesirable taste of mass-produced lager) and relied on “cool
mobilization” (small brewpubs using traditional methods to brew distinc-
tive beers) in order to spur the revolution.
These first two examples of economic outlooks on the craft beer mar-
ket have attributed both macro shifts within markets and social move-
ment mobilization to the growth of the industry. O’Neill, Houtman,
and Aupers (2014) turned their focus to the role of beer advertisers in
fueling the market. In their analysis of 153 beer commercials from eight
countries, the authors found that beer advertisers—such as those associ-
ated with the craft beer brand Sam Adams—create narratives of authen-
ticity by using a combination of discursive cultural elements. “Genuine
craftsmanship,” “connection to a historical location,” and “being crafted
on the basis of natural ingredients” were the narratives used by beer
advertisers to construct a sense of authenticity among beer brands. The
authors concluded by argued that, in a modern day consumer society,
audiences may have a preference for stories of authenticity when choos-
ing to engage with a product, but do not necessarily believe these stories
to be true.
A key question centers on consumers and their place in the growth
of this market. Are they merely passive subjects at the mercy of market
trends, social movement narratives, or advertisers? Or, are they active
agents who use craft beer as an ingredient in the autonomous construc-
tion of their social worlds? Borer (2016, p. 297) states: “drinking such
crafted beverages [referring to craft beer] are acts of resistance as part of
a “visceral politics” (coined from Hayes-Conroy & Hayes-Conroy, 2008)
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