Nhuộm Vải Cotton Bằng Chất Màu Từ Lá Xà Cừ

B GIO DC V O TO
TRNG I HC BCH KHOA H NI

-------------------------------------
V TH LAN HNG
NGHIN CU QUY TRNH CNG NGH NHUM

VI COTTON BNG DUNG DCH CHT MU
TCH CHIT T L X C V NH GI HIU
QU CA CNG NGH NY
LUN VN THC S KHOA HC
H Ni Nm 2010
Lun vn cao hc GVHD: PGS.TS Hong Th Lnh
MC LC
LI CM N ............................................................................................................ 4
LI CAM OAN....................................................................................................... 5
DANH MC BNG BIU ....................................................................................... 6
DANH MC HNH NH, TH, BIU ........................................................ 8
LI NI U .........................................................................................................11
Chng I: TNG QUAN.........................................................................................13
1.1. Tng quan v cht mu t nhin ...................................................................13
1.1.1. Tnh hnh s dng cht mu t nhin trong lnh vc dt may trn th gii ....13
1.1.2. Tnh hnh s dng cht mu t nhin trong lnh vc dt may Vit Nam......15
1.1.3. Gi tr ca cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin .............................22
1.2. Vi cotton ......................................................................................................29
1.2.1. Cc loi vi cotton v ng dng ca chng ....................................................29
1.2.2. Thuc nhum s dng cho vi cotton .............................................................29
1.3. L x c .........................................................................................................31
1.3.1. Gii thiu chung v cy x c..........................................................................31
1.3.2. Thnh phn cc cht c trong l x c ...........................................................32
Chng II: I TNG, PHNG PHP, NI DUNG NGHIN CU...........38
2.1. i tng nghin cu....................................................................................38
2.1.1. L x c............................................................................................................38
2.1.2. Vi cotton .........................................................................................................38
2.1.3. Ha cht s dng .............................................................................................39
2.1.4. Thit b s dng ...............................................................................................40
2.2. Phng php nghin cu...............................................................................41
2.2.1. Phng php ha l.........................................................................................41
2.2.2. Phng php phn tch nh gi.....................................................................44
2.2.3. Phng php thng k thc nghim ................................................................47
2.3. Ni dung nghin cu .....................................................................................47
2.3.1. Kho st s lng cy x c trong phm vi ni thnh thnh ph H Ni ......47
HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 1 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

2.3.2. Phng php tch chit dung dch v phn tch cc cht c trong thnh phn
dung dch....................................................................................................................49
2.3.3. Thit lp quy trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton .............................................50
2.3.4. Nhum mu tng ng bng thuc nhum tng hp ..................................54
2.3.5. Tnh ton v so snh hiu qu kinh t khi nhum bng cht mu t nhin v
nhum bng thuc nhum tng hp...........................................................................56
2.3.6. Ch bin phn hu c vi sinh t b l x c ...................................................65
Chng III: KT QA NGHIN CU V BN LUN .....................................67
3.1. Tr lng l x c thi b v kh nng thay th thuc nhum tng hp .....67
3.2. Phng php tch chit dung dch v phn tch thnh phn cc cht c trong
dung dch tch chit..............................................................................................68
3.2.1. Kt qu tch chit dung dch ..........................................................................68
3.2.2. Kt qu phn tch thnh phn cc cht c trong dung dch tch chit ...........70
3.3. Quy trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng phng php tn trch ...........71
3.3.1. nh hng ca nng n kh nng ln mu .............................................72
3.3.2. nh hng ca mi trng nhum n kh nng ln mu.............................74
3.3.3. nh hng ca nhit nhum n kh nng ln mu..................................76
3.3.4. nh hng ca thi gian nhum n kh nng ln mu ................................78
3.4. Quy trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng phng php ngm p ...........80
3.4.1. nh hng ca mc p n kh nng ln mu................................................80
3.4.2. nh hng ca nng dung dch n kh nng ln mu..............................83
3.4.3. nh hng ca mi trng nhum n kh nng ln mu..............................85
3.4.4. nh hng ca nhit ngm p n kh nng ln mu................................87
3.5. Kt qu nh gi mt s ch tiu bn mu ca mu sau nhum ..................89
3.5.1. bn mu git...............................................................................................89
3.5.2. bn mu nh sng ......................................................................................90
3.6. nh gi hiu qu ca cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng dung dch cht
mu tch chit t l x c.....................................................................................90
3.6.1. nh gi hiu qu v mi trng ....................................................................90
3.6.2. nh gi hiu qu kinh t................................................................................92
KT LUN ..............................................................................................................93

LI CM N
Em xin chn thnh cm n ti PGS.TS Hong Th Lnh, ngi nhit tnh ng

vin khch l, dnh nhiu thi gian trao i gp , gip em trong sut qu trnh thc
hin lun vn.
Em xin gi li cm n ti cc thy c gio trong trong khoa Cng ngh Dt may v
Thi trang gip em trong sut qu trnh hc tp v nghin cu.
Em xin gi li cm n ti cc cn b phng th nghim ca Vin nghin cu Ha l-
Ha dt i hc Innsbruck , Cng ha o nhit tnh gip trong qu trnh thc hin
cc th nghim nghin cu.
Em xin trn trng cm n Vin o to Sau i hc; Phng Th nghim Ha Dt;
Phng Th nghim Phn tch Sc k, i hc Bch Khoa H Ni; Cng ty Dt nhum
Trung Th gip em trong qu trnh thc hin lun vn.
ng thi, em xin gi li cm n n Trng Cao ng Cng nghip - Dt may Thi
trang H Ni to iu kin gip em trong sut qu trnh hc tp v nghin cu.
Trong qu trnh thc hin lun vn em khng ngng hc hi trau di kin thc.
Tuy nhin, trong mt khong thi gian ngn m bn thn cn nhiu hn ch trong qu
trnh nghin cu, em rt mong c s gp ca cc thy c gio v bn b ng nghip.

LI CAM OAN
Tc gi xin cam oan ton b kt qu nghin cu c trnh by trong lun

vn l do tc gi cng ng nghip nghin cu, do tc gi t trnh by, khng
sao chp t cc lun vn khc. Tc gi xin chu trch nhim hon ton v nhng
ni dung, hnh nh cng nh cc kt qu nghin cu trong lun vn.
H Ni, ngy thng nm 2010
Ngi thc hin
V Th Lan Hng

DANH MC BNG BIU

Bng 1.1: Vi cotton c nhum bng mt s loi thc vt Vit Nam
Bng 1.2: Mt s ng dng ca cy x c trong lnh vc y hc
Bng 2.1: Kho st s lng cy x c trong phm vi ni thnh thnh ph H Ni
Bng 2.2: n cng ngh nhum bng thuc nhum hot tnh
Bng 2.3: Bng o chnh lch mu gia hai mu nhum
Bng 2.4: Chi ph cho qu trnh sn xut ngun nguyn liu th (VN)
Bng 2.5 : Tng chi phi ph chit dung dch cht mu t 1kg nguyn liu th (VN)
Bng 2.6: Bng thng k chi ph ha cht, thuc nhum, cht mu v nc
Bng 3.1: Kt qu o mu ca mu vi nhum bng dung dch tch chit trong cc mi
trng khc nhau
Bng 3.2: Thnh phn cc cht c trong dung dch cht mu tch chit t l x c
Bng 3.3: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i ca
nng ti mt s bc sng c trng
Bng 3.4: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i mi
trng nhum ti mt s bc sng c trng
Bng 3.5: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i nhit
nhum ti mt s bc sng c trng
Bng 3.6: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i thi gian
Bng 3.7: Cng ngh nhum ph hp i vi phng php tn trch
Bng 3.8: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi mc p thay i ti mt
s bc sng c trng
Bng 3.9: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i ca nng
ti mt s bc sng c trng

Bng 3.10: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i mi trng

Bng 3.11: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i nhit ngm p
Bng 3.12: Cng ngh nhum ph hp i vi phng php ngm p
Bng 3.13: iu kin cng ngh nhum ca cc mu nhum kim tra bn mu
Bng 3.14: bn mu git ca cc mu nhum
Bng 3.15: bn mu nh sng ca cc mu nhum
Bng 3.16: Mt s ch tiu phn tch phn hu c vi sinh ch bin t b l x c c

DANH MC HNH NH, TH, BIU

Hnh 1.1: Qu mc na
Hnh 1.2: L ch xanh
Hnh 1.3: Qu v ht lng nho
Hnh1.4: C nu
Hnh 1.5: Cy chm
Hnh 1.6: L bng
Hnh1. 7: L xoi xanh
Hnh 1.8: L tru khng
Hnh 1. 9: L x c tui v kh
Hnh 1.10: Qu trnh chit xut v nhum bng cht m t nhin t thc vt
Hnh 1.11: Cy x c ma thay l
Hnh1.12: L x c
Hnh 1.13: Cng thc cu to ca phenol
Hnh 1.14: Cng thc cu to ca saponin
Hnh 1.15: Cng thc cu to ca tanin
Hnh 1.16: Cng thc cu to ca cardiac glycosides
Hnh 1.17: Cng thc cu to ca antraquinon
Hnh 2.1: L x c nghin v ng gi ti phng th nghim
Hnh 2.2: Hnh mu vi th nghim
Hnh 2.3 : My nhum ngm p D394A(bn tri) v my sy D398 SDL(bn phi)
Hnh 2.4: My nhum cc Ti Color I
Hnh 2.5: Khng gian mu CIELab
Hnh 2.6: S cng ngh nhum hot tnh
Hnh 2.7 : S cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng thuc nhum hot tnh v cht
mu t nhin tch chit t l x c

Hnh 2.8: My nghin l

Hnh 3.1: Cy x c ang trong ma thay l (ti sn trng H Bch Khoa)
Hnh 3.2: Biu th hin s nh hng ca mi trng chit n kh nng ln mu
Hnh 3.3: Mng hnh thnh ni ln trong dung dch cht mu t l x c
Hnh 3.4: Mi quan h gia nng v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti mt s
bc sng c trng
Hnh 3.5: th th hin nh hng ca nng n h s hp th ca cc mu
nhum tn trch
Hnh 3.6: Mi quan h gia mi trng nhum v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum
Hnh 3.7: th th hin nh hng ca mi trng nhum n h s hp th ca
cc mu nhum tn trch
Hnh 3.8: Mi quan h gia nhit nhum v h s hp th nh sng ca cc mu
Hnh 3.9: th th hin nh hng ca nhit nhum n h s hp th nh sng
ca cc mu nhum tn trch
Hnh 3.10: Mi quan h gia thi gian nhum v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum
Hnh 3.11: th th hin nh hng ca thi gian nhum n h s hp th nh
sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch ti =400nm
Hnh 3.12: Mi quan h gia mc p v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti mt s
bc sng c trng
Hnh 3.13: th th hin nh hng ca mc p n h s hp th ca cc
mu nhum ti =400nm
Hnh 3.14: Mi quan h gia nng v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti mt
s bc sng c trng
Hnh 3.15: th th hin nh hng ca nng n h s hp th ca cc mu
nhum ti =400nm

Hnh 3.16: Mi quan h gia mi trng nhum v h s hp th ca cc mu

Hnh 3.17: th th hin nh hng ca mi trng nhum n h s hp th ca
cc mu nhum
Hnh 3.18: Mi quan h gia nhit ngm p v h s hp th ca cc mu
Hnh 3.19: th th hin nh hng ca nhit ngm p n h s hp th
ca cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm
Hnh 3.20: Cy t c bn phn hu c vi sinh ch bin t b l x c

LI NI U
Trong nhng nm gn y, cng vi s pht trin chung ca x hi trn tt c cc
lnh vc ngnh dt may Vit Nam cng c nhng bc pht trin ln mnh. S pht trin
ca ngnh c nhng ng gp to ln i vi s pht trin ca nn kinh t quc dn. Trong
nm 2009 ngnh vn ln tr thnh ngnh kinh t c kim ngch xut khu ln nht
ca Vit Nam v t 9,07 t USD. Tng kim ngch xut khu trong 6 thng u nm
2010 ca ngnh Dt may Vit Nam t 4,85 t USD, tng 17,2% so vi cng k nm
ngoi, vn dn u v tng trng kim ngch trong cc nhm hng xut khu. Ngnh Dt
may th gii ni chung v Dt may Vit Nam ni ring ang trn pht trin mnh theo
xu hng pht trin bn vng, to ra cc sn phm thn thin vi mi trng. Mt trong
nhng khu quan trng ca qu trnh to ra sn phm ca ngnh Dt may l cng on
nhum. y l cng on nh hng rt nhiu n tnh sinh thi v tnh bn vng ca sn
phm. Hng nm, ngnh cng nghip dt may th gii s dng xp x 1.3 triu tn thuc
nhum, bt mu pigment, gi tr khong 23 t la, phn ln u l nhng sn phm t
cng nghip du m, mt ngun nng lng c hn v ang b khai thc trit . Nhng
loi thuc nhum tng hp s dng ngy nay chng t s sng to v i mi ca
ngnh ha dt p ng nhng yu cu nh d dng sn xut quy m ln, kh nng lp
li mu cao, p ng yu cu v mu sc v cht lng sn phm ca khch hng[9]. Tuy
nhin thuc nhum tng hp c mt s hn ch ch yu sau: Qu trnh sn xut thuc
nhum tng hp khng thn thin vi mi trng ( sn xut ra thuc nhum cn s
dng nhiu ha cht nguy him nh axt mnh, baz mnh, dung mi, nhit cao v
hm lng kim loi nng cao); Trong qu trnh s dng thuc nhum tng hp c th gy
nhim mi trng v nh hng ti sc khe con ngi; Thuc nhum tng hp ch
yu c sn xut t du m - mt ngun ti nguyn kh ti sinh,. Chnh v vy m
ngy nay nhiu nc trn th gii c xu hng quay tr li s dng cht mu t nhin
nhum vi. nc ta, trc y b con dn tc ti cc vng ni v b con mt s tnh

min Ty Nam B cng s dng mt s loi thc vt nhum vi. Qu trnh sn xut
ca b con c tin hnh bng phng thc th cng nh l, quy trnh phc tp, dn n
nng sut khng cao, cht lng sn phm khng n nh, kh nng ti lp mu kh.
trong nc c mt s cng trnh nghin cu v cht mu t nhin nh:
- Nghin cu s dng cht mu t nhin v cng ngh hon tt sn phm dt nhum
truyn thng Vit Nam[4].
- Nghin cu cng ngh nhum vi bng l ch xanh theo phng php ngm p[6]
Nhn chung, cc cng trnh trn nghin cu cng ngh nhum vi cotton, t tm bng
dung dch tch chit t l ch, bng, lng nho,. Cha c cng trnh no nghin cu
quy trnh cng ngh v nh gi hiu qu ca cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng dung
dch cht mu tch chit t l x c a vo sn xut cng nghip.
ti Nghin cu cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng dung dch cht mu tch
chit t l x c v nh gi hiu qu ca cng ngh ny nhm tm ra cng ngh
nhum ph hp v nh gi hiu qu ca cng ngh ny c th p dng vo sn xut
cng nghip quy m nh.

Chng I: TNG QUAN

1.1. Tng quan v cht mu t nhin
Mu sc l cuc sng, cuc sng ca chng ta rc r bi mun vn mu sc. l
mu ca hoa l, c cy, mu ca cc loi ng vt, mu ca t ,... Mu sc l mt sn
vt k diu m thin nhin ban tng cho chng ta. T xa xa khi nn khoa hc k thut
cha pht trin, con ngi bit s dng cc cht mu t nhin nhum mu cho vi
vc, dng, trang tr, hnh xm trn c th,.... Cc cht mu t nhin ny c ly t
cc ngun chnh nh sau:
Cht mu t nhin c ngun gc thc vt (plants) nh thn, hoa, l cnh, v, c, qu
ca cc loi cy trong t nhin nh cy thin tho, cy chm, c ch, l bng, l ch, l
tre, l x c, c nu, qu mc na, v x c, ...
Cht mu t nhin c ngun gc ng vt (animals): cc loi cn trng, ng vt thn
mm nh con rp son, c gai, cnh kin,....
Cht mu t nhin c ngun gc khong vt c ly t cc loi t, oxit kim loi.
Trn th gii, cht mu t nhin c s dng trong rt nhiu lnh vc nh hi ha,
trang tr ni tht, th cng m ngh, to mu thc phm,... v c bit l s dng
nhum mu cho cc sn phm dt may.
1.1.1. Tnh hnh s dng cht mu t nhin trong lnh vc dt may trn th gii
Vic s dng cht mu t nhin tn ti t lu i Trung Quc, n , Ai Cp
v pht trin nhiu nc khc trn th gii. Theo mt s nghin cu [9] cho thy cht
mu t nhin c s dng sm nht Trung Quc vo nm 2600 trc cng nguyn. T
thi Ai Cp c i khong nm 3200 trc cng nguyn, ngi ta s dng vi nhum
mu t nhin. Mu ca l mng (henna) c ngi Trung Quc s dng nm 2500
trc cng nguyn. Ngi nguyn thy tng dng ht c ph nghin to ra mu bn
cho hnh v trang tr v s dng cht mu t nhin t thc vt to mu da th v da ca
chnh h trong cc l hi. n c coi l trung tm c nht trong ngnh th cng

nghip nhum mu chm ca th gii. T cc loi sinh vt trong t nhin chng ta c th

chit xut c rt nhiu cht mu khc nhau, chng hn nh:
Mu xanh lam, xanh da tri c chit xut t cy chm, cy tng bch,.. ph bin
Ai Cp, n .
Mu , ta ly t cnh kin (lac), xc kh ca con rp son (cochineal), r cy
thin tho (madder), xc kh su Kemet, xc kh ca c gai (murex) s dng ph bin
vng Ailen, chu u,...
Mu vng c chit xut t r cy i hong, c ngh, thng c s dng n
, o
Mu hng nht, nu, en c chit xut t v cy c ch (walnut)
Mu en l hn hp ca hai hay nhiu thuc nhum thnh phn, c bit l khi to
phc vi ion kim loi. ng Nam , ngi ta dng qu mc na nhum c vi mu
en ng, bng p.
Hin nay, cht mu t nhin c s dng rt nhiu nc trn th gii nh Ai
Cp, n , Nht Bn, .... nhng ch s dng quy m th cng, nhum mu cho cc
trang phc truyn thng, th cng m ngh,...
Trong nhng nm gn y, vn nhim mi trng sinh thi ang l vn nng
bng trn ton th gii c bit l vn nhim gy ra bi cht thi nhum t cc nh
my nhum mu tng hp. Chnh v vy m c rt nhiu cng trnh nghin cu, d n
nghin cu v ng dng ca cht mu t nhin nhum thc phm, trang tr ni
tht,..... c bit l nhum cho cc sn phm dt may chng hn nh: D n Value Chain
in Natural Dye do Dr P. Raghava Reddy ng u, d n ko di trong vng 4 nm (bt
u t 01.06.08) vi kinh ph l Rs.345.95lakhs ( tng ng 15 232 593 735.08 VND),
d n Standardization of Application of Natural Dyes on Jute Based Textiles for Eco-
Friendly Jute Decorative and Diversified Products ko di trong vng 3 nm vi kinh
ph l Rs.40.00 lakhs. nc o c d n Trademark color and cloth do ng Christian
Pladerer ng u, nhm d n gm c 3 ngi cng 10 cng ty thuc cc lnh vc lin
quan tham gia. Ngoi ra cn nhiu hi tho, bo co cp n vic s dng cht mu t

nhin thay th cho thuc nhum tng hp. Vit Nam, cht mu t nhin cng c s
dng t rt lu v n nay vn cn ang s dng mt s ni nhum th cm,
trang tr ni tht,
1.1.2. Tnh hnh s dng cht mu t nhin trong lnh vc dt may Vit Nam
Ngh nhum c t lu i nc ta, Thng Long xa c ph Th Nhum l
ph nhum thm ca cc lng Liu X, Liu Xuyn (Hng Yn), Vn Canh (H Ty),
Hng o mi chnh l ni nhum cao cp, nhum c nhiu mu sc, c lch s ghi
nhn t th k XV. Vo cui th k XVII, ngi lng an Loan (mt lng ni ting
Hi Dng) lp c nh Hng o, lp c ch ring ph Hng o. Ph
Hng o tr thnh ph ring ca dn lng an Loan v h giu ln nhanh chng. an
Loan c nhiu ngi bit n nht bi ni y c ngh nhum ni ting, t xa ngh
ny mang li cm no, o m cho dn lng[15].
vng ni pha Bc, ngi dn tc bit s dng cht mu t nhin trong dt
nhum. Ngi dn tc Ty, Nng tnh Lng Sn dng l chm nhum mu xanh
nht, xanh en. Ti Sn La, Ha Bnh, ngi dn tc Thi dng cc loi v cy, hoa
vng, l xanh, cnh kin nhum mu cho cc sn phm ca mnh nh chic khn Piu
v cc sn phm th cng khc. n th k XIX nhum vi bng thuc nhum t nhin
vn c s dng vi nhng kinh nghim lu i ca mi dn tc, h c nhng b quyt
ring sn xut ra nhng sn phm th cng c truyn c trng cho mi dn tc.
Nhng loi cht mu t nhin c bit n rt phong ph v y cc gam mu c
bn. Mt s loi nguyn liu c nhn dn ta s dng nhum vi nh:
a. Qu mc na (tn khoa hc l Diospiros L mollis Grif) thuc h Ebenaceae.

Hnh 1.1: Qu mc na
Mc na l loi cy g cao t 10 n 20m c cnh, l n mc so le, phin l bu
dc di 5,5cm n 13cm, rng 2,5 cm n 7 cm. Cy ra hoa mu vng, qu hnh cu khi
non c mu xanh bng, sau ng sang mu vng, khi gi chuyn sang mu en. Cy Mc
na c trng nhiu Lo, Campuchia, Thi Lan,... Vit Nam c trng nhiu
min Ty Nam B. Ngi ta s dng qu mc na nhum vi la en rt p c
thng hiu l Lnh M A.
b. L ch (tn khoa hc l Camellia sinsensis L Kuntze).
nc ta loi ch c s dng lm tr ung c, trng nhiu ni. Cy thng
c ct ta phn thnh nhiu cnh v nhnh cho nhiu bp, l. L ch hnh tri xoan,
nhn u v gc, phin l dy, mp c hnh rng ca men theo cung. L ch gi c
loi b ngay sau khi thu hoch c s dng nhum vi cho mu nu nht nu cm
mu bng mt s loi mui cho mu vng lc, nu vng, nu xanh n mu en.

Hnh 1.2: L ch xanh

c. Ht Lng nho (tn khoa hc l Bixa orellana L)
Cy Lng Nho (cy iu mu) l cy mc dng bi, cao khong 5-10m. Cy c
hoa mu trng, c loi mu hng, vng, qu nh c gai tua ra, khi chn c mu rc.
Mi qu c khong 30 n 50 ht, ht c mu .
Ht lng nho t lu c bit n l mu nhum cho thc phm. Gn y,
nc ta c mt s nghin cu ng dng ht lng nho nhum mu cho cc sn phm dt
may cho cc gam mu cam t m ti nht rt p.
Hnh 1.3: Qu v ht lng nho

d. C nu (tn khoa hc l Dioscorea Cirhosa Lour) thuc h Dioscoreaceae
C nu c nhn dn ta bit n t lu i, c c mu nu xm, tht c mu nu .
Cy thng mc hoang cc vng rng ni hoc c trng nng thn. L cy thng

c dng thuc da, nhum li. c bit, t xa xa nhn dn ta dng c nu

nhum vi cho mu nu nht n mu nu sm v khi nhng bn en s cho mu en rt
bn. C nu c th nhum cho vi bng, t tm.
Hnh1.4: C nu
e. Cy chm nhum ( tn khoa hc l Indigofera tinctoria L)
Cy c trng thnh bi cao khong trn di 1m, c nhnh thng di, l hnh trng
ngc mc so le kp di 1.5cm n 2cm, rng 0,6cm n 1,5cm, thon hp cung. Cy
c hoa quanh nm mc thnh tng chm k l, cnh hoa hnh bm mu vng, qu
di c cha ht. Cy c trng mt s vng i ni Vit Nam. Cnh l ca cy chm
ti c ngt v ngm vo nc sch sau vi ngy c dung dch cht mu nhum
vi. Nu khng nhum ngay c th ch bin thnh bt chm, ng bnh, phi kh v ct
gi trong bng rm. L chm dng nhum vi cho mu xanh tm bn v p.
1 2
Hnh 1.5: Cy chm

1. Indigofera tinctoria L(chm l nh); 2. Strobilanthes cusia (chm mo)

f. Cy bng (tn khoa hc l Terminalia catappa L)

Bng l cy thn g cao 10m n 25m, cnh mc vng, l n mc so le, phin l
hnh tri xoan ngc di 20 cm n 30 cm.
L bng rng nhiu vo ma ng nhng mc li rt nhanh vo ma xun. Vo ma
l rng c th thu lm l kh, l vng, l xanh nhum mu cho vi nhm to ra nhng
sn phm may mc c gi tr sinh thi cao, mu sc p, bn mu cao. Mt s nghin
cu ng dng mu chit xut t l bng nhum cho vi t tm, bng cho mu c a, vng
nht, vng nu.
Hnh 1.6: L bng

g. Cy xoi (Tn khoa hc Mangifera)
Xoi l cy thn g cao, l n hnh di thun mc so le, c cung, hoa mc thnh
cm ngn hay bn. y l cy n qu vng nhit i c ngun gc ng Nam .
Qu hnh trn, bu dc, hay tri xoan ty theo tng loi. Vit Nam, xoi c trng
nhiu Sn La, Bn Tre, Tin Giang, Vnh Long, ng Nai, Ty Ninh, Bnh Thun,
Xoi c trng ch yu ly qu n, cy cho g, l xoi dng nu nc cha mt s
bnh v nhum vi t nhin cho mu nu nht. V cy nhum vi bng, t tm cho
mu vng ti.

Hnh1. 7: L xoi xanh

h. L tru khng (Tn khoa hc Piper betle L):
Tru khng l mt loi cy gia v hay cy thuc, l ca n c cc tnh cht dc hc.
y l loi cy thng xanh, loi dy leo v sng lu nm, vi cc l hnh tri tim c mt
bng v cc hoa ui sc mu trng, c th cao ti 1 mt. Loi ny c ngun gc vng
ng Nam v c trng n , Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Vit Nam, Malaysia. Vit
Nam c hai loi tru chnh: tru m v tru qu. L tru m to bn, d trng. Tru qu c
v cay, nh l, c a chung hn trong tc n tru. Ngoi vic s dng n th cn
dng nhum vi bng, t tm cho mu nu trm rt bn mu.

Hnh 1.8: L tru khng

i. Cy x c (Tn khoa hc l Khaya Senegalensis)
L cy thn g, c ngun gc t chu Phi. Vit Nam, x c c trng nhiu
ni ly g, trng ven ng ly bng mt. Hng nm, ngi ta thng cht ta cnh
cy m bo an ton trong ma gi bo. Nhng l, v cnh ny c s dng
nhum vi t tm cho mu tm hng rt p.
Hnh 1. 9: L x c tui v kh
Ngoi ra, nc ta cn s dng rt nhiu loi l cy khc nhum mu cho vi
nh l ngi cu, l hng xim, l tre, l thin l, l x c, l gng, l bch n, l ch, v
cy x c... nhum vi si bng, lanh v vi t tm. Nhum vi bng cht mu t
nhin mang li gi tr ln v mt kinh t, x hi, sinh thi mi trng.

1.1.3. Gi tr ca cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin

T xa xa con ngi bit dng cc cht mu t nhin nhum cho cc sn phm
may mc to ra cc sn phm vi nhiu mu sc. Cho n nm 1856 nh khoa hc
William Henry Perkin (1838-1907) khm ph ra thuc nhum tng hp u tin v sau
nhiu loi thuc nhum tng hp khc c tm ra vi nhng tnh nng u vit v kinh t,
kh nng cng ngh p ng sn xut cng nghip hn hn thuc nhum t nhin th
thuc nhum t nhin khng cn ph bin na. Thuc nhum tng hp nhanh chng
chim v tr quan trng trong ton x hi, p ng c nhu cu ca ngi tiu dng.
Ngnh cng nghip sn xut thuc nhum tng hp pht trin nh v bo. Tuy nhin,
trong nhng nm gn y vn v mi trng, sinh thi ton cu c c bit quan
tm. Chng hn nh mi trng b nhim bi vic tng hp thuc nhum, nc thi
nhum, sinh thi sn phm dt may, ... y l vn nng bng, nhc nhi cn phi c
quan tm gii quyt kp thi. Chnh v vy m xu hng quay tr li s dng cc cht
mu t nhin cho ngnh dt may ang c nhiu nc trn th gii quan tm. Nht
Bn, thi trang sinh thi (Eco-fashion) khng ch l mt khi nim c nhiu ngi bit
n m hin nay n cn cung cp mt cng c kinh t hu hiu cho cc hng dt may
Nht Bn. V vy, nhng cng ty dt may Nht Bn tn ti v cnh tranh c trn th
trng nh pht hin ra nhng sn phm mi ny. Cn li hu nh cc hng sn xut
hng dt may gi r ca Nht phi ng ca do khng th cnh tranh vi Trung Quc.
Gii nghin cu cho rng th trng dt may thn thin vi mi trng ang ni ln nh
mt lnh vc mi cc cng ty Nht Bn n u v pht trin. Fujitex, cng ty hin
c uy tn trn th trng cao cp cng thit lp mt danh mc cc sn phm si cashmere
c nhum bng loi thuc nhum chit xut t thc vt nh cy lu, cy keo v cy
inh hng. i din cng ty cho bit h ang n lc trin khai s dng cc loi cht
mu t nhin thay cho thuc nhum tng hp da trn c s xem xt cc vn mi
trng, y l mt vn nng bng hin nay ang c nhiu nc trn th gii quan
tm[14].

Nhiu cuc hi tho trn th gii bn v vic s dng tr li cht mu t nhin chng
hn nh UNESCO t chc hi tho ti Hyderabad t ngy 5 n ngy 12 thng 11 nm
2006 vi s c mt ca 600 nh khoa hc n t 57 quc gia trn th gii tm phng
n quay tr li vi mu t nhin. Hi tho ni v nhum mu t nhin t chc vo ngy
t ngy 8 n 16 thng 3 nm 2008 ti Mayan, Mexico,...
T , chng ta thy cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin mang mt
ngha rt ln v mt kinh t x hi v mi trng sinh thi c th hin thng qua:
a. S dng ngun nguyn liu d ti sinh:
Ngun nguyn liu nhum mu t nhin t thc vt c ly t sn phm trc
tip ca nng nghip hoc tn dng ngun ph thi t cc ngnh nh v cy t ngnh
cng nghip g, b thi t ngnh ch bin thc n [10], t l ch gi b thi b t cc
nng trng ch, l bng, l x c, bch n,.... rng thu gom dc ng ph, cng
vin,.... y l ngun nguyn liu t nhin phong ph, a dng, d ti sinh. a s cc loi
thc vt dng nhum l loi cy d trng mang li hiu qu kinh t cao, c th c
trng che bng mt, ly g, l trn cy hoc l rng xung thng b i nhng nu
cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin t thc vt c thc hin trn quy m sn
xut cng nghip th s tn dng c ngun nguyn liu v gi ny. Hn na, khi cng
ngh ny c chuyn giao cho nng dn thc hin s to cng n vic lm, gp phn xa
i, gim ngho cho ngi nng dn.
b. Quy trnh cng ngh n gin, t s dng ha cht:
Thuc nhum tng hp cho chng ta mu n sc, cn mun to ra mt mu ha sc
nh mu sn c trong t nhin th chng ta phi phi t rt nhiu mu n sc vi nhau.
V vy s rt mt thi gian, cng sc, nguyn vt liu thc hin nhng cng kh to
nn c mu ging mu t nhin. Hn na, thuc nhum tng hp c ngun gc ch
yu t ngun du m - l ngun ti nguyn kh ti sinh, n l hn hp ca ca cc hp
cht hu c trong c mt s cht cha nhm azo gy ung th, d ng da, qu trnh sn
xut thuc nhum tng hp th phi s dng nhiu nhiu ha cht c hi nh axit, kim
mnh, dung mi, mui kim loi nng, nhit cao... Nc thi ca thuc nhum tng hp

khi thi ra mi trng s gy nhim mi trng. Qu trnh nhum bng thuc nhum
tng hp tn nhiu chi ph cho nng lng v sinh ra nhiu kh thi c th gy ra hiu ng
nh knh.
Mu t nhin l s tng ha ca nhiu mu cng li cng vi mt s tp cht sn c
trong ngun nguyn liu dng chit xut cht mu nn c th to nn nhng gam mu
trm t nhin m thuc nhum tng hp khng th c c. Hn na, cng mt dung
dch mu nhng phng php nhum, cm mu khc nhau c th to ra nhiu nhiu mu
sc khc nhau ch khng phc tp, tn km nh vic pha phi to mu mi i vi mu
tng hp.
Quy trnh chit v nhum t ngun nguyn liu thc vt nh sau:
Ngun nguyn liu thc vt

D thu hoch v lu tr d dng
Tch chit bng nc nng (100oC)

Khng s dng ha cht hoc
dung mi hu c
Dung dch cht mu dng nhum B thi ch bin thnh

phn hu c vi sinh
Quy trnh nhum

Nc thi nhum cha
hm lng ha cht rt thp
Sn phm nhum
To ra nhiu nh mu vi
nhng thuc tnh bn mu chp nhn c
Hnh 1.10: Qu trnh chit xut v nhum bng cht m t nhin t thc vt

- Qu trnh nhum bng cht mu t nhin t s dng cc ha cht ph tr nn nc

thi nhum c t cht c hi, d phn hy sinh hc[4].
- a s cht mu t nhin khng c c t nn khng gy c hi trong qa trnh sn
xut, s dng sn phm cng nh khng gy nhim mi trng sng.
c. Tn dng b thi sau khi tch chit cht mu:
B thi sau qu trnh chit xut dung dch mu c th s dng to ra phn hu
c vi sinh bi v c nhng c im nh sau: chng dng mm, d phn hy v c
kch thc ph hp do chit nhit 100oC vi thi gian tng i di v ngun
nguyn liu c nghin nh trc khi chit. Cc thnh phn nh cellulose, khong,
m,.. dng d ha tan hn nhiu do rt thun tin ch bin thnh phn hu c
vi sinh. ch bin phn hu c vi sinh ngi ta c th s dng cc phng php khc
nhau nh sau[14]:
Phng php ym kh: Thc cht ca qu trnh ym kh l s phn gii phc
tp gluxit, lipit, v protein vi s tham gia ca vi sinh vt k kh. y l phng php
t nhin c lch s kh lu i thch hp cho quy m h gia nh, trang tri hoc mt khu
dn c. Nguyn l rc ch ym kh l s dng ch yu cc vi sinh vt c sn trong
t nhin, s dng O2 ti thiu trong qu trnh phn hy.
Qu trnh phn hu bng phng php ym kh c th c m t bng phng trnh sau
y:
Cht hu c + H2O + Cht dinh dng T bo mi + Cht hu c tr +
+ CO2 + CH4 + NH3 + H2S + Nhit [...].
u im ca phng php:
Phng php k kh rt n gin, nng thn nc ta thng phn chung c trn
thm rm r l da theo nguyn l ca phng php ny.
Ngy nay c th p dng vo x l rc thi sinh hot th hoc trang tri vi quy
m nh.
Nhc im ca phng php ny l:
- Xy ra qu trnh phn hu ym kh v pht sinh mi.

- Thi gian lu, tn din tch.

- Kh trin khai m rng cho x l khi lng ln rc thi.
- Sn phm thu c l mn, ngoi ra trong qu trnh cn sinh kh CH4, H2S v cc kh
khc lm nhim mi trng.
- Mn rc thu c c cht lng khng cao.
Cho nn Vit Nam hin nay hu ht s dng phng php hiu kh sn xut
phn vi sinh.
Phng php hiu kh:Thc cht ca phng php rc ch hiu kh l
c oxy. Cc cht hu c trong rc l xenlulo, hemixenlulo, pectin, tinh bt, protein, cht
bo trong qu trnh u b vi sinh vt phn hy. Cc vi sinh vt y c th l cc vi
sinh vt h hp hiu kh hay tu tin. Phng php ny thng p dng nhiu quy m
khc nhau.
Nguyn l ca phng php ny l s dng cc vi sinh vt c sn trong t nhin v
b sung thm mt s ch phm vi sinh vt phn gii xenluloza, protein, lignin,, iu
chnh nhit , m (40 60%),oxy, thong kh, pH, v cc cht dinh dng c li
nht nhm kch thch s pht trin ca h vi sinh vt c trong b phn hy cc cht hu
c to thnh mn.
Qu trnh phn hu hiu kh gm 4 giai on:
- Giai on 1: Giai on Mesophili y l giai on pht trin mnh ca cc vi khun v
nm a m, pht trin tt trong khong nhit 25 450C v chi phi trong sut qu trnh
. Cc t chc vi sinh vt ny s dng oxy vn chuyn cacbon trong nguyn liu to ra
nng lng cho hot ng ca chng, ng thi to ra CO2, nc v nhit.
- Giai on 2: Giai on Thermophilic, cc vi sinh vt a m suy gim, thay vo cc vi
khun a nng hot ng. Chng pht trin tt nht trong khong nhit 50 700C.
Nhit ng tng v duy tr trong mt thi gian tiu dit mm bnh v ht c
di. Giai on ny kt thc khi ngun dinh dng cn kit. Trong mt vi v tr ca ng
, nhit c th ln ti 70 80 0C. Giai on ny chim u th l x khun v nm.

- Giai on 3: l giai on n nh vi s ti tr li ca cc vi sinh vt a m

(Mesophilic), nhit ng gim u, nhit sn sinh ra cn bng vi lng nhit mt i.
- Giai on 4: l giai on chn ca phn. Nhit gim, cc vi sinh vt a m tip tc
hot ng phn gii cc hp cht hu c cho n khi ngun dinh dng cn kit
u im ca phng php ny:
- Kim sot v x l c mi
- Tiu dit vi sinh vt gy bnh tt, gim mi hi v mm bnh
- Thi gian ngn
- C th vn hnh ngoi tri hoc che ph
- To sn phm c cht lng ng u
- Nhit cao git cht mm bnh v ht ging c di
Nhc im ca phng php ny:
- Cn nng lng nhiu
- Vt liu phi c xo trn v c kch thc ph hp (25 100 mm)
- C th nh hng do thi tit thay i (ma, tuyt, hn hn, nhit thp)
- Vn u t cao, yu cu cng ngh cao nh h thng xo trn t ng, h thng
phn phi kh v h thng kim tra
- Cn qun l cht ch
* Gi tr ca phn hu c vi sinh[13,18]:
- Gi tr mi trng: S dng phn hu c sinh hc ch bin t b thi thc vt c
th bn cho la, ng, c ph, h tiu, c nhng ch li v mi trng sau y:
Khng gy nhim mi trng sinh thi, khng nh hng n sc kho con
ngi, cy trng, vt nui.
Ci thin kt cu, xp v ph nhiu ca mi trng t.
Cn bng h vi sinh vt trong mi trng t.
C tc dng phn hu, chuyn ho cc cht hu c khc trong t cung cp
dinh dng cho cy trng.

C tc dng nng cao c h s s dng phn khong bn cho cy trng, dn

n gim thiu lng phn ho hc ra tri xung tng nc ngm hay thng
hoa vo mi trng khng kh gy nhim mi trng
- Gi tr kinh t: sn xut c phn hu c vi sinh ch cn b ra cng lao ng, b
thi v chi ph mua men sinh hc, phn chung (nu gia nh khng c), phn ur, v
ng n th c th sn xut ra hu c vi sinh c cht lng tt nhng gi thnh ch
bng 30% so vi gi phn cng loi bn trn th trng. Do , c th tit kim c
mt lng kinh ph ng k. Mt khc, bn phn hu c vi sinh ny cho cy trng gp
phn n nh nng sut, gim c lng phn khong l hng i y tim nng tit
kim chi ph sn xut.
d. Gi tr sinh thi ca sn phm nhum bng cht mu t nhin
Hin nay hu ht cc nc trn th gii cng nh Vit Nam, yu cu ca ngi tiu
dng v sn phm dt may ngy cng cao, trong ngoi tiu ch bn p, hp thi trang
cn i hi phi m bo tnh v sinh an ton v thn thin vi mi trng. Mt trong
nhng xu hng pht trin ca hng dt may nhm cnh tranh c trn th trng th
gii l s dng cht mu t nhin nhum vi. Cc loi sn phm c nhum t mu
t nhin khng nhng c mu sc p m cn c gi tr sinh thi s dng cao nh khng
gy d ng da, khng cha cc nhm azo c gy ung th, khng c hm lng
formaldehyt trn sn phm nh khi nhum bng thuc nhum tng hp v x l hon tt,
a s bn mu vi nh sng, bn mu git. Ngoi ra mt s loi sn phm nhum bng
cht mu t nhin cn c kh nng chng nhu, tng trng, c kh nng cha bnh..v.v..
Hn na, qu trnh nhum bng cht mu t nhin khng gy nhim mi trng, khng
c hi cho ngi cng nhn trong qu trnh sn xut.
Hu ht cc cht mu t nhin c s dng nhum cho cc sn phm dt may c
ngun gc t nhin nh cotton, len, t tm,.... hoc cc vt liu c bn cht ha hc gn
ging vi vt liu t nhin nh Polyamide, visco,... Trong phm vi nghin cu ca ti,
loi vi c chn l vi cotton 100%.

1.2. Vi cotton
1.2.1. Cc loi vi cotton v ng dng ca chng
Vi cotton l loi vi c dt t x bng. Loi vi ny c nhiu u im vt tri
nh thong mt, mm mi, thoi mi, ht m tt ( iu kin tiu chun m khong
8,5%) trn th gii tr lng vi cotton c s dng may qun o, gia dng
chim t trng ln (s dng may qun o lt, mc ngoi, qun o ma h, qun o tr
em, khn mt, chn ga gi,...). Qun o bng vi cotton c kh nng ht m hi nhanh
chng, tnh v sinh cao. Bng c th chu c nhit cao v c nhum d dng.
nhit si v nhit kh khun cng khng lm cho bng b ph v cu trc. Bng
cng c th c l p nhit tng i cao, chu mi mn tt. Sau y l mt s loi
vi bng thng dng v ng dng ca chng:
- Terrycloth l loi vi bng dt vng c s dng lm khn tm, o chong.
- Denim: l mt loi vi bng th dt cho. Vi denim ny c s dng ti M t cui
th k XVIII may qun b nhum mu chm.
- Chambray l loi vi cotton nh thng s dng cho ren v trang tr
- Vi phin l loi vi dt thoi mng, nh, cht liu cotton, kiu dt vn im, khi lng
t 90 - 100 g/m2 v c u im l ht m, thong kh, nh v mt hn vi poplin, thng
c s dng may o s mi, vi lt.
Ngoi ra cn rt nhiu loi vi cotton khc na.
1.2.2. Thuc nhum s dng cho vi cotton
a. Thuc nhum tng hp[3]:
- Thuc nhum trc tip: l thuc nhum anion, tan trong nc, phn ln l thuc nhum
azo, c kh nng t nhum, t nh hnh m khng cn s chuyn ha trung gian no.
Thuc nhum trc tip lin kt vi vt liu celullose bng lin kt hir v Van c Van,
lc lin kt khng ln nn d b phai mu khi git, loang mu, dy mu.
- Thuc nhum hot tnh: L thuc nhum tan trong nc, c kh nng lin kt cng ha
tr vi vt liu nn bn mu vi git, i khi chng cng b phai mu nh thuc nhum

trc tip nhng khng dy mu nh thuc nhum trc tip do chng lin kt vi vt liu
ngoi lin kt cng ha tr vn c lin kt hir v Van c Van. Thuc nhum hot tnh
cho mu kh ti v y cc gam mu.
- Thuc nhum hon nguyn: C bn mu tt nht trong s cc loi thuc nhum cho
x si cellulose. Thuc nhum hon nguyn c nhiu gam mu v mu c ti nht
nh nhng gi thnh cao.
- Thuc nhum lu hunh: Thng nhum cho cotton cp thp.
Thuc nhum ny cho mu xn, thiu mt s mu, bn mu, bn nh sng khng cao,
gi thnh r.
b. Cht mu t nhin:
Cotton c nhum bng mt s loi cht mu t nhin t thc vt nh sau:
Bng 1.1: Vi cotton c nhum bng mt s loi thc vt Vit Nam
STT Nguyn liu Mu Hnh nh
1 L ch Vng nht
(Camellia sinsensis L
Kuntze )
2 C nu Nu nht
(Dioscorea Cirrhosa Nu sm
Lour) en
3 Cy chm Xanh
(Indigofera L)
4 Ht lng nho Vng da cam
(Bixa orellana L)
5 L bng Vng nu
(Terminalia catappa L )
6 L x c Tm hng
(Khaya senegalensis) Nu

1.3. L x c
1.3.1. Gii thiu chung v cy x c
X c (danh php khoa hc: Khaya senegalensis) l mt trong by loi cy thn g
thuc h Xoan (Meliaceae), c ngun gc ti vng nhit i chu Phi v Madagascar.
y l cy thn g ln, cao ti 30-35 m, ng knh thn cy trn 1 m, thng thng rt
vng chc phn gc. Cc l hnh lng chim, vi 4-6 cp l cht, khng c l cht phn
nh ca l lng chim; mi l cht di 10-15 cm trn bt ng v pha nh nhng thng
thng c mi l nhn. Thng ra hoa vo thng 9-10. Cc hoa mc thnh cm khng
dy, mi hoa n l th nh, vi 4-5 cnh hoa mu vng
Qu l loi qu nang hnh cu khi chn bung thnh 4 hoc 5 mnh ng knh 5-8
cm, cha nhiu ht c cnh.
Hnh 1.11: Cy x c ma thay l

X c (Khaya senegalensis) c th trng trn mi loi t khc nhau, l cy trng
chu c kh hn, c kh nng gi t, gi nc, bo v mi trng, ci thin mi
trng sinh thi xung quanh khu vc trng. Ti Vit Nam, X c c du nhp t Trung
Phi t thi Php, c gy trng rng ri lm cy cnh quan, cy che bng va h,
trong cng vin, trng hc... Hin x c c trng rt nhiu cc th ln ca Vit

Nam nh: H Ni, Hi Phng, Nng, Ban M Thut, TP H Ch Minh,..... G c li

mu nht, dc mu nu , g rn th xon, d nt n. G c s dng ng tu
thuyn, lm mc gia dng .
Cy x c c trng rt ph bin, n c ngi ta bit n nh mt loi "g" ca
vng kh chu Phi, c s dng c nhng phn khng cha g.
Ti Ty Phi, nhng ngi chn th gia sc Fulani xn bt l ca chng trong ma kh
nui gia sc. Ngoi ra, v cy ca cy x c cng c thu hoch t cc cy trng hay
mc t nhin lm thuc iu tr mt s bnh. Ht ca Khaya senegalensis cha ti
52,5% du, bao gm 21% axt palmitic, 10% axt stearic, 65% axt oleic v 4% cc axt
khc khng xc nh[16].
G ln dng lm g dn, ng bn gh ging t, lm mc, m ngh xut
khu c gi tr.
1.3.2. Thnh phn cc cht c trong l x c
L x c: X c trt l vo ma xun, thay l trong vng mt n 3 thng, l mi
rng xung c mu vng, l kh c mu nu.
Hnh1.12: L x c

Mt s nghin cu khoa hc trn th gii cho thy rng trong thnh phn ha hc ca l
x c c cc hp cht nh sau[9]:
_ Saponin (10 - 50mg/kg)
_ Tanin (<100mg/kg)
_ Anthaquinones (>100mg/kg)
_ Phlobatanin (<100mg/kg)
_ Cardiac Glycosides (<50mg/kg)
_ Volatile oils
_ Phenol,...
- Volatile oils: l 1 loi du d bay hi, l hn hp ca hp cht hydrocarbon v cc
hp cht xy ha to nn mi thm.
- Phenol: cn gi l lp phenolic, l mt lp cc hp cht hu c bao gm mt
nhm hirxyl (-OH) gn vi mt nhm hyrocacbon thm. n gin nht trong lp ny
l phenol (C6H5OH).
Hnh 1.13: Cng thc cu to ca phenol

- Saponin: Saponin l mt glicozit t nhin thng gp trong nhiu loi thc vt
nhm gip cho chng t bo v chng li cc loi vi khun, nm. Saponin c v ng, c
tc dng trong y hc. Saponin c tnh cht chung l khi ho tan vo nc c tc dng lm
gim sc cng b mt ca dung dch to nhiu bt. Saponin khi gp la s to bt kh c
kh nng hn ch chy. Cng thc ha hc

Hnh 1.14: Cng thc cu to ca saponin

- Tanin: L hp cht polyphenolic cha nhiu nhm hidroxyl c th to phc mnh
vi protein. Tanin thng tm thy trong cc loi thc vt, c phn b phn khng
bo hoc b mt sp ca thc vt. Tanin c v cht, mu hi vng. C 2 loi l tanin thy
phn (Hydrolyzable tanins) v tanin ngng t (condensed tanins)
Axit gallic flavour

Hydrolyzable tanins Condensed tanins
Hnh 1.15: Cng thc cu to ca tanin
Tanin thy phn c xut pht t axit n gin nh axit gallic hay axit ellagic.
Tanin thy phn lu trong khng kh s chuyn sang mu nu c s dng nh mt
loi thuc nhun thc vt.
Tanin ngng t l mt loi thuc nhum flavonoid c bn c tng hp t flavins
v catechins.

Tanin c trng lng phn t khc nhau, t 500 n trn 3000vC, tanin k vi cc
cht kim, gelatin, kim loi nng, st, nc chanh, mui kim loi, cc tc nhn oxi ha,
sunfat km,...
Tanin c ng dng rt nhiu trong y hc nh cha bng, cm mu, vim d dy,
vim rut, bnh tiu chy,..., chng vi khun, nm, s dng trong ngnh cng nghip
thuc da, bo qun thc phm (ru vang, bia,...).
- Cardiac Glycosides: Gm c 2 loi
Bufadienolides v Cardenolides
Hnh 1.16: Cng thc cu to ca cardiac glycosides

- Antharaquinone: Anthraquinone (9,10-dioxoanthracene) l mt hp cht hu c
thm, thng c sc t vng hoc mu xm nht n mu xm.
Hnh 1.17: Cng thc cu to ca antraquinon

Tn khc ca n l 9,10-anthracenedione, anthradione, 9,10-anthrachinon, Anthracen-

9,10-quinone, 9,10-dihydro-9 ,10-dioxoanthracene, v tn thng mi Hoelite, Morkit,
Corbit,... y l hp cht ha hc tng i bn trong iu kin bnh thng
1.3.3. Mt s nghin cu ng dng ca l x c
Bng 1.2: Mt s ng dng ca cy x c trong lnh vc y hc
STT B phn ca cy iu tr
1 R Bnh tiu chy, bnh vng da, bnh au u
2 V Giun sn, st rt, vng da, l lot, chng my
ay
3 L St rt, au u, st, u ma, vim d dy,
vng da, au lng, thp khp, gh nga,...
4 Hoa Vim d dy
5 Ht Cha st
Cc ng dng khc: V x c dng nhum vi, l xanh lm thc n cho gia sc,
c bit g x c rt qu s dng gia cng m ngh,...
Qua nghin cu tng quan, c th rt ra mt s kt lun nh sau:
- T xa xa con ngi bit s dng cht mu t nhin nhum vi. Nhng sn phm
c nhum mu t nhin mang nhng gi tr to ln v mt sinh thi v c mt ngha
quan trng ph hp vi xu th pht trin bn vng ca x hi, ph hp vi quy lut pht
trin ca t nhin. Chnh v vy m trong nhng nm gn y vic nghin cu s dng
cht mu t nhin trong cc lnh vc c nhiu quc gia trn th gii quan tm.
- Mu t nhin cng rt a dng v phong ph, gn nh y cc gam mu nhng trong
mu trm chim a s.
- Trn th gii cng c rt nhiu nghin cu v cy x c nhng ch yu l trong lnh vc
y hc, c mt s cng trnh nghin cu nhum mu t v x c nhng hu nh cha c
cng trnh no nghin cu nhum mu t l x c cho vi cotton.

- Trong nc c mt s cng trnh nghin cu nhum mu t l x c nhng ch

nghin cu qu trnh tch chit cht mu, nh gi tnh cht ca vi nhum, ng dng vi
nhum mu t l x c may cc sn phm. Cha c cng trnh no nghin cu quy
trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton v nh gi hiu qu ca cng ngh nhum ny a
vo sn xut cng nghip.
Nh vy cho thy rng vic nghin cu cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng cht mu
tch chit t l x c c ngha to ln v mt sinh thi mi trng, v mang tnh khoa
hc, thc tin.

Chng II: I TNG, PHNG PHP, NI DUNG NGHIN CU

2.1. i tng nghin cu
2.1.1. L x c
L x c dng trong nghin cu l l x c c thu gom vo ma l rng nm 2008
(khong t thng 2 n thng 5). L x c c thu gom t nhiu a im khc nhau
trong sn trng i hc Bch Khoa H Ni v c phi kh. Sau , l c nghin
nh (kch thc khong 1cm ) trn u ng nht ha nguyn liu nhm t hiu sut
cao trong qu trnh chit v rt ngn thi gian chit. Nguyn liu thc hin cc th
nghim c m 11%.
Hnh 2.1: L x c nghin v ng gi ti phng th nghim

2.1.2. Vi cotton
Thnh phn: 100% cotton
Xut x: Cng ty Dt nhum Trung Th
Kiu dt: Vn cho
Khi lng: 195g/m2
Vi qua cng on gi h, nu ty trng.

1 2
Hnh 2.2: Hnh mu vi th nghim

1. Mt phi; 2. Mt tri
2.1.3. Ha cht s dng
a. Cht to mi trng:
ti tin hnh nhum cho vi cotton trong cc mi trng khc nhau: axit, baz,
v trung tnh.
to mi trng axt ti dng dung dch CH3COOH to pH dung dch n nh
trong khong 5 6 v git mu nhum bng thuc nhum tng hp n pH = 7. Axit
axetic l cht lng khng c mu, c mi chua hc, nhit si l 1180C. C mt s loi
axit axetic k thut cha 60 80% CH3COOH, ti s dng loi axit axetic 62%.
to mi trng kim, ti s dng dung dch NaOH 1M to pH dung dch
n nh trong khong 8 9.
NaOH dng tinh khit c mu mu trng dng bt hoc dng ht, rt d ht m
trong khng kh v chy nc. Tuy nhin, xt lu s hp ph CO2 ca khng kh to
thnh lp v Na2CO3 cng, khng chy nc. Trn th trng ang bn rng ri cc loi
xt c hm lng NaOH khc nhau. ti tin hnh pha ch dung dch NaOH 1M t xt
vy tinh khit c hm lng ln hn 99%.
b. Cht s dng trong qu trnh nhum:
- Thuc nhum hot tnh, c s dng phi mu sao cho ging vi mu ca vi c
nhum bng dung dch cht mu chit t l x c vi nng nht nh, t so snh
hiu qu gia cng ngh nhum bng cht mu t nhin chit t l x c v thuc nhum

hot tnh. Sau y l tn thng phm ca thuc nhum hot tnh s dng trong ti
(hng Cibaron)
SUNFIX SUPRA YELLOW S3R 150 %
SUNFIX SUPRA RED S3B 150 %
SUNFIX SUPRA BLUE BRF
- Molan 129 l cht tr hot tnh, gip tng u mu
- X phng bt khng cha cht tng trng quang hc
2.1.4. Thit b s dng
- Thit b s dng tch chit cht mu: Ni inox, bp in, a thy tinh
- Nhit k, dng c o pH
- Cn in t VIBRA c s dng nh lng chnh xc khi lng l x c, vi v
ha cht s dng. y l loi cn cho chnh xc cao, sai s 0.001 g.
- Thit b nhum:
* My ngm p SDL vi thng s k thut nh sau:
SR No: 505764-2; Model: D394A; Volt: 220V; Cycle: 50Hz; Power: 0.18KW
Chiu rng trc l 450 mm, ng knh trc 125 mm
Hnh 2.3 : My nhum ngm p D394A(bn tri) v my sy D398 SDL(bn phi)

- My sy SDL vi cc thng s k thut nh sau:
SR No: 505764-2

Model: D398
Volt: 220V; Cycle: 50Hz; Power: 8KW
Kch thc mu ti a 36x42 cm
Khong nhit t 20 250oC
Year 2002, Made in England
* My nhum cc Ti Color I:
Hnh 2.4: My nhum cc Ti Color I

My nhum cc Ti-Color I c sn xut ti Italia. My gm 8 cc nhum, dung tch
mi cc 300 ml, tc quay ti a 45 vng/pht, nhit ti a 150oC. My nhm cc
Ti-Color I cho php ci t cc chng trnh nhum, lu cc chng trnh nhum ny
s dng cho ln nhum sau.
Trong cc th nghim nhum tn trch, ti c nh cc yu t k thut ca my l: thi
gian quay tri l 55 giy, thi gian quay phi 55 giy, thi gian ngh gia hai ln quay l 4
giy v s vng quay l 30 vng/pht. Cc yu t khc c thay i ty theo iu kin
cng ngh.
- My o mu quang ph: Thit b o l my o mu quang ph Multilight Cabinet Model
T-460. My c trang b cc ngun nh sng chun D65, TL84, A v UV.
2.2. Phng php nghin cu
2.2.1. Phng php ha l
a. Phng php tch chit cht mu bng nc

tch chit cht mu t l x c ti s dng phng php tch chit cht mu

bng nc. L x c thu gom c em nghin th ri cho vo ni inox cha nc v
un si, di tc dng ca nhit cc cht mu v cc hp cht khc c trong l c
tch ra. Sau , dung dch c lc sch v s dng nhum vi.
b. Phng php nhum:
ti tin hnh nhum theo 2 phng php nhum l: Nhum ngm p v nhum
tn trch
- Phng php 1: nhum tn trch l phng php nhum m vt liu nm trong
dung dch trong sut qu trnh nhum. Do vy, cht mu c trong dung dch nhum c
a ln vt liu ng thi thc hin lin kt vi vt liu gn mu cho vt liu. Qu
trnh nhum tn trch c thc hin iu kin nng , nhit , pH, thi gian nhum
khc nhau.
- Phng php 2: nhum ngm p l phng php vi c thm t cho chy
qua mng cha dung dch nhum sau cho chy qua cp trc p iu chnh lng
dung dch nhum trn vi trong qu trnh thc hin cng on gn mu. Sau khi ngm p
vi c gn mu bng hong gi, m, hoc chng hp gia nhit.
c. Phng php o mu quang ph:
nh gi kh nng bt mu ln vt liu, ti s dng phng php o mu
quang ph. y l phng php phc tp nhng chnh xc, bao gm o ph v tnh ton
s liu o.
Nguyn l: y l qu trnh thun vt l xc nh phn x theo di bc
sng. phn x c tnh theo t l nh sng phn x t mu o so vi mu trng
chun. Tp hp cc gi tr phn x theo chiu di bc sng c th biu din thnh
ng cong phn x (hoc hp th) trong vng nh sng thy c. Thng qua phn
x nh sng theo di bc sng, ngi ta c th tnh ton c cc ta mu c th
trong khng gian mu. Nh vy, bc th nht l o c, bc th 2 l t gi tr phn
x tnh ra ta mu trong h ta xyY. Qu trnh tnh ton din ra nhanh chng nu
thit b c lp t mt phn mm thch hp v c th cho ra kt qu o trn mn hnh hoc

my in. Tnh ton mu l cng vic tn nhiu thi gian v cng vic ny do mt my tnh
m nhim nhm tm ra gi tr X,Y,Z t tnh ra ta mu x,y,z.
Hnh 2.5: Khng gian mu CIELab

ti s dng thit b o mu l my o mu quang ph Multilight Cabinet Model
T460 ti phng th nghim Ha l Ha dt ca trng i hc Innsbruck, Cng ha o.
My c trang b cc ngun nh sng chun D65, TL84, A v UV v c th xc nh cc
ch tiu mu sc nh L ( sng) c gi tr t 0 (mu en)100 (mu trng); a (sc -
lc); b (sc vng lam) v ng cong phn x th hin phn trm phn x nh sng ca
mu theo di bc sng. T gi tr phn x, tnh h s K/S ca vt liu theo cng
thc:
(**)
2
Trong : R- Gi tr phn x
K- H s hp th ca vt liu
S- H s khuch tn tn x

ti tin hnh nh gi kh nng ln mu ca vt liu thng qua h s K/S

d. Phng php sc k:
Sc k l cc k thut ho hc phn tch v tch cc cht trong mt hn hp mu
da trn nhng tnh cht ha hc, vt l v ha l ca cc cht trong nhng iu kin nht
nh. K thut sc k c 2 loi da theo trng thi ca cht mu khi tin hnh phn tch
sc k. l, k thut phn tch sc k kh v k thut phn tch sc k lng (sc k lng
p sut thng v sc k lng hiu nng cao).
ti s dng k thut phn tch sc k lng hiu nng cao phn tch thnh
phn cc cht c trong dung dch cht mu tch chit c, cc th nghim c thc hin
phng th nghim sc k Vilas 335 trn thit b sc k lng cao p (HPLC).
2.2.2. Phng php phn tch nh gi
a. Phn tch nh gi kh nng ln mu:
T kt qu o h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti tin hnh phn tch nh gi
kh nng nhum mu cho vt liu cotton bng cht mu chit xut t l x c. nh
gi kh nng bt mu ca mu nhum ti tnh h s hp th K/S, v ng cong hp
th v so snh gi tr K/S ti bc sng cc i.
b. Phng php nh gi bn mu:
* Phng php nh gi bn mu git[20]:
nh gi bn mu git ca cc mu nhum ti nh gi theo tiu chun
TCVN 4537-1:2002, thc hin trn thit b my nhum cc Ti Color I ti phng th
nghim Ha dt, trng i hc Bch Khoa H Ni.
- Nguyn l: Mu vi sau khi hon thnh cng on nhum v c git sch theo quy
trnh cho tip xc vi vi th km a x xc nh c khuy c hc di iu kin nhit
v thi gian quy nh trong dung dch x phng v sa, sau c git sch v phi
kh. S thay i mu ca mu v s dy mu ca mu vi th km c nh gi theo
thang thc xm so mu.
- Tin hnh:

Bc 1: t mu vi cn kim tra c kch thc 40mm x100mm (theo chiu dc vi, cch
bin vi 500mm) v mt mnh vi th km a x vi kch thc tng t. p mt phi
ca vi mu th vo trong mnh vi th km a x, khu bng ch trng mt cnh ngn
ca 2 mnh vi li.
Bc 2: Chun b dung dch x phng git nh sau:
+ Na2CO3 khan tinh khit: 2 g/l
+ X phng tiu chun AATCC, khng c cht tng trng quang hc: 5 g/l
Bc 3: Cho mu th vo cc, cp dung dch git theo dung t 1:50, tng nhit n
400C20C, x l mu nhit ny trong thi gian 30 pht.
Bc 4: Ly mu ra gi sch 2 ln bng nc lnh, k tip trong vi nc lnh chy
trong 10 pht v vt mu.
Bc 5: M mu bng cch tho cc ng khu, ch li mt cnh ngn (nu cn
thit) v phi kh mu nhit phng.
Bc 6: nh gi s thay i mu ca mu v s dy mu ca mu vi th km theo
thc xm so mu.
Kt qu c trnh by chng III v ph lc 5
* Phng php nh gi bn mu nh sng[20]:
nh gi bn mu nh sng ca cc mu nhum ti nh gi theo tiu chun
ISO 105-B02:1999, cc th nghim c thc hin ti phng th nghim Ha dt Ha l,
trng i Hc Innsbruck, Cng ha o.
- Nguyn l: Mu th cng vi b 8 mu vi len chun mu xanh c t trong h thng
chiu sng nhn to m phng nh sng ban ngy (n xenon lm lnh bng kh) iu
kin quy nh. bn mu c nh gi bng cch so snh s i mu ca mu th vi
cc mu len chun. B mu chun gm 8 mnh vi len c nhum bng 8 loi thuc
nhum axt mu xanh, nh s t 1 n 8. kim sot cht ch iu kin th nghim th
phi iu chnh m hiu dng, kim tra cng bc x theo cc bc sng nh sng
trong bung t mu, c b iu nhit gi nhit bung t mu n nh trong

khong cho php. Nh vy c th coi tc ng ca nh sng ln mu len chun v mu

th l ng nht.
- Tin hnh:
Bc 1: Chun b mu th c kch thc 4.5 x 1cm, dn cc mu th song song nhau trn
1 tm ba cctng sao cho khong cch t ngun sng n b mt chng bng nhau.
Bc 2: Mu th v mu chun c a vo bung gi mu , c lm mt duy tr
nhit v gi m xc nh.
Bc 3: Ly tm ph th nht ph mt phn nm chiu di cc mu 1 u bin ca mu
th, tm th ny c gi c nh trong sut qu trnh th. Ly tm ph th 2 ph mt
phn nm chiu di cc mu u bin cn li ca mu th. t cc mu di nh sng
ca n Xenon.
Bc 4: nh k nhc tm ph th 2 ln theo di s thay i mu sc ca mu chun.
Khi mu chun s 3 thay i mu sc tng ng cp 4 ca thang chun mu xm th
quan st mu th v quan st s thay i mu sc ca mu chun 1, 2, 3. nh gi s b.
Bc 5: Tip tc chiu sng cho n khi mu chun 4 thay i mu sc tng ng vi
cp 4 ca thang chun mu xm th thay tm ph th 2 bng tm ph th 3 che c
hai phn nm chiu di ca mu th v mu chun.
Bc 6: Tip tc chiu sng cho n khi mu chun 6 thay i mu sc tng ng vi
cp 4 ca thang chun mu xm th thay tm ph th 3 bng tm ph th 4 che c
ba phn nm chiu di ca mu th v mu chun.
Bc 7: Kt thc th nghim khi xy ra 1 trong 2 iu kin sau:
Mu chun 7 thay i mu sc tng ng cp 4 ca thang chun mu xm
Mu th c bn cao nht tng ng cp 3 ca thang chun mu xm.
Bc 8: nh gi kt qu
t mu th v mu chun ch ti trong iu kin kh hu quy nh t nht l 24gi, sau
nh gi kt qu. bn mu nh sng ca mu th c nh gi bng 8 cp tng
ng vi s thay i mu sc ca mu th (cp 1: km bn nht; cp 8: bn nht)

Kt qu c trnh by chng III v ph lc 5

c. Phn tch nh gi gi tr kinh t:
Da trn kh nng sn xut thc t ti cng ty Dt nhum Trung Th ti phn tch
qu trnh chit, nhum tnh ton chi ph nhum 1 tn sn phm bng cht mu t
nhin. T , so snh vi chi ph nhum bng thuc nhum tng hp tng ng
nh gi c gi tr kinh t ca cng ngh nhum ny.
d. nh gi gi tr mi trng sinh thi:
ti tin hnh nh gi gi tr mi trng sinh thi ca cng ngh ny thng qua:
- Tnh ton tr lng l hng nm thi b.
- S dng b thi ch bin thnh phn hu c vi sinh
2.2.3. Phng php thng k thc nghim
nh gi nh hng ca cc yu t n hiu qu ca cng ngh, ti la chn
phng php thng k thc nghim, phng php ny c thc hin bng cch ln lt
thay i cc thng s ca mt yu t v gi nguyn cc yu t cn li. S thay i mt
tnh cht cn nh gi trn sn phm cui cng s c trng cho nh hng ca yu t .
u im ca phng php ny l d thc hin, d dng nh gi nh hng ca cc
yu t ring l. Tuy nhin, phng php ny khng nh gi c nh hng ln nhau
gia cc yu t, khng th nghin cu ti u cc iu kin cng ngh.
ti tin hnh nhum theo phng php trong phn 2.2.1 vi s thay i ca cc
yu t: mc p, nng , mi trng, nhit nhum, thi gian nhum nhm tm ra cng
ngh ph hp.
2.3. Ni dung nghin cu
2.3.1. Kho st s lng cy x c trong phm vi ni thnh thnh ph H Ni
X c l mt loi cy thn g c th trng trn cc loi t khc nhau k c t g
i cao trn 100m. L cy trng chu c kh hn, c kh nng gi t, gi nc,
bo v mi trng v ci thin mi trng sinh thi xung quanh khu vc trng. nc ta
x c c trng hu ht cc tnh t Bc vo Nam nhm mc ch ly g, che bng mt,
gi t, .

ti thng k s lng cy x c v bc u xc nh tr lng l x c c th

thu gom c trn phm vi ni thnh thnh ph H Ni gm cc qun nh sau:
- Qun ng a
- Qun Ba nh
- Qun Hai B Trng
- Qun Hon Kim
- Qun Long Bin
- Qun Cu Giy
- Qun Hong Mai
- Qun Ty H
- Qun Thanh Xun
Kt qu kho st s lng cy x c c trng trn phm vi cc qun H Ni nm
2009 (ph lc 9) nh sau :
Bng 2.1: Kho st s lng cy x c trong phm vi ni thnh thnh ph H Ni
STT Qun S lng
1 ng a 112
2 Ba nh 1587
3 Hai B Trng 828
4 Hon Kim 842
5 Long Bin 84
6 Cu giy 104
7 Hong Mai 25
8 Ty H 102
9 Thanh Xun 452
Tng 4136

Hng nm vo khong t thng 2 n thng 5 l ma x c rng l. Qua qu trnh

kho st thc t cho thy, trung bnh mi cy x c trng thnh mi nm rng khong
30kg l kh.
2.3.2. Phng php tch chit dung dch v phn tch cc cht c trong thnh phn
dung dch
a. Tch chit dung dch:
ti tin hnh tch chit dung dch cht mu theo phng php nu phn 2.2.1
v tch chit trong 3 mi trng: Mi trng axit (pH=56), mi trng trung tnh
(pH=7), mi trng baz (pH=89).
- Tch bng nc (pH = 7): Cho 20g l kh nghin vo trong cc thy tinh cha
200ml nc un si trong thi gian 15 pht. Sau lc sch b, v cho tip 100ml nc vo
un ln 2, lc sch v tin hnh un ln 3 tng t ln 2. Dung dch cht mu thu c l
hn hp dung dch ca 3 ln chit trn. Mt na dung dch thu c dng nhum
trc tip nhm xc nh nh hng ca mi trng tch chit n kh nng nhum mu,
na dung dch cn li th c c em phn tch sc k.
- Tch bng dung dch axit: ly 1ml dung dch axit axtic CH3COOH 62% to mi
trng (pH=56), ti tin hnh tch chit cht mu t 10g l x c nghin theo quy
trnh chit nh trong mi trng trung tnh, sau khi tch chit xong lc sch ly dung
dch nhum.
- Tch bng dung dch baz: ly 1ml NaOH 1M to mi trng pH=89, ti
tin hnh chit cht mu t 10g l x c nghin theo quy trnh nh trn, dung dch sau
tch chit c lc sch ri tin hnh nhum.
Kt qu nh hng ca mi trng chit n kh nng ln mu ca mu nhum
c th hin trong chng III.
Qua thc t th nghim cho thy cc dung dch sau tch chit phi nhum ngay bi v
nu lu trong khng kh s xy ra hin tng oxi ha lm nh hng n kh nng
nhum mu ca cc cht mu c trong dung dch.Trong cc th nghim ca ti, dung
dch sau khi chit c s dng ngay cho qu trnh nhum.

b. Phn tch cc cht c trong thnh phn dung dch tch chit
xc nh thnh phn cc cht c trong dung dch cht mu t nhin chit tch t
l x c ti s dng phng php ha hc v phn tch sc k trn thit b sc k lng
hiu nng cao (HPLC) ti Trung tm gio dc v pht trin sc k, phng th nghim Sc
k Vilas 335, trng i hc Bch Khoa H Ni.
Kt qu th nghim c trnh by chng III v phn ph lc 8.
2.3.3. Thit lp quy trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton
thit lp c quy trnh cng ngh nhum ph hp, ti tin hnh nhum cho
cc mu vi cotton theo 2 phng php nhum trnh by phn 2.2.1
a. Phng php 1: Nhum tn trch c thc hin trn my nhum Ti Color I
Cc yu t nh hng n hiu qu ca cng on nhum bao gm nng dung
dch, nhit nhum, dung t nhum, mi trng nhum, thi gian nhum v khuy
trn, Trong phm vi nghin cu ca ti, yu t khuy trn v dung t nhum c
gi c nh cn thay i yu t nng dung dch cht mu, nhit nhum, mi trng
nhum, thi gian nhum.
Quy trnh thc hin: Cc mu sau khi nhum c git sch bng x phng (khng
cha cht tng trng quang hc) 2g/l , git 60oC trong 15 pht loi b ht cht mu
cn bm dnh trn b mt vi, khng thc hin lin kt vi x si, Mun = 50 v git li
bng nc. Cc mu sau khi git sch c phi kh t nhin. Cc th nghim c thc
hin nh sau:
* Thay i nng cht mu:
xc nh c nng ti thiu v ti a ca cht mu trong qu trnh nhum,
ti tin hnh thay i nng cht mu thng qua thay i khi lng l so vi vi.
- iu kin cng ngh c nh: dung t nhum 1:20, mi
trng trung tnh, nhit 100oC, thi gian 45 pht.
- Chun b 6 mu vi c khi lng 5g

- Chit dung dch cht mu vi t l chit l 1:20 (tc l 1g l chit c 20ml dung
dch cht mu).
- Tin hnh nhum vi s thay i nng dung dch thng qua khi lng l c
s dng so vi khi lng vi ln lt l:10%, 30%, 50%, 70%, 80%, 90%.
* Thay i mi trng nhum:
- iu kin cng ngh c nh: dung t nhum 1:20, s dng 40% khi lng l so
vi vi, nhit 100oC, thi gian 45 pht.
- Chit dung dch cht mu vi t l chit l 1:20
- Tin hnh nhum trong hai mi trng l:
+ Mi trng baz (pH = 8, 9).
+ Mi trng trung tnh (pH = 7).
* Thay i nhit nhum:
- iu kin cng ngh c nh: dung t nhum 1:20, mi trng trung tnh, s dng
40% lng l so vi vi, thi gian 45 pht.
- Tin hnh nhum vi s thay i nhit ln lt l: 60oC, 70oC, 80oC, 90oC,
100oC.
* Thay i thi gian nhum:
- iu kin cng ngh c nh: dung t nhum 1:20, mi trng trung tnh, s dng
40% lng l so vi vi, nhit nhum 1000C
- Tin hnh nhum vi s thay i thi gian nhum ln lt l: 20pht, 30pht,
40pht, 50 pht, 60pht.

xc nh kh nng bt mu ca cht mu ln vt liu, ti tin hnh o mu v tnh

h s hp th nh sng(**) ca cc mu nhum. Kt qu c trnh by trong chng III
v ph lc 2.
b. Phng php 2: Nhum ngm p c thc hin trn my ngm p D394A SDL, my
sy D398 SDL.
- Cc iu kin cng ngh thay i: Mc p, nng cht mu, mi trng, nhit
ngm p.
- Quy trnh thc hin: Cc mu sau mi ln ngm p c sy trung gian bng my sy
398A SDL nhit 80oC trong thi gian 90 giy to iu kin cho cht mu lin kt
vi vi. Cc mu vi sau nhum c git x phng (khng cha cht tng trng quang
hc) 2 g/l nhit 60oC trong vng 15 pht, git lnh v phi kh t nhin.
xc nh kh nng bt mu ca cht mu ln vt liu, ti tin hnh o mu v tnh
h s hp th nh sng(**) ca cc mu nhum. Kt qu c trnh by trong chng III.
* Thay i mc p:
Mc p thay i th lng cht mu a ln vi cng thay i theo. V vy, nhng
th nghim ny nhm mc ch xc nh nh hng ca mc p n qu trnh nhum
bng cht mu t nhin tch chit t l x c nh th no t xc nh c mc p ph
hp cho cng ngh nhum ny.
- iu kin cng ngh c nh : mi trng trung tnh, nhit phng (300C),
ngm p 5 ln.
- Tin hnh nhum vi s thay i mc p ln lt l: 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%,
100%
* Thay i nng cht mu:
- iu kin cng ngh c nh : mi trng trung tnh, nhit phng (300C), mc
p 80%.


- Tin hnh nhum vi s thay i nng dung dch thng qua s thay i khi
lng l so vi vi ln lt l: 10%,30%, 50%,70%, 80%, 90%. Vic thay i
nng cht mu a ln vi ph thuc vo s ln ngm p, s ln ngm p cng
tng th lng cht mu trn vi cng ln, ty theo lng cht mu cn a ln vi
thay i s ln ngm p nhm m bo nng cht mu. ti trnh by
phng php thc hin i vi th nghim s dng 50% lng l so vi vi, cc th
nghim khc thc hin tng t.
Ngm p ln 1 Sy ln 1 Ngm p ln 2
Mu (10g) Mu (18g) Mu (14g) Mu (18g)
+8g +4g
Nh vy, i vi ln ngm p u tin a c 8g dung dch cht mu ln vi, t

ln ngm p th 2 ch a c 4g dung dch cht mu ln vi. Nu s dng 50% lng
l so vi vi th cn phi a 25g (tng ng 25ml) dung dch cht mu ln vi , do
cn phi thc hin ngm p 5 ln.
* Thay i mi trng nhum:
- iu kin cng ngh c nh : nhit phng (300C), mc p 80%, ngm p 5 ln.
- Tin hnh nhum vi s thay i mi trng nh sau:
Mi trng baz (pH = 8, 9),
Mi trng trung tnh (pH = 7).
* Thay i nhit ngm p:
- iu kin cng ngh c nh : mi trng nhum trung tnh, mc p 80%, ngm
p 5 ln.


- Tin hnh nhum vi s thay i nhit ngm p nhau sau: 300C, 600C, 700C,
800C, 900C.
Kt qu c trnh by trong chng III v ph lc 3
2.3.4. Nhum mu tng ng bng thuc nhum tng hp
Vi cotton c th nhum bng cc loi thuc nhum tng hp nh thuc nhum
hot tnh, trc tip, lu ha, hon nguyn, indigo, baz, az khng tan, nhng s dng
nhiu nht l thuc nhum hot tnh.
m bo tnh khch quan trong cc so snh v hiu qu ca cng ngh nhum
bng cht mu t nhin tch chit t l x c v cng ngh nhum bng thuc nhuc
nhum tng hp, ti tin hnh phi mu tng ng bng thuc nhum hot tnh sao
cho ging vi mu nhum bng dung dch cht mu chit t l x c c nng xc nh.
Sau khi xc nh c cc iu kin nhum ph hp bng hai phng php nhum,
ti la chn phng php tn trch so snh vi iu kin nhum nh sau :
- Khi lng l x c so vi khi lng vi l 50 %
- Khi lng vi 5 g
- Nhit nhum 100oC
- Thi gian nhum 60 pht
- Dung t nhum 1 : 20
Mu vi sau nhum git x phng nng 2 g/l 60oC trong 15 pht, git sch
Phi mu bng thuc nhum hot tnh t 3 mu c bn vi n cng ngh nhum
nh sau :

Bng 2.2: n cng ngh nhum bng thuc nhum hot tnh
TT Thnh phn dung dch Nng

1 Thuc nhum:
- Sunfixsupra yellow S3R 150% 0.36%
- Sunfixsupra red SPE 150 % 0.15%
- Sunfixsupra blue BRF 0.06%
2 Cht to mi trng Na2CO3 20g/l
3 Cht in ly Na2SO4 40g/l
4 Cht tr hot tnh Molan 129 1g/l
5 CH3COOH 1 g/l
Tin hnh nhum trn my nhum cc Ti Color I vi s cng ngh sau:
(2) (3)
toC
(3)
100
(4) (1) (3)
5 T(pht)
Hnh 2.6: S cng ngh nhum hot tnh

Cc mu sau nhum c git trung ha bng dung dch axit acetic nng 1 g/l nhit
100oC trong 5 pht, sau git lnh, phi kh.

Cc mu vi nhum bng dung dch cht mu chit t l x c v thuc nhum hot

tnh c o mu xc nh gi tr E. Sau y l bng kt qu so mu ca hai mu
nhum (mu tng hp so vi mu t nhin)
Bng 2.3: Bng o chnh lch mu gia hai mu nhum
L a b E
0.30 0.47 0.51 0.76
2.3.5. Tnh ton v so snh hiu qu kinh t khi nhum bng cht mu t nhin v
nhum bng thuc nhum tng hp
ti tin hnh tnh ton chi ph sn xut nhum 1 tn sn phm bng cht mu t
nhin tch chit t l x c v bng thuc nhum hot tnh thy c gi tr kinh t
cng ngh nhum bng cht mu t nhin. Trong phm vi nghin cu ca ti, ti
tin hnh nghin cu cc yu t nh hng n qu trnh nhum bng 2 phng php (tn
trch v ngm p) nhng kt qu cho thy mu nhum tn trch c nhiu u im hn nh
quy trnh n gin hn, bn mu git v nh sng cao hn. V vy, ti tin hnh so
snh hiu qu ca cng ngh nhum tn trch vi cotton bng cht mu t nhin v bng
thuc nhum hot tnh. Vic tnh ton, so snh hiu qu gia hai cng ngh ny da trn
hai kha cnh. Th nht l so snh v chi ph thuc nhum (lng cht mu), ha cht,
nc s dng; th hai l so snh chi ph v nng lng nh in, than
Tuy nhin, ti thc hin hai quy trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng dung dch
cht mu chit t l x c v thuc nhum hot tnh u nhum cng mt nhit
100oC, cng thi gian nhm 60 pht, nhum trn cng mt my nhum. Do , c th coi
chi ph v nng lng in, hi nc l nh nhau trong c hai quy trnh v ti ch so
snh chi ph v thuc nhum (cht mu), ha cht v nc s dng. Mi quy trnh nhum
c cc cng on khc nhau, mi cng on th ha cht s dng v lng s dng l
khc nhau. Do , cn bit mi quy trnh nhum phi tri qua nhng cng on no. Di
y l s cng ngh ca cng ngh nhum vi bng bng dung dch cht mu t nhin
v cng ngh nhum bng thuc nhum hot tnh.

Sn phm dt (x, si, vi mc)
Tin x l (git, gi h, nu ty)
Ngun nguyn liu thc vt Thuc nhum hot tnh
Phi kh
Ct/nghin
ng nht
ng gi
Tch chit cht mu
Nhum vi Nhum vi
X l gn mu Ch bin X l gn mu
(Sy, hong gi) phn vi sinh (Sy)
Git sau nhum loi b phn cht mu, thuc

nhum khng lin kt vi x, si
Sn phm nhum
Hnh 2.7 : S cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng thuc nhum hot tnh v cht mu t
nhin tch chit t l x c
a. Chi ph cht mu v thuc nhum s dng:
* i vi qu trnh nhum bng cht mu t nhin: Chi ph sn xut cho qu trnh to
ra dung dch cht mu c to nn bi ba nhm chi ph sau: chi ph cho qu trnh sn
xut ngun nguyn liu th, chi ph vn chuyn, v chi ph tch chit dung dch cht mu.

Nhng loi chi ph ny chu nh hng bi nhng kha cnh c th c trnh by di

y:
- Chi ph cho qa trnh sn xut ngun nguyn liu th:
i vi ngun nguyn liu th l l x c rng th chi ph cho qu trnh sn xut ngun
nguyn liu th bao gm nhng chi ph nh sau:
Chi ph thu gom v phi kh l: Qu trnh nhum t nhin bng cht mu chit
xut t l x c rng l tn dng ngun l rng hng nm vo ma x c thay l, do vy
ngun nguyn liu th c mua vi gi thp. chnh l chi ph cho qu trnh thu gom
ngun l rng. Chi ph cho vic phi kh ph thuc vo khi lng nguyn liu c
phi v thi tit. Hn na vic phi kh l cn ph thuc vo vo nhit v thi gian
phi th mi m bo c cht lng ca mu sc trong l. H Ni, ma l x c
rng thng tp trung vo thng 2 n thng 5 hng nm, l sau khi thu gom c tp
trung li v tn dng thi tit c nng phi kh. Vic tn dng ngun nng lng nhit
mt tri tit kim c rt nhiu cho chi ph nhin liu nu thc hin sy.
Chi ph nghin l:
L sau khi phi kh c nghin th n kch thc khong 1cm2 bng my nghin chy
bng nng lng in. My nghin m ti ang s dng l my nghin chy bng in
c cng sut 3.5KW, mi gi my nghin c khong 11kg l kh.
Hnh 2.8: My nghin l

Chi ph cho khu ng nht ha ngun nguyn liu th, kim tra cht lng v
ng gi:
Nguyn nhn lm cho ngun nguyn liu thu gom khng ng nht l:
- Do kh hu
- Th nhng ca t trng
- Ma v thu hoch
- m ca nguyn liu
- Cc loi l khc ln vo khi thu gom
Trong cc nguyn nhn trn th ba nguyn nhn u tin l chng ta c th khc phc
c bng cch thu gom l tp trung vo ma l rng trn u v s dng sut trong nm
. Cn nguyn nhn cui cng l cc tp cht ln vo khi thu gom th c th khc phc
bng cch quy hoch nhng khu vc thu gom l trng ch yu l cy x c, trong ni
thnh H Ni hu nh nhng vng trng x c t xen ln nhng cy khc. Vy th ng
nht ha nguyn liu ch cn khc phc nguyn nhn m nguyn liu. Nguyn liu th
sau khi nghin s trn u v kim tra hm m. Phng php kim tra hm m:
Ly m1(g) nguyn liu cn xc nh hm m, sy 105oC cho n khi lng khng
m1 - m2
i m2(g). Khi hm m ca nguyn liu: w = 100 (%)
m2
Nu m ca nguyn liu khc vi m ca nguyn liu trong nghin cu th phi
iu chnh khi lng l t c mu tng ng trong th nghim. iu chnh
khi lng l ph hp hm m thay i ti thc hin nh sau:
Gi X (%) l t l gia nguyn liu th v vi c hm m w c xc nh khi th
nghim.
Gi X (%) l l gia nguyn liu th v vi c hm m w.
Khi lng nguyn liu cn thit (sau khi sy n khi lng khng i):
Mx = mv
Mx = mv

Ta c Mx = Mx:
X(100-w) = X(100-w)
X= X. (*)
Trong : mv l khi lng vi

Nh vy, iu chnh lng nguyn liu th so vi vi khi hm m ca chng khng
n nh ta tnh theo cng thc (*).
Sau khi xc nh hm m s tin hnh kim tra cht lng mu ca nguyn liu ri tin
hnh ng gi. Nguyn liu c ng khong 20kg trong 1 gi, ng gi 2 lp, lp
trong bng mng PE v lp ngoi bng bao ti.
bng 2.7 th hin tng qut chi ph sn xut ca ngun nguyn liu th t khu thu
gom, phi kh, ct nghin, tiu chun ha, kim tra cht lng sn phm n ng gi.
Bng 2.4: Chi ph cho qu trnh sn xut ngun nguyn liu th (VN)
NL th Thu gom ngun Nghin / Ct ng nht ha ngun
(xut x) l rng, phi kh (VN/KG) nguyn liu th, ng gi Tng
(VN/KG) (VN/KG) (VN/KG)
Ph thi 1 500 1 000 1 500 4 000
- Chi ph cho qa trnh vn chuyn:

Vn chuyn l qu trnh s dng nng lng v qu trnh vn chuyn t chy nhin liu.
Qu trnh ny to ra nhng kh thi nh carbon monoxide, nitrous oxides, gy ra
nhim mi trng v gy ra hiu ng nh knh. Nhng nh hng v mi trng khc ca
h thng vn chuyn na l gy ra tc nghn giao thng v thi ra cc cht c hi trn
ng. Do vy, hng n s pht trin kinh t bn vng i hi khong cch vn
chuyn phi ngn v ngun nguyn liu phi nm trong chu k khp kn, gn cc nh my
nhum. Chnh v vy, ti nghin cu thu gom l x c trong ni thnh Thnh ph H
Ni v qu trnh nhum cng c tin hnh ngay ti nhng vng ln cn ca H Ni
trong phm vi nh hn 100km. n gi vn chuyn ngun nguyn ph liu ph thuc vo

khi lng nguyn ph liu v gi nhin liu. Qua qu trnh thc nghim cho thy vn
chuyn 1 tn nguyn liu n mt khong cch khong 100km th cn s dng khong 3.4
kg nhin liu (khong 4lt). n ga nhin liu ti thi im hin ti l 18.000VN. Do
vy, chi ph vn chuyn 1 kg nguyn liu kh khong 700VN.
- Chi ph cho qa trnh chit dung dch cht mu:
ti thc hin qu trnh chit trong nc un si m bo t nh hng n mi
trng sinh thi bi v nu s dng dung mi hu c chit th c th kh nng chit
c lng cht mu tng hn nhng ng thi c mt vi vn sau: dung mi hu c
lm tng chi ph cho qu trnh sn xut v chi ph x l nc thi, cht thi.
Trong trng hp chit xut bng nc nng, khng nhng t nh hng n mi trng
sinh thi m cn lm cho b l sau khi chit cht mu d phn hy sinh hc trong qu
trnh x l cht thi, c th s dng ch bin thnh phn hu c vi sinh gip iu ha
t hoc s dng lm cht t.
Chnh v vy, chi ph cho qu trnh chit ch bao gm chi ph cho lng nc v chi
ph cho nng lng c s dng chit. Qua thc nghim sn xut ti cng ty Dt
nhum Trung Th, n gi chit 1kg nguyn liu th thnh dung dch cht mu l
2000VN.
Nh vy, chi ph chit c lng cht mu t 1kg nguyn liu th bao gm nhng chi
ph sau:
Bng 2.5 : Tng chi phi ph chit dung dch cht mu t 1kg nguyn liu th (VN)
Ngun Vn
NL th Chit thnh dung dch Tng
nguyn liu chuyn
(xut x) cht mu (VN) (VN)
(VN) (VN)
Ph thi 4 000 700 2000 6 700
* i vi qu trnh nhum bng thuc nhum hot tnh: Chi ph thuc nhum cho qu
trnh nhum tng hp t thuc nhum hot tnh chnh l chi ph mua thuc nhum.

ti s dng loi thuc nhum hot tnh bn trn th trng vi gi khong

200000VN/kg sau y:
- SUNFIX SUPRA YELLOW S3R 150 %
- SUNFIX SUPRA RED S3B 150 %
- SUNFIX SUPRA BLUE BRF
Nh vy lng cht mu v thuc nhum s dng nhum cho 1 tn sn phm
nhum bng cht mu t nhin chit t l x c v thuc nhum hot tnh c tnh nh
sau:
Cng thc tnh lng thuc nhum v l x c s dng :
GH/C = B.X % (Kg)
Trong : GH/C Lng thuc nhum, cht mu cn s dng
B Khi lng vi (kg)
X % - Nng % thuc nhum, khi lng l x c dng chit ra
cht mu so vi vi.
+ Thuc nhum hot tnh :
SUNFIX SUPRA YELLOW S3R 150 % 0.36%
SUNFIX SUPRA RED S3B 150 % 0.15%
SUNFIX SUPRA BLUE BRF 0.06%
Tng lng thuc nhum : 0.57 %
Khi lng thuc nhum hot tnh s dng :
GTNHT = 1000 x 0.57/100 = 5.7 (Kg)
+ Lng l x c s dng l 50 % so vi khi lng vi
Nh vy, khi lng l x c cn s dng l:
Gl x c = 1000 x 50/100 = 500 (Kg)
Chi ph cht mu v thuc nhum c th hin c th trong bng 2.4
b. Chi ph ha cht:
* i vi nhum hot tnh:

Dung t 1 : 20, thi gian nhum 60 pht

S dng 20 g/l Na2CO3 v 40 g/l Na2SO4 , cht tr hot tnh Molan 129 1g/l, axit
acetic 1g/l.
Cng thc tnh lng ha cht s dng :
GH/C = B.Dt.Cg/l.10-3 (kg)
Trong : GH/C Lng ha cht s dng
B Khi lng vi cn sn xut (kg)
Dt Dung t nhum ( 1 : 20)
Cg/l Nng ha cht s dng
T cng thc trn ta tnh c lng ha cht s dng trong cng ngh nhum hot
tnh l :
- GNa2CO3 = 1000.20.20.10-3 = 400(Kg)
- GNa2SO4 = 1000.20.40.10-3 = 800(Kg)
- GCH3COOH = 1000.20.1.10-3 = 20(Kg)
- GCht tr hot tnh (Molan 129 ) = 1000.20.1.10-3 = 2(Kg)
* i vi cng ngh nhum bng cht mu t nhin: Lng ha cht s dng ch yu
trong cng on git sau nhum bng dung dch x phng. Cng on ny s dng
2g/l x phng vi dung t git l 1 : 50. T tnh c lng x phng s dng
git cho mt tn vi l :
Gx phng = 1000.50.2.10-3 = 100 (Kg)
Chi ph ha cht trong hai cng ngh nhum ny c th hin c th trong bng 2.4
c. Chi ph cho lng nc s dng:
Cng thc tnh lng nc cn s dng nhum cho 1 tn vi :
VH2O = B.Dt
Trong : VH2O Lng nc cn s dng
B Khi lng vi (Kg)
Dt Dung t
* Lng nc s dng trong cng ngh nhum hot tnh:

+ Lng nc s dng trong cng on nhum hot tnh vi dung t nhum 1 : 20 l:

V1 = 1000.20 = 20.000 (l) = 20 (m3)
+ Lng nc s dng trong cng on git hot tnh l:
V2 = 1000.50 = 50.000 (l) = 50 (m3)
Tng lng nc s dng trong cng on nhum hot tnh l 70 (m3)
* Lng nc s dng trong cng ngh nhum bng cht mu t nhin:
+ Lng nc s dng trong cng on nhum bng cht mu t nhin chit t l x c
l:
V1 = 1000.20 = 20 000(l) = 20(m3)
+ Lng nc s dng trong cng on git sau nhum bng dung dch cht mu chit t
l x c:
V2 = 1000.50 = 50 000(l) = 50 m3
+ Lng nc s dng chit dung dch cht mu l:
V3 = 500.10 = 5000(l) = 5(m3)
(Dung t chit l 1:10)
Tng lng nc s dng trong cng on nhum bng dung dch cht mu chit t l x
c l:
V = V1 +V2 V3
V =20 +50 - 5 = 65 (m3)
Da trn c s tnh ton nh mc s dng cc loi ha cht, thuc nhum, nguyn
liu l x c nhum 1 tn vi thnh phm v n gi vt t ta tnh c chi ph cho
tng cng on sn xut c th hin bng 2.6
Bng 2.6: Bng thng k chi ph ha cht, thuc nhum, cht mu v nc

TT Tn ha cht, thuc nhum Lng yu n gi Thnh tin

cu (kg) (VN/kg) (VN)
Cng ngh nhum hot tnh
I Cng on nhum:
1 Sunfix supra yellow S3R 150% 3.6 200 000 720 000
2 Sunfix supra red S3B SPE 150% 1.5 200 000 300 000
3 Sunfix supra Blue BRF 0.6 200 000 120 000
5 Na2SO4 400 4 000 1 600 000
6 Na2CO3 200 7 000 1 400 000
7 Molan 129 10 250 000 2 500 000
II Git hot tnh
1 CH3COOH 10 15 500 155 000
III Nc 70 m3 4800 336 000
VN/m3
Tng 7 131 000
Cng ngh nhum bng cht mu
t nhin
IV Cng on nhum
1 Cht mu 500 6 700 3 350 000
V Git sau nhum
1 X phng 100 14 000 1 400 000
VI Nc 65 m3 4 800 312 000
VN/m3
Tng 5 062 000
2.3.6. Ch bin phn hu c vi sinh t b l x c

c im ca b l x c sau khi tch chit cht mu:
B dng mm v d phn hy

Cc thnh phn nh cellulose, khong, m, dng d ha tan

Kch thc ca b l nh hn 1cm2
B l c tch chit trong mi trng trung tnh (pH = 7)
T nhng c im trn cho thy b l x c thi ra t cng on tch chit cht
mu hon ton ph hp vi iu kin cng ngh sn xut phn hu c vi sinh. Do , b
l sau khi tch chit cht mu c chuyn cho nhm nghin cu ti Ngh nh th vi
o (2010 2011) tin hnh ch bin phn hu c vi sinh.
Quy trnh ch bin phn hu c vi sinh t b l x c v tnh ton chi ph ch bin
phn c trnh by c th trong phn ph lc 1.

Chng III: KT QA NGHIN CU V BN LUN

Cc kt qu sau y c o t cc mu nhum m qu trnh nhum c nh
cc thng s v iu kin thit b, trng lng mu th, dung t nhum, t l cc cht ph
tr (x phng, Na2CO3). Cc thng s thay i bao gm: mc p, s ln ngm p, nng
cht mu, mi trng nhum, nhit ngm p, nhit nhum tn trch, thi gian
nhum.
3.1. Tr lng l x c thi b v kh nng thay th thuc nhum tng hp
Theo s liu kho st s lng cy x c trng thnh trn phm vi ni thnh
thnh ph H Ni cho thy ni thnh thnh ph H Ni c 4136 cy x c (ph lc 9)
Trung bnh mi nm 1 cy x c cho khong 30kg l rng, do tr lng l x c rng
c th thu c trn phm vi ton thnh ph H Ni mi nm l gn 125 tn. nhum
c mu t trung bnh n m bng dung dch cht mu chit xut t l x c ta s
dng 40% - 80% khi lng l so vi vi. iu ny c ngha l nu s dng l x c rng
trong thnh ph H Ni mi nm c th nhum c khong 156- 312 tn vi t mu
m n mu trung bnh. T , cho thy nu tn dng ngun l x c rng trong ni
thnh H Ni mi nm c th thay th c khong 15.6 tn 18.72 tn thuc nhum
tng hp t mu m n trung bnh.
L x c rng ri rc trong nm nhng nhiu nht l vo khong t thng 2 n
thng 5. Trong thi gian ny l rng rt nhiu nn vic thu gom c thc hin rt thun
li vi s hp tc ca c quan v sinh mi trng. L x c rng sau khi thu gom c
phi kh v nghin nt khng nhng m bo tnh ng nht nguyn liu m cn thun
tin cho vic ng gi vn chuyn, bo qun, tch chit dung dch mu v x l b thi
c nhanh hn.

Hnh 3.1: Cy x c ang trong ma thay l (ti sn trng H Bch Khoa)

3.2. Phng php tch chit dung dch v phn tch thnh phn cc cht c trong
dung dch tch chit
3.2.1. Kt qu tch chit dung dch
ti nhn thy dung dch tch chit c t cc mi trng khc nhau nh sau:
- Mi trng axt: dung dch cht mu thu c c hin tng vn c, khi nhum vi
kh nng ln mu thp.
- Mi trng baz: dung dch cht mu rt m, khi nhum ln vi th kh nng ln mu
cao hn so vi mi trng axt.
- Mi trng trung tnh: dung dch cht mu nht hn trong mi trng baz nhng m
hn trong mi trng axt nhng khi nhum ln vi kh nng ln mu cao hn hn so vi
dung dch tch chit trong mi trng axt v baz.

Bng 3.1: Kt qu o mu ca mu vi nhum bng dung dch tch chit trong cc mi

trng khc nhau
Thng s o mu
STT Mi trng
L a* b* C*
1 Axt (pH = 5) -22.79 6.53 15.03 16.38
2 Trung tnh (pH = 7) -27.57 9.24 18.21 20.42
3 Baz (pH = 9) -25.98 7.61 16.5 18.17
Hnh 3.2: Biu th hin s nh hng ca mi trng chit n kh nng ln mu

* Nhn xt:
- Dung dch cht mu tch chit trong cc mi trng c mu khc nhau. iu ny chng
t rng kh nng phn ly ca cc phn t cht mu trong cc mi trng chit l khc
nhau. Do , dung dch cht mu tch chit trong cc mi trng khc nhau hp th nh
sng c bc sng khc nhau nn chng c mu khc nhau.
- Kt qu o mu cho thy rng khi tch chit trong mi trng trung tnh kh nng
nhum mu cao hn hn dung dch tch chit trong mi trng axt v baz. iu ny
chng t khi tch chit cht mu trong mi trng axt v baz c phn ng xy ra gia

cc phn t mang mu trong dung dch lm cho kh nng hp ph cht mu ln vi km

hn.
3.2.2. Kt qu phn tch thnh phn cc cht c trong dung dch tch chit
Kt qu phn tch sc k v phn tch ha hc (ph lc) cho thy thnh phn cc
cht c trong dung dch cht mu tch chit t l x c trc khi nhum, mng ni ln
trong dung dch x c khi trong khng kh nh sau:
Bng 3.2: Thnh phn cc cht c trong dung dch cht mu tch chit t l x c
STT i tng Thnh phn Kt qu
Saponin ++
Dung dch chit l x c
1 Tanin +++
trc nhum
Anthraquinone ++
Saponin ++++
Mng hnh thnh ni ln Tanin +++
2
trong dung dch x c Flavonoid ++
alcaloid +++
Ghi ch:
++: Dch chit pha long 2 ln cho kt qu dng tnh r rt, dch chit pha long 3 ln cho kt qu m tnh
+++: Dch chit pha long 3 ln cho kt qu dng tnh r rt, dch chit pha long 4 ln cho kt qu m tnh
++++: Dch chit pha long 4 ln cho kt qu dng tnh r rt, dch chit pha long 5 ln cho kt qu m tnh
Sau y l hnh chp hin vi in t qut (SEM) mng ni ln trong dung dch cht mu.

Hnh 3.3: Mng hnh thnh ni ln trong dung dch cht mu t l x c

Nhn xt:
- Thnh phn dung dch tch chit c hp cht tanin, anthraquinone, saponin. Trong
tanin, anthraquinone l hp cht mang mu cn saponin cht hot ng b mt c tc
dng lm gim sc cng b mt ca vi vi dung dch gip cho dung dch cht mu ngm
vo vi mt cch d dng v su hn.
- Khi dung dch tch chit ngoi khng kh mt thi gian hnh thnh mng cao phn t
ni ln trn dung dch, kt qu phn tch sc k cho thy trong mng c cc cht nh
saponin, tanin, flavonoid, alcaloid. iu ny chng t rng di tc dng ca oxi trong
khng kh th trong dung dch cht mu c mt s hp cht mang mu khc c to
thnh.
3.3. Quy trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng phng php tn trch
T kt qu thu c sau khi o mu cc mu nhum ti nhn thy rng cc mu
vi sau khi nhum c kh nng hp th nh sng trong khong bc sng () t 380nm
n 740nm vi t l khc nhau, do gi tr th hin mu ca chng khc nhau. T
ng cong hp th ca cc mu cho thy c nh hng ca cc yu t cng ngh n
kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum. Khc vi thuc nhum tng hp th trn ng
cong hp th ca cc mu nhum mu t nhin t l x c khng c nh cc i c th
m gi tr gim dn theo chiu tng bc sng. Chnh v vy, nh gi kh nng ln

mu ca mu nhum ti so snh h s hp th K/S ca cc mu nhum ti mt bc

sng trong vng nh sng thy c m ti c h s hp th tng i cao, c th l ti
=400nm.
3.3.1. nh hng ca nng n kh nng ln mu

Bng 3.3: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i ca
nng ti mt s bc sng c trng
Lng l so vi vi (%)
STT (nm)
10 30 50 70 80 90
1 360 1.6404 1.7366 2.1149 2.5909 2.7935 2.8592
2 400 1.2288 1.3836 1.6489 2.0085 2.1526 2.1686
3 440 0.8933 1.0269 1.2813 1.5079 1.5749 1.6433
4 480 0.6233 0.7018 0.9454 1.1374 1.1804 1.2224
5 520 0.464 0.5152 0.7243 0.8688 0.8953 0.9086
6 560 0.3529 0.4063 0.5427 0.5918 0.6323 0.6815
7 600 0.2722 0.3375 0.3898 0.4547 0.4888 0.5338
8 640 0.2271 0.2802 0.3038 0.3162 0.3586 0.4226
9 680 0.2007 0.2219 0.252 0.2581 0.3001 0.3664
10 720 0.1851 0.2051 0.2206 0.2229 0.245 0.3288
11 740 0.1801 0.1995 0.2095 0.2108 0.233 0.3055

bc sng c trng

Sau y l th th hin kh nng hp th nh sng ca mu nhum tn trch vi s thay

i nng cht mu ti bc sng 400nm th hin trn hnh 3.5.
Hnh 3.5: th th hin nh hng ca nng n h s hp th

T th hnh 3.5 cho thy:

- Khi tng khi lng l s dng so vi vi tc l tng nng dung dch th h s hp
th tng chng t mu cng m, khi s dng lng l so vi vi t 10% n 70%
cng mu ca cc mu nhum tng u nhng t 70% n 80% h s hp th
nh sng ca mu nhum tng t, t 80% n 90% hu nh khng tng. Nh vy, i
vi phng php nhum tn trch nng ti thiu l s dng 10% lng l so vi
vi, ti a l 80% lng l so vi vi.

3.3.2. nh hng ca mi trng nhum n kh nng ln mu

Bng 3.4: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i mi
trng nhum ti mt s bc sng c trng
Mi trng (pH)
STT (nm)
7 8 9
1 360 1.7654 0.8472 0.5354
2 400 1.2572 0.577 0.3485
3 440 0.9003 0.3987 0.2371
4 480 0.6553 0.2705 0.1564
5 520 0.5178 0.2063 0.1297
6 560 0.3728 0.1639 0.1059
7 600 0.2624 0.1279 0.0895
8 640 0.1905 0.1041 0.0788
9 680 0.1443 0.0893 0.0718
10 720 0.1149 0.0797 0.0671
11 740 0.1045 0.0765 0.0657
Hnh 3.6: Mi quan h gia mi trng nhum v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti

mt s bc sng c trng

nh gi kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum trong cc mi trng khc nhau

ti so snh da vo h s hp th ca mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm th hin trn
hnh 3.7
Hnh 3.7: th th hin nh hng ca mi trng nhum n h s hp th ca cc

mu nhum tn trch
Mu nhum trong mi trng trung tnh (pH = 7) c h s hp th nh sng cao
hn mu nhum trong mi trng baz. iu ny c gii thch nh sau: trong mi
trng baz cc phn t tin thuc nhum (precursor) kt hp li vi nhau to thnh
nhng phn t thuc nhum ln hn nn lm cho dung dch cht mu m hn nhng
kh hp ph ln vi hn. Ngoi ra, trong mi trng baz nhng hp cht trong dung
dch cht mu t nhin c cha nhiu nhm OH s phn ly v tch in m gy nn s
y tnh in vi vi cellulose (cellulose trong mi trng kim cng tch in m) nn
chng kh ln vi hn. Do vy, nhum trong mi trng baz khng ln mu bng trong
mi trng trung tnh. V vy, nhum vi cotton bng cht mu t nhin t l x c th
nhum trong mi trng trung tnh l ph hp nht.

3.3.3. nh hng ca nhit nhum n kh nng ln mu

Bng 3.5: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i nhit
Nhit (oC)
STT (nm)
60 70 80 90 100
1 360 0.952 0.9986 1.1925 1.4833 2.2793
2 400 0.7475 0.8212 0.9625 1.2056 1.6915
3 440 0.5905 0.6335 0.751 0.9766 1.244
4 480 0.4503 0.5055 0.5751 0.7254 0.9289
5 520 0.331 0.4045 0.4549 0.5233 0.6573
6 560 0.2533 0.3067 0.3538 0.3803 0.4492
7 600 0.1714 0.2262 0.2738 0.2856 0.3043
8 640 0.129 0.1903 0.179 0.1875 0.2167
9 680 0.1049 0.158 0.1365 0.1309 0.1615
10 720 0.0901 0.1151 0.0916 0.0951 0.1266
11 740 0.0854 0.0811 0.0866 0.0897 0.1136
600C
700C
800C
900C
1000C
Hnh 3.8: Mi quan h gia nhit nhum v h s hp th nh sng ca cc mu


nh gi kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum ti so snh h s hp th K/S ca

cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm th hin trn hnh 3.9.
Hnh 3.9: th th hin nh hng ca nhit nhum n h s hp th nh sng

- Khi tng nhit nhum trong cng mt khong thi gian gia cng th h s hp th
nh sng tng, tc l mu cng m bi v trong dung dch cht mu t nhin ngoi cht
mang mu cn c cc tp cht khc to ra nht cho dung dch. Khi tng nhit th
nht ca dung dch gim lm tng kh nng thm thu ca dung dch cht mu ln vt
liu nn kh nng ln mu cao hn. Mt khc, nhit tng lm cho cc phn t thuc
nhum chuyn ng nhanh hn to iu kin cho chng khuch tn vo su trong li x
si lm cho su mu hn. i vi vi cotton nhum bng cht mu t nhin t l x c
th nhum nhit 1000C l ph hp.

3.3.4. nh hng ca thi gian nhum n kh nng ln mu

Bng 3.6: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tn trch vi s thay i thi gian
Thi gian (pht)
STT (nm)
20 30 40 50 60
1 360 1.5029 1.5634 1.6068 1.8189 1.8429
2 400 1.1394 1.1807 1.2348 1.4326 1.466
3 440 0.8586 0.8963 0.9398 1.0629 1.1028
4 480 0.6168 0.6555 0.7057 0.7894 0.8228
5 520 0.4671 0.5057 0.5281 0.5926 0.6229
6 560 0.3407 0.3733 0.3943 0.4345 0.4637
7 600 0.2484 0.2711 0.2614 0.3039 0.3296
8 640 0.1828 0.1992 0.1966 0.2259 0.2437
9 680 0.1402 0.1646 0.1572 0.1575 0.1885
10 720 0.1134 0.1284 0.1324 0.1271 0.1529
11 740 0.1041 0.1295 0.1027 0.1161 0.1399

Hnh 3.10: Mi quan h gia thi gian nhum v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti

mt s bc sng c trng
nh gi kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i thi gian
nhum ti tin hnh so snh h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm
th hin trn hnh 3.11.
Hnh 3.11: th th hin nh hng ca thi gian nhum n h s hp th nh sng

ca cc mu nhum tn trch ti =400nm
- Khi nhum theo phng php nhum tn trch nhit 1000C thi gian nhum
cng di th kh nng hp th nh sng cng cao, mu cng m.
- Trong khong t 20 n 40 pht h s hp th nh sng tng chm hn so vi
khong t 40 n 50 pht, c ngha l t 40 pht tr i th mu ca mu nhum m rt
nhanh. Nhng t 50 n 60 pht h s hp th nh sng li chm dn. iu ny chng t
khng nn ko di thi gian nhum cao hn 60 pht v cht mu tn trch ri m tip
tc tng thi gian nhum th kh nng ln mu khng tng bao nhiu trong khi gy tn
thi gian, nng lng v nh hng n hiu qu nhum. V vy, nhum tn trch nhit
si trong khong thi gian 60 pht l hp l nht.
Nh vy, iu kin cng ngh ph hp i vi phng php nhum tn trch vi cotton
bng cht mu tch chit t l x c l:

Bng 3.7: Cng ngh nhum ph hp i vi phng php tn trch

Yu t cng ngh iu kin x l
Nng 10-80% lng l so vi vi
Nhit 100 C
Thi gian 60 pht
Mi trng Trung tnh (pH=7)
3.4. Quy trnh cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng phng php ngm p
3.4.1. nh hng ca mc p n kh nng ln mu
Bng 3.8: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi mc p thay i ti mt
s bc sng c trng
Mc p (%)
STT (nm)
60 70 80 90 100
1 360 2.28313 2.46133 2.60187 2.80382 2.84544
2 400 1.67944 1.77838 1.97891 2.11681 2.15449
3 440 1.18114 1.25462 1.34604 1.56339 1.58793
4 480 0.79136 0.86155 0.92622 1.11527 1.14797
5 520 0.57215 0.63412 0.67443 0.78168 0.81899
6 560 0.37978 0.40494 0.44449 0.54078 0.55896
7 600 0.2485 0.26226 0.26875 0.34668 0.36948
8 640 0.17406 0.1826 0.18699 0.24421 0.26308
9 680 0.12955 0.1362 0.13884 0.18759 0.20691
10 720 0.10314 0.10812 0.10987 0.15415 0.17336
11 740 0.09382 0.09819 0.09996 0.11248 0.14161

Hnh 3.12: Mi quan h gia mc p v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti mt s

bc sng c trng
nh gi kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i mc p ti
so snh h s K/S ca cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm c th hin hnh 3.13.
Hnh 3.13: th th hin nh hng ca mc p n h s hp th ca cc mu

nhum ti =400nm


- Khi mc p tng th h s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tng chng
t kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum tng bi v khi mc p cng cao th lng
dung dch cht mu cn li trn vi cng nhiu sau mi ln p to iu kin cho
cht mu lin kt vi vi c nhiu hn. Do vy cc mu nhum mc p cao c
mu m hn.
- Kh nng bt mu ca cht mu ln vi cotton tng nhanh khi mc p tng
trong khong t 60% n 90%, cn t 90% tr i cng mu tng rt chm bi
v t mc p 90% tr ln lng cht mu a ln vi nhiu nhng ch lin kt vi
vi c mt phn no cn phn cht mu khng lin kt vi vi nm trn b
mt vi cn tr phn cht mu a ln vi nhng ln ngm p sau, ng thi tp
cht c trong dung dch cng nm li trn vi nhiu nn kh nng to lin kt gia
cht mu v vi b cn tr. Nh vy, mc p 90% l ph hp nht, cn mc p
trn 90% th kh nng bt mu ca cht mu ln vt liu cng c tng khng ng
k trong khi lng cht mu a ln vi li tn nhiu hn gy lng ph cht mu
nh hng n hiu qu kinh t.

3.4.2. nh hng ca nng dung dch n kh nng ln mu

Bng 3.9: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i ca nng
Lng l so vi vi (%)
STT (nm)
10 30 50 70 80 90
1 360 1.54039 1.63657 2.014895 2.4009 2.5346 2.5592
2 400 1.12876 1.28356 1.54885 1.8885 1.9626 1.9786
3 440 0.79331 0.92689 1.21133 1.40785 1.4749 1.5033
4 480 0.52328 0.60178 0.90454 1.03736 1.0804 1.1124
5 520 0.36401 0.41521 0.66426 0.75884 0.7953 0.8086
6 560 0.25286 0.27934 0.44271 0.49178 0.5323 0.5515
7 600 0.1722 0.19751 0.28979 0.31547 0.3788 0.4238
8 640 0.12714 0.1502 0.20383 0.2162 0.2586 0.2826
9 680 0.10067 0.12191 0.15197 0.15808 0.2001 0.2264
10 720 0.08514 0.10505 0.12059 0.12291 0.145 0.1788
11 740 0.08011 0.09946 0.10949 0.11079 0.133 0.1385


bc sng c trng
nh gi kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i nng ti
so snh h s K/S ca cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm c th hin hnh 3.15
Hnh 3.15: th th hin nh hng ca nng n h s hp th

ca cc mu nhum ti =400nm
Khi tng khi lng l s dng so vi vi tc l tng nng dung dch th h s
hp th tng chng t mu cng m, khi s dng lng l so vi vi t 10% n 70% h
s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum tng u nhng t 70% n 80% h s hp th
nh sng ca mu nhum tng t, t 80% n 90% hu nh khng tng. Nh vy, c th
thy i vi phng php nhum ngm p vi cotton th nng ti a l s dng 80%,
ti thiu l s dng 10%.

3.4.3. nh hng ca mi trng nhum n kh nng ln mu

Bng 3.10: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i mi trng
Mi trng (pH)
STT (nm)
7 8 9
1 360 3.7568 3.0128 2.5873
2 400 2.8231 2.1146 1.9258
3 440 2.0431 1.4571 1.3906
4 480 1.3936 0.9575 0.9436
5 520 1.0006 0.7099 0.6951
6 560 0.6452 0.4652 0.4553
7 600 0.4049 0.298 0.3029
8 640 0.2708 0.2028 0.2106
9 680 0.1923 0.146 0.154
10 720 0.1451 0.1125 0.1191
11 740 0.1279 0.1002 0.1064
Hnh 3.16: Mi quan h gia mi trng nhum v h s hp th ca cc mu nhum ti

mt s bc sng c trng

nh gi kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i mi trng

nhum ti so snh h s K/S ca cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm c th hin
hnh 3.17
Hnh 3.17: th th hin nh hng ca mi trng nhum n h s hp th

ca cc mu nhum
- Khi pH tng th h s K/S gim, iu ny c gii thch nh sau: trong mi trng
baz cc phn t tin thuc nhum (precursor) kt hp li vi nhau to thnh nhng phn
t thuc nhum ln hn nn lm cho dung dch cht mu m hn nhng kh hp ph ln
vi. Ngoi ra, trong mi trng baz nhng hp cht trong dung dch cht mu t nhin
c cha nhiu nhm OH s phn ly v tch in m gy nn s y tnh in vi vi
cellulose (cellulose trong mi trng kim cng tch in m) nn chng kh ln vi hn
so vi nhum trong mi trng trung tnh. V vy, nhum vi cotton bng cht mu t
nhin t l x c th nn nhum trong mi trng trung tnh.

3.4.4. nh hng ca nhit ngm p n kh nng ln mu

Bng 3.11: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i nhit ngm p
Nhit (oC)
STT (nm)
90 80 70 60 30
1 360 3.5046 3.3817 3.01186 2.682 2.27713
2 400 2.6832 2.5411 2.28494 2.11 1.69365
3 440 1.9149 1.7687 1.58371 1.484 1.21569
4 480 1.4035 1.2657 1.14476 1.045 0.80315
5 520 0.9931 0.9136 0.77121 0.666 0.57363
6 560 0.6668 0.5979 0.48848 0.429 0.38446
7 600 0.4092 0.3637 0.30567 0.281 0.2515
8 640 0.2688 0.2398 0.20484 0.196 0.17695
9 680 0.1903 0.1703 0.1506 0.146 0.13262
10 720 0.1434 0.1299 0.11766 0.114 0.10617
11 740 0.1264 0.1155 0.10572 0.103 0.09692
900C
800C
700C
600C
300C
Hnh 3.18: Mi quan h gia nhit ngm p v h s hp th ca cc mu


nh gi kh nng ln mu ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i nhit

ngm p ti so snh h s K/S ca cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm c
th hin hnh 3.19
Hnh 3.19: th th hin nh hng ca nhit ngm p n h s hp th

ca cc mu nhum ti bc sng 400nm
Khi tng nhit ngm p th h s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum
cng tng chng t kh nng ln mu cng cao. Bi v, khi nhit tng lm cho
nht ca dung dch cht mu gim to iu kin phn t thuc nhum i su
vo li x si d dng hn. Tuy nhin, nhit cao th nc bay hi nhanh hn
lm cho nng dung dch nhum tng ln lm sai lch mu v kh u mu hn
do nu ngm p nhit cao th ch nn ngm p 80oC. Hn na, nu tng
nhit ngm p t 90oC tr ln ca dung dch sau khi chit trong khng kh
xy ra hin tng ngng t mt lp mng trn b mt ca dung dch ngm p gy
nh hng n qu trnh ngm p v kh nng lin kt gia cht mu v vt liu.
Do , nhit cao hn 800 C th kh nng ln mu km i, vy nhit ngm

p 800C l ph hp cho cng ngh ngm p vi cotton bng dung dch cht mu
chit xut t l x c.
Nh vy, iu kin cng ngh ph hp cho nhum ngm p vi cotton bng
cht mu tch chit t l x c l:
Bng 3.12: Cng ngh nhum ph hp i vi phng php ngm p
Yu t cng ngh iu kin x l
Mc p 90 %
Nng ngm p 10-80 % lng l so vi vi
Nhit ngm p 80oC
Mi trng Trung tnh (pH=7)
3.5. Kt qu nh gi mt s ch tiu bn mu ca mu sau nhum

Do vt liu c la chn trong phm vi ti l vi cotton 100% , phm vi s dng
ca loi vi ny l may trang phc thng ngy s dng trong tt c cc ma trong nm.
V vy, bn mu c la chn l bn mu git, v bn mu nh sng.
Cc mu c la chn nh gi bn mu l cc mu nhum iu kin cng
ngh ph hp nht i vi 2 phng php nhum trn, c th:
Bng 3.13: iu kin cng ngh nhum ca cc mu nhum kim tra bn mu
Mu
Mu nhum ngm p Mu nhum tn trch
iu kin cng ngh
Nng 50% lng l so vi vi 40% lng l so vi vi
Nhit 800C 1000C
Thi gian 60 pht
Mi trng pH = 7 pH = 7
Mc p 90%
3.5.1. bn mu git
Qua cc th nghim kim tra bn mu git ta c kt qu sau:

Bng 3.14: bn mu git ca cc mu nhum
Ch tiu bn mu git dy mu
Mu
Mu nhum tn trch 5 5
Mu nhum ngm p 4-5 4-5
Vi cotton c nhum bng dung dch cht mu tch chit t l x c c bn

mu git cao mc d trong qu trnh nhum khng s dng thm bt k mt ha cht no.
iu chng t rng lin kt gia cht mu v vt liu l kh cht ch.
3.5.2. bn mu nh sng
Qua cc th nghim kim tra bn mu nh sng ta c kt qu sau:
Bng 3.15: bn mu nh sng ca cc mu nhum
Ch tiu bn mu nh sng
Mu
Mu nhum tn trch 4
Mu nhum ngm p 3-4
3.6. nh gi hiu qu ca cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng dung dch cht mu
tch chit t l x c
3.6.1. nh gi hiu qu v mi trng
Cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin tch chit t l x c em li gi tr
rt ln v mt mi trng thng qua vic tn dng ngun ph thi l x c rng hng
nm. Vic thu gom l rng nhum khng nhng gii quyt c c vn vic lm,
tng thu nhp cho ngi lao ng m cn gii quyt c vn chn lp hoc t l sau
mi ma l rng. Nu khng tn dng ngun l thi b ny th vic chn lp l rng dn
n tn cng sc, tin ca v nh hng n h sinh thi t do kh nng phn hy t
nhin ca l x c kh chm dn n mt rt nhiu thi gian.

ti tn dng ngun ph thi ny nhum mu cho vi cotton em li hiu qu kh

ln v mt mi trng thng qua vic tn dng ngun l thi b tch chit cht mu
nhum vi v ch bin ch bin b thi sau khi tch chit cht mu thnh phn hu c vi
sinh (y l mt trong nhng ni dung nghin cu ca ti nghin cu khoa hc Ngh
nh th vi o nm 2010 2011- B Khoa hc Cng ngh). Qua qu trnh nghin cu
thc nghim, nhm thc hin ti ch bin c phn hu c vi sinh theo quy trnh
c trnh by trong phn ph lc 1. B l x c sau khi 30 ngy phn hy thnh
phn hu c vi sinh. Sn phm phn hu c vi sinh thu c m bo cc ch tiu dinh
dng bn cho cy trng, cc ch tiu c th hin trong bng 3.16
Bng 3.16: Mt s ch tiu phn tch phn hu c vi sinh ch bin t b l x c
STT Ch tiu phn tch Kt qu
1 pH 7.06
2 T l mn (%) 55.14
3 m tng s Nts (%) 3.584
4 Ln tng s P2O5ts (%) 0.363
5 Kali tng s K2Ots (%) 0.92
Phn sau khi c kim tra pH, m v thnh phn dinh dng c em bn cho
cy t, hoa nhi, khoai lang, bp ci, V theo di trong 7 ngy u tin cho thy cc
cy khng c hin tng cht sm, khng b su bnh, pht trin bnh thng.Theo di
nhng cy c bn phn n khi trng thnh cho thy nhng cy ny pht trin nhanh
hn nhng cy khng bn phn, ra hoa kt qu trc nhng cy khng c bn phn.
Hnh 3.20: Cy t c bn phn hu c vi sinh ch bin t b l x c

Ngoi ra, nc thi sau nhum ca cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin tch
chit t l x c hu nh khng nh hng n mi trng sinh thi.
Nh vy, vic tn dng ngun l x c rng hng nm nhum vi em li gi tr rt ln
v mt mi trng sinh thi.
3.6.2. nh gi hiu qu kinh t
T kt qu tnh ton chi ph phn 2.3.5 v phn ph lc 1 ti nhn thy nu ch
tnh ring chi ph sn xut ca qu trnh nhum cho 1 tn vi cotton th chi ph cho cng
ngh nhum bng cht mu t nhin chit t l x c r hn so vi nhum bng thuc
nhum hot tnh. iu ny th hin vic sn xut vi nhum bng cht mu t nhin
khng nhng t c nhng gi tr v mi trng sinh thi m chi ph sn xut cn thp
hn so vi thuc nhum tng hp. T nhng kt qu trn, hon ton c c s khng
nh rng cht mu t nhin c gi tr kinh t cao nh vic gim chi ph sn xut dn n
c th h gi thnh sn phm m vn t c nhng gi tr vt tri so vi thuc nhum
tng hp v s thn thin vi mi trng v cc thuc tnh bn mu. Ngoi ra, sau khi
tch chit thnh dung dch cht mu s dng cho qu trnh nhum th b thi l x c cn
c s dng ch bin phn hu c vi sinh nng cao hiu qu kinh t ca cng ngh
nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin. Hn na, khi nhum bng cht mu t nhin th chi
ph x l nc thi nhum chc chn s thp hn khi nhum bng thuc nhum tng
hp bi v trong qu trnh nhum bng cht mu t nhin hu nh khng s dng ha
cht cn nhum bng thuc nhum tng hp thng thng th nc thi c mu cao,
tn d hm lng kim loi nng do thuc nhum khng gn mu ht cn tn ti trong
dung dch nhum, cht cm mu (i vi nhng mu m), cht in ly (Na2SO4),

KT LUN
Nghin cu cng ngh nhum vi cotton bng dung dich cht mu tch chit t l x
c v nh gi hiu qu ca cng ngh nhum l vn rt cn thit trc khi ng dng
cng ngh mi ny vo sn xut cng nghip quy m nh. Qua qu trnh nghin cu v
ng dng thc t sn xut quy m cng nghip ti Cng ty Dt nhum Trung Th ti
rt ra mt s kt lun sau:
1. iu kin tch chit dung dch cht mu t l x c: mi trng chit trung tnh
(pH=7), nhit chit 1000C, thi gian 15 pht, qu trnh chit c lp li 3 ln
tch ht cht mu c trong l.
2. ti thit lp c quy trnh nhum ph hp bng hai phng php nhum:
Phng php ngm p:
- S dng lng l so vi vi t 10% n 80% ty theo mu m nht.
- Nhit ngm p : 800C
- Mc p : 90%
- Mi trng trung tnh
i vi phng php nhum tn trch:
- Lng l s dng t 10% n 80%,
- Nhit nhum : 1000C
- Thi gian nhum : 60 pht
- Mi trng trung tnh
3. Cc ch tiu bn mu vi git v bn mu nh sng ca mu nhum kh tt:
Mu nhum theo phng php tn trch c bn mu git t cp 4-5, bn
mu nh sng t cp 4.
Mu nhum ngm p c ch tiu bn mu thp hn so si mu nhum ngm
p, c th bn mu git t cp 4, cn bn mu nh sng t cp 3-4.

4. Chi ph nhum vi cotton bng dung dch cht mu tch chit t l x c thp hn so
vi nhum hot tnh t c mu tng ng. C th, chi ph nhum 1 tn vi
cotton bng cht mu t nhin tch chit t l x c l 5 062 000VN (khng bao gm
chi ph khu hao, nng lng, nhn cng) cn chi ph nhum bng thuc nhum
tng hp l 7 131 000VN (khng bao gm chi ph khu hao, nng lng, nhn cng).
Hn na, nhum t nhin cn tn dng b thi ch bin thnh phn hu c vi sinh
cng em li li ch kinh t.
5. Cng ngh nhum vi bng dung dch cht mu tch chit t l x c bc u em li
hiu qu v mt mi trng: tn dng ngun ph thi l x c rng hng nm
nhum vi v ch bin b thi sau khi tch chit cht mu thnh phn hu c vi sinh.
Tm li, cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin khng nhng em li
nhng gi tr kinh t m c ngha v mt sinh thi mi trng, hng n nn kinh t
khng rc thi.

HNG PHT TRIN CA TI
Trn c s kt qu nghin cu ti c mt s xut cho hng nghin cu tip

theo nh sau:
- Nghin cu bn cht lin kt gia cht mu vi vt liu
- Nghin cu mt s tnh cht sinh thi, tin nghi ca vi nhum mu t nhin bng dung
dch cht mu tch chit t l x c
- Nghin cu ng dng cht mu t nhin t cc loi thc vt khc nhum vi nhm
t c gi tr kinh t v mi trng sinh thi.

TI LIU THAM KHO

1. Cao Hu Trng, Hong Th Lnh (2002) Ha hc thuc nhum. Nh XB KH& KT
(ti bn c b sung); H Ni, trang 47-56-287
2. ng Trn Phng (2004) Sinh thi v mi trng trong dt nhum. Nh XB KH& KT,
trang 2-9-17
3. Hong Th Lnh, ng Trn Phng, Nguyn Vn Thng(2004) K thut nhum - In
hoa v hon tt VL dt. Nh XB KH& KT, trang 180-187-193-202-204.
4. Hong Th Lnh (4/2002) Mt s c tnh c bn ca cht mu t nhin. Tp ch Dt
May, trang 36.
5. Hong Th Lnh (05/2001) Nghin cu s dng cht mu t nhin v cng ngh hon
tt sn phm Dt Nhum truyn thng Vit Nam. Bo co ti cp B B98-28-05.
6. Hong Th Lnh, V Mnh Hi (11/2008 ) Nghin cu kh nng nhum vi ca cht
mu t nhin t ht iu nhum.Tp san Hi tho NC v pht trin cc sn phm t
nhin. H ni, trang 35-36.
7. Hong Th Lnh, Nguyn Th Thu Lan (66/2008) Nghin cu cng ngh nhum vi
bng l ch xanh theo phng php ngm p. Tp ch khoa hc v cng ngh cc trng
i hc KT, trang 97-99.
8. Hong Th Lnh, V Mnh Hi (11/2005) Study on using natural dyes for cotton and
silk dyeing. Regional Symposium on Chemical Engineering Proceeding.
9. Department of Integrated Science, Federal College of Education, Yola, Nigeria
(2/2006) Protection of rats by extracts of some commonNigerian trees against
acetaminophen-induced hepatotoxicity
10. Dr. Sukalyan Sengupta (2003) Natural Green Dyes for the Textile Industry.
Technical Report No. 57, trang 2
11. M.Subramanian Senthilkannan (2009) Natural dyes: Are they really
environmentally friendly, trang 1

12. Thomas Bechtold and RitaMussak (2009) Handbook of natural colourants, Austria,
p.p 66-71.
13. Thomas Bechtold, Amalid Mahmud-Ali (2008) Efficient processing of raw material
defines the ecological position of natural dyes in textile production
14. Trung tm khuyn nng k lk (05/2008) K thut ch bin v c ph thnh phn
hu c vi sinh.Bun Ma Thut.
15. DH08DL- Nhm II.1 trng HNL Tp H Ch Minh (09/2009) ng dng vi sinh vt
trong sn xut phn bn vi sinh. Trang40-50
16. http://www.naturaldye.com
17. http://www.wikipedia.com
18. http://vneconomy.vn/home
19. http://www.hieugiang.com.vn
20. TCVN 4537-1:2002, ISO 105-B02:1999

Nhuộm Vải Cotton Bằng Chất Màu Từ Lá Xà Cừ

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Nhuộm Vải Cotton Bằng Chất Màu Từ Lá Xà Cừ

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B GIO DC V O TO

TRNG I HC BCH KHOA H NI

NGHIN CU QUY TRNH CNG NGH NHUM

LUN VN THC S KHOA HC

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 1 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 2 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Em xin chn thnh cm n ti PGS.TS Hong Th Lnh, ngi nhit tnh ng

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 4 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Tc gi xin cam oan ton b kt qu nghin cu c trnh by trong lun

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 5 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

DANH MC BNG BIU

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 6 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Bng 3.10: H s hp th nh sng ca cc mu nhum vi s thay i mi trng

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 7 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

DANH MC HNH NH, TH, BIU

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 8 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Hnh 2.8: My nghin l

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 9 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Hnh 3.16: Mi quan h gia mi trng nhum v h s hp th ca cc mu

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 10 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 11 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 12 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Chng I: TNG QUAN

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 13 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

nghip nhum mu chm ca th gii. T cc loi sinh vt trong t nhin chng ta c th

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 14 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 15 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 16 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Hnh 1.2: L ch xanh

Hnh 1.3: Qu v ht lng nho

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 17 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

c dng thuc da, nhum li. c bit, t xa xa nhn dn ta dng c nu

Hnh 1.5: Cy chm

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 18 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

f. Cy bng (tn khoa hc l Terminalia catappa L)

Hnh 1.6: L bng

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 19 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Hnh1. 7: L xoi xanh

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 20 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Hnh 1.8: L tru khng

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 21 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

1.1.3. Gi tr ca cng ngh nhum vi bng cht mu t nhin

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 22 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 23 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Ngun nguyn liu thc vt

Tch chit bng nc nng (100oC)

Dung dch cht mu dng nhum B thi ch bin thnh

Quy trnh nhum

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 24 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

- Qu trnh nhum bng cht mu t nhin t s dng cc ha cht ph tr nn nc

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 25 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

- Thi gian lu, tn din tch.

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 26 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

- Giai on 3: l giai on n nh vi s ti tr li ca cc vi sinh vt a m

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 27 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

C tc dng nng cao c h s s dng phn khong bn cho cy trng, dn

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 28 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 29 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 30 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Hnh 1.11: Cy x c ma thay l

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 31 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Nam nh: H Ni, Hi Phng, Nng, Ban M Thut, TP H Ch Minh,..... G c li

HVTH:VTh Lan Hng 32 Ngnh Cng ngh Vt liu Dt may

Hnh 1.13: Cng thc cu to ca phenol